Restoring a Remington Targetmaster 41! im gonna blue the barrel tomorrow! sanded the stock tonight and oiled it slightly. already looks 20x better than it did when i bought it
Some craft stores sell copper, and brass about the thickness of copy machine paper, copper works great, never tried the brass, but you can bend the sheet to form and shape
Interesting video....however, I remain sceptical to this method. It seem like scraping off the rustflakes while the copper is soft enough not to scratch up the blued surface too much. Looking at Mark Novak's channel, a gunsmith dedicated to restoring old military firearms, he always boil, or steam the rusted firearm to transform the rust into black oxide, and then use a carding wheel to very gently polish the crusty surface after boiling to a very nice finsish. This preserve what original bluing i still on the gun.
I also want to try the boiling method. I will check out his channel. My main intent was to remove the rust and prevent further rusting. I intend to do more videos experimenting with re-bluing Thanks for the comment!
I recently purchased a 1901 Winchester lever action 10 gauge. It has a 3 inch strip of light rust on the barrel,but scared to ruin the old patina finish.
Thanks for the comment! I have a gun that I want to try boiling and carding on but I haven’t gotten the necessary supplies yet, nor I have researched it enough to make sure I don’t screw it up! Lol
I've got an old Stevens model 66-b. Rust isn't quite the problem yours was but the knob on the bolt handle is loosing the chrome and I really don't know what to do about it other than love it for what it is. It's Grandpa's old rifle. Possibly from the 30's!
That’s what was going on with mine....I plan to revisit it in another video and work on the chrome and polish the bolt. I had to look the 66b up...looks like a cool gun. They don’t make them like that anymore! That’s what I love about mine is the heavy barrel! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
@@onthejline9328 it's what having a channel is all about, building community and helping each other. Looks like the penny did a great job, seems like a great idea! I have used tin foil and oil to shine up some chrome just not in an application as ours. However tin or aluminum foil absolutely helps just in lesser application. Maybe bumpers and grill with light scratches and light damage!
Nice video. Help me understand why you are using the penny on the non blued parts. The point of the penny is for the preservation of the blue. Just use flitz with a buffer pad on a dremel on the bolt and trigger. It had no blue to save.
Thanks for the comment! Basically at the point I made that video I knew very little about what I was doing and was just trying different things. Since I was testing the penny I just used it on everything. I still don’t know much...but have learned a lot through trying the videos. I ask my viewers to keep in mind this isn’t a “how to” video, but instead a “I’m going to try this....tell me what you think” video. Again thanks for commenting! I’ve never tried flitz but do plan to go back with a dremel and polish a few of my bolts
I would think that the true copper scrubber would work better than the copper penny. There is a limited amount of contact surface with the penny as apposed to the copper scrubber. Depending on the composition of the scrubber the penny might actually be a little harder for tougher jobs.
Yes the pure scrubber is much more effective and user friendly! The penny was just testing an idea and seeing if it could be done! ...Thanks for commenting!
Pre 1982 copper composition pennies are not bronze. There is no tin in the penny. Bronze is actually 88% copper and 12% tin with some variation depending on how hard you need your bronze to be. Pre 1982 copper pennies are 95% copper and 5% zinc which makes them a very poor substitute for brass which is 66% copper and 34% zinc. There are a lot of variations of brass harder or softer, none of the variations come close to the composition of a pre 1982 copper penny. So penny copper is just that penny copper.
@@66bigbuds From the US mint: "Copper coins, such as the penny, started as pure copper, but rising copper prices led to changes in composition. In 1857, the Mint added nickel to the copper, but switched to tin and zinc in 1864. For the year 1943, pennies became zinc-coated steel because copper was essential to the war effort during World War II. But the Mint also struck a limited number of copper pennies. In 1962 tin was eliminated, and in 1982 the penny became primarily zinc with only 2.5% copper." There is no zinc in bronze, there is no tin in brass. Bronze is still about 88% copper and about 12% tin. Brass is about 66% copper and about 34% zinc. Up until 1962 a penny was nether bronze or brass but a mixture of 95% copper and 5% of tin and or zinc whatever was cheapest at the time, the tin and or zinc just made the penny a little harder so that they would wear longer. Between 1963 and the end of the "copper" penny, the US mint actually calls them Cents which is the correct name for them, the composition was 95% copper and 5% zinc which was at a stretch a crappy brass and actually just a copper alloy with some zinc in to make it harder as tin got more expensive than zinc. The "book" what ever it is is wrong by classifying pennies as bronze, it would also be wrong if it classified pennies as brass. You can pour milk into coffee it still doesn't make it a latte it just makes it coffee with milk in it. Bronze is a very specific material, brass is a very specific material. Copper pennies made between 1864 and 1982 are neither bronze or brass.
Seems like using something like a penny( even though it is copper)that is not just flat but has high an low surfaces on it would tend to take the surface of unevenly.
Thanks for commenting! I think vinegar on tools would work great...I have a cast iron cauldron I will be using vinegar on in an upcoming video BUT vinegar will remove blueing so be careful around firearms
thx for vid, if there is that much rust on the bolt, won't there be similar on inside of barrel? this is patient work, the penny allows more pressure so maybe quicker than copper pad or brass brush. i've not tried the boiling/carding method of your other commenters, but this gives a workable, inexpensive method, keep up the vids
Thank you I really appreciate that.. the rust on the bolt was mostly limited to the small area covering the chamber, and on the knob. The area on the knob has been there since I bought the gun. So far the inside of the barrels are clear and free. The first thing I did once discovering they had rust on them was use a cleaning kit with the wire brushes and run the inside of the barrel and oil them. I sprayed the outsides with Rem Oil and stored them until I could work with each one individually. A process that I’m still working on. Thanks for commenting!
@@onthejline9328 Mineral oil Laxative. Its the same oil packaged and sold by Remington, Hoppes, and used in sewing machines and food equipment. Gun oils are industrial oils like spindle (Mobil Velocite No6) or steam turbine oils (Shell T32.) The mix is what is sold as WD40. You can confirm by looking up the CAS numbers listed in the Materias Safety Data Sheet. It penetrates to the metal surface (water displacing) and suspends the rust particles so they don't abrade the good bluing.
Copper pipe is almost 100% copper so it would be softer than the copper pennies. More like the copper scrubbers. A suitable length of copper pipe would be easier to hold on to and could be shaped on the end to fit more contours.
I would not have the patience to use that little penny. Got to give you props for that 👏 Not sure which one was better of the 3 scrubbing items but wow did the penny get it off the trigger or what? I think both oils did absolutely nothing removing the rust. Going to have to go with the safari on that. Birchwood Casey rust remover will remove the rust and the bluing for sure!
Thanks for watching all three! I tend to agree with the oils. I think they mostly just aid in reducing friction (like wet sanding) but I think the safari was actually helping to “cut” the rust. Hey as far as patience is concerned that’s why I did the video! For people interested in seeing it but may not have the time to do it Oh by the way the penny was a pain to use after my hands got oily, i kept dropping it!
Try an actual (British, 1970 or prior) Penny. They are bronze just as the pre - 1982 U.S. Cent (changed mid '82 to copper plated zinc) but about the diameter of a U.S. Half Dollar.
It’s a dandy! They don’t make them like that anymore. I will say that when I refinished the stock that black paint on the end was a beast to do! It was hard to get it compatible with the clear finish on the rest of the stock
@@onthejline9328 , actually my mom, who loved wood refinishing, did that black end cap almost 50 years ago and did the whole stock, used Birchwood Casey tru-oil. Still looks and shoots great! I had a gunsmith mount the basis for a scope around the same time. I was just shooting it about a month ago!
@@SuperLou63 I want mine drilled for a scope base. My eyes ain’t 20-20 anymore. Lol. I honestly don’t remember if I used spray polyurethane or lacquer. It’s been about 12 years ago
Haha. I think unedited I spent between an hour and half and 2 hours. Not the most practical for the amount of rust on this gun...but plausible I think for small areas. Thanks for the comment!
I have used a stainless steel scrubber along with Rem oil to take off rust, I haven't seen all your post on youtube but I will try to watch them thanks, Dan
I try different things in each video just to see what happens. Someone suggested a Big 45 Frontier scrubber that I have on the way...I think it is a stainless scrubber.... Thanks for commenting!
Pennies were British. The original U.S. Cent was pure copper from 1793 through 1857, then an 88% copper, 12% nickel alloy through mid 1864 before changing to bronze which was used through mid 1982. Cents from mid 1982 to present are copper plated zinc. The alloy used for U.S. Dimes and Quarter Dollars changed in 1965 from 90% silver, 10% copper to the copper nickel 'clad composition' still in use. Half Dollars were also last minted (for circulation) of 90% silver in 1964, then changed to a 'silver clad' composition with net 40% silver content for 1965 through 1970 before changing again to the 'copper nickel clad' in 1971. The five cent 'Nickel' is composed of the same 75% copper, 25% nickel alloy used on the outer layers of the 'copper nickel clad' coinage and has been since 1866 (with exception of 35% silver issues of WW2). The alloy was first used for the Three Cent 'Nickel' of 1865 - 89. A silver Half Dime had been issued from 1794 - 1873.
@@-oiiio-3993 I know we were always told that us if you wanted to get any good coins to pick 64 or earlier. Manly they were talking about silver though. Thanks for the insight!!!
@@edarnold1426 Indeed. It's 1964 and prior for 90% silver dime through half. As many people are unaware that the halves of 1965 through 70 are 40% silver they can still be found in bank rolls. 'Wheat Back' cents were 1958 and earlier.
Yes, if you scrunch up the tinfoil and dip it in coca cola ,the coke nulifies the rust and the tinfoil takes off the rust. I renovate old motor bikes and use this technique to great affect. Glad to help.
Aluminum is too hard. Bikers use it on chrome, which is much harder than the gun steel. And the Phosphoric Acid in Coke?Gun bluing is a thin layer of oxide aka rust! Acid baths are not good for bluing.
Once you have your gun stripped down, get a piece of 4 inch PVC drain pipe and a cap. Get 3 gallons of white vinegar. Slide your gun down into the PVC with the cap on the floor and the tube standing up. Let it soak for 24 hours. When you pull it out and wipe it down there will be no rust. Wipe it down, dry it off, get your gun oil out and lube the parts that need it, and put it back together.I found an old gun in a barn. it was in a small bucket which had been sitting full of water for at least a few years. The gun had heavy rust. The old man next door told me about this trick, and I thought he was missing me. It worked like a charm. (The gun was heavily pitted and was never going to be a shooter again)I did the same thing with old rusty tools. Put a bolt in a bucket of water and leave it there for a couple of weeks. Try this little trick for yourself.
I think the pvc trick is a great idea for a vessel to put the barrel in BUT I caution against vinegar as it removes blueing. See my next video coming soon where I learned that lesson!
I think it would be too smooth to use the side but you might could flatten the end and use the flattened edge to “scrape”.... might have to try that on Part 4
I looked into this and stand corrected! Now if we can just find out who put that blasted “p” on pneumatic and “h” in thyme we’d be good! Thanks for the comment..
Thanks for commenting! I did check out his channel and could learn a lot. I liked the first vid I watched where he said “there are a hundred ways to do this, this is just what works for me”.
Playlist for all of my rusted gun videos:
m.ua-cam.com/play/PLAFGYcN5DezKTv4uyI973BOgyPd3aVOsb.html
Cool idea, finish with some Nevr-Dull, and you are set!
I’ll have to look into that!
Clenzoil is the best thing I've found for removing and preventing rust. I use it on all my firearms, especially my black powder arms.
Thanks for trying out and using STA-BIL CLP!
Absolutely! Surprise results with a great product! Thanks for watching!
@@onthejline9328 We are glad to hear that and you're welcome!
Deff should sponsor a vid Stabil
a piece of pure copper sheet will work and can be shaped for comfort to hold. Available at craft and hobby shops.
Someone else commented about those....I’ll have to go to Hobby Lobby and check them out!
Like to see how you done your stock. Looks amazing
I Enjoyed the VIDEO. I have used the scotch green pads they work pretty well.
Thanks for the comment! Be sure to check to catch my other videos, in my latest one I use the blue scotch brite pad
Restoring a Remington Targetmaster 41! im gonna blue the barrel tomorrow! sanded the stock tonight and oiled it slightly. already looks 20x better than it did when i bought it
Awesome! This was a learning experience for me and it’s worth doing it yourself
Try Gibb’s Oil…it’s the best…just hard to find. I bought a case of it off the Web, because I like it that much…and so do my kids and friends!
I’ll check into that! Thanks!
Some craft stores sell copper, and brass about the thickness of copy machine paper, copper works great, never tried the brass, but you can bend the sheet to form and shape
That’s awesome! I’ll check into that!
Interesting video....however, I remain sceptical to this method. It seem like scraping off the rustflakes while the copper is soft enough not to scratch up the blued surface too much.
Looking at Mark Novak's channel, a gunsmith dedicated to restoring old military firearms, he always boil, or steam the rusted firearm to transform the rust into black oxide, and then use a carding wheel to very gently polish the crusty surface after boiling to a very nice finsish. This preserve what original bluing i still on the gun.
I also want to try the boiling method. I will check out his channel. My main intent was to remove the rust and prevent further rusting. I intend to do more videos experimenting with re-bluing Thanks for the comment!
I recently purchased a 1901 Winchester lever action 10 gauge. It has a 3 inch strip of light rust on the barrel,but scared to ruin the old patina finish.
I would suggest a Carding wheel. I have had good results with removing rust from firearms.
Thanks for the comment! I have a gun that I want to try boiling and carding on but I haven’t gotten the necessary supplies yet, nor I have researched it enough to make sure I don’t screw it up! Lol
I have used Barolo pad with small amount of mystery oil with lard and transmission fluid and clean dry and use emery cloth
Try lime a way turbo foam works on tools saves on elbow grease thanks 4 your info
Thanks for the tip!
I've got an old Stevens model 66-b. Rust isn't quite the problem yours was but the knob on the bolt handle is loosing the chrome and I really don't know what to do about it other than love it for what it is. It's Grandpa's old rifle. Possibly from the 30's!
That’s what was going on with mine....I plan to revisit it in another video and work on the chrome and polish the bolt. I had to look the 66b up...looks like a cool gun. They don’t make them like that anymore! That’s what I love about mine is the heavy barrel! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
@@onthejline9328 it's what having a channel is all about, building community and helping each other. Looks like the penny did a great job, seems like a great idea! I have used tin foil and oil to shine up some chrome just not in an application as ours. However tin or aluminum foil absolutely helps just in lesser application. Maybe bumpers and grill with light scratches and light damage!
Try aluminium foil and water. It eats rust and then just dry the surfaces once the rust has been removed.😮
Nice video. Help me understand why you are using the penny on the non blued parts. The point of the penny is for the preservation of the blue. Just use flitz with a buffer pad on a dremel on the bolt and trigger. It had no blue to save.
Thanks for the comment! Basically at the point I made that video I knew very little about what I was doing and was just trying different things. Since I was testing the penny I just used it on everything. I still don’t know much...but have learned a lot through trying the videos. I ask my viewers to keep in mind this isn’t a “how to” video, but instead a “I’m going to try this....tell me what you think” video. Again thanks for commenting! I’ve never tried flitz but do plan to go back with a dremel and polish a few of my bolts
A cheap stainless steel fork from Walmart and any lube oil to soften up rust ,3in1 has the cleanest dispenser
And 0000 steel wool works great as well as it's too soft to scratch the bluing off.
Thanks for commenting! I’ll be using 0000 in some upcoming videos! Be sure to check out the other rust removal vids on my channel..
I would think that the true copper scrubber would work better than the copper penny. There is a limited amount of contact surface with the penny as apposed to the copper scrubber. Depending on the composition of the scrubber the penny might actually be a little harder for tougher jobs.
Yes the pure scrubber is much more effective and user friendly! The penny was just testing an idea and seeing if it could be done! ...Thanks for commenting!
I use a copper wire brush on old steel refurb. The copper pot scrubbers are sometimes steel with copper plating. Pre 82 Pennies are actually bronze.
Yes you have to be careful with the scrubbers to get pure copper
Pre 1982 copper composition pennies are not bronze. There is no tin in the penny.
Bronze is actually 88% copper and 12% tin with some variation depending on how hard you need your bronze to be.
Pre 1982 copper pennies are 95% copper and 5% zinc which makes them a very poor substitute for brass which is 66% copper and 34% zinc. There are a lot of variations of brass harder or softer, none of the variations come close to the composition of a pre 1982 copper penny.
So penny copper is just that penny copper.
@@thinkfirst6431 the book says they are bronze
@@66bigbuds From the US mint:
"Copper coins, such as the penny, started as pure copper, but rising copper prices led to changes in composition. In 1857, the Mint added nickel to the copper, but switched to tin and zinc in 1864. For the year 1943, pennies became zinc-coated steel because copper was essential to the war effort during World War II. But the Mint also struck a limited number of copper pennies. In 1962 tin was eliminated, and in 1982 the penny became primarily zinc with only 2.5% copper."
There is no zinc in bronze, there is no tin in brass.
Bronze is still about 88% copper and about 12% tin. Brass is about 66% copper and about 34% zinc. Up until 1962 a penny was nether bronze or brass but a mixture of 95% copper and 5% of tin and or zinc whatever was cheapest at the time, the tin and or zinc just made the penny a little harder so that they would wear longer. Between 1963 and the end of the "copper" penny, the US mint actually calls them Cents which is the correct name for them, the composition was 95% copper and 5% zinc which was at a stretch a crappy brass and actually just a copper alloy with some zinc in to make it harder as tin got more expensive than zinc.
The "book" what ever it is is wrong by classifying pennies as bronze, it would also be wrong if it classified pennies as brass.
You can pour milk into coffee it still doesn't make it a latte it just makes it coffee with milk in it. Bronze is a very specific material, brass is a very specific material. Copper pennies made between 1864 and 1982 are neither bronze or brass.
Seems like using something like a penny( even though it is copper)that is not just flat but has high an low surfaces on it would tend to take the surface of unevenly.
The penny actually wore down until it was relatively smooth before I finished.
That stock turned out great do you have a video on it !!??
I do not...that was years ago before I started UA-cam.....but I have a couple I want to do and will be doing those videos
@@onthejline9328 Ok I’ll wait for it I’m now a subscriber so….🖖🏻
@@setdown2 awesome! Be sure to check out my other videos!
I've been doing that for years. I thought every gun man knew it. Older the better.Marvel Mystery Oil is better.
Nice job
Thanks!
Pre 1981.
1980 and down is copper.
Number 2 lead pencil does good
I will try the vinegar trick on some tools,what about rust electrical transaction using battery charger + - leads
Thanks for commenting! I think vinegar on tools would work great...I have a cast iron cauldron I will be using vinegar on in an upcoming video BUT vinegar will remove blueing so be careful around firearms
thx for vid, if there is that much rust on the bolt, won't there be similar on inside of barrel? this is patient work, the penny allows more pressure so maybe quicker than copper pad or brass brush. i've not tried the boiling/carding method of your other commenters, but this gives a workable, inexpensive method, keep up the vids
Thank you I really appreciate that.. the rust on the bolt was mostly limited to the small area covering the chamber, and on the knob. The area on the knob has been there since I bought the gun. So far the inside of the barrels are clear and free. The first thing I did once discovering they had rust on them was use a cleaning kit with the wire brushes and run the inside of the barrel and oil them. I sprayed the outsides with Rem Oil and stored them until I could work with each one individually. A process that I’m still working on. Thanks for commenting!
Good job.
Thank you and thanks for the sub!
I'd stick with the copper scrubber and a little white mineral oil mixed with kerosene or mineral spirits to provide lubricity to the surface
Like the mineral oil in the pharmacy section? What does the kerosene/mineral spirits do? Thanks for commenting!
@@onthejline9328 Mineral oil Laxative. Its the same oil packaged and sold by Remington, Hoppes, and used in sewing machines and food equipment. Gun oils are industrial oils like spindle (Mobil Velocite No6) or steam turbine oils (Shell T32.) The mix is what is sold as WD40. You can confirm by looking up the CAS numbers listed in the Materias Safety Data Sheet. It penetrates to the metal surface (water displacing) and suspends the rust particles so they don't abrade the good bluing.
I would guess you could use a piece of soft copper pipe if one Doesn't have a pre-1980 penny.
Copper pipe is almost 100% copper so it would be softer than the copper pennies. More like the copper scrubbers. A suitable length of copper pipe would be easier to hold on to and could be shaped on the end to fit more contours.
I would not have the patience to use that little penny. Got to give you props for that 👏
Not sure which one was better of the 3 scrubbing items but wow did the penny get it off the trigger or what? I think both oils did absolutely nothing removing the rust. Going to have to go with the safari on that.
Birchwood Casey rust remover will remove the rust and the bluing for sure!
Thanks for watching all three! I tend to agree with the oils. I think they mostly just aid in reducing friction (like wet sanding) but I think the safari was actually helping to “cut” the rust. Hey as far as patience is concerned that’s why I did the video! For people interested in seeing it but may not have the time to do it Oh by the way the penny was a pain to use after my hands got oily, i kept dropping it!
@@onthejline9328 haha I bet! The penny would have put me in a nut house. They were interesting glad I seen them all also.
Try an actual (British, 1970 or prior) Penny.
They are bronze just as the pre - 1982 U.S. Cent (changed mid '82 to copper plated zinc) but about the diameter of a U.S. Half Dollar.
@@-oiiio-3993 oh that would have helped a lot being bigger! I will have to see if I can find one..
Try a US Large Cent
Marvel mystery oil or it mixed with kerosene works well .
Do you know what the purpose of the kerosene is?
Richard Tice , if the gun is rusty it hasnt got any blueing to take off, please think.
I have that same exact 22 rifle.
It’s a dandy! They don’t make them like that anymore. I will say that when I refinished the stock that black paint on the end was a beast to do! It was hard to get it compatible with the clear finish on the rest of the stock
@@onthejline9328 , actually my mom, who loved wood refinishing, did that black end cap almost 50 years ago and did the whole stock, used Birchwood Casey tru-oil. Still looks and shoots great! I had a gunsmith mount the basis for a scope around the same time. I was just shooting it about a month ago!
@@SuperLou63 I want mine drilled for a scope base. My eyes ain’t 20-20 anymore. Lol. I honestly don’t remember if I used spray polyurethane or lacquer. It’s been about 12 years ago
Curious to know how long THIS method actually took you.
Haha. I think unedited I spent between an hour and half and 2 hours. Not the most practical for the amount of rust on this gun...but plausible I think for small areas. Thanks for the comment!
Looked like that penny worked well...
Thanks!
wear some protective gloves! what is that chemical compound?
More please!
The 30-06 video is coming soon!
I have used a stainless steel scrubber along with Rem oil to take off rust, I haven't seen all your post on youtube but I will try to watch them thanks, Dan
I try different things in each video just to see what happens. Someone suggested a Big 45 Frontier scrubber that I have on the way...I think it is a stainless scrubber....
Thanks for commenting!
I think 1964 was when coins changed. Pennies could have changed later though.
Pennies were British.
The original U.S. Cent was pure copper from 1793 through 1857, then an 88% copper, 12% nickel alloy through mid 1864 before changing to bronze which was used through mid 1982. Cents from mid 1982 to present are copper plated zinc.
The alloy used for U.S. Dimes and Quarter Dollars changed in 1965 from 90% silver, 10% copper to the copper nickel 'clad composition' still in use. Half Dollars were also last minted (for circulation) of 90% silver in 1964, then changed to a 'silver clad' composition with net 40% silver content for 1965 through 1970 before changing again to the 'copper nickel clad' in 1971.
The five cent 'Nickel' is composed of the same 75% copper, 25% nickel alloy used on the outer layers of the 'copper nickel clad' coinage and has been since 1866 (with exception of 35% silver issues of WW2). The alloy was first used for the Three Cent 'Nickel' of 1865 - 89. A silver Half Dime had been issued from 1794 - 1873.
@@-oiiio-3993 I know we were always told that us if you wanted to get any good coins to pick 64 or earlier. Manly they were talking about silver though.
Thanks for the insight!!!
@@edarnold1426 Indeed.
It's 1964 and prior for 90% silver dime through half.
As many people are unaware that the halves of 1965 through 70 are 40% silver they can still be found in bank rolls.
'Wheat Back' cents were 1958 and earlier.
@@-oiiio-3993 I've got a bunch of wheaties. I never get rid of them.
Thanks for the video. Please wear gloves when you’re handling these solvents and oils!
Thanks for commenting! Yes in my later videos I started wearing gloves more!
Use Blue Wonder
000 Steel Wool works better.
Try using tinfoil ,this is used a lot by bikers because it is softer on the metal and does not dig into it.
Will definitely have to try this!
Yes, if you scrunch up the tinfoil and dip it in coca cola ,the coke nulifies the rust and the tinfoil takes off the rust. I renovate old motor bikes and use this technique to great affect. Glad to help.
Aluminum is too hard. Bikers use it on chrome, which is much harder than the gun steel. And the Phosphoric Acid in Coke?Gun bluing is a thin layer of oxide aka rust! Acid baths are not good for bluing.
Do not use aluminum foil on bluing .It's to harsh an will take the bluing off
@@richardtrice9807 do you think this would work on the bolt knob? I think it’s stainless...
Once you have your gun stripped down, get a piece of 4 inch PVC drain pipe and a cap. Get 3 gallons of white vinegar. Slide your gun down into the PVC with the cap on the floor and the tube standing up. Let it soak for 24 hours. When you pull it out and wipe it down there will be no rust. Wipe it down, dry it off, get your gun oil out and lube the parts that need it, and put it back together.I found an old gun in a barn. it was in a small bucket which had been sitting full of water for at least a few years. The gun had heavy rust. The old man next door told me about this trick, and I thought he was missing me. It worked like a charm. (The gun was heavily pitted and was never going to be a shooter again)I did the same thing with old rusty tools. Put a bolt in a bucket of water and leave it there for a couple of weeks. Try this little trick for yourself.
I think the pvc trick is a great idea for a vessel to put the barrel in BUT I caution against vinegar as it removes blueing. See my next video coming soon where I learned that lesson!
Thanks for commenting!!
Has anyone tried apple cider vinegar or ketchup on rust?
I would judge this as a fail
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Not all pennies are copper copper pennies are 1982 and older
Thanks for commenting. I address that in the video
I wonder how a piece of copper pipe would work?
I think it would be too smooth to use the side but you might could flatten the end and use the flattened edge to “scrape”.... might have to try that on Part 4
Use a nickel.
000 steal wool than cold blue.
Hopps? Ain’t that what they put in beer? Surely they wouldn’t have put an E on the end of Hoppes if they hadn’t meant for you to say it!😂
I looked into this and stand corrected! Now if we can just find out who put that blasted “p” on pneumatic and “h” in thyme we’d be good! Thanks for the comment..
Hoppes # 9
Wow. Please don't do this.... ever....
Look up Mark Novak here on UA-cam.
Boiling and carding is the correct method.
Thanks for commenting! I did check out his channel and could learn a lot. I liked the first vid I watched where he said “there are a hundred ways to do this, this is just what works for me”.