Resetting the infinity was really getting to me. Then I realized when I screwed the front element focusing diaphram, I didn't line it up. So I kept re-screwing it in until infinity was correct. You're amazing! I was getting really frustrated, but it ended up making a lot of sense to keep wiggling/trying infinity. Great videos!
all i needed to know was how to fix my filter thread back onto my Centon mc 50mm, genuinely thought the name ring was fixed on and unremovable, then you showed getting it off with the pipe, reminded me of taking the backs off watches and found the trusty squash ball did the trick! thankyou so much!
Thanks for this video, I had fungus inside my MD 50 1.7, with this easy to follow video I was able to disassemble and clean it off the inner surfaces with hand cream.
Hi, I managed to get into the centre part of the sealed lenses by drilling, carefully, 2 holes into opposite sides of sealed unit, until nearly through, then use a scalpel to break through. 2 holes opposite allows cleaning fluid in and out. Then cut a thin strip of a lens cloth and use miniature cotton buds to push the cloth from one side to another. You then just blow lots to clear the inside. Then seal your holes somehow, I just used tape at the moment. Hope this helps..Colin
Thank you for sharing this awesome information - I managed to clean fungus off my 50mm F1.4 Rokkor X lens and declick the appature so I can smoothly change the F-stops on it while filming!!!!
Does 1.4 have also those 2 sealed groups? Did you manage to 'open' it? Mine 1.7 has fungus inside the grouped elements as shown and mentioned in the video but there's no obvious way to get in. Although the lenses within the group assembly are loose and can be rotated i.e. with small suction cup but not screwed-out.
I found an interesting distinction between the screws on the back element in two copies of this lens I have. On one of the copies the screws and lens assembly is just like the one in this video, but in another copy, the screws are small, and there is no "hollowed part" or such. This results in the back element being seated deeper in one lens compared to the other one with longer screws
Matt first I would like to thank you for sharing your videos. I was wondering if you could take apart a Konica Hexanon AR 57mm f1.4? I tried taking off the front lens cover ring to no avail, and I am wondering if I am doing something wrong. I do not want to wreck the lense in the process. Any input you have would be very much appreciated. Thanks for your time, and thank you again for your lens tutorials!
Thank you so much. Am glad I found your channel. I am buying this lens(can't really wait) but I can't find the right adapter for my Canon EOS t3i. I don't want to buy the glass one which will degrade the quality. Which adapter will suit my camera . I can't find anything other than some adapters with glass . Thank you ☺️
Dude, I really appreciate your video, idk if you're gonna reply to this but I'm in need of guidance! So my minolta MD 50mm f1.7's focus is heavy. Then I decided to fix it by myself. After looking for some information online, I learned that I have to regrease the helicoid. So where should I do it? Is it enough just open the back and then put the grease while adjusting the focus? Thanks man!
Worth a try. Keep in mind that you only need a very small amount of grease and make sure to use a heavy, heat-stable grease that won't flow onto the aperture blades or optics. I've used white lithium grease. If the helicoids aren't the issue, check to make sure that none of the internal components are wearing against each other. This can be difficult to track down
thank you for the very informative video. I have trouble removing the small screws on the back of the lens. my screwdrivers seem to be thick for these screws. I use electronic screwdrivers. I mean that the screwdrivers are used by people who assemble electronic circuits. they are pretty slim. however I need a slimmer one. what kind of screws are these on the back? diameter or name or something that I can use to find a proper screwdriver? thanks in advance.
Matt, thanks for the video. I just ordered one to try for Free Lensing / Lens Wacking. I want to remove the back mounting ring to have better play with the lens. If I remove the back mounting ring, how can I secure the back part so the aperture ring does not fall off. Thanks.
I recommend just removing the aperture ring if you are playing around with the lens. The aperture ring is easy to reinstall but the ball bearing is very easy to lose, especially if the aperture ring accidentally slips off the lens while you are fiddling with it
Matt thank you for the awesome video. I have a question regarding the reassembly of the aperture ring. It seems like you have no problem sticking in the aperture ring with the ball bearing, but for me it seems to go out its place because the gap between the lens and the aperture ring is minimum. Can you tell me some tips on how to reassemle it? Thank you
There should be a little hole on the inside of aperture ring for the ball bearing. I generally use a large, flat tipped screw driver to press the ball bearing into this hole while the ring is partially on the lens, and then use the screw driver to hold the ballbearing in place while sliding the aperture ring down onto the lens fully
I just got this lens but for some reason when it's mounted on my mirrorless Fujifilm x-t10 (using MD-FX adapter) the aperture ring will only allow the aperture to open, not close. If I take it off camera it works both ways. If I put it on the adapter with f/22 locked in then it will stay at f/22, I can then open it further but it won't stop back down again. The ring itself turns and clicks but the blades don't move except to open it until wide open. No oil on the blades and it works as expected when it's not mounted on the adapter/camera. Any ideas? I've used the MD f/2 version without issue and my MD f/1.4 also works without issue. Only differance I can see on my f/1.4 version is that the aperture lever is "half moon" shaped instead of "full moon" shaped like on the f/1.7 and f/2. But since the f/2 worked I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
I had that same problem and found out that I had to “shave” the little lever on the back of the MD lens because it kept getting stuck on my adapter. I just used a flat file and it works great
First identify the cause of the problem. Take apart the lens to isolate just the focusing mechanism. If the focusing works well on its own, then the problem is somewhere else in the lens, most likely that some pieces are running into each other during focusing. If the focusing itself is gritty feeling, there may be debris in the focusing coils. For that, fully separate the two parts of the focusing mechanism. Be sure to mark where they fit together before doing this though or reassembly will be difficult. Carefully clean out all the coils and reapply a small amount of lubricant during reassembly. If the focusing is sloppy or stiff on its own, you don't have to fully separate the focusing mechanism in many cases. Just focus out a bit and apply a small amount of lubricant to the coils. Again, you really don't need a lot though.
I must have another version of this lens, because it's exact the same specs but looks different on the inside. Now I have trouble assembling it back together again...Oh, well. There's something different with the focusing mechanism. There is a ring with inner and outer threads. I'll have to figure it out for myself I guess ;) cool vid's though!
Cant you just drop the whole unit, when you have it apart down to the diaphragm, in alcohol to clean the entire diaphragm at one time, instead of taking it apart?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Resetting the infinity was really getting to me. Then I realized when I screwed the front element focusing diaphram, I didn't line it up. So I kept re-screwing it in until infinity was correct. You're amazing! I was getting really frustrated, but it ended up making a lot of sense to keep wiggling/trying infinity. Great videos!
Thank you! This made my day. I have a Minolta XG9 from my grandfather, and I wanted to clean this lens since a long time. Finally made it :)
all i needed to know was how to fix my filter thread back onto my Centon mc 50mm, genuinely thought the name ring was fixed on and unremovable, then you showed getting it off with the pipe, reminded me of taking the backs off watches and found the trusty squash ball did the trick! thankyou so much!
This is such a useful tutorial, I can't thank you enough!
Thanks for this video, I had fungus inside my MD 50 1.7, with this easy to follow video I was able to disassemble and clean it off the inner surfaces with hand cream.
did u have fungus between the elements that were unreachable?
Great work ! Thank you for this interesting video .
It's 2020. This video is still helpful. Thanks!
Hi, I managed to get into the centre part of the sealed lenses by drilling, carefully, 2 holes into opposite sides of sealed unit, until nearly through, then use a scalpel to break through. 2 holes opposite allows cleaning fluid in and out. Then cut a thin strip of a lens cloth and use miniature cotton buds to push the cloth from one side to another. You then just blow lots to clear the inside.
Then seal your holes somehow, I just used tape at the moment. Hope this helps..Colin
Thank you for sharing this awesome information - I managed to clean fungus off my 50mm F1.4 Rokkor X lens and declick the appature so I can smoothly change the F-stops on it while filming!!!!
Does 1.4 have also those 2 sealed groups? Did you manage to 'open' it?
Mine 1.7 has fungus inside the grouped elements as shown and mentioned in the video but there's no obvious way to get in. Although the lenses within the group assembly are loose and can be rotated i.e. with small suction cup but not screwed-out.
I found an interesting distinction between the screws on the back element in two copies of this lens I have. On one of the copies the screws and lens assembly is just like the one in this video, but in another copy, the screws are small, and there is no "hollowed part" or such. This results in the back element being seated deeper in one lens compared to the other one with longer screws
Thanks, I wanted to see the aperture control ring & ball bearing (to de-click the apertures). This did the job for me.
Hello, this is a great video. I have a minolta MD 50mm f1.4. Is this the same procedure for that lens?
also useful for the Zenit 1.8/ 50mm, exactly same inner mechanism and body
Great video! I have a program mode lens. Can program mode work without the ball bearing?
That is a perfect tutorial!! Thank you so much!
thank you ... I now feel better about buying a lens that has some fungus issues ... but I know I need to get the MC and note the MD
Any chance of doing a mirror lens fungus cleaning tutorial...
Great video. I was able to disassemble and clean my lens. Now it's spotless. Thanks.
Matt first I would like to thank you for sharing your videos. I was wondering if you could take apart a Konica Hexanon AR 57mm f1.4? I tried taking off the front lens cover ring to no avail, and I am wondering if I am doing something wrong. I do not want to wreck the lense in the process. Any input you have would be very much appreciated. Thanks for your time, and thank you again for your lens tutorials!
Thank you so much. Am glad I found your channel. I am buying this lens(can't really wait) but I can't find the right adapter for my Canon EOS t3i. I don't want to buy the glass one which will degrade the quality. Which adapter will suit my camera . I can't find anything other than some adapters with glass . Thank you ☺️
Wonder if you have tried to disassemble a sealed element group... found out there’s fungus inside the group, but it’s sealed.....
Dude, I really appreciate your video, idk if you're gonna reply to this but I'm in need of guidance!
So my minolta MD 50mm f1.7's focus is heavy. Then I decided to fix it by myself. After looking for some information online, I learned that I have to regrease the helicoid. So where should I do it? Is it enough just open the back and then put the grease while adjusting the focus? Thanks man!
Worth a try. Keep in mind that you only need a very small amount of grease and make sure to use a heavy, heat-stable grease that won't flow onto the aperture blades or optics. I've used white lithium grease.
If the helicoids aren't the issue, check to make sure that none of the internal components are wearing against each other. This can be difficult to track down
... followed the video to the letter ... cannot turn the focus ring ... please help if you can ...
Has anyone found solution to open plastic case to access inner side of the front glass?
Haw to clean the lenses elements?
thank you for the very informative video. I have trouble removing the small screws on the back of the lens. my screwdrivers seem to be thick for these screws. I use electronic screwdrivers. I mean that the screwdrivers are used by people who assemble electronic circuits. they are pretty slim. however I need a slimmer one. what kind of screws are these on the back? diameter or name or something that I can use to find a proper screwdriver? thanks in advance.
I forgot to mention that my camera is actually an f 1.4 not this certain one.
Matt, thanks for the video. I just ordered one to try for Free Lensing / Lens Wacking. I want to remove the back mounting ring to have better play with the lens. If I remove the back mounting ring, how can I secure the back part so the aperture ring does not fall off. Thanks.
I recommend just removing the aperture ring if you are playing around with the lens. The aperture ring is easy to reinstall but the ball bearing is very easy to lose, especially if the aperture ring accidentally slips off the lens while you are fiddling with it
Do you have any tips for declicking a lens such as this?
Matt thank you for the awesome video. I have a question regarding the reassembly of the aperture ring. It seems like you have no problem sticking in the aperture ring with the ball bearing, but for me it seems to go out its place because the gap between the lens and the aperture ring is minimum. Can you tell me some tips on how to reassemle it? Thank you
There should be a little hole on the inside of aperture ring for the ball bearing. I generally use a large, flat tipped screw driver to press the ball bearing into this hole while the ring is partially on the lens, and then use the screw driver to hold the ballbearing in place while sliding the aperture ring down onto the lens fully
Does this lense work on Nikon D5500?
hey i want to put this lens on my nikon d5600 will it work & what about the infinity focus can anyone help
Hello and thanks for great work
is it possible to do with Canon fd 50mm 1.8 ? please!!!!!
IS THE FRONT DIAPHRAGM ON THIS LENS THE SAME AS THE 50MM 1.7 MD ROKKOR ?
The focus wheel on my 70-210 MD stopper working (turn and stays on same focus) is that repairable?
Can you show some Maxxum DIY vids?
I screwed the two pieces back into the tracks at the first step of reassembly but it won’t let me focus
mine has fungus between the front glas element. someone know hos to open the front glas block?
I just got this lens but for some reason when it's mounted on my mirrorless Fujifilm x-t10 (using MD-FX adapter) the aperture ring will only allow the aperture to open, not close. If I take it off camera it works both ways. If I put it on the adapter with f/22 locked in then it will stay at f/22, I can then open it further but it won't stop back down again. The ring itself turns and clicks but the blades don't move except to open it until wide open. No oil on the blades and it works as expected when it's not mounted on the adapter/camera.
Any ideas?
I've used the MD f/2 version without issue and my MD f/1.4 also works without issue. Only differance I can see on my f/1.4 version is that the aperture lever is "half moon" shaped instead of "full moon" shaped like on the f/1.7 and f/2. But since the f/2 worked I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
I have the same problem with mine. Completely dissasembled it to clean it, now to see if the problem will still be present when I put it back together
Ulf Sandberg have you find out what was the issue? And did you repair it?
I had that same problem and found out that I had to “shave” the little lever on the back of the MD lens because it kept getting stuck on my adapter. I just used a flat file and it works great
Useful!!! Thanks.
As a side question: i would love to have the same green table top... how is it called? Can i buy it on amazon?
cutting mat.
great vid. i got that lens.
I need help with konica 50mm 1.7 can anyone help ?
my f2 version's focus ring is not smooth, how do i get it smooth again?
First identify the cause of the problem. Take apart the lens to isolate just the focusing mechanism. If the focusing works well on its own, then the problem is somewhere else in the lens, most likely that some pieces are running into each other during focusing.
If the focusing itself is gritty feeling, there may be debris in the focusing coils. For that, fully separate the two parts of the focusing mechanism. Be sure to mark where they fit together before doing this though or reassembly will be difficult. Carefully clean out all the coils and reapply a small amount of lubricant during reassembly.
If the focusing is sloppy or stiff on its own, you don't have to fully separate the focusing mechanism in many cases. Just focus out a bit and apply a small amount of lubricant to the coils. Again, you really don't need a lot though.
+Matt Bierner it worked thanks man! not sure what the problem exactly was tho
I must have another version of this lens, because it's exact the same specs but looks different on the inside. Now I have trouble assembling it back together again...Oh, well. There's something different with the focusing mechanism. There is a ring with inner and outer threads. I'll have to figure it out for myself I guess ;) cool vid's though!
Does the name ring read: Minolta MD 50mm f1.7? No Rokkor or anything? There were MD Rokkor-X versions of this lens too that are different internally.
+Matt Bierner It says MD Rokkor 50mm 1.7. But I fixed it! after fine-tuning it focuses to infinity again.
Good!!
Cant you just drop the whole unit, when you have it apart down to the diaphragm, in alcohol to clean the entire diaphragm at one time, instead of taking it apart?
thanks a lot for this ! ;-)
not being able to clean inside of the optics is a bit dissapointing, many of these lenses are now worthless because of this