Thanks for showing this! I grabbed a Sanyo TV you sent me on Marketplace. It’s in storage but I’ll have to go check the model number. I also have that U5000 chassis you sent over. It’s on that other tube I bought that was just too dim. Im thinking I can try that Sanyo tube with the U5000 and hope it will be a brighter picture. I’ve been trying to find someone locally to rejuvenate some tubes. No local TV shops even work on CRTs anymore!
I have done this to k7400’s and I found a bunch of Philips Magnavox 25 in tv’s, I took everything off and used the yoke and convergence rings from the original tube that was bad, I ended up with monitors that looked brand new every time.
Fantastic result for both, thank you for sharing the process. A bit isolated down here at the bottom of the planet, so unless I learn this stuff nothing is going to get fixed down here :)
I love it when a plan comes together! I have always said, a television set is really just an arcade monitor waiting to get out! Very nice!!!! Thank for video Mike!
This is a great video.. love to see more tube swaps with someone who knows their knowledge.. for example uk is full of Hantys Polos.. also the smaller sizes like 21inch
Before watching your video i was very hesitant because of all the "forum experts" saying "nonono, you can't do that"...Now i just bought for 50 euros a 25" Panasonic and a 19-20" Phillips 😄 I still don't know if they are swappable, but i immediately fell in love with the picture quality. MVS Metal Slug looks 10 times better than on my arcade display. It's perfect, even through the tv chassis. Even if the tubes are unswappable, i will keep the tvs and play on them directly.
20:58 One possibility that the value is smaller may be that the winding has a thicker wire than the "original". But it may be doing the exact same job because the inductance is what counts. You should compare using an inductance meter.
Awesome Mike!! Would love to see more of these. (noob question) IF those H.O.T.'s were getting hot from being overdriven, could you find/use/install different "value" ones?
Great vid as always Mike, thanks for posting my friend! If a yoke reading isn't quite what you would like to see is there any way to wire a resistor or something into it and bring it into a more tolerable range? You're no idiot at all and I am sure have thought of it too. Just curious for myself, this is a whole new world to me, I feel I grasp what's going on but ofc being a true nerd I wanna just learn more and more about it. Appreciate your work as always buddy, thanks!! :)
It’s not a resistance issue, it’s an inductance issue. You can do what you suggest, but the inductance also needs to be in range. I don’t really ever mention that because it’s more crucial when it comes to medium res yokes, but it’s still important on the standard res yokes.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Gotcha! Appreciate the time and response. This is all fascinating to me but I'm still an idiot lol, I do get what you're saying tho ofc, I wasn't thinking inductance at all. Appreciate your time, work and sharing the knowledge with us all Mike! Maybe one of these days I'll learn what's truly going on lol. CRT is a dying breed so ofc it interests me and I'd love to get into repairs some day, most of it clicks in this feeble mind lol. Appreciate ya Mike, thank you once again! :)
I have though about this for a while. Thought this would be a good place to ask. Some yoke have a resistor attached up where the yoke wires tie in. what would be preventing the use of lower, higher or adding a resistor in so compensate for the yoke not being the right values off the bat? Also is it worth rewinding a Yoke? other then the fact that a yoke "swap" can be a pain in the arse.
Curious why any tube swap I've done (and it looks like that Panasonic does too) always seem to have a slight curl in the upper left hand corner (would be far more noticeable on the white pattern board in test mode). Other than that it looks better than almost any swap I've done right from the jump!
@mikesamateurarcademonitorr6856 no, it's not a chassis issue. If you look at the crosshatch, in the upper left hand corner, you can see how the patten kind of pulls to the left. It's very slight, and I'm just being super anal about it but it's just weird how it always seems to be there.
This is the most valuable arcade tip I got when I started collecting, you no longer fear pickups with no tube you welcome them.
Was I the only one who did a fist pump when he said “we’re using a MK1 board”? Just me?
Thanks for showing this! I grabbed a Sanyo TV you sent me on Marketplace. It’s in storage but I’ll have to go check the model number. I also have that U5000 chassis you sent over. It’s on that other tube I bought that was just too dim. Im thinking I can try that Sanyo tube with the U5000 and hope it will be a brighter picture. I’ve been trying to find someone locally to rejuvenate some tubes. No local TV shops even work on CRTs anymore!
I have done this to k7400’s and I found a bunch of Philips Magnavox 25 in tv’s, I took everything off and used the yoke and convergence rings from the original tube that was bad, I ended up with monitors that looked brand new every time.
Fantastic result for both, thank you for sharing the process. A bit isolated down here at the bottom of the planet, so unless I learn this stuff nothing is going to get fixed down here :)
I love it when a plan comes together! I have always said, a television set is really just an arcade monitor waiting to get out! Very nice!!!! Thank for video Mike!
This is a great video.. love to see more tube swaps with someone who knows their knowledge.. for example uk is full of Hantys Polos.. also the smaller sizes like 21inch
Great to see as usual. Been looking to do something similar for 19" T.V.s
Before watching your video i was very hesitant because of all the "forum experts" saying "nonono, you can't do that"...Now i just bought for 50 euros a 25" Panasonic and a 19-20" Phillips 😄 I still don't know if they are swappable, but i immediately fell in love with the picture quality. MVS Metal Slug looks 10 times better than on my arcade display. It's perfect, even through the tv chassis. Even if the tubes are unswappable, i will keep the tvs and play on them directly.
Great stuff, glad they worked for you and thanks for sharing!
Smeggin awesome score & documentation sir !
Great video Mike. Thanks for doing this. It's really helpful.
Glorious! Well done thanks for sharing 🥂
I thought you had a couple 16:9 sets from the video thumbnail. Great vid as always
Yeah. Have to stretch the image for the thumbnail. That’s why it’s the amateur channel ;)
What an amazing find
20:58 One possibility that the value is smaller may be that the winding has a thicker wire than the "original". But it may be doing the exact same job because the inductance is what counts. You should compare using an inductance meter.
Yes, I know. But in my experience, inductance is much more crucial when it comes to the medium res monitors.
Awesome Mike!! Would love to see more of these.
(noob question) IF those H.O.T.'s were getting hot from being overdriven, could you find/use/install different "value" ones?
Possibly. FJL6920 is about the best out there now.
Every video is just good.
Great vid as always Mike, thanks for posting my friend! If a yoke reading isn't quite what you would like to see is there any way to wire a resistor or something into it and bring it into a more tolerable range? You're no idiot at all and I am sure have thought of it too. Just curious for myself, this is a whole new world to me, I feel I grasp what's going on but ofc being a true nerd I wanna just learn more and more about it. Appreciate your work as always buddy, thanks!! :)
It’s not a resistance issue, it’s an inductance issue. You can do what you suggest, but the inductance also needs to be in range. I don’t really ever mention that because it’s more crucial when it comes to medium res yokes, but it’s still important on the standard res yokes.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Gotcha! Appreciate the time and response. This is all fascinating to me but I'm still an idiot lol, I do get what you're saying tho ofc, I wasn't thinking inductance at all. Appreciate your time, work and sharing the knowledge with us all Mike! Maybe one of these days I'll learn what's truly going on lol. CRT is a dying breed so ofc it interests me and I'd love to get into repairs some day, most of it clicks in this feeble mind lol. Appreciate ya Mike, thank you once again! :)
Hey Mike...do you repair chassis for the general public? I've got a few that are beyond my very limited "expertise"
This will come in handy. I've got a 7000 that will need a new crt as it has been rejuvinated already. In my experience you only get to do that once.
True.
I have though about this for a while. Thought this would be a good place to ask. Some yoke have a resistor attached up where the yoke wires tie in. what would be preventing the use of lower, higher or adding a resistor in so compensate for the yoke not being the right values off the bat? Also is it worth rewinding a Yoke? other then the fact that a yoke "swap" can be a pain in the arse.
Curious why any tube swap I've done (and it looks like that Panasonic does too) always seem to have a slight curl in the upper left hand corner (would be far more noticeable on the white pattern board in test mode). Other than that it looks better than almost any swap I've done right from the jump!
Not sure. That’s odd. Can’t say I’ve ever encountered that before. H.Hold adjustment doesn’t fix it?
@mikesamateurarcademonitorr6856 no, it's not a chassis issue. If you look at the crosshatch, in the upper left hand corner, you can see how the patten kind of pulls to the left. It's very slight, and I'm just being super anal about it but it's just weird how it always seems to be there.
Oh man you lucky bugger!!! That was a score
Lol.
do you happen to know the name / model of the yolk connector, if we need to buy them thanks
Sure…
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/connectors-sockets-pins/miscellaneous-monitor-connnectors/8mm-x-6mm-spacing-connectors/4-pin-plug-housing-2-36mm-cp1003/
Thank you so much!@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair You are one of youtube's greatest gems!
😎
Is the tube it self always compatible if the neck board fits the tube?
Generally speaking, yes. Never seen any commercial TV from the mid-80s and up that wasn’t CR23 or CR31.
Lol 25:25😂😂😂
They are 100% room temperature. They are below body temperature. Lol