I just did this on my 05 Cummins. If I was going slow in the neighborhood it would some times hunt for the gear between 1st&2nd gear. It would also shift hard into fifth if I was on the throttle a bit more than normal. This seems to have taken care of the problem. Simple fix! Thanks. 220,000 miles on the truck. Original engine and transmission.
Make sure that locknut stays backed off when tightening the adjustment stud because if it tightens against the case when finding 72 inch pounds it’ll throw off your reading on torque wrench.
I replaced my governor pressure solenoid with the mopar upgrade and went with the bd diesel kit that uses the older style transducer then adjusted the band and so far so good in my 07 Ram 2500
Mike Ferguson same I went with the ats governor upgrade solenoid and bd transducer online from thoroughbred diesel for only $320 or so and makes the truck drive way better and shift properly need to adjust my bands tho
Matthew Murdock Yeah I found the ATS kit after already purchasing the BD diesel one. I believe that is the one that changes the governor pressure solenoid to a Chevy solenoid. If I hadn’t already bought the one that I did I would have went that route. So far the Mopar upgrade is working good though
@@mikef3300 so which kit do you recommend ? I was looking at this for my 2005 3500 dually www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182O7ATE/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A13AUTDWR4ZTG9&psc=1#customerReviews
@@mikef3300 which kit would you recommend for my 2005 3500 dually automatic. ? I was looking at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182O7ATE/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A13AUTDWR4ZTG9&psc=1#customerReviews
Well a little up date. After spending a few dollars, come to find out that the problem was simply the bands. Evidently the person before me didn't know that you have to adjust the bands everytime you do a fluid change. So the one in the tranny was super loose. So far so good.
Just replaced governor, shift solenoid, and another part i think is called transducer? Anyways obviously i had to refill the fluid. Does this mean i have to adjust all bands or just the outer one? Problem with mine is it shifted late or only when letting off the gas
Yeah anytime my 2005 5.9 cummins started in 3rd gear I had a code and said line pressure low and I changed governor solenoid, I did the upgraded ats one but anytime it started in 3rd gear was the solenoid
So you have one of these vans and the transmission was slipping around third gear? So your input is that a band adjustment will not/did not fix said slipping and that it is/was either the governor solenoid/pressure sensor? Having slipping on a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 van.
Sigma XIII yeah it was the governor solenoid, right know my truck is acting up and found out the valve body is bad the valves are sticking and won’t work right, but I adjusted bands and put new governor solenoid in it and it was better
I would like to add if you replace the pressure governor the pressure solenoid you need to change out the amateur spring . Factory springs your weaker they tend to collapse or break. Only had first second every once in awhile third. Now I have 1st 2nd 3rd and overdrive and TCC kicks in great. Hope this helps everyone 🙏.
Im changing my trans fluids on my 2005 3500 5.9... I will also change the pressure governor and solenoid. I was looking at the hd borg. what BRAND SPRING SHOULD i get?
I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 van that starts slipping around 30 mph. Would you recommend I change the pressure sensor and solenoid to fix this? I'm dreading thinking of my van needing all the clutch packs and seals replaced. Appreciate it.
Hey hey , this video...... Well I was gonna say " gave me my hope back" but then like a thief in the night. You took out away!!!... Lol life is funny!!!!
been fixing a buddies 24v that he just drives, but truck is 99 getting old, falling apart, put in new vp44/tierod/upper control arms/ground wire removed from harness, fixed the lockup shuffle. just trying to make it reliable again, not done yet damn thing wont start on a hot engine, like wtf? diesel all start hot until you stick a MOTHERBOARD some place, these computers are like a permanent torture device that is done to you at intervals and they call it MICROSOFT
no flashes but still replacing sensors to give the ecu all the correct data. Air intake Temp sensor is next. the transmission is behaving good now, going to change fluid and filter and do this adjustment next.
the program and gearing on this dodge is funny, the lockup is way to sensitive. needs an off/on button instead of the on/off overdrive, what were these engineers doing? snorting coke high grade back inda day?
You sure there aren't any suction side air leaks or fuel supply system issues causing that no-start? From what I understand, the VP44 pumps are either good or bad and they typically "die" and won't start. And on "modified" trucks with aftermarket "high-performance" supply pumps, its easy to have too much fuel flow (and therefore supply "pressure) to the injection pump which puts fuel through the pump and back to return too quickly to cool the pump and electronic "motherboard" properly. They can also have leaking shaft seals that leak more when hot with the system full of hot, thin fuel that's easier to suck air through. Cummins B engines are also picky as hell about timing and you can't trust the little plunger "timing pin" regardless. Not that they're accurate enough for accurate pump timing down to a gnat's ass anyway. As for heat-related failures, those engines aren't nearly as "electronic" as common-rail engines. The "mother board" is mainly on the pump itself and they are just "electronically-controlled" mechanical pumps that have a couple of pressure control solenoids/valves to vary the fuel flow to the hydraulic head of the pump and to alter timing within a narrow window of about 5 degrees total. If you replaced the VP44 and it still has starting issues when hot, its almost certainly not the injection pump or "ECU" and you could easily have a bad/weak transfer pump (electrical on those trucks with most being block-mounted as far as factory equipment goes but some having a dealer-installed "upgrade" that puts the electric pump in the tank). The electric pump is just a "lift pump" and the primary transfer pump for the injection pump is INSIDE the injection pump. The lift pump is there primarily to get fuel to and through the filter and to "lift" the fuel from the tank and to aid in bleeding the fuel system after filter replacement or when the truck is run out of fuel because those pumps won't tolerate being run "dry". You also can't trust aftermarket "high-performance" electric fuel pump/filter setups that are supposed to be "fuel-air separators" like Air Dogs, etc. In particular Air Dogs are prone to failure where the pump seals leak fuel into the motors and cause all kinds of problems. Including a "hot" no-start situation because the pump isn't running continually or isn't pumping fuel correctly if it is. 99% of the problems with "old trucks" like that are "new mechanics" who don't have the proper tools, experience, information or education to work on them and diagnose them correctly. Throw in aftermarket "high performance" parts that are only "improvements" if properly installed, plumbed, wired, etc and you end up throwing parts at them without having any clue what's actually happening. Its easy to blame "electronics" but rarely do electronic systems last for decades and then suddenly go to shit unless somebody has been "modding" them somewhere. And Dodge pickups and particularly 2nd Gen and newer Cummins trucks are pretty "cheesy" when it comes to the "electronics" and wiring as far as connectors, sizes, etc. They're fine if everything is left STOCK and is properly maintained. Start adding accessories and just tapping into or piggybacking on existing circuits wherever its handy to snap on a Scotch-Lok or connect a power wire and you're just asking for trouble.
So I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 Van that is slipping once my speed is around 30 mph. Can anyone let me know whether a band adjustment will remedy this or is this a problem with the governor solenoid and or pressure sensor?
good morning, I would like to ask you about the tightening of the star bolt, it is done with the hand only when reaching the top ... and then at the end it is released a little to look like the turkish ?????????? I would appreciate help at that point in the video
Im trying to get a 96 1500 ram and the O/D went out. Im thinking i might need to do some of this or replace the speed sensors and or maybe the solenoids. seems to be a fairly common issues i hope one or the other fixes it since im dead broke 24/7
Mark Waltz I know there is another band that can be adjusted, but you have to remove the pan to get to it. I don't remember the specs for it though. I understand that broke business.
Mark Waltz My 2000 RAM 5.2 4X4 gave a code out P-1740 the OD solenoid $102. Wt tax... Not the issue. Fired it up after the new was installed. Engine light was still on with a new code. I can't remember the code bc I did a hard reset the light is off. But it was pointing to the PCM I think under the hood pass. Side. Anyway the code was also pointing to the pressure solenoid A? So idk good luck!!!
ЗДравствуйте не подскажите гранд чироки zj 5.2 акпп 46RH при разгоне 80км переключается 4 скорость и длокировка гидромуфты и начинает вибрация небольша подтяжке лент мне поможет?
it was installed for the car owners complaining about the bang on the first engagement into any drive gear. the restriction kept that bang from happening. sick joke gone full circle!
Have you tried changing your life? It's the only thing that professionals suggest you should always change no matter what the problem or solution is. It's gauranteed that no matter what you do which ever way you could possibly turn the solution will always be that you didn't change your life. Start there.
I just did this on my 05 Cummins. If I was going slow in the neighborhood it would some times hunt for the gear between 1st&2nd gear. It would also shift hard into fifth if I was on the throttle a bit more than normal. This seems to have taken care of the problem. Simple fix! Thanks. 220,000 miles on the truck. Original engine and transmission.
That's awesome!
There is no fifth gear bud
@@steve5912 😂
@@steve5912 you know what he meant. In actuality, it is the 5th gear
Make sure that locknut stays backed off when tightening the adjustment stud because if it tightens against the case when finding 72 inch pounds it’ll throw off your reading on torque wrench.
Also don't take the lock nut all the way off
I replaced my governor pressure solenoid with the mopar upgrade and went with the bd diesel kit that uses the older style transducer then adjusted the band and so far so good in my 07 Ram 2500
Mike Ferguson same I went with the ats governor upgrade solenoid and bd transducer online from thoroughbred diesel for only $320 or so and makes the truck drive way better and shift properly need to adjust my bands tho
Matthew Murdock Yeah I found the ATS kit after already purchasing the BD diesel one. I believe that is the one that changes the governor pressure solenoid to a Chevy solenoid. If I hadn’t already bought the one that I did I would have went that route. So far the Mopar upgrade is working good though
Mike Ferguson oh yeah the ats one is a gm yeah that’s the one I’m using and works way better then oem
@@mikef3300 so which kit do you recommend ? I was looking at this for my 2005 3500 dually www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182O7ATE/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A13AUTDWR4ZTG9&psc=1#customerReviews
@@mikef3300 which kit would you recommend for my 2005 3500 dually automatic. ? I was looking at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182O7ATE/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A13AUTDWR4ZTG9&psc=1#customerReviews
Thanks I see your video yesterday and a ready repair my truck.thanks thanks
Well a little up date. After spending a few dollars, come to find out that the problem was simply the bands. Evidently the person before me didn't know that you have to adjust the bands everytime you do a fluid change. So the one in the tranny was super loose. So far so good.
You might check the 3 - 4 accumulator spring. They get weak and break. About $7.00 plus filter kit and fluid.
Just replaced governor, shift solenoid, and another part i think is called transducer? Anyways obviously i had to refill the fluid. Does this mean i have to adjust all bands or just the outer one? Problem with mine is it shifted late or only when letting off the gas
Yeah anytime my 2005 5.9 cummins started in 3rd gear I had a code and said line pressure low and I changed governor solenoid, I did the upgraded ats one but anytime it started in 3rd gear was the solenoid
So you have one of these vans and the transmission was slipping around third gear? So your input is that a band adjustment will not/did not fix said slipping and that it is/was either the governor solenoid/pressure sensor? Having slipping on a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 van.
Sigma XIII yeah it was the governor solenoid, right know my truck is acting up and found out the valve body is bad the valves are sticking and won’t work right, but I adjusted bands and put new governor solenoid in it and it was better
Mine 5.9 has van started in 3rd and it was ecm
Bummer! Could it be the transmission shifted correctly at first because it was still cold?
Governor solenoid
I forgot to back the t40 but worked on mine so far im afraid if i back it off i wont grab
My 99 dodge ram van was starting ing second too and my ecm was bad
I would like to add if you replace the pressure governor the pressure solenoid you need to change out the amateur spring . Factory springs your weaker they tend to collapse or break. Only had first second every once in awhile third. Now I have 1st 2nd 3rd and overdrive and TCC kicks in great. Hope this helps everyone 🙏.
Im changing my trans fluids on my 2005 3500 5.9... I will also change the pressure governor and solenoid. I was looking at the hd borg. what BRAND SPRING SHOULD i get?
I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 van that starts slipping around 30 mph. Would you recommend I change the pressure sensor and solenoid to fix this? I'm dreading thinking of my van needing all the clutch packs and seals replaced. Appreciate it.
Hey hey , this video...... Well I was gonna say " gave me my hope back" but then like a thief in the night. You took out away!!!... Lol life is funny!!!!
Wow gonna do mine on my zj now
What was the original issue?
been fixing a buddies 24v that he just drives, but truck is 99 getting old, falling apart, put in new vp44/tierod/upper control arms/ground wire removed from harness, fixed the lockup shuffle. just trying to make it reliable again, not done yet damn thing wont start on a hot engine, like wtf? diesel all start hot until you stick a MOTHERBOARD some place, these computers are like a permanent torture device that is done to you at intervals and they call it MICROSOFT
Javy Mcdeez that's crazy. Have you had the computer flashed? I have read that in a few forums.
no flashes but still replacing sensors to give the ecu all the correct data. Air intake Temp sensor is next. the transmission is behaving good now, going to change fluid and filter and do this adjustment next.
Good luck good sir. I hope it works out for you.let me know.
the program and gearing on this dodge is funny, the lockup is way to sensitive. needs an off/on button instead of the on/off overdrive, what were these engineers doing? snorting coke high grade back inda day?
You sure there aren't any suction side air leaks or fuel supply system issues causing that no-start? From what I understand, the VP44 pumps are either good or bad and they typically "die" and won't start. And on "modified" trucks with aftermarket "high-performance" supply pumps, its easy to have too much fuel flow (and therefore supply "pressure) to the injection pump which puts fuel through the pump and back to return too quickly to cool the pump and electronic "motherboard" properly. They can also have leaking shaft seals that leak more when hot with the system full of hot, thin fuel that's easier to suck air through. Cummins B engines are also picky as hell about timing and you can't trust the little plunger "timing pin" regardless. Not that they're accurate enough for accurate pump timing down to a gnat's ass anyway. As for heat-related failures, those engines aren't nearly as "electronic" as common-rail engines.
The "mother board" is mainly on the pump itself and they are just "electronically-controlled" mechanical pumps that have a couple of pressure control solenoids/valves to vary the fuel flow to the hydraulic head of the pump and to alter timing within a narrow window of about 5 degrees total. If you replaced the VP44 and it still has starting issues when hot, its almost certainly not the injection pump or "ECU" and you could easily have a bad/weak transfer pump (electrical on those trucks with most being block-mounted as far as factory equipment goes but some having a dealer-installed "upgrade" that puts the electric pump in the tank). The electric pump is just a "lift pump" and the primary transfer pump for the injection pump is INSIDE the injection pump. The lift pump is there primarily to get fuel to and through the filter and to "lift" the fuel from the tank and to aid in bleeding the fuel system after filter replacement or when the truck is run out of fuel because those pumps won't tolerate being run "dry".
You also can't trust aftermarket "high-performance" electric fuel pump/filter setups that are supposed to be "fuel-air separators" like Air Dogs, etc. In particular Air Dogs are prone to failure where the pump seals leak fuel into the motors and cause all kinds of problems. Including a "hot" no-start situation because the pump isn't running continually or isn't pumping fuel correctly if it is.
99% of the problems with "old trucks" like that are "new mechanics" who don't have the proper tools, experience, information or education to work on them and diagnose them correctly. Throw in aftermarket "high performance" parts that are only "improvements" if properly installed, plumbed, wired, etc and you end up throwing parts at them without having any clue what's actually happening. Its easy to blame "electronics" but rarely do electronic systems last for decades and then suddenly go to shit unless somebody has been "modding" them somewhere. And Dodge pickups and particularly 2nd Gen and newer Cummins trucks are pretty "cheesy" when it comes to the "electronics" and wiring as far as connectors, sizes, etc. They're fine if everything is left STOCK and is properly maintained. Start adding accessories and just tapping into or piggybacking on existing circuits wherever its handy to snap on a Scotch-Lok or connect a power wire and you're just asking for trouble.
Mine has a square instead of the torx
Any advice
So I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 Van that is slipping once my speed is around 30 mph. Can anyone let me know whether a band adjustment will remedy this or is this a problem with the governor solenoid and or pressure sensor?
I replaced both solenoid and sensor and it didn’t solved my slippin .... I will try to replace the torque converter clutch
good morning, I would like to ask you about the tightening of the star bolt, it is done with the hand only when reaching the top ... and then at the end it is released a little to look like the turkish ?????????? I would appreciate help at that point in the video
Im trying to get a 96 1500 ram and the O/D went out. Im thinking i might need to do some of this or replace the speed sensors and or maybe the solenoids. seems to be a fairly common issues i hope one or the other fixes it since im dead broke 24/7
Mark Waltz I know there is another band that can be adjusted, but you have to remove the pan to get to it. I don't remember the specs for it though. I understand that broke business.
Mark Waltz
My 2000 RAM 5.2 4X4 gave a code out P-1740 the OD solenoid $102. Wt tax... Not the issue. Fired it up after the new was installed. Engine light was still on with a new code. I can't remember the code bc I did a hard reset the light is off. But it was pointing to the PCM I think under the hood pass. Side. Anyway the code was also pointing to the pressure solenoid A? So idk good luck!!!
@@Tieknee reverae low pressure band and its 70 inch punds... Your welcome. You have to drop pan
Joe Almaraz thanks for the info. Maybe I'll video that when I service the tranny.
If you use the torque bit you can loosen both at the same time.
So I’ve a ram Nd the problem is that it won’t reverse
what is the thing called that spring is connected too?
Shift linkage?
TV (throttle valve) cable
ЗДравствуйте не подскажите гранд чироки zj 5.2 акпп 46RH при разгоне 80км переключается 4 скорость и длокировка гидромуфты и начинает вибрация небольша подтяжке лент мне поможет?
is there a cooler line restrictions on these trucks?
Javy Mcdeez I have never heard of a cooler line restriction.
the gas dodges had them at the coolers, they would clog and kill units. little plastic filters tossed in the hose
it was installed for the car owners complaining about the bang on the first engagement into any drive gear. the restriction kept that bang from happening. sick joke gone full circle!
Javy Mcdeez What I found to fix the problem was to change the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. It cost $150 and an afternoon to do.
here is the video for the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. Thanks for the idea and watching.
90s Dodge pickup it doesn't like to go forward only in reverse
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6 Foot-pounds Force to Inch-pounds Force = 72
Jonathan Sally
8ft pounds 2 1/2 turns
Putting a truck that heavy on plastic ramps is not a good idea. Just saying.
Have you tried changing your life? It's the only thing that professionals suggest you should always change no matter what the problem or solution is. It's gauranteed that no matter what you do which ever way you could possibly turn the solution will always be that you didn't change your life. Start there.
Try chamging your fluid man
This apply to the SRT-10 Ram transmissions?
Auto Enthused yes