Great job! I’ve spent the past two days trying to get sorted on chain saw chains and you did it in a few minutes! If you ever do a retake, you might add safety chains with the rolled over depth gauges. Those really confused me when I went to sharpen my Husky 455 factory chain for the first time. I was like, “WTH how do I adjust my depth with these things? Ultimate answer, “you don’t!” I only sharpened it once before it became a POS. Lesson learned. Might help others to know. Thanks again!
Let me tell you something Mr Wood Chip Man, I have no freaking idea where you come off making a video like this. No stupid music, no off topic drivel that has nothing to do with the subject, how dare you be informative, and short and to the point. I am surprised your are not in You Tube jail. This is one of the best videos I have seen! Thanks for clearing up couple misconceptions I had.
Very nice video. Very well explained. All tree service ground crews need to watch this. Extremely informative. Many blessings to you and yours. Be safe
Fantastic explanation. As a home owner who likes to do my own work and learn about my tools and their usage, this was an excellent and simply done explanation. Thank you.
Thank you!! I was wondering what applications a skip tooth chain was used on. I was also trying to figure out what all the graduations were for on the multi tool. Great explanations on all you talked about.
I came for supplementary info. in regards to concrete and metal cutting blades and the fire and rescue chain is what I needed. Great video. I learned 10x more than I needed and that is awesome!
Thank you Sir for your presentation ,very professional and no fat in the information. Not many people earn a subscription so I’m sure I’ll see you again . Take care and God bless
Great video as usual ! Glad I found your videos on here, enjoy them all. Cool too we are in the same area, Arnold/Imperial here.Just got 2 new MS 271's, 18" and 20". Your MS 261 cm was a awesome video, thinking about trying to sell one of my 271's, brand new in case, only started once, never cut, and getting a 261.
Just wanted to say I saw some of your early videos as I was starting to go full time with my lawn care/Landscaping and they were helpful. Now I've been trying to learn all I can about arboriculture as to introduce it too into my skill set. Damned if I didn't stumbled across you again, you mentioned"Art's", I thought no way.. looking through more vids, you too are in florissant/n. county area. Small world. Anyway,great job with your channel !! I'd like to be able to "pick your brain" on this subject matter somehow. Apologies for the rambling & keep up the great work. btw if you wind up cluttered with any Stihl freebies from reviews feel free to hollar I'll brt. lol
Yes sir, live right here in florissant. Feel free to ask any questions you have. I'd love to be able to get freebies/discounts, fact is though that the majority of the stuff I work with is either the companies I work for, or begged/borrowed from others. Channel isn't big enough yet to get demo stuff from the companies, I emailed a Husqvarna dealer about working out a mutually beneficial partnership, and never heard back =(. Hopefully in time I'll be able to get some demo stuff to play with.
Lon Lowrey, I'm still learning about chains and bars after 40 years of cutting with chainsaws. I know he said this video wasn't all encompassing, but he never mentioned ripping chain and the kerf.
Curious - how often do you buy a new chain and how often do you buy a new bar for your chain saw? Are you swapping out bar and chain several times a year or much less?
Why would there be 18" chains offered on 62 or 72 drive links with the same 3/8" gauge? Would it all come down to manufacturing differences with the machine distance from drive gear to tip of bar?
I've read square ground chain actually stays sharp longer than round ground. This is because there is more metal supporting the edges and corner. I've never cut with a square ground chain so I can't say if this holds true in daily use. Unfortunately the only grinders I've heard of to sharpen square chain are no longer made. The company, Silvey, went out of business. Sharpening square with a file I've read is difficult to do by eye and requires a jig to do well.
ChaparralDenizen square ground cuts smoother and faster than round grinded teeth. both seem to dull fairly fast. i can't stand semi chisel, but it does seem to be more forgiving if you run your tip in the dirt and filing mistakes. im good at round filing, ok at chisel filing, but i prefer to use ground chisel chain for my job as a timber faller.
Had to come back after almost a year and read all the comments. Yep you missed ripping chains. Lol. They could be a whole video in themselves. Carvers are another facet of chains that is rarely touched upon. It's usually the bars that make the difference with carving. If you haven't seen John Reilly's videos your missing some great expertise in chainsaws. He just shows how they cut not how to get them there. Still very interesting. Would love to see more on square cut chisel chain and sharpening with beveled file and square file. Keep up the great work.
Hey man great viedeo. So much information and explained the right way. It's also nice for me as a German speaking guy to learn the vocabulary that way, would be horrible looking that stuff up in a dictionary. Just one question to the low profile chains...you say they are not interchangable with the same pitch...i think, i dont agree with that at all...when the ammount of driving links, the pitch und the driving link's width are the same, there is no problem in changing from a normal profile to a lopro chain...or am I wrong? I mean yeah, most lopro chains are really small on the driving link's width, so you can't change them, but if they're not, there should be no problem. Anyway, I really enjoy watching your videos, espescially the one in which you explain the diff between the farming and the pro-worker saws. Ever worked with the 441 C-M? My dealer said, they have so much trouble with the M-Tronic on this thing...bought the 461 an oooh man, that thing is so awesome :) Keep on with your great channel :)
I'm not entirely certain on that lo-pro question. I'm sure you could put a lo-pro on a big saw, not sure about regular 3/8 on a trim saw, maybe?! I've not played with a 441 yet, but know that they've not been available here in the states for a long time now, that might be the issue that they're trying to work out. Use a 440 regularly at work, and do love it. I do run 3 m-tronic saws, 201, 261, and 661, so far I've had nothing but great cutting out of them. I totally need to get my hands on a 461 =)
Hey, I've checked it out, you can put a 3/8 on a trim saw but of course you'll have to change the bar cause the tip bearing and the sprocket has to be changed on 3/8 too. But then your cut gets wider and and I think thats not really reasonable when having only a little power on your trim saw :) Yep, also have the 261 with the M-Tronic. All guys around were saying don't buy that shit, you can do nothing on your own any more and all this blaaaa blaaaa...but the electronics never let me down and runs in all situations. Just love the 261 Yes, you shoul definetly get your hands on the 461, you won't regret that What about the 201? never had the chance to try that thing?
Christof St, I put a Duro3 on my pole saw with 3/8P sprocket and had to change the bar from a 0.043" gauge to a 0.050" gauge but kept the same sprocket and it works perfectly but is very heavy. I also have a 1/4P sprocket with 8" 0.043" gauge bar and chain for a lighter head.
What is the difference between drive links with holes and drive links without holes? I got chains with holes and without holes in the drive links. Thanks
You make it sound like there's no performance difference between the safety chains and the standard chains. Yet every comparison I've ever seen shows a difference in cutting speed/performance on the flat.
Help me out brother. I have a MS171 that isn't getting it done. I need to clear trails in my girls woods for ATVs. It was logged, so there are some big trees down. Not sure what I need to buy.
Thank you for this information video, i appreciate your information on chains, (it helps) i will study this video and take it to heart and take notes,thank you.
Been finding out there are so many tricks and hints to filing and sharpening to create a more aggressive cut etc. More to the science of cutting than I ever thought. The knowledge y'all have is a true help to us weekend warriors.
I got an old partner r12 chainsaw. Can you give any advice about what I should use on this? I believe it is 90cc with a 24ish inch bar🤷♂️. But the last time it was used, it hit some metal spikes or rebar grown into the tree so needless to say it's time for a new chain. Thank you
Soooooo... I have a question Human. Are low kickback chains not suitable for plunge cuts since the humps only stick out as the chain rolls over the nose of the bar?
One of your best vids, watched it twice 👍👏. I’ve used an Optivisor or “jewelers headset” for a very long time - originally purchased to repair jewelry for my wife and two daughters. You wouldn’t believe what your chain looks like through these things, especially sharpening. You can spend as much or as little as you like. $15 to well over $100. 🧐
Been watching your videos for about an hour now trying to decide on my first saw. For now it will be just a saw to throw in the back of the truck to take when I go in the woods hunting or shooting in case of emergency. Also do some side by side off reading. However I would like to keep the possibility of firewood cutting open. What would you suggest as a first saw? Wanting to stick to Stihl.
Not at all, I love older saws. Just be aware that depending on how old it is parts may be an issue. I've not a whole lot of experience with older models, but I generally hear from those that do that the older saws are built better.
Talking about sharpening equipment for carbide tipped chains, we used to use a "green wheel" to sharpen that material in the machine shop. I couldn't remember the composition of the wheel, so I googled it and this came up. "Green silicon carbide wheels are more friable than the black wheels and used for tool and cutter grinding of cemented carbide. Cubic boron-nitride (CBN). Cubic boron-nitride is an extremely hard, sharp and cool cutting abrasive. It is one of the newest manufactured abrasives and 2.5 times harder than aluminum oxide." Proper attribution for the quote goes to americanmachinist.com
anyone know... IF .....its known.. that Stihl mistakenly stamps the wrong inch size on a bar ? I have a ms250 and 024AVS , just bought the 024 and told was 18" and bar states 18" .325 .063 74DL so looked at the MS250 because is was gona order several new chains and it said 18" so i ordered extras only to find that when i put one on the 250 the bar is so far out the outer bolt barley touches the bar !! i laid the tow bars together and one appears to be 1.5 - 2 inches longer, same with old chain and new chain, even when thinking about old chain stretch ....chain appears to be 2 inches longer that old on the 250????????
Okay, I want to ask this. a bit off topic but I haven't found anyone who addresses this question. So I am thinking about buying two saws. one small and one larger and more powerful. So regardless of manufacturer or brand - what two bar lengths make a good combination? In a farm & ranch situation. I am on 16 acres in middle Tennessee, partly wooded with verious trees. Cedar, White Oak, Red Oak, Ash, Box Elder, Osage Orange
Honestly, if you think you'd want a 20" on your large saw, then there's no reason to go with another smaller saw. Just grab a 261 (or equivalent) with a 20" bar, and that is the one saw you'll need. The weight difference in saws between something with a 14" bar, and a 20" bar, isn't significant enough in my opinion to justify having two separate saws. Going into a 25"+ size bar is different, but I think you'll do just fine with one saw.
Human Thanks. well a 261 Sthil was one I was thinking I would get when I was tossing between Sthil & Husquvarna. But somewhat dhifted after a local dealer showed me cs-590. at which time I thought no way to Echo, but after watching tons is videos and foarms on Echo I became much more impressed. The CS- 590 is $399 and has professional qualities from what I hear so far... With that price plus a 5 year warranty on the Echo - would you still suggest the MS-261? Thank again
Calibir1 I have never ran an echo don't know much about them. but I have the 261 with an 18 inch bar love it really light I cut elm and oak with it and chews really well chain is kept sharp as any saw. then my big saw is a 461 stihl I bought it with a 25 inch bar I'm going to a 32 inch bar at some point that way I don't have to bend over as far I know not supposed to use the tip (someone will say) of the saw but when a tree is on the grounds you can't tell me you dont. anyways I'm not a professional but I have been running stihl saws a long time and I like doing stuff the right way. I sell firewood and burn wood 7
my 261 though came with .325 chain and I wanted 3/8 so I didn't need to try and keep track of files so they put a sprocket and bc on so I could have the 3/8 chain.
I have three. 14" small Husquavarna,20" Poulan 3400, and a Husky 394 XP with a 32' bar that is my go to saw. I'm 57 and I bought that Poulan new in 86 and have wore out 5 or 6 bars and countless chains but i just can't take working bent over all the time( too many years a a farrier) and the 32" bar makes it so I don't have to. I'm 6'1" and can cut downed wood with very little stooping, does it way more yep but I let the saw do the work so I'm not manhandling it all the time. If I had to start out again I think I would buy a 395XP and a 16" pro model, stay away from home owner saws. Nothing but agravation.
ms361 24" bar has no info , so do you have a vid on how to know what chain i have on it to buy more? links have 3/8 on some , stihl C on some, m1 on some ???
@@Human1337 yes , thats why im asking , the bar clearly says 18" but putting an 18" chain on the bar, its so far forward its barely touching the first bolt...!! clearly the bar is stamped wrong which is why i asked if any one has had a bar marked wrong.....!!!!
awesome and informative vid buddy. I have a poulan 16" saw I got for cheap what chain type would you recommend to cut fastest with low maintenance? I don't mind paying for good quality. I'm thinking rescue chain?
Rescue chain is super expensive, and not generally all that great if you're cutting wood, they're made to hit metal/brick/etc. I'd stick with a regular full comp chain, and just keep the depth gauges a bit high so it doesn't bite so hard.
I wouldn't. Even taking them a bit too low can cause huge problems. when I first got a set of the 2-in-1 files, I took all of them down too low, chain binds, jumps around, serious kickback hazard, etc.... Was not a fun time
200lbGorilla, ripping chain has a much lower raker than other chains, but you would pretty much ruin any chain that you took them completely off. You couldn't adjust them to the cutter any more.
I always use a hacksaw blade. Rakers should b low enough to just slide. Hacksaw blade under cutter. Just my own experience. Croscutting Simi green FIRE wood. There probably is a proper way. Especially on ripping chains. I have no experience with them btw. But will soon. Just got a Mack 25080cc with gocart carb . I use 112 octane leaded fuel in it with 3' bar.
@@walliehart2055 Now wait a minute, the guy in the video never mentioned "Rakers" and I believe that rakers is more of a common nick name for the "Depth Gauge" right? If so then once you bad back just a little on the cutter then the depth gauge will hold the cutter up to high and not let it cut out the right amount of wood. So you end up with a VERY slow cut and a over heated chain.
@@mwv8408 Yes all my life i have heard depth gage refereed to as rakers. As far as a bad back goes yep . Got 3 vertebrae between shoulders that are square, instead of the normal rounded vertebrae. Doc is clueless. Impact fractures usual reason.my lungs are anouther issue. Lots of scarring from asthma. As a child. At 17 years old my lungs where basically 30% in size and function compared to normal 17 yo lungs. My family Doc at time refused me as a patient because i was working. He said "You wont make it to 21 if you work"Dr. Morgan was wrong . Im 40 still breathing the same Thank GOD . He still refuses to Dr me. You are correct Sir. I have no experience using a ripping chain with rakers. Only cross-cut to cut firewood. I have been lied to all this time. Or maybe my mentor was misinformed also? I think so. My father didn't lie nor do i..
My father told me people only use files if they are out in the woods and they have to sharpen their chain on the field, but if you have i guess a grinding wheel to always use that. His setup has a magnifying glass type lamp thing you would at like a doctors office or something lol. He said to file by hand you make it uneven, you can take too much off and it's a last resort.. I brought a saw for cheap and he was showing me how every tooth was uneven, and one was almost gone? I don't know if it was hit with a rock or the previous owner spent way too much time on one spot with the file. I also have a problem with my crappy saw as well, it's just a 20 inch poland. After like 30-45 minutes of use the chain keeps getting loose at times and i feel like i have to retention it up or it gets caught up in a log or snaps back at me.
thanks for the video. you basically cleared up all the questions i had about chains. I just have one more. If you had an Echo CS400 and were constantly being made fun of. what chain would you put on it to blow a MS250 out of the water? I did the muffler mod and that really helped but this stupid stock chain has to go! I have tried to file it to different angles but I think i just have a garbage chain. it sucked right out of the box.
I must say, you are the most knowledgable person I've seen on UA-cam when it comes to saws. I watch almost all of Wranglerstars videos especially the chainsaw ones and I learned more in this video than any of his. You deserve way more subscribers than you have! Thank you for the informative video and keep up the good work!
Honestly, I use these videos as a way of learning myself. In the navy part of my responsibility as a fire marshal was to train the duty section on damage control topics. I quickly learned that that best way to learn myself, was to teach others. Before filming you're likely to find me scouring the internet on the upcoming topic, lol.
ontarioknivesNS7 because he gives details wranglerstar just points at it for half a second and talks about it he talks about it and gives close up details
Don't ask me why, but I watch a lot of these videos looking for a jewel or two with respect to content/information that will improve an operation, be it felling trees, sharpening chains, reducing the physical stress in completing a task, etc. This is, by far, one of the best videos I've viewed in recent months. Most videos have about 5-10 percent value, the balance being a numbskull on the screen looking to enrich themselves with a bit of advertising revenue. Thank you for the video. Gave me a better understanding of the chain. Now I can go to my local small engine repair shop--who makes up my chains--and have him make some adjustments to the type of chain I'm running (currently using a full skip, full chisel. Always looking for a faster cut! Thanks again.
Great video, we use the 20” carbide tipped rescue chain on our ventmaster, and while it blasts through any combination of asphalt, concrete, glue, and nails, it’s less effective at cutting trees than a chain installed backwards, I don’t know why. Its better to wait for a rig with a tree saw than whip out the ventmaster, because its humiliating vs. a tree, and it has to stay in service with its assigned chain.
Very informative, very much to the point, very distinct narration, very good close ups. Five stars!
Best 12 minutes of my life ever spent. Thank you for adding value to other peoples lives.
Great job! I’ve spent the past two days trying to get sorted on chain saw chains and you did it in a few minutes! If you ever do a retake, you might add safety chains with the rolled over depth gauges. Those really confused me when I went to sharpen my Husky 455 factory chain for the first time. I was like, “WTH how do I adjust my depth with these things? Ultimate answer, “you don’t!” I only sharpened it once before it became a POS. Lesson learned. Might help others to know. Thanks again!
Let me tell you something Mr Wood Chip Man, I have no freaking idea where you come off making a video like this. No stupid music, no off topic drivel that has nothing to do with the subject, how dare you be informative, and short and to the point. I am surprised your are not in You Tube jail. This is one of the best videos I have seen! Thanks for clearing up couple misconceptions I had.
I have plenty of stupid music and off topic rants in other videos lol =)
I know right, the least you could do is have a dog wander into the scene and spend a few minutes talking to it.
I know it's kind of randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Joseph Zayd try Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Cain Connor yup, been watching on FlixZone for since march myself :D
Really appreciate the no-bs video. My goodness, I wish there were more like this!
Very nice video. Very well explained. All tree service ground crews need to watch this. Extremely informative. Many blessings to you and yours. Be safe
Fantastic explanation. As a home owner who likes to do my own work and learn about my tools and their usage, this was an excellent and simply done explanation. Thank you.
Your the most articulate and knowledgeable person I’ve seen . Thanks for this video and giving clear information.
Thank you!! I was wondering what applications a skip tooth chain was used on. I was also trying to figure out what all the graduations were for on the multi tool. Great explanations on all you talked about.
A professional video by a guy who knows his stuff.
Brilliant thanks. Clear, knowledgable and well demonstrated (unlike all the other videos/guides I looked at).
I came for supplementary info. in regards to concrete and metal cutting blades and the fire and rescue chain is what I needed. Great video. I learned 10x more than I needed and that is awesome!
Thank you Sir for your presentation ,very professional and no fat in the information.
Not many people earn a subscription so I’m sure I’ll see you again .
Take care and God bless
Thank you, this exactly the kind of information I was seeking. I definitely know more about chainsaw chains than I did yesterday.
"Poulan!"
That got me rollin'. I saw the illustration and said, "hey that skip tooth is what's on my "Wild Thing," 40cc.
Great video as usual ! Glad I found your videos on here, enjoy them all. Cool too we are in the same area, Arnold/Imperial here.Just got 2 new MS 271's, 18" and 20". Your MS 261 cm was a awesome video, thinking about trying to sell one of my 271's, brand new in case, only started once, never cut, and getting a 261.
Excellent video. As a novice have learned a great deal. Brilliant.
Just wanted to say I saw some of your early videos as I was starting to go full time with my lawn care/Landscaping and they were helpful. Now I've been trying to learn all I can about arboriculture as to introduce it too into my skill set. Damned if I didn't stumbled across you again, you mentioned"Art's", I thought no way.. looking through more vids, you too are in florissant/n. county area. Small world. Anyway,great job with your channel !!
I'd like to be able to "pick your brain" on this subject matter somehow. Apologies for the rambling & keep up the great work. btw if you wind up cluttered with any Stihl freebies from reviews feel free to hollar I'll brt. lol
Yes sir, live right here in florissant. Feel free to ask any questions you have. I'd love to be able to get freebies/discounts, fact is though that the majority of the stuff I work with is either the companies I work for, or begged/borrowed from others. Channel isn't big enough yet to get demo stuff from the companies, I emailed a Husqvarna dealer about working out a mutually beneficial partnership, and never heard back =(. Hopefully in time I'll be able to get some demo stuff to play with.
Excellent , excellent video, thank you. I also picked up the the Poulan remark lol...
Philadelphia checking in. Sick beard!! The video popped up so I'm just commenting to get it thrown through the algorithm again 😂😂👍 LAMB OF GOD!!! 🤘🤘🤘
Good video man,greetings from a fellow arborist in British Columbia 😎
Great job Human.... you are so knowledgeable!!
thanks much, though in all honesty, I had to do a lot of reading before this video.
Lon Lowrey, I'm still learning about chains and bars after 40 years of cutting with chainsaws. I know he said this video wasn't all encompassing, but he never mentioned ripping chain and the kerf.
Very concise never learned so much in twelve minutes thanks
Thank You for sharing your knowledge in such a straight way - great!
I watched a video from a company that makes chain saw blades explain how blades work, but you did a much better job.
Could you do a video on how you break in a new saw? Great chain info. by the way.
You are really a pro. This is a great video. Nice work.
Curious - how often do you buy a new chain and how often do you buy a new bar for your chain saw? Are you swapping out bar and chain several times a year or much less?
I certainly agree with being full of great easily said knowledge... Thanks Human!
The depth gauges are also responsible for crooked cuts if they are filed down too much in certain areas.
man, I just tap my a quickly with my angle grinder.. I am sure they are uneven as all getup
Crooked cut comes from cutters being filed differently left to right. Depth gauges being filed differently causes chatter and grabby chain
Great video that covers a lot about chains.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.
Good on ya!
brilliant. just the right amount of info, no waffle. subscribed
Thanks. I was looking for some answers and you took care of it. Great video.
You did a good explanation on the difference types of chains. Have you considered doing a video on the prober why to break in a new chainsaw?
Will do, now I have an excuse to buy a new saw =)
THIS is the video I have been looking for, Thanks
Why would there be 18" chains offered on 62 or 72 drive links with the same 3/8" gauge? Would it all come down to manufacturing differences with the machine distance from drive gear to tip of bar?
I've read square ground chain actually stays sharp longer than round ground. This is because there is more metal supporting the edges and corner. I've never cut with a square ground chain so I can't say if this holds true in daily use. Unfortunately the only grinders I've heard of to sharpen square chain are no longer made. The company, Silvey, went out of business. Sharpening square with a file I've read is difficult to do by eye and requires a jig to do well.
ChaparralDenizen square ground cuts smoother and faster than round grinded teeth. both seem to dull fairly fast.
i can't stand semi chisel, but it does seem to be more forgiving if you run your tip in the dirt and filing mistakes.
im good at round filing, ok at chisel filing, but i prefer to use ground chisel chain for my job as a timber faller.
Very well done!
Had to come back after almost a year and read all the comments. Yep you missed ripping chains. Lol. They could be a whole video in themselves. Carvers are another facet of chains that is rarely touched upon. It's usually the bars that make the difference with carving. If you haven't seen John Reilly's videos your missing some great expertise in chainsaws. He just shows how they cut not how to get them there. Still very interesting. Would love to see more on square cut chisel chain and sharpening with beveled file and square file. Keep up the great work.
Hey man great viedeo. So much information and explained the right way. It's also nice for me as a German speaking guy to learn the vocabulary that way, would be horrible looking that stuff up in a dictionary.
Just one question to the low profile chains...you say they are not interchangable with the same pitch...i think, i dont agree with that at all...when the ammount of driving links, the pitch und the driving link's width are the same, there is no problem in changing from a normal profile to a lopro chain...or am I wrong?
I mean yeah, most lopro chains are really small on the driving link's width, so you can't change them, but if they're not, there should be no problem.
Anyway, I really enjoy watching your videos, espescially the one in which you explain the diff between the farming and the pro-worker saws.
Ever worked with the 441 C-M? My dealer said, they have so much trouble with the M-Tronic on this thing...bought the 461 an oooh man, that thing is so awesome :)
Keep on with your great channel :)
I'm not entirely certain on that lo-pro question. I'm sure you could put a lo-pro on a big saw, not sure about regular 3/8 on a trim saw, maybe?!
I've not played with a 441 yet, but know that they've not been available here in the states for a long time now, that might be the issue that they're trying to work out. Use a 440 regularly at work, and do love it. I do run 3 m-tronic saws, 201, 261, and 661, so far I've had nothing but great cutting out of them.
I totally need to get my hands on a 461 =)
Hey, I've checked it out, you can put a 3/8 on a trim saw but of course
you'll have to change the bar cause the tip bearing and the sprocket has
to be changed on 3/8 too. But then your cut gets wider and and I think
thats not really reasonable when having only a little power on your trim
saw :)
Yep, also have the 261 with the M-Tronic. All guys around were saying don't buy that shit, you can do nothing on your own any more and all this blaaaa blaaaa...but the electronics never let me down and runs in all situations. Just love the 261
Yes, you shoul definetly get your hands on the 461, you won't regret that
What about the 201? never had the chance to try that thing?
Christof St, I put a Duro3 on my pole saw with 3/8P sprocket and had to change the bar from a 0.043" gauge to a 0.050" gauge but kept the same sprocket and it works perfectly but is very heavy. I also have a 1/4P sprocket with 8" 0.043" gauge bar and chain for a lighter head.
Thank you for sharing ,A Very Descriptive view in plain terms Much appreciated ,fully understood
I HAVE a question what is the difference if there is a rip chain and cross cut?
What is the difference between drive links with holes and drive links without holes? I got chains with holes and without holes in the drive links. Thanks
That cleared up a lot of questions ... tks
No problem, thanks for watching =)
Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a semi skip, semi chisel chain?
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge, I have come away a lot wiser. Regards
You make it sound like there's no performance difference between the safety chains and the standard chains. Yet every comparison I've ever seen shows a difference in cutting speed/performance on the flat.
Very good information, thanks for the video!
What's the difference between a ripping and cross cutting chain?
Yer some chains heard of never seen. Great vid learnt alot cheers'
I needed this video.ha.I learned alot.
Help me out brother. I have a MS171 that isn't getting it done. I need to clear trails in my girls woods for ATVs. It was logged, so there are some big trees down. Not sure what I need to buy.
Thank you for this information video, i appreciate your information on chains, (it helps) i will study this video and take it to heart and take notes,thank you.
Thanks so much for this video , truly explains the goods and unnecessarys in chain needs. 👍👍
Glad I could help =)
Been finding out there are so many tricks and hints to filing and sharpening to create a more aggressive cut etc. More to the science of cutting than I ever thought. The knowledge y'all have is a true help to us weekend warriors.
what type of chain i need for cutting along the grain and in grain?
I got an old partner r12 chainsaw. Can you give any advice about what I should use on this? I believe it is 90cc with a 24ish inch bar🤷♂️. But the last time it was used, it hit some metal spikes or rebar grown into the tree so needless to say it's time for a new chain. Thank you
Soooooo... I have a question Human. Are low kickback chains not suitable for plunge cuts since the humps only stick out as the chain rolls over the nose of the bar?
Dude, have I mentioned that you’re awesome? Cuz you are!
What’s the difference between C85, H83 and C83?
One of your best vids, watched it twice 👍👏. I’ve used an Optivisor or “jewelers headset” for a very long time - originally purchased to repair jewelry for my wife and two daughters. You wouldn’t believe what your chain looks like through these things, especially sharpening. You can spend as much or as little as you like. $15 to well over $100. 🧐
Real Informative and well done! Kudos!
Great full explanation. Thanks.
Been watching your videos for about an hour now trying to decide on my first saw. For now it will be just a saw to throw in the back of the truck to take when I go in the woods hunting or shooting in case of emergency. Also do some side by side off reading. However I would like to keep the possibility of firewood cutting open. What would you suggest as a first saw? Wanting to stick to Stihl.
Of course I'd go with a 261, lol. For what you're wanting it for though, I'd go with a 251 or 271, either one will do you well.
Human does that mean you would stay clear of older generation saws? A buddy of mine suggested an 034 super if I could find one.
Not at all, I love older saws. Just be aware that depending on how old it is parts may be an issue. I've not a whole lot of experience with older models, but I generally hear from those that do that the older saws are built better.
Thanks for the information and breaking it down.
Talking about sharpening equipment for carbide tipped chains, we used to use a "green wheel" to sharpen that material in the machine shop. I couldn't remember the composition of the wheel, so I googled it and this came up.
"Green silicon carbide wheels are more friable than the black wheels and used for tool and cutter grinding of cemented carbide. Cubic boron-nitride (CBN). Cubic boron-nitride is an extremely hard, sharp and cool cutting abrasive. It is one of the newest manufactured abrasives and 2.5 times harder than aluminum oxide."
Proper attribution for the quote goes to americanmachinist.com
whats the difference between a bullet chain and chipper chain
THX I CAN SEND FOLKS HERE NOW LO HEHEHE
haha!
How about ripping chain?
BUCKIN' BILLY I love to see you in the comments!
The mf'n buckin Billy Ray
anyone know... IF .....its known.. that Stihl mistakenly stamps the wrong inch size on a bar ? I have a ms250 and 024AVS , just bought the 024 and told was 18" and bar states 18" .325 .063 74DL
so looked at the MS250 because is was gona order several new chains and it said 18" so i ordered extras only to find that when i put one on the 250 the bar is so far out the outer bolt barley touches the bar !! i laid the tow bars together and one appears to be 1.5 - 2 inches longer, same with old chain and new chain, even when thinking about old chain stretch ....chain appears to be 2 inches longer that old on the 250????????
Does it take a special chain to make plunge cuts?
nope
Okay, I want to ask this. a bit off topic but I haven't found anyone who addresses this question.
So I am thinking about buying two saws. one small and one larger and more powerful. So regardless of manufacturer or brand - what two bar lengths make a good combination? In a farm & ranch situation. I am on 16 acres in middle Tennessee, partly wooded with verious trees. Cedar, White Oak, Red Oak, Ash, Box Elder, Osage Orange
Honestly, if you think you'd want a 20" on your large saw, then there's no reason to go with another smaller saw. Just grab a 261 (or equivalent) with a 20" bar, and that is the one saw you'll need. The weight difference in saws between something with a 14" bar, and a 20" bar, isn't significant enough in my opinion to justify having two separate saws. Going into a 25"+ size bar is different, but I think you'll do just fine with one saw.
Human Thanks.
well a 261 Sthil was one I was thinking I would get when I was tossing between Sthil & Husquvarna. But somewhat dhifted after a local dealer showed me cs-590. at which time I thought no way to Echo, but after watching tons is videos and foarms on Echo I became much more impressed. The CS- 590 is $399 and has professional qualities from what I hear so far... With that price plus a 5 year warranty on the Echo - would you still suggest the MS-261?
Thank again
Calibir1 I have never ran an echo don't know much about them. but I have the 261 with an 18 inch bar love it really light I cut elm and oak with it and chews really well chain is kept sharp as any saw. then my big saw is a 461 stihl I bought it with a 25 inch bar I'm going to a 32 inch bar at some point that way I don't have to bend over as far I know not supposed to use the tip (someone will say) of the saw but when a tree is on the grounds you can't tell me you dont. anyways I'm not a professional but I have been running stihl saws a long time and I like doing stuff the right way. I sell firewood and burn wood 7
my 261 though came with .325 chain and I wanted 3/8 so I didn't need to try and keep track of files so they put a sprocket and bc on so I could have the 3/8 chain.
I have three. 14" small Husquavarna,20" Poulan 3400, and a Husky 394 XP with a 32' bar that is my go to saw. I'm 57 and I bought that Poulan new in 86 and have wore out 5 or 6 bars and countless chains but i just can't take working bent over all the time( too many years a a farrier) and the 32" bar makes it so I don't have to. I'm 6'1" and can cut downed wood with very little stooping, does it way more yep but I let the saw do the work so I'm not manhandling it all the time. If I had to start out again I think I would buy a 395XP and a 16" pro model, stay away from home owner saws. Nothing but agravation.
EXCELLENT video, thank you!
Carbide chain..where do i get it? I tried amazon n didnt find any..
dealer
ms361 24" bar has no info , so do you have a vid on how to know what chain i have on it to buy more? links have 3/8 on some , stihl C on some, m1 on some ???
look on the bar, all the info is lazer engraved on it
@@Human1337 yes , thats why im asking , the bar clearly says 18" but putting an 18" chain on the bar, its so far forward its barely touching the first bolt...!! clearly the bar is stamped wrong which is why i asked if any one has had a bar marked wrong.....!!!!
@@topflight2358 18" isn't the size of the chain, chains are measured in drive links, will be shown as DL on the the bar like x55 DL = 55 drive links
Great video. Can you do a video on filling a square ground chain?
Once I learn how, lol.
Ha! I guess we can learn together. I'll be picking up my first square ground chain soon. 👍
awesome and informative vid buddy. I have a poulan 16" saw I got for cheap what chain type would you recommend to cut fastest with low maintenance? I don't mind paying for good quality. I'm thinking rescue chain?
Rescue chain is super expensive, and not generally all that great if you're cutting wood, they're made to hit metal/brick/etc. I'd stick with a regular full comp chain, and just keep the depth gauges a bit high so it doesn't bite so hard.
I run skip tooth on everything 3/8. And they cut just as fast. Stay just as sharp just as long but sharpen faster.
Whats your opinion on filing the rakers off?
I wouldn't. Even taking them a bit too low can cause huge problems. when I first got a set of the 2-in-1 files, I took all of them down too low, chain binds, jumps around, serious kickback hazard, etc....
Was not a fun time
200lbGorilla, ripping chain has a much lower raker than other chains, but you would pretty much ruin any chain that you took them completely off. You couldn't adjust them to the cutter any more.
I always use a hacksaw blade. Rakers should b low enough to just slide. Hacksaw blade under cutter. Just my own experience. Croscutting Simi green FIRE wood. There probably is a proper way. Especially on ripping chains. I have no experience with them btw. But will soon. Just got a Mack 25080cc with gocart carb . I use 112 octane leaded fuel in it with 3' bar.
@@walliehart2055
Now wait a minute, the guy in the video never mentioned "Rakers" and I believe that rakers is more of a common nick name for the "Depth Gauge" right? If so then once you bad back just a little on the cutter then the depth gauge will hold the cutter up to high and not let it cut out the right amount of wood. So you end up with a VERY slow cut and a over heated chain.
@@mwv8408 Yes all my life i have heard depth gage refereed to as rakers. As far as a bad back goes yep . Got 3 vertebrae between shoulders that are square, instead of the normal rounded vertebrae. Doc is clueless. Impact fractures usual reason.my lungs are anouther issue. Lots of scarring from asthma. As a child. At 17 years old my lungs where basically 30% in size and function compared to normal 17 yo lungs. My family Doc at time refused me as a patient because i was working. He said "You wont make it to 21 if you work"Dr. Morgan was wrong . Im 40 still breathing the same Thank GOD . He still refuses to Dr me.
You are correct Sir. I have no experience using a ripping chain with rakers. Only cross-cut to cut firewood. I have been lied to all this time. Or maybe my mentor was misinformed also? I think so. My father didn't lie nor do i..
Is it possible for you to do a video on how to find the master link on saw chain?
Great video, thank you!
Thank You Great knowledge
great video human
thank you much =)
Great video
Thank you
Thanks
Thank you!
My father told me people only use files if they are out in the woods and they have to sharpen their chain on the field, but if you have i guess a grinding wheel to always use that. His setup has a magnifying glass type lamp thing you would at like a doctors office or something lol. He said to file by hand you make it uneven, you can take too much off and it's a last resort.. I brought a saw for cheap and he was showing me how every tooth was uneven, and one was almost gone? I don't know if it was hit with a rock or the previous owner spent way too much time on one spot with the file. I also have a problem with my crappy saw as well, it's just a 20 inch poland. After like 30-45 minutes of use the chain keeps getting loose at times and i feel like i have to retention it up or it gets caught up in a log or snaps back at me.
thanks for the video. you basically cleared up all the questions i had about chains. I just have one more. If you had an Echo CS400 and were constantly being made fun of. what chain would you put on it to blow a MS250 out of the water? I did the muffler mod and that really helped but this stupid stock chain has to go! I have tried to file it to different angles but I think i just have a garbage chain. it sucked right out of the box.
Great video bro thanks!!
Loved the explanation on the anti-kickback mechanism. I've always wondered how that functioned.
I must say, you are the most knowledgable person I've seen on UA-cam when it comes to saws. I watch almost all of Wranglerstars videos especially the chainsaw ones and I learned more in this video than any of his. You deserve way more subscribers than you have! Thank you for the informative video and keep up the good work!
Honestly, I use these videos as a way of learning myself. In the navy part of my responsibility as a fire marshal was to train the duty section on damage control topics. I quickly learned that that best way to learn myself, was to teach others. Before filming you're likely to find me scouring the internet on the upcoming topic, lol.
Human were you a DC
HT on a tin can, in port fire marshall
ontarioknivesNS7 because he gives details wranglerstar just points at it for half a second and talks about it he talks about it and gives close up details
Much respect for your passion, style, and overcoming difficulties. Keep em coming!
My ears were tickled with joy when you said depth gauge and not raker....Thank you
Canadian Tree I know I was confused because I call it the raker
Canadian Tree, some call it the drag, and there are probably many other names.
I guess it's whatever you are taught in your part of the country. Do you like corn dogs or pronto pups? lake or reservoir?
I hate when people call it a depth gauge, a gauge is for measuring, it doesn't measure anything
those are rakers
Been using all these for years. And I just learnt a lot. Filled in some of my many grey areas in the ol cranium. Cheers mate.
Thank you Human, I've been useing chainsaws for years, you have just thought me more about chains in 10 mins than I knew for how my whole life, 😊
I miss these vids
You mean the good informative ones before he lost his shit?
@@robertatkins272 yes
i enjoyed the vid ty for the time and effort of making and sharing
"is stupid.....Poulan" lolololol
i have some dope poulan products XD
Yeah that made me laugh too. Brilliant
Don't ask me why, but I watch a lot of these videos looking for a jewel or two with respect to content/information that will improve an operation, be it felling trees, sharpening chains, reducing the physical stress in completing a task, etc. This is, by far, one of the best videos I've viewed in recent months. Most videos have about 5-10 percent value, the balance being a numbskull on the screen looking to enrich themselves with a bit of advertising revenue.
Thank you for the video. Gave me a better understanding of the chain. Now I can go to my local small engine repair shop--who makes up my chains--and have him make some adjustments to the type of chain I'm running (currently using a full skip, full chisel. Always looking for a faster cut! Thanks again.
Well done. Good vid man.
Great video, we use the 20” carbide tipped rescue chain on our ventmaster, and while it blasts through any combination of asphalt, concrete, glue, and nails, it’s less effective at cutting trees than a chain installed backwards, I don’t know why. Its better to wait for a rig with a tree saw than whip out the ventmaster, because its humiliating vs. a tree, and it has to stay in service with its assigned chain.
You’re a star now buddy, like I said the best is yet to come! Just Simply done and laid out a lot of missing info for people.
👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
This was great to help me understand chain types and applications in plain English. Thx!