Added the heavy-duty RAS suspension on a 2020 Tundra Platinum 4x4 and it made a huge difference in pulling and in handling. Wish I would have done it sooner.
Be aware that some F150 variants may have a potential interference with the body roll sensor near where the RAS attaches to the spring mount on the axle. RAS told me to use the second hole from the bottom, not the first hole as shown in this video. Contact them before you install if you spot any type of possible interference. Vtheir tech support is very responsive and knowledgeable.
Thanks a ton for all the good info. I’m running a heavy slide in camper and originally had the RAS in addition to airbags. After issues with the bags I’ll be swapping them out for sumo springs. The added support is really nice on our rollercoaster roads here in Alaska or to go off the beaten path a bit. I’m sold on the RAS though, made the trip home with just the springs after a failed bag. 3500lb camper loaded to the gills. That was with them only at half tension. Thanks again!!
I put RAS on my 2018 f150 5.0. They were great with just my quad and gear in my truck. When I hooked up 7500lb TT they weren't enough even with a EH. Put on a set of Timbren with the RAS and its great. Really makes a difference when going over bumpy roads. The ride is really good with out the trailer because just the RAS is engaged and the Timbrens are still about 2" from the axle.
You answered a question I was going to ask. Can you use both together? Thank you. I am going from a F53 chassis, class A that I put Timbrens on and it made a very big improvement. I am going from the Motorhome into a similar weight Travel Trailer that you have. About 8000lbs. I already have a F150 with max tow and I would like to tow with it if I can. I think I will copy you and go with the Timbrens and HD Active Suspension set up. Are you still happy with your set up?
I am happy with the set up. But when you put the Timbrens on you will need to make some slight mods. On the driver's side you need to move one line on the axle. Easy to do. On the passenger side you will need to modify the the perch that the Timbren sits on. All this has to do with the clearance between the RAS and the Timbrens hardware. Probably would be easier to install the Timbrens first then the RAS. You maybe able to adjust the RAS enough to have clearance so the Timbrens hardware will clear the RAS when the suspension flexes. I am not home at the moment so I can't send pics. Will do so in a month. I'm fishing.
Another tip for you and viewers, the bump stop spacer bolt I cut a slot in the bolt head and tightened it down with a screwdriver. I couldn’t find a thin wall socket to clear the clearances.
My 20 F150 is my 6th truck. It now wears my 3rd RAS system. Although these work great for a truck that carries or tows a load to me the real benefit lies in the day to day unloaded or lightly loaded truck. To "really understand" how these systems change your truck, I recommend you brush up on your physics. RAS is a great product.
@@jonvanwinkle4706 They take the bite out of the ride. They raise the rear about 1/2" and the front 1/4" in an unloaded truck. I adjusted them for about mid setting with a feeler gauge not the supplied plastic disks feeler gauges. They help the truck to handle better. They also help reduce wheel hop on acceleration and cornering. I wouldn't say the ride is at all springy but very controlled.
Do you have experience with both the standard duty and heavy duty roadmasters? I'm trying to decide between the two for my 2012 Tundra. I tow a 4000lb travel trailer with about 400lbs in the bed so I figure SD is probably the best bet
@@Wallstreetavarice The hd will give you more of an option for load management. That's what I have and keep it dialed back about half way. It has a noticeable slight lift with that setting unloaded which I'm ok with. I could dial it back more if it bothered me. For adjustment I use a feeler gauge instead of supplied plastic disks. I measure at the same center position for both sides since the gap varies on a spring.
With the Roadmaster active suspension the axle never make contact with your Sumo spring. But without the active suspension it was in contact constantly
Just an FYI, Everyone on the half ton hauler page puts the bolt in front of the axle through the third hole on F-150’s. I really like the RAS. Good video
@@MrTruckTV if you do change it to the third hole and think about it, take a before and after measurement of truck height. They say adding the HD RAS adds 1” to 1-1/2” in height.
@@thedoitalldad765 Yes, the rear rake is higher now. Going to the 3rd hole would make the spring tighter and I'd have to adjust it. The third hole would make the whole device shorter, what benefit would that give me? I'm set at the 1 mm and loaded it's perfect. If the third hole would lower the rear when empty and keep it the same loaded, I would do that.
Installed a heavy duty set on my new F150 Hybrid Powerboost. Have a slide-in camper on order. Picked up 1 1/4 inch of rake with 2mm spacer setting on my RAS. Also installed a Jellwig anti-sway bar. Hope the truck handles the camper okay! BTW, no noticeable impact on unladen ride.
I run 5100 Bilstiens shocks that are made for stock up to a 2 inch lift they ride a little rough but loaded they are the best on my 1 ton 4 door long bed dullay the Handel like the best road course truck out there and that’s a lot of fun !!!
These seem like a better by far alternative to bump stops (which still allows enough squat to create blinding headlights). Can't wait to get a set of RAS.
Bump stops are not suspension; they are just protectors to prevent damage when the max wheel travel is reached (max load, or hitting a bump while carrying a load). If you hit the bump stop, you have exceeded your suspension’s rated ability at that moment. This is an alternative to something that prevents the truck from hitting the bump stop, such as rubber springs, air bags, stiffer leafs, etc. If your truck is ever resting on the (factory) bump stop after adding a load or trailer, you are going to have a very bad time and very poor traction, since you’ve lost all wheel travel and the ability for the wheels to adapt to the road to maintain good contact. Note that devices that replace the bump stops, like Sumo Springs, are not actually bump stops anymore; they become additional suspension since they flex and provide wheel travel, while acting as a bump stop if the max travel is reached (and carrying all of the same dangers at that point). Ideally, whatever you use to supplement the suspension should retain some amount of wheel travel, avoiding contact with the bump stop at the same time, so the suspension can continue to do it’s job keeping you and your load safe and in control.
@@Cloud30000 I agree, my truck with Roadmaster keeps the suspension off the bump stop which now is a Sumo spring cut in 1/2 since I threw away the factory bumpstops when I was testing Sumo Springs
Turning the 14mm nut to apply tension can be somewhat difficult. On my F150 there was interference with the body roll sensor. You can turn the 15/16th nut at the bottom of the spring as an alternative way to apply tension. The tech at RAS clued me in on this.
Mr. Truck a long time fan of yours from your TFL work. This is a great video. But i wonder how the RAS compares to a full contact helper spring like the Hellwig product where you have two points of contact instead of one on the RAS? Bump stops dont excite me as the impact is localized on the axle tube. Seems like more springs and a hellwig sway bar are the best way to hamdle load safely
Timbrens do not ride rough. They do not engage empty, only when you add payload to your truck. That's the only time timbrens engage. Otherwise, you're just driving stock, with 2" clearance between your bed frame and timbrens. Timbrens do not affect your empty ride at all.
Seems like a no brainer to get these for a 1/2 ton truck, but I'm not sure how effective they will be with 3/4 or 1 ton truck. The springs are already really stiff in an HD truck. I suppose the axle wrap and wheel hop benefits may still be realized there when unloaded.
Another benefit especially for Heavy Duty, is it's always connected to the trucks suspension so Roadmaster can control the empty ride for a smoother ride. I talked about that in the video.
Some 5160 Bilstein shocks will make a massive difference in ride quality. Stock shocks on pickup trucks are usually pretty garbage. They won't help much with squat though. I've been thinking about sumo springs myself but this weird spring looks interesting
I promise you won't be disappointed. I noticed an immediate difference as I went on a 75 mile drive immediately after installing them on my 2021 F150 last weekend. I wasn't towing but I noticed much better handling all around, especially with body roll as I was driving on winding paved roads. Sumo springs won't help much with that at all.
Hello! How well it does work with axle wrap? Nobody has a video records about that from pinion view, and no real proof that it does help. Thank you for great video reviews!
Thanks, What I like about RAS, it's adjustable and since it's always touching, it will improve your trucks empty ride. Sumo, doesn't touch anything when you're unloaded. I like factory air ride, just not fond of aftermarket air systems
How would the sumo and RAS work with both on them I have the same RAS and love the way it helps with hailing my travel trailer and empty My trailer is 8,500 and it basically eliminates any porpusing and helps in high winds
If I have a camper mounted to my pickup and I go off road, Is the Roadmaster going to make the truck sway more when off camber Or does it make contact better then too?
Mr truck, so it sounds like you recommend the springs over the sumo springs now correct? But the sumo spring are great and will work nice for pulling a camper? Maybe the nkue summons spring would be perfect for an 150 with a great ride and squat combo?
@@MrTruckTV let's say I have a 6000 lbs travel trailer pulling with a 2017 f150. If you get the truck level with wdh, is there a point to get sumo springs? I mean they would help with the sway from side to side in the truck and make it feel more stable towing or am I not thinking about this correct?
I have a 2011 f150 5.0 3.55 gears 4x4. I'll be pulling a 8,000 lb inclosed trailer 1500 miles this summer. The truck is capable of that load but the previous owner installed a leveling kit so anytime I hook up a trailer the squat looks terrible. I'm hoping the RAS and a weight distribution hitch will help out. I also live up North and traction in snow isn't the best with such a light rear-end. I wonder if the RAS will help with traction? I do run a dedicated snow tire which is a night and day difference from an all season tire. I also farm and the rear end gets pretty loose hitting washboards.
Generally, if you start with a WDH, and that lifts up the rear of the truck, then you put the overloads on to give you traction. Just the weight of the trailer tongue by itself should give you traction. But the RAS and a Andersen WDH is a good combination. I sell Andersen and very soon I'll be selling RAS. I like to find the good products and sell what I use on MrTruck.com
I'm searching and can't find an explanation or answer. I just purchased a new 1 ton dually. When I drop our new to us 16,000lb.+ 5th wheel, the rear end drops and it's riding on the overload springs. The ride was perfectly fine ,so that is not an issue. Question 1: is it bad to be on the overload? Question 2: if it is bad, is the purpose of the Sumo Springs to relieve this?
That's pretty common, it just means you're using all your springs. Is it level or star gazing? If you aren't level, then you may need helper springs, like SUMO
I have timbrens on my 21 ranger, love them great Canadian product and coming from a 19 f350 use to a rough ride, having said that after this video the next truck(I trade often) gonna try roadmaster.. Keep up the great reviews Kent
I tried timbrens on my 13 tundra and since added the RAS system. I kept the timbrens installed and have no issues while towing my toy hauler. The RAS system is a game changer.
Will either one help you with your payload capacity? I'm looking to increase my payload capacity by 300 to 500lbs. Is there anything that will help me do that?
Cheaper, easier to install. Unless you buy the most expensive air bag kit, you have to manually lower the air pressure when you aren't loaded or it's a very rough ride
I have SumoSprings on my Tundra and am considering replacing them with RAS. I don’t have my old bump stops either, so I would like to keep my existing SumoSprings as bump stops. How did you cut down your SumoSprings to perform as bump stops when installing RAS?
Excellent Video and review. You took the time and made the install look easy. I especially liked how you figured out how they work and why they are effective. Question though; Did you consider leaving the Sumo Springs in place with the RAS? For example, not cutting them.
Well the problems was I was testing the RAS and Sumo separately. I threw away the Ford bump stops so I needed a bump stop. I think using they together would be too stiff and for a good empty ride, you want some wheel Travel.
I have a 1500 pound camper permanently installed on my 1/2 ton and I have the RAS along with a purple Sumo Spring (softer that black). I really like them together, especially on curves and turns.
My 1 ton dullay drives like a sports car if you tail gate me I will lite it up on exit ramps and they drive crazy trying to keep up with the dual lay and it’s funny as hell when they lose their shit trying to keep up with a dullay and they are bad ass on a drivers course ..
I can see some of the advantage, but realistically, different shocks will affect unladen ride even more than these. On rapid small bumps ( up to about pot hole sized) you will want a digressive valve setup for control, on large, undulating bumps with significant travel a linear valve setup for comfort. For making sweet jumps on the sledgehammer, you want a bypass linear or progressive valve unit so you don't break your spine. For your mostly chattered dirt roads out on the Kansas-lite part of CO, I recommend a cheap set of Bilstein 5100s or even Eibach pro truck units (Which I'm not convinced aren't just a Bilstein 5100 design, considering Eibach makes all of their springs) Regardless, a monotube unit is FAR superior in longevity than a twin tube in the rough stuff. As far as ride height control, I like Sumos myself. They are cheap, and also helpful as poor man's hydro bump stops on really nasty roads. Half of the reason I got the shackle lift was to tame the overly stiff rear leafs on my Ranger, adding travel and clearance and Roadmasters would just compound the issue. Yours is primarily a tow rig, so it makes a ton of sense for your setup.
If your springs are already too stiff, all towing suspension boosters (airbags, add a leafs, rubber springs, etc) will make it worse by going in the wrong direction; you could technically extend the spring to soften it, but that adds a world of reliability issues, so replacing with a softer setup is needed. As far as these, they will never be as good as custom shocks for dampening and a specific rubber bump stop tuned for one specific weight; however, the big benefit is that they are more well rounded, improving the ride unladen while also improving the ride with a heavy load and being adjustable on top of that. They are a do everything better solution, instead of a do this specific thing best solution that non-adjustable shocks and a non-adjustable sumo spring offers. If I was always using it with light loads on a rough road or farm, I would go with custom shocks. If I was always towing the same load or hauling the same weight, I’d go with sumo springs and different custom shocks. However, I am changing my use case all the time, with different loads between empty and max capacity throughout the year, and with often random loads in trailers; this solution is best for that situation (IMHO) because it can improve on every situation in some manner and requires zero maintenance and likely to last forever.
Eibach does not offer shocks for the f150 with the HD tow package. Ford has an all new f150 as of 2021, apparently the aftermarket rear shocks you speak of offer less hold up vs stock. This is coming from a eibach sales rep.
It's important to note that the spacer on the end of the bracket needs to be installed up against the bottom of the leaf spring and against the U-Bolts. It needs to be wedged up in the corner there in front of the axle. It looked like the one on the driver's side was not making contact with the leaf, but maybe it was just the camera angle.
I have a friend who had RAS installed on her 2021 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 crew cab long wheelbase she transports trailers and fifth wheels all over the US and she swears by this product I just bought a new 2022 Silverado 1500 4X4 crew cab short bed and I'm about to purchase me a set of RAS. ab long wheelbase she transports trailers and fifth wheels all over the US and she swears by this product I just bought a new 2022 Silverado 1500 4X4 crew cab short bed and I'm about to purchase me a set of RAS.
Added the heavy-duty RAS suspension on a 2020 Tundra Platinum 4x4 and it made a huge difference in pulling and in handling. Wish I would have done it sooner.
Great
Be aware that some F150 variants may have a potential interference with the body roll sensor near where the RAS attaches to the spring mount on the axle. RAS told me to use the second hole from the bottom, not the first hole as shown in this video. Contact them before you install if you spot any type of possible interference. Vtheir tech support is very responsive and knowledgeable.
Good to know
Thanks a ton for all the good info. I’m running a heavy slide in camper and originally had the RAS in addition to airbags. After issues with the bags I’ll be swapping them out for sumo springs. The added support is really nice on our rollercoaster roads here in Alaska or to go off the beaten path a bit. I’m sold on the RAS though, made the trip home with just the springs after a failed bag. 3500lb camper loaded to the gills. That was with them only at half tension. Thanks again!!
You're very welcome
I put RAS on my 2018 f150 5.0. They were great with just my quad and gear in my truck.
When I hooked up 7500lb TT they weren't enough even with a EH. Put on a set of Timbren with the RAS and its great. Really makes a difference when going over bumpy roads. The ride is really good with out the trailer because just the RAS is engaged and the Timbrens are still about 2" from the axle.
Did you have the Heavy Duty RAS or the standard ones?
HD.
You answered a question I was going to ask. Can you use both together? Thank you. I am going from a F53 chassis, class A that I put Timbrens on and it made a very big improvement. I am going from the Motorhome into a similar weight Travel Trailer that you have. About 8000lbs. I already have a F150 with max tow and I would like to tow with it if I can. I think I will copy you and go with the Timbrens and HD Active Suspension set up. Are you still happy with your set up?
I am happy with the set up. But when you put the Timbrens on you will need to make some slight mods. On the driver's side you need to move one line on the axle. Easy to do. On the passenger side you will need to modify the the perch that the Timbren sits on. All this has to do with the clearance between the RAS and the Timbrens hardware. Probably would be easier to install the Timbrens first then the RAS. You maybe able to adjust the RAS enough to have clearance so the Timbrens hardware will clear the RAS when the suspension flexes. I am not home at the moment so I can't send pics. Will do so in a month. I'm fishing.
Thanks for your response. Have fun fishing.
Another tip for you and viewers, the bump stop spacer bolt I cut a slot in the bolt head and tightened it down with a screwdriver. I couldn’t find a thin wall socket to clear the clearances.
Good to know, the box came with the spacer, but I had to cut off the Sumo and use it for my bump stop
My 20 F150 is my 6th truck. It now wears my 3rd RAS system. Although these work great for a truck that carries or tows a load to me the real benefit lies in the day to day unloaded or lightly loaded truck. To "really understand" how these systems change your truck, I recommend you brush up on your physics. RAS is a great product.
I have sumo springs and the ride empty is a bit "springy" in the back. How is the RAS empty?
@@jonvanwinkle4706 They take the bite out of the ride. They raise the rear about 1/2" and the front 1/4" in an unloaded truck. I adjusted them for about mid setting with a feeler gauge not the supplied plastic disks feeler gauges. They help the truck to handle better. They also help reduce wheel hop on acceleration and cornering. I wouldn't say the ride is at all springy but very controlled.
@@pippuppy Thanks. Good to know. I think I will give them a try.
Do you have experience with both the standard duty and heavy duty roadmasters? I'm trying to decide between the two for my 2012 Tundra. I tow a 4000lb travel trailer with about 400lbs in the bed so I figure SD is probably the best bet
@@Wallstreetavarice The hd will give you more of an option for load management. That's what I have and keep it dialed back about half way. It has a noticeable slight lift with that setting unloaded which I'm ok with. I could dial it back more if it bothered me. For adjustment I use a feeler gauge instead of supplied plastic disks. I measure at the same center position for both sides since the gap varies on a spring.
With the Roadmaster active suspension the axle never make contact with your Sumo spring. But without the active suspension it was in contact constantly
Yes
RAS on an OBS c1500 = Awesome!! Drives like a sports car!!
that's great
Just an FYI, Everyone on the half ton hauler page puts the bolt in front of the axle through the third hole on F-150’s. I really like the RAS. Good video
Thanks, third hole from which end?
@@MrTruckTV from the end you put the bolt in.
@@thedoitalldad765 Thanks, I thought that might hang to low in front of the axle and drag on the sage brush out here in the sand hills.
@@MrTruckTV if you do change it to the third hole and think about it, take a before and after measurement of truck height. They say adding the HD RAS adds 1” to 1-1/2” in height.
@@thedoitalldad765 Yes, the rear rake is higher now. Going to the 3rd hole would make the spring tighter and I'd have to adjust it. The third hole would make the whole device shorter, what benefit would that give me? I'm set at the 1 mm and loaded it's perfect. If the third hole would lower the rear when empty and keep it the same loaded, I would do that.
Installed a heavy duty set on my new F150 Hybrid Powerboost. Have a slide-in camper on order. Picked up 1 1/4 inch of rake with 2mm spacer setting on my RAS. Also installed a Jellwig anti-sway bar. Hope the truck handles the camper okay! BTW, no noticeable impact on unladen ride.
Great, we sell and use them too
Your video shows that the axle wrap still happens after the RAS is installed. That's a bummer because I was hoping that would be gone like they say.
It's not much about the same as SuperSprings
Great Reviews..Hope the good local restaurants are doing well.
Thanks, they are. I did one video to help them out and now all the ones I go to are very busy and can't hire enough help
I run 5100 Bilstiens shocks that are made for stock up to a 2 inch lift they ride a little rough but loaded they are the best on my 1 ton 4 door long bed dullay the Handel like the best road course truck out there and that’s a lot of fun !!!
Cool
These seem like a better by far alternative to bump stops (which still allows enough squat to create blinding headlights). Can't wait to get a set of RAS.
Great, mine work well. We sell them at store.mrtruck.com
Bump stops are not suspension; they are just protectors to prevent damage when the max wheel travel is reached (max load, or hitting a bump while carrying a load). If you hit the bump stop, you have exceeded your suspension’s rated ability at that moment.
This is an alternative to something that prevents the truck from hitting the bump stop, such as rubber springs, air bags, stiffer leafs, etc.
If your truck is ever resting on the (factory) bump stop after adding a load or trailer, you are going to have a very bad time and very poor traction, since you’ve lost all wheel travel and the ability for the wheels to adapt to the road to maintain good contact.
Note that devices that replace the bump stops, like Sumo Springs, are not actually bump stops anymore; they become additional suspension since they flex and provide wheel travel, while acting as a bump stop if the max travel is reached (and carrying all of the same dangers at that point).
Ideally, whatever you use to supplement the suspension should retain some amount of wheel travel, avoiding contact with the bump stop at the same time, so the suspension can continue to do it’s job keeping you and your load safe and in control.
@@Cloud30000 I agree, my truck with Roadmaster keeps the suspension off the bump stop which now is a Sumo spring cut in 1/2 since I threw away the factory bumpstops when I was testing Sumo Springs
How about the SuperSpring also from SumoSptring ? Can you also test and compare that one vs the RAS ?
I'll see
Turning the 14mm nut to apply tension can be somewhat difficult. On my F150 there was interference with the body roll sensor. You can turn the 15/16th nut at the bottom of the spring as an alternative way to apply tension. The tech at RAS clued me in on this.
Good to know
😂 ask your wife. 😂 that's a good one
Awesome job on the video!
Thanks
We all need a "supported load" for sure!
Yeah great video. I ended up putting them on my GMC AT4 1500 Sierra and like them so far. I just got the standard ones.
Thanks
Sumos?
Mr. Truck a long time fan of yours from your TFL work. This is a great video. But i wonder how the RAS compares to a full contact helper spring like the Hellwig product where you have two points of contact instead of one on the RAS? Bump stops dont excite me as the impact is localized on the axle tube. Seems like more springs and a hellwig sway bar are the best way to hamdle load safely
Thanks, I'm a fan of RAS. On heavy duty trucks, they also help the empty ride from bouncing.
I put timbrens on my ranger and it definitely reduces squat. Unfortunately it rides rougher when empty.
Hey Dan
The RAS kit for the 2019+ just came available. I should have it installed by the weekend.
@@TheTaylorfam1988 Cool
Timbrens do not ride rough. They do not engage empty, only when you add payload to your truck. That's the only time timbrens engage. Otherwise, you're just driving stock, with 2" clearance between your bed frame and timbrens. Timbrens do not affect your empty ride at all.
Thanks for the review👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
You're welcome
Seems like a no brainer to get these for a 1/2 ton truck, but I'm not sure how effective they will be with 3/4 or 1 ton truck. The springs are already really stiff in an HD truck. I suppose the axle wrap and wheel hop benefits may still be realized there when unloaded.
Another benefit especially for Heavy Duty, is it's always connected to the trucks suspension so Roadmaster can control the empty ride for a smoother ride. I talked about that in the video.
Some 5160 Bilstein shocks will make a massive difference in ride quality. Stock shocks on pickup trucks are usually pretty garbage. They won't help much with squat though. I've been thinking about sumo springs myself but this weird spring looks interesting
I promise you won't be disappointed. I noticed an immediate difference as I went on a 75 mile drive immediately after installing them on my 2021 F150 last weekend. I wasn't towing but I noticed much better handling all around, especially with body roll as I was driving on winding paved roads. Sumo springs won't help much with that at all.
Hello! How well it does work with axle wrap? Nobody has a video records about that from pinion view, and no real proof that it does help. Thank you for great video reviews!
Thanks, I think it prevents axle wrap controlling how much the factory leaf spring moves or curls. Wheel hop you can see out your mirrors
I'm interested to know how the roadmaster system has stood up to the test of time.
They are great at one year this month. They have been around for many decades, there are comments here on what owners think fo them.
What is a better combination:
Sumosprings and a distribution or
Roadmaster suspension and distribution hitch?
Roadmaster and WDH
Will a roadmaster and a distribution hitch be a good combo?
Sure if you lift the rear of the truck to level out truck and trailer, Roadmaster will help give you tractions. We use and Sell Active Suspension
Great video. I have a 2020 Chevrolet 2400HD Duramax. I have a 5th wheel rhats about 15500. Your opinion would you go with RAS or bags and or Summos?
Thanks, What I like about RAS, it's adjustable and since it's always touching, it will improve your trucks empty ride. Sumo, doesn't touch anything when you're unloaded. I like factory air ride, just not fond of aftermarket air systems
How would the sumo and RAS work with both on them
I have the same RAS and love the way it helps with hailing my travel trailer and empty
My trailer is 8,500 and it basically eliminates any porpusing and helps in high winds
WIth the RAS, you wouldn't need the SUMO which only works when loaded
How do these work when offroad? Does it hang up the supension any? Thinking about these for a ford tremor.
They work well and cushion well even when the truck is empty
If I have a camper mounted to my pickup and I go off road, Is the Roadmaster going to make the truck sway more when off camber Or does it make contact better then too?
It will improve the handling, less squat and lean
@@MrTruckTV Thank you
which would be better distribution with the anti sway or these? Can they be used in conjunction of each other?
Yes you can use both together. If your biggest problem is trailer sway go with a WDH like Andersen, mrtruck.com/wdh.htm
Long awaited review. Can you test a heavy load?
As soon as I can
Sumo was built to work only when loaded. You get to keep ur natural ride that way when not loaded.
OK
Mr truck, so it sounds like you recommend the springs over the sumo springs now correct? But the sumo spring are great and will work nice for pulling a camper? Maybe the nkue summons spring would be perfect for an 150 with a great ride and squat combo?
They both work well as an overload, leveling the truck. But Roadmaster Active Suspension does better at improving the empty truck ride
@@MrTruckTV let's say I have a 6000 lbs travel trailer pulling with a 2017 f150. If you get the truck level with wdh, is there a point to get sumo springs? I mean they would help with the sway from side to side in the truck and make it feel more stable towing or am I not thinking about this correct?
@@whosnext2005 First I would try the WDH. 2nd if the lift from the WDH causes your truck to loose traction, then yes add an overload of some kind.
Does this Roadmaster Active Suspension works well For a 1/2 ton trucks especially when towing car hauler trailers
Yes in the review video, the truck I'm using is my 2018 F150 Ecoboost
I have a 2011 f150 5.0 3.55 gears 4x4. I'll be pulling a 8,000 lb inclosed trailer 1500 miles this summer. The truck is capable of that load but the previous owner installed a leveling kit so anytime I hook up a trailer the squat looks terrible. I'm hoping the RAS and a weight distribution hitch will help out. I also live up North and traction in snow isn't the best with such a light rear-end. I wonder if the RAS will help with traction? I do run a dedicated snow tire which is a night and day difference from an all season tire. I also farm and the rear end gets pretty loose hitting washboards.
Generally, if you start with a WDH, and that lifts up the rear of the truck, then you put the overloads on to give you traction. Just the weight of the trailer tongue by itself should give you traction. But the RAS and a Andersen WDH is a good combination. I sell Andersen and very soon I'll be selling RAS. I like to find the good products and sell what I use on MrTruck.com
I'm searching and can't find an explanation or answer. I just purchased a new 1 ton dually. When I drop our new to us 16,000lb.+ 5th wheel, the rear end drops and it's riding on the overload springs. The ride was perfectly fine ,so that is not an issue. Question 1: is it bad to be on the overload?
Question 2: if it is bad, is the purpose of the Sumo Springs to relieve this?
That's pretty common, it just means you're using all your springs. Is it level or star gazing? If you aren't level, then you may need helper springs, like SUMO
I'm level. Just wasn't sure if it was OK or not.
I appreciate your knowledge and answer. Thank you.
You're welcome
I have timbrens on my 21 ranger, love them great Canadian product and coming from a 19 f350 use to a rough ride, having said that after this video the next truck(I trade often) gonna try roadmaster.. Keep up the great reviews Kent
Thanks
Can I keep my Timbrens on and add the RAS to my tundra for eliminating squat when towing my travel trailer ?
You could if the Timbrens are where the bump stops were. I think the RAS would be sufficient
@@MrTruckTV Timbrens are like sumo springs but have no give.
@@onelik yeah thats the problem with Timbrens and Sumo's, they only work loaded. RAS always have contact so that's why they help the empty ride
I tried timbrens on my 13 tundra and since added the RAS system. I kept the timbrens installed and have no issues while towing my toy hauler. The RAS system is a game changer.
Wasted my money on Timbrens. Bought Roadmaster and love the ride. No more squat pulling horse trailer with an F-150.
Did u leave timbrens and added roadmaster? That’s what I’m going to do on my titan this week
@@trykuct didn't have clearance for Roadmaster brackets with Timbrens. Depends on individual truck I guess.
Will either one help you with your payload capacity? I'm looking to increase my payload capacity by 300 to 500lbs. Is there anything that will help me do that?
They will help with stability and keeping truck with trailer level. Only the truck manufacture of the truck can change payload and trailer capacity
How about running both?
That possible, don't think it's necessary.
That poor watch during the install. great review besides that haha
Thanks
Why did you choose the RAS over airbags?
Cheaper, easier to install. Unless you buy the most expensive air bag kit, you have to manually lower the air pressure when you aren't loaded or it's a very rough ride
So would you prefer these or sumos?
Roadmaster, they help with truck empty rice. Sumo's don't touch the axle when the truck is empty
I have SumoSprings on my Tundra and am considering replacing them with RAS. I don’t have my old bump stops either, so I would like to keep my existing SumoSprings as bump stops. How did you cut down your SumoSprings to perform as bump stops when installing RAS?
Reciprocating saw
@@MrTruckTV Perfect
I need these just for Louisville roads🙄
Yes sir, bad roads are everywhere
The roadmaster
yes
I'm on my third or fourth RAS. Every time I get a different truck, it gets a new RAS.
I'm learning how popular they are.
I use supersprings on my leaf spring suspension.
Very informative, thanks for the info. I have them on order now. BTW... how do you work wearing that birdhouse of a watch?
Great, you know I sell Roadmaster, I use smaller watches now, the 52 mm will wear your shirt cuffs
Excellent Video and review. You took the time and made the install look easy. I especially liked how you figured out how they work and why they are effective. Question though; Did you consider leaving the Sumo Springs in place with the RAS? For example, not cutting them.
Well the problems was I was testing the RAS and Sumo separately. I threw away the Ford bump stops so I needed a bump stop. I think using they together would be too stiff and for a good empty ride, you want some wheel Travel.
I have a 1500 pound camper permanently installed on my 1/2 ton and I have the RAS along with a purple Sumo Spring (softer that black). I really like them together, especially on curves and turns.
My 1 ton dullay drives like a sports car if you tail gate me I will lite it up on exit ramps and they drive crazy trying to keep up with the dual lay and it’s funny as hell when they lose their shit trying to keep up with a dullay and they are bad ass on a drivers course ..
I can see some of the advantage, but realistically, different shocks will affect unladen ride even more than these. On rapid small bumps ( up to about pot hole sized) you will want a digressive valve setup for control, on large, undulating bumps with significant travel a linear valve setup for comfort. For making sweet jumps on the sledgehammer, you want a bypass linear or progressive valve unit so you don't break your spine. For your mostly chattered dirt roads out on the Kansas-lite part of CO, I recommend a cheap set of Bilstein 5100s or even Eibach pro truck units (Which I'm not convinced aren't just a Bilstein 5100 design, considering Eibach makes all of their springs) Regardless, a monotube unit is FAR superior in longevity than a twin tube in the rough stuff. As far as ride height control, I like Sumos myself. They are cheap, and also helpful as poor man's hydro bump stops on really nasty roads. Half of the reason I got the shackle lift was to tame the overly stiff rear leafs on my Ranger, adding travel and clearance and Roadmasters would just compound the issue. Yours is primarily a tow rig, so it makes a ton of sense for your setup.
If your springs are already too stiff, all towing suspension boosters (airbags, add a leafs, rubber springs, etc) will make it worse by going in the wrong direction; you could technically extend the spring to soften it, but that adds a world of reliability issues, so replacing with a softer setup is needed.
As far as these, they will never be as good as custom shocks for dampening and a specific rubber bump stop tuned for one specific weight; however, the big benefit is that they are more well rounded, improving the ride unladen while also improving the ride with a heavy load and being adjustable on top of that. They are a do everything better solution, instead of a do this specific thing best solution that non-adjustable shocks and a non-adjustable sumo spring offers.
If I was always using it with light loads on a rough road or farm, I would go with custom shocks. If I was always towing the same load or hauling the same weight, I’d go with sumo springs and different custom shocks. However, I am changing my use case all the time, with different loads between empty and max capacity throughout the year, and with often random loads in trailers; this solution is best for that situation (IMHO) because it can improve on every situation in some manner and requires zero maintenance and likely to last forever.
Eibach does not offer shocks for the f150 with the HD tow package. Ford has an all new f150 as of 2021, apparently the aftermarket rear shocks you speak of offer less hold up vs stock. This is coming from a eibach sales rep.
@@justinolechowski7442Go with the 5100s. Greatly improves your towing.
Thank you great video on this. How is the long term road test/performance since the time you made this video so far?
All good
It's important to note that the spacer on the end of the bracket needs to be installed up against the bottom of the leaf spring and against the U-Bolts. It needs to be wedged up in the corner there in front of the axle. It looked like the one on the driver's side was not making contact with the leaf, but maybe it was just the camera angle.
Good Advice
I’m going to say timbren
I've used those, Timbren and Sumo Springs only work when loaded. RAS when soften the ride when truck is empty
I have a friend who had RAS installed on her 2021 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 crew cab long wheelbase she transports trailers and fifth wheels all over the US and she swears by this product I just bought a new 2022 Silverado 1500 4X4 crew cab short bed and I'm about to purchase me a set of RAS. ab long wheelbase she transports trailers and fifth wheels all over the US and she swears by this product I just bought a new 2022 Silverado 1500 4X4 crew cab short bed and I'm about to purchase me a set of RAS.
Great, that is why I started selling them: mrtrailer.com/springs.htm