Machining a Model Steam Engine - Part 5 - The Crosshead
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- This video shows the setup, machining and logic behind completing the crosshead component for the model steam engine. Some good setup approaches and sequence logic. Take a look.
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Thanks for the metric conversions !
It took some extra effort, but you are welcome.
This was exactly what i was going to say ahahah
@@joepie221 thanks a lot for the extra effort!
I love metric conversion too...thanks
Its been a real education to see how a professional would go about the processes of machining this part. Brilliant explanation - as usual. Thank you Joe
It’s always satisfying to have another component finished and put it in the done box. I lost count how many parts I had to make on my project but I got there in the end. Nice job joe.
Another awesome lesson, especially sharing the dents and features, traps for young (and old) players. Thank you Joe
instaBlaster...
Professional. No wasted motion!
thanks. I try to think several steps ahead.
I'll ditto that. ,,,, No more Joe, Pi.....We can start calling him "Joe the Pro" 'cause he sure is in my book.
Thank you for the metric! I am imperially challenged and it really helps give an idea of how large (small) the parts are.
I placed more notes than I realized. glad it helps.
Beautiful
It’s a work of art!
Kieth Appleton says every piece of a model, is a model in itself.
Thanks. A lot of truth in that statement.
Joe,
Once again, you havre amazed me with your setups not only visually but also the indepth explanation. It really makes sense once you explain it.
Thanks for your presentation.
Not to put the other video guys down but it sure is great to see somebody who is not a cork sniffer get in there and get the job done like they meant it without playing games. .
You da' man, Joe. Keep kicking butts and taking names my brother.
Hey Matthew, gotta ask, what's a cork sniffer?
No cork sniffing on my channel , what you see is what you get !
@@igorbarbarossa I had to look up cork sniffer too. Here is the meaning. www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=cork%20sniffer
@@shadowdog500 thank you. Lol. I'm gonna add this one too my daily conversations
A perfect example of a cork sniffer would be someone that has a day job in an entirely different field and then pretends to be an expert on a subject they just learned yesterday when speaking to a career professional. Hypothetically of course.
thanks for the video Joe- use of jigs was interesting and the deformity from the copper was alarming. Glad to see PM research left a comment on hardness as well
Joe, I've been making models for nearly 40yrs, all self taught, boy I just wish that I'd had the internet and your experience to call on before. I've sure been making parts some dumb ways before, thanks for all your instructional videos especially the latest ones on machining these odd castings. May my precision now be as good as yours.
This series is a master class! Thank you Joe Pie
Glad you enjoy it!
Thank you. Glad I turned in on your channel again. I bought a lathe mill drill couple years ago to learn to make madels. Thanks again
Its a real art form to work with castings, even if they are refined plaster or investment castings. In the Aerospace business we spent big bucks just making fixtures that would establish the starting datums to machine from. Thinking through the entire machining process and proper fixturing can save you lots of headaches and scrap parts.....well done Joe.
thanks.
Soo many great lessons in this series 👍I am absolutely amazed. Thank you Joe
Stay tuned. Some good stuff coming.
Yet again, a brilliant instructional video.
Thank you once again Joe
Thanks for watching. This is a fun build.
OK Joe, after watching that other video, I understand why you are making your own series of videos on this model steam engine.
As an ME/AE, I would much rather deal with a machinist who tells me why they did some things a certain way instead of just interpreting a drawing and complaining how dumb the engineering is. People need to realize, that even though a Mechanical Engineer is taught from very early on to always consider the viability and therefore the possibility of creating a certain part, with what tools they have available, that sometimes we depend on the machinist to think above and beyond their accrued skills, to inform us if adjustments should or are needed for the successful manufacture of certain parts. This is why communication is key when dealing with complex parts. I Love your videos. After 25yrs of engineering I still learn so much from them.
Henri (and Joe) Having started as an industrial model maker, (almost 60 years ago) and toolmaker, who also worked as a process engineer and design engineer, The bench and machine experience mad my career(s) much easier and satisfying. Probable why I enjoy watching Joe. A master!
Thanks Joe. Highly anticipated by me. The cross head and slide surfaces are the hard-to-do yet 'make or break, so I must get it right' for an engine. I am looking forward to the remaining engine videos.
I'm looking forward to the frame machining. Really looking forward to it.
Nice touch with the blast blending the file area back to rough casting look.
Really appreciated the square collet instruction and other minor but important little details. Most of my experience has been lathe and family large horizontals so the intricate work is indeed intriguing,.
Thanks oe
Nice Job Mr. Pieczynski.... no one will know about those micro blemishes unless you point them out! Us model builders strive for perfection, but it's real hard. "Murphys Lore" often prevails! Model Engineering is an art form, preserving a scale appearance whilst achieving mechanical functionality. Really appreciate all the fixture tips. (p.s. I also noticed there was too many commercials)
Thanks Joe - was amazed at the deformation from the copper wire!
Me too. I thought I was safe using the copper.
Thanks Joe! Showing how to work with the castings to establishing reference surfaces, and then using them is very instructive. Also, there is something beautiful about sand cast parts :-)
I agree. I'll try to leave as much raw finish as I can.
Per PM Researc, "Thank you for your interest in our products. The bronze we use to cast our parts is NS#C93700 Heavy Lead, Tin Ingot." From Internet sources, this is essentially bearing bronze. The yield strength of C93700 ranges from 93 to 172 MPa. Typical copper electrical wire is 180 MPa so you need something softer than copper wire to prevent deforming it - lead solder maybe? Great video.
"bronze we use to cast our parts is NS#C93700 Heavy Lead, Tin Ingot" AKA, "gun metal". No surprise, at all, in a lead alloy being soft. Something like 50/50 SnPb soldering wire (no flux core) seems correct for the pinching material.
I watch a few channels that do precision machining in metric and just realized the humor of you putting the metric dimensions to the nearest micron (0.001mm). There's nothing wrong with it at all; it's just realizing 1 micron is ~1/25th of a thou.
I'm somehow reminded of my dad (a surveyor) complaining about civil engineers dimensioning a soccer field to the nearest thousandth of a foot or some such.
People take soccer so seriously that the pitch has to be precise. I can see riots if it came out that the bounds were off by 2mm and a turnover happened because of that.
I pretend it's me doing all the good work, and then I'm proud of what I've done. Thanks !
Great job!
@@joepie221 thanks! I haven’t been pretending to have done this for very long, so your comment is high praise. 😉
Still making it look so easy, great explanation of how and why....
Hey Joe, another great video thanks for sharing. I was surprised to see the casting being deformed from the copper and the aluminum as well. When I was a young guy learning become a tool maker and then eventually a tool and die maker one old-timer back in the day showed me a trick then and that was use a thick piece of leather belt to clamp up against to keep the pieces from being damaged as well as to keep them from moving in the vice. I see that you take pride in your work as well as myself, keep up the good work and can't wait to see more of your videos.
Thanks. It must have been pretty tough copper.
Joe, I would really enjoy seeing how you tackle the frame. I wouldn't worry too much about doing something that's "already been done" - I think people are really looking for *your* take on it.
Yes please
I may have to move it to the top of the list. I'm looking forward to presenting it as well.
I agree
It's very illuminating to see you do these small parts. And the attention to detail. Thanks for posting this.
One of the things I remember hearing is to treat every part as if it is it's own model. It helps me keep perspective. Hopefully the precision out stacks the errors! If I do it by eye, I'm not really interested in precision. It'll look like a steam engine, but it won't run like one. If I'm putting in the effort, I want it to run like a precision machine, too. Otherwise, just hang a picture of one, it's quicker.
Thanks Joe for your time, knowledge and efforts.
Great work. Soon my DIY mill will be ready, so I will order this kit, to try it out. 🤩
@Joe Pieczynski - Thank you so much for the legends with metric numbers converted from the originals. I hope that could help many more people besides me. Very kind of You.
Something that can also help when you don't have conversions on screen is remembering that 1 inch is 25mm, near enough. So 1/4 inch is 25/4 = 6.25mm, and so on.
A couple of other handy conversions is "1 quart" is 1 liter, pretty much, and "1 pound" is about 1/2 Kg.
@@lwilton - Hi friend. Thanks for the tips. You know, the thing what makes me more confused is when I hear something like "two fifty", then I automatically think It's "two inch and 50 hundreds of an inch" and start mental conversion, but It most frequently means 250 thousands of an inch. I'm slowly getting used to "Thou" as It seems to be the "metric inch". Isn't It? heheeh.
@@lwilton- Friend, could You help me with one more thing? Does classical fraction of inch ends at 64 (in denominator)? May I write 63,5/64"? Should I use 127/128"? Or, does that belong to "thou" domain? Thanks again.
You split as necessary. Your fraction would then convert to 127/128's that may raise some eyebrows, but if it has to be fractional, that would be the correct representation.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe. I learn something everyday. Today I learned more about Imperial System, from who knows the thing. I'm already almost an imperialist. Oops, nah, scrap that last one... Hehe
Nice Video I was blown away when you showed how aluminum and copper wire damaged the part!!!
You and me both!
That tip with zeroing the callipers was very helpful, no doubt I’ll be using that
Joe, you're an artist! Beautiful work!
Thank you very much!
Outstanding as always Professor ,Thank you
thank you Sir.
A thought: Usually, great care is taken to have the print match the actual part and capture unexpected deviations. Once the part is finished, the revised drawing smooths the path to subsequent builds. You might show your viewers how to red line a drawing. This may be the only time many of your viewers get insight into the management of command media. BTW I use Popsicle sticks to avoid indenting soft materials. Cheers.
Job well done. I have learned a new way of doing this part. I am enriched.
I like your presentation. Explaining why or how you approach each machining operation is very helpful. Thanks.
If nothing else, it gives you something to think about.
Oooh, you're doing a bit of a Clickspring at the end shots. Love your work 😃
I'm really enjoying this series. You make all of your actions make sense and certainly impart practical wisdom. I'm a little smarter after watching video..thank you.
As usual, I learned a few things from another of your videos Joe.
For the record, I hit LIKE before I watch any of your videos just because it’s a given!
Cheers from the snowy Eastern Arctic of Canada.
Your machine work is well over my head but I still always learn something, thanks Joe
Thanks for the video Joe.
Hi Joe, just discovered your channel. I am not a machinist and have zero experience with operating machine tools, which is just as well since I suck at math. I do find it fascinating, whittling parts out of metal. Thanks for sharing.
Me too.
I really love and enjoy the problem solving of machining complex fiddly parts.
So do I. Its the fun part.
Very good Joe - thanks. Hope you are enjoying this glorious weather we are having...
Painting and repairing my shed. Perfect weather for it.
This is just as entertaining as This Old Tony! Completely different sense of humor, too. It's nice to have a break from the nincompoopery found on TOT. I'm kidding of course.
I love TOT's nincompoopery! I wish I could cut steel like he does.
@@johnyoungquist6540 Or aVe?
Thank you Joe for showing those "apprentice marks" from the copper wire!! Everyone needs to see that even proffesionals make mistakes sometimes and don't always get it right first time.
I got it right. the material failed.
Great response joe
Another video with great content, AND machining techniques. Great CAMERA WORK ....BTW. Thanks for spending this time with us, and sharing....!
Another educational voyage. The approach was extremely useful. It makes a whole lot of sense to think these things through before carving into it. Thanks for the lesson.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Joe,
A good video… I like that you were considering the cosmetic aspect of the project… Also, it was great to see you using hand tools (the files), It reminded me of my apprenticeship where I spent the first 8 months of 4 years filing, needless to say that was many moons ago.
Take care
Paul,,
Has to be a long time ago, ny brother,,,the kids today can't even grind a round nose tool, let alone be able to draw file something flat. Back then even in collage it was part of your machine shop training. --- and I never regretted learning it.
@@mathewmolk2089 1976 to 1980
The cross head is the most forgiving parts in the dimension of thickness. the important dimension is from the center line of the piston rod to the bottom slide surface. I have two ten hp. engines and the top dimension is made right with shims. there is no shame in the end result of your cross head perfect in every way. the 46 minutes was like a blink loved it.
The part is dimensionally spot on. if those ears are undersize, it will still work, but the secondary mechanical forces will lift it under acceleration. The width should just slide nicely and everything should work. I'll hit the numbers and expect a smooth quiet working model.
@@joepie221 The crossheads on full-sized engines are made to be adjustable so that wear can be taken up and keep the center on the centerline of the cylinder bore. On models that is almost impossible to do. I expect this engine will run sweet.
The casting material is most likely gunmetal not bronze and is quite soft but is a good bearing material for this application.
Copper work hardens so could easily be harder than the gunmetal.
Malcolm Wright probably sintering bronze?
"for you men, and women..." - great. Another masterpiece. Thank you for your time and effort.
I'm not kidding when I say Hand Filing Technique is away underrated. Hand Filing is the most "zen dependent" operation. It's very easy to mess It all up and perfection depend on controlled complex movements. At 5:05 You'll can see some of that "efficient ballet". I'm still impressed.
The big thing I learned from this edition of the Joe Pie Show: whistling is apparently is the machinist’s description of “reciprocating motion converted to rotating motion”... fascinating. 😉
Thanks Joe for the awesome videos.
Thanks Joe
Great video, excellent information
A common misconception hobbyists have with these old kits is thinking they are designed with specific skill levels in mind, like modern hobby kits are. With these old steam engine kits, the design is the design, and you got what you got and dealt with it. If you didn't have the skill to swing it, you'd scrap it and have to resort to shenanigans to hopefully salvage it into a working state. That's simply how it is with these old kits. This particular kit is not of amazing design quality, and has a lot of poorly thought out dimensioning practices probably because the blueprints were made to fit the prototype, rather than the prototypes being refined to fit a well designed blueprint. Because of that, this is a pretty advanced kit, even though it might seem simple at first, especially to a hobbyist who doesn't know what to look for. For a machinist, a lot of these castings are simply a slog to work with, because we could make something from solid stock with less workholding effort.
Additionally, I see a lot of people pointing out having a "big expensive shop full of expensive tools." That doesn't make it any more or less possible to build this kit, it just makes it faster. If you really wanted to, you could make this kit with nothing but hand tools and a drill press. It would take forever, but it could be done.
Nice build as usual Joe!
Considering how soft that warm butter turned out to be, I think I might have considered squeezing it in the vise to move much of the displaced metal back to where it came from before using the file. Not that it really matters much.
Great discussion/demonstration
Honestly thought you would do the pin bore first, but I see how you did it and great work!!!
When you set the cutter height using the feeler gauge - what kind of slip fit are you looking for? A slight drag, or a decent binding? I realize it's a feel thing. Thanks for the content!
Light drag.
Fantastic video! I really like that you show the entire process,"warts and all"! I'll use a trite comment of Simply Amazing!
The brass grade is "Gunmetal" or "Red Brass"...butter soft. Works like Babbitt Metal. The Part Nests are a wonderful fixturing tool, Thank you!
Those nests are just about mandatory in my opinion. thanks for the info on the metal. I was surprised at the deformation.
"just hit the numbers and you'll be fine" I'll take that to heart.
I live by that. I bet this model assembles perfectly and works like a charm.
Looking good. Enjoying the series.
Those castings can be a bit of a nightmare to start establishing the principal dimensions so every edge will clean up. Its been years since I have made such a model but I did used to spend some time marking out the casting and hole centres to work out my positions of the first features to be machined. The problem is if you had moved the pin hole back you would have had to clean up the outside radius to centre the hole on the boss but then lose the casting look, although I thought your shot blast finish looked really good. Its a personal thing but sometimes I think the casting finish can be a little too rough for scale models and also casting relief angles can be too prominent. Excellent videos by the way, a really good balance between progress and machining footage.
This model is teaching me quickly. There are basics to consider up front for a successful end result.
Aloha Joe I have made several of this company's models and casting offset is one of the major problems, and your are right many times your dimensions are not possible to obtain, but there is always a preferred surface that needs to meet print dimensions. I wish your had done this a few years ago, before I started making these models, try their shaper or milling machine kit!!!
If they are smart, they'll send me one for free. Great advertising.
@@joepie221 I agree...
@@joepie221 I agree. I bought this PMR model and will build it while re-watching your videos. I bet a lot of others are doing this also.
You're an artist, Joe
Another splendid video :-)
Thank you for including metric measurements. I can now understand the dimensions you are working to.
However, it saddens me that this steam engine is highly unlikely to ever be run on live steam. Perhaps some kind soul will send Joe a PM Research BLR-2 boiler kit - what a fascinating project that would be!
Another great video Joe. Love the way you discuss your approach and plan the sequence of operations. Knowing what you know now, what material would you have used to hold the part since copper and aluminum are harder than the bronze? The leather mentioned earlier seemed like a good idea.
I think my material choices were good, but the amount of surface contact amplified the pressure. Thats why the aluminum nests worked so well. More surface contact.
@@joepie221 Regular copper wire is hard-drawn. It can be softened and made more ductile by annealing.
Really like your content, Joe.
There's always something to learn, other ways of doing things.
BUT, and it is a Big BUT, there was 13 add breaks in your video.
I think there would have been more if i had not jumped as soon as was possible!
I think i've watched every video you've done, just about.
But if this is youtubes direction, 'im not going to be there, sorry.
Carl from Oz.
I went with UA-cam premium a long time ago because of all the advertisements. The monthly fee isn’t that bad and it sure is a lot better then all the video interruptions so I can watch a video start to finish without a single add.
@@willispower9493 Yeah but Adblock is free
@@DubsnSubsSessions you cannot use Adblock with an iPhone, and that’s how I watch most of my YT, either phone or iPad. Joe can turn off mid video ad breaks. 13 breaks in a 46 min vid is utterly ridiculous now.
@@MrRctintin But you realise UA-cam have just changed things and made those midrolls automatic? Like most creators don't even realise it's started to happen? Also, you having apple devices isn't really an excuse, you made the mistake of buying them. But at the end of the day, it's UA-cam getting greedy. Joe isn't intentionally putting an invasive number of ads in his videos.
@@DubsnSubsSessions mid adverts can be stopped. Joe has the ability to turn that off. I have no issues with ads at the beginning and end, but 13 through the video has got ridiculous. I know the number is not upto Joe, but allowing them to stop his videos is in his hands.
Really like your channel Joe! Always looking for something new from you in my feed!
Awesome, thank you!
@@joepie221 You are definitely going to hit 100k subscribers by Christmas! Love the tack you have in showing something different than someone else and how the results of a particular decision has consequences later.
And all at once I thought... wait... that’s just a big freakin fancy clevis... 🤯😂
Joe, two cures for the bronze crushing; lead sheet for the shim. or make those "shoes" in pairs. poppy's workshop says HI
Very informative, maybe I should go back to work. Keep up the good work 👍
Ultimately, thats how it ended up.
Thanks again Joe, enjoyed as always!
@JoePieczynski You or your father/grandfather/anyone has arrived from Poland?
Great series with steam engine.
My Great Grand Parents came from Poland.
@@joepie221 Currently in Poland is 1511 person with second name Pieczyński, most in city Poznań and around. My family name has only 108 people.
Have a nice day, and we are waiting for next episode.
I zero the DRO with the cutter on the top of the parallel then the DRO reads part height directly.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you... for the metric. Not a lot of Americans do that when they are the odd one out.
Awesome...thanks....I would have lost the bar bet on copper deforming this material!
You and me both!
That would have made 2 of us paying up.,,,,,Aluminum welding wire next time maybe????? Maybe delrin???
@@mathewmolk2089 Trouble with some welding rod it is very hard due to the whatever they add to it. I have some that is VERY hard to cut with pliers, need to use a saw. Probably a better bet is cooking foil, scrunched up to make a thick pad.
Not quite the same as the full size original pieces they probably setup with some wood blocks, wedges hammer, level, scibes, and a trained eye. :-) I got to use a vise to hold a part last week, I had almost forgotten how. LOL
Love your videos, Brian.
and thanks you for you help and knowledge really appreciate you
Joe i really enjoyed this (TOP MAN) great job mate
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome work Joe, thank you!
Regarding electrical copper wire, it is partially hardened. Otherwise, it would break when the electrician is handling it (and terminals would not remain tight). Flash that copper wire (or sheet if you use it) with a torch to red heat to anneal. Also, you were concentrating the clamping force to small area in both cases. Your aluminum should have been forked or slotted so it bore upon the 2 flats spanning the bulge. You can also anneal the aluminum (after machining, unless you want to machine chewing gum!)
You obviously didn't watch the entire video.
@@joepie221 I did watch the entire video, start to end! I could not find any reference to using the copper wire in any of the setups (until you showed the damage). I could also find no reference to annealing the aluminum pad either. You did make comment that the copper was "dead soft". Is that the thing you claim I am missing?
If you had known the material was so fragile, you could have made a 2nd aluminum nest, but with a bump on the outside to permit it to rock in the vice. If it's too fragile for that, then you must resort to Woods metal or epoxy embedment.
With the damage from the copper wire I wager it's a combination of the copper wire being age hardened and the casting being porous. I have seen cast parts so porous that they looked solid but leaked like a sieve, and I can only assume it has a similar effect on strength.
Another great video thanks Joe!
Well thought,well done.Thank you.
hey Joe,
i love the videos you put out. i was wonder could you do a video on taper threads? there not a single good video on how to machine taper threads from start to finish. Finding all the information you need to be able to machine taper threads you make for a good video. i appreciate everything you do for the machining community!
You machine a taper thread the same way you machine a thread, and a taper, except at the same time. You use a taper attachment or an offset tailstock and thread as normal.
@@SuperAWaC 1 degree 47 minutes per side.
Another great video Joe!
I appreciate that
cant wait until it's done and working
Me too.
Before I start this video I just need to say OMG..... HOLY (enter expletive). I just watched a video from another UA-camr working on the cylinder casting. Wow!!!. Ok now I'm going to watch an artist.
I watched it too. I'm still speechless. Truly beyond words.
@Neptune's Creations
I watched it too. OMG I actually laughed out loud several times and couldn't believe my eyes. Yet she allows her people to believe it 's Ok and things will end well. Good thing she's making a toy and has a day job to fall back on. Just WOW.
There is no shame in seeking advice from someone with more experience. When she does that same part I hope it doesn't fall off the table and hit her in the head. It will deform that part.
Just take it as there is her way, Keith Appleton way and then there is the right way or Joe's way.
@@CraigLYoung Are you saying Joe's way is wrong? Tell us why.
another super interesting video. was there a reason you used an indicator to find center as opposed to an edge finder? not wanting to remove a tool?
That, and once you find center with an indicator, you are already there. No shift necessary.
Great video Joe! thanks!
Bronce consists of at least 60% copper. Maybe you grabbed the portion with the copper. 😁 Anyway, well done again.
neat video series, sure seems like it might be less work to have started from solid blocks of material, but i guess that's not the same challenge.
It surprised me that the copper wire damaged the part. For years now i use copper electric wire to hold irregular parts and i never had that problem.