We can not stress enough the VALUE of having a laser level when doing this kind of work (or even checking the condition of the floors )! If you are interested, check out the link : DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Red, 3-Beam (DW089K) by Dewalt amzn.to/3xNbY3K It works well but this is NOT the most affordable version. We actually have 3 different brands and they ALL work great. If you are looking for more affordable options, check out the video description or our other floor leveling videos in the following playlist : ua-cam.com/play/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6.html Just FYI. These Amazon links are affiliate links. They are free for you to use AND Amazon will pay us a small commission if you use them - Many thanks if you do. It helps us keep making videos!
We chose to avoid that option because unless you are 100% positive there is not a structural issue, the weight of the concrete leveler can do a lot of damage. Just fyi…
For option 3, where does one purchase the plywood shims you discussed? A Google search doesn’t show these as something regularly stocked/sold at the usual outlets. Thank you!
Hello, I presently live in a home that have sagging floors. I have decided to purchase jacks and lift the floors from the basement. My question is are there any prep work required on the 1st and 2nd floor prior to installing the kicks and lifting? Do I need to be concerned with baseboard trim, door trim, or anything. I have received my drawings on where to place the jacks. I understand that my plaster and drywall will also begin to crack in some areas. I just want to get level floors before I purchase my new doors and install new trim.
Hey Steven, Sounds like you’ve done some good prep. Our practice was to go slow… it took decades to get to that point…so rushing is asking for issues. We’d do a 1/8 inch and let it sit a day or two. Then another 1/8 and rest a day or 2. We still got some plaster cracks… so the slower the better is what we thought. Hope your project goes well. Thx for watching!
I don't understand this method, after a month or so of raising the old joists, what do you do to prevent them from just re-sagging again? You aren't planning on leaving the jacks and support beams in place are you?
i did option 3... and this is my thoughts... none of these options fix the actual problem. those joists and likely the carrying beam are low and need to be raised. Whether its rot somewhere, the sill, or foundation or support sinkage... these problems need to be diagnosed and corrected.
Hey @brandonarcher6118 , Option 1 is a fix (sistering) if the problem is in the joist itself. If the problem is in the wall or foundation - thats another deal. Thx for watching.
Very informative video! For option 3, do you recommend screwing the shim into the joists or is it sufficient if they are screwed into the existing subfloor? Thanks!
If the existing floor is plywood, that should be good. We added construction glue to help us not have to worry about accuracy too much. Thx for watching.
Great video thank you. I have a joist needing repair in floor of bedroom over garage. Hopefully I can go under the floor maybe and just rip out the sheetrock in the ceiling in the garage.
After 5 years, the area by the entry door of an old MH started swelling more than usual. I though it was the humidity due to the hurricanes, but this time the floor area by the door & the small hall closet started getting soft & didn't contract as before. I realize now, as you said - either I cut the door, or as I thought - after laying a new piece of subfloor, replace the door hang & have a new area cut for the new door replacement. I hear MH doors are special ordered, whereby regular house entry doors at Lowes are pickup. I had been meaning to replace the dented old door, guess now is the time.
Hey John…, Water is always the enemy of wood. But you flooring should seal your sub floor from minor water like getting out of shower. But let’s say you have a broken pipe of tub overflow. That would cause damage to any subfloor or ceiling below. If you are still concerned, #2 should eliminate any voids (filling them w/ plywood and floor leveler. Thx for watching!
I've got some engineered wood flooring for one of my downstairs rooms, the floors are solid the problem being on one side of the room it drops about 40 mm in the last 600mm, I think shimmying would be the best way, anyone any advice, thanks.
Question for a older mansion block top floor flat. There is a light slope in the corridor area and the bathroom and it crackles a bit when walking on it. Once you do the sistering and you have levelled the floor, you put a subfloor of plywood on it right? If I want to make it real solid and add porcelain tiles or engineered wood, can I add a layer of screed or that would cause moisture issues later on? What would be the best option for a solid floor?
@Housebarons Yessum... got the bathroom left. Kind of took a break and been putting in wood plank flooring starting in the bedroom. Once I get to mid living room I'll go back to leveling. It's fun if it's not a job. Best. You are much better carpenter than I but my floors are secured, level, and don't creek so that's a win
Hey camp…, We have added beams and posts in more than one basement before. It can be very helpful to steady a weak floor. Maybe check out some of these videos to get some ideas of what we did: Floor Leveling ua-cam.com/play/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6.html Thx for watching!
Possible, but a lot of measuring as sags tend to be curved and very irregular. That’s why “sistering” a board next to a joist is a lot easier / quicker to line up.
Hey Kai, That is certainly an option. The goal of the video was just to show how to address the issue from above if work from below wasn’t an option. Good point though. Thx for watching!
ahhh si this house I have an offer on there are no doors except for 2 bedrooms...I said what up with no door on the bedrooms and closet...so they did the subfloor attempt to fix it...but...the floors in 2 rooms still sag. and it looks like the termites have done this and they said but we have gotten rid of the termites....well termite guy said well there is termites in the joist..active...so they tried to fix it that's why there are no doors....am I right...I think I just gonna walk away ..
Yeah - w/o being able to see into each joist cavity - you could be buying floors ready to collapse- I would walk before buying termite damage. Too risky w/ so much unknown. Hope that helps !
@@Housebarons I did walk away my realtor tried to strong army to buy it, and I’m taking them to court because they said that they had no damage to any type of infestation. Not only did they have damage. They also had active termites in the joist and water was called them to their crawlspace. I’ve been $1800.
The sistering route is LITERALLY the only good way suggested in this video. The other “fixes” are terrible advice and only add extra weight to an already clearly damaged floor. Terrible idea
My joists are sagging length ways on one side of my trailer everything is in good shape. If it wasn't it was replaced. Pretty sure asbestos is everywhere.
Hey Devin, You could probably do some internet searches to find out about asbestos. Supposedly, asbestos was put out if you federally in 1978-1980 in home construction. Not sure about trailers. Thx for watching!
No. That is so stupid . You go under the floor. Under the house. You install nrw joist and support beams , jack up the low spots until level and nail or screw them in place. A bad or sunken pier or a rotten joist is most likely the problem.
I have a purchase to offer ( in due diligence now) on a 100-year-old house I noticed they took the doors off 90 percent of the house... I think it was because the termites had done the damage the inspector said he saw...and the termite guy said termites are still the joints... but the doors were removed because the still sunken floors were not fixed... I think I should just walk away another 1600 down the drain
We can not stress enough the VALUE of having a laser level when doing this kind of work (or even checking the condition of the floors )!
If you are interested, check out the link :
DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Red, 3-Beam (DW089K)
by Dewalt
amzn.to/3xNbY3K
It works well but this is NOT the most affordable version. We actually have 3 different brands and they ALL work great. If you are looking for more affordable options, check out the video description or our other floor leveling videos in the following playlist :
ua-cam.com/play/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6.html
Just FYI. These Amazon links are affiliate links. They are free for you to use AND Amazon will pay us a small commission if you use them - Many thanks if you do. It helps us keep making videos!
Good information 😊. Got some much needed answers to questions regarding our older home floors, which our uneven in some rooms. Thank you.
Hey Brenda..,
Glad it was helpful. Thx for watching - that helps our channel!
I really like the Sistering idea. Provided the issue is contained in a relatively small area, then I think this idea would work perfectly. Thank you.
Hey Stephanie,
Glad to help! Hope the idea works well for you. Thx for watching!
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This is excellent. Thank you so much for sharing this information. This helps a lot.
Thank you! I had 2 of these thoughts didn’t know about sistering. Very helpful
Hey Me,
Glad it helped! Thx for watching!
Great! Just what I was looking for.
Glad I could help!
My floor is sagging where the hallway wall sits parallel with joists so it will have to be jacked
I'm having to do the same to my house
Shim and cover - super creative solution.
Thx for watching Mark!
Could I put leveling concrete down once I did option 1 for an upstairs bathroom?
We chose to avoid that option because unless you are 100% positive there is not a structural issue, the weight of the concrete leveler can do a lot of damage.
Just fyi…
For option 3, where does one purchase the plywood shims you discussed? A Google search doesn’t show these as something regularly stocked/sold at the usual outlets. Thank you!
Big box stores like HD and L have them. Call your local stores to inquire.
Hello,
I presently live in a home that have sagging floors. I have decided to purchase jacks and lift the floors from the basement. My question is are there any prep work required on the 1st and 2nd floor prior to installing the kicks and lifting? Do I need to be concerned with baseboard trim, door trim, or anything. I have received my drawings on where to place the jacks. I understand that my plaster and drywall will also begin to crack in some areas. I just want to get level floors before I purchase my new doors and install new trim.
Hey Steven,
Sounds like you’ve done some good prep. Our practice was to go slow… it took decades to get to that point…so rushing is asking for issues. We’d do a 1/8 inch and let it sit a day or two. Then another 1/8 and rest a day or 2. We still got some plaster cracks… so the slower the better is what we thought.
Hope your project goes well.
Thx for watching!
I don't understand this method, after a month or so of raising the old joists, what do you do to prevent them from just re-sagging again? You aren't planning on leaving the jacks and support beams in place are you?
i did option 3... and this is my thoughts... none of these options fix the actual problem. those joists and likely the carrying beam are low and need to be raised. Whether its rot somewhere, the sill, or foundation or support sinkage... these problems need to be diagnosed and corrected.
Hey @brandonarcher6118 ,
Option 1 is a fix (sistering) if the problem is in the joist itself. If the problem is in the wall or foundation - thats another deal. Thx for watching.
He literally said that at the beginning.
what thickness was the ply wood shims?
Typically we used 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch
Very informative video! For option 3, do you recommend screwing the shim into the joists or is it sufficient if they are screwed into the existing subfloor? Thanks!
If the existing floor is plywood, that should be good. We added construction glue to help us not have to worry about accuracy too much.
Thx for watching.
Great video thank you. I have a joist needing repair in floor of bedroom over garage. Hopefully I can go under the floor maybe and just rip out the sheetrock in the ceiling in the garage.
The BEST repair is to address the actual sag! Hope it fixes well!
After 5 years, the area by the entry door of an old MH started swelling more than usual. I though it was the humidity due to the hurricanes, but this time the floor area by the door & the small hall closet started getting soft & didn't contract as before.
I realize now, as you said - either I cut the door, or as I thought - after laying a new piece of subfloor, replace the door hang & have a new area cut for the new door replacement.
I hear MH doors are special ordered, whereby regular house entry doors at Lowes are pickup. I had been meaning to replace the dented old door, guess now is the time.
Sounds like your door is going to need to go - hope it all works out…
very good info. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
What if a part of the house had to be lifted from the foundation during framing…is there ever a time you needed to use steal wedges ?
Would #3 be good for a bathroom? I wonder about water in those spaces between the shims.
Hey John…,
Water is always the enemy of wood. But you flooring should seal your sub floor from minor water like getting out of shower.
But let’s say you have a broken pipe of tub overflow. That would cause damage to any subfloor or ceiling below.
If you are still concerned, #2 should eliminate any voids (filling them w/ plywood and floor leveler.
Thx for watching!
Great explanation, thank you!
Hey five..,
Thx. Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video, make sense.
Glad it was helpful!
I've got some engineered wood flooring for one of my downstairs rooms, the floors are solid the problem being on one side of the room it drops about 40 mm in the last 600mm, I think shimmying would be the best way, anyone any advice, thanks.
Question for a older mansion block top floor flat. There is a light slope in the corridor area and the bathroom and it crackles a bit when walking on it. Once you do the sistering and you have levelled the floor, you put a subfloor of plywood on it right? If I want to make it real solid and add porcelain tiles or engineered wood, can I add a layer of screed or that would cause moisture issues later on? What would be the best option for a solid floor?
Been doing this all week
Hey GC ,
That’s real work right there!
@Housebarons
Yessum... got the bathroom left. Kind of took a break and been putting in wood plank flooring starting in the bedroom. Once I get to mid living room I'll go back to leveling. It's fun if it's not a job. Best. You are much better carpenter than I but my floors are secured, level, and don't creek so that's a win
how to fix kitchen floor , they not put post support , when the kid walk or run on the floor start bounce any tips , thank you.
Hey camp…,
We have added beams and posts in more than one basement before. It can be very helpful to steady a weak floor.
Maybe check out some of these videos to get some ideas of what we did: Floor Leveling
ua-cam.com/play/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6.html
Thx for watching!
Why not just cut new 8' long shims and attach to the tops of the old joists, ?
Possible, but a lot of measuring as sags tend to be curved and very irregular. That’s why “sistering” a board next to a joist is a lot easier / quicker to line up.
Why not jacking up the floor ? Putting a beam underneath
Hey Kai,
That is certainly an option. The goal of the video was just to show how to address the issue from above if work from below wasn’t an option.
Good point though. Thx for watching!
ahhh si this house I have an offer on there are no doors except for 2 bedrooms...I said what up with no door on the bedrooms and closet...so they did the subfloor attempt to fix it...but...the floors in 2 rooms still sag. and it looks like the termites have done this and they said but we have gotten rid of the termites....well termite guy said well there is termites in the joist..active...so they tried to fix it that's why there are no doors....am I right...I think I just gonna walk away ..
Yeah - w/o being able to see into each joist cavity - you could be buying floors ready to collapse- I would walk before buying termite damage. Too risky w/ so much unknown.
Hope that helps !
@@Housebarons I did walk away my realtor tried to strong army to buy it, and I’m taking them to court because they said that they had no damage to any type of infestation. Not only did they have damage. They also had active termites in the joist and water was called them to their crawlspace. I’ve been $1800.
The sistering route is LITERALLY the only good way suggested in this video. The other “fixes” are terrible advice and only add extra weight to an already clearly damaged floor. Terrible idea
So, nothing to actually address the root issue?
My joists are sagging length ways on one side of my trailer everything is in good shape. If it wasn't it was replaced. Pretty sure asbestos is everywhere.
Hey Devin,
You could probably do some internet searches to find out about asbestos.
Supposedly, asbestos was put out if you federally in 1978-1980 in home construction.
Not sure about trailers.
Thx for watching!
I have this issue fixed by myself.
Hey je…,
Nice - way to go! Thanks for watching!
It’s under the biggest granite countertop you ever saw 😢
Figures! I’d be sure and solve the reason it sagged… yes. Granite is heavy but the floor should support it!
This title is so misleading. You're not repairing the sagging floor. Your shoving a bandaid on it.
No. That is so stupid . You go under the floor. Under the house. You install nrw joist and support beams , jack up the low spots until level and nail or screw them in place. A bad or sunken pier or a rotten joist is most likely the problem.
What about additions to a home, that don’t even have a crawl space underneath
I have a purchase to offer ( in due diligence now) on a 100-year-old house I noticed they took the doors off 90 percent of the house... I think it was because the termites had done the damage the inspector said he saw...and the termite guy said termites are still the joints... but the doors were removed because the still sunken floors were not fixed... I think I should just walk away another 1600 down the drain
How not to fix a sagging floor!!!
Tell us how