I have never had trouble with surges but for £20 - 30 it's worth it. All it takes is only one instance & that's nearly £1,000 worth of hardware down the pan.
So no real benefits with line interactive other than AVR. If I have decent voltage stability then I should go with ECO then? I like the PRO version but I'm reading it has some fan noise.
@@adrianTNT I got ellipse eco 1200. It’s used for synology nas and router. It kicked in several times during summer and works as expected. Silent and reliable.
I have 4 UPSs in my home; one for my network equipment, one for my server and home alarm, one for the office, and one for my gaming rig. In addition to power backups, I also usually have three WANs going to my main router: hard-line, cellular hotspot via my phone on a carrier, cellular physical hotspot on a different carrier. When the power cuts, I will lose connectivity for a few seconds until the router changes to my phone hotspot, if available/I'm at home (otherwise the physical hotspot). If I'm playing a game, the countdown starts now: 1kW of juice for just about 15 minutes of runtime in a game. If I'm with friends or in a competitive match, I can jump back in in a few seconds after WAN 2 takes over, and finish the match instead of leaving my teammates to fend without me. It's totally overkill but it's nice to not even lose voice chat, just a hiccup and I'm back to talking with the group. And if I have to shutdown because that 15 minutes can go by fast, I'm not draining power from the network (also with 1kW, a couple hours), the office machine (don't remember the model, 1200W?), or the server (again, another 1kW ups). And all are sinewave instead of line interactive, because I wanted the best (within reason - these 1kW go for $210 or so on Amazon) for my data and hardware. Also, because I have fallback WANs + ups, should the power go out, the house is still protected via the alarm system and IoT things, even if nobody is home (WAN 3). So cameras, alarms and sensors, smoke alarms, etc can still notify us of occurances. An edge case, absolutely, but why not, ya know?
5 місяців тому
Haven't ever used a surge protector. Our electrical grid is so good, never needed it. Oh, and I'm young enough that I never followed my parents' (and older gens) maxim to pull all electrical cords when a thunderstorm happened. Never had anything break. Again, our grid is *really* good. But I am thinking of getting a UPS again. Our grid is good, but the installation in this apartment (I share it with two other guys) isn't, so there were some power cuts I didn't expect. Long ago I had a Powerware 5110, and I'm think of getting an Eaton Ellipse Eco, just not sure if I should "splurge" on a 1200 VA.
I have 2 UPSs. If you do get 1 understand that its not just pass through power and if your drawing more power than it can it will start beeping about the battery. The first 1 I had gotten would start beeping while playing Civ 6 cause my computer would start drawing more power. Which is why I have the 2nd 1 now which is fine cause all the networking stuff and NAS are on it while my computer is on the higher rated 1. Our apartment since moving in has had quite a few electrical problems including our internal breaker burning up, our external breaker burning up, another breaker burning up outside(not as bad as the first), so they definitely pay for themselves just with peace of mind.
It is and if you search the ups's technical data you can find the Ah rating of the 12V lead acid battery for replacement purposes but because of the DC/AC inverter and the different ways AC current and power is calculated UPS manufacturers use VA and/or power rating and provide a runtime rating or chart based on how much power one will use.
I had a problem with this specific UPS line (Eaton Ellipse Eco, but lower capacity): it doesn't work with 80+ Titanium power supply (Enermax) but it does with 80+ Gold (FSP) - specifically PC would turn off when switching from wall power to UPS and wouldn't turn back on. My best guess: square sinwave instead of full sinusoid. Upgrading to online UPS helped.
I have used UPS’s for years. The thing that keeps the voltage constant is called a voltage regulator. I live out in the midwest and we get a lot of thunder storms. I have even had lightning strikes at my house. The last one took out the hdmi ports on my ps4 and the ethernet port on my computer. So even while I had my computer hooked to a UPS, there was still a way for lightning to get through. One thing to add to this list is a generator. Many people dont have this, but it is a good thing to have for your home in case power goes out. I had a power failure recently where I could not work anymore remotely because I lost power. That Is why I bought a backup generator. Of course I still need a transfer switch installed at my house to hook it up as a power source.
Hey man, I need advice, basically I play on Xbox series x and want the best performance for competitive gaming, my monitor has dp 1.2 and hdmi 2.0, I was going to get a adapter so I can use the dp port on my monitor on my Xbox, do you know any good cables or adapter that have hdmi cable on one end and dp on the other so I can take advantage of this to max my competitive performance, thanks 🙏
DisplayPort has a better image quality in what I seen, but since Xbox only outputs HDMI, I would go with that in the monitor. An adapter can cause all kind of delays / interferance, etc.
Sorry, no, just no. Move from the place you currently live at. Oh, and it's 220, not 240. I used to have "issues" in the States, for some reason the UK and North America haven't figured out how electricity works. I haven't had one single surge or one power out in the last four years. Also, I lived thru the thick of the "AIDS Years" without ever using "protection" ;) Guess that explains the seven kids from three mothers, Cheers. PS: Engineering and British people just don't mix. As for North America, I blame the size of most states and the fact that they haven't invested in infrastructure since the Mayflower, they are just cheap.
Google says: "220/230/240 are the same thing, really. This is because it started off as 220V, but was raised incrementally over time to deal with increasing demands on the grid; right now, it's said to be 240V at the service entrance, but 230V at loads to account for voltage drops in building wiring"
I NEVER use protection.... But I do have a UPS on all of my PC's.. lmao
I have never had trouble with surges but for £20 - 30 it's worth it. All it takes is only one instance & that's nearly £1,000 worth of hardware down the pan.
the Eaton Ellipse ECO 1600 is around 300-350 EUR.
So no real benefits with line interactive other than AVR. If I have decent voltage stability then I should go with ECO then? I like the PRO version but I'm reading it has some fan noise.
Did you get one of the models in the end ? I am also curious if the Eaton Ellipse PRO is too noisy.
@@adrianTNT I got ellipse eco 1200. It’s used for synology nas and router. It kicked in several times during summer and works as expected. Silent and reliable.
It was about £1100 for a 512GB SSD to be recovered after a power cut... a UPS is pretty much a requirement.
Good to know that^. Kingston has some very afordable SSD / NVMEs with PLP (Power Loss Protection).
I have 4 UPSs in my home; one for my network equipment, one for my server and home alarm, one for the office, and one for my gaming rig. In addition to power backups, I also usually have three WANs going to my main router: hard-line, cellular hotspot via my phone on a carrier, cellular physical hotspot on a different carrier.
When the power cuts, I will lose connectivity for a few seconds until the router changes to my phone hotspot, if available/I'm at home (otherwise the physical hotspot). If I'm playing a game, the countdown starts now: 1kW of juice for just about 15 minutes of runtime in a game. If I'm with friends or in a competitive match, I can jump back in in a few seconds after WAN 2 takes over, and finish the match instead of leaving my teammates to fend without me.
It's totally overkill but it's nice to not even lose voice chat, just a hiccup and I'm back to talking with the group. And if I have to shutdown because that 15 minutes can go by fast, I'm not draining power from the network (also with 1kW, a couple hours), the office machine (don't remember the model, 1200W?), or the server (again, another 1kW ups). And all are sinewave instead of line interactive, because I wanted the best (within reason - these 1kW go for $210 or so on Amazon) for my data and hardware.
Also, because I have fallback WANs + ups, should the power go out, the house is still protected via the alarm system and IoT things, even if nobody is home (WAN 3). So cameras, alarms and sensors, smoke alarms, etc can still notify us of occurances. An edge case, absolutely, but why not, ya know?
Haven't ever used a surge protector. Our electrical grid is so good, never needed it. Oh, and I'm young enough that I never followed my parents' (and older gens) maxim to pull all electrical cords when a thunderstorm happened. Never had anything break. Again, our grid is *really* good.
But I am thinking of getting a UPS again. Our grid is good, but the installation in this apartment (I share it with two other guys) isn't, so there were some power cuts I didn't expect. Long ago I had a Powerware 5110, and I'm think of getting an Eaton Ellipse Eco, just not sure if I should "splurge" on a 1200 VA.
I have 2 UPSs. If you do get 1 understand that its not just pass through power and if your drawing more power than it can it will start beeping about the battery. The first 1 I had gotten would start beeping while playing Civ 6 cause my computer would start drawing more power. Which is why I have the 2nd 1 now which is fine cause all the networking stuff and NAS are on it while my computer is on the higher rated 1. Our apartment since moving in has had quite a few electrical problems including our internal breaker burning up, our external breaker burning up, another breaker burning up outside(not as bad as the first), so they definitely pay for themselves just with peace of mind.
Useful advice 👍
Forgot to say, my Xbox only has a hdmi cable if you don’t already know so that’s why I’m asking
A bit confused? Surely the runtime of any battery is determined by Amp Hours (Ah) not watts or volts?
It is and if you search the ups's technical data you can find the Ah rating of the 12V lead acid battery for replacement purposes but because of the DC/AC inverter and the different ways AC current and power is calculated UPS manufacturers use VA and/or power rating and provide a runtime rating or chart based on how much power one will use.
So much talking and he barely showed the unit 😂
I had a problem with this specific UPS line (Eaton Ellipse Eco, but lower capacity): it doesn't work with 80+ Titanium power supply (Enermax) but it does with 80+ Gold (FSP) - specifically PC would turn off when switching from wall power to UPS and wouldn't turn back on. My best guess: square sinwave instead of full sinusoid. Upgrading to online UPS helped.
Hi could I ask you if these UPSs are noisy at all? I ve heard that some UPSs produce a high pitch sound when plugged in.
@@IbizanHound2 I had two, and they weren't for me
@@qwpz So you couldnt operate them at all to see if the produce any noise?
@@IbizanHound2 I operated them for a long time before that, with a previous PSU and with routers, they didn't
@@qwpz Ah great! Thank you!
I have used UPS’s for years. The thing that keeps the voltage constant is called a voltage regulator. I live out in the midwest and we get a lot of thunder storms. I have even had lightning strikes at my house. The last one took out the hdmi ports on my ps4 and the ethernet port on my computer. So even while I had my computer hooked to a UPS, there was still a way for lightning to get through. One thing to add to this list is a generator. Many people dont have this, but it is a good thing to have for your home in case power goes out. I had a power failure recently where I could not work anymore remotely because I lost power. That Is why I bought a backup generator. Of course I still need a transfer switch installed at my house to hook it up as a power source.
What about the annoying buzz sound coming from any UPS ? is this not a factor to consider at all ?
Mine are all silent. I've never even heard of this.. Pun intended. 😂
Mine is silent as well so it's not something I can talk much about
@@thepointblank213 I just asking caz the old model UPS is not so silent.
This is an offline UPS. It only makes electrical noise when power is out. Line Interactive UPS has AVR, can do apparent electrical noise any time.
@@thepointblank213 maybe yours is too small if they are always silent, just saying 🤣
No worries Bro, I'll use protection with your sister.
👁️👃👁️🙏 ❤️
Hey man, I need advice, basically I play on Xbox series x and want the best performance for competitive gaming, my monitor has dp 1.2 and hdmi 2.0, I was going to get a adapter so I can use the dp port on my monitor on my Xbox, do you know any good cables or adapter that have hdmi cable on one end and dp on the other so I can take advantage of this to max my competitive performance, thanks 🙏
DisplayPort has a better image quality in what I seen, but since Xbox only outputs HDMI, I would go with that in the monitor. An adapter can cause all kind of delays / interferance, etc.
Sorry, no, just no.
Move from the place you currently live at. Oh, and it's 220, not 240. I used to have "issues" in the States, for some reason the UK and North America haven't figured out how electricity works. I haven't had one single surge or one power out in the last four years.
Also, I lived thru the thick of the "AIDS Years" without ever using "protection" ;)
Guess that explains the seven kids from three mothers,
Cheers.
PS: Engineering and British people just don't mix. As for North America, I blame the size of most states and the fact that they haven't invested in infrastructure since the Mayflower, they are just cheap.
Google says: "220/230/240 are the same thing, really. This is because it started off as 220V, but was raised incrementally over time to deal with increasing demands on the grid; right now, it's said to be 240V at the service entrance, but 230V at loads to account for voltage drops in building wiring"