Never worked this bike - You're right those Air Box Bolts are the KEY to getting the shock out... I didn't touch Pre Load Rings because the rear wheel was off the ground so I moved the swing arm up a Tad and the shock came straight Up and Out. We installed Race Tech Springs Front .60kg/mm / Rear 7.6 kg/mm for a 155lb rider - Test Ride was a Blast... Thanks for the TIPS !!! Next Pay Day we'll install Race Techs Rear Shock Shaft assembly, it comes with Gold Valve, Hand adjustable Rebound Knob, and a Rebound Separator Nut on end of shaft.... The Fork we'll install Emulator Gold Valves - Oil Level set low to 7 inches for stiffer springs.
Makes a massive difference when bike is tuned to the rider. Mine is a bit stiff when it hasn't got the luggage loaded but still a big improvement over stock. Thanks for comments and watching.
The stories you hear about that upper chain roller being ripped off and tearing a giant hole into the frame is due to bigger guys bottoming out the stock suspension. No need to worry about it after the heavier spring and revalve.
In my xf650 I remove it from the bottom without touching the airbox. I just removed the rear bolt of the linkage, and move the linkage out of the way. It's worth a try on the DR too.
That is an alternative. But the bolts at the bottom are really tight, lots of washers and linkages and you are working underneath. The airbox is 3 x #8 + 1 x slotted circlip and its out . Whatever you believe is best for you 👍😀
G'day Sam, not sure what size C spanner. A few c spanners are adjustable. Measure the diameter of the nut and usually most will fit. In any event there isn't much room for a spanner when the shock is fitted. If you have the shock out its easier. The C spanner I had was probably from another motorcycle - maybe even a bicycle crank not I think about it! Thanks for watching.
Don’t need it..just tap the top nut to loosen and spin it up as shown. Then Just lift the rear a little and turn the spring by hand, the nut will move up along with it. Very easy.
Yes, I was thinking about that. I don’t really ride very dusty conditions so probably not urgent. I’m also thinking about a Safari tank and will get one when I swap over. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻😁
@@lifelongmotorcycling i just got one at a hardware store and cut the line to fit making sure to keep it away from the engine $12 and probably 5 minutes worth of your time is super worth it imo especially since the carb is very finicky but that might just be Canadian gas causing that
@@upperjohn117aka our gas is good with high octane levels and no ethanol. Biggest risk for us is dust in the tank due to our red dirt and dry conditions. I will add a filter at a later date so thanks for the prompt. I agree - 5 min job. 😁 I’m thinking about a Safari tank so I might add one then. 😁👍🏻
@@upperjohn117aka agree. 👍🏻 My 20 litre Acerbis gets about 390 km completely empty. Gives some range anxiety.😬 A clear Safari will be a great option for those longer ranges. Probably get closer to 600km. 🎉😁 Watch Skids and Stuff when he goes down south in Western Australia. Even with a Safari he runs on fumes on the way back 😳
Never worked this bike - You're right those Air Box Bolts are the KEY to getting the shock out... I didn't touch Pre Load Rings because the rear wheel was off the ground so I moved the swing arm up a Tad and the shock came straight Up and Out.
We installed Race Tech Springs Front .60kg/mm / Rear 7.6 kg/mm for a 155lb rider - Test Ride was a Blast... Thanks for the TIPS !!!
Next Pay Day we'll install Race Techs Rear Shock Shaft assembly, it comes with Gold Valve, Hand adjustable Rebound Knob, and a Rebound Separator Nut on end of shaft.... The Fork we'll install Emulator Gold Valves - Oil Level set low to 7 inches for stiffer springs.
Makes a massive difference when bike is tuned to the rider. Mine is a bit stiff when it hasn't got the luggage loaded but still a big improvement over stock. Thanks for comments and watching.
Thanks! Great tutorial for others who might tackle this project.
The stories you hear about that upper chain roller being ripped off and tearing a giant hole into the frame is due to bigger guys bottoming out the stock suspension. No need to worry about it after the heavier spring and revalve.
The pictures I have seen where it has ripped out has the frame corroded out. The key is to keep it lubricated/greased and free moving.
In my xf650 I remove it from the bottom without touching the airbox. I just removed the rear bolt of the linkage, and move the linkage out of the way. It's worth a try on the DR too.
That is an alternative. But the bolts at the bottom are really tight, lots of washers and linkages and you are working underneath.
The airbox is 3 x #8 + 1 x slotted circlip and its out .
Whatever you believe is best for you 👍😀
💪
Thanks
Helped me a lot
Thanks mate...appreciate the feedback.
What size c-spanner is recommended for the DR?
G'day Sam, not sure what size C spanner. A few c spanners are adjustable. Measure the diameter of the nut and usually most will fit. In any event there isn't much room for a spanner when the shock is fitted. If you have the shock out its easier. The C spanner I had was probably from another motorcycle - maybe even a bicycle crank not I think about it! Thanks for watching.
Don’t need it..just tap the top nut to loosen and spin it up as shown. Then Just lift the rear a little and turn the spring by hand, the nut will move up along with it. Very easy.
Awesome job though i do recommend putting a fuel filter on your bike the filters included in the bike are junk
Yes, I was thinking about that. I don’t really ride very dusty conditions so probably not urgent.
I’m also thinking about a Safari tank and will get one when I swap over.
Thanks for the comment 👍🏻😁
@@lifelongmotorcycling i just got one at a hardware store and cut the line to fit making sure to keep it away from the engine $12 and probably 5 minutes worth of your time is super worth it imo especially since the carb is very finicky but that might just be Canadian gas causing that
@@upperjohn117aka our gas is good with high octane levels and no ethanol. Biggest risk for us is dust in the tank due to our red dirt and dry conditions.
I will add a filter at a later date so thanks for the prompt. I agree - 5 min job. 😁
I’m thinking about a Safari tank so I might add one then. 😁👍🏻
@@lifelongmotorcycling definitely worth it to get the safari if you do adv riding
@@upperjohn117aka agree. 👍🏻
My 20 litre Acerbis gets about 390 km completely empty. Gives some range anxiety.😬
A clear Safari will be a great option for those longer ranges. Probably get closer to 600km. 🎉😁
Watch Skids and Stuff when he goes down south in Western Australia. Even with a Safari he runs on fumes on the way back 😳
🙏🏻 🌟 🙏
That job was far too easy! I have a foreboding about putting it back in! 😀
yes !! Understandable,
Much easier with some video examples ‼️