Raise Copper Vessel 4- Beaker Part 1
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- I have been asked to show how the cup or beaker shape is raised. I have delayed on this because it involves a lot of hammering which is interesting to do but boring to watch. I have come on the solution of cutting the hammering bits to a minimum and kept the comments/descriptions of what I am doing in the videos.
Each round only takes about 10-12 minutes if I am just working, an eternity if you are just watching and not seeing what I see as I drop the hammer on the copper. I have also omitted the annealing between each round in an effort to make something timely and useful.
Fine craftsmanship in your videos. Thanks for the detailed descriptions and for sharing your skills.
Great video. When I learned to blacksmith I was told to pull the handle on the vise all the way to one side and always to push down when tightening the vise and when loosening the vise. Let your body weight do the work. Makes it easier. Thanks for posting the videos.
IMHO: I really enjoy watching how fast you are progressing,,, as you spiral around, and around ever increasing the "latitude", of each pass. Do you always "rotate/spiral in the same direction, or. do you ever reverse directions?... Do you always try to keep the "cross pein perpendicular with the axis of the stake/form/dolly, or do you skew it slightly? Do you ever use the "crimping & trapping" methods, of "shrinking" as you raise the side height, of the vessel?
....Have you tried "raising" techniques, on other alloys, or, other metals?...( i.e. Bronze alloys, Brass alloys, (Nickle brass("German Silver"), Monel, pewter (tin), lead, Aluminum (alloys),..steel (alloys) stainless steel, titanium, etc...(?)....
If you were to fold a damp bath towel in three or even four and place it under the timber dolly/former it will reduce a lot of jarring and give the hammer strokes greater control of the metal being beaten. The taller on floor formers would benefit from two or three layers of lead roofing sheet underneath as a shock absorber as long as you don’t need to move it about. I’m an old metal worker and panel beater and am enjoying your videos as I thought this type of trade was long dead using hand tool’s. Great to watch you.
Thanks for writing and watching. This was made before I had a proper stake and stake holder. My studio has a lot more tools (and hammers) now.
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Put a wedge underneath your pipe at the angle you want. That will solve the issue. Great video!
This was made before I had a proper stake and stake holder. My studio has a lot more tools (and hammers) now. Thanks for watching.
You're stretching the metal vertically but at the same time you're reducing the radius, so you're compressing it horizontally. Sooo, the thickness doesn't change, right?
We just say"Moving Metal", and yes, it does stay the same gauge/thickness. Thanks for watching
Don't know how this.came up on my recommended list, but glad it did.
Hello Mr. Reynolds. I would love to raise some vessels and am loving your videos. Thanks so much for sharing.
Before I spend the big bucks on stakes I've been DIY ing things that I can. I spent most of the day making an end grain oak sinusoidal stake with hand tools and accidentally split one of the wings off. Se la vie.
My question is : What is the pipe you are using as a stake and where did you acquire it. Thanks in advance.
The pipe is an off cut that I found at Home Depot. It is steel and about 12-14" long. If you have a choice, get one with thicker walls, this one has walls about 1/8", the pipe itself is about 1 1/2" in diameter. I also have a wider pipe with a diameter of about 2 3/8" and walls are 3/16". You might find solid bars in a scrap yard. solid will be better if you can get it. Thanks for watching.
Just completed the 5th annealing and hammering. I seem to be unable to close in the middle and top. It just stays flared out like a candy dish. Do I only hammer straight down with a slight push or should I be hitting to the sides toward the middle? I enjoy the process but need some guidance here.Tried but unable to put a photo in here.
It sounds like you are not holding the piece correctly when you strike. It is easy at the base to strike and begin closing, as you get to the middle it is important that the base stay on or in line with the top of the stake, you are letting it rise and you are striking where the metal is already in contact with the stake. You should be holding the hammered part on the stake and then strike the part that is slightly raised away from the stake, curving up into the air. You can check your progress by taking the vessel off of the stake and putting it, open side toward you, against the stake. The hammered part should be flush with the stake, the unhammered/raised part will curve toward the center of the stake, any curve or daylight in the hammered area indicates that you are not holding the vessel correctly and you are not striking the metal where there is air under it. This is a very difficult concept and it does take some hand strength. As you raise the vessel, the sides should always be straight, that is, flush with the side of the stake when you test your progress. What you are doing is very common thing that happens before you learn how to hold the vessel against the stake. It may take you two or three vessels to figure it out. (I am assuming you are using a cross peen hammer)
The most constant problem with metal and jewelry making is figuring out how to hold the piece you are working on, raising a vessel is kind of a dance, you hold it one way at the base and gradually change your grip as you move up the sides because there is more space between the vessel and the stake on the bottom where you may be holding it.
Happy hammering and thanks for watching.
interesting stuff … have you studied how the metal moves? i can imagine a few concentric rings of evenly spaced dots on the original round plate and then watch how they dots move away/towards the center and each other.
Better info then other videos thanks
What is the weight of the hammer you are using in this video? Or if not by weight, how do you describe it so I can buy one?
it is called a raising hammer, which means it has cross peen heads, this one is 300 grams, they can be heavier or lighter. This one has two heads, one of which is broad, about 1/4 inch wide, and a sharper side which is a little thicker than 1/8 of an inch; all of the edges are rounded so there are no sharp corners or ends. I use the broad side for most of the raising and this weight is good for 20-18 gauge sheet metal. if you go to 16 or 14 gauge you will find a heavier hammer more effective. Thanks for watching.
Hi there. These videos are brilliant and very helpful. Was just wondering...we are currently being taught to anneal our bowls/vessels once we have reached the top with hammering but you don't appear to do this? What are the reasons behind not annealing? Thanks
Mhairi Gilmour I do anneal when I reach the top, I just don't show that part in all of the videos. With copper, you can go another light round with a planishing hammer if you need to do that, but with silver, you must anneal before raising another round. I'm glad to read that you are learning to raise vessels. Where are you learning?
Thanks for watching.
Where do you find the stake that you used to raise the sides of the beaker, and what is it called?
In this video I am using a pipe from Home depot, if you read my answer to AETHON below it is explained. The later videos show me using a proper stake, called a T stake which is made of solid cast iron. You can order one from All Craft in New York. you will also need a stake holder or a good vise to hold it. The stakes are about $75-80 US, there should be other suppliers look up metal work tools and don't forget to search EBay.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
Sage, great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching.
I would think that you might do better to hammer with a soft-faced (rawhide, plastic, or wooden mallet, or), hammer against a hard (steel,or bronze) mandrill, or, use a hard-faced hammer against a soft (hardwood) mandrill.....(unless you're in the "planishing" phase of the work.
When you use a mallet (soft Hammer) against a hard stake it will not move the metal, it simply bends it and the vessel does not close or rise. A hammer on to a soft surface has the same effect, it's called bouging. Thanks for watching.
Thank u so much
geat stuff
Imagine how much faster you would be if you didn't do a pointless light tap before every hard tap!
The light tap was not pointless. It slightly bends the metal so that I can strike the raising blow more accurately. The first strike is also higher up on the cup, to get that bend, than the raising strike. This was also done about 10 years ago and I now have proper stakes, and only when necessary, make the higher, lighter strike. Thanks for watching.
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