@@otcmmodelling Thanks very much for replying to my comment. It's nice to see other people's work to get idea to improve my Channel. Take Care & Stay Safe.
My father was a time served carpenter all of his life and whilst he used hand tools I'm sure he wouldn't have scoffed at you with your electric saw and straight edge. The most important aspect is your approach to the job, not the tool that you're using. I'll bet that Dad would love to have had access to some of the modern power tools when he was out on a cold building site in the '60s. 🙂
When you made the curved sections, did you use the 6mm ply to get it to bend.... and as you said it was rather challenging to curve it, would you use a thinner play next time ? I was thinking I can get 3.5mm plywood and maybe use 2 layers with a large helping of epoxy resin and loads of clamps.... Your hindsight would be helpful.
Could this approach be used for building larger table style baseboards for4 oval type layouts? I am planning a baseboard build 2440mm x 1550mm (2440mm x 1220mm + 2440mm x 330mm). I want it to have legs and be as light as possible in case I need to move it in the house. Was thinking 12mm plywood on top and 90mm x 22mm timber for the framing but is it also possible to use ply like you have or inadvisable? I like the holes drilled for lightening the structure. You haven't covered things like legs for the baseboards or how you pinned the structure? I was always of the belief you should never pin into the edges of plywood only through the top as the ply delaminates. How do you avoid this?
Lol I am a professional so not forgiven lol But in all seriousness love the layout it's turn out well and even as a professional I still find that free hand is a skill to be had in itself nothing wrong with that
All ways intresting to see this early stage stuff . Having worked on a exobition club layout we had lots of experanced help ! Bace boards need to be very ridged no flexing when moving all right angel joints in the fraim had a 4" tryangel brace and at 2ft a center spine . as layouts travil and are put up put down the is a lot of handling so if they flex the joints work apart and track beds flex. every thing is screwed and glued no pinsas they pull apart . I was trying to see if you had locator pins Male to female when joining boardsto boards these as you may know are basicaly metal pins fixed into the wood at the ends these locat the boards exsacty to each other and you can line them up pria to fixing with bolts .... the are two problems with nuts and bolts (we have them) they are fiddley to do your always driopping washers or wing nuts, also the fread of the bolt will erode the wood of the hole like a small rasp and the joint becoms slack as the hole gets larger a few millameaters of play over track joins will effect running . so our ends had two braces spaced at the end to take a block of wood that had a 8" carrage bolt male to female fitting set up. this was easey to do and spreads the stress of the joint over the 8" bolt .we could nuge and move the hole lay out with out stressing the joints ...... We have a three section curved off seen this was a pain to transport and put up ! we were considering doing it as a set of straights cut to angels to form a hexsagnal curve . As I said just some coments from our experance not ment as a big critasizem of what your doing .
I used the coachbolt method... I don't take it apart so no "rasp" effect... but the problem I did encounter was steel bolts are a lot tougher than my C16 wood... It was okay, I got away with it... I was actually taught to avoid mixing in wood and metal because of these sort of problems .. So, should have known better.
Eye protection is always prudent when using power tools. Finished product looks good!
Just found and so catching up on this series, but thanks for sharing; will be so helpful.
Really enjoyed that buddy 👍🏻
Very nice video you put out there thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your kind comments!
@@otcmmodelling Thanks very much for replying to my comment. It's nice to see other people's work to get idea to improve my Channel. Take Care & Stay Safe.
Hi mate for a non carpenter you have done an excellent job very well put together
Cheers Mark
My father was a time served carpenter all of his life and whilst he used hand tools I'm sure he wouldn't have scoffed at you with your electric saw and straight edge. The most important aspect is your approach to the job, not the tool that you're using. I'll bet that Dad would love to have had access to some of the modern power tools when he was out on a cold building site in the '60s. 🙂
When you made the curved sections, did you use the 6mm ply to get it to bend.... and as you said it was rather challenging to curve it, would you use a thinner play next time ?
I was thinking I can get 3.5mm plywood and maybe use 2 layers with a large helping of epoxy resin and loads of clamps....
Your hindsight would be helpful.
Could this approach be used for building larger table style baseboards for4 oval type layouts? I am planning a baseboard build 2440mm x 1550mm (2440mm x 1220mm + 2440mm x 330mm). I want it to have legs and be as light as possible in case I need to move it in the house. Was thinking 12mm plywood on top and 90mm x 22mm timber for the framing but is it also possible to use ply like you have or inadvisable? I like the holes drilled for lightening the structure. You haven't covered things like legs for the baseboards or how you pinned the structure? I was always of the belief you should never pin into the edges of plywood only through the top as the ply delaminates. How do you avoid this?
what a blinding video first class
Lol I am a professional so not forgiven lol
But in all seriousness love the layout it's turn out well and even as a professional I still find that free hand is a skill to be had in itself nothing wrong with that
You could tape a nail to the other end of your radius stick
Could i ask your scenic boards what are the measurements of the back and front of the boards thanks
Front boards are 4ft long and roughly 21 inches deep (so they fit through the back gate flat!) while the rear boards are 6ft x 2ft
Is Oly helping you ?
All ways intresting to see this early stage stuff . Having worked on a exobition club layout we had lots of experanced help ! Bace boards need to be very ridged no flexing when moving all right angel joints in the fraim had a 4" tryangel brace and at 2ft a center spine . as layouts travil and are put up put down the is a lot of handling so if they flex the joints work apart and track beds flex. every thing is screwed and glued no pinsas they pull apart . I was trying to see if you had locator pins Male to female when joining boardsto boards these as you may know are basicaly metal pins fixed into the wood at the ends these locat the boards exsacty to each other and you can line them up pria to fixing with bolts .... the are two problems with nuts and bolts (we have them) they are fiddley to do your always driopping washers or wing nuts, also the fread of the bolt will erode the wood of the hole like a small rasp and the joint becoms slack as the hole gets larger a few millameaters of play over track joins will effect running . so our ends had two braces spaced at the end to take a block of wood that had a 8" carrage bolt male to female fitting set up. this was easey to do and spreads the stress of the joint over the 8" bolt .we could nuge and move the hole lay out with out stressing the joints ...... We have a three section curved off seen this was a pain to transport and put up ! we were considering doing it as a set of straights cut to angels to form a hexsagnal curve . As I said just some coments from our experance not ment as a big critasizem of what your doing .
I used the coachbolt method... I don't take it apart so no "rasp" effect... but the problem I did encounter was steel bolts are a lot tougher than my C16 wood... It was okay, I got away with it... I was actually taught to avoid mixing in wood and metal because of these sort of problems .. So, should have known better.
😑 𝕡𝐫ｏ𝕄ｏ𝔰𝓶