IR temp "LOW" range = -20C to 150C; "HIGH" range = +100C to +550C according to the sales literature. When using "AUTO", all temperatures are covered, but there is ~2 second lag to switch back and forth. The NCV is more sensitive at the upper left corner of the unit, not where the arrow is. The LIvE feature is activated with a second press of the NCV icon. The capacitance does indeed have a REL feature, as stated in the manual. You press the "-|(-" icon a second time and a Δ appears in the display. As for the temperature mode, you use a K type thermocouple with banana jacks (not provided), the top reading is reported for external probe while the bottom reading is internal sensor.
Thanks for the video! Do you think the logging function is fast enough to be used for motor inrush current measurement with a current clamp? Or just detect current spikes , when motor encounters a bump of sorts?
@@KerryWongBlog If you press the wrench below the graph, you will be able to select 0.5s, 1s, and 2s sampling [0.5s default]. There is also a "continuous" sampling option which only affects screen scrolling. The data has a store feature to internal memory same place as BMP screen captures. Click the floppy disc icon on the graph when stopped. It can be reviewed with the PC program, however it falsely smooths the curve. I prefer to import the ".VOM" file directly into Excel and make my own graphs and perform data analysis. It seems the data is instantaneous readings not interval average.
How is the MT13S Pro compare to this MT13S? I see nowhere showing a review on the Pro version except the higher price. You know why these series can't do current ready? Kerry Wong, well done.
There is a huge difference in displayed temperature on both meters. One shows 24*C (probably the correct value), the other 7*C. Is it bad calibration or faulty device? Or am I missing something?
That's because the emissivity settings. For some reason on the MT13S the default was set to 0.3 instead of 0.9. When I changed the emissivity the readings were comparable. You can see that in the still thermal images I took at the beginning of the video.
The problem is..... ****thermal cameras doesn't measure the temperature**** but measures the infrared radiation emitted by the framed objects: the infrared radiation emitted by an object depends by the object temperature and the emissivity of the object itself (different materials have different emissivities). Because a thermal camera cannot determine the emissivity of a material by itself, a thermal camera always display the picked-up infrared radiation as an image with false colors, but requires the user intervention to manually set the emissivity in order to calculate the correct temperature readings and failure to input the right emissivity can cause massive errors in temperature measurement..... this is a very common mistake that users do with thermal cameras (and infrared thermometers too). If the emissivity of a surface is unknown, you can either determine the emissivity by measuring the temperature of the surface with a reference thermometer (of course, not an infrared thermometer which have the same problem!!) and adjust the emissivity by trial and error until the measured temperature match with the temperature of the reference thermometer or stick some emissivity stickers in the points you need to check (emissivity stickers are just stickers with a calibrated and known emissivity that you can stick on the surface and you can frame with a thermal camera or an infrared thermometer in order to measure the temperature of the surface itself). Anyhow, this is why thermal cameras can also be used as night vision devices (even if the temperatures of the framed objects are the same, different materials with different emissivities translate to different infrared radiations, so different false color displayed by the thermal camera).
Be sure to use the cable that came with the device, or a [USB-C to USB-A] data cable (not just a charging cable). Go to settings > USB mode on the IR camera. Then plug the device. Should show up as a new folder "THERMAL" on the PC. If there is a problem, restart the device and try again. Still no connection? Turn over the USB plug at the device and repeat. There is PC software you can download, but you don't have to do so. The primary benefit is being able to read the temperature data in Celsius by pointing to the location on the image.
I have the same device and i know that the ammeter feature is a big miss... But TBH, i know that some other pocket sized DMMs lack of this feature. If you really need an ammeter you can buy an external shunt resistor or an external clamp adapter (or maybe buy another multimeter instead and use this one only as a thermal camera!)
C$169.85 on AliX stil to much. The Mustool version on BG is C$246.02! I have enough DMMs so a combo scope/thermal would make more sense for me. I can wait. So please keep your eye on them.
IR temp "LOW" range = -20C to 150C; "HIGH" range = +100C to +550C according to the sales literature. When using "AUTO", all temperatures are covered, but there is ~2 second lag to switch back and forth. The NCV is more sensitive at the upper left corner of the unit, not where the arrow is. The LIvE feature is activated with a second press of the NCV icon. The capacitance does indeed have a REL feature, as stated in the manual. You press the "-|(-" icon a second time and a Δ appears in the display. As for the temperature mode, you use a K type thermocouple with banana jacks (not provided), the top reading is reported for external probe while the bottom reading is internal sensor.
Thanks for the video!
Do you think the logging function is fast enough to be used for motor inrush current measurement with a current clamp? Or just detect current spikes , when motor encounters a bump of sorts?
No, it only logs at a rate of 1 sample per second. But the file is in text format so you can view it without the need of any special program.
@@KerryWongBlog If you press the wrench below the graph, you will be able to select 0.5s, 1s, and 2s sampling [0.5s default]. There is also a "continuous" sampling option which only affects screen scrolling. The data has a store feature to internal memory same place as BMP screen captures. Click the floppy disc icon on the graph when stopped. It can be reviewed with the PC program, however it falsely smooths the curve. I prefer to import the ".VOM" file directly into Excel and make my own graphs and perform data analysis. It seems the data is instantaneous readings not interval average.
amazing the tech in modern meters.
How is the MT13S Pro compare to this MT13S? I see nowhere showing a review on the Pro version except the higher price.
You know why these series can't do current ready? Kerry Wong, well done.
Pro has macro lens attatchment
There is a huge difference in displayed temperature on both meters. One shows 24*C (probably the correct value), the other 7*C. Is it bad calibration or faulty device? Or am I missing something?
That's because the emissivity settings. For some reason on the MT13S the default was set to 0.3 instead of 0.9. When I changed the emissivity the readings were comparable. You can see that in the still thermal images I took at the beginning of the video.
The problem is..... ****thermal cameras doesn't measure the temperature**** but measures the infrared radiation emitted by the framed objects:
the infrared radiation emitted by an object depends by the object temperature and the emissivity of the object itself (different materials have different emissivities).
Because a thermal camera cannot determine the emissivity of a material by itself, a thermal camera always display the picked-up infrared radiation as an image with false colors, but requires the user intervention to manually set the emissivity in order to calculate the correct temperature readings and failure to input the right emissivity can cause massive errors in temperature measurement..... this is a very common mistake that users do with thermal cameras (and infrared thermometers too).
If the emissivity of a surface is unknown, you can either determine the emissivity by measuring the temperature of the surface with a reference thermometer (of course, not an infrared thermometer which have the same problem!!) and adjust the emissivity by trial and error until the measured temperature match with the temperature of the reference thermometer or stick some emissivity stickers in the points you need to check (emissivity stickers are just stickers with a calibrated and known emissivity that you can stick on the surface and you can frame with a thermal camera or an infrared thermometer in order to measure the temperature of the surface itself).
Anyhow, this is why thermal cameras can also be used as night vision devices (even if the temperatures of the framed objects are the same, different materials with different emissivities translate to different infrared radiations, so different false color displayed by the thermal camera).
They just need to add a scope, then we have an electronics tricorder.
i have MUSTOOL MT13S and after 4 months stopped working sudenly. i cant turn on. Only one long beep and green light for few secods. :(
Can it measure heat on PCB better?
Is it possible to upgrade the firmware ( to fix some display issues, e. g.) and where can a new firmware file be downloaded?
In fact it can, i've asket the factory. You play-in the new firmware through the USB-C cable. At the moment, there's no new firmware available.
@jurgenkruger3932 Who is the manufacturer of this device? Can you provide a link to a support website?
Hi, is there any special way to connect via USB?
Mine - it has arrived a couple hours ago - is not connecting to my phone neither PC.
Be sure to use the cable that came with the device, or a [USB-C to USB-A] data cable (not just a charging cable). Go to settings > USB mode on the IR camera. Then plug the device. Should show up as a new folder "THERMAL" on the PC. If there is a problem, restart the device and try again. Still no connection? Turn over the USB plug at the device and repeat. There is PC software you can download, but you don't have to do so. The primary benefit is being able to read the temperature data in Celsius by pointing to the location on the image.
@@pault6533 Thank you, it works now :)
Mummi, I want one!
Is this a DMM without an ammeter??? Isn't that a rather big miss?
For repair reasons its not necessary, I think. Only for laboratory work. But then you need something better.
I have the same device and i know that the ammeter feature is a big miss...
But TBH, i know that some other pocket sized DMMs lack of this feature.
If you really need an ammeter you can buy an external shunt resistor or an external clamp adapter (or maybe buy another multimeter instead and use this one only as a thermal camera!)
This,s, Can the battery be recharged?
Yes, it can be recharged through USB-C cable. You can also exchange it, the battery cell is a standard.
C$169.85 on AliX stil to much. The Mustool version on BG is C$246.02! I have enough DMMs so a combo scope/thermal would make more sense for me. I can wait. So please keep your eye on them.
Mustool are trash most of the time (had meters/oscilloscope, microscopes etc)