Mazda 3/axela bose audio amplifier repair part 2
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2021
- Come along for the follow up to part one which you can watch here
• Mazda 3/axela bose aud...
Tools I use -
Soldering
Quick 861DW hot air station
Duratech TS-1640 solder iron
Multimeter
RMM760D - can be found under many name badges
Microscope
Luzky Zoom 3.5 - 90x simul-focus single boom stand trinocular stereo microscope
Camera - Lucky Zoom HD 14MP
Oscilloscopes
Siglent SDS 1102CML 100MHz 2CH
Philips PM 3305 35MHz 2CH
Bench supply
Powertech MP-3086 0-30V 3A
TL866II PLUS universal EEPROM programmer
Thank you. Exactly the same problem.
Thank you very much for the diagnostic video. My Mazda3 GT had no sound when I bought it, and the problem turned out to be the DSP chip in the amp. I replaced it following your example. Works fine now. Honestly, I was expecting bad solder joints with the modern lead-free crap they're using, and it would have been much more difficult to troubleshoot without your video. Awesome!
Top video, great start to end finish, bravo, cheers for your effort.
Thanks, appreciate it!
It's a great feeling when you solder in a new component and it comes to life.
Well done! 😁
Especially when you're fighting unknowns , sometimes you have to call it and take the plunge!
@@JonnyFix Absolutely!
Pregunta necesaria si funcionó el amplificador en el auto.
Great video and good tutorial .
Saludos to Guatemala
I have one from a 2012 Cadillac CTS. You should do one of those! I’ve spent 10 hours trying to find the source of what is going on. It’s this or the BCM. (Possibly a short in the speaker lines)
Good information thanks
Nice Repair
Cheers mate!
Smashing :-D
It is reading the serial rom now, that's progress :-D
I have my fingers and toes crossed for you ha ha .
A copy of the serial rom content could be usefull for other ones.
Good point... why did I screw it shut!
@@JonnyFix I wasn't saying you had to take it off that particular one.
The next one could have a dead power amp chip.
Borrow the serial chip for a minute and you have the golden code ha ha :-D
Then "sods law" states that you will never need the code.
Good to have it though :-D.
Sweet 👍👍
Hey, I need your help because i have the same problem, but i live in Guatemala
hats off
Cheers!
So do you expect this is the regular failure point on these amps? I expect I can swap out the chip for mine (maybe) but I don't have a scope to diagnose.
Hard to know I don't see a lot of them. You might be able to see the reset line fluctuate with a regular multimeter altho the pulse was fast, 5ms every 60ms, maybe it would show as a blip on AC. Firstly watch part one at 4:50 and make sure you have voltage on all the yellow caps. I've found the regulator to the left of the 2 middle ones to have bad connection under it.
Hello i’ve got the same amp with a problem. I heard gun noises and the speakers stopped working. I was running music almost at its max. Do you think the amp is fixable?
Check if speakers/wiring are damaged (shorted voice coil etc). It's possible the amp ICs are damaged given the sounds you heard. Anything is fixable with enough money :)
Great job buddy John did you have to program that chip in anyway. Many thanks Tom
You don't need to program it
@JonnyFix thank you John 🙏
What was the number of the chipset that was bad? I have the same issue I am attempting to repair and need to find one to buy.
If you google the number on the chip you will see that it seems to be a DSP56374. Is it exactly the same issue with no data flow and a pulsing reset line because there are other failures I've seen that will cause no data.
Following your video I was able to repair my Infiniti 35 Bose amp. Very similar, also same DSP chipset. However I worked for 2 mins and it died again 😞
I wonder if it's the same problem or something caused by the repair. Maybe go over what you did in detail, make sure there's no solder bridging between pins etc. Hopefully your new chip was indeed new.
@@JonnyFix
So I went back and retouch the legs. No bridges, it plays! But intermittent. My gut tells me there is a short, cables maybe? It is a fx35 03 It's an old car I know.
@@Orphe123 Well that's good progress. Maybe check the speakers are ok, the cone moves smoothly without noise when you push on it, connections are good etc.
Question, is the audio into these amps at speaker level or line level, or a digital stream? I see a lot of conflicting info. The Head unit has speaker amps, but from what I see on the Amp board you have there, there is no speaker input load.
The CS42438 a/d - d/a codec (the chip I didn't replace) takes front and rear left and right from the head unit as a differential signal (1.1 - 3.9V), not a standard line level as such, although it can operate in 'single ended' mode if they wanted to. The DSP will then do some magic to split the bass etc and feed the respective outputs, back via the codecs d/a side from memory.
@@JonnyFix Interesting, so why does the head unit have power amp chips and huge heat sink. Now I am worried if my aftermarket new HU will work with the Bose when it arrives. I thought it must be something different as it's a shielded pair carrying the audio to the Bose. SO much conflicting info, some say its line level, some say speaker level, now you have added differential to the mix LOL. I saw on my scope only a little ripple and a DC offset on the Mazda HU. Any ideas how to interface? I am being supplied RCA line level out from the new HU. Maybe i'll dodge up a convertor
@@malster181 If you have a look at aerpro website they only show a different CAN module for retaining steering wheel control for the bose system. Some cars that are amped like altezza (I think) need a different harness to feed the signal to the amp from new head unit. I've never looked at the head unit in Mazda with bose, maybe it has an amp chip and it just isn't used. Seems wasteful but maybe easier to make one unit for all cars regardless?
Amigo no he encontrado quien me repare el ampli de mi coche , pero siguiendo tu video conseguire la pieza y lo llevare a que la sustituyan , yo no se nada de electrónica asi que lo llevare, luego te cuento como me fue , gracias
Si te funciono ?
Hi, is any chance to send my amp to You to repair? It's exactly the same model.
Hi mate do you do the mazda 3 TCM as well they go faulty as alot %70
I've had one sitting around for a year+ haven't had a chance to look in to mainly because it was swapped out and the car has gone. I thought about writing some software to talk to it over can bus is it would be the only way I'd know it was fixed as the failure is coms, but didn't get much past a thought, also I don't have a wiring diagram for the connector.
Where did you order the chip?
ebay
you reprogram eprom memory?? or just replac that dsp
Please watch all of part 1 and part 2 to find out
Did it actually produce audio once plugged back into the car?
Yes, all worked as it should. I couldn't see it for myself but this was for a workshop, they would have said try again if it didn't. I have done a few for the same shop now.
@@JonnyFixsame problem most of them or different one every time? İ noticed that regulator heatsink pad is a little bit cracked.
DSP chip going back seems more common
@@JonnyFix Mine sometimes works and sometimes dosent. This kind of fault makes it harder to trace. İ think can be dsp for me also. Maybe troubleshooting when its on non working condition can help.
Maybe it's not the amp
Can I send my amp to you to fix
Whats the chip cost ?
US $12