Martin, some people just don't realize how easy it is to change disk brakes and pay a premium price to let a garage do it for them. But with a few tools, it is very doable, as you have shown. Thumbs Up!
Spot on Martin. I use normal lithium grease for the caliper pins. I normally use white grease to keep rust at bay on stuff that gets exposed to the elements. It should work just as well on those caliper pins. You forgot to mention that the pads will need to be bedded in so tell Sharon to be gentle on the brakes for the first couple of hundred miles or so. Don't forget to operate the brake pedal once you've done the job to avoid a brown trouser moment when you set off. The last pad replacement I did was on the BMW and the pads have already bedded in. I've got to do the same job on a 2016 Ford Fiesta. You don't have to change the discs every single time but the discs on the Vectra definitely needed changing. The last disc change I did was on the Citroen. Something else to note is that if the discs are being changed then the pads must be replaced also regardless of their condition.
Hello Martin, seems that Uk has had better weather than here in Finland. It has been pissing down with rain the whole ”winter”. No snow yet which is really rare in this time on year. Keep up the quality content! J
Great job Martin, next time you're in B&Q pick up a paint kettle hook , it's ideal for hanging the caliper from the strut ( or make one from welding rod) 👍
I live in texas usa and i had ona them spring clips fly off and my buddy in ireland said it landed in his back yard....pretty good distance they'll fly...😉😂
Them caliper hold back clips are easier to remove and install than the wire ones on the Siggy all you need to do is push on the centre where your thumb is towards the front of the vehicle and the 2 "L" shaped hooks will come out of the holes then flick them out and to install them you just offer the 2 wings against the caliper carrier and push the retainer forward and the 2 "L" shaped hooks will pop in the holes.
Ah yes, the lovely ATE brakes of the Vectra! Well maintained and they last forever (not pads and disks, those are consumables, but everything else). There´s just one thing, though I guess that applies to other brake systems as well - never change the pads without changing the disks or having them turned! My first Vectra had old disks with reasonably new pads when I bought it and required f***loads of force on the pedal, the grooves in the disks glassed the pads (guess who was in a for big surprise when the new brakes where mounted!) Even better - the disks had rusted to the hubs so well, I had to use a cutting disk to slice the centers to break the separated pieces loose. If only the previous owner/mechanic had used copper paste for such applications! I never had any issue getting off the disks or rims (steel for the winter tires) on my cars.
Another great and informative blog as always really great to see more vids comming really appreciate all the work you do so we can do these jobs our selfs fantastic work Martin...👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Brilliant I have allways been to afraid to tackle such jobs but really you make it look easey time to buy some tools garages are getting so expensive 👀👌👍🔧🔨🔩
Great how2, I’m not criticising just a tip for anybody who does this job on there Vectra-C, the rubber guilds that the slider pin slide into can swell up so the pins don’t slide correctly giving you uneven brake wear because of sticking pins, (even though you greased them) What you do is take the 2 rubbers guilds out the Caliper and you’ll see the holes are all rusty, a wire Spiral brush in a drill works wonders to clean them, Then put some Silicone grease on when Reassembling it,
Great 👍 video Martin. I just got a set of brake disks and pads For my daily driver Euro car parts Had a sale of 50 percent off and it cost £40.00 all in not to Bad £10 for Brake discs and £30 for mintex brake Pads
I must say the hair is looking good Martin. You're starting to look like Marty Wild....lol. Where is he these days by the way ? I hope he's not chasing his toupee down the street with the winds we've been having.
I use loads of apec as it the main stock brand for our main motor factor. Quality consistent and priced well, I rate them equal in quality but better value ... Just avoid ECP home brands eBay nonsense brands and you be good .
That Vectra seems high maintenance. Had a Daewoo/'57Chevy Lacetti 95Ker. Bit of patch up on the exhaust. 50 quid Throttle body (but old one just needed a clean TBH) Sold it now. Missing it already!
A bit trick VERY tricky . That was an understatement. I am not going to say bad of some outlets, but you mentioned Halfords. Please do not think the professional tools are inferior, they or were made by Sykes Picovant from Blakpool and actually carry a lifetime guarantee, as do Snap-on. The normal ones are not really of the quality you need, hence you broke it. With a proper and not DIY breaker bar no problem.. But costs more
I have a problem with my Mondeo mk3 petrol 2L 2004 which is not the topic of this video... but I didn’t know how else to contact you and would appreciate any advice. O/S front calliper seized solid. Any advice on how to release it so that I can remove and replace. Many thanks...
I would clamp ff the hose, remove the banjo bolt and hold an air line over the hole to pop the piston. That's only if you have a compressor. failing that, you might be able to get a small punch in the hole and tap the back of the piston to free it off.
Wow that job seems like it takes longer with all the extra you have to do compared to over here in the USA. We dont have a bolt holdingg G the disc on or a clip holding the pads on or a senser.
Im surprised you used the old sensor. Normally the light comes on when it’s worn through. So the light would be still on after you replaced the disks and pads....
The sensor is just a metal pad that earth's on the disk making a circuit for current to flow for the warning light. The downside of not replacing it is that next time because of the "sensor" being scuffed it allows the pads to wear a little bit more before the warning light comes on. The light will go out with thick new pads regardless of the sensors condition because there is no path to earth/ground to light the warning bulb.
David Humpherson I believe your incorrect there. It used to be like that on older 1 wire systems. Newer cars use a two wire system that wears through and breaks the connection, throwing the light. I’m a little confused and maybe Martin can confirm the details? I.e the light was on and now it’s off? I work in a garage and the wear sensor has to always be replaced.
@@Roverturbo Cool, didn't know that 👍Ha ha, more complication, sounds about right for making extra money 😂 That's progress. My 420i had little clips on the pads that'd squeel when the pads got low. Not sure about 620Ti I had.
Great video your brake claiper clip is very similar to mine I've got the signum 2.2 dti the brake wear sensor is sold on its own it doesn't come with the pads
Hi bud.. great video.. having the impact makes a difference but you still can fall back on a breaker bar. Did that gift turn up. I have not a message to say it's been delivered
Bloody hell Martin, strange you should upload a video to do with brakes, I went out in the misses car today and found the ABS light on, I’m hoping it just a sensor.
Yes Jason, its not really necessary on today's vehicles but certain people in the comments forget it was always done and its something that will stop but certain people will still do it as it was taught to them. Its not wrong, just a sign of changing times. They forget that.
Hey, I know you prob love a good ol' London romp, got to recommend The Gentlemen as it brought it home them pavements I pounded as a young lad looking for trouble hehe Do miss the smoke but when people started running round with shooters for fun and I was out of there like a good 'un with me baby daughter.
Loved, it martin another ⛍ job. You can come and do mine on my focus, ecoboost I ve got warped disc and, sticking caliper on mine needing sorting out. Weather here in Scotland not so good as yours.. Its tipping it down with rain.
Thousands of miles left in those disks and pads. the pad manufacturers set that pad warning contact far too high. I may be old school, but why not wait until you hear the squeal of metal on metal. Another clear case of the health and safety brigade helping parts manufacturers line their pockets.
Generally the ladies do give the brakes a hard time but not in this case.i was behind a brand new automatic car and the brake lights were on the whole time... 2 feet + 2 pedals, OMG some people!
@@retrorestore thanks is it reasonable straight forward? my dad talked me out of it said you have to bleed the brakes! However I didn't see you doing thar
@@retrorestore I had a green vectra saloon 1.8 16v before this did the thermostat I'm no mechanic minute the coolant came out i was like shit have I bit off more than I can chew ha
Why did they put a brake pad sensor on one side only cos guaranteed one side wears down quicker than the other as my vectra wore down the pads on the drivers side quicker than the passenger side
Having a sensor just on the left side would only be ok for countries driving on the right, as right turns there are tighter and more frequent, so the left wheel carries higher loads and travels further.
Duncan Disorderly you shouldn’t have uneven brake wear at all, Grease the slider pins (silicone grease) clean the Calipers and carrier guilds and then copper grease were the pads slide, You shouldn’t have uneven pad wear though what’s so ever,
Believe it or not, I´m braking into the turn, or to put it better, the braking isn´t fully finished when I turn the wheel. Just went out to my workshop, the disks of my last brake job are still sitting in the junk pile. Left side 23.6mm, right side 23.75mm, new those had 25mm, so the wear difference is over 10% (between 1.25 and 1.4mm). Left side was missing the small index screw, so its unused and therefore dirty hole distinguished it from the right disk.
Martin am not having a go at you lol please please could you wear a pair of gloves brake dust is poisons. Advice open the master cylinder lid reason being forcing brake fluid has no where to go there is a likely hood that you can blow a pipe or Damage the Abs Unit is higher.. Am not having a go at you got the job done buddy.✌👍
Ali, Pushing a piston in by hand is far less pressure that when you apply foot pressure and the servo pushes out bud. Its a myth about removing the cap. I have not seen any guaranteed professional state that. You'll find loads of people in forums say that it needs to be removed but no authority has explained why. I have done it both ways and experienced no difference in piston pressure in pushing the piston back in.
Sorry martin,I meant to send that to a different channel where someone ,Kevin Talbot bought an R/C car for daft money !!!? ,I meant to send you ,great video as Aways ,I don't think there is any other channel that is even getting close to all the things you do ,so your in a league of your own !! 😀
Not the case, It doesn't dry out. I've seen it, years old. Do think before making a statement like that bud. I bet you have never seen it dry out, I know I haven't in the 40 + years I've been working on cars.
retrorestore Sorry didn’t mean to offend I also have been working on cars for over 40 years in the motor trade . It was just an observation please check out Edd China video on textar brake disc and pad fitting .
@@christophercobb2886 I've seen it Chris and also in an earlier series, Edd was putting copperslip on the back of brake pads so it's just that things change bud.
I just wonder why people need to criticize people they don't know anything about. I personally don't do it. I don't know what you are referring to bud. I answer hundreds of comments most days.
@@retrorestore thank you. I should not be that judgemental but it was in respect of you. I enjoy your company and feel like I know you because of what I see, obviously not that well. Presumptuous!!
Martin, some people just don't realize how easy it is to change disk brakes and pay a premium price to let a garage do it for them. But with a few tools, it is very doable, as you have shown. Thumbs Up!
Exactly Gary. Good point bud.
Top job Martin another good regular maintenance video for the home mechanic keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Spot on Martin. I use normal lithium grease for the caliper pins. I normally use white grease to keep rust at bay on stuff that gets exposed to the elements. It should work just as well on those caliper pins. You forgot to mention that the pads will need to be bedded in so tell Sharon to be gentle on the brakes for the first couple of hundred miles or so. Don't forget to operate the brake pedal once you've done the job to avoid a brown trouser moment when you set off. The last pad replacement I did was on the BMW and the pads have already bedded in. I've got to do the same job on a 2016 Ford Fiesta. You don't have to change the discs every single time but the discs on the Vectra definitely needed changing. The last disc change I did was on the Citroen. Something else to note is that if the discs are being changed then the pads must be replaced also regardless of their condition.
Hello Martin, seems that Uk has had better weather than here in Finland. It has been pissing down with rain the whole ”winter”. No snow yet which is really rare in this time on year. Keep up the quality content! J
Thanks Jaani, yes it is pretty mild here.
Great job Martin, next time you're in B&Q pick up a paint kettle hook , it's ideal for hanging the caliper from the strut ( or make one from welding rod) 👍
I live in texas usa and i had ona them spring clips fly off and my buddy in ireland said it landed in his back yard....pretty good distance they'll fly...😉😂
Central lockin on my mondeo mk3 works because of you well done martin!!!!!!🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Nice one bud. Cheers
Happy Sunday Martin I always enjoy your videos thank you from South Africa
Thanks Martin. Watch the rear video too as I’ve all 4 to do on my 06 Vectra
Them caliper hold back clips are easier to remove and install than the wire ones on the Siggy all you need to do is push on the centre where your thumb is towards the front of the vehicle and the 2 "L" shaped hooks will come out of the holes then flick them out and to install them you just offer the 2 wings against the caliper carrier and push the retainer forward and the 2 "L" shaped hooks will pop in the holes.
Yes Mark, I found that out when I did the other side lol. Too late to re film it though.
Love all your vectra vids ..👍
Thanks ,enjoyed watching and learning .keep it up.
That threadlock on the caliper bolts is essential. As I found out one day
Ah yes, the lovely ATE brakes of the Vectra!
Well maintained and they last forever (not pads and disks, those are consumables, but everything else).
There´s just one thing, though I guess that applies to other brake systems as well - never change the pads without changing the disks or having them turned!
My first Vectra had old disks with reasonably new pads when I bought it and required f***loads of force on the pedal, the grooves in the disks glassed the pads (guess who was in a for big surprise when the new brakes where mounted!)
Even better - the disks had rusted to the hubs so well, I had to use a cutting disk to slice the centers to break the separated pieces loose.
If only the previous owner/mechanic had used copper paste for such applications! I never had any issue getting off the disks or rims (steel for the winter tires) on my cars.
Nice work, Martin ! Take it easy !
A clear, precise video, looks a bit more complicated than the zafira b , with the clips and sensor , great video Martin 👍
Pretty similar really.
You made that look easy Martin
Makes a change Will lol
Another great and informative blog as always really great to see more vids comming really appreciate all the work you do so we can do these jobs our selfs fantastic work Martin...👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Steve, yes, it takes me longer to film them but I feel its worth it to help people.
@@retrorestore you're vids are spot on Martin 😁😁
Great video Martin. Nice job and correctly carried out for maximum braking capacity ! Another job ticked of the list !
Cheers, Jeff.
Yes Jeff, its a long list lol
Martin learn a lot from your videos keep up the good work. just test the brakes before you go out on the road well done mate. 🚗🚗🚗🚗👍👍
Excellent Martin as ever👍👍
I've got mine to do superb nice to see u do it
Brilliant I have allways been to afraid to tackle such jobs but really you make it look easey time to buy some tools garages are getting so expensive 👀👌👍🔧🔨🔩
Exactly.
So glad it went easy for you Martin first time for everything lol 😅😅
Great how2, I’m not criticising just a tip for anybody who does this job on there Vectra-C,
the rubber guilds that the slider pin slide into can swell up so the pins don’t slide correctly giving you uneven brake wear because of sticking pins, (even though you greased them)
What you do is take the 2 rubbers guilds out the Caliper and you’ll see the holes are all rusty, a wire Spiral brush in a drill works wonders to clean them, Then put some Silicone grease on when Reassembling it,
A fine vid Mr it was a big help for me cheers. Richi islas canarias 🌴🐪🌵
Nicely done there Martin keep up the good work please
Great 👍 video Martin. I just got a set of brake disks and pads For my daily driver Euro car parts Had a sale of 50 percent off and it cost £40.00 all in not to Bad £10 for Brake discs and £30 for mintex brake Pads
And I didn’t see A Lucozade boy at my branch of euro car parts Lol 😆🤣😂
Haha, Yes I remember lol
Great video again Martin that jack has seen better days could do with a resto job on it !ok 👍
Mondeo mk3 petrol 1.8 zetec brakes a lot simpler , hooray !!!!!!!!! ☕☕☕☕☕☕☕☕☕☕☕☕Great content 🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘
Nice work clear and easy to fellow cheers
Same as a Saab 93
Great video and expertly done, nice one👍
I must say the hair is looking good Martin. You're starting to look like Marty Wild....lol. Where is he these days by the way ? I hope he's not chasing his toupee down the street with the winds we've been having.
perfect job Martin.
Hi great video, can i ask what brand the white grease is please, i nearly put copper grease on my sliding bolts lol
I can't remember bud, Just google White grease.
Apec pads and discs are really good. I would put them up there with Pagid, Jurid and Brembo.
I use loads of apec as it the main stock brand for our main motor factor.
Quality consistent and priced well, I rate them equal in quality but better value ...
Just avoid ECP home brands eBay nonsense brands and you be good .
@@mrb1864 DriveTec from GSF and Eicher from ECP are the ones to avoid.
@@JamesAllen300 we avoid GSF and ECP 100%, would rather close shop and give them trade .
That Vectra seems high maintenance. Had a Daewoo/'57Chevy Lacetti 95Ker. Bit of patch up on the exhaust. 50 quid Throttle body (but old one just needed a clean TBH) Sold it now. Missing it already!
The vectra is a great workhorse and rarely gives problems. These are just routine wear and tear jobs
A bit trick VERY tricky . That was an understatement. I am not going to say bad of some outlets, but you mentioned Halfords. Please do not think the professional tools are inferior, they or were made by Sykes Picovant from Blakpool and actually carry a lifetime guarantee, as do Snap-on. The normal ones are not really of the quality you need, hence you broke it. With a proper and not DIY breaker bar no problem.. But costs more
I like the Halfords Professional range, I use them all the time.
I have a problem with my Mondeo mk3 petrol 2L 2004 which is not the topic of this video... but I didn’t know how else to contact you and would appreciate any advice. O/S front calliper seized solid. Any advice on how to release it so that I can remove and replace. Many thanks...
I would clamp ff the hose, remove the banjo bolt and hold an air line over the hole to pop the piston. That's only if you have a compressor. failing that, you might be able to get a small punch in the hole and tap the back of the piston to free it off.
Wow that job seems like it takes longer with all the extra you have to do compared to over here in the USA. We dont have a bolt holdingg G the disc on or a clip holding the pads on or a senser.
Good job Martin well explained 🔧🔧🔧😃😃
Thanks Gerry.
Im surprised you used the old sensor. Normally the light comes on when it’s worn through. So the light would be still on after you replaced the disks and pads....
The sensor is just a metal pad that earth's on the disk making a circuit for current to flow for the warning light. The downside of not replacing it is that next time because of the "sensor" being scuffed it allows the pads to wear a little bit more before the warning light comes on. The light will go out with thick new pads regardless of the sensors condition because there is no path to earth/ground to light the warning bulb.
David Humpherson I believe your incorrect there. It used to be like that on older 1 wire systems. Newer cars use a two wire system that wears through and breaks the connection, throwing the light. I’m a little confused and maybe Martin can confirm the details? I.e the light was on and now it’s off? I work in a garage and the wear sensor has to always be replaced.
@@Roverturbo Cool, didn't know that 👍Ha ha, more complication, sounds about right for making extra money 😂 That's progress. My 420i had little clips on the pads that'd squeel when the pads got low. Not sure about 620Ti I had.
David Humpherson agreed, only any good if you knew or heard the squealing.. 😂
Hi Martin . What hex size did you use to remove the screw that keeps the discs on please ? Can you remember ?
I can't remember, sorry.
@@retrorestore no problem I think I've found it - M6
Awesome work keep it up and thanks for the informative content
Great video your brake claiper clip is very similar to mine I've got the signum 2.2 dti the brake wear sensor is sold on its own it doesn't come with the pads
Hi bud.. great video.. having the impact makes a difference but you still can fall back on a breaker bar. Did that gift turn up. I have not a message to say it's been delivered
Yes Mick, i'll do a vid soon bud. Thanks again, its a great tool.
@@retrorestore no problem mate was just checking it had turned up. As I said I had no notification to say it had been posted
Neat repair video.
Bloody hell Martin, strange you should upload a video to do with brakes, I went out in the misses car today and found the ABS light on, I’m hoping it just a sensor.
Not to worry, folks, Martin triple-checked the correct replacement parts so he doesn't have multiple visits to the shop. No long rant this time.
No Euro car Parts for me any more lol
Great vid Martin I still put copper grease on the back of pads guess it's just a habit as I was always taught by my dad that way
Yes Jason, its not really necessary on today's vehicles but certain people in the comments forget it was always done and its something that will stop but certain people will still do it as it was taught to them. Its not wrong, just a sign of changing times. They forget that.
@@retrorestore true mate iv got to do brakes on my car yet so I think I'll try it just by copper greasing the bits where the pads sit this time
Another great video mate.
hi martin, great vid as usual
Great job martin.👍👍👍
Cheers Steve
😊😊😊 thanks Martin
Cheers martin
Another great video.
Thought you was getting rid of the triumph???? Will the trotter van ever get finished????
It will all get sorted this year.
Hey, I know you prob love a good ol' London romp, got to recommend The Gentlemen as it brought it home them pavements I pounded as a young lad looking for trouble hehe Do miss the smoke but when people started running round with shooters for fun and I was out of there like a good 'un with me baby daughter.
Its a different place now Ian, Not for me i'm afraid.
this vectra be tax exempt classic by time u get it back on the road lol .
Uk weather been awful for jobs outside .
The Vectra is on the road bud.
you on a roll, On to the Triumph then :-)
Martin what program do you use to edit your videos?
I use Sony Movie Studio 14 Walter
@@retrorestore thank you Martin for the info.
Loved, it martin another ⛍ job. You can come and do mine on my focus, ecoboost I ve got warped disc and, sticking caliper on mine needing sorting out. Weather here in Scotland not so good as yours.. Its tipping it down with rain.
It was very windy here today, you'll sort it bud.
Thousands of miles left in those disks and pads.
the pad manufacturers set that pad warning contact far too high.
I may be old school, but why not wait until you hear the squeal of metal on metal.
Another clear case of the health and safety brigade helping parts manufacturers line their pockets.
Generally the ladies do give the brakes a hard time but not in this case.i was behind a brand new automatic car and the brake lights were on the whole time... 2 feet + 2 pedals, OMG some people!
No idea what model you have mines a 56reg sri 1.9bcdti 16v do you think they all be the same?
Should be the same bud.
@@retrorestore thanks is it reasonable straight forward? my dad talked me out of it said you have to bleed the brakes! However I didn't see you doing thar
@@jackmilne9764 You don't need to bleed the brakes to change the pads or discs bud.
@@retrorestore I had a green vectra saloon 1.8 16v before this did the thermostat I'm no mechanic minute the coolant came out i was like shit have I bit off more than I can chew ha
Aluminium front hub?
No Steel
Why did they put a brake pad sensor on one side only cos guaranteed one side wears down quicker than the other as my vectra wore down the pads on the drivers side quicker than the passenger side
Nice job Martin
Having a sensor just on the left side would only be ok for countries driving on the right, as right turns there are tighter and more frequent, so the left wheel carries higher loads and travels further.
Duncan Disorderly you shouldn’t have uneven brake wear at all, Grease the slider pins (silicone grease) clean the Calipers and carrier guilds and then copper grease were the pads slide,
You shouldn’t have uneven pad wear though what’s so ever,
@@sthenzel but you don't really brake as your making the turn, you brake before the turn
Believe it or not, I´m braking into the turn, or to put it better, the braking isn´t fully finished when I turn the wheel.
Just went out to my workshop, the disks of my last brake job are still sitting in the junk pile.
Left side 23.6mm, right side 23.75mm, new those had 25mm, so the wear difference is over 10% (between 1.25 and 1.4mm).
Left side was missing the small index screw, so its unused and therefore dirty hole distinguished it from the right disk.
Great 👍
That's quite a lot different to the Mondeo type ones I have on my Jaguar X type.
Great vid Martin 👍
Vectra carrier bolts are tight as feck think the torque setting is something like 220nm! Or a good manly grunt
Did you pump the break pedal before you start up ....it's better for the heart :-) Unless the new cars need the brake pedal pressed before starting?
Haha yes Bill
@@retrorestore You only do it once LOL
Always thought I'd have a Vectra C but they've kind of passed me by. Shame, fine cars.
impact sockets on a impact wrench, and ya loose torque when ya have a extension on
Yes you do but it wouldn't go on without an extension.
all good.!!
How are the diets going Martin-Sharon.. were still smashing it 😁
Update Monday Stu.
Martin am not having a go at you lol please please could you wear a pair of gloves brake dust is poisons. Advice open the master cylinder lid reason being forcing brake fluid has no where to go there is a likely hood that you can blow a pipe or Damage the Abs Unit is higher.. Am not having a go at you got the job done buddy.✌👍
Ali, Pushing a piston in by hand is far less pressure that when you apply foot pressure and the servo pushes out bud. Its a myth about removing the cap. I have not seen any guaranteed professional state that. You'll find loads of people in forums say that it needs to be removed but no authority has explained why. I have done it both ways and experienced no difference in piston pressure in pushing the piston back in.
The Vectra needs a wash!
I bet you'd get them out with a milwaukee impact gun 😜
Did you see how tight they were with the breaker bar?
For £2195 it better be good !😀
Sorry martin,I meant to send that to a different channel where someone ,Kevin Talbot bought an R/C car for daft money !!!? ,I meant to send you ,great video as Aways ,I don't think there is any other channel that is even getting close to all the things you do ,so your in a league of your own !! 😀
No worries Ash.
Thanks ,I was trying to comment on 2 things at once ,didn't really go to plan !!!
Bloody torx bolts, they don't want you doing it yourself obviously.
You really should not be using copper slip it dries out and causes the pads to stick . I always use ceratec with no problems .
Not the case, It doesn't dry out. I've seen it, years old. Do think before making a statement like that bud. I bet you have never seen it dry out, I know I haven't in the 40 + years I've been working on cars.
retrorestore Sorry didn’t mean to offend I also have been working on cars for over 40 years in the motor trade . It was just an observation please check out Edd China video on textar brake disc and pad fitting .
@@christophercobb2886 I've seen it Chris and also in an earlier series, Edd was putting copperslip on the back of brake pads so it's just that things change bud.
n325aej Not five years please refer to Edd China textar brake disc and pad change .
n325aej No problem with Martin or video it was very well done . I was just giving some professional advise to what is used in the motor trade .
oh my look.....................1st :D
What a rubbish design . Bloody vauxhall
just wondered if I am forgiven for critising Gary. Only want him to help you, my comment not to hurt.
I just wonder why people need to criticize people they don't know anything about. I personally don't do it. I don't know what you are referring to bud. I answer hundreds of comments most days.
@@retrorestore thank you. I should not be that judgemental but it was in respect of you. I enjoy your company and feel like I know you because of what I see, obviously not that well. Presumptuous!!