Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link): amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first): 12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes: -Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp -Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator: us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7 -AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around: amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p -Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 10% off code: diysolar -Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA: watts247.com/?wpam_id=3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Contact Information: I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers: Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
1956 model and I said just yesterday - when I do pass I want to be the very best version of me that I could have been (bc we're all coming back again - and that's evolution). bless you Will
Nice to see young poeple like you, Knowing what it is about and able to explain in a properly speeded and well expressed language..... Congratulation and success to you...
Another top quality presentation. Will, you are the finest teacher I've had in my long life. Thank you for your efforts and dedication to those of us who call you a treasure.
Thanks for this video Will, I have the exact East/West use scenario you illustrated. I recently ordered and received the Watts247 combiner and am glad you pointed out where to connect the East and West pairs to take full advantage of the two blocking diodes. I mistakenly assumed there was a blocking diode on each of the 4 inputs. I’ll update my wiring now as you instructed.
I’m an electrical engineer, and with this video you’ve shown you know your stuff. You speak a different language than I would at work so it took me a while to come around after watching a number of your videos. Thanks for the great tutorials. They’ve saved me a ton of research when designing the solar system for my van build!
blocking diodes are good for combining batteries of different charge levels. Also important for wind systems so the batteries don't drive the wind generator as a motor
LOL "back in the olden days" gee i thought that was just a couple days ago time flies when you get older Thanks Will you made my day better with a chuckle I can remember the first time i saw a thermostat on a wall (1970) no more shoveling coal in the winter or when i saw my first color tv (1965)
it did; especially here in Europe; Tv quality in the States was always poor, it just could not compare; @@drinkinslimyes, i have knows both ( 20 years in the US); of course i prefered the US system; why? better, MUCH richer programming, and (paid..) cable tv with no commercials at the time.
I was beginning to wonder, if my charge controller was faulty, and allowing power to back feed to the panels, One morning my system was dead, when I disconnected the battery, the voltage slowly rebounded, but when I reconnected, it began to lose voltage. Even with the inverter turn off. Is there a way to test?
Hello Will, Blocking diodes provide one other function: fault tolerance. If a panel in a parallel array experiences a short circuit, only the current from that failed panel will flow into the fault. Without blocking diodes, the current from the entire parallel-connected array will flow to the fault. I install Schottky diodes in series with every parallel panel. the loss is miniscule. This is especially important with "flexible" (bendable) panels that are constructed of flammable materials or may have flammable materials nearby. This has been an issue with the sailing community where fires have been started when "flexible" panels are placed on top of fabrics (Biminis, etc.) and constant flexing fatigues the internal cell interconnects.
excellent comment !: i am using “bonus” flex panel on the roof when anchoring (stored inside during sailing). within a month i’ve exchanged in warranty 2 flex panel showing melted area before to realyze that i’’ve forgotten the blocking diode on the bus bar for the line going to these flex panel....well the shop never complained and did apologyze for a potential Bad batch of flex panel......The panel mentionned “diode integrated in junction box” and i just made the confusion btw blocking and bypass diode. Nevertheless it seems that this “fault protection” is not really needed on hard panel.
Been watching your channel for around 3 months. If you can't explain something simply you don't know it enough. You sir know your onions 👍 keep them coming. I'm watching and have no solar and live in the UK where its raining constantly 😂
Hello Will, I've been listening to your for a several years now, and DUDE are a GREAT TEACHER. your pace and pronunciation is TOP NOTCH. especially for a younger person. It seems many seem to speed talk, and put RIGHT! at the end of each sentance. thank you for all you info. this one struck me as i'm getting ready to put panels on a roof with 2 different facing arrays, 1 S 1 W I did get your booklet a couple years ago and will be studying it prior to full hook up. I have the Blueettie AC 300 & 2 B 300's and haaven't used in 2 years. thanks again Robert
Will - thank you for sharing your expertise with the Solar community. I've learned so much from your technical videos. Would you consider making a video on proper grounding techniques: like reference grounds, earth grounds, and grounding solar panels and batteries?
Great video Will, I designed a simple combination box using a couple of suitable circuit breakers and 2 diodes on a heat sink. This is to combine two pv strings on different sides of the roof.
Had to watch this over 5x to get it and referencing to other online sources. Very useful when you have solar panel on semi truck. I have it on the hood, roof and sides. Thanks, man.
Excellent timing Will! Today, I just ordered a ‘4-way combiner box’, for my solar arrays. One on the east-side, the other on the west-side of my tractor barn. This very question was bugging me! I will give you an ‘update’, as I propose to try this combiner, with and without the blocking diodes. P.S. - I’m using the MDK 55A(50Amp), diode pack.
Very clear explanation of bypass and blocking diodes with excellent references to actual installations of panels in series and parallel. Good job, mate!
Will, it's great to see you putting out more videos after you took a hiatus from making them regularly. Having the studio/shop space you have is envious to many of us who are subscribers. Enjoy the fruits of your efforts!
I'm planning to put up a small solar system on my garage roof, so keep all this advice coming! I'm planning on making it grid-tied, with a sunny boy inverter.
Nice presentation. 100% agreement with your description of bypass diodes. I would add that the bypass diode also prevents a reverse bias breakdown of the photovoltaic diodes. Which prevents panel fires. 99% agreement on the blocking diodes. Areas of agreement. Don't need them on a single string. Needed them with older charge controllers, not needed on new controllers. Small power loss. Parallel panels facing the same direction not needed. Except I would expect a limit where fusing would be needed. Solf Disagreement with needed on east west roof configurations. I haven't gone thorough analysis yet. So far there does not appear to be a safety issue, there maybe a performance loss. I need to think about this more. Scattered light will create enough volts to prevent current going into the panel. I do agree with the use of multiple charge controllers instead, for maximum power harvesting. One item left off, was blocking diodes prevents electric defrosting of solar panels. This technique uses backfeeding the panels with a constant current source power supply. This method not needed in the Southwest. I have not considered safety issues from rare events yet. Cars backing into trailer mount systems. I need to do more thinking for parallel configurations. Overall positive nod of my head.
An excellent and IMPORTANT explanation about solar panel configuration and how shading affects panels. Not so much a problem in big sky states like Arizona, but essential when driving around New England where trees line the roadways and are allowed to canopy creating a "tunnel" through the trees.
WOW @ that part 1:15 about it dropping to 16 volts. I dont have any of those watt meters but I suspected thats what my panels were doing. Thanks for confirming that.
I did not know the bi-pass worked in series connected panels as well I thought it was only for within the single panel itself. I thought if one series panel gets shaded the whole set sees lower performance... hence I normally wire in parallel... You taught me something knew today thanks man!
Realizing the SunPower A390 panels I purchased will need to have their microinverters removed to function properly in my off grid motorhome project. Will be installing bypass diodes
Hey Will- talking about bypass diodes. I did some testing to see what it takes for the diodes to turn on and found that when that when that loaded string of (shaded) cells output voltage drops to just less than .8 volts the diode turns on and allows current to fully bypass that that string of cells. The output of that panel or string of cells becomes zero but at least it allows current to continue to flow through the series circuit.
Have you ever investigated micro inverters? I.e. on panel inverters. I suspect they would require changes to charge controllers etc. But supposed to optimise around shaded panels and reduce wiring cost (a single 120vac buss from the roof). Really like to hear your thoughts
Excellent explanation. I always wondered about the purpose of the diodes on solar panels. I suppose I should look to purchase extra diodes for my solar panels in the event of an EMP surge.
Back in the Olden Days -- LOL I used to teach classes to military and civilian computer tech personnel from several countries; some of the computer equipment, like card punches and readers used vacuum tubes. That was the "Olden Days." :-)
Most helpful as always. Being a real novice this stuff gets a little confusing. Your explanations educate and clarify and keep it fun. I've noticed that the new Harbor Freight 100 Watt monocrystalline solar panel advises to NOT use the panels in Series.....ganged Parallel is fine though...I am confused by that.
Good job Will enjoyed your lifestream keep making your opinions public as much as you can, just remember a the majority of your subscribers respect you and your opinions though we may not agree with you that it's always nice to hear the other side of an issue.
Thank you for your teaching, I really appreciate your teaching skills, I also love follow every of your teaching on electrical and solar works, thanks 👍
Anyone notice the optical illusion when looking at the solar panel? Where all the cells meet in the corner, there is a diamond shape. I think it is the solder track. Anyway, if you stare at them, the white diamond turns black, but only in your peripheral vision. You can't look directly at one, you are always chasing the black diamond. Good videos...
Note that some blocking diodes on the market use 45V Schottky diodes. That means you should use one per panel in series. I personally would switch to a silicon diode with 3 panels or more in series.
At first I was going to mount my two 180W panels in landscape orientation so I can get away with smaller tilting brackets. However given what I learned about the behavior of the cell arrangement, and the fact I have winter shading from a tree trunk (vertical cylinder), I'll go with portrait orientation for better power out when shaded.
Great explanation Will. I prefer separate charge controllers on each array. I have never needed a multi string combiner box for this reason. Now I have considered adding an array pointed to the west but it would be on a separate CC as well. I like the way you teach . Great job!
At 2:52 the diagram for blocking diode is an example how NOT to use them. The panels should have been in parallel. Internally the panel should also have bypass diodes for each cell to avoid hot spot damage due to reverse bias current when a panel is partially shaded. A panel with 144cells that's wired internally as 72s2p also should have internal blocking diodes in series with the 72s before internally connecting the two cell strings in parralel.
I actually removed the 10A rated diodes from my two 50 Watt panels (in series). That alone got me from 55 Volts to 70 Volts(2 x 36v). The shading is only relevant at certain hours of the day and is already low efficiency. Mine are stacked on top of each other in portret mode and I discovered that panning them on the Y-axis (horizontal angle to the sun like a door) produces a lot more also. It seems that some panels have difficulty absorbing direct sunlight shining exactly straight on them making them hotter reducing voltage, that is what I discovered.
This was a very good course on diodes that covers most of the questions I've personally been asked on the matter of diodes. In addition though, could you address what happens when a diode goes bad, what would be the results to a solar panel and a solar array system if a bypass diode or a blocking diode failed and how to test for that? (failed in each case; open or closed state)
When looking at the solar panel at minute 1:00, can you notice the optical illusion created when you see at the white-colored diamond shapes that join 4 solar cells? They seem to have a dark hole in between but suddenly disappear when you focus on just one or when you see the other diamond shapes it happens! Has anyone noticed the optical illusion? Awesome!
After testing for extended periods of time at a 'shade problem' location I have found the parallel consistently out performs the series setup, the bypass diodes may help a series setup but they are not as good, it would be interesting to see the exact efficiency losses for those diodes. I have found the bypass diodes are only about 80-85% as effective as a parallel setup in problematic location setups.
Diodes have a voltage drop, and therefore they emit heat. I’ve heard that these hotspots caused by the bypass diodes taking current can shorten the life of these panels. Given that the strings can have 30 amps passing through them, then it stands to reason that the diodes need to be rated to dissipate 15 Watts of heat assuming a 0.5 Volt drop. That’s a fair bit of heat for such a small surface area on the diode.
I've often wondered in your setups how you have so many different ground solar arrays, in varying types of panels and voltages, how you keep your voltages from being limited by eachother. Now that you've mentioned using a separate MPPT per array, that all makes sense.
Will. Now that you have basically explained everything a solar system has and how it works in 10 different ways. Would you please make a series or playlist on how to check for common faults and problems. It would be nice to teach people how and what to look for when having problems.
Fantastic explanation! If I buy a combiner box that doesn’t have blocking diodes but has the positive output of each fuse wired directly to a buss bar, could I just insert a blocking diode on each wire before they get to the buss bar?
I like to always use bypass diodes, as you said, to avoid the back flow of electricity from a panel to the other (panels have great resistance to electricity, and it will be loss as heat). But also, while this should not happen with good controllers, cheap chinese controllers may allow the backflow of electricity from the battery to the panel(s). This is very easy to check, because it will produce a considerable loss in battery voltage during the night.
@@Teknopottu I bet ghostwriter6699 is being humorous. In his last live video, Will said some people thought he was being cruel to his cat. They were mistaken.
Thank you for your crystal clear information will. Can this blocking diode combiner box used for combining pvs to gain higher total output voltage more than the PV Max System Voltage...? For example getting a total of 300v dc for inverter with voltage rated between 120-450vdc, from a solar panel with max sys voltage @100v Thank you.
Thank you for your awesome explanations. I’ve learned so much from you! Our off grid systems are better having watched so many of your videos. I’m trying to replace one of my systems battery bank with a lipo bank that I will build. Still learning!
WILL- I live in S. Central Alaska. Here, in the summer, the sun circles the sky. The sun doesn't travel from east to west in a line like it does in the lower 48. It actually scribes an arc of about 200 degrees of the sky, rising in the far N-NE. And then setting in the far N-NW. I know in the lower 48, trackers don't make much sense to buy. But here, a tracker can pay for itself in a short time. Can you go over the need to know concepts involved in choosing and setting up a tracker? Perhaps suggest a few models?
A question on car charging. What would be an appropriate size for cell and battery bank to charge a car fast. I presume a 480V battery bank to be able to push high currents without going through a converter. The voltages becomes more dangerous, but the system safety should go up as the batteries are pushed less per unit.
Hi, thank you for your video. I have 3 serial string to connect them in paralel. Each string as own direction or in different places. Can I block each string with a diode, connected in serie in the own wire in the string box? Thanks
I reuse shottky double diodes, they look like transistors, from computer power supplies as blocking diodes, since I do parallel connections of multiple strings with different angles and different solar panels into my grid tied inverter with limiter. It has max 90 volt input, so only 2 panels put in series each string.
I'm not "old" and i remember wanting to make a diy ev when people were still using 2k lbs of lead acid batteries and brushed motors. Tech moves fast! Solar is moving very fast, i'm thrilled by that. Computers and whatnot? Not too much. I just want to get more done with the equipment i have, while being able to keep it fairly simple.
It doesn't seem like solar has been out all that long, so it's funny hearing him say "in the olden days", LOL. On that note, I saw a re-run of Knight Rider where one of the cars in a race was powered by solar panels on its roof. Not feasible in the 80's and not feasible now, LOL. Ah, the olden days. :)
So, more of a question, than comment to help me clarify: The Big Shed will have two different angles (E & W) and could utilize a joiner box with 2 Blocking Diodes where a 3rd Blocking Diode will be used for the back, south facing only, shed. Then transfer its combined voltage to a single MPPT Solar Charge Controller, or can I connect all 3 strings to the one MPPT instead of a Combiner Box?
I didn't know some panels have bypass diodes built into the panel. I don't think mine do as the MC4 connectors come off different boxes off the back of the panel. I may need to add external bypass diodes for my setup.
Thanks Will, very nice and informative video, I bought some used solar panels. Its produces votage but no current, what could be the problem. I reversed the polarity, no reading, which means diodes are good. I will appreciate your help. Thanks
I have an East-West array configuration with two Victron MPPT's which I have connected to a Victron Smartshunt using VE Smart Connect BT network. However I can't see them on the VRM Portal. The Smartshunt is connected to the Cerbo GX with a VE Direct cable but it would seem that VRM won't pickup up devices that are networked to the Smartshunt. I've run out of VE Direct ports so was wondering whether a VE Direct to USB cable would work... so I can see both MPPT controllers on the VRM Portal. Thanks for the great videos.
Excellent explanation. I am familiar with water pipes. Bypass is the same in water open all times just like an overflow pipe so water will flow at any direction. The blocking diode is like the backflow prevention. It only allows for one direction. What are thoughts on combiner boxes with solar system with sun trackers (with the assumption of the system in two different sides on the east and west side)?
very interesting, would it generate more power with the east-west roof arrays to take a feed off each side seperately with two controllers and then combine the output to the battery bank?
Thanks! Very interesting to hear about these aspects that I had no idea existed! I suspect my PWM is allowing current from the battery to go out to my single solar panel on my boat, as I read a low voltage (4-5V) when connected despite totally covered and turned upside down. Maybe a diode would be helpful there.
Dear Will, you mentioned using separate charge controller for East and West facing panels. I assume then that the outputs of the two charge controller may be joined together in parallel going to your battery banks. Right?
So I have multiple solar panels all over my bus mainly because of my hatches, so I have one large one on the roof one on each side & one large one at the back window! They are all mounted on the inside of the bus except the roof one! So I have to make sure that no cell is shaded ! Now I get that I should have one MPPT charge controller for each panel so that when the sun is on the opposite side it won’t draw on the battery????? 👍 Cheers
Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com
Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com
Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link):
amzn.to/2Aj4dX4
If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):
12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html
Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html
Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html
Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html
DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html
Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes:
-Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp
-Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels:
www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator:
us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7
-AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around:
amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out:
richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out:
shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p
-Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals
bit.ly/2mIxSqt
10% off code: diysolar
-Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA:
watts247.com/?wpam_id=3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Contact Information:
I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com
Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
I know this is an older video but what do you do if you're using an all-in-one like an EG4 or GroWatt? You can't use multiple charge controllers...
Thanks Will for the Diode Clarification , I'm 60+ and still Learning.
Best we never stop learning. There a always interesting things.
darn whipper snappers
Me too he's my go to guy for learning solar storage.
1956 model and I said just yesterday - when I do pass I want to be the very best version of me that I could have been (bc we're all coming back again - and that's evolution). bless you Will
@@imm2mthankgod616 I know huh? Darn whipper snapper!
I'm familiar with Bypass Diodes but this is the 1st time i hear about Blocking Diodes, Thx Will *Thumbs up*
Nice to see young poeple like you, Knowing what it is about and able to explain in a properly speeded and well expressed language..... Congratulation and success to you...
I m Pakistani , engineer. I m very much impressed with your explanation of diode and its parameters uses
It's so relaxing listening to someone that is always telling the truth. Even if it is about solar equipment. Thanks for keeping it real.
Another top quality presentation. Will, you are the finest teacher I've had in my long life. Thank you for your efforts and dedication to those of us who call you a treasure.
He is a good teacher I spent about $7,000 on solar.
Thanks for this video Will, I have the exact East/West use scenario you illustrated. I recently ordered and received the Watts247 combiner and am glad you pointed out where to connect the East and West pairs to take full advantage of the two blocking diodes. I mistakenly assumed there was a blocking diode on each of the 4 inputs. I’ll update my wiring now as you instructed.
Glad you are going to have the full, safe and proper use of your equipment Nathan. Thanks to Will for this video.
I’m an electrical engineer, and with this video you’ve shown you know your stuff.
You speak a different language than I would at work so it took me a while to come around after watching a number of your videos.
Thanks for the great tutorials. They’ve saved me a ton of research when designing the solar system for my van build!
blocking diodes are good for combining batteries of different charge levels. Also important for wind systems so the batteries don't drive the wind generator as a motor
LOL "back in the olden days" gee i thought that was just a couple days ago time flies when you get older Thanks Will you made my day better with a chuckle I can remember the first time i saw a thermostat on a wall (1970) no more shoveling coal in the winter or when i saw my first color tv (1965)
Wow, I didn't see my first color tv until the 70's. I was a little kid and I was like, "Wow, everything looks so REAL!" :)
it did; especially here in Europe; Tv quality in the States was always poor, it just could not compare; @@drinkinslimyes, i have knows both ( 20 years in the US); of course i prefered the US system; why? better, MUCH richer programming, and (paid..) cable tv with no commercials at the time.
Very well done. I'm running 6.5 KW of PV off grid....and this was my first introduction to bypass diodes. Thank you
I was beginning to wonder, if my charge controller was faulty, and allowing power to back feed to the panels, One morning my system was dead, when I disconnected the battery, the voltage slowly rebounded, but when I reconnected, it began to lose voltage. Even with the inverter turn off. Is there a way to test?
Hello Will,
Blocking diodes provide one other function: fault tolerance. If a panel in a parallel array experiences a short circuit, only the current from that failed panel will flow into the fault. Without blocking diodes, the current from the entire parallel-connected array will flow to the fault. I install Schottky diodes in series with every parallel panel. the loss is miniscule.
This is especially important with "flexible" (bendable) panels that are constructed of flammable materials or may have flammable materials nearby. This has been an issue with the sailing community where fires have been started when "flexible" panels are placed on top of fabrics (Biminis, etc.) and constant flexing fatigues the internal cell interconnects.
excellent comment !: i am using “bonus” flex panel on the roof when anchoring (stored inside during sailing). within a month i’ve exchanged in warranty 2 flex panel showing melted area before to realyze that i’’ve forgotten the blocking diode on the bus bar for the line going to these flex panel....well the shop never complained and did apologyze for a potential Bad batch of flex panel......The panel mentionned “diode integrated in junction box” and i just made the confusion btw blocking and bypass diode. Nevertheless it seems that this “fault protection” is not really needed on hard panel.
Been watching your channel for around 3 months. If you can't explain something simply you don't know it enough. You sir know your onions 👍 keep them coming. I'm watching and have no solar and live in the UK where its raining constantly 😂
That really cleared things up for me. I had been wondering about using diodes on my solar installation. Thanks Will!
Great explanation. I've been seeing more people confusing the two (or thinking they're the same thing) than not!
Hello Will, I've been listening to your for a several years now, and DUDE are a GREAT TEACHER. your pace and pronunciation is TOP NOTCH. especially for a younger person. It seems many seem to speed talk, and put RIGHT! at the end of each sentance. thank you for all you info. this one struck me as i'm getting ready to put panels on a roof with 2 different facing arrays, 1 S 1 W
I did get your booklet a couple years ago and will be studying it prior to full hook up. I have the Blueettie AC 300 & 2 B 300's and haaven't used in 2 years. thanks again Robert
Will - thank you for sharing your expertise with the Solar community. I've learned so much from your technical videos. Would you consider making a video on proper grounding techniques: like reference grounds, earth grounds, and grounding solar panels and batteries?
Great video Will, I designed a simple combination box using a couple of suitable circuit breakers and 2 diodes on a heat sink. This is to combine two pv strings on different sides of the roof.
Had to watch this over 5x to get it and referencing to other online sources. Very useful when you have solar panel on semi truck. I have it on the hood, roof and sides. Thanks, man.
Excellent timing Will! Today, I just ordered a ‘4-way combiner box’, for my solar arrays. One on the east-side, the other on the west-side of my tractor barn. This very question was bugging me! I will give you an ‘update’, as I propose to try this combiner, with and without the blocking diodes.
P.S. - I’m using the MDK 55A(50Amp), diode pack.
Very clear explanation of bypass and blocking diodes with excellent references to actual installations of panels in series and parallel. Good job, mate!
Will, it's great to see you putting out more videos after you took a hiatus from making them regularly. Having the studio/shop space you have is envious to many of us who are subscribers. Enjoy the fruits of your efforts!
Ya until he gets some new Curtains 🥰🥰
For just a few extra bucks you can get a second mppt for a separate array. I like that. Good explanation too.
I'm planning to put up a small solar system on my garage roof, so keep all this advice coming! I'm planning on making it grid-tied, with a sunny boy inverter.
I can't think of any questions, you've answered all of them. My life is complete now.
Thanks, hadn't thought that way, yet. Just conceived and began implementation of plans to add some blocking diodes to my array.
I just ordered forty 240w solar panels from santan solar today. Looking forward to starting my off grid living experience!
Nice presentation.
100% agreement with your description of bypass diodes. I would add that the bypass diode also prevents a reverse bias breakdown of the photovoltaic diodes. Which prevents panel fires.
99% agreement on the blocking diodes.
Areas of agreement.
Don't need them on a single string.
Needed them with older charge controllers, not needed on new controllers.
Small power loss.
Parallel panels facing the same direction not needed. Except I would expect a limit where fusing would be needed.
Solf Disagreement with needed on east west roof configurations. I haven't gone thorough analysis yet. So far there does not appear to be a safety issue, there maybe a performance loss. I need to think about this more. Scattered light will create enough volts to prevent current going into the panel.
I do agree with the use of multiple charge controllers instead, for maximum power harvesting.
One item left off, was blocking diodes prevents electric defrosting of solar panels. This technique uses backfeeding the panels with a constant current source power supply. This method not needed in the Southwest.
I have not considered safety issues from rare events yet. Cars backing into trailer mount systems. I need to do more thinking for parallel configurations.
Overall positive nod of my head.
An excellent and IMPORTANT explanation about solar panel configuration and how shading affects panels. Not so much a problem in big sky states like Arizona, but essential when driving around New England where trees line the roadways and are allowed to canopy creating a "tunnel" through the trees.
All of your teachers and instructors just HAVE to be incredibly, incredibly proud! And to them I say BRAVO! Nicely done. ;)
*teachers ;)
WOW @ that part 1:15 about it dropping to 16 volts. I dont have any of those watt meters but I suspected thats what my panels were doing. Thanks for confirming that.
bardzo dziękuję, świetny materiał. Jasno i prosto wyjaśnione. Dużo słońca życzę.
I did not know the bi-pass worked in series connected panels as well I thought it was only for within the single panel itself. I thought if one series panel gets shaded the whole set sees lower performance... hence I normally wire in parallel... You taught me something knew today thanks man!
Realizing the SunPower A390 panels I purchased will need to have their microinverters removed to function properly in my off grid motorhome project. Will be installing bypass diodes
Hey Will- talking about bypass diodes. I did some testing to see what it takes for the diodes to turn on and found that when that when that loaded string of (shaded) cells output voltage drops to just less than .8 volts the diode turns on and allows current to fully bypass that that string of cells. The output of that panel or string of cells becomes zero but at least it allows current to continue to flow through the series circuit.
Have you ever investigated micro inverters? I.e. on panel inverters. I suspect they would require changes to charge controllers etc. But supposed to optimise around shaded panels and reduce wiring cost (a single 120vac buss from the roof). Really like to hear your thoughts
Excellent explanation. I always wondered about the purpose of the diodes on solar panels. I suppose I should look to purchase extra diodes for my solar panels in the event of an EMP surge.
Back in the Olden Days -- LOL
I used to teach classes to military and civilian computer tech personnel from several countries; some of the computer equipment, like card punches and readers used vacuum tubes. That was the "Olden Days."
:-)
Most helpful as always. Being a real novice this stuff gets a little confusing. Your explanations educate and clarify and keep it fun. I've noticed that the new Harbor Freight 100 Watt monocrystalline solar panel advises to NOT use the panels in Series.....ganged Parallel is fine though...I am confused by that.
Good job Will
enjoyed your lifestream keep making your opinions public as much as you can, just remember a the majority of your subscribers respect you and your opinions though we may not agree with you that it's always nice to hear the other side of an issue.
A perfect level of explanation. Detailed but not 'running through the weeds'
The circuit diagrams made it very clear, thank you Will
As always a very well articulated explanation of the subject at hand.
Thank you for your teaching, I really appreciate your teaching skills, I also love follow every of your teaching on electrical and solar works, thanks 👍
Anyone notice the optical illusion when looking at the solar panel? Where all the cells meet in the corner, there is a diamond shape. I think it is the solder track. Anyway, if you stare at them, the white diamond turns black, but only in your peripheral vision. You can't look directly at one, you are always chasing the black diamond. Good videos...
Note that some blocking diodes on the market use 45V Schottky diodes. That means you should use one per panel in series. I personally would switch to a silicon diode with 3 panels or more in series.
At first I was going to mount my two 180W panels in landscape orientation so I can get away with smaller tilting brackets. However given what I learned about the behavior of the cell arrangement, and the fact I have winter shading from a tree trunk (vertical cylinder), I'll go with portrait orientation for better power out when shaded.
Thanks Will. You're truly a gifted teacher (among other things)!
Great explanation Will. I prefer separate charge controllers on each array. I have never needed a multi string combiner box for this reason. Now I have considered adding an array pointed to the west but it would be on a separate CC as well. I like the way you teach . Great job!
Done learnt me sumtin new today 😜. Seriously, another great explanation of basic circuits that everyone uses but no one ever really thinks about. 👍
At 2:52 the diagram for blocking diode is an example how NOT to use them. The panels should have been in parallel. Internally the panel should also have bypass diodes for each cell to avoid hot spot damage due to reverse bias current when a panel is partially shaded. A panel with 144cells that's wired internally as 72s2p also should have internal blocking diodes in series with the 72s before internally connecting the two cell strings in parralel.
I actually removed the 10A rated diodes from my two 50 Watt panels (in series). That alone got me from 55 Volts to 70 Volts(2 x 36v). The shading is only relevant at certain hours of the day and is already low efficiency. Mine are stacked on top of each other in portret mode and I discovered that panning them on the Y-axis (horizontal angle to the sun like a door) produces a lot more also. It seems that some panels have difficulty absorbing direct sunlight shining exactly straight on them making them hotter reducing voltage, that is what I discovered.
Thanks!
This was a very good course on diodes that covers most of the questions I've personally been asked on the matter of diodes. In addition though, could you address what happens when a diode goes bad, what would be the results to a solar panel and a solar array system if a bypass diode or a blocking diode failed and how to test for that? (failed in each case; open or closed state)
that is exactly what I came here to learn....didnt watch 'cause you pretty much are saying it isn't answered in this video
Good that you mention using multiple MPPTs instead of using blocking diodes as this maximises your output.
When looking at the solar panel at minute 1:00, can you notice the optical illusion created when you see at the white-colored diamond shapes that join 4 solar cells? They seem to have a dark hole in between but suddenly disappear when you focus on just one or when you see the other diamond shapes it happens! Has anyone noticed the optical illusion? Awesome!
Yeah that's true!
Thanks for the many tips and updates on solar equipment !
Clear, concise and accurate.
I love your work and clearly you enjoy it too, THANKS VERY MUCH.
FANTASTIC video! I learned two new things! And actually had questions about.THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
After testing for extended periods of time at a 'shade problem' location I have found the parallel consistently out performs the series setup, the bypass diodes may help a series setup but they are not as good, it would be interesting to see the exact efficiency losses for those diodes. I have found the bypass diodes are only about 80-85% as effective as a parallel setup in problematic location setups.
Great info.....that panel does that " which dot is black " illusion to my eyes😅
Sweet. My first video was replacing destroyed bypass diodes in a solar panel I was given. 👍🏼
Will, please consider making some videos on wind generation and adding a wind turbine to an existing solar system.
you are the best teacher ever
Diodes have a voltage drop, and therefore they emit heat. I’ve heard that these hotspots caused by the bypass diodes taking current can shorten the life of these panels. Given that the strings can have 30 amps passing through them, then it stands to reason that the diodes need to be rated to dissipate 15 Watts of heat assuming a 0.5 Volt drop. That’s a fair bit of heat for such a small surface area on the diode.
bardzo dziękuję, świetny materiał. Jasno prosto i obrazowo wyjaśnione. życzę dużo słońca.
Bro, excellent explanation.bro the way u describe is simple and nice.
👏👏👏
I've often wondered in your setups how you have so many different ground solar arrays, in varying types of panels and voltages, how you keep your voltages from being limited by eachother. Now that you've mentioned using a separate MPPT per array, that all makes sense.
Will. Now that you have basically explained everything a solar system has and how it works in 10 different ways. Would you please make a series or playlist on how to check for common faults and problems. It would be nice to teach people how and what to look for when having problems.
Smart idea
Clear explanation for solar panels. Good job.
I now a lot wiser! Thanks! 😎🏖🌴☀️🇦🇺
Fantastic explanation! If I buy a combiner box that doesn’t have blocking diodes but has the positive output of each fuse wired directly to a buss bar, could I just insert a blocking diode on each wire before they get to the buss bar?
Thanks for the explanation of the different types of diodes.
I like to always use bypass diodes, as you said, to avoid the back flow of electricity from a panel to the other (panels have great resistance to electricity, and it will be loss as heat). But also, while this should not happen with good controllers, cheap chinese controllers may allow the backflow of electricity from the battery to the panel(s). This is very easy to check, because it will produce a considerable loss in battery voltage during the night.
As always a great video and no animals were harmed in its making
What a confusing comment. But you are propably right.
@@Teknopottu I bet ghostwriter6699 is being humorous. In his last live video, Will said some people thought he was being cruel to his cat. They were mistaken.
@@ericvanderbogart2464 Oh, yeah! That's right. My bad :)
Thank you for your crystal clear information will. Can this blocking diode combiner box used for combining pvs to gain higher total output voltage more than the PV Max System Voltage...?
For example getting a total of 300v dc for inverter with voltage rated between 120-450vdc, from a solar panel with max sys voltage @100v
Thank you.
What is better if some of the panels are shaded? Micro inverters or bypass diodes?
Nice, informative video, though I didn't know the morning sun was from the West in Arizona :)
A very nice, straightforward explanation. 👍 from Wales U.K. 😀🏴.
Thank you for your awesome explanations. I’ve learned so much from you! Our off grid systems are better having watched so many of your videos. I’m trying to replace one of my systems battery bank with a lipo bank that I will build. Still learning!
WILL-
I live in S. Central Alaska. Here, in the summer, the sun circles the sky. The sun doesn't travel from east to west in a line like it does in the lower 48. It actually scribes an arc of about 200 degrees of the sky, rising in the far N-NE. And then setting in the far N-NW.
I know in the lower 48, trackers don't make much sense to buy. But here, a tracker can pay for itself in a short time.
Can you go over the need to know concepts involved in choosing and setting up a tracker? Perhaps suggest a few models?
A question on car charging. What would be an appropriate size for cell and battery bank to charge a car fast. I presume a 480V battery bank to be able to push high currents without going through a converter.
The voltages becomes more dangerous, but the system safety should go up as the batteries are pushed less per unit.
Hi, thank you for your video. I have 3 serial string to connect them in paralel. Each string as own direction or in different places. Can I block each string with a diode, connected in serie in the own wire in the string box? Thanks
I reuse shottky double diodes, they look like transistors, from computer power supplies as blocking diodes, since I do parallel connections of multiple strings with different angles and different solar panels into my grid tied inverter with limiter. It has max 90 volt input, so only 2 panels put in series each string.
"in the olden days" Haven't heard that statement in a while.
... the (g)olden days.."
I'm not "old" and i remember wanting to make a diy ev when people were still using 2k lbs of lead acid batteries and brushed motors. Tech moves fast! Solar is moving very fast, i'm thrilled by that. Computers and whatnot? Not too much. I just want to get more done with the equipment i have, while being able to keep it fairly simple.
And what about "shtring"?
It doesn't seem like solar has been out all that long, so it's funny hearing him say "in the olden days", LOL.
On that note, I saw a re-run of Knight Rider where one of the cars in a race was powered by solar panels on its roof. Not feasible in the 80's and not feasible now, LOL. Ah, the olden days. :)
Hope I live long enough to hear scornful remarks about ‘the olden days when the old folks took pictures of every meal’.
Thank you for the info, am always learning from you
So, more of a question, than comment to help me clarify: The Big Shed will have two different angles (E & W) and could utilize a joiner box with 2 Blocking Diodes where a 3rd Blocking Diode will be used for the back, south facing only, shed. Then transfer its combined voltage to a single MPPT Solar Charge Controller, or can I connect all 3 strings to the one MPPT instead of a Combiner Box?
very informative .... i like when you are explaining its very easy to understand
I didn't know some panels have bypass diodes built into the panel. I don't think mine do as the MC4 connectors come off different boxes off the back of the panel. I may need to add external bypass diodes for my setup.
Thanks Will, very nice and informative video, I bought some used solar panels. Its produces votage but no current, what could be the problem. I reversed the polarity, no reading, which means diodes are good. I will appreciate your help.
Thanks
You're actually pretty informative. Subscribed and thumb up.
I have an East-West array configuration with two Victron MPPT's which I have connected to a Victron Smartshunt using VE Smart Connect BT network. However I can't see them on the VRM Portal. The Smartshunt is connected to the Cerbo GX with a VE Direct cable but it would seem that VRM won't pickup up devices that are networked to the Smartshunt. I've run out of VE Direct ports so was wondering whether a VE Direct to USB cable would work... so I can see both MPPT controllers on the VRM Portal. Thanks for the great videos.
Excellent explanation. I am familiar with water pipes. Bypass is the same in water open all times just like an overflow pipe so water will flow at any direction. The blocking diode is like the backflow prevention. It only allows for one direction.
What are thoughts on combiner boxes with solar system with sun trackers (with the assumption of the system in two different sides on the east and west side)?
very interesting, would it generate more power with the east-west roof arrays to take a feed off each side seperately with two controllers and then combine the output to the battery bank?
Yes. If money is no problem.
Thanks! Very interesting to hear about these aspects that I had no idea existed!
I suspect my PWM is allowing current from the battery to go out to my single solar panel on my boat, as I read a low voltage (4-5V) when connected despite totally covered and turned upside down. Maybe a diode would be helpful there.
As usual, awesome tutorial 👏
Dear Will, you mentioned using separate charge controller for East and West facing panels. I assume then that the outputs of the two charge controller may be joined together in parallel going to your battery banks. Right?
Could you please do a video on the Li-BIM 225?
So I have multiple solar panels all over my bus mainly because of my hatches, so I have one large one on the roof one on each side & one large one at the back window! They are all mounted on the inside of the bus except the roof one! So I have to make sure that no cell is shaded ! Now I get that I should have one MPPT charge controller for each panel so that when the sun is on the opposite side it won’t draw on the battery????? 👍 Cheers