Thanks for NOT hiding the failures and the drops. My heart broke to see Batman's demise. Mainly failures has been my experience until I sorted out a list to remember when using my Saturn 1 printer. 1. Make sure the supports are well done and dont' believe it when they say their supports work when you buy their models! Learn to do it your yourself. 2. When you rescale you have to redo the supports. You CANNOT rescale a model that is already supported! 3. Make sure you level correctly and 4. TIGHTEN those screws! If the build plate ios wobbnly your figures will have very long members. But just as I got good with that I bought Saturn 4 Ultra and I need to calibrate it now to start. Can you do the settings for miniatures both 18mm and 28mm? As well as larger models for your viewers? Ihave subscribed. I appreciate the effort you put in.
If I'm going to have something break, I might as well include it in the video so it's not a complete waste hahahaha. I pretty much use the same settings for everything, they change slightly for big pieces like that Batman bust, but other than that, these are what I use. Layer Height: .05 Bottom Layer Count: 8 Exposure Time: 2.3 Bottom Exposure Time: 35 Transition Layer Count: 6 Transition Type: Linear Waiting Mode: Resting Time Rest Time Before/After Release/After Retract: 1
11:50 - If the Elegoo rook is offset from the center when curing, the bottom will be cured as well. There's a UV light strip on the bottom, but it doesn't reach all the way to the center of the rotating platen.
After posting about the Nepturne 4 plus, I took a look at some of your other posts. _Good on you._ Yea, Sht happens! And always when others are watching. Resin printing is great for those ultra fine detail jobs, but I like the FDM printing whenever possible because there is a much larger range of plastics. And those resins are quite toxic. *Having said that,* here's something to consider _(if you haven't already thought about it)._ WITH GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION GEAR ON, and a well ventilated area _(safety first)_ it is possible to manually paint on, *or dip FDM prints into a vat with resin in it.* Then with a portable, hand held UV light cure it. Do that as many times as you want. I have found this is a very good way to smooth out layer lines, and add structural strength to PLA prints. By "playing" with deviations on that idea, pigments can be introduced. Or simply paint the now smoothed FDM print. (watch out for drips on the job.) *BTW;* The economics of this work out well PLA per Kg is about $18AUD (bulk buy) and Resin (last time I got some) was about $35AUD/Kg _(These are in Australian dollars)_ Peace.
I'll have to give it a crack at some point! I've got some pretty big projects in the works at the moment, so I'll keep it in the back of my mind, cheers!! The cost of resin does hurt the pocket a bit. Buying in bulk is the smart option, providing ya got the cash in the first place, hahaha.
After a lot of trial and error, as well as reading a lot of reddit threads about settings, I eventually settled on these and have been using them a lot lately. Layer Height: .05 Bottom Layer Count: 8 Exposure Time: 2.3 Bottom Exposure Time: 35 Transition Layer Count: 6 Transition Type: Linear Waiting Mode: Resting Time Rest Time Before/After Release/After Retract: 1 I'm using Chitubox to slice everything and send it all over to the printer. If you want to test the exposure settings, I highly recommend doing a Cones of Calibration test from Table Flip Foundry. Hope this helps!
Sorry to see your Batman go a-tumble. Might I suggest you try the Sunlu ABS-like? I use it as standard on my Saturn 3 Ultra, and it rarely fails. But more importantly, it's rock hard, and even falls like that will survive. When my current machine finally dies, I will be looking at the Saturn 4 Ultra. My only gripe is that vat looks like a bitch to clean.
I'll give that a crack when I run out of the standard (still got 5 bottles left on the shelf). I'll probably end up trying a few different brands and types until I find something that works super well. Cleaning the vat isn't too bad, the 2 pouring corners (spouts? Whatever ya wanna call them) make it pretty easy to empty compared to others that are just a basic shape, it's just big and heavy. I haven't had to change the film yet (even though the machine is calibrated to tell you to change it after 6000 layers as I have just found last night)
i just got a saturn 4 ultra a week ago - its my first ever printer. the vat is super easy to clean out imo but what i did do was put an hole in the PFA sheet thinking it was the shipping cover 😂 so i had to buy and replace the PFA and that was super easy too. all in all im super impressed how friendly to use this machine is.
I had a hole in my first printers FEP, didn't realise and had resin seep down on to the screen... don't recommend that! They're pretty easy to replace parts now which is great!
@@nerdvault_42 Well I find the light grey ABS is the go to. It does everything I need and is also one of the cheapest. It's also not smelly.A few things they still missed were a handle on the front, quick releases for vat and plate, and putting connectors in the right place. Also, the control screen is way too small. Those gripes aside, it was just that weird plate I found disconcerting, but if it improves quality, I'm OK with that.
Your luck you got a mo th i got less than three weeks befor lcd death doing only moderate printing. Elegoos support has gone down hill. Can not recomed this printer in any way shape or form
I've now had it for a few months and it has been amazing, the only problems have been on my end with not making drain holes big enough or wrong settings. Normally I'm the one that has defective products. It sucks that their customer support has gone downhill though, seems like it could fixed rather easily
Thanks for NOT hiding the failures and the drops. My heart broke to see Batman's demise. Mainly failures has been my experience until I sorted out a list to remember when using my Saturn 1 printer. 1. Make sure the supports are well done and dont' believe it when they say their supports work when you buy their models! Learn to do it your yourself. 2. When you rescale you have to redo the supports. You CANNOT rescale a model that is already supported! 3. Make sure you level correctly and 4. TIGHTEN those screws! If the build plate ios wobbnly your figures will have very long members. But just as I got good with that I bought Saturn 4 Ultra and I need to calibrate it now to start. Can you do the settings for miniatures both 18mm and 28mm? As well as larger models for your viewers? Ihave subscribed. I appreciate the effort you put in.
If I'm going to have something break, I might as well include it in the video so it's not a complete waste hahahaha. I pretty much use the same settings for everything, they change slightly for big pieces like that Batman bust, but other than that, these are what I use.
Layer Height: .05
Bottom Layer Count: 8
Exposure Time: 2.3
Bottom Exposure Time: 35
Transition Layer Count: 6
Transition Type: Linear
Waiting Mode: Resting Time
Rest Time Before/After Release/After Retract: 1
11:50 - If the Elegoo rook is offset from the center when curing, the bottom will be cured as well. There's a UV light strip on the bottom, but it doesn't reach all the way to the center of the rotating platen.
Yeah, I'm not sure why I put it in the centre of the plate. Everything else I've cured since has been closer to the edge
Excellent Video, thank you!
Thank you for watching!
After posting about the Nepturne 4 plus, I took a look at some of your other posts. _Good on you._
Yea, Sht happens! And always when others are watching.
Resin printing is great for those ultra fine detail jobs, but I like the FDM printing whenever possible because there is a much larger range of plastics. And those resins are quite toxic.
*Having said that,* here's something to consider _(if you haven't already thought about it)._ WITH GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION GEAR ON, and a well ventilated area _(safety first)_ it is possible to manually paint on, *or dip FDM prints into a vat with resin in it.* Then with a portable, hand held UV light cure it. Do that as many times as you want. I have found this is a very good way to smooth out layer lines, and add structural strength to PLA prints. By "playing" with deviations on that idea, pigments can be introduced. Or simply paint the now smoothed FDM print. (watch out for drips on the job.)
*BTW;* The economics of this work out well PLA per Kg is about $18AUD (bulk buy) and Resin (last time I got some) was about $35AUD/Kg _(These are in Australian dollars)_
Peace.
I'll have to give it a crack at some point! I've got some pretty big projects in the works at the moment, so I'll keep it in the back of my mind, cheers!! The cost of resin does hurt the pocket a bit. Buying in bulk is the smart option, providing ya got the cash in the first place, hahaha.
I wonder if they left the terrible ai cam the way it is to update it later and fix it little by little. I hope so
It'd be nice if they do that, but I don't see why they'd use it as part of their marketing if it wasn't already working
Thank you would you care to divulge the settings that you have sellted upon, or make a vidio on how you arrive at them
After a lot of trial and error, as well as reading a lot of reddit threads about settings, I eventually settled on these and have been using them a lot lately.
Layer Height: .05
Bottom Layer Count: 8
Exposure Time: 2.3
Bottom Exposure Time: 35
Transition Layer Count: 6
Transition Type: Linear
Waiting Mode: Resting Time
Rest Time Before/After Release/After Retract: 1
I'm using Chitubox to slice everything and send it all over to the printer. If you want to test the exposure settings, I highly recommend doing a Cones of Calibration test from Table Flip Foundry.
Hope this helps!
@@nerdvault_42 Thank you this should give me a good start
Happy to help
Auto is the way to go
100% bro
Sorry to see your Batman go a-tumble.
Might I suggest you try the Sunlu ABS-like?
I use it as standard on my Saturn 3 Ultra, and it rarely fails. But more importantly, it's rock hard, and even falls like that will survive.
When my current machine finally dies, I will be looking at the Saturn 4 Ultra. My only gripe is that vat looks like a bitch to clean.
I'll give that a crack when I run out of the standard (still got 5 bottles left on the shelf). I'll probably end up trying a few different brands and types until I find something that works super well.
Cleaning the vat isn't too bad, the 2 pouring corners (spouts? Whatever ya wanna call them) make it pretty easy to empty compared to others that are just a basic shape, it's just big and heavy. I haven't had to change the film yet (even though the machine is calibrated to tell you to change it after 6000 layers as I have just found last night)
i just got a saturn 4 ultra a week ago - its my first ever printer. the vat is super easy to clean out imo but what i did do was put an hole in the PFA sheet thinking it was the shipping cover 😂 so i had to buy and replace the PFA and that was super easy too. all in all im super impressed how friendly to use this machine is.
I had a hole in my first printers FEP, didn't realise and had resin seep down on to the screen... don't recommend that!
They're pretty easy to replace parts now which is great!
@@brightdaygaming5692 Oh no! Those film sheets are expensive. A word of note, get a heater. I got a ton of fails before I got one.
@@nerdvault_42 Well I find the light grey ABS is the go to. It does everything I need and is also one of the cheapest. It's also not smelly.A few things they still missed were a handle on the front, quick releases for vat and plate, and putting connectors in the right place. Also, the control screen is way too small. Those gripes aside, it was just that weird plate I found disconcerting, but if it improves quality, I'm OK with that.
batman was a OH FUCK ! moment.....bummer
Yeah, I tried to not look too disappointed that it happened, and when I said I'd print it again... still haven't gotten around to it hahahaha
The 3 Ultra has a bigger build volume 🤷🏻♂️
It's marginally bigger, I think the upgrades on the 4 make it a better buy over the 3 if you can afford it
Ouch!
Yep... easy come, easy go I guess hahaha
Your luck you got a mo th i got less than three weeks befor lcd death doing only moderate printing. Elegoos support has gone down hill. Can not recomed this printer in any way shape or form
I've now had it for a few months and it has been amazing, the only problems have been on my end with not making drain holes big enough or wrong settings. Normally I'm the one that has defective products. It sucks that their customer support has gone downhill though, seems like it could fixed rather easily