Hi Brian, I really like your grinder design and my own build is highly influenced by your design but in a bolted version. As I saw this video I directly started to look for scrap pieces and did't found long enough parts. But I found a even more simple solution. Placing the flat platten in the lower tube and the work rest in the upper one. Clamping an angle iron on the workrest and moving the workrest up as far as needed. Now I can use the angle iron as my guiding rail for my knife clamp. It works perfectly.
Hey I just built a revolution from the plans set I would like to chat a little I ordered belts a couple days ago so I actually finished the grinder before I had belts for it lol
That's a very effective knife sharpening jib for that belt grinder. The ergonomics on it leave a lot to be desired. With the sharpening jig in use, the edge of the knife is at shoulder height and the knife clamp handle was at chin height for the person who last used it in the video.
Great vid? Was wondering if you have considered offering a simple 2x42/48 belt grinder kit with a flat platen, that can be attached to a bench grinder or simple electric motor? It would be nice to have a less expensive, no weld, entry level machine for beginners and for sharpeners.
This looks like a very good system. I work on axes and free hand the edge -do you know of a clamp that would handle the thickness of an axe pole (1 1/2 to 1 3/4)? Thank you!
@@HouseMadeUS Thank you for responding (you’d be surprised how many do not)! I will have to look at your video again and see how I can do this but I like your system! Thank you for designing and manufacturing something like this.
Here is a reference for those of you who use japanese water stones on your kitchen knives or razors. in western sandpaper: 1200 grit = 3.8 microns. in japanese water stones: 2000 grit = 6 microns 4000 grit = 3 microns For a more practical compariaon: a 1200 grit belt will provide a grind similar to the Naniwa Green Brick of Joy, which many sushi shokunin(myself included) use to touch up their knives between shifts. The feel of the polish will be different, but the toothless of the edge will be in the same range. Therefore this belt system will give you a good, toothy, 'full shift' edge. This level would be acceptable for more hard use blades like Deba, Honetsuki, Sushikiri, unagikiri, hamokiri, etc. Following this up with a polishing stone or two above 5000 grit would give you an edge suitable for blades such as yanagi, takobiki, usuba, etc. There are times though, when you want a more toothy edge on these thin, slicing knives. For example; on extremely fatty or oily fish, a highly(12000+) polished edge is actually too smooth and can lead to less ideal cuts than an edge in the 3-6000 range would. I have a yanagiba that i only sharpen up to the Green Brick of Joy level for precisely such occasions. In theory, this system and a tormek(with the replacement japanese stone wheel) would produce comparable end results. As to the potential time savings, I will have to wait until I build a Revolution grinder for my shop and try it for myself. For what it's worth; the folks over at Japanese Knife Imports use a combination of 2x72's, small(horizontal) kaiten toishi's, and both natural and artificial water stones to do repairs and put final edges on blades for customers. I hope that helped.
I realize, Mower blades can be a very General and Complex statement(as Many types/styles exist). I tend to Hand grind mine on a 2x72....but this can certainly give some Human error for many reasons.....30* angle Recommended. Just wondering if U have pursued this scenario at all yet and if it may incorporate a bubble level(magnetic?) or a fixture for getting somewhat consistent grinds on the blade? So far, my practice has been to grind into the Edge of the blade, so that i can See when im at the cutting edge.....VS on a knife when using a fixture and the belt going away from the edge(and leaving a burr). Please LMK what your thoughts are...thanks!
Murray Carter posted his entire tutorial on using stones, and it's loaded with great information. The issue is, you'll learn more from sharpening some cheap knives on your own than you will from someone holding your hand (literally or metaphorically). Get some firsthand experience, _then_ watch the tutorials. I could prattle on about all the tricks I've learned over decades that I've been sharpening, but what works best for me might not work best for you. Anyone that says there's a single best way to sharpen is either baselessly arrogant or a snake oil salesman, usually both.
Gosh dangit Brian! You and Dennis are get me murdered by my wife if you guys keep making all this awesome stuff! Still trying to convince her to not kill me if i buy an Apollo forge kit, cuz i really want to. Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
I built the jig when Dennis first put out the video a few months ago. Its a great jig, I'm totally a fan, but I discovered right away that the Wen clamps do not give you the same angle for both sides of the blade. Set your angle on one side, turn over the blade, and check the angle again and its changed. I commented about this on his video at the time and he stated that the clamps are self-centering. Fact is, they are not. Nothing against him. I LOVE his channel, his style, his designs, and have learned SO much from him, but on this point he is not correct. The clamp does not center the blade and you get a slightly different bevel angle on each side. Different blade geometries can enhance this effect so that in some cases the difference can be 5 degrees or more from one side to the other, or minimize it down to one, but its always there. In order to use the Wen clamps you need to adjust for that difference by padding the bar when sharpening one side so the bevel angle remains the same. I actually got past that issue by just replacing the Wen clamp with the tormek centering knife jig KJ-45 (also on amazon). Looks very similar to the Wen clamp, and its a bit more expensive ($15 more i think), but it actually centers the blade to the shaft of the clamp regardless of the blade geometry and the sharpening angle remains the same on both sides of the blade without padding the bar
Knife Grinders Australia has a great video from a couple years ago the talks about clamps that have one face fixed to the handle. The offset of that fixed side from the center line of the handle dictates what size knife spine will be centered in that jig. He goes one to describe multiple ways to fix that problem from taping up the spine to having multiple jigs ground for spine sizes. I don't think many users would notice a 5 degree grind difference visually and even less could feel the difference in use.
@@MJFacas For knives with wide blades and very shallow primary bevels this different would be minimal. As you say, unnoticable for the average person. However with a narrow blade that has a greater primary bevel angle, it can be a much more significant difference. The best solution (In my opinion)is a blade holder that actually centers the blade so that the angle really is the same for both sides regardless of the blade geometry. How much of a difference is acceptable is I guess a personal thing with no correct answer.
@@HouseMadeUS Thanks for making/designing all the awesome stuff you do. I have one of your grinders in my garage, everyone who tours the garage shop sees it, I’m very proud of it
The problem with the 1x30 is it is a single speed, way too fast and very easy to overheat the blade edge, it wouldn't be a good idea. I've used one before I got my 2x72 Revolution
Well, its mentioned, and says that this latest addition sharpens near Everything.....id just like to See how it handles a Typical (and Mulching) Mower blade.....Help me believe it does it w ease, and convince me its worth purchasing!....thnx@@HouseMadeUS
@@HouseMadeUS I agree it would be an excellent alternative to sharpening most things that need it quickly and without wear and tear on a stone wheel and the extra clean up. Don't get me wrong I like it, just not for the best knives.
Good system, but you end up with a convex bevel due to the flex and wobble in the belt. If that’s intentional great (convex edges have their advantages) but if you want a non convex edge you need a platen
🤓ummm, actually as you move to the tip of the blade it would be a slightly different angle that you set in the middle. This is obviously a fatal flaw 🤓🤣
Mom needs her knives sharpened! You are amazing! ❤😊
Can do.
What an amazing attachment to get ahold of
Thank you Greg!
Hi Brian, I really like your grinder design and my own build is highly influenced by your design but in a bolted version. As I saw this video I directly started to look for scrap pieces and did't found long enough parts. But I found a even more simple solution. Placing the flat platten in the lower tube and the work rest in the upper one. Clamping an angle iron on the workrest and moving the workrest up as far as needed. Now I can use the angle iron as my guiding rail for my knife clamp. It works perfectly.
Wow. Awesome. I may need one for this folder project.
Definitely would help!!
Excellent add-on. Now can you design a jig that can sharpen my wit?
Oooooffff hahahahaha~!
Hey I just built a revolution from the plans set I would like to chat a little I ordered belts a couple days ago so I actually finished the grinder before I had belts for it lol
That's a very effective knife sharpening jib for that belt grinder. The ergonomics on it leave a lot to be desired. With the sharpening jig in use, the edge of the knife is at shoulder height and the knife clamp handle was at chin height for the person who last used it in the video.
hey brian , do you ship this kit outside the USA , to Belgium ? if yes what will be the S&h fee ?
Great vid? Was wondering if you have considered offering a simple 2x42/48 belt grinder kit with a flat platen, that can be attached to a bench grinder or simple electric motor? It would be nice to have a less expensive, no weld, entry level machine for beginners and for sharpeners.
Thanks, well done review! 👍
What are the lengths of round and bar stocks?
This looks like a very good system. I work on axes and free hand the edge -do you know of a clamp that would handle the thickness of an axe pole (1 1/2 to 1 3/4)? Thank you!
Not sure about the axe using the clamp, but I would think you could rest the entire axe head on the rail and do the sharpening that way. Maybe?
@@HouseMadeUS Thank you for responding (you’d be surprised how many do not)! I will have to look at your video again and see how I can do this but I like your system! Thank you for designing and manufacturing something like this.
Brilliant cit…. I’m struggling to line the belt up… gen 4
Make sure to watch my tracking videos. That will help tremendously
Amazing, of course, coming from you! Nice work. Any word on when they'll be back in stock?
Here is a reference for those of you who use japanese water stones on your kitchen knives or razors.
in western sandpaper:
1200 grit = 3.8 microns.
in japanese water stones:
2000 grit = 6 microns
4000 grit = 3 microns
For a more practical compariaon:
a 1200 grit belt will provide a grind similar to the Naniwa Green Brick of Joy, which many sushi shokunin(myself included) use to touch up their knives between shifts.
The feel of the polish will be different, but the toothless of the edge will be in the same range.
Therefore this belt system will give you a good, toothy, 'full shift' edge.
This level would be acceptable for more hard use blades like Deba, Honetsuki, Sushikiri, unagikiri, hamokiri, etc.
Following this up with a polishing stone or two above 5000 grit would give you an edge suitable for blades such as yanagi, takobiki, usuba, etc.
There are times though, when you want a more toothy edge on these thin, slicing knives.
For example; on extremely fatty or oily fish, a highly(12000+) polished edge is actually too smooth and can lead to less ideal cuts than an edge in the 3-6000 range would.
I have a yanagiba that i only sharpen up to the Green Brick of Joy level for precisely such occasions.
In theory, this system and a tormek(with the replacement japanese stone wheel) would produce comparable end results.
As to the potential time savings, I will have to wait until I build a Revolution grinder for my shop and try it for myself.
For what it's worth; the folks over at Japanese Knife Imports use a combination of 2x72's, small(horizontal) kaiten toishi's, and both natural and artificial water stones to do repairs and put final edges on blades for customers.
I hope that helped.
Awesome. Thank you! Very helpful.
Wow that's awesome.
Thanks Jared! 🙏🏼
I realize, Mower blades can be a very General and Complex statement(as Many types/styles exist).
I tend to Hand grind mine on a 2x72....but this can certainly give some Human error for many reasons.....30* angle Recommended.
Just wondering if U have pursued this scenario at all yet and if it may incorporate a bubble level(magnetic?) or a fixture for getting somewhat consistent grinds on the blade?
So far, my practice has been to grind into the Edge of the blade, so that i can See when im at the cutting edge.....VS on a knife when using a fixture and the belt going away from the edge(and leaving a burr).
Please LMK what your thoughts are...thanks!
This looks superb but the slightly difficult and different,
Thank you. 🙏🏼
do u give hand on training by using Tormek, belt grinfer, wetstone?!
Murray Carter posted his entire tutorial on using stones, and it's loaded with great information.
The issue is, you'll learn more from sharpening some cheap knives on your own than you will from someone holding your hand (literally or metaphorically). Get some firsthand experience, _then_ watch the tutorials.
I could prattle on about all the tricks I've learned over decades that I've been sharpening, but what works best for me might not work best for you. Anyone that says there's a single best way to sharpen is either baselessly arrogant or a snake oil salesman, usually both.
Very accurate statement. All around. 🤙🏻
So can this be used on my 2x72 that doesnt go in reverse?
Yes, if you watch Denis' video this is how he does it.
That looks like it just might work!
I am really impressed with how well this works.
Outstanding conceptualization and execution-
Thank you! So much!!
Who’s this guy? Looks like a great system👍🏻
My computer just got Covid from reading this comment. 😆
Just some guy. 😂
My name is Guy and I'm offended by that comment😂🤣
Gosh dangit Brian! You and Dennis are get me murdered by my wife if you guys keep making all this awesome stuff! Still trying to convince her to not kill me if i buy an Apollo forge kit, cuz i really want to. Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
Hahaha! Sorry about that! 😁
I built the jig when Dennis first put out the video a few months ago. Its a great jig, I'm totally a fan, but I discovered right away that the Wen clamps do not give you the same angle for both sides of the blade. Set your angle on one side, turn over the blade, and check the angle again and its changed. I commented about this on his video at the time and he stated that the clamps are self-centering. Fact is, they are not. Nothing against him. I LOVE his channel, his style, his designs, and have learned SO much from him, but on this point he is not correct. The clamp does not center the blade and you get a slightly different bevel angle on each side. Different blade geometries can enhance this effect so that in some cases the difference can be 5 degrees or more from one side to the other, or minimize it down to one, but its always there. In order to use the Wen clamps you need to adjust for that difference by padding the bar when sharpening one side so the bevel angle remains the same. I actually got past that issue by just replacing the Wen clamp with the tormek centering knife jig KJ-45 (also on amazon). Looks very similar to the Wen clamp, and its a bit more expensive ($15 more i think), but it actually centers the blade to the shaft of the clamp regardless of the blade geometry and the sharpening angle remains the same on both sides of the blade without padding the bar
Oh wow! I wonder if maybe you got a bad set? The one I have here was made by Tormek so its dead on. Thanks Chris for the info!
Knife Grinders Australia has a great video from a couple years ago the talks about clamps that have one face fixed to the handle. The offset of that fixed side from the center line of the handle dictates what size knife spine will be centered in that jig. He goes one to describe multiple ways to fix that problem from taping up the spine to having multiple jigs ground for spine sizes. I don't think many users would notice a 5 degree grind difference visually and even less could feel the difference in use.
@@MJFacas For knives with wide blades and very shallow primary bevels this different would be minimal. As you say, unnoticable for the average person. However with a narrow blade that has a greater primary bevel angle, it can be a much more significant difference. The best solution (In my opinion)is a blade holder that actually centers the blade so that the angle really is the same for both sides regardless of the blade geometry. How much of a difference is acceptable is I guess a personal thing with no correct answer.
Good time, I am Hossein from Iran, you are very polite, very handsome, and very professional
Thank you Hossein! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Jeez what I wouldn’t do for variable speed and reverse
JIG-A-MA-RIG!!!
Dang skippy son!
Looks like we got the lighting folks from the last Batman movie to help with the intro
Exactly how I like it! :)
@@HouseMadeUS Thanks for making/designing all the awesome stuff you do. I have one of your grinders in my garage, everyone who tours the garage shop sees it, I’m very proud of it
Oh wow that’s the same sharpener that came with my Reeder grinder😂
Cool.
If someone has a 2x72... They should know how to sharpen a blade!
Make a product for a cheap 1x30 and that will impress me...
Working on it!
The problem with the 1x30 is it is a single speed, way too fast and very easy to overheat the blade edge, it wouldn't be a good idea. I've used one before I got my 2x72 Revolution
U mention Lawn-mower blades......I would like to see this Demo.....including Mulching blades....Lets See it!
I'll give it a shot. Great idea
Well, its mentioned, and says that this latest addition sharpens near Everything.....id just like to See how it handles a Typical (and Mulching) Mower blade.....Help me believe it does it w ease, and convince me its worth purchasing!....thnx@@HouseMadeUS
So basically you've made a kit that will make your belt grinder into a Tormek without the water to cool it.
Add a misting system and you're all set. Multi use tool! Gotta love that!
@@HouseMadeUS I agree it would be an excellent alternative to sharpening most things that need it quickly and without wear and tear on a stone wheel and the extra clean up. Don't get me wrong I like it, just not for the best knives.
Good system, but you end up with a convex bevel due to the flex and wobble in the belt. If that’s intentional great (convex edges have their advantages) but if you want a non convex edge you need a platen
Correct, we can shift the device to use the hard flat platen as well.
🤓ummm, actually as you move to the tip of the blade it would be a slightly different angle that you set in the middle. This is obviously a fatal flaw 🤓🤣
If you put the holder at the apex of the curve and rotate the knife as you sharpen, that doesn't happen. 😉