Good morning Thank you very much, this solution worked on my Yamaha RX-V471, the chip location is not in the same place but easily identifiable on the chip with the instructions in the video. I did one more thing, I disconnected all the connectors near the chip so as not to melt them. GREAT JOB. I'm so happy, tonight it's cinema and popcorn!!!!
This worked for me - I fixed my Yamah RX-A1020. Use Flux and a Heat Gun like in the video. Get a laser-pointer thermometer to check the temp. After the successful fix, you will want to use thermal paste to glue a small heatsink onto that DSP chip. Buy the heatsink and paste in advance. 1. Hook up a speaker to the stereo to test that it is working or not. 2. Open the lid. 3. Heat the DSP chip to about 150-200 degrees F to confirm that sound comes back and that is your problem. 4. Unhook all electricity 5. put a small amount of flux all around outside of chip. 6. heat the perimeter of the chip (the flux) to about 350 degrees F, as evenly as possible. I heard a couple small "pops" while I did this. Check the temp often and don't get too hot too quick. The entire process takes about 5 mins. or less. 7. Wait for the chip to cool back down. Do NOT touch the chip or wipe it clean while it is still hot. 8. After it cools, turn on the power and check. I couldn't believe it, but mine actually works now. 9. Recommended step 9 - glue a heatsink to the top of the chip to help manage the heat in the future so that this fix will last longer. The DSP chip is a little less that 1" inch square. I'm not sure 100% sure of the max heatsink size - around 22mm I think. Google how to apply heatsinks.
I don’t have any measurements of how hot the chip gets after hours of normal use. Then I don’t have any measurements of how hot the chip gets with the heat sink. Everything is based on the assumption that thermal expansion and contraction caused the original issue, and on the assumption that a heat sink will keep it a little bit cooler so that it expands and contracts less.
Thanks for the tips. I will follow your first tip to confirm it´s the same problem, if this works I will definetely add a heatsink just like you said. I had noticed the receiver (HTR-2064) does produce a lot of heat that comes out from the top of the unit, I can only imagine during some extreme hot summer days...
@@italiwoods Yes, heat is the killer of electronics. Most of the heat comes from the analog side of the board (amplifier part). Order some thermal pad or paste to put under the heat sink like you would on a computer processor. You may also consider changing the thermal paste under the power mosfets. Those you can find screwed in to the heat sink on the front side. Those produce lots of heat.
thank you sir,just fix my htr-2071 cleaning with pure gasoline the dsp chip,from dust and dirt.Then the speaker icon apears again,and sound comes up.Thank you again ,you save me money!
This technique worked perfectly on my RX-A2020. Other videos suggested to remove the chip and resolder etc, but that was not necessary. Just did a reflow like in the video and it worked. Just a note, the RX-A2020 has two cinemaDSP-chips, tried the heating/cooling technique to determine which chip was at fault but it was difficult because they are located fairly near each other. So I just did a reflow on both of them at the same time.
Nice to hear that this worked. Hopefully this will last you a long time. Just beware that the issue may come back since the issue is most likely caused by a bad chip.
RX-A820 fixed following this method! I'm not too experienced with this sort of thing, but I also put on some high temp tape over some of the surrounding components and solder joints. Heated the Flux to 400 degrees. Good as new. Hopefully it will last. Thank you!
Good idea that tape. Remember to let the area cool down before removing the tape otherwise you may rip of some components. You may try adding a cooler to the chip or a heat sink. That will make the repair last longer. Thank you for the comment.
@@modernfix1 How much heat is generated by the DSP chip directly? Because if most of the heat comes from the power supply or other components, I'd imagine a heatsink wouldn't really help in this case unless you have airflow to vent the chassis. Otherwise wouldn't it just stay at roughly the same ambient temperature?
@@Kumputer Very good point. Good airflow is the best thing that you can do. I have not tested how much actual chip generates heat. I have seen cases where people have added a normal computer case fan since they are low rpm and do not make a lot of noise. You can mount them outside of the case and get the power from a usb power adapter or rig a 5v power supply to them.
Maybe my feeling of accomplishment is premature. Seems like the chip is already starting to go bad again. Sound is cutting out frequently, and the speaker icons disappear starting today. Considering ordering a new chip, though the replacement looks a bit more difficult.
@@Kumputer yes, this is not permanent fix. I would say more like a fix so that you have time to order the new chip. Some people have luck and this last for years and other break down faster.
Nice to hear. But remember that this not a permanent solution. For me it worked for about 6months of daily usage. I have heard that some go strong for years. Hope yours go for years. Thank you for your comment.
@@modernfix1Same issue with my Yamaha HTR 2064, I will follow your method. Hopefully a small heatsink (like on mother board chipset) on this IC should avoid this problem in future
Hi! First of all, thank you very much for sharing your solutions. I have a Yamaha RX-V375 and only the Surround speakers have stopped working. What could it be?
I think it is related to the same issue. Since I have seen devices that first work with stereo only and after a while even they stop working. If I remember correctly this was also the case with my device.
google the chips and see what they do and usually you can find the data sheet of that chip. If you do not have the legs it is usually then a chip that has solder balls under it and you just do the reflow with flux and hot air same way.
Also, check the ADC and any crystals that provide clock frequency for any ic's that have them. Sometimes it can be worth checking capacitors in the same zone.
This is brilliant. Even just the hair dryer heat up test step seemed to fix my unit with now only the odd drop out. So I am looking to do the full fix, but my local electronics store only has a flux pen (like a highlighter) or a lead solder paste in a syringe which is actually what the store owner was suggesting would be best for the job. He reckoned the suspended solder would get pulled into the gaps and do a better job of filling the gaps than just flux alone. Any thoughts on solder paste for this kind of application? Or should I be just getting flux used here?
Solder paste is brilliant stuff, I like to use when soldering smd components back on. You can use solder paste and the heat will suck the solder to metal. Good thing when using it you need a lot less heat and no danger knocking of other components. But be warned if you use too much you will run in to the risk of creating bridges between other components and bridging other pins together. This will cause a short and may break your device. This is a case where less is more. In any case this is a good idea, please let me know how it worked. P.S. it is a good idea to have a good soldering iron if you have any bridges.
@@modernfix1 thanks for info, tips and encouragement. Can I double check one thing? Your video mentions +410 deg Celcius but others in the comments are talking about 400 F . Are you sure the temp should be +410 Celcius? Did you mean Fahrenheit? Seems crazy hot.
@@fceuropa I am in the EU so use celcius and all my equipment is in celsius. I do apologize if I have used incorrect terms. English is not my native language. When you are dealing with solder and electronics you need to use crazy hot temperatures. As odd as it sounds it will cause less damage since you will use less time and time is the crucial thing here. You will also have understand that PCB's and other components will take the heat also. e.g. if you have multilayer PCB the all the layers contains coppor and it will spread the heat everywhere. Normal solder that does not contain aluminum or lead has a very high melting point 350-380celsius. So you need to apply lots of heat to get the solder to melt fast. Their are lots of different types of solder and most industrial use solder has a very high melting point. Did this help you to understand why you need crazy hot temperatures.
@@modernfix1 awesome, thanks for the confirmation and the extra info. And no need for apologies as it seems like you had the correct terms all along. I better go buy that heat gun as it sounds like my hairdryer is not going to cut it for this task :)
Le fabriquant Texas Instrument a reconnu une dégradation prématurée de leur chip. Ce chip équipe de nombreuses versions d'amplificateurs Yamaha. Texas Instrument recommande le remplacement du chip D80YK113CPTP4 par un D80YK113DPTP4 qui est une version corrigée.
@Modern fix I have the same problem as you with my Yamaha RX V675. Does your device still work after your intervention or did you end up changing the chip?
I’ve got the same unit brand new in the box the only difference between what you showed and what mine is doing is the Dolby logo actually lights up but the speaker indicators do not light up. I did a firmware update still did not fix the problem the protect relay does click, which tells me it’s not in protect mode so I’m assuming it probably is that shit that you had to flow but this is brand new in the box I find that kind of funny it’s got the remote it’s got the manuals with it. It has the optional Wi-Fi network adapter that was sold separately also new in the box, it’s amazing
Unfortunately it did not work in my case (RX-A3010). Luckily I managed not to fry the chip somehow, but I had to reset it to at least make it work. Maybe it's not a real problem in my case, but it seems very likely... Anaway I'll try to order new chip and replace using your other video. Anyway, thanks for the info and instructions.
Amazing video. I'm having this exact problem and I'm sure this will fix it! Unfortunately, I have no clue how to solder or what you're using in this video. I can order a heating gun, but what is the solution your using / putting around the chip! ???
The thing in the tube was soldering flux. It helps to make the solder tin flow. I have a tube of some cheap stuff made in china. The brand is Hanwuyou advanced metals tech inc. Flux type NC-559-ASM. Almost any soldering flux in a tube can be used. The best would be amtec 559 rosin flux. Cheap heat gun is about 30dollars and a tube off flux is about 5-10dollars. You only need those to make the fix. I will try to do a video about soldering in a future but there are a lot of quids on youtube on how to do it.
Great video, I tried this but didnt work for me - I used a bit of an inaccurate heatgun, but said it was around 450*c. Held around it for 2 mins using same paste as in video - I didnt have any iso to clean up the area - is this a deal breaker? Will also just try running through sound while heating the dsp chip to see if thats actually even the issue - I would think it would be - Many thanks
Sorry to heard that. If it is the DSP chip you should be missing to logo on the startup like in my video. The problem with inaccurate heatguns is that they may run too hot. Too much heat will damage the chip and may cause other issue such as solder causing bridges to other components and causing them to short out. This is why you should always use a hot air soldering gun because the temperature is precise heat and you can also control the air flow. Cleaning up of the flux is important because there is some many different type of flux some you can leave and others you must clean. Take a look at your flux what does it say about cleaning. Here is a good tread about the issue www.avsforum.com/threads/the-official-yamaha-rx-v673-thread-7-2-channel-network-avr.1408245/page-203 I actually bought a new chip D80YK113DPTP400 for my amplifier. I will post the video on how to change it.
@@DrAVRECEIVER It did not ask it but I did a firmware update on it and a full factory reset. I think it may vary since this unit was in a factory repair shop before. The firmware update can be downloaded from yamaha website.
I have v379, same problem did the process but now wont turn on, checked with the multimeter i have short on various terminals of the dsp with the case (ground) definitely did something wrong, gonna buy a new dsp ic and gave a last shot to this guys before throwing him to the window
Sorry hear that, did knock components off during the heating or did you case bridges between to components? Take a look at the area you heated is their anything that does not look right?
I´m about to send mine for repair, the thing is I have no local repair shop so I have to ship it even before knowing if it is worth the repair. My friend has a heat gun so I might as well give this a try, have it stored in a box for 2/3 years with no sound, everything else seems to be working fine.
I asked from Yamaha certified repair shop for the estimate price of a new HDMI card. In my country the estimated price was 540eur and they said if they can even get. Estimated delivery time was 2-6months due to the global chip problem.
Aaaaa... So I finally did it, borrowed a heat gun from a friend and tried the fix. No luck, didn’t go as well. Heard some cracks, smelt like burned plastic for a moment, and nothing changed. Monitored the temperature for 2 minutes, didn’t pass the 200 degrees I think. Well, garbage with it I guess. Time to get a new amp ahah.
@@italiwoods Very sorry to hear that. You can try selling the other boards for spairs. There is a big market for those since new parts are rarely available these days.
Hi and thanks so much for posting this video! Helps isolate the problem area. Question: can WD-40 be used instead of the flux? If the objective is to remove oxidation and grime, should theoretically work… Also, I don’t have any of the other equipment like flux and heater. Thanks so much!
No you cannot use wd-40 because flux is used to make the solder melt better and make a solid connection. WD-40 can be used near electronic device because it does not conduct electricity but not to this purpose. Name come from water displacing formula 40. It was made by NASA to keep the rockets from rusting.
@@izzzzzz6 I use it because helps the solder to melt better. Solder wire usually has a flux core and it helps the solder to melt and gives better contact.
Thank you for the vid! So u don’t need to replace the chip? Would it occur again? Also, what’s the solution on the toothbrush? Is it from that can? If so, what’s solution is in the can? AT IPA or ART IPA?
If it happens again you can try removing the chip and replacing the solder under the chip with fresh solder. If that does not work you would need a new chip, but issue with a new chip is that they are very hard to find depending on your location. New chips are not expensive about 30dollars. I could not find any in my area and if could the shipping was very expensive. The solution I use for cleaning is IPA (iso propral alcohol) if you cannot get it you can use zippo petrol also. Or any electronic cleaner
You can try resetting the amplifier. You can find the instructions to do that by googling your model and how to reset it. Or you can try updating the firmware, you can download them from yamahas website. The same chip controls the speaker output also so it may your chip that is causing the issue.
Yes, of course I can share. The thing in the tube was soldering flux. It helps to make the solder tin flow. I have a tube of some cheap stuff made in china. The brand is Hanwuyou advanced metals tech inc. Flux type NC-559-ASM. Almost any soldering flux in a tube can be used. The best would be amtec 559 rosin flux.
Hi, thanks for the video again I bought the flux from Amazon is a no clean Amtech brand (NC-559-V2- TF) that worked like a charm now my RX-A1020 is singing again thanks to your sharing thank you again.
I bought pioneer private pro ax 720 amplifier but it is not giving sound to the speakers but when i turn on the amplifier there is a slight vibration in the amplifier. Plz tell how can i fix
Hard to say what could be wrong with it. Sound like you may have power supply issue. Have you taken a look at the power supply? Does it have any bad capacitors, bad wiring or discoloration on the PCB? You can find my email address on the channel info and you can email me pictures and video also about your amplifier if you want. Or post a link on youtube of you issues and I can take a look. This DSP chip is mainly on Yamaha amplifiers since it was a faulty ship made by texas instruments for Yamaha.
You can check this by looking at a service manual for your amplifier. Find the schematic of the board with the dsp chip and locate the ic number of that chip. Then look at the side or the bottom of the page to see the part number if it is not written on or near the drawing of the chip in the schematic.
Just about to do this too my RX-A770 what type of flux would you recommend? Little confused at what type of materials ur using, first application looks like a paste and the second a liquid. If you could thanks
I use Flux NC-559-ASM the amazon link is in the description for more information. It is paste but when the surface is hot it melts in to a liquid. This liquid makes the solder to flow more and their by making the connection solid again. To cleanup I use IPA (isopropyl alcohol). There are fluxes that do not need cleanup but I find it that the board looks cleaner when the flux is cleaned away. Hope that this helps, if you have more questions feel free to ask.
The thing in the tube was soldering flux. It helps to make the solder tin flow. I have a tube of some cheap stuff made in china. The brand is Hanwuyou advanced metals tech inc. Flux type NC-559-ASM. Almost any soldering flux in a tube can be used. The best would be amtec 559 rosin flux.
@@modernfix1 Can any type of flux be used? And did it help for a long time in your case? And the last question, did you replace this dsp with a new one? Regards
@@robertsami for me this fix lasted for about 6month if I remember correctly. Then I changed the chip. But I have read on the internet that this has lasted longer for some people. You never know.
i have the same problem.. i was driving to my service partner whith this and he say its the "digi board" and to fix this shit it costs me 700euro.. i cant belive this :( i can buy 6,7 of this whith 700euro.. its old as fu... sadly time to destroy it and buy a new one :( it was a very good recevier! but im to dumb to fix this myself :/
Old stuff like this is always good practice google the issue and then try. You have nothing to lose. I break stuff and fail at repairs all the time. But I keep trying. Because one day you will get something fixed and that is one of the greatest feelings in the world.
yeah maybe u right, but i need the tools and a bit of knowhow i think.. i will try it but idk what im doing.. maybe i got some luck.. i cant belive in my case its the digi board.. its 99% same chip@@modernfix1
No, since the chip may be damaged. Permanent would be a new chip. But this solution may work for week or 2-3 years. Like I have stated before I could not find a new chip if you know a source that has world wide shipping please let me know. My amplier has work now fine for 3months already. A cooler on the chip will also prolong the life of this fix.
Chip reballing can be done if want, but usually you need stencil to do a good reballing. If you know where to find this stencil for this chip that would be nice to know.
I am facing constant relay clicking issue with my Yamaha HTR-2071 and there is no sound from speakers. Kindly check this video here: ua-cam.com/video/A3NIpx4izXI/v-deo.html. This video is of Yamaha RX-V481 but I am also facing the exact same issue. Please help.
I dont think that this issue the same. If a relay is clicking all the time maybe a power supply issue. Take a look with a multimeter is the current jumping up and down. Start by taking that board out and hooking it up so that you can measure the connection points. If the relays are the same you can change them and if the problem still their then the power supply is the fault. Start tracing the line where the current comes.
@@modernfix1 Thank you very much for your prompt reply. What I meant was that the speaker relay clicking in my Yamaha HTR-2071 is similar to the one in Yamaha RX-V481 shown in the video for which I provided the link in my comment. I am not a very technical person. I sent my unit for diagnostics and repair. I was told that the main/HDMI board of the unit was faulty and therefore, required replacement. Firstly, it is hard to believe; and secondly, the board is very expensive.
@@xxtra111 Yes, the HDMI card is very expensive and hard to get. Did you try heating the chip? That way you can test if it is the chip. Then you have two options either try to change the chip or get a new card. It is a very common issue with these.
No I am not a professional, but the point of my videos are that you do not need to be to get the job done. It may not look the greatest and my equipment is very low quality because this is just a hobby to me. I hope that I can help people to at least try to fix things them self. Save money and the environment. Small things make big things.
This heating up like I did was just a temporal fix. With me it lasted for 7months and then it failed again. Some have reported even longer time for this fix. Maybe more cooling for the chip with a heatsink would help. But a new chip from aliexpress was needed for a more permanent fix.
Good morning
Thank you very much, this solution worked on my Yamaha RX-V471, the chip location is not in the same place but easily identifiable on the chip with the instructions in the video.
I did one more thing, I disconnected all the connectors near the chip so as not to melt them.
GREAT JOB.
I'm so happy, tonight it's cinema and popcorn!!!!
Very nice, I am so happy that you got it working.
Worked on a RX-A830 🥰 Thanks for taking the time to do this video!
No problem, thank you for taking the time and commenting on the video.
This worked for me - I fixed my Yamah RX-A1020. Use Flux and a Heat Gun like in the video. Get a laser-pointer thermometer to check the temp. After the successful fix, you will want to use thermal paste to glue a small heatsink onto that DSP chip. Buy the heatsink and paste in advance. 1. Hook up a speaker to the stereo to test that it is working or not. 2. Open the lid. 3. Heat the DSP chip to about 150-200 degrees F to confirm that sound comes back and that is your problem. 4. Unhook all electricity 5. put a small amount of flux all around outside of chip. 6. heat the perimeter of the chip (the flux) to about 350 degrees F, as evenly as possible. I heard a couple small "pops" while I did this. Check the temp often and don't get too hot too quick. The entire process takes about 5 mins. or less. 7. Wait for the chip to cool back down. Do NOT touch the chip or wipe it clean while it is still hot. 8. After it cools, turn on the power and check. I couldn't believe it, but mine actually works now. 9. Recommended step 9 - glue a heatsink to the top of the chip to help manage the heat in the future so that this fix will last longer. The DSP chip is a little less that 1" inch square. I'm not sure 100% sure of the max heatsink size - around 22mm I think. Google how to apply heatsinks.
What was the difference in heat on the chip after you put the heat sink on? And how hot was the chip before the heat sink?
I don’t have any measurements of how hot the chip gets after hours of normal use. Then I don’t have any measurements of how hot the chip gets with the heat sink. Everything is based on the assumption that thermal expansion and contraction caused the original issue, and on the assumption that a heat sink will keep it a little bit cooler so that it expands and contracts less.
@@marks_02 Yes you are right. Thank you for your excelent comments.
Thanks for the tips. I will follow your first tip to confirm it´s the same problem, if this works I will definetely add a heatsink just like you said. I had noticed the receiver (HTR-2064) does produce a lot of heat that comes out from the top of the unit, I can only imagine during some extreme hot summer days...
@@italiwoods Yes, heat is the killer of electronics. Most of the heat comes from the analog side of the board (amplifier part). Order some thermal pad or paste to put under the heat sink like you would on a computer processor. You may also consider changing the thermal paste under the power mosfets. Those you can find screwed in to the heat sink on the front side. Those produce lots of heat.
thank you sir,just fix my htr-2071 cleaning with pure gasoline the dsp chip,from dust and dirt.Then the speaker icon apears again,and sound comes up.Thank you again ,you save me money!
Thank you for the comment. I am glad that this helped you to solve the issue. Happy to help
This technique worked perfectly on my RX-A2020. Other videos suggested to remove the chip and resolder etc, but that was not necessary. Just did a reflow like in the video and it worked.
Just a note, the RX-A2020 has two cinemaDSP-chips, tried the heating/cooling technique to determine which chip was at fault but it was difficult because they are located fairly near each other. So I just did a reflow on both of them at the same time.
Nice to hear that this worked. Hopefully this will last you a long time. Just beware that the issue may come back since the issue is most likely caused by a bad chip.
Thank you very much! Helped to fix the problem I had with my RX-V773! I couldn't find anything in my country (Brazil). Thank you very much!
Good to hear that this was helpful
Hi, I have the same problem in my Yamaha AV 10 30 Aventage... Would it work as well?!@@modernfix1
RX-A820 fixed following this method! I'm not too experienced with this sort of thing, but I also put on some high temp tape over some of the surrounding components and solder joints. Heated the Flux to 400 degrees. Good as new. Hopefully it will last. Thank you!
Good idea that tape. Remember to let the area cool down before removing the tape otherwise you may rip of some components. You may try adding a cooler to the chip or a heat sink. That will make the repair last longer. Thank you for the comment.
@@modernfix1 How much heat is generated by the DSP chip directly? Because if most of the heat comes from the power supply or other components, I'd imagine a heatsink wouldn't really help in this case unless you have airflow to vent the chassis. Otherwise wouldn't it just stay at roughly the same ambient temperature?
@@Kumputer Very good point. Good airflow is the best thing that you can do. I have not tested how much actual chip generates heat. I have seen cases where people have added a normal computer case fan since they are low rpm and do not make a lot of noise. You can mount them outside of the case and get the power from a usb power adapter or rig a 5v power supply to them.
Maybe my feeling of accomplishment is premature. Seems like the chip is already starting to go bad again. Sound is cutting out frequently, and the speaker icons disappear starting today. Considering ordering a new chip, though the replacement looks a bit more difficult.
@@Kumputer yes, this is not permanent fix. I would say more like a fix so that you have time to order the new chip. Some people have luck and this last for years and other break down faster.
Thanks a lot for this excellent video !!! I followed all your instructions and it's working ! Merci beaucoup !
Nice to hear. But remember that this not a permanent solution. For me it worked for about 6months of daily usage. I have heard that some go strong for years. Hope yours go for years. Thank you for your comment.
@@modernfix1Same issue with my Yamaha HTR 2064, I will follow your method. Hopefully a small heatsink (like on mother board chipset) on this IC should avoid this problem in future
Hi!
First of all, thank you very much for sharing your solutions.
I have a Yamaha RX-V375 and only the Surround speakers have stopped working.
What could it be?
I think it is related to the same issue. Since I have seen devices that first work with stereo only and after a while even they stop working. If I remember correctly this was also the case with my device.
My RX-830 have same problem. I hope its works
On my rx-a770 I see two dsp chips. But I don’t see the sliver prongs sticking out like yours.
google the chips and see what they do and usually you can find the data sheet of that chip. If you do not have the legs it is usually then a chip that has solder balls under it and you just do the reflow with flux and hot air same way.
pls what’s name of the first chemical you applied in syringe?and can this fix Rx A2010?thank you
It is called solder flux, it is also in the description.
Also, check the ADC and any crystals that provide clock frequency for any ic's that have them. Sometimes it can be worth checking capacitors in the same zone.
Yes with an old amplifier usual maintenance is to replace all the electrolytic caps.
This is brilliant. Even just the hair dryer heat up test step seemed to fix my unit with now only the odd drop out. So I am looking to do the full fix, but my local electronics store only has a flux pen (like a highlighter) or a lead solder paste in a syringe which is actually what the store owner was suggesting would be best for the job. He reckoned the suspended solder would get pulled into the gaps and do a better job of filling the gaps than just flux alone. Any thoughts on solder paste for this kind of application? Or should I be just getting flux used here?
Solder paste is brilliant stuff, I like to use when soldering smd components back on. You can use solder paste and the heat will suck the solder to metal. Good thing when using it you need a lot less heat and no danger knocking of other components. But be warned if you use too much you will run in to the risk of creating bridges between other components and bridging other pins together. This will cause a short and may break your device. This is a case where less is more. In any case this is a good idea, please let me know how it worked. P.S. it is a good idea to have a good soldering iron if you have any bridges.
@@modernfix1 thanks for info, tips and encouragement. Can I double check one thing? Your video mentions +410 deg Celcius but others in the comments are talking about 400 F . Are you sure the temp should be +410 Celcius? Did you mean Fahrenheit? Seems crazy hot.
@@fceuropa I am in the EU so use celcius and all my equipment is in celsius. I do apologize if I have used incorrect terms. English is not my native language. When you are dealing with solder and electronics you need to use crazy hot temperatures. As odd as it sounds it will cause less damage since you will use less time and time is the crucial thing here. You will also have understand that PCB's and other components will take the heat also. e.g. if you have multilayer PCB the all the layers contains coppor and it will spread the heat everywhere. Normal solder that does not contain aluminum or lead has a very high melting point 350-380celsius. So you need to apply lots of heat to get the solder to melt fast. Their are lots of different types of solder and most industrial use solder has a very high melting point. Did this help you to understand why you need crazy hot temperatures.
@@modernfix1 awesome, thanks for the confirmation and the extra info. And no need for apologies as it seems like you had the correct terms all along. I better go buy that heat gun as it sounds like my hairdryer is not going to cut it for this task :)
Le fabriquant Texas Instrument a reconnu une dégradation prématurée de leur chip. Ce chip équipe de nombreuses versions d'amplificateurs Yamaha. Texas Instrument recommande le remplacement du chip D80YK113CPTP4 par un D80YK113DPTP4 qui est une version corrigée.
thank you for the extra information.
@Modern fix
I have the same problem as you with my Yamaha RX V675. Does your device still work after your intervention or did you end up changing the chip?
It worked for about 6 months, just long enough so I got a new chip from aliexpress. Replaced the chip, there is also a video about it.
@@modernfix1 thx 👍
Better to keep the chip hot or cold? I was going to add a heat sink to the chip.
All electronics like to be cold. Heat sink is a good Idea.
I’ve got the same unit brand new in the box the only difference between what you showed and what mine is doing is the Dolby logo actually lights up but the speaker indicators do not light up. I did a firmware update still did not fix the problem the protect relay does click, which tells me it’s not in protect mode so I’m assuming it probably is that shit that you had to flow but this is brand new in the box I find that kind of funny it’s got the remote it’s got the manuals with it. It has the optional Wi-Fi network adapter that was sold separately also new in the box, it’s amazing
Hope you can return it or get it fixed under warranty.
Unfortunately it did not work in my case (RX-A3010). Luckily I managed not to fry the chip somehow, but I had to reset it to at least make it work. Maybe it's not a real problem in my case, but it seems very likely... Anaway I'll try to order new chip and replace using your other video. Anyway, thanks for the info and instructions.
sorry to hear that this did not help. Hope you will get it working.
I have rhe same problem with my rx 3010 . Did you say that there is an order part and where I could get the chip? thanks
This is not a BGA chip, I can re-solder with normal soldering irons?
yes you can, no solder balls on this one.
Great detailed video - well done.
Thank you
Amazing video. I'm having this exact problem and I'm sure this will fix it! Unfortunately, I have no clue how to solder or what you're using in this video. I can order a heating gun, but what is the solution your using / putting around the chip! ???
The thing in the tube was soldering flux. It helps to make the solder tin flow. I have a tube of some cheap stuff made in china. The brand is Hanwuyou advanced metals tech inc. Flux type NC-559-ASM. Almost any soldering flux in a tube can be used. The best would be amtec 559 rosin flux. Cheap heat gun is about 30dollars and a tube off flux is about 5-10dollars. You only need those to make the fix. I will try to do a video about soldering in a future but there are a lot of quids on youtube on how to do it.
@@modernfix1 it worked !! I even had to use some Flux paste but it worked great
@@rolanddeschain7060 Great, good to hear that you got your amplifier to work. The best feeling in the world when you fix something.
Great video, I tried this but didnt work for me - I used a bit of an inaccurate heatgun, but said it was around 450*c. Held around it for 2 mins using same paste as in video - I didnt have any iso to clean up the area - is this a deal breaker? Will also just try running through sound while heating the dsp chip to see if thats actually even the issue - I would think it would be - Many thanks
Sorry to heard that. If it is the DSP chip you should be missing to logo on the startup like in my video. The problem with inaccurate heatguns is that they may run too hot. Too much heat will damage the chip and may cause other issue such as solder causing bridges to other components and causing them to short out. This is why you should always use a hot air soldering gun because the temperature is precise heat and you can also control the air flow. Cleaning up of the flux is important because there is some many different type of flux some you can leave and others you must clean. Take a look at your flux what does it say about cleaning.
Here is a good tread about the issue www.avsforum.com/threads/the-official-yamaha-rx-v673-thread-7-2-channel-network-avr.1408245/page-203
I actually bought a new chip D80YK113DPTP400 for my amplifier. I will post the video on how to change it.
@@modernfix1 hi sir will this required software after changing the dsp ic?
@@DrAVRECEIVER It did not ask it but I did a firmware update on it and a full factory reset. I think it may vary since this unit was in a factory repair shop before. The firmware update can be downloaded from yamaha website.
I have v379, same problem did the process but now wont turn on, checked with the multimeter i have short on various terminals of the dsp with the case (ground) definitely did something wrong, gonna buy a new dsp ic and gave a last shot to this guys before throwing him to the window
A mi me ha pasado lo mismo.
¿Lo solucionaste cambiando el chip?
Yes, I had to change the chip at the end. The heating worked for about 6months.
I gave this a shot and now my unit won’t power on any suggestions?
Sorry hear that, did knock components off during the heating or did you case bridges between to components? Take a look at the area you heated is their anything that does not look right?
I´m about to send mine for repair, the thing is I have no local repair shop so I have to ship it even before knowing if it is worth the repair. My friend has a heat gun so I might as well give this a try, have it stored in a box for 2/3 years with no sound, everything else seems to be working fine.
I asked from Yamaha certified repair shop for the estimate price of a new HDMI card. In my country the estimated price was 540eur and they said if they can even get. Estimated delivery time was 2-6months due to the global chip problem.
@@modernfix1 I did the same, it’s around 250€ if the whole board has to be replaced. Thats how much I paid for the whole unit. 540€ is just nuts!
@@italiwoods Yes, that is too much money. Everything is getting so expensive these days.
Aaaaa... So I finally did it, borrowed a heat gun from a friend and tried the fix. No luck, didn’t go as well. Heard some cracks, smelt like burned plastic for a moment, and nothing changed. Monitored the temperature for 2 minutes, didn’t pass the 200 degrees I think. Well, garbage with it I guess. Time to get a new amp ahah.
@@italiwoods Very sorry to hear that. You can try selling the other boards for spairs. There is a big market for those since new parts are rarely available these days.
I’m reading different temperatures to heat up the chip and I’m seeing F vs Celsius interchanged? Can someone confirm the correct temperature
You can use google to look up the conversion of metric units to imperial. e.g. celsius to farenheit
Hwo oftem does thisnproblem appears? I mean i am going to buy used 775, how many chances i have to get it with failed chip?
if the same chip is there it will most likely fail. Buy a model with a newer chip version.
Hi and thanks so much for posting this video! Helps isolate the problem area.
Question: can WD-40 be used instead of the flux?
If the objective is to remove oxidation and grime, should theoretically work… Also, I don’t have any of the other equipment like flux and heater.
Thanks so much!
No you cannot use wd-40 because flux is used to make the solder melt better and make a solid connection. WD-40 can be used near electronic device because it does not conduct electricity but not to this purpose. Name come from water displacing formula 40. It was made by NASA to keep the rockets from rusting.
@@modernfix1 Flux is used to stop oxidation but it also seems to help with the transfer of heat.
@@izzzzzz6 I use it because helps the solder to melt better. Solder wire usually has a flux core and it helps the solder to melt and gives better contact.
Thank you for the vid!
So u don’t need to replace the chip? Would it occur again?
Also, what’s the solution on the toothbrush? Is it from that can? If so, what’s solution is in the can? AT IPA or ART IPA?
If it happens again you can try removing the chip and replacing the solder under the chip with fresh solder. If that does not work you would need a new chip, but issue with a new chip is that they are very hard to find depending on your location. New chips are not expensive about 30dollars. I could not find any in my area and if could the shipping was very expensive.
The solution I use for cleaning is IPA (iso propral alcohol) if you cannot get it you can use zippo petrol also. Or any electronic cleaner
Hello excellent explanation step by step What is the name of the liquid that is put on the DTS and my onkyo has no sound
I have a similar issue but my sound disappears together with the speakers logo, however my DSP stays on. Any idea i what could be the issue?
You can try resetting the amplifier. You can find the instructions to do that by googling your model and how to reset it. Or you can try updating the firmware, you can download them from yamahas website. The same chip controls the speaker output also so it may your chip that is causing the issue.
Could you share the name and brand of the product you used. having the same problem with my RX-A1020. will be greatly appreciated
Yes, of course I can share. The thing in the tube was soldering flux. It helps to make the solder tin flow. I have a tube of some cheap stuff made in china. The brand is Hanwuyou advanced metals tech inc. Flux type NC-559-ASM. Almost any soldering flux in a tube can be used. The best would be amtec 559 rosin flux.
Hi, thanks for the video again I bought the flux from Amazon is a no clean Amtech brand (NC-559-V2- TF) that worked like a charm now my RX-A1020 is singing again thanks to your sharing thank you again.
@@luisfloresm1 Nice to get feedback that this worked for you. Thank you for great questions and commenting.
I’m having this problem with the same model as you. The
RX-A1020. Hoping this will fix the issue
@@luisfloresm1so did you not have to clean the flux that you used after heating it up?
I bought pioneer private pro ax 720 amplifier but it is not giving sound to the speakers but when i turn on the amplifier there is a slight vibration in the amplifier. Plz tell how can i fix
Hard to say what could be wrong with it. Sound like you may have power supply issue. Have you taken a look at the power supply? Does it have any bad capacitors, bad wiring or discoloration on the PCB? You can find my email address on the channel info and you can email me pictures and video also about your amplifier if you want. Or post a link on youtube of you issues and I can take a look. This DSP chip is mainly on Yamaha amplifiers since it was a faulty ship made by texas instruments for Yamaha.
@@modernfix1 Thanks for your cooperation i tried to solve it but i didn't successful so i am repairing my amplifier from local market repair shop😊😍
Is this chip the same in rx v367 thanks
The best way to see what your chip is to open your amplifier and take a look at the part number.
You can check this by looking at a service manual for your amplifier. Find the schematic of the board with the dsp chip and locate the ic number of that chip. Then look at the side or the bottom of the page to see the part number if it is not written on or near the drawing of the chip in the schematic.
Just about to do this too my RX-A770 what type of flux would you recommend? Little confused at what type of materials ur using, first application looks like a paste and the second a liquid. If you could thanks
I use Flux NC-559-ASM the amazon link is in the description for more information. It is paste but when the surface is hot it melts in to a liquid. This liquid makes the solder to flow more and their by making the connection solid again. To cleanup I use IPA (isopropyl alcohol). There are fluxes that do not need cleanup but I find it that the board looks cleaner when the flux is cleaned away. Hope that this helps, if you have more questions feel free to ask.
@@modernfix1 Thank man appreciate
My yamaha ....srund right ..speaker sound like (krek krek) ...changr cble alrdy still not ok..don t now why...
Connectivity issue on channel or a dry capacitor maybe.
Its true or a liy ?
true
WHATS IN THE TUBE !!!???
The thing in the tube was soldering flux. It helps to make the solder tin flow. I have a tube of some cheap stuff made in china. The brand is Hanwuyou advanced metals tech inc. Flux type NC-559-ASM. Almost any soldering flux in a tube can be used. The best would be amtec 559 rosin flux.
I think those Texas instruments dsp chip are a complete piece of crap, always making trouble...🙄🙄
I think you are right
สวัสดีครับ.
ผมมี Yamaha Set 1ชุด
มีปีปัญหาอยู่ปัจจุบัน
อยากจะซ่อมครับ
แต่ก่อนอื่นช่วยบอกผม
ได้ใหมว่าคุญอยู่ที่ใหน
หรือครับ ช่วยบอกด้วย
ผมเองอยู่ลาดพร้าว
ซอย 48, กรุงเทพ ครับ
ถ้าไม่ไกลมากทีผม
สามารถขนของมาได้
ครับ ช่วยบอกผมก่อน
ผมจะได้ตัดสินใจครับ
..โอเคนะครับ..หมูครับ
In english please
Please, you didn't tell or show us if the power cable was disconnected or connected to the sucket or not
Power cable should always be disconnected from the wall. For your safety.
Hello, let me ask you where did you buy this chip?
Can you send a link with a good chip?
To avoid buying from a fraudster.
The seller was no longer available on Aliexpress. So I cannot give any recomentations. Aliexpress usually have a good return policy same as ebay.
@@modernfix1 Can any type of flux be used?
And did it help for a long time in your case?
And the last question, did you replace this dsp with a new one?
Regards
@@robertsami for me this fix lasted for about 6month if I remember correctly. Then I changed the chip. But I have read on the internet that this has lasted longer for some people. You never know.
On my rx-a770
ผมอีกทีครับ ผมต้องเขียนเป็นภาษาอังกฤษ
หรือปล่าวครับ ขอบคุณครับ บอกด้วยครับ
ผมจะได้พิมพ์ใหม่.
ขอบคุณครับ ..หมู
Don't understand the question since google translate does not do a good job.
didn't work rx 675
Sad to here that, hope you find a fix for your unit.
i have the same problem.. i was driving to my service partner whith this and he say its the "digi board"
and to fix this shit it costs me 700euro.. i cant belive this :( i can buy 6,7 of this whith 700euro.. its old as fu...
sadly time to destroy it and buy a new one :( it was a very good recevier! but im to dumb to fix this myself :/
Old stuff like this is always good practice google the issue and then try. You have nothing to lose. I break stuff and fail at repairs all the time. But I keep trying. Because one day you will get something fixed and that is one of the greatest feelings in the world.
yeah maybe u right, but i need the tools and a bit of knowhow i think.. i will try it but idk what im doing.. maybe i got some luck.. i cant belive in my case its the digi board.. its 99% same chip@@modernfix1
It is not a permanent solution
No, since the chip may be damaged. Permanent would be a new chip. But this solution may work for week or 2-3 years. Like I have stated before I could not find a new chip if you know a source that has world wide shipping please let me know. My amplier has work now fine for 3months already. A cooler on the chip will also prolong the life of this fix.
Chips not available, states that in the schematics. What other options are available. This usually does work
Ale to jest tylko na chwilę,tam potrzebny rebailing
Chip reballing can be done if want, but usually you need stencil to do a good reballing. If you know where to find this stencil for this chip that would be nice to know.
I am facing constant relay clicking issue with my Yamaha HTR-2071 and there is no sound from speakers. Kindly check this video here: ua-cam.com/video/A3NIpx4izXI/v-deo.html. This video is of Yamaha RX-V481 but I am also facing the exact same issue. Please help.
I dont think that this issue the same. If a relay is clicking all the time maybe a power supply issue. Take a look with a multimeter is the current jumping up and down. Start by taking that board out and hooking it up so that you can measure the connection points. If the relays are the same you can change them and if the problem still their then the power supply is the fault. Start tracing the line where the current comes.
@@modernfix1 Thank you very much for your prompt reply. What I meant was that the speaker relay clicking in my Yamaha HTR-2071 is similar to the one in Yamaha RX-V481 shown in the video for which I provided the link in my comment. I am not a very technical person. I sent my unit for diagnostics and repair. I was told that the main/HDMI board of the unit was faulty and therefore, required replacement. Firstly, it is hard to believe; and secondly, the board is very expensive.
@@xxtra111 Yes, the HDMI card is very expensive and hard to get. Did you try heating the chip? That way you can test if it is the chip. Then you have two options either try to change the chip or get a new card. It is a very common issue with these.
@@modernfix1 Thank you for your suggestion. 😊
@@xxtra111 no problem, hope you get it working.
Not professional soldering!
No I am not a professional, but the point of my videos are that you do not need to be to get the job done. It may not look the greatest and my equipment is very low quality because this is just a hobby to me. I hope that I can help people to at least try to fix things them self. Save money and the environment. Small things make big things.
Cheesy sound track.
Yes I know, free music can't complain
That is not an easy fix lol.. A much easier fix would be to just blow on it with a heat gun lol
This heating up like I did was just a temporal fix. With me it lasted for 7months and then it failed again. Some have reported even longer time for this fix. Maybe more cooling for the chip with a heatsink would help. But a new chip from aliexpress was needed for a more permanent fix.