Good afternoon from my mechanical background the fork is better thanthe ball and pin mechanism. However the plastic joint used on the older Yamaha Horns worked very well and silently too. Something to consider. Plastic is agood sturdy chesper option.
Agreed. Music Medic sells a fork conversion. I’ve never done that. I don’t want to have to refinish keys on this particular saxophone but maybe next time I’ll do a conversion.
I'm looking forward to this shootout, curious about the differences or similarities between these horns, as you know, i own a Keilwerth Toneking, and a Toneking Special, and on alto a Toneking Exclusive, 1973, 1977 and 1986
I am too! Tonekings are great and that’s in my stack. It’s a stencil but a really great playing saxophone that you can purchase for a lot less than a lot of professional saxophones.
If you have a real thin key oil and some thin super glue (Insta-cure), you can put the key oil on the little male end located at the bottom of your side Bb & C that inserts into the ball joint mechanism. Then while working quickly, you can use a needle spring or something to dab a tiny spot of super glue onto the oiled bit and install the key into the posts/ball joint. Then rapidly trill the side key for like 30 seconds. This creates a little super glue sleeve that takes up that tiny bit of room in the ball joint and makes for a nice silencer. It won’t last forever but it’s pretty easy 👍
beautiful horn. I’ve always been curious to play a Mark Vi. I have a Super Action 80 series II I’ve loved for 20 years and recently have a P Mauriat 66r that is also great. Very interesting to be able to compare horns when I get a chance.
They are great. There were several changes over the Mark 6 years so they are all a little different. As long as they are set up properly they are all great.
I had a Mark vi 1972 alto, which I sold. It had an f# key and no engravings. It played nice, but the lower notes would leak even after a service. Ergonomics on it were nice. Have you reviewed a king super 20 silver sonic yet? Do you have any of those for sale ?
I don’t have a Silver Sonic at the moment. Sometimes I get a sax that just won’t hold adjustments and I end up having to overhaul it with new pads that are floated in as well as adjustment materials that hold their shape. It ends up being time consuming and expensive, but great results. Interesting that it didn’t have engraving and a high f# key.
@Scottsmusiccave Looking at the selmer history notes, those saxophones that were not exported to the US sometimes were not engraved, hence it must have been a European horn.
@@marka8274 That make sense. There's a Selmer History page on facebook and if you have your serial number Douglas Pipher can look up where the instrument was originally finished.
Okay, NOW you've got my interest. Very cool.
I got sidelined on this project with customer repairs but I’ll hopefully get back to it soon and post some updates.
Good afternoon from my mechanical background the fork is better thanthe ball and pin mechanism. However the plastic joint used on the older Yamaha Horns worked very well and silently too. Something to consider. Plastic is agood sturdy chesper option.
Agreed. Music Medic sells a fork conversion. I’ve never done that. I don’t want to have to refinish keys on this particular saxophone but maybe next time I’ll do a conversion.
I'm looking forward to this shootout, curious about the differences or similarities between these horns, as you know, i own a Keilwerth Toneking, and a Toneking Special, and on alto a Toneking Exclusive, 1973, 1977 and 1986
I am too! Tonekings are great and that’s in my stack. It’s a stencil but a really great playing saxophone that you can purchase for a lot less than a lot of professional saxophones.
If you have a real thin key oil and some thin super glue (Insta-cure), you can put the key oil on the little male end located at the bottom of your side Bb & C that inserts into the ball joint mechanism. Then while working quickly, you can use a needle spring or something to dab a tiny spot of super glue onto the oiled bit and install the key into the posts/ball joint. Then rapidly trill the side key for like 30 seconds. This creates a little super glue sleeve that takes up that tiny bit of room in the ball joint and makes for a nice silencer. It won’t last forever but it’s pretty easy 👍
Thanks for that. I’ve heard of the superglue trick, but I’ve never had it explained to me.
Sure thing man. I’ve done it on 3 VI’s so far and I’ve yet to have a joint seize up.
beautiful horn. I’ve always been curious to play a Mark Vi. I have a Super Action 80 series II I’ve loved for 20 years and recently have a P Mauriat 66r that is also great. Very interesting to be able to compare horns when I get a chance.
They are great. There were several changes over the Mark 6 years so they are all a little different. As long as they are set up properly they are all great.
I've been interested in using jetset thermoplastic on the side keys of those.
I’m actually not familiar with this. Can you post a link? Thanks
I had a Mark vi 1972 alto, which I sold. It had an f# key and no engravings. It played nice, but the lower notes would leak even after a service. Ergonomics on it were nice. Have you reviewed a king super 20 silver sonic yet? Do you have any of those for sale ?
I don’t have a Silver Sonic at the moment. Sometimes I get a sax that just won’t hold adjustments and I end up having to overhaul it with new pads that are floated in as well as adjustment materials that hold their shape. It ends up being time consuming and expensive, but great results. Interesting that it didn’t have engraving and a high f# key.
@Scottsmusiccave Looking at the selmer history notes, those saxophones that were not exported to the US sometimes were not engraved, hence it must have been a European horn.
@@marka8274 That make sense. There's a Selmer History page on facebook and if you have your serial number Douglas Pipher can look up where the instrument was originally finished.
@@Scottsmusiccave Do you have a website or link where I can find what you're selling?