WHY does my Riding LAWNMOWER BELT keep coming off, getting DAMAGED? BAD BELT or SOMETHING ELSE?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 сер 2019
- Jeff's Little Engine Service checks and inspects a Craftsman Riding Lawnmower that the CUTTING DECK BELT keeps coming off and is getting DAMAGED , belt breaks. Is it just the cheap , faulty AFTERMARKET belt or is something else going on? Inspection, belt routing, pulley check , bearings test lawn mower Briggs and Stratton Kohler Tecumseh model engine horsepower
UPDATE 9/12/19 : IT WAS THE cheap ass aftermarket BELT. IT WAS CRAP!
Tutorial by Jeff's Little Engine Service
copyright 2019 Jeff's Little Engine Service
Donations help, thanks for watching!
Donations can be made by clicking on the link below
www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr...
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am showing you the least expensive, quickest "backyard" methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Thank you for watching!
Wet grass to tall binds the blades. Creates vibration and the belt can jump the pulley or break
Yes. However in this case it was a dried up defective belt
I've had the spindles tear up belts due to the lack of grease in the so-called "lifetime sealed bearings"! Cheap belts are always an issue! Great video..
I see E- Bay sells some for $8 . Tell me how those are good quality belts. Old stock is NOT good eather. Belts are like car tires. They have a shelf life and can dry rot.
First thing I heard when he was pulling belts off, NASTY sounding spindles.
Rebuilt my deck. New spindles and pulleys along with a Stens belt. Belt didn't even last a year, good thing I had saved the old OEM belt that was 8 years old and was able to finish mowing. Learned my lesson about cheap belts and am going to pay up for the best.
Good belts are darn expensive!
Thank you for your time and work and for everything else you did to make this free content available for us ❤
Thanks for watching friend!
BELT BRACKETS! That's exactly what I need to make! Thank you!
Some times customers think the machine can cut down any length of grass at full ground speed!
Duh!Of course, higher grass,slower ground speed.Give the machine a chance to work it's magic.
Excellent instruction exactly what my deck belt problem fix is. Thank you Jeff
Glad it helped
I tried several things to no avail. Then I noticed the keepers on the idlers were bent out slightly and fixed them as you described and that cured mu problem. Thanks!!
WAS WATCHING THIS VIDEO AND YOU WERE TAKING OFF THE PULLEY. I MADE A PULL BAR OUT OF THE PART OF THE WEED EATER THAT ATTACHES TO THE MOTOR. IT DOES GREAT. THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEOS
thanks friend for watching
These mowers throw off belt often. Sometimes a piece on the deck behind pulleys gets stuck . I found with mine the deck was lowered way down an the belt jumped off at the least uneven ground. My belt was cut from belt getting knocked off.
I bought a new Craftsman GT with a 22 hp Kohler in 1999, I killed 3 belts in the first summer. The problem is bad engineering, the belt ran at a very steep angle, like the mower in the video, and would jump off and tear it's self up. After two summers, this mower was sold! Just found your channel and I enjoy your content, keep the videos coming! Yes I subscribed.
thanks for watching uncle BS!
When you showed us all that grass buildup, I was expecting to see a mouse nest. I had this problem with my Craftsman GTS 5000. Replaced belt with a cheap (China?) belt. It also keep coming off. Installed a real OEM belt but that belt kept coming off at the same place in my yard where I make a 90-degree turn. Three times in a row. I figured that the deck was swaying enough that the belt could work loose. My solution was to park the mower in my garage and set the blade height that I use when cutting my grass, 3 inches. The wheels were nowhere close to the floor. I repositioned the wheels so that they were close but not touching the floor at the cutting height. I also replaced the tension spring to ensure that the belt would stay in tension. With these two steps, my belt has not come off. I guess that if I change the cut height I'll need to reposition the wheels. Another hard lesson learned. Unless YOU like learning a lesson the hard way, DO NOT remove those blade guards.
I just replaced my 2006 MTD PRO lawn tractor varidrive unit and both drive belts.
The varidrive sealed bearings seized and the tractor stopped after I heard a strange metal squeal.
The 15 year old long varidrive belt did not fail but had slices in the belt like the mower deck belt in your video.
I looked at the new belt I hav been using for about 6 1/2 acre lawn cuttings and see marks on the inside of the belt with green marks
2 things, the belt was old; I know you said that you just replaced it. Though it is dry rotted. Those mowers are made by MTD they use Kevlar belts originally, my replacement came from the auto parts store. The second thing is the gap as you said probably added to the destruction of the belt. With mine those keepers need to be properly positioned to keep the belt from jumping out, and getting cut from the idler and tension pulleys. Only replaced one belt on my MTD mower in 11 years. My first belt looked just like that one after 6 years of work out. That was how I found out the keepers had moved positions from debris hitting the belt pushing it out of normal postion.
A truly knolageable person. I said what you did almost word for word. I stay away from auto parts stores because many times, they have old dry rotted stock. Their warehouses are usually hot ass hadies in the summer and cold as a witches...in the winter. Belts dont like that. I got a belt once the cardboard cover was so dusty. I could feel the belt was dryed out. It was actually lighter than the belt I brought in. I told them It was old stock and refused to buy it. I went to the Ariens dealer and got a new belt. It WAS heavier and more supple than that dry rotted old auto parts belt.
Thanks for the tip man great job!
Thanks Bill
At 4:47 or so you are able to flip thouse belt keeper/retaining tabs with a finger! On my (Scotts) deck, the tabs are fixed in place and you couldn't move them a 32nd of an inch with your finger! I had to remove the IDLER PLLEY to get the old belt off (and the new one on).
I’ve had sharp rocks stuck in pulleys before, I checked every one now 😮
Mine pops off when I set the deck lower. The angle of the idler is looking sus now
I know alot of people put comments of knowing an guessing the issues . alot has to do with the pto . the bushing on the arm goes bad or the arm goes bad an has a lot of slack in it will make a belt jump off . also another issue with these mower pto arms they have the two way hook up system meaning the pto can be turn on with a rod or a cable ... usely you need to cut the back part of the arm off due to the fact the belt will get behind that part an rub until the belt ether breaks or burns up
Was it a 5/8's v belt and instead of the ome you tried a 1/2inch v? There's ur sign
My 2014 Simplicity 48” Fabricated Deck model is so special that the only keeper it has is the deck is one on the idler. It tosses belts almost exclusively when you engage the deck. OEM or aftermarket makes no difference and all the bearings are fine. It’s done this since not long after buying and it sucks. Like most I’ve seen I leave the covers off the outer pulleys just to put it back in easier .. the idler does seem to have the belt leaving it at a somewhat extreme angle going up to the drive pulley. I’ve had the arm off there and being something of a metal mangler myself i can see it’s at the angle they made it.
So any ideas I’ve not covered? I’m thinking about fabbing up a couple adjustable keepers for those outer pulleys. I always wondered how Deere seems to have them on all the pulleys while Simplicity gets away without them. Need
I found i had the same problem, but after some research i replaced the belt with one made of KEVLAR and it has been on the mower now for 5 years, hope this helps.
Note that "Kevlar" and "Aramid" are the same material with different branding.
I worked on one that chewed the belts up like this. I went to just change out the belt and noticed a plastic pulley that was chewed up and broken. I replaced the pulley and installed a new belt. I made sure the belt was on right. I drove it around in yard for awhile and everything seemed to be OK. The lady came and got her mower. A week later she brings it back. The belt all chewed up and that new plastic pulley looked like it had gotten really hot and broke apart. So I went and got another pulley and belt, I paid for it. I took the deck off and made sure all the pulleys and were spinning and everything was as it should be. I thought perhaps they were cutting really tall thick grass Or perhaps pulling a heavy cart. They said no but really who knows for sure. I had put new blades on but when I checked they were in rough shape. The belt never came off it could have been because of those belt keepers, not really sure. Then again the New belts could have been " New " old stock. Live and learn I guess.
always buy genuine parts, not the cheap aftermarket parts
Belt was old New stock on the shelf along time. I had the same problem
How do you stop belt from rubbing against steering? I am working on my mother in laws poulan pro riding mower. Left side rubs belt.
Not much on working on the decks , but between you and working on a few - I'm learning !
Cheap belts will last if no heavy load is put on them, but thick high grass or weeds will destroy them quickly 😊
Yes. But something was wrong with this belt . It was hard and brittle like it was all dried out.
Thanks for the video man.
Thanks for watching!
I rebuilt the deck on my john deere l130 with all new spindles and pulleys (oem) but used the 15 dollar ebay belt and it lasted 2 weeks,did that 2 or 3 times till i finally broke down and paid the 48 bucks for the johndeere oem replacement with kevlar,not had a problem since.
It looks like price makes a difference on belts
Live and learn.
Idler pulley sliced the belt when the belt slipped past the belt guard when deck was in lower position. Real common on MTD's too, especially with non-oem belts that are slightly longer than stock.
Definitely possible, However I still suspect the cheapo belt on this one since the entire belt had those weird breaks in it.
The angle is too severe when the deck is at the lowest position. very common on MTD's. You can see it fighting to try to come off the pulley even when not running. I've made c-shaped guards out of round bar to eliminate the problem, even on some higher priced older john Deere Decks, where the belt prices are crazy high. The evenness (distance between and depth) of the slits means the motor was at a constant rpm when it happened.
They do not fit the pulley sheave correctly. MTD belts are specific to the pulley. After market belts can sit too far into the sheave or sit too high. Eather way, it can cause problems. I usually just order Stens or OEM any more.
RC Hobbyist Extreme I also measure the belt width on aftermarket belts. A few 5/8 belts were actually in between 1/2 and 5/8 which will act like it’s too long and on a deck will never fully engage. Most people just measure the overall length but width and section dimensions play a big part too.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair I have to say, I learned this the hard way. I already knew this on Snowmobiles as I studied this and learned a lot concerning Belt sizes, shieves and how they affect performance and belt wear. I have seen belts explode on badly aligned secondary pulleys on Snowmobiles. They grenade destroying belly pans, belt guards and hoods. I had fits with a snow blower trying to figure out why it was binding up the Auger. The belt was jamming in the pulley too far and burning up the belt. That was my first experience with MTD and belt size variations. The belt came from a generic hose and belt shop. Lesson learned.
Get a Kevlar belt next time, it will last you at least 5 times longer (provided your pulleys are in good shape), I haven't used anything else on all my my equipment in the last 20 yrs. I used to replace my mower belt every year or so on my old wheel horse (60" deck hydrostatic drive , when I discovered Kevlar, which was new at the time, I was skeptical about paying a little more for a belt that didn't look much different, except it was green, but it was such a chore to replace that belt at least yearly, I opted to I try it. Five years later, I was sold for life, I mowed 2 1/2 acres with that old 76 Wheel horse 2-3 times a week in the prime of summer, now I have a zero turn Toro which cut my time in half with mowing & I've replaced the main belt with Kevlar, haven't had any issues in 10 yrs. The old wheel horse has been at our lake lot since (1 acre) then and I needed to replace the belt 2 years ago & have one in the shed, but it does the job anyway. Okay I'm ranting now, but I hope you get my point...
The owner could have at least blown or washed off the deck before bringing it over.
He was probably pissed just having paid for repair that failed
……. It’s a lawnmower
Most owners are simple minded.
Looks like a birds nest😂
Let's see how much grass we can accumulate before something goes terribly wrong 😂
very good job
I found that MTD has specific belt size as far as how it sits in the groove on the pulley. If you get a belt thst is NOT an MTD belt, it may ride too deep in the sheave and cause problems. I buy Kalvar belts for certain applications. It's clear to me that belt was old stock that sat in a hot warehouse for too long. Belts are much like car tires. They have a shelf life. Most people have no idea that belts and tires can dry rot over time. If the belt keeps are installed wrong , it can allow belts to slap or ride against a support bracket or blade brake arm. This over heats the belt and destroys it. One way to check is if the back of the belt is shiny and all the numbers are worn off the back of the belt. I have been working on small engines for 35 years. I was professionally trained by a certified Licenced small engine mechanic . I worked 5 years in his shop before doing my own thing. It's always been a second job as I worked for the schools but always have something to fix at my place. Had to sell my work shop.
Good tips. Yes, also cloth covered belts are often needed and are much different in use than common auto parts stores rubber belts
I found it is easier to remove the deck. After you do it a couple times, it is easy to do and only takes a few minutes. This allow easier access and you can lubricate and clean deck.
I removed the covers over those pulleys! They just allow grass clippings to get stuck inside them!
Great video Mr. Jeff 🙋👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
at 15:59 the belt alignment from drive pulley to the deck is horrible . That alone will severely shorten the life of a belt. Maybe time to adjust the deck height. it is clearly rubbing on belt bracket (just above the front of the deck).
My own Craftsman LT1000 from 2005 also has a poorly-engineered belt alignment from factory. So sad.
The best thing that guy could do is remove those plastic spindle guards and put them on the shelf. All decks seem to have the same problem. I took mine off as soon as I bought the tractor and the areas around my spindles stays clean and dry.
If people would just clean them out but I agree. They SHOULD be made to latch into place so they can be removed after each mowing and cleaned. I have found TREES growing on the deck of some mowers. Many have grass growing. I have to ask about poison ivy. I cannot be near the stuff. If a homeowner informs me he has it on his property, I have to be extra careful not to get into it.
Me to remove them threw in garbage.
@@scottfirman I have wondered about taking off the black plastic guard on my mower, but I don't see anything that would ensure the belt doesn't jump off the pully. A latch system would be fine, but I'll be looking for "butterfly bolts" or "wing-nuts" to replace the three holding the guard in place.
i love Stens belts usually as good as OEM.
Those are the only after market belt I trust. I go to a specialty shop that sells belts and high pressure hoses at wholesale prices so I get my belts at a very good discount. Most are Stens. I have been asking for the Kelvar type belts more and more lately. They cost a bit more but last a lot longer and actually compair in price to OEM but because I get them at Wholesale, I still get them cheap enough to make it worth it.
I know car tires have a DOT number that tells you when the the tire was made, I wonder if the same is true for belts?
Don't think so as far as I've seen and I usually get mine from an auto parts store when I'm in a hurry and I know some of theirs have been on the shelves for over 6 years or longer
the belt been sittin in the warehouse way tooo looog, the rubber has dryed out,
No its not a mower belt !!!
every time you bend that "tab" it gets weaker. You should loosen the bolt and work the belt in then tighten the bolt.
If I treated my mower right I would rarely have to replace my belt, not making my tabs weaker. 😀
All bearings should be free spinning with no noise. If not, replace. Never ever use cheap belts. They don't last.
before I even watch the video, I'd say, it's a bad pully or a bad bushing on the pulley. I've had that problem before and that is how I fixed mine.
it was a faulty belt this time, check it out
Belts are the curse of the mower owner. The aftermarket ones won't last as long as the factory OEM ones. It's a miserable job to change them, too.
That is definitely a bad belt been on shelf for couple years
I have an issue with my deck belt tension do believe it is a spring problem beats me how or were may be you my friend can shed som light on how I may rectifi this type of problem more on the problem it looks like my mtd deck wobbles when cutting so it is were i think a spring is missing i do not see were it may go once it is known
The belt may need to be replaced if the deck vibrates alot when cutting
The bolt is called a careridge bolt it's up to you if you want to get a air ratchet n plus depending how much thread is going to be below the pully you could use some grease on the bolt so next time you need to take it out it will be easier to get undone 😀😀😀
ok so after beating those heavy keepers back to wheel // how do u get the belt back ON ???????????
slip it through and rotate pulley at same time.
I am having the same problem my craftsman mower. Belt last like about 5 to 7 hours and then it looks exactly like that. Need help urgently
Check for a weak deck spring 😮
haha, 6 months, I wish I could get a belt to last 6 months. mine gets thrown within 6 hours of a new belt replacement. still searching for the problem 😮💨
The way I feel about after market belts is,all you're doing is throwing money away
With the tab on the pulley bent it may have gotten something in the pulley and cut the belt.
maybe possibly, I still suspect the cheapo belt
I thought it was usually those plastic spindle guards that causes this.
I hated my plastic spindle guards. All they did was collect grass hard to clean. I just removed them so I can clean it easy with the blower.
Around 3:05 when you pulled the belt off the second pulley and rotated it, sounded like bad bearings. Those should freewheel with very little effort and no noise. That belt is"cooked", was overheated by excess drag from bearings going bad. That will ruin any belt no matter who makes it. Put your new belt on, engage the mower for ten minutes, shut it off and check the temp of the belt and bearings, you'll find the problem real quick. We go to Napa and order the Police vehicle green belts, designed for excessive use and heat from idling all day to high speed chases, they're double the cost but well worth it
good comment, although I think it was the pulley brake rubbing when I turned it.
I agree with you about the temperature. How did you measure the temperature and what should it be?
@@outlet6989 if it's slightly warm to the touch then it's fine, the flexing of the belt around the pulleys will create a little heat, but the contact surface of the belt will almost burn you if there's excessive drag in the system. Then just remove the belt, turn each pulley by hand and you'll figure out which one is dragging.
my 30 inch troy built riding mower belt keeps getting damage 😢
Mine is taking chunks out of it in 3 days!! Wish I could post a pic
Did you ask the customer if they wanted oem or aftermarket belt? And if it was your choice would you charge them for this repair?
I only charged them the price difference for a new OEM quality belt, about $15.00. No labor charges
Ok
On MTD, I usually never give them a choice. It's my reputation on the line. I explain to them MTD is very specific as to their pulley design fitting the belt. An after Market belt is not designed to properly ride in the sheave like an OEM is. Once I explain that, no complaints.
@@scottfirman But he chose to use the cheaper belt the first time, not the customer. He did the right thing by only charging the customer the difference in the belt price and no labor for this fix. I'm impressed by his honesty and fairness to his customer.
That last spindle needs bearings p, and that machine deck is easy to remove and you can work on it a lot easier.
that belt damage is due to excessive heat, perfect example, how many belts will get fired till find the bad bearings
How many subs do you have? And good luck routing the belt with the deck off.
@@jackdub75 Great reasoning and thinking skills there. The amount of subs has zero to do with knowledge a person has.
Through experience of my own. It is far easier to put a belt on when the deck has been removed. The belt will route the same exact way, with the deck off or left on. Just more difficult to get at when left on. Pull the deck off, route the belt, slide it back under and hook the belt to the drive pulley under the engine.
Does anyone know why the deck belt ends up twisting , but never comes off the pulleys ????
it probably has a damaged/burned spot on it
@@JeffsLittleEngineService I've rebuilt the deck and new belt but the belt is tight but ends up twisting
Why didny you put the belt on while you had the belt retainers already loose?
cuz sometimes my brain dont work right
@@JeffsLittleEngineService 🤣
15:50 I see the issue , you put the belt upside down lol
Lol
Hilarious
with all the dead grass could between pulley and belt could EAT belt
I will add a further recommendation. Never engage the blades at more than half throttle, the sudden acceleration can burn up the belt and can destroy electric clutches.
When I was a small engine mechanic for a large landscape company I had to train all equipment operators on this fact. After that belt and clutch replacements went down 75%!
Most of the lawn and garden tractors I have owned will stall out when the deck is cold if you engage the deck with less than 3/4 to full throttle. Once everything is nice and warm you can engage the deck at almost idle and it won't stall the engine. Oddly, literally every owner's manual out there tells you to engage the mower deck at wide open throttle.
VERY good tip!
Amen
@Kamper Ken lol
They need the covers on to protect belt , with all the grass on deck it will keep jumping off
Seen the engine guard missing and causing this
you are right. But this belt was a bad belt. I have never seen one crack and be so brittle
My belts last longer now that I start the engine with the deck at it's highest level (#5) before engaging the belt and back up to #5 before disengaging and turning off the engine.
Good idea.
A few things I can tell right off the bat here First your grass on the deck is long so raise your deck and you need to slow down your mowing too fast and you may have bent that deck those pulleys don't looked lined up right to me anyway. To know for sure I would have to see & hear it run..
sometimes the belt angle from engine to deck looks funky but it is working great!
Yeah... bent deck? There is a new one.
Good Lord take the deck off, it's only a few coder pins
I'm too damn lazy to do that!
At 1:31 it sure looks as if the belt was wrapped around that pulley with the FLAT side IN and the V-SIDE OUT - ass backwards! The Pulleys have the V-groove and the IDLERS ar flat. The flat (outside) of a belt rides against the Idler(s) and the V-side of the belt faces and rides inside the v-groove of the spindle pullys.
it may have twisted when it cracked
I am not defending the cheap belt but I was hoping to hear how many hours and what kind of mowing this deck has done. Six months is not really an indication of how much wear to expect.
that's true..I knew it wasn't to extreme use. and I have never seen a belt self destruct quite like this one did
Tell the customer to blow the grass out from the deck after each use
If I had a dollar for every time I said that but STILL get that mower deck loaded down with grass, dirt , Weeds, sticks....yeah good luck. Many are repete customers ever season its the same. CLEAN YOUR DECK!
@@scottfirman hallaluya amen
I thought that was common sense.
Yeah aftermarket belts garbage plus I had a bad bearing & deck lever cable was stretched.
Buy mower belts not just a regular black rubber belt ,,there is a big difference !
Exactly!!
For me 6 months in the way that seems to be used or abused the mower ....is just a lot !!!
Jeff, this is Clickbait... Because where is the claw of the Velociraptor I see in the thumbnail? 🤔
I subscribed anyway, because I do also like small engines as well as medium-sized dinosaurs! 🦖 😉🏆🇬🇧⚒️
lol! Thanks for watching
What did you charge for this service
I only charged for the belt beacause it was a return
The bearings for the blade spindle sound terrible.
Knock wood I buy my belts from lowes or homedepot
Umm im just a homeowner mower guy, so my ? Is this, why not take the deck off? I have had ti take mine on and off several times this year in my efforts to keep a 21 year old rider working. Just makes time sense to drip the deck and quickly diagnose and repair the problem. Not an expert just asking.
Yep taking the deck off is probably a good thing to do to inspect everything. When this mower was in my shop 6 months prior, I did a full deck service and took it off the machine for full inspection. However, that seemed like more work for me to take it off this time around so I just performed this repair with it on. Thanks for watching!
Ok just wanted to know pro and cons, i have a hydrostatic trans that after it gets hot i lose power in both forward and riverse, is there any way i could bend your ear on how to trouble shoot my problem other then on here if your able or want to help. Its a peerless trans and i have had it off 2 times and the bypass doesnt work as well as the forward and back motion. Short of bying a rebuild i dont know what to do
You should had dropped the deck put anti seize on all them working parts
what does anti-seize do ?
@@dabneyoffermein595 keeps stuff from sticking
So you are confident it was a cheap produced belt. Which belts do you recommend?
Stens are very good belts. Kevlar green are great. But make sure your spindles turn easy
by hand. The spindle bearings need to be changed over the years. The grease cooks out
over time with the heat. Bearings are cheap to replace. If you replace them, take the seal
off and inspect the grease level. Make sure it is packed close to full. Years past, the American bearings were the best and they were packed, today it’s not the case. Hope this helps.
@@algorel4763 thanks for your knowledge on this.
Yes it said "proven part" on it. I also looked up the order info. from when I installed it 6 months prior. Pretty much anything made in USA and that was OEM on the machine is ok. Stens and Oregon do provide decent quality aftermarket parts I agree
Good tips Al!
The scalp wheels need properly adjusted.
Good tip. This particular issue was caused by a very old brittle belt
When you replaced the idler pulley and belt guide. You should have fitted the belt onto the pulley, so you didn't havebto bend the belt guide out, to fit the belt.
RIGHT - but removing that Idler Plly may demand a three-prong gear puller after an overnight soaking if it's an old mower deck. Best way to do it, though. And the sort of appraoch you expect a 'professional' would do. Bending a belt guide is a jury-rig approach.
You need to shorten your tensioning spring
Good tip but that wasn't the problem with this one.
Looks like poor alignment by design, bearings sounded like gravel, should have a Kevlar belt.
I have never seen a belt that was dry, brittle and cracking like this one.
prob an old belt that didnt get sold for years
Just like any other belt
This belt was definitely very old and brittle for it to crack like this.
just my 2 cents,,belt is wrong width for ur mower or u have way to much tension on it.by the wear on the inside means the belt is going all the way into the grooves on the pulleys and this causes the pulley to grab and hold the belt until it gets jerked out which causes the belt to break in segments.a wider belt or backing off the tension should solve the problem.
good tips! A crappy belt was the issue on this one.
Thick tall grass and belt slipped and burned
Normally I would say yes but this belt was old and brittle.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService humm, after only 6 months? Very poor craftsman
Listen to the spindles. The bearings are bad.
Yes the bearings will tell you when they are bad. This instance was a case of a cheap old brittle belt.
That’s the belt us in the worst shape I ever seen that thing is rotted all 2 pieces
poor deck alignment may be culprit
Kens small engines. He mentioned u several times on his live video Check him out Kens small engines. Live video every Sunday morning @8am eastern time
WHAT!!!??? hopefully he said nice things! lol thanks for letting me know
@@JeffsLittleEngineService I saw the same live feed, just the opposite actually he was going in on you
All belts are aftermarket belts. You just need to find where the mower manufacturer sourced their belts from. Or get a Gates or Stens belt which is probably better than OEM.
When the flat side of the belt touches, it is an idler not a pulley.
Heat kills belts. Slipping belts generate heat. Worn pulleys allow belts to slip.
it is Chinamade belt they use poor rubber and are good at make a product to look graet but my experiacnce with their product the are grap. Use a Kavilr belt and this will not happen.
belt rubber not good for temp that belt has to run at
good point, I think you are correct.
Jeff I can;t help it i just got say this ,if i can stop laughing, daaaa heee i think it would have been a hell lot easyer yo bend the belt keeper eeek take 5 mintues to remove that dam deck,I mean come on man, Im not going to KISS the dirt to repair any mower
1:27 I leave this stupid guard off so I can clean the grass off the deck after every cut. All that grass holding moisture will eventually rot your deck. Don’t be lazy, clean the grass off the deck and underside after every cut. This owner shouldn’t own a rider but instead should use a push mower.
Good tips! decks last much longer if they stay dry
keep ur deck clean blow it off after each use
good advice!