The distinction between pores and grain is really helpful. I have a hard time communicating the difference to people so they can understand the final result. Also, I should probably take the time to find some spare cabinet doors to paint as samples sometime.
For prefinished oak cabinets that are being refinished, I sand it with 150 or 180 to bring the previous coating down fairly flat because on stain/ clear finishes, obviously there’s no pore filling in most situations. After that, I use a coat of PX lacquer primer and wait for it to dry. Any pores left over get a fine roll of BIN shellac primer followed by a sand and then another coat of PX. After all is dried and cured, sand 220, caulk cracks with Dynaflex 230, let dry 3 hrs or longer, 2-3 coats of Kem Aqua. Some may say that caulking is bad with woods that will flex but Dynaflex 230 is the best performing so far and Kem Aqua is a WB lacquer hybrid and has flex characteristics that won’t crack due to the wood expanding and contracting
Vintage guitars require nitrocellulose lacquer finishes. Stains of color need pore and grain fill filled to level any undulations prior to clear top coats
CIC 2k Polyurethane Primer, the Ultimate Waterbase Primer will block out tanning. Best water primer on the market by far. Thanks for the tips...I will try your 3 step system.
"Crowd around the grain"... it "rounds over" the pores but because of surface tension it won't go into the pore and generally it won't "bridge over" the pores.
CANT FIND THE MOST 13 QUESTIONS ASKED BY CLIENTS FOR THE CABINETS YOU DO...LOOKED EVERYWHERE PLEASE HELP WHEN YOUR AVAILABLE THANKS FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO! HAPPY WEEK, Derek
This is Cynthia again. Forgot to mention i had problem spots on thr cabinets i think i might have went to far in the grain that's not a easy fix so i decided to paint them white
I been bondo-ing my cabinets ( doors and boxes for 2 weeks ) I have about 13 doors left to go. I'm using Zinsser cover stain primer and Benjamin Moore Advance top coat. The boxes came out fantastic with sanding, bondo and sanding again. The doors are way more work to bondo. So all I need to do is spray the primer, SVT, spray top coat, work with a brush then spray an additional top coat? If so that would cut my time by more than half.
Hi, after meticulous sanding what primer and paint do you recommend to spray furniture grade plywood cabinets and doors from 1973 so the don't look like "painted" plywood, but rather simulating vinyl wrapped doors...... if possible. Thanks
There was a weird optical illusion happening in this video. I thought the cabinet doors in the background were doors and the paint can in the back was a 5 gallon.. then he reached for it and my mine was blown.
I've stripped and sanded my oak cabin what do i do from here found some bad spots on some of them that's why I decided to paint them cause I don't know how to fix the spots. Look like it's going into another grain of wood
The back brushing and re spraying on the primer are you sure that works with removing the brush strokes? Does that help with the grain filling? How long have you been doing this?
Very good info thanks! Some thing similar happened to me I tried to spray a window with my new graco Ultra hand held, did not went well, was unable to push any paint out only randon spetting, I thought was the battery not enough power but was full, I ended up going back home to get the big airless.. It was a embarrassing episode with my customer. When I got back home I figure out what happened. I used a 308 tip it was to small even with the big airless have some issues, so no more 08 tip, 10 or bigger tip and a bit of dilution will work fine. Do not know about your hvlp set up but usually a 4 Stage turbine, 1.5 or 1.8 neddle an average of 10 % dilution with windshield, fluid, floetrol or water in the worse case. And you will get beautiful results with minimun over spray (less coverage of non target areas) a lot less paint waste than a airless. Do not know the impact in a long term using windshield fluid but in the short term works great to avoid brush marks, used to use water but there a big diference for sure.
btw theres something just wrong with emerald urethane. no matter how i apply it. it always feel gritty to the touch. also if your surface isn't prepped to perfection and primed well the color bleeds through it say if theres a dark mark of dirt or smudge even 3 coats it will bleed through. I cant use this stuff for every day trim anymore unless everything it primed with oil. Baer trim paint works better with less coats. YOu should look into waterbasefinish.com/ hear this stuff is amazing but paying $100 per gal and idk if they can tint it other then white.
For $30 more, Renner 851 2k topcoat is a true cabinets paint, Much, much harder than any water borne from SW or BM has...Lay's out much better. Best water borne on the market. (milesi 2k is another good water borne Paint) > Match that up with CIC 2k Polyurethane Primer, the Ultimate Waterbase Primer will block out tanning.Best water primer on the market by far.
Hey this is Recardo from the Bahamas i see this guy on utube says that he spray grain filler on cabinet doors do they really have a grain filler that you can spray on cabinet doors
damn 60-80 hours i can do it in 15-20-30 depending on size. if i took longer i wouldnt make money since i wont be getting 3k+ for the clients i get currently.
It's Benjamin-moore Advance. I am NOT a fan of it. Be prepared to fight sagging and runs on vertical surfaces. It's fine if you're spraying doors flat. Also, 16 hour recoat time, long open time = lots of crap sticking to the paint. You need pristine conditions to use it.
The distinction between pores and grain is really helpful. I have a hard time communicating the difference to people so they can understand the final result. Also, I should probably take the time to find some spare cabinet doors to paint as samples sometime.
For prefinished oak cabinets that are being refinished, I sand it with 150 or 180 to bring the previous coating down fairly flat because on stain/ clear finishes, obviously there’s no pore filling in most situations. After that, I use a coat of PX lacquer primer and wait for it to dry. Any pores left over get a fine roll of BIN shellac primer followed by a sand and then another coat of PX. After all is dried and cured, sand 220, caulk cracks with Dynaflex 230, let dry 3 hrs or longer, 2-3 coats of Kem Aqua. Some may say that caulking is bad with woods that will flex but Dynaflex 230 is the best performing so far and Kem Aqua is a WB lacquer hybrid and has flex characteristics that won’t crack due to the wood expanding and contracting
I use BIN Shellac for wood tannin, works wonders, never fails.
Yea but it doesn't fill the grain
Bin shellac becomes brittle vinyl sealer owns shellac!
Vintage guitars require nitrocellulose lacquer finishes. Stains of color need pore and grain fill filled to level any undulations prior to clear top coats
Fine paints of europe brushing putty have a great day
CIC 2k Polyurethane Primer, the Ultimate Waterbase Primer will block out tanning.
Best water primer on the market by far. Thanks for the tips...I will try your 3 step system.
"Crowd around the grain"... it "rounds over" the pores but because of surface tension it won't go into the pore and generally it won't "bridge over" the pores.
Superb knowledge and instruction. But 40 minutes to see the system to fill the grain ? It's here 23:40-26:50
CANT FIND THE MOST 13 QUESTIONS ASKED BY CLIENTS FOR THE CABINETS YOU DO...LOOKED EVERYWHERE PLEASE HELP WHEN YOUR AVAILABLE THANKS FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO!
HAPPY WEEK, Derek
Thanks , this is a great video
This is Cynthia again. Forgot to mention i had problem spots on thr cabinets i think i might have went to far in the grain that's not a easy fix so i decided to paint them white
I been bondo-ing my cabinets ( doors and boxes for 2 weeks ) I have about 13 doors left to go. I'm using Zinsser cover stain primer and Benjamin Moore Advance top coat. The boxes came out fantastic with sanding, bondo and sanding again. The doors are way more work to bondo. So all I need to do is spray the primer, SVT, spray top coat, work with a brush then spray an additional top coat? If so that would cut my time by more than half.
Hi, after meticulous sanding what primer and paint do you recommend to spray furniture grade plywood cabinets and doors from 1973 so the don't look like "painted" plywood, but rather simulating vinyl wrapped doors...... if possible. Thanks
Can you do this process on cabinet faces and sides also
There was a weird optical illusion happening in this video. I thought the cabinet doors in the background were doors and the paint can in the back was a 5 gallon.. then he reached for it and my mine was blown.
He said he is using a wide angle camera lens.
What paint do you recommend for kitchen cabinets?
About the Poly, you need to try Centurion 2800 2k poly.
I've stripped and sanded my oak cabin what do i do from here found some bad spots on some of them that's why I decided to paint them cause I don't know how to fix the spots. Look like it's going into another grain of wood
The back brushing and re spraying on the primer are you sure that works with removing the brush strokes? Does that help with the grain filling?
How long have you been doing this?
I have a feeling its not covering the brush strokes...
Dude this is nonsense...30 years and I use lacquers not paint for cabs.
Hi i stripped and sanded my kitchen cabinets and draws it's been 3yrs im tired of my kitchen being disfunctional so what's my next step
I'm dealing with it right now. Currently i use Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua pre-cat Lacquer. What's this hybrid coating you're talking about?
He is using low quality paint, your are using better paint than him
Very good info thanks!
Some thing similar happened to me I tried to spray a window with my new graco Ultra hand held, did not went well, was unable to push any paint out only randon spetting, I thought was the battery not enough power but was full, I ended up going back home to get the big airless.. It was a embarrassing episode with my customer.
When I got back home I figure out what happened.
I used a 308 tip it was to small even with the big airless have some issues, so no more 08 tip, 10 or bigger tip and a bit of dilution will work fine.
Do not know about your hvlp set up but usually a 4 Stage turbine, 1.5 or 1.8 neddle an average of 10 % dilution with windshield, fluid, floetrol or water in the worse case.
And you will get beautiful results with minimun over spray (less coverage of non target areas) a lot less paint waste than a airless.
Do not know the impact in a long term using windshield fluid but in the short term works great to avoid brush marks, used to use water but there a big diference for sure.
My experience with emerald urethane has been bad. Paint wipes off easy with just soap and water.
What tip size for primer and finish
What tip did you use to spray the emerald urethane?
btw theres something just wrong with emerald urethane. no matter how i apply it. it always feel gritty to the touch. also if your surface isn't prepped to perfection and primed well the color bleeds through it say if theres a dark mark of dirt or smudge even 3 coats it will bleed through. I cant use this stuff for every day trim anymore unless everything it primed with oil. Baer trim paint works better with less coats. YOu should look into waterbasefinish.com/ hear this stuff is amazing but paying $100 per gal and idk if they can tint it other then white.
For $30 more, Renner 851 2k topcoat
is a true cabinets paint, Much, much harder than any water borne from SW or BM has...Lay's out much better.
Best water borne on the market. (milesi 2k is another good water borne Paint)
>
Match that up with CIC 2k Polyurethane Primer, the Ultimate Waterbase Primer will block out tanning.Best water primer on the market by far.
Hey this is Recardo from the Bahamas i see this guy on utube says that he spray grain filler on cabinet doors do they really have a grain filler that you can spray on cabinet doors
Alright Recardo, did you by any chance ever find an answer to your question?
Great discussion and insight. Love your channel and your passion for the business.
damn 60-80 hours i can do it in 15-20-30 depending on size. if i took longer i wouldnt make money since i wont be getting 3k+ for the clients i get currently.
You mean you're not "cabinet re-finisher to the stars"?
Do tell? Takes about a full day just to drop all the door/drawers and mask the openings of the boxes even if you're super speed.
Where did you get those dry racks?
@Daniel you should look here
thepaintline.com/ they have good drying racks
Good stuff
"hybrid top coat" over and over - OK so what brand and product, please?
It's Benjamin-moore Advance. I am NOT a fan of it. Be prepared to fight sagging and runs on vertical surfaces. It's fine if you're spraying doors flat. Also, 16 hour recoat time, long open time = lots of crap sticking to the paint. You need pristine conditions to use it.
@@mtbrdude Advance is alkyd non hybrid.
Great advice nick. Thank you for shearing your knowledge
Your crypto dad!
U talk too much just get straight to the points
You talk to much!
You talk to much