I have made a sled like yours, but put the "stop block" on the end in to the planer FIRST. I tried putting it in last like you suggested, but my planer wheels (not the cutter) grabbed the top board and slid it forward off of the sled. So at least in my experience, your planer wheels manage keeping the board from coming back at you, just like they do with any piece of wood you put in there; and the stop block keeps the sled and board from moving independently.
Makes me wonder how thin you can build a torsion box before it stops working. There is probably a ratio of the thickness to the space between the cross members that needs to be followed to maintain stiffness and flatness.
I did a lot of reading up on torsion boxes before making this one, and the consensus seems to be that the thinner the skins, the closer the interior supports should be spaced. If you were to use 1/4" plywood for the interior supports and the skins, I'm sure it could be problematic. That would be an interesting video to make, testing torsion boxes to see at what point they no longer work.
Did you run into trouble using sleds made of plywood/MDF? I totally get why this works and it's a good idea, just curious if you had some specific issues with the usual method to share.
I originally had one made from melamine. It warped over time. A big part of that is that it was stored in an unconditioned space. I plan to insulate my shop this year, but until then, this won't warp on me.
@@MurphysCreationsI feel that - my "workshop" is just my uninsulated garage. Hopefully sometime in the near future we can insulate it, but for now, the MN winters are a real problem.
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I have made a sled like yours, but put the "stop block" on the end in to the planer FIRST. I tried putting it in last like you suggested, but my planer wheels (not the cutter) grabbed the top board and slid it forward off of the sled. So at least in my experience, your planer wheels manage keeping the board from coming back at you, just like they do with any piece of wood you put in there; and the stop block keeps the sled and board from moving independently.
Makes me wonder how thin you can build a torsion box before it stops working. There is probably a ratio of the thickness to the space between the cross members that needs to be followed to maintain stiffness and flatness.
I did a lot of reading up on torsion boxes before making this one, and the consensus seems to be that the thinner the skins, the closer the interior supports should be spaced. If you were to use 1/4" plywood for the interior supports and the skins, I'm sure it could be problematic. That would be an interesting video to make, testing torsion boxes to see at what point they no longer work.
Well done! Solid presentation.
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed it!
Did you run into trouble using sleds made of plywood/MDF? I totally get why this works and it's a good idea, just curious if you had some specific issues with the usual method to share.
I originally had one made from melamine. It warped over time. A big part of that is that it was stored in an unconditioned space. I plan to insulate my shop this year, but until then, this won't warp on me.
@@MurphysCreationsI feel that - my "workshop" is just my uninsulated garage. Hopefully sometime in the near future we can insulate it, but for now, the MN winters are a real problem.
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