Good video and good content not sure why your not as high up as Chris fix in subscribers😂 may I ask why u needed a new master. On my 04 gt manual I replaced a caliper and can't get it to compress the caliper. my brake bleeder helper aka girlfriend has to leave so I didn't bleed the master. I'm "Notacarguy" or mechanic but I've done brake lines and calipers and a other brake jobs in the past and always got by without a having to bleed the master. There's no air in the lines when I put a clear tube and a bottle to it so should I just order a new master or try to bleed it.
Thank you for the kind words! I love Chris Fix. The reason I replaced my Master Cylinder was actually in a last ditch effort to fix a brake problem. I tried rebuilding the calipers and that didn't work so I replaced all 4 with remanufactured calipers from Rock Auto. They failed in the exact same way as the old ones so I somehow convinced myself that it could be the master cylinder. It turns out that the new calipers were faulty. I bought a new one to test and worked! As far as bleeding the Master, honestly, I have to do it every dang time I bleed the brakes. If your caliper isn't compressing and your brake pedal is basically going to the floor without any pushback, the first thing I would do is bleed the master. It is is odd that you haven't had to in the past, but definitely try before you go throwing money at anything like me. haha
@@notacarguy_ got it everything back to normal it was weird I could of swore there was no air in the system but there must of been some in the master. After bleeding it it works great I would have thought the master was shot because no where else on the internet says to bleed ur master after changing calipers.
Man how did you get the lower 14mm bolt off? That’s where I’m stuck. Also the studs on mine are also longer than the oem one, did this cause any issues? Did the bolts fit on the new units studs?
There is a little bit of space to the left of the cylinder. You need to have 2 wrenched (one ratcheting preferably). Put one wrench on the nut, then you need to have a wrench on the back side to keep it from turning. It's going to be small turns, but you'll get there eventually. I believe the bolts fit, but you should hang on to the old one in case they don't.
@@wrens114 This one is kind of annoying, but there is enough space on the left side of the Master Cylinder. You'll have to use short strokes and just keep working at it. The major thing here is that you'll need to use 2 wrenches. One on the nut and one on the bolt on the backside to keep it from turning. Does that make sense?
That doesn't sound normal. The two main bolts on the side should make it flush, but I could potentially see if the brake lines were bent or too long it might push up on the MS.
Who needs a bottom bolt? haha. I'm impressed that you're paying that close of attention. I do remember it being a pain to get those loose. Not sure why it didn't make it into the edit. Sorry about that.
@@notacarguy_ a huge pain in the ass🤣 spent at least a couple hours trying to get something to it and I got it on the bolt but I can’t get a good turn to crack it loose
@@matt3613 I just went out and looked at mine and realized that the thing that's different about the bottom is the hex-shaped head on the bolt. Not sure if you're already doing this, but if you can reach down into the space farside of the fender and put a wrench on the hex end of the bolt for leverage. Then on the small space nearest to the fender, put a wrench on the nut in opposite directions. That way you're putting tension on the bolt and the nut. Hopefully that makes up for the tiny space you have to work with.
It looks like you bled it twice. Do you need to do it before and after? This process is confusing. I swapped the cobra stock front brakes and lines with the big brake kit and tried to bleed the brakes with no luck. I’m assuming the m/c has air. Do I take it out to bleed it or do I bleed it installed?
@@323smiles my M/C (on the GT) notoriously needs to be bled even after bleeding the brakes. You might have all the air out of the lines, but if there is air in the M/C, you'll get a mushing brake pedal. get the air out of the M/C and it should firm up. The M/C for the GT actually has bleeder valves on it so you can bleed after install. You may be able to get away with just bleeding it once, after you've installed it an bled the brakes. I went through the pre-bleed because that's what most people say to do, but it might not be necessary.
Nice video bro, definitely helped me drop a new master cylinder in today. That tip on the flair nut wrench was a lifesaver!
Glad to hear it helped!
Good video and good content not sure why your not as high up as Chris fix in subscribers😂 may I ask why u needed a new master. On my 04 gt manual I replaced a caliper and can't get it to compress the caliper. my brake bleeder helper aka girlfriend has to leave so I didn't bleed the master. I'm "Notacarguy" or mechanic but I've done brake lines and calipers and a other brake jobs in the past and always got by without a having to bleed the master. There's no air in the lines when I put a clear tube and a bottle to it so should I just order a new master or try to bleed it.
Thank you for the kind words! I love Chris Fix. The reason I replaced my Master Cylinder was actually in a last ditch effort to fix a brake problem. I tried rebuilding the calipers and that didn't work so I replaced all 4 with remanufactured calipers from Rock Auto. They failed in the exact same way as the old ones so I somehow convinced myself that it could be the master cylinder. It turns out that the new calipers were faulty. I bought a new one to test and worked!
As far as bleeding the Master, honestly, I have to do it every dang time I bleed the brakes. If your caliper isn't compressing and your brake pedal is basically going to the floor without any pushback, the first thing I would do is bleed the master. It is is odd that you haven't had to in the past, but definitely try before you go throwing money at anything like me. haha
@@notacarguy_ got it everything back to normal it was weird I could of swore there was no air in the system but there must of been some in the master. After bleeding it it works great I would have thought the master was shot because no where else on the internet says to bleed ur master after changing calipers.
@@sams7078 Glad it worked! I learned that tip from a dude on Instagram. haha.
Man how did you get the lower 14mm bolt off? That’s where I’m stuck. Also the studs on mine are also longer than the oem one, did this cause any issues? Did the bolts fit on the new units studs?
There is a little bit of space to the left of the cylinder. You need to have 2 wrenched (one ratcheting preferably). Put one wrench on the nut, then you need to have a wrench on the back side to keep it from turning. It's going to be small turns, but you'll get there eventually.
I believe the bolts fit, but you should hang on to the old one in case they don't.
How do you get the bottom nut off. I can't find the room to do it
Are you talking about the bottom nut that connects the MC to the Hydraulic Booster?
Oh holy smokes yeah
@@wrens114 This one is kind of annoying, but there is enough space on the left side of the Master Cylinder. You'll have to use short strokes and just keep working at it. The major thing here is that you'll need to use 2 wrenches. One on the nut and one on the bolt on the backside to keep it from turning. Does that make sense?
For some reason my master cylinder doesnt sit flush with the hydraulic. Only after i tight the bolts is that normal?
That doesn't sound normal. The two main bolts on the side should make it flush, but I could potentially see if the brake lines were bent or too long it might push up on the MS.
Didn’t show the part getting where you get the 2nd bottom bolt off
Who needs a bottom bolt? haha. I'm impressed that you're paying that close of attention. I do remember it being a pain to get those loose. Not sure why it didn't make it into the edit. Sorry about that.
@@notacarguy_ a huge pain in the ass🤣 spent at least a couple hours trying to get something to it and I got it on the bolt but I can’t get a good turn to crack it loose
@@matt3613 I just went out and looked at mine and realized that the thing that's different about the bottom is the hex-shaped head on the bolt. Not sure if you're already doing this, but if you can reach down into the space farside of the fender and put a wrench on the hex end of the bolt for leverage. Then on the small space nearest to the fender, put a wrench on the nut in opposite directions. That way you're putting tension on the bolt and the nut. Hopefully that makes up for the tiny space you have to work with.
Where can I get the caps that plug the bottom of the M/C?
I'm not sure where you can get spares. I believe mine came with the new M/C.
It looks like you bled it twice. Do you need to do it before and after? This process is confusing. I swapped the cobra stock front brakes and lines with the big brake kit and tried to bleed the brakes with no luck. I’m assuming the m/c has air. Do I take it out to bleed it or do I bleed it installed?
@@323smiles my M/C (on the GT) notoriously needs to be bled even after bleeding the brakes. You might have all the air out of the lines, but if there is air in the M/C, you'll get a mushing brake pedal. get the air out of the M/C and it should firm up. The M/C for the GT actually has bleeder valves on it so you can bleed after install. You may be able to get away with just bleeding it once, after you've installed it an bled the brakes. I went through the pre-bleed because that's what most people say to do, but it might not be necessary.