How To Drill Better Holes In Metal
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- Опубліковано 10 кві 2024
- In this video I'll share some of my favorite tricks for drilling better holes in steel.
This video is sponsored By Sunday Lawncare. Visit www.getsunday.com/MAKEEVERYTHING and use code MAKE25 to save 25% off your first custom lawn care plan.
Links to the tools I used are below, as an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases:
Pferd Drill Set - amzn.to/43WUVhK
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Aircraft Micrstop Counter Sink - amzn.to/4auiv7J
Single Flute Regular Countersink Set - amzn.to/3vDHyq1
High Quality Deburring Tool - amzn.to/4cT8Hpt
Self Adjusting Clamp - amzn.to/3xEIQBq
Universal Center Punch - amzn.to/43ROr3v
Transfer Punch Set - amzn.to/3VTuYgK
Optical Center Punch - amzn.to/43TgzTW
Fein VersaMag - Magnetic Base Vise - amzn.to/44bkyLT
Affordable Table Top Drill Press - amzn.to/4aBBqOg
Socket Tap Holders - amzn.to/3PZyy5d
Irwin Quick Grip - amzn.to/3PZWxkW
1-2-3- Blocks - amzn.to/3TWDhpu
Carbide Hole Saws - amzn.to/3vPYw4q
Annular Cutters - amzn.to/49xbnpN
Check out the Lincoln Electric Power Mig 140MP, great for the home shop, Mig, TIG, and Stick in 1 machine!
→ bit.ly/MakeEverything140
→ Lincoln 215MPI Welder: lered.info/215MPi_Zeppieri
→ Mig Welding Pliers - amzn.to/3VQ8KtR
→ Welding Hood - amzn.to/3yVMox9
Thank you to Pferd abrasives for supporting my shop and my channel. For links to some of the grinding discs I use most see below:
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→ Inside corner disc (AMAZING):
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→ Wire Wheel:
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Thanks for watching! Be careful, know the limits of your skills and your tools! Don't try this stuff at home!
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Below are some links to tools I use in the shop on a daily basis.
Starbond CA Glue:
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
→ Bosch Miter Saw ( My Favorite miter saw)
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→ Sawstop Table Saw:
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→ Wen Tabletop Metalcutting Bandsaw
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→ Articulated Vise:
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→ Bosch Portable Bandsaw ( 18V)
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→ Porter Cable Restorer:
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→ Lincoln 120V Welder ( good for a home shop)
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→ The Camera I use:
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This guy clearly doesn't watch enough Pakistani Truck videos. They'll teach you how to drill holes. The ole wrap a chain around something then use a sleeper for secondary leverage trick.
This was a really good hole cutting documentary. I learned about a lot of useful tools too. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. For rookies like me who never had the opportunity to enroll in shop classes or learn by other means, these techniques and resources are very helpful.
Good video. I appreciate seeing tools that I wasn't aware existed. In particular the adjustable countersink tool. Thanks.
Some new tips. Thanks.
My float lock vise is my go to for the drill press.
Great video and tips, thank you!
Try some LPS 40320 Tapmatic #1 Gold Cutting Fluid sometime. As long as they haven't changed the formula this stuff works a lot better than Tapmagic. It works for drilling, cutting, and tapping. You can really tell the difference when tapping small holes.
Outstanding valuable video Chris. I really appreciate the work you put into this and other videos, and the clear, concise narratives of your videos.
Awesome video man, I learn about so many tools I never knew existed when I watch your content. Thank you!
That was a great video for novice & veteran metalworkers. I saw many things I knew, but forgot or was foggy on & some new tools (adj. depth countersink)! I'm checking out your playlist for precise, guided drill grinding (sharpening). If you do that subject as well as this vid., it would be awesome. I bought cobalt bits for working with cast stainless steel exh manifolds. I worked in an auto engine research place & had to instrument the manifolds with multiple temp & pressure fittings. Even then I kept my cheapie 350X Drill Dr. busy every 3 or 4 holes, resharpening/touching up to speed up the work & reduce frustration. I wish I would have paid more for the 750X Drill Dr., for more adjustments, features & split point grinding. Split points practically eliminate the need for drilling a pilot hole first, (faster job completion)! Cheers, Paul from S. Central Tx..
That corner sink bit! Is something I could use! In my shop! I didn’t even know those existed 😂 I’ll definitely get one for my shop!
It'd be better if you knew what it was really called if you're looking for one. It's a countersink bit. As opposed to a counterboring bit. They're a thing too. I don't know about no sinks in corners. If you don't have a countersink bit you can just drill a little with a really big bit to make the countersink then go back with a little bit and drill through. If you try it the other way it can go horribly wrong. Having an actual countersink bit then you can countersink last and it works OK. What goes wrong little then big is sometimes the big bit will feed too much with a pilot hole to follow. Then you end up with a big hole. That's no bueno.
🎉 yay power taping, I’ve been eagerly looking waiting for you to share this info. Thanks for a comprehensive video on drilling on metal. Im saving this video for reference. 5 stars 😊 on this video.
I use the 123 blocks all over the place, there are 4 next to the cnc machine and 2 next to the drill press all the time . They are very square and flat and hard, plus have enough weight to hold some things in place. I finally bought cobolt bits about a year ago and it has been the best investment for drilling metal. Spend the money and get cobolt, yes it is expensive but they last a long time and cut metal like butter. The depth device for the champher is new to me.
Cobalt bits are only really useful if you drill tougher alloy steel. For plain mild steel M2 is just fine. The best investment for drilling metal is learning how to do it. Learn how to sharpen bits and calculate the right speed to run. Those are the two things knuckleheads don't know how to do.
You should cover the use of T Slot clamps for the drill press table. Also the fly cutter for the larger holes instead of the hole saws. Excellent video.
i like your videos man, keep doing your great job
OTOH, don't think that all I do all day is write criticisms of UA-cam videos. I actually like the part about layout and like the universal center punch idea so much that I bought a set! Thanks for the heads up.
Great points/advice. I learned the hard way not to clamp down a drill press vice and it must have been off kilter or something but when it broke through it wound the press right up into the chuck. Surprised the heck out of me!! Fortunately, no damage was done, and I didn't get whacked by the spinning clamp. Still not sure to this day why it happened 'cause everything is square and plumb and the bit that I used is not bent or anything. The press has worked great ever since as well...
Moments like that, you really appreciate having a footswitch for your drill press.
Great information thank you
Thnx Chris, great shop tips n lessons! 💯🗽🇺🇸
good video Zep, i´ve put some new tools on my wishlist LOL
That’s what I’m here for! Rather be looking at em then looking for em
Great video!!
A very good Hole drilling video.
as a vertical drill jig, instead of using the 123 blocks, I drill a vertical/square hole, of the required size, through a small block of steel on the drill press and then use this small block for drilling or tapping a hole perpendicular into what ever I need.
I always keep a set of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch handy to get those freehand holes perpendicular.
Use a sharp drill at the right speed with coolant and where possible use a bench or pillar drill simple
Good tips video. I have used a few of these myself.
In addition to the wood clamp, I have also used a large caulking gun to help push a drill through steel. The advantage of the caulking gun is that it has a gap that the drill bit can pass between
The disadvantage is the throat depth. For that I use a Strong Arm 5. It is a bit pricey and awkward to use, but it fantastic for putting holes in where it would be almost impossible to apply force to the drill by hand. It is worthwhile to buy a good quality deburring tool. I had so many of the cheap chinese ones break on me. They are not worth it.
For getting vertical alignment I use a V-block. That is much easier to use than fiddling around with two 123 blocks.
Welp, i learned a pretty cool trick. The trigger clamp/drill press method is "cavemam deluxe" AND genius at the same time. I love it!
Best idea I've seen in a long time. Knowing how to do this would have made some drilling I did recently much easier. I hope to never forget it.
My Diablo wholesale kit is an exceptional kit and cuts a lot better than your whole saw you said was made for those panels. The Diablo’s cut clean and cut fast.
Check out the Gator drill and taps guides. They are great for making perpendicular holes in both flat and round stock. Also check out adjustable expanding center punches - they work with odd hole sizes and when transferring from thinner materials.
Hey Chris, What brand of taps are those?
A good tip when drilling metal is to use a magnet(s) to collect the swarf cuttings. I have several types but mostly use one like a doughnut so can drill down through the centre
Sir,
The aircraft cutter is new to me.
If setting the depth from a previous hole, can one get consistent, accurate results setting depth by drilling a test hole in wood?
Easier on the tool, easier on the bit?
You didn’t cover making a body harness for the drill press for making horizontal holes on the go?
what countersink bits work with that microstop? Can't find that info with the links you posted.
any link for 82 degree counter syncs ?
I've had nothing but frustration trying to use those cheap TCT hole saws. Just use a regular bi-metal holesaw. They hold up better.
What do you mean by Cobalt is longer lasting the Carbide? At least in edge retention, that should not be true. I'm assuming that depends on how well you take care of your carbide.
How much force should be applied to metal cutting drills, per size?
the Aircraft Micrstop Counter Sink you link to doesn't include any countersink attachments
this video made me feel better about purchasing the m12 fuel hammer drill for my first drill instead of the m18
I love the m12 stuff and use it far more than the 18v drills and impacts I have
Chamfering / deburring tools are designed to be used in one direction ONLY, normally, in a clock-wise direction.
You should have a continuous spiral not metal chips.
Sadly looks like the handle of that nice deburring tool changed to something worse/cheaper.
As far as strings/rope or belts, the loose clothes are extremely dangerous in certain environments..... not as bad w/ smaller
drills & stuff but the mid size & bigger stuff can/will chew you up. I have a friend who get eaten up by a cotton gin which got
one arm & he tried to get that out but wound up w/ both arms in the Gin; he tried to kick the shutoff w/ his feet but hung until
someone else turned off the machine..... be careful the clothes you wear in/and around any shop. peace out
No question about it. Treat ALL machinery and power tools like they want to kill you, ,,,,, because they do.
I've done so many stupid things w/ small power tools but these "Grinders" & tools like them w/ cutting wheels
that break are pretty bad & hardly anyone wears safety glasses? More now than when I was young but still a lot
don't & we use tools to do stuff it wasn't made to do. The bigger stuff at factories has some safety built into it
but that's where my friend got pulled in. Took all the mean from his arm bones & over 20 surgeries taking the
muscles from different parts of his his but he did keep his arms - they were gross & didn't work right but he
at least had a life. But the mid-sized stuff is what I see the most dangerous today.... we can now get high
power table tools & we wear the loose clothes w/o thinking about it. Be wise is the lesson for me too !!
Never figured out how those long haired pony tailed oil drillers stayed out of the rotary table
I'm betting that few did not & their careers were "drilled" short ?? Hope I'm wrong but I've seen what
can happen in a cotten-gin. Gotta be careful, no doubt. peace
40 mins lol
Please don`t drill directly onto your very nice fabrication table ! = (
I went through one of the fixture holes! I promise I didn’t harm the table
@@MakeEverything I could tell. Still bad practice though, especially when you are fortunate enough to have such a precious thing. I find old Ikea cutting boards have a multitude of uses around the shop = )
Yea I said the same thing. I use 4x4 post scraps to drill on, they are large enough to stay still and have flat faces and provide more than ample depth to prevent hitting the table.
You had me up until the clamp. man wtf
What’s wrong with my clamp?
@@MakeEverything lol nothing. It's a fine clamp! I have several just like it (maybe not as nice).
I've just never seen that done before, is all. And, like, if I found myself stuck in a situation where I had to come up with that as the answer, or else, I'd probably be a goner.
Nn the safety thing you forgot the most dangerous thing of allI see on UA-cam.
NO GLOVES AROUND ROTATING EQUIPMENT. Loose the gloves or loose a finger!
And don't fall for the "ripaway" BS. - It takes like zero milliseconds for those gloves to pull you into the drill. And zero force to move your hand to move that few thousandths that gets the drill a hold on you. The only safe place for gloves when you are working around rotating machinery is in a drawer. (I don't even like the long sleeves ! )
One more thing. If you got one of those strings tangled up in the drill press the only thing that would rip is the skin on your face. The cloth would stall the machine before it would fail and that could easily turn into a FATAL accident.
Gloves, Long Sleeves, rags, long hair and anything else that can be wrapped around a shaft like watch bands, gold chains,,,,and even rings including the rubber ones should be kept completely away form anything that rotates. Leave the gloves and rings to the Bob Villas.
Well that was A really STUPID lead in to a drilling holes video.
😵👎
😘👍🏻
Would you know were i can buy a bench top drill press thats wouldnt have any run out in it the biggest drill i use. is a 1/4 inch ,,,,any suggestions would be very helpfull,,,,,thank you Ken
You can get something like a little Camron for something over 2 grand at Penn Tool , Just remember,,,,,There is no such thing as no run out at all but Camron specs theirs out a .0002" total run out. - Standard full size industrial drill presses are considered in spec if they run out at .003" or less.