1 year old video and your video is still helping people!! I had looked at my fuses and they looked good. I was at a stuck place after I looked at a few other things. Found this video and after watching I went back and looked at my fuses!! This time I check with a meter. BAD FUSE. Thanks for the video!!!!!
Great! I was shocked when I looked at it and then did the same thing and it was a defective fuse. This is an over $10k mower so it should have been perfect. Thanks for commenting
That’s great insight! I haven’t had this problem but I’ll know to check this out as part of a diagnosis. I love the No BS old school video that actually helps people and not mining for subscribers. Thanks again, you have a new subscriber!
Thank you 😊 I learned from working flat rate as a dealership tech years ago not to over complicate diagnosis or it would cost me money/time. Thanks for commenting and subscribing. I’ve got another video about another issue I’ve had with this mower I’ll post eventually. Have a great week
Always test fuses! A lot of times they can be open at the connection point and still appear good visually. It’s only after much trial and error you go back with a meter and find a simple blow fuse that looked good in the beginning!
Yes I agree. I started out looking online due to the trouble code but instead of grabbing my test light or multimeter I used my eyes (which aren’t the best anymore) Thought the very small fuse looked odd but the element wasn’t burnt or darkened at all so I put it back. This was a first for me to have one actually broken but not from over amperage
I agree I have never seen one break like yours did. The old glass fuses were known for sometimes melting the element just slightly past the end cap, then appearing ok visually. The new plastic fuses definitely do that a lot, tricking you when you still see the “V”.
@@pauldiesel4582 I’m sure they’re made very cheaply nowadays. I remember as a kid thinking everything seemed to be made in Japan but a lot was still made in the US. Now not so sadly
I was referring to old school diagnostics, meaning look for the easiest fix first. I learned that over 30 years ago and it helped me a ton as line tech and in Nascar.
@@technicaltrucking8704 a lot of diagnostics in Nascar. And yes error codes. I assume you didn’t realize Cup Series engines switched to fuel injection 10 years ago.
I have to say it to where people will understand. I’ve got 35 years asking customers questions and they almost always say “it won’t crank”. To me that’s the proper way of saying it won’t turn over, but 9 times out of 10 they mean it won’t start. The engine doesn’t engage, the starter engages the flywheel. Thanks for the input
Fuse kit --> amzn.to/3tvyxrQ
1 year old video and your video is still helping people!! I had looked at my fuses and they looked good. I was at a stuck place after I looked at a few other things. Found this video and after watching I went back and looked at my fuses!! This time I check with a meter. BAD FUSE.
Thanks for the video!!!!!
Great! I was shocked when I looked at it and then did the same thing and it was a defective fuse. This is an over $10k mower so it should have been perfect. Thanks for commenting
That’s great insight! I haven’t had this problem but I’ll know to check this out as part of a diagnosis. I love the No BS old school video that actually helps people and not mining for subscribers. Thanks again, you have a new subscriber!
Thank you 😊 I learned from working flat rate as a dealership tech years ago not to over complicate diagnosis or it would cost me money/time. Thanks for commenting and subscribing. I’ve got another video about another issue I’ve had with this mower I’ll post eventually. Have a great week
Thank you. Seems to have done the trick.
Always test fuses! A lot of times they can be open at the connection point and still appear good visually. It’s only after much trial and error you go back with a meter and find a simple blow fuse that looked good in the beginning!
Yes I agree. I started out looking online due to the trouble code but instead of grabbing my test light or multimeter I used my eyes (which aren’t the best anymore) Thought the very small fuse looked odd but the element wasn’t burnt or darkened at all so I put it back. This was a first for me to have one actually broken but not from over amperage
I agree I have never seen one break like yours did. The old glass fuses were known for sometimes melting the element just slightly past the end cap, then appearing ok visually. The new plastic fuses definitely do that a lot, tricking you when you still see the “V”.
@@pauldiesel4582 I’m sure they’re made very cheaply nowadays. I remember as a kid thinking everything seemed to be made in Japan but a lot was still made in the US. Now not so sadly
Very Good!... #9✝ {5-13-2022}
old school way of doing things are; air, spark, compression, fuel. not fuses.
I was referring to old school diagnostics, meaning look for the easiest fix first. I learned that over 30 years ago and it helped me a ton as line tech and in Nascar.
@@dhammiam a lot of error codes in nascar? lol
@@technicaltrucking8704 a lot of diagnostics in Nascar. And yes error codes. I assume you didn’t realize Cup Series engines switched to fuel injection 10 years ago.
I’d say he realized the fuel pump wasn’t running. So no fuel. That led him to the fuel pump fuse. 🤔
And he found the fuel problem which was a fuse
Problem with those 'horseshoe' fuses is they don't like vibration and can crack the loop.
True. These things sure do vibrate. It actually seems better to have the fuse in a floating state vs tied to the engine I suppose
Engine will not engage. Not Engine won't start.
I have to say it to where people will understand. I’ve got 35 years asking customers questions and they almost always say “it won’t crank”. To me that’s the proper way of saying it won’t turn over, but 9 times out of 10 they mean it won’t start. The engine doesn’t engage, the starter engages the flywheel. Thanks for the input