You should have a whole series titled “Bad sewing is historically accurate”. And just show bad sewing on the inside that makes garments look great in the outside.
The reason so many 'extra small' dresses and items still survive is precisely because they weren't the general size, so didn't become hand-me-downs or could be comfortably re-sized for others.
I love that Meemaw had pit stains... I feel like that's something never talked about in antique clothing! Everyone sweats, even demure Victorian ladies!
I have wondered about this myself. They didn't have antiperspirant back then! These tight arms would have me sweating visible circles in no time, even while using antiperspirant! Good to see evidence that people did also sweat back in the day 😅😅
ChrisFarmer back in the day most fabrics were made of cotton and other absorbent fabrics. Nowadays everything has polyester. That is the worst fabric ever. Polyester is basically plastic fabric which is why we sweat more perfumery than before. Try syranwrap and see how much you sweat. Now note that polyester is basically doing the same thing on a more hybrid scwle .
@@flowingwaters5118 I mean, they also wore shifts and corset covers etc. So there were probably at least 2 layers of fabric between the skin and the outer garment.
I've never understood the myth of extremely small waists being standard -- most women had children, and pregnancy, especially multiple pregnancies, were very likely to permanently alter the figure. Menopause also often causes weight gain. There's a reason almost all the photos of women with small waists are of teenagers and very young women (and were often manipulated to make the waist look even smaller), while older women tend to be stouter.
I love Greek & roman statues because its physical evidence that they thought being a little chubby was absolutely a desired figure. Being full figured meant you were wellfed, AKA a good baby maker lol
Loved your rant about glove comments - my husband is an academic librarian who does a lot of work with rare/historic books (and newspapers and other paper/publication things) and he NEVER wears gloves and gets just as frustrated with all the (probably well-meaning but also condescending) comments about gloves as you do. I just summarized your rant for him and he very much approved. :)
I feel his pain. I'm a manuscripts and special collections librarian and the ONLY times we wear gloves are for photographs or for anything that has red rot. It can be absolutely frustrating to have people comment about gloves who don't have any experience/expertise with the materials I work with every day.
ScotGirl1314 Hell, even wearing gloves and handling modern/new paper is a crapshoot, let alone fragile historical paper. The next person who says this to you, dare them to wear gloves while reading a book. When they inevitably tear a corner or crease a page maybe they’ll realize how ignorant they sound. You should see the notebooks I have from school - everything from a classroom looks pristine, but the ones from labs are all raggedy from turning pages with gloves on.
I do not have a degree in historical fashion/costuming/textile conservation. I DO have a degree in Surgical Technology, so if you want to know the proper gloving procedures for invasive vs. non-invasive surgery, ask away. I will not, however, assume to know how to handle extant garments. I’ll leave that to Abby...who DOES have a degree in historical fashion, and imho, is an absolute genius. I LOVE that you take us so deep into each garment. I learn more from 20 minutes of you showing us your collection than any book or website. It’s the personal touch of having an enthusiastic teacher pointing out all the great details that makes it so worthwhile. Your panel with Noelle and Kenna was wonderfully informative, too. On a somewhat unrelated topic... I so appreciate content creators, such as yourself, who focus on being so positive even when dealing with internet trolls. You are honest and straightforward without ever being cruel. I made a resolution several years ago to keep my online presence honest and positive and I avoid channels that revel in drama and negativity. Yours is exactly the type of content I seek out. Thank you for all you do, and have a beautiful week.
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ Thank you! I'm not big on confrontation, but I know I had to say something, simply because it was becoming more and more noticeable and not something that I could just ignore. I'm so grateful for your support and friendship, and I'm so glad you are here! ❤️❤️❤️
As somebody who is a textile conservation student, currently doing a FIVE YEAR DEGREE in conservation, I hereby approve of all of Abby's techniques when handling her collections. She is doing it right. It's how I work too. We wear gloves when it is appropriate, sometimes, for example to protect ourselves from dangerous things on the objects, like pesticides. But standard practice is ungloved washed hands.
Given the alterations made to Meemaw, I agree that she was a more life experienced individual. Letting out the back, more room around the waist to hip area while also taking in excess fabric at the side waist makes me wonder if she potentially had mobility issues, and was seated most of the time. 1) as we age, and especially while sitting, we tend to round out the back and slump forward more, which means we need more ease in the back/shoulder area 2) as we sit, especially in a rounded posture, our fleshy bits tend to bulge up and out, so more ease is needed around the high hip/tum area 3) this would also cause buckling/creasing of the fabric at the side waist, thus the fish dart. Just some thoughts from someone that works in Physical Therapy, and sees modern people with posture related pain
Makes total sense. My grandmother developed a hump as she aged but her breasts reduced quite a bit and she carried her weight around her belly and hips, so I could imagine her clothes would have shown the same alterations and shaping as Meemaw's.
I love the MeeMaw. Also, can you imagine the woman who made this garment - she probably never thought her work would be in someone’s collection in 2020.
My grandmother had a dress from her great-grandmother that was hand made in 1866 as part of her wedding trousseau. The dress sports a "teeny" tiny 18-inch waist. When I commented that people were so tiny grandmother informed me the dress survived because it was very special and it had not been worn but a handful of times before her grandmother (who was 15 years old at the time of her marriage) started having children. Things have changed in the last 200 years but the size of the normal healthy human is not among them.
Back in the 90s, when I was a size 14 (small for me at 6 ft tall) I always found alot of great vintage clothes. I still have a 1930s wool crepe evening gown that I wore even up to a size 18. One store where I live used to try and tell me that they couldn't find plus size vintage. I think they just weren't looking.
Oh that's amazing! And what an insight, to think that what we're seeing is a huge amount of selection bias by the people who were literally selecting vintage items for display and resale.
I absolutely LOVE how you treat the garments as individuals, instead of just another piece of clothing. They definitely have a personality, as did the people who wore them, we can assume, and it's really sweet that you help them live on in a way. 😊
History Mysteries So not _that_ much more danger. Of course, it depends a lot on what you’re handling. Green Victorian wallpaper? Probably want gloves. Bit of unglazed pottery? Probably don’t need gloves, unless they’re to protect your fingers against sharp edges.
Ive heard this before but ive never had a chance to actually ask a person this; is it true irl Archaeology is basically like 98% studying pottery shards?
sergeantbigmac I studied Ancient Greek and Roman so we looked at skeletons and jewellery and tombs too but because of what survives, most museum back rooms are full of roof tiles and boring pots and oil lamps.
I love that video! I had never noticed it before because I was looking at the whole photo but now when I focus on the tiny bits sometimes it's obvious that there are brush strokes which should not exist on Victorian pics. Love it.
A HA it wasn’t that tiny. The negatives were contact negatives, the same size as the print, usually 8 x 10 or more. Making touch ups much easier that one would think. If you really want to see some people who know the old photographic secrets, check out the the George Eastman Museum of photography in Rochester NY. They have videos on their website and when things get back to normal, they even have classes in things like retouching.
"Single use waste" of nitrile gloves. I'm in the medical community and I hate how much plastic waste we produce. Thank you for not willfully contributing to the plastic crisis. Reduce, reuse, recycle everyone!
Hooray! More Memaw content! "If it's good enough for Memaw, it's good enough for me." has become my new sewing mantra. As a little round dumpling of a woman with a very short waist myself, I personally really appreciate Memaw. I love your content :)
I have family photos that prove that Victorian/Edwardian ladies weren't all dainty little things eg. my ggg-aunt and gggg-aunt were larger ladies and look very comfortable in their bodies and classy in their clothes.
My grandmother’s aunts and great-aunts were tallish and stout also. I’ve always known the truth about the beautiful range of sizes that humans have always come in. We still have some of the pictures in my family archives. These pictures show plump, Edwardian women dressed to nines. I’d like to think one hundred years from now someone might well be looking at my clothes for historical reasons. Unfortunately, they probably won’t be able to see the super boring stuff I wear on a daily basis. That stuff just isn’t going to survive. My beautiful mid-century style full-skirted party dresses on the other hand, probably will. Would a hypothetical fashion historian in 100-200 years think that was all I wore just because it survives? It’s a fair point about textile conservation. Very few of the things people wore daily survive the ravages of time. Most of the things I wear currently probably won’t either.
@@Stettafire Sure....no CCP crackdown on the Food Kings....no pics of super fast azz kids in china.....You Tube ids lying about it all.....photo shopping the pics and making fake bids to piss off XiJi Poohbear.!!!!
Abby: Here's an example of the most perfect tailored garment I've ever seen. Garment: *has hidden janky alterations on it* Abby: ... WE WERE ALL ROOTING FOR YOU. HOW DARE YOU!
I kinda love it. It WAS a perfectly tailored jacket when it began its life. But then the person who bought it lost a bit of weight maybe, and they have some basic sewing skills, and they really don’t want to spend money on sending it to a professional to alter. So they do it themselves. Because no way are they going to just stop wearing their gorgeous green jacket! I’ll just nip it in a bit myself, can’t be too hard... And get, if it worked... at least they were able to get more love and wear out of a lovely jacket.
Genuine question! Is it possible that the curvier women from times past, would have their pieces altered and reused within a family until it was no longer useable, thus we see less "evidence" of the curvier clothing items, where as someone who was dainty wouldn't have been able to get more use of it, or if they did, more limited use?
This makes a lot of sense to me and Bernadette Banner has said something similar I think! IIRC she said tinier garments or garments with exaggerated tiny waists would've been worn by high society women concerned with fashion ie they had more time and money to afford precious delicate clothes that they only wore occasionally. Your idea makes a lot of sense too and both point to the overall idea that extent garments probably belonged to the extremely wealthy and so are not a good indicator of general trends.
Hello, historical costumer here. Yes that is one of the theories as to why many existing garments are of a small size. Fabric and clothing was an investment for the average family, and good fabric or clothing not being used was likely to have been repurposed. Garments which were very small are harder to alter as there is less fabric and alterations made would have to fit someone very small. As we can see on Abby’s coat, someone later on took a larger coat and fit it for themselves. This isn’t always true, but something to keep in mind.
I’m going to pull an example of thin air here: let’s say hypothetically a woman in 1860 had just had a new outfit made up. It’s the absolute latest and best fashion. Beautiful in every way. A nice cotton day dress in a pretty fabric. Massive skirt meant to wear over a cage crinoline. She wears it for several years, but takes great care of her clothes. By 1872, the fashions have changed so much that her, still very pretty dress that she still loves, isn’t really “wearable” anymore. By this time, Mrs. Hypothetical also has a daughter or two that need new clothes to wear. I could totally see the skirt getting taken apart and the fabric re-used for pretty dresses for a little girl. Just a hypothetical, but believable scenario to me.
I - love - you just that simple. I knew your channel from Bernadette. I don't own or want to own such garments but I enjoy historical fashion and admire the beautiful community that you all have. You make me laugh and learn! thank you! Lots of love from Uruguay!
Thank you, and it's my pleasure! If you would have told 21 year old me that I would have a rapidly growing antique clothing collection that I shared via youtube and been able to support myself this way, I would have died from happiness and disbelief! 😂
All that extra room between the shoulders on "Meemaw" suggests a widow's hump to me, I've had to gore a few shirts to move "chest" fabric around to the back to get shoulders to lie straight on a gentleman with a rather advanced case.
Loved this video. I find it hilarious that people are judging you for not wearing gloves when they probably have 1) never handled an antique garment in their life or 2) gone to school for history or historical preservation. 😐
People will stop complaining about the gloves when they stop telling Townsends, who uses 18th century techniques to do things, to use a chainsaw.😒🙄 Love Abby!
I'll never forget how he got so many comments day in and day out about what "Jas." meant that he literally had to change the name of his godamn business and YT channel, which remember would include the nightmare of changing all paperwork associated with merchandising and business licenses too. It literally did not matter how many times he answered people or addressed it on his channel btw. The contradiction that people are patronizing his online store/YT channel through the internet (the greatest research resource in human history) but refuse to look up something like that is representative of the internet itself lol.
@@sergeantbigmac and of course let's not forget their "controversial" Mt Vernon video that had absolutely nothing to do with something totally unrelated. 💣
I picture Meemaw looking a bit Dame Judi Dench like, sitting in a rocking chair on a little porch, knitting a little white baby cap for an expected grandchild with tiiiiiiny knitting needles. Rocking away and humming tunelessly. Greeting everyone that walks by her house, because you KNOW Meemaw knows everybody and everybody knows Meemaw.
What is the name of that syndrome where less learned persons believe themselves to be grandly learned because they know so very little about the subject that they don't know at all how much they don't know? As a retired public school teacher I often met people who had been to high school, so they felt qualified to tell me how to do my job. It can get a little frustrating. You handled it beautifully. "Break no bones, but take no crap." You are a grand girl, Abby! Hang in there.
Right?! I've watched her videos before and been like "Huh... I'm surprised she's not wearing gloves. Oh well, she's much more knowledgeable than I am. I'm sure she knows what she's doing."
agreed! I love how every antique garment has a story, a personality, and quirk. It makes them seem so real, and helps give life to the person who wore it and the people who made them. 😍
Bravo for speaking up for yourself against trolls and haters. People forget the manners their mothers taught them when it comes to social media! Let's be kind to each other!💗✌💗
May I just say that I love how you handled the "glove issue" You were classy and funny without belittling anyone or feeding the trolls. Well done. It's a joy to watch your channel.
Omg folks, go watch her earlier videos if you haven't - they're so good! And Abby, you do an awesome job of being consistent in the high quality of your videos and content. You inspire me to create! thank you ❤️💜 Edit: 13:15 ooh ooh! Can you tell us how you'd do this better? In another video? Or maybe showcase janky vs awesome alterations in historical garments?
I don't know much about historical fashion, I'm just a fan, but I do wonder if the interesting design choices in MeeMaw might be because old ladies are particular. I'm sure she wanted to be fashionable, but she also might have liked certain 'outdated' touches, or things that help with making an older body look nice
The one thing about being older is the patience one develops is having to listen to someone who isn't older speak about the likes and dislikes of older women, as if you cease to be an individual.
My grandma at eighty had her own unique style. She wore what she liked and was very opinionated about what she wanted to wear. Zero percent trend following, but one hundred percent wearing what she damn well pleased.
I really love seeing these kinds of garments up close on the inside. I'm a relatively new garment seamstress (just over a year) and it is very demoralizing to see my products versus the gorgeous things I'd love to make. Seeing the imperfections and wonky construction and alterations on something as gorgeous as that green coat just makes me feel so much better about what I make.
I discovered a yiddish language tailoring manual (which is also available in English) called Weinberg’s Cloak and Dress Cutter, that gives a very diverse range of sizes, I believe it goes up to a 40” waist if I’m remembering correctly. I think this is particularly interesting because it was a tailoring manual written for immigrant tailors in New York who would have been tailoring for immigrant women, mostly from Eastern Europe, who would not have been upper class by any means.
I'm 32 have 4 homeschool kiddos and I'm starting a history degree. Your channel is apart of my decision in doing so. When I was I middle school we were asked what we wanted to be. I raised my hand and said " I want to be a historian" The teacher actually laughed at me and said that is a job for men. I carried that into my life. Watching you has inspired me to start a new life! I still love history and I'm so excited for this school year almost 20 years in the making ❤
Thanks for the conservation info. I'm new to the channel and was so busy enjoying your content that I didn't even think about it. But yeh, now I think about it, what you say is exactly what they taught us when working in the provincial archives and museum collections. Good for you not wasting resources that are needed in the medical community! The curators at the museum don't wear gloves either. Off to watch your other videos on this topic. Thanks again.
yaaay another video ill be sending every facebook group that has people going crazy about how "omgg they had the smallest waist when WOMEN WERE WOMEN!!" after every edited picture.
Omg Mima would fit me like a glove!! I'm broad shouldered, small busted, with a little pooch below natural waist. Fish darts sound like what I need for the massive hip spring differential I have. I love her ❤
This is your channel and these are your items in your collection that you own. I love that you addressed this. We love you Abby!!! Loved the green coat. Drool!! Omg.
Wonderful visit as always! I will never “glove shame” you! You know your stuff, and it does make perfect sense to me. I didn’t wear gloves when I restored a 1550 Bishop’s Mantle. It would have been impossible to attempt otherwise! Keep up the great work. Such a joy!
Is there a place where you tell the whole story, illustrated of course, of the restoration of the 1550 Bishop's Mantle? I would be allllllllllll over that.
Roxie Poe I took several hundred still pictures of the process, and a couple of short videos. Believe it or not until yesterday I didn’t even have a tripod for my iPhone! So truly life in the Middle Ages! I am supposed to put it all together as a written account to be donated to the Oakeshott Institute. Then COVID happened.
Having a good time, learning about historical clothing, and then BAM attacked by Bucky Barnes being dusted. Education with a side serving of cinematic trauma LOL
I had no idea about the gloves stuff, but as someone who refused to wear gloves in -10 degree weather (F) until my riding instructor wouldn’t let me on the horse, uh, mood! Also, the way you talk about the Meemaw garment makes me want to meet Meemaw the person. So fascinating!!! Edit: at some point, would you be willing to do a video about dissolving/shattering fabrics? Totally okay if not!
All this work for finding different body sizes in historic clothing is so liberating. I think watching some period dramas and old movies with tiny tiny women probably contributed to my body issues, so this work really helps me and I'm sure others feel much more comfortable in their own skin. Thank you Abby you're amazing ☺️
Yes! Thank you so much for your lecture on NOT wearing gloves. I am of the same school, and get so many “condescending comments” on my videos for not wearing them. This made me smile.
Thanks for the inside look in (of) Meemaw... Loved it! But.... When can we buy the merche. I need a cup with 'What 's good enough for Meemaw is good enough for me'
This is fantastic information, thank you so much for sharing! It can get disheartening to only ever see smaller garments surviving. (I'd assume because people didn't stay that tiny long enough for the items to degrade over years of wear.)
Another awesome Sunday video from our gal Abby. Love the pups at the end. That coat is beautiful. Sorry about the know-it-all's. Thanks for another informative episode.
Darn those are so lovely!!! I want the green coat!! I don’t have the room or the knowledge to collect but am really enjoying collecting vicariously through UA-cam!! This is so very much nicer than seeing a garment in a museum. I love that you show everything!! I’m here for the guts!! And construction commentary!!
I think in general people were smaller because they did more manual labor and didn’t eat all the fast food and junk food today’s people do. When I was growing up in the 50’s and 60’s we were told to stand up straight and hold in our stomachs (at least I was). To this day it’s still kind of automatic to hold in my stomach. Today’s girls, even relatively thin girls, all seem to have flab around the middle. In high school I had a 34 inch bust, 23 inch waist and 33 inch hips. I wore 3’s and 5’s which is the equivalent of today’s zeroes and ones. I can only recall a couple of girls in my high school that were what I would call fat. I’m now a senior citizen and have a few extra pounds but even so I don’t have the stomach or thighs that a lot of today’s teens do.
the tailored coat, especially the trimming on the top of the coat. It's also nice that the trim followed to the waist. Even if the waist was not very small, (anything is smaller waisted than I !!!) it gave the illusion of a small waist. (I have to practice that one ALOT!!) Your videos are always so nice to watch. Just the right balance of seriousness and joy! Thank you so much!
Yep, I hate wearing cotton gloves. My hands are tools, and sensitivity is totally lost when I have to wear those atrocious things! Beautiful garments, thanks for the tour!
It would be so cool to see these historical garments recreated so they could be worn by models that were similar proportions so we could see what the garments were meant meant to look like in their prime.
Thank you so much for this and your other videos. As a plus size woman, I know from photos of my mom's family and oral history of my dad's family they were big people on both sides of my house. My mom's people were tall and big, my dad's people were shorter, but, big. I have the enlistment papers of an ancestor from the Union Army during the Civil War. He was 6'2" and 250lbs, at the time of his enlistment. I have a copy of a CDV taken 9f him and another younger man. The younger man wasn't quite as tall as my ancestor, but, he probably weighed just as much. My dad was 5'9" when he enlisted in WWII. My mom always thought he was so small. That is because all of the men and most of the woman on both sides of her family were tall, large people. My grandmother was 5'10 1/2", her father was at least 6'1" or taller, my grandfather, my mom's father was 6'3". My mom was the shortest in her family at 5'6", which is not short. I am only 5'3", so in my family, some of us have gotten shorter rather than taller. Most of us carry extra weight. I carry more than just a little extra. Thank you for showing not everyone was tiny. The way you get an "average" is to take a sampling of say 1000 men and 1000 women. You add up their height and weight, then divide it by the number of people in the sampling and extrapolate out from there.
thank you!! i've recently come across your channel & appreciate your authenticity & integrity!! those are so clearly central values that when the music came on around 10:30 to show off the first piece i just KNEW you chose a musical piece that's relevant & appropriate to & reflective of the garment's age & time. its the little things.
I find it delightfully serendipitous that it was a Sunday when Abby shot this video and I also happen to be watching this on a Sunday. X) Also! I happened to watch that aforementioned Cocovid (I want to call it a lecture?) discussion on the topic! It was quite fascinating and very informative, especially since it's a subject that's more likely to be briefly foot-noted than openly talked of. Knowing for a fact that people were still people brings me a sense of relief. We're not so different at our base level, and to see evidence of that from extant garments is wonderful. :)
Oh My Gosh! I grew up about 15 minutes away from East Orange NJ! I'm not sure why but that really gave me a little kick- I love to think about what the people in my hometown and the surrounding area might've been doing and what they might've been wearing 150 years ago. Thanks so much for posting, as usual :)
Great video as always! Ooh, “moth holes” . . . Would you consider a video addressing moths and other common fiber critters, how they’ve been dealt with historically and how you deal with them now? A number of articles seem to point to an increase over the past few years both in individual homes, vintage/resale shops and museum collections. Are they actually on the increase or are we just more aware of them now? Thanks!
one thing I find interesting about looking at these historic clothes is how different the internal finishing was. At trade school I was taught about "hanger appeal" and how you're supposed to finish commercial garments on the inside, but the first garment here shows that people were willing to just have the inside looking rough as hell as long as it was structurally sound and not going to come undone. Of course the garment has deteriorated so it looks rougher than it would have previously, but I'm so used to every jacket having a bagged out lining or a hong kong seam finish and not just being able to see where the trim was stitched on
Personally, I love the videos where you look at your collection for us. It has personally done a lot for me in the realm of confidence. I'm just starting out on making clothing from that era and watching the beautiful sewing from the costubers can be a little intimidating. Seeing that the seams in actual garments are not picture perfect makes me a lot more confident that I can succeed in making my own garments without shaming myself.
I had been wondering about the preservation of your collection, but I assumed you were very careful about it (especially since you seem really professional when talking about antique clothing in general) ❤️ Glad you brought it up though, it must be somewhat stressful to be accused of mishandling your hair collection by complete strangers - love you Abby!
Doggie noses!!! Would you ever consider doing a ‘recreation’ of a historical dress? I’m specifically thinking of the brown poplin that has been described in Laura Ingalls Wilder’s book ‘These Happy Golden Years’. (Chapter 19 on page 157 - but who’s counting) Generally 1882... 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼❤️
I’ve watched enough of your videos to know that gloves or no gloves you handle these garments with great respect and care and wouldn’t do anything that would damage them if you could help it. It is wonderful to see these beautiful garments and have you go over the construction of them. Thank you.
Hi Abby! Thank you very much for sharing your personal collection with us. I have always been interested in "Victorian" fashion; which I primarily satisfied through Halloween costumes. Gasp! I know, but now I have several channels here on the UA-cam to help educate me. Both of your books are set to arrive this week...Eeek...so excited. 💜
Thank you for having human-edited captioning. I really do appreciate that. But this video does make the point I’ve recently been screaming from the rooftops about UA-cam discontinuing Community Captioning. That even human edited captions, done by people who are not informed on the subject matter are going to make glaring mistakes. Those are some lovely “arms-eye sleeves”. The word you’re looking for is “armscye”. Also Tarleton appears to be a university in Texas. The fabric is tarletan. A community captioner would know this - or be interested enough (and not on an extremely tight deadline) to look it up as I just did. I’m all for paying humans to edit auto-generated captions, it helps a lot and I am not giving you crap for making the additional effort to have good captions. I give them full points for them being synched properly and being coherent text blocks - something a community captioner, using the available UA-cam interface and working off auto-generated captions is less likely to achieve. They did a pretty solid job. Except failing to caption the dial-up-modem noises. Which might be a case of a younger person not recognizing the noise, and being unable to label it anything meaningful. And not having caught the joke themselves - were unaware it was integral to offering equitable understanding. Public service announcement: Community captioning can still be turned on, and used until Sept 28. Having 3 videos use community captions between now and then will also earn creators 6-months of free captioning services. support.google.com/youtube/thread/61967856?hl=en Ultimately, thank you for the effort Abby. You’re doing it right.
i have a sibling that has a small cup but a large back so they have surprisingly large shirts. the green coat, the way the braid comes from the waist to the hip with such a smooth line accenting the difference between the two points is such a grace note, wonderful.
i am not saying this from a condescending place. most women think that they have small boobs and large backs. hence why everytime their bra stops fitting they adjust this by going up another band/back size when they should probably be going up 2 cups sizes and down a band size.the female human body is just not built to have a "large back" and small bust. i would highly suggest that your sibling do actual measurements. if her back was larger than her front she would look very weird and very hunch backed. most women who think this tend to just have very shallow breasts that don't project very much, it doesn't make them smaller, they just take up more room on the chest then some one with more projected breasts. therefore making them think they have small breasts. make sure you help out your sibling when taking the measurements because if she doesn't have help her measurements will likely be wrong as it is too difficult for us to keep the tape measurer straight as we try to take a circumferencial measurement around our own body. first is to measure the under bust/band area. Which is directly underneath the breast tissue on the rib cage. the measure tape needs to be in a straight line around the torso parallel to the floor. she either needs to be wearing a skin tight very thin tank top or nothing at all. do not wear a bra every to take measurements. then measure around the fullest part of the breast. the under bust measurement is what band size she should be wearing. she can't subtract this band size from her bust measurement to find her cup size if she wishes. (i am practically flat chested and wear a d cup, so you might want to find out her true size as 90% of women are wearing ill fitting bras as they follow the average bra size calculator to figure it out, or they just guess which is never correct). now have you siblings feel her breast and find where it stops on the side of her torso. measure from this point to the adjacent point on the other side of her torso. then measure from the same point, around her breast, to the adjacent side. compare the measurements. is her back really larger than her bust? pretty much no women alive have a back that is larger porportionally then it should be. fat just does not store on the back of the human body. only people who's backs are hunching very badly or have some physical ailment or disformity have a "large back." it just doesn't exist among regular people with no medical issues. and as a side note, it is likely that if not for some ailing or medical issue this women likely widened the back to make the garment larger is because it would be an easier alteration to make instead of letting out the sides or the front of the garment. they are fairly complex garments and letting out the back seam would have been much easier to do.
Meemaw is giving me hope! As a 6ft tall female with a 30 inch waist I never thought I'd look good in Victorian pieces but after watching the livestream/video you did with Noelle & Kenna I'm getting more and more hopeful :D Also, I have to say, the doggies are just too cute!
I very much enjoy getting to see the analysis of old, wonderful garments. Love the trip through the seams, the interlining, the trims, and the techniques used. So much fun. Thanks!
I've noticed my clothing lasting longer since I've moved to Arizona. I never thought about climate conditions and clothing. Thanks for the info. Love your channel. Its also nice of you to address the size thing.
I love Meemaw!!!! I’ve watched all of your videos. She had linebacker shoulders, like I do. I love the sleeve gore. I love the coat too. It’s pretty. Janky, messy alterations are interesting. This was fun!!! Thanks Abby!!! See you next week!!!
I really enjoyed seeing a professionally made garment! I strive to sew at the professional level but so many historical garments I've seen (through UA-cam) were homemade. It's really good to see the professional finishes but also that they left the gathering thread exposed and in place!
24in waist and 32in bust here! I’m new to the historical garment world, so it was actually pretty cool to hear you talk about this erroneous perception that people with my measurements were the “norm”. They’d have a hard time finding bras that fit in 2020, I can tell you that 😂 anyways, Memaw is probably my favorite garment so far! The green coat is beautiful and I’d love to have something like it 😍 but Memaw stole the show! Love your videos!
Boobs grow significantly in pregnancy. That was my first thought but then I remembered my grandma who has a belly and back fat but has lost a lot of chest.
I think if it was for maternity wear it wouldn't be played with as much. I feel then like now if you had the money you would buy a couple of maternity outfits to see you through half a dozen pregnancies
The sleeve details on the dark green jacket are really interesting; so do you think it could have originally made in the 1890s, then altered in the early 1900s when the large sleeve puffs were no longer fashionable?
I love how you took apart the glove argument one precise rebuttal at a time. I used to work in historic collections n the National Park Service. I love your channel!
You should have a whole series titled “Bad sewing is historically accurate”. And just show bad sewing on the inside that makes garments look great in the outside.
That was actually one of my favorite parts of this video. Seeing the rough stitching that finished it all so beautifully!
The reason so many 'extra small' dresses and items still survive is precisely because they weren't the general size, so didn't become hand-me-downs or could be comfortably re-sized for others.
I love that Meemaw had pit stains... I feel like that's something never talked about in antique clothing! Everyone sweats, even demure Victorian ladies!
I have wondered about this myself. They didn't have antiperspirant back then! These tight arms would have me sweating visible circles in no time, even while using antiperspirant! Good to see evidence that people did also sweat back in the day 😅😅
@@chrisfarmer6893 if you have ever seen an old sears catalog they sold armpit liners to help absorb sweat!
ChrisFarmer back in the day most fabrics were made of cotton and other absorbent fabrics. Nowadays everything has polyester. That is the worst fabric ever. Polyester is basically plastic fabric which is why we sweat more perfumery than before. Try syranwrap and see how much you sweat. Now note that polyester is basically doing the same thing on a more hybrid scwle .
Dress shields!!!!
@@flowingwaters5118 I mean, they also wore shifts and corset covers etc. So there were probably at least 2 layers of fabric between the skin and the outer garment.
I've never understood the myth of extremely small waists being standard -- most women had children, and pregnancy, especially multiple pregnancies, were very likely to permanently alter the figure. Menopause also often causes weight gain. There's a reason almost all the photos of women with small waists are of teenagers and very young women (and were often manipulated to make the waist look even smaller), while older women tend to be stouter.
Agreed. Additionally, Most photos are probably of young women because more mature women were too busy to sit for photographs !
People think that women in the olden days were killing themselves with tight laced corsets
I love Greek & roman statues because its physical evidence that they thought being a little chubby was absolutely a desired figure. Being full figured meant you were wellfed, AKA a good baby maker lol
@@gabbyb9418 it also meant that they had enough money to gain the weight as well
@@tavrosnitram1529 yep you have the luxury to eat well & you aren't a laborer is what it indicated mostly
Loved your rant about glove comments - my husband is an academic librarian who does a lot of work with rare/historic books (and newspapers and other paper/publication things) and he NEVER wears gloves and gets just as frustrated with all the (probably well-meaning but also condescending) comments about gloves as you do. I just summarized your rant for him and he very much approved. :)
I feel his pain. I'm a manuscripts and special collections librarian and the ONLY times we wear gloves are for photographs or for anything that has red rot. It can be absolutely frustrating to have people comment about gloves who don't have any experience/expertise with the materials I work with every day.
HUMAN OILS ARE GOOD FOR CERTAIN ANTIQUES/OLD THINGS. Literally learned this my first year of archaeology school/college
ScotGirl1314 Hell, even wearing gloves and handling modern/new paper is a crapshoot, let alone fragile historical paper. The next person who says this to you, dare them to wear gloves while reading a book. When they inevitably tear a corner or crease a page maybe they’ll realize how ignorant they sound.
You should see the notebooks I have from school - everything from a classroom looks pristine, but the ones from labs are all raggedy from turning pages with gloves on.
Yaaassss, gloves are to protect US from red rot, not the other way around!!
Yay for librarians! So many people just know what they've seen of "conservation" on film.
I do not have a degree in historical fashion/costuming/textile conservation. I DO have a degree in Surgical Technology, so if you want to know the proper gloving procedures for invasive vs. non-invasive surgery, ask away. I will not, however, assume to know how to handle extant garments. I’ll leave that to Abby...who DOES have a degree in historical fashion, and imho, is an absolute genius.
I LOVE that you take us so deep into each garment. I learn more from 20 minutes of you showing us your collection than any book or website. It’s the personal touch of having an enthusiastic teacher pointing out all the great details that makes it so worthwhile. Your panel with Noelle and Kenna was wonderfully informative, too.
On a somewhat unrelated topic... I so appreciate content creators, such as yourself, who focus on being so positive even when dealing with internet trolls. You are honest and straightforward without ever being cruel. I made a resolution several years ago to keep my online presence honest and positive and I avoid channels that revel in drama and negativity. Yours is exactly the type of content I seek out. Thank you for all you do, and have a beautiful week.
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ Thank you! I'm not big on confrontation, but I know I had to say something, simply because it was becoming more and more noticeable and not something that I could just ignore. I'm so grateful for your support and friendship, and I'm so glad you are here! ❤️❤️❤️
As somebody who is a textile conservation student, currently doing a FIVE YEAR DEGREE in conservation, I hereby approve of all of Abby's techniques when handling her collections. She is doing it right. It's how I work too. We wear gloves when it is appropriate, sometimes, for example to protect ourselves from dangerous things on the objects, like pesticides. But standard practice is ungloved washed hands.
Well said!💗💗👏👏👏👏👏
So often I also wince when documents are examined with cotton-gloved hands, from people who should know better!
@@catherinerw1 (yep. me too.)
Yes, THAT should be a series. Like Sewing Is Hard--but Historical!! Terrible Alteration Advice brought to you by HISTORY!
Given the alterations made to Meemaw, I agree that she was a more life experienced individual. Letting out the back, more room around the waist to hip area while also taking in excess fabric at the side waist makes me wonder if she potentially had mobility issues, and was seated most of the time.
1) as we age, and especially while sitting, we tend to round out the back and slump forward more, which means we need more ease in the back/shoulder area
2) as we sit, especially in a rounded posture, our fleshy bits tend to bulge up and out, so more ease is needed around the high hip/tum area
3) this would also cause buckling/creasing of the fabric at the side waist, thus the fish dart.
Just some thoughts from someone that works in Physical Therapy, and sees modern people with posture related pain
Thank you for adding this!
That makes so much sense!
Thanks for your information!
Makes total sense. My grandmother developed a hump as she aged but her breasts reduced quite a bit and she carried her weight around her belly and hips, so I could imagine her clothes would have shown the same alterations and shaping as Meemaw's.
Wish you were here to help me fit this bodice to my rounded, slumping body. Paula (the picture is my husband, he is rounding in a different way)
I love the MeeMaw. Also, can you imagine the woman who made this garment - she probably never thought her work would be in someone’s collection in 2020.
The tailored look of that green coat is positively droolworthy.
I agree.
wishing i was talented enough to make one for myself. absolutely beautiful
My grandmother had a dress from her great-grandmother that was hand made in 1866 as part of her wedding trousseau. The dress sports a "teeny" tiny 18-inch waist. When I commented that people were so tiny grandmother informed me the dress survived because it was very special and it had not been worn but a handful of times before her grandmother (who was 15 years old at the time of her marriage) started having children. Things have changed in the last 200 years but the size of the normal healthy human is not among them.
Back in the 90s, when I was a size 14 (small for me at 6 ft tall) I always found alot of great vintage clothes. I still have a 1930s wool crepe evening gown that I wore even up to a size 18. One store where I live used to try and tell me that they couldn't find plus size vintage. I think they just weren't looking.
Oh that's amazing! And what an insight, to think that what we're seeing is a huge amount of selection bias by the people who were literally selecting vintage items for display and resale.
@@AnHeC That's exactly why we have small things...you said it, you're small when you're a teen and you keep that cute special (tiny) dress. :)
I absolutely LOVE how you treat the garments as individuals, instead of just another piece of clothing. They definitely have a personality, as did the people who wore them, we can assume, and it's really sweet that you help them live on in a way. 😊
In archaeology, while we did use nitrile gloves, but generally if there is a chance of being too rough, you err on the side of bare delicate hands.
But with archaeology I imagine there’s more danger of coming into contact with stuff that could harm you if it got on your skin.
Nillie Not really, pottery mainly.
History Mysteries
So not _that_ much more danger. Of course, it depends a lot on what you’re handling. Green Victorian wallpaper? Probably want gloves. Bit of unglazed pottery? Probably don’t need gloves, unless they’re to protect your fingers against sharp edges.
Ive heard this before but ive never had a chance to actually ask a person this; is it true irl Archaeology is basically like 98% studying pottery shards?
sergeantbigmac I studied Ancient Greek and Roman so we looked at skeletons and jewellery and tombs too but because of what survives, most museum back rooms are full of roof tiles and boring pots and oil lamps.
After watching Karolina's video about the Victorian photoshop I'll never trust them ever again (?) 😂
The "photoshop" skills back in those days are could be ridiculously good at times, especially considering how super tiny details they had to work on
I love that video! I had never noticed it before because I was looking at the whole photo but now when I focus on the tiny bits sometimes it's obvious that there are brush strokes which should not exist on Victorian pics. Love it.
A HA it wasn’t that tiny. The negatives were contact negatives, the same size as the print, usually 8 x 10 or more. Making touch ups much easier that one would think. If you really want to see some people who know the old photographic secrets, check out the the George Eastman Museum of photography in Rochester NY. They have videos on their website and when things get back to normal, they even have classes in things like retouching.
@@crystaledwards9878 Thank you!
"Single use waste" of nitrile gloves. I'm in the medical community and I hate how much plastic waste we produce. Thank you for not willfully contributing to the plastic crisis.
Reduce, reuse, recycle everyone!
the medical field is the one of the only I forgive for creating such waste. Other industries dont have quite the same excuse as saving lives..
@@shewany5343 I 100% agree
Have they invented corn plastic gloves that biodegrade yet. Like they have corn plastic forks and cups.
Honestly though the medical field gets a pass on its plastic usage . It's a necessity you need gloves . Especially during the pandemic
Hooray! More Memaw content! "If it's good enough for Memaw, it's good enough for me." has become my new sewing mantra. As a little round dumpling of a woman with a very short waist myself, I personally really appreciate Memaw. I love your content :)
whats not to like about dumplings? they are delicious ! ;)
I have family photos that prove that Victorian/Edwardian ladies weren't all dainty little things eg. my ggg-aunt and gggg-aunt were larger ladies and look very comfortable in their bodies and classy in their clothes.
@Silicone Julie I'm not just talking about weight. My ggg-aunt was nearly as tall as her husband and sons and very broad shouldered.
@@expatpiskie my grandmother was 6 feet tall and grandpa was about 5 lol
My grandmother’s aunts and great-aunts were tallish and stout also. I’ve always known the truth about the beautiful range of sizes that humans have always come in. We still have some of the pictures in my family archives. These pictures show plump, Edwardian women dressed to nines.
I’d like to think one hundred years from now someone might well be looking at my clothes for historical reasons. Unfortunately, they probably won’t be able to see the super boring stuff I wear on a daily basis. That stuff just isn’t going to survive. My beautiful mid-century style full-skirted party dresses on the other hand, probably will. Would a hypothetical fashion historian in 100-200 years think that was all I wore just because it survives? It’s a fair point about textile conservation. Very few of the things people wore daily survive the ravages of time. Most of the things I wear currently probably won’t either.
@Silicone Julie 70% of what population? The US? Cus a great portion of the world is starving
@@Stettafire Sure....no CCP crackdown on the Food Kings....no pics of super fast azz kids in china.....You Tube ids lying about it all.....photo shopping the pics and making fake bids to piss off XiJi Poohbear.!!!!
Abby: Here's an example of the most perfect tailored garment I've ever seen.
Garment: *has hidden janky alterations on it*
Abby: ... WE WERE ALL ROOTING FOR YOU. HOW DARE YOU!
I kinda love it. It WAS a perfectly tailored jacket when it began its life. But then the person who bought it lost a bit of weight maybe, and they have some basic sewing skills, and they really don’t want to spend money on sending it to a professional to alter. So they do it themselves. Because no way are they going to just stop wearing their gorgeous green jacket! I’ll just nip it in a bit myself, can’t be too hard...
And get, if it worked... at least they were able to get more love and wear out of a lovely jacket.
I can’t lie I’ve done that exact alteration ‘technique’ before
NGL, I’m doing that in 2020.
Genuine question!
Is it possible that the curvier women from times past, would have their pieces altered and reused within a family until it was no longer useable, thus we see less "evidence" of the curvier clothing items, where as someone who was dainty wouldn't have been able to get more use of it, or if they did, more limited use?
This makes a lot of sense to me and Bernadette Banner has said something similar I think! IIRC she said tinier garments or garments with exaggerated tiny waists would've been worn by high society women concerned with fashion ie they had more time and money to afford precious delicate clothes that they only wore occasionally. Your idea makes a lot of sense too and both point to the overall idea that extent garments probably belonged to the extremely wealthy and so are not a good indicator of general trends.
They actually talk about this in the live stream they did!
@@Ducreuxs oh wow! I haven't been able to watch it yet, I'll def check out asap tho! :)
Hello, historical costumer here. Yes that is one of the theories as to why many existing garments are of a small size. Fabric and clothing was an investment for the average family, and good fabric or clothing not being used was likely to have been repurposed. Garments which were very small are harder to alter as there is less fabric and alterations made would have to fit someone very small. As we can see on Abby’s coat, someone later on took a larger coat and fit it for themselves. This isn’t always true, but something to keep in mind.
I’m going to pull an example of thin air here: let’s say hypothetically a woman in 1860 had just had a new outfit made up. It’s the absolute latest and best fashion. Beautiful in every way. A nice cotton day dress in a pretty fabric. Massive skirt meant to wear over a cage crinoline. She wears it for several years, but takes great care of her clothes. By 1872, the fashions have changed so much that her, still very pretty dress that she still loves, isn’t really “wearable” anymore. By this time, Mrs. Hypothetical also has a daughter or two that need new clothes to wear. I could totally see the skirt getting taken apart and the fabric re-used for pretty dresses for a little girl.
Just a hypothetical, but believable scenario to me.
I - love - you just that simple. I knew your channel from Bernadette. I don't own or want to own such garments but I enjoy historical fashion and admire the beautiful community that you all have. You make me laugh and learn! thank you! Lots of love from Uruguay!
These garments are absolutely beautiful. It makes me so happy to see how much you care for your pieces. Thank you for sharing your collection with us!
Thank you, and it's my pleasure! If you would have told 21 year old me that I would have a rapidly growing antique clothing collection that I shared via youtube and been able to support myself this way, I would have died from happiness and disbelief! 😂
Id love to hear more about how clothes were altered for pregnancy. I can’t imagine they could always afford new garnets for just a few months
All that extra room between the shoulders on "Meemaw" suggests a widow's hump to me, I've had to gore a few shirts to move "chest" fabric around to the back to get shoulders to lie straight on a gentleman with a rather advanced case.
Loved this video. I find it hilarious that people are judging you for not wearing gloves when they probably have 1) never handled an antique garment in their life or 2) gone to school for history or historical preservation. 😐
That coat was gorgeous! Love seeing tangible evidence that 'no, actually, people weren't all tiny petite dolls back in ye olden days'.
People will stop complaining about the gloves when they stop telling Townsends, who uses 18th century techniques to do things, to use a chainsaw.😒🙄
Love Abby!
Beagle is Sleeping I had forgotten about that.
I'll never forget how he got so many comments day in and day out about what "Jas." meant that he literally had to change the name of his godamn business and YT channel, which remember would include the nightmare of changing all paperwork associated with merchandising and business licenses too. It literally did not matter how many times he answered people or addressed it on his channel btw. The contradiction that people are patronizing his online store/YT channel through the internet (the greatest research resource in human history) but refuse to look up something like that is representative of the internet itself lol.
@@sergeantbigmac and of course let's not forget their "controversial" Mt Vernon video that had absolutely nothing to do with something totally unrelated. 💣
I picture Meemaw looking a bit Dame Judi Dench like, sitting in a rocking chair on a little porch, knitting a little white baby cap for an expected grandchild with tiiiiiiny knitting needles. Rocking away and humming tunelessly. Greeting everyone that walks by her house, because you KNOW Meemaw knows everybody and everybody knows Meemaw.
Or maybe even Dame Maggie, as Violet from Downton Abbey. Raised eyebrow and pursed lips abound lol
I cant totally see both ^_^ haha !
So basically Memaw was Miss Jane Marple, and nobody got away with anything under her watch 😂😂😂
@@cincocats320 Well, except her favorite granddaughter, that girl could get away with murder! *Whispers* And she did. Dun dun dun!
What is the name of that syndrome where less learned persons believe themselves to be grandly learned because they know so very little about the subject that they don't know at all how much they don't know? As a retired public school teacher I often met people who had been to high school, so they felt qualified to tell me how to do my job. It can get a little frustrating. You handled it beautifully. "Break no bones, but take no crap." You are a grand girl, Abby! Hang in there.
Roxie Poe Trump😀
The Dunning-Kruger effect, is what I think you are describing. I agree, Abby handled it very well!
My mother refers to it as "too stupid to know how stupid they are". Ruthless.
Insufferable wannabe know-it-alls you mean?
Right?! I've watched her videos before and been like "Huh... I'm surprised she's not wearing gloves. Oh well, she's much more knowledgeable than I am. I'm sure she knows what she's doing."
I found you from the size inclusion video and loved it so much. THANK YOU, thank you for talking about it.
Yay! I'm glad you enjoyed it! Kenna is such a great researcher and I was so happy to be included! ❤️
Aww Memaw! Thanks for getting more indepth with her and the wool coat. Both are beautiful, character filled pieces. 😊
agreed! I love how every antique garment has a story, a personality, and quirk. It makes them seem so real, and helps give life to the person who wore it and the people who made them. 😍
Bravo for speaking up for yourself against trolls and haters. People forget the manners their mothers taught them when it comes to social media! Let's be kind to each other!💗✌💗
Watching you discover new things about the garments was the most adorable thing ever
May I just say that I love how you handled the "glove issue" You were classy and funny without belittling anyone or feeding the trolls. Well done. It's a joy to watch your channel.
Omg folks, go watch her earlier videos if you haven't - they're so good! And Abby, you do an awesome job of being consistent in the high quality of your videos and content. You inspire me to create! thank you ❤️💜
Edit: 13:15 ooh ooh! Can you tell us how you'd do this better? In another video? Or maybe showcase janky vs awesome alterations in historical garments?
This is a great suggestion! Yes! Abby, do this. Okay?
I loved the look into Memaw, and that green coat is gorgeous!
I don't know much about historical fashion, I'm just a fan, but I do wonder if the interesting design choices in MeeMaw might be because old ladies are particular. I'm sure she wanted to be fashionable, but she also might have liked certain 'outdated' touches, or things that help with making an older body look nice
The one thing about being older is the patience one develops is having to listen to someone who isn't older speak about the likes and dislikes of older women, as if you cease to be an individual.
My grandma at eighty had her own unique style. She wore what she liked and was very opinionated about what she wanted to wear. Zero percent trend following, but one hundred percent wearing what she damn well pleased.
I really love seeing these kinds of garments up close on the inside. I'm a relatively new garment seamstress (just over a year) and it is very demoralizing to see my products versus the gorgeous things I'd love to make. Seeing the imperfections and wonky construction and alterations on something as gorgeous as that green coat just makes me feel so much better about what I make.
I discovered a yiddish language tailoring manual (which is also available in English) called Weinberg’s Cloak and Dress Cutter, that gives a very diverse range of sizes, I believe it goes up to a 40” waist if I’m remembering correctly. I think this is particularly interesting because it was a tailoring manual written for immigrant tailors in New York who would have been tailoring for immigrant women, mostly from Eastern Europe, who would not have been upper class by any means.
archive.org/details/weinbergscloaksk00wein
Oh thank you for the info!! And the link
I'm 32 have 4 homeschool kiddos and I'm starting a history degree. Your channel is apart of my decision in doing so. When I was I middle school we were asked what we wanted to be. I raised my hand and said " I want to be a historian" The teacher actually laughed at me and said that is a job for men. I carried that into my life. Watching you has inspired me to start a new life! I still love history and I'm so excited for this school year almost 20 years in the making ❤
Wow, that was said to me in the , I did not realize they were still doing that.
what a d+++++++g teacher, I am so sorry to hear that. you go, girl!
I'm gonna need that "good enough for MeMaw" shirt.
Also, that coat... I'll be in my bunk.
Thanks for the conservation info. I'm new to the channel and was so busy enjoying your content that I didn't even think about it.
But yeh, now I think about it, what you say is exactly what they taught us when working in the provincial archives and museum collections.
Good for you not wasting resources that are needed in the medical community! The curators at the museum don't wear gloves either.
Off to watch your other videos on this topic. Thanks again.
That coat is so Bernadette Banner! I have learned so much watching all of you dedicated clothing historians and re-creators.
yaaay another video ill be sending every facebook group that has people going crazy about how "omgg they had the smallest waist when WOMEN WERE WOMEN!!" after every edited picture.
Omg Mima would fit me like a glove!! I'm broad shouldered, small busted, with a little pooch below natural waist. Fish darts sound like what I need for the massive hip spring differential I have. I love her ❤
This is your channel and these are your items in your collection that you own. I love that you addressed this. We love you Abby!!! Loved the green coat. Drool!! Omg.
I really want to get familiar with historical clothing and sewing where I could be able to analyze clothing like you do. It's just so fascinating!
Wonderful visit as always! I will never “glove shame” you! You know your stuff, and it does make perfect sense to me. I didn’t wear gloves when I restored a 1550 Bishop’s Mantle. It would have been impossible to attempt otherwise! Keep up the great work. Such a joy!
Is there a place where you tell the whole story, illustrated of course, of the restoration of the 1550 Bishop's Mantle? I would be allllllllllll over that.
Roxie Poe I took several hundred still pictures of the process, and a couple of short videos. Believe it or not until yesterday I didn’t even have a tripod for my iPhone! So truly life in the Middle Ages! I am supposed to put it all together as a written account to be donated to the Oakeshott Institute. Then COVID happened.
Having a good time, learning about historical clothing, and then BAM attacked by Bucky Barnes being dusted. Education with a side serving of cinematic trauma LOL
Too soon! 😭
I thought the same, just sat here, “ohhhhh nooooo...!!!”
I'm glad someone knew who that was! It wasn't in the "credits" part of Abby's video. Thank you.
Yes! Attacked is how I felt as well. I just 😨
I had no idea about the gloves stuff, but as someone who refused to wear gloves in -10 degree weather (F) until my riding instructor wouldn’t let me on the horse, uh, mood!
Also, the way you talk about the Meemaw garment makes me want to meet Meemaw the person. So fascinating!!!
Edit: at some point, would you be willing to do a video about dissolving/shattering fabrics? Totally okay if not!
All this work for finding different body sizes in historic clothing is so liberating. I think watching some period dramas and old movies with tiny tiny women probably contributed to my body issues, so this work really helps me and I'm sure others feel much more comfortable in their own skin. Thank you Abby you're amazing ☺️
Yes! Thank you so much for your lecture on NOT wearing gloves. I am of the same school, and get so many “condescending comments” on my videos for not wearing them. This made me smile.
I'm in love with MeMaw! It makes me feel so much better about the 1870s-ish bodice I'm working on now.
12:42 I love your brain thinking editing sounds.
I remember the good old days of AOL... takes me back 😂
Thanks for the inside look in (of) Meemaw... Loved it!
But....
When can we buy the merche. I need a cup with 'What 's good enough for Meemaw is good enough for me'
This is fantastic information, thank you so much for sharing! It can get disheartening to only ever see smaller garments surviving. (I'd assume because people didn't stay that tiny long enough for the items to degrade over years of wear.)
Another awesome Sunday video from our gal Abby. Love the pups at the end. That coat is beautiful. Sorry about the know-it-all's. Thanks for another informative episode.
It 230 in the morning here in Japan and I’m trying hard to not giggle or agree with you vocally and wake my husband. Thank you for the awesome video.
Darn those are so lovely!!! I want the green coat!! I don’t have the room or the knowledge to collect but am really enjoying collecting vicariously through UA-cam!! This is so very much nicer than seeing a garment in a museum. I love that you show everything!! I’m here for the guts!! And construction commentary!!
I think in general people were smaller because they did more manual labor and didn’t eat all the fast food and junk food today’s people do. When I was growing up in the 50’s and 60’s we were told to stand up straight and hold in our stomachs (at least I was). To this day it’s still kind of automatic to hold in my stomach. Today’s girls, even relatively thin girls, all seem to have flab around the middle. In high school I had a 34 inch bust, 23 inch waist and 33 inch hips. I wore 3’s and 5’s which is the equivalent of today’s zeroes and ones. I can only recall a couple of girls in my high school that were what I would call fat. I’m now a senior citizen and have a few extra pounds but even so I don’t have the stomach or thighs that a lot of today’s teens do.
the tailored coat, especially the trimming on the top of the coat. It's also nice that the trim followed to the waist. Even if the waist was not very small, (anything is smaller waisted than I !!!) it gave the illusion of a small waist. (I have to practice that one ALOT!!) Your videos are always so nice to watch. Just the right balance of seriousness and joy! Thank you so much!
I don't know what happened to my first sentence, but it was supposed to say: I just loved the tailored coat....Thanks....
Thanks for the 'glimpse' into the lives of the women who wore these lovely garments!
Yep, I hate wearing cotton gloves. My hands are tools, and sensitivity is totally lost when I have to wear those atrocious things! Beautiful garments, thanks for the tour!
It would be so cool to see these historical garments recreated so they could be worn by models that were similar proportions so we could see what the garments were meant meant to look like in their prime.
I just love seeing all of the pretties in your collection being loved, cherished, and shared ❤️
I also want to express all the gratitude to your dogs for sharing your time and attention with us. Their sacrifices are not unnoticed.
Thank you so much for this and your other videos. As a plus size woman, I know from photos of my mom's family and oral history of my dad's family they were big people on both sides of my house. My mom's people were tall and big, my dad's people were shorter, but, big. I have the enlistment papers of an ancestor from the Union Army during the Civil War. He was 6'2" and 250lbs, at the time of his enlistment. I have a copy of a CDV taken 9f him and another younger man. The younger man wasn't quite as tall as my ancestor, but, he probably weighed just as much. My dad was 5'9" when he enlisted in WWII. My mom always thought he was so small. That is because all of the men and most of the woman on both sides of her family were tall, large people. My grandmother was 5'10 1/2", her father was at least 6'1" or taller, my grandfather, my mom's father was 6'3". My mom was the shortest in her family at 5'6", which is not short. I am only 5'3", so in my family, some of us have gotten shorter rather than taller. Most of us carry extra weight. I carry more than just a little extra. Thank you for showing not everyone was tiny. The way you get an "average" is to take a sampling of say 1000 men and 1000 women. You add up their height and weight, then divide it by the number of people in the sampling and extrapolate out from there.
thank you!! i've recently come across your channel & appreciate your authenticity & integrity!! those are so clearly central values that when the music came on around 10:30 to show off the first piece i just KNEW you chose a musical piece that's relevant & appropriate to & reflective of the garment's age & time. its the little things.
I find it delightfully serendipitous that it was a Sunday when Abby shot this video and I also happen to be watching this on a Sunday. X)
Also! I happened to watch that aforementioned Cocovid (I want to call it a lecture?) discussion on the topic! It was quite fascinating and very informative, especially since it's a subject that's more likely to be briefly foot-noted than openly talked of. Knowing for a fact that people were still people brings me a sense of relief. We're not so different at our base level, and to see evidence of that from extant garments is wonderful. :)
Your channel is one of the best things I have found during a Covid-inspired search for sanity through UA-cam videos. Thank you and best wishes.
Thank you for conserving nitrile gloves for people who need them for protection from COVID-19!
I love these videos so much, I honestly think I must have lived in that time in a past life 🤔
Thank you so much for producing such great content!!!
Oh My Gosh! I grew up about 15 minutes away from East Orange NJ! I'm not sure why but that really gave me a little kick- I love to think about what the people in my hometown and the surrounding area might've been doing and what they might've been wearing 150 years ago. Thanks so much for posting, as usual :)
As a person of a certain age and size, I can totally relate to Memaw. Thank you so much for this video and for the Cocovid discussion!
I loved the live chat you did with Costuming Drama and Kenna. It was really interesting. Also I want that jacket. It's so gorgeous.
Great video as always! Ooh, “moth holes” . . . Would you consider a video addressing moths and other common fiber critters, how they’ve been dealt with historically and how you deal with them now? A number of articles seem to point to an increase over the past few years both in individual homes, vintage/resale shops and museum collections. Are they actually on the increase or are we just more aware of them now? Thanks!
one thing I find interesting about looking at these historic clothes is how different the internal finishing was. At trade school I was taught about "hanger appeal" and how you're supposed to finish commercial garments on the inside, but the first garment here shows that people were willing to just have the inside looking rough as hell as long as it was structurally sound and not going to come undone. Of course the garment has deteriorated so it looks rougher than it would have previously, but I'm so used to every jacket having a bagged out lining or a hong kong seam finish and not just being able to see where the trim was stitched on
Personally, I love the videos where you look at your collection for us. It has personally done a lot for me in the realm of confidence. I'm just starting out on making clothing from that era and watching the beautiful sewing from the costubers can be a little intimidating. Seeing that the seams in actual garments are not picture perfect makes me a lot more confident that I can succeed in making my own garments without shaming myself.
I had been wondering about the preservation of your collection, but I assumed you were very careful about it (especially since you seem really professional when talking about antique clothing in general) ❤️
Glad you brought it up though, it must be somewhat stressful to be accused of mishandling your hair collection by complete strangers - love you Abby!
Doggie noses!!! Would you ever consider doing a ‘recreation’ of a historical dress? I’m specifically thinking of the brown poplin that has been described in Laura Ingalls Wilder’s book ‘These Happy Golden Years’. (Chapter 19 on page 157 - but who’s counting) Generally 1882... 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼❤️
I’ve watched enough of your videos to know that gloves or no gloves you handle these garments with great respect and care and wouldn’t do anything that would damage them if you could help it. It is wonderful to see these beautiful garments and have you go over the construction of them. Thank you.
Hi Abby! Thank you very much for sharing your personal collection with us. I have always been interested in "Victorian" fashion; which I primarily satisfied through Halloween costumes. Gasp! I know, but now I have several channels here on the UA-cam to help educate me. Both of your books are set to arrive this week...Eeek...so excited. 💜
just watching this fantastic video and crocheting a blanket. life is good.
Thank you for having human-edited captioning. I really do appreciate that.
But this video does make the point I’ve recently been screaming from the rooftops about UA-cam discontinuing Community Captioning. That even human edited captions, done by people who are not informed on the subject matter are going to make glaring mistakes.
Those are some lovely “arms-eye sleeves”. The word you’re looking for is “armscye”. Also Tarleton appears to be a university in Texas. The fabric is tarletan. A community captioner would know this - or be interested enough (and not on an extremely tight deadline) to look it up as I just did.
I’m all for paying humans to edit auto-generated captions, it helps a lot and I am not giving you crap for making the additional effort to have good captions. I give them full points for them being synched properly and being coherent text blocks - something a community captioner, using the available UA-cam interface and working off auto-generated captions is less likely to achieve. They did a pretty solid job.
Except failing to caption the dial-up-modem noises. Which might be a case of a younger person not recognizing the noise, and being unable to label it anything meaningful. And not having caught the joke themselves - were unaware it was integral to offering equitable understanding.
Public service announcement: Community captioning can still be turned on, and used until Sept 28. Having 3 videos use community captions between now and then will also earn creators 6-months of free captioning services. support.google.com/youtube/thread/61967856?hl=en
Ultimately, thank you for the effort Abby. You’re doing it right.
i have a sibling that has a small cup but a large back so they have surprisingly large shirts. the green coat, the way the braid comes from the waist to the hip with such a smooth line accenting the difference between the two points is such a grace note, wonderful.
i am not saying this from a condescending place. most women think that they have small boobs and large backs. hence why everytime their bra stops fitting they adjust this by going up another band/back size when they should probably be going up 2 cups sizes and down a band size.the female human body is just not built to have a "large back" and small bust. i would highly suggest that your sibling do actual measurements. if her back was larger than her front she would look very weird and very hunch backed. most women who think this tend to just have very shallow breasts that don't project very much, it doesn't make them smaller, they just take up more room on the chest then some one with more projected breasts. therefore making them think they have small breasts. make sure you help out your sibling when taking the measurements because if she doesn't have help her measurements will likely be wrong as it is too difficult for us to keep the tape measurer straight as we try to take a circumferencial measurement around our own body. first is to measure the under bust/band area. Which is directly underneath the breast tissue on the rib cage. the measure tape needs to be in a straight line around the torso parallel to the floor. she either needs to be wearing a skin tight very thin tank top or nothing at all. do not wear a bra every to take measurements. then measure around the fullest part of the breast. the under bust measurement is what band size she should be wearing. she can't subtract this band size from her bust measurement to find her cup size if she wishes. (i am practically flat chested and wear a d cup, so you might want to find out her true size as 90% of women are wearing ill fitting bras as they follow the average bra size calculator to figure it out, or they just guess which is never correct). now have you siblings feel her breast and find where it stops on the side of her torso. measure from this point to the adjacent point on the other side of her torso. then measure from the same point, around her breast, to the adjacent side. compare the measurements. is her back really larger than her bust? pretty much no women alive have a back that is larger porportionally then it should be. fat just does not store on the back of the human body. only people who's backs are hunching very badly or have some physical ailment or disformity have a "large back." it just doesn't exist among regular people with no medical issues.
and as a side note, it is likely that if not for some ailing or medical issue this women likely widened the back to make the garment larger is because it would be an easier alteration to make instead of letting out the sides or the front of the garment. they are fairly complex garments and letting out the back seam would have been much easier to do.
Tsubi completely steals the show at the end. I swear I forgot what you had just said.
So I guess I'll watch this again
Thank you for validating my 30" waist
Speaking as someone who used to have a 26" waist and is no a full 1 0" larger. ..I concur.
@@wangofree except a year later I seem to be expanding😆😵
@@joeastham0 I'm with ya there!
Meemaw is giving me hope! As a 6ft tall female with a 30 inch waist I never thought I'd look good in Victorian pieces but after watching the livestream/video you did with Noelle & Kenna I'm getting more and more hopeful :D
Also, I have to say, the doggies are just too cute!
I very much enjoy getting to see the analysis of old, wonderful garments. Love the trip through the seams, the interlining, the trims, and the techniques used. So much fun. Thanks!
Yeay! A close look at Meemaw! Both of those garments are gorgeous! Thank you for sharing your collection and your expertise. You rock!
I'm here for dial up Abby. I love the confusion. Also, loving the rant on the condescending remarks.
I've noticed my clothing lasting longer since I've moved to Arizona. I never thought about climate conditions and clothing. Thanks for the info. Love your channel. Its also nice of you to address the size thing.
Subscribed because of the real talk at the beginning. Thanks. Looking forward to checking out the rest of your posts.
I love Meemaw!!!!
I’ve watched all of your videos.
She had linebacker shoulders, like I do.
I love the sleeve gore.
I love the coat too. It’s pretty.
Janky, messy alterations are interesting.
This was fun!!!
Thanks Abby!!!
See you next week!!!
I really enjoyed seeing a professionally made garment! I strive to sew at the professional level but so many historical garments I've seen (through UA-cam) were homemade. It's really good to see the professional finishes but also that they left the gathering thread exposed and in place!
24in waist and 32in bust here! I’m new to the historical garment world, so it was actually pretty cool to hear you talk about this erroneous perception that people with my measurements were the “norm”. They’d have a hard time finding bras that fit in 2020, I can tell you that 😂 anyways, Memaw is probably my favorite garment so far! The green coat is beautiful and I’d love to have something like it 😍 but Memaw stole the show! Love your videos!
The hand stitching on the inside makes me feel WAY better about my own hand stitching lol
The Memaw bodice could be for a woman who was pregnant at the time, it would explain the alterations for the belly :-)
or an older woman who lost her boobs but gained some belly was my first thought
Didn’t she say that the MeeMaw had more room in the upper back as well? Perhaps MeeMaw had a bit of osteoporosis hump.
@@ReisigSeeds or back boobs. Sometimes fat goes there uninvited.
Boobs grow significantly in pregnancy. That was my first thought but then I remembered my grandma who has a belly and back fat but has lost a lot of chest.
I think if it was for maternity wear it wouldn't be played with as much. I feel then like now if you had the money you would buy a couple of maternity outfits to see you through half a dozen pregnancies
You are just so knowledgable! Don't worry about the critics....they have nothing better to do. Flick! You're awesome!
The sleeve details on the dark green jacket are really interesting; so do you think it could have originally made in the 1890s, then altered in the early 1900s when the large sleeve puffs were no longer fashionable?
I love how you took apart the glove argument one precise rebuttal at a time. I used to work in historic collections n the National Park Service. I love your channel!