It's a surprisingly useful little calculator. I'm sure it's totally capable as a standard calculator too, but I pretty much use it exclusively in Hexadecimal mode!
My first job out of tech school in 1973 was working at Texas Inst ( TI ) in Dallas at the Central Expressway site in the South building. T.I. hired me in Clearwater, FLA and paid for me to move to Dallas with a starting pay of $3.75 per hour. The T.I. South building's F.E.P. -2 was building the chips for the TI-2500, SR-10 and other early 1973 calculators. At the time a 2 inch Front End was a big deal. A couple years later T.I. removed the batteries from the calculator be of the cost of the battery being the most costly item. Because the calculator was now to lite without the batteries they put a steel plate inside the case so the customer would feel the value of the calculator.
I think that qualifies as “upcycling”; great to see gear saved from the landfill. I started with a TI-82, but can’t say I was a fan of the hard, bounce-prone, TI keys. Once I could afford an HP-15C I never looked back.
Thanks! And yeah, TI had some excellent calculators that were all plagues with fairly cheap, bounce-prone keypads. The TI SR-20 desktop machine I have is a prime example. It looks brilliant, has a wonderful display, and a terrible keypad. I would love to get my hands on some early HP calculators one of these days. Obviously, the HP-9100 CRT desktop calculator is a dream machine, but I would also love an HP-35 or HP-45. Unfortunately, vintage HP stuff has really jumped in value lately. Someday though!
Oh how I hated those tiny red LED's! The somewhat larger, green VFD, found on some other brand calculators, was much easier to use and read. You reminded me that I still have a Sinclair calculator somewhere with its red LED's. That little thing had a curious foible; if you divided the correct number by zero it would count upwards in seconds. An unplanned, but for once, a useful error message!
I bought an HP 16C when (almost Eons ago) I was somewhat superficially involved with a computerized controller design. Used for double checking the controller calculations. I still have it, although it is "retired". Well, my phone has an HP 16C emulation application, so that does pretty much everything what I might possibly need.
The HP-16C is super cool and I would love to get my hands on one someday, but they are certainly not cheap anymore for sure. I also have a couple of calculator apps on my phone, but I find myself using me old TI-2500 Datamath more than anything else. The tactile feedback of a genuine keypad is so much more welcome than a smartphone screen. Having said that, I would absolutely love to get my hands on an old HP-35 or HP-45 for a daily driver calculator.
My dad had one of those calculators. While I am an electronics hobbyist myself, I have to admit that as a bunny dad I love seeing you pet bunny. He/she's so cute.
I can still remember when I was starting secondary school, and all the shops were giving those TI calculators away for £0.99 (while a good CASIO was still over £10.00). It became a mark of social standing amongst the first years, with the "poor" kids all having TI, while the "well to do" kids had CASIO (with the green luminescent display). Even today, I can't even bear the thought of being seen with one of those things.
I don't see anyone else saying this so, late to the party though I am, I thought I might as well chime in with some info. Lithium-based rechargeables have a varying terminal voltage which gives a fairly accurate indication of the state of charge of the cell. Depending on the exact chemistry used, the maximum terminal voltage can be 4.2V while the minimum can be under 3.0V. Charging one of these requires both voltage and current limiting, which is what the circuit you added does. Firstly, the current is limited to around half the "C" of the battery (so for an 800mAh battery, around 400mA charge current) since charging at too fast a rate will damage the cell. Secondly, once the voltage rises to the maximum permitted for the particular chemistry being used, it is capped at that voltage and the current is allowed to drop until it reaches about 1/10th of the starting current, at which point charging is stopped. Different battery chemistry will slightly alter the voltages. Some batteries need to be charged to 4.1V per cell instead of 4.2V per cell and some can tolerate being discharged down to 2.5V while others need the discharge to stop around 3.0V. Getting the correct circuit for the type of battery you're going to use is essential if you want the maximum life out of your battery. The circuit you chose is designed to work with Li-Po cells and was designed to fit, along with a Li-Po, inside the case of a 9V battery so that you can have what appears to be a rechargeable 9V battery except that it is charged using 5V through a separate connector in the battery case.
Similar TI calculator, and also dead cells. Simply used a 3V6 1W zener diode, and a surplus 6V wall wart, with a 1W dropper resistor to give a 3V6 rail to replace the old crusty deader than a doornail N type NiCd cells in it. Only problem is a bit of keyboard bounce, but for a calculator that I got for $1 it was worth it. Has been the workshop calculator for many years, simply left on most of the time, though i did rewire the power switch to short the zener to turn it off, relying on the wall wart poor regulation to drop the dissipation down, though not the most efficient method. Did slap a 68uF 16V blue tantalum bead across the zener, because that was the first capacitor I found when looking in the bag of surplus parts.
These old TI calculators are surprisingly hardy little things! Though the TI programmer does also have quite a bit of keypad bounce. My TI-2500 on the other hand isn't nearly as bad and the keypad definitely feels higher quality. TI was pretty keen on keeping their calculators as affordable as possible it seems. That's a nice solution for making the calculator a wired solution! Simple and clean and the calculator should run pretty much forever!
Ooh, the HP 67 is a very cool calculator! HP used a weird battery pack setup, and it seems they're packs produced 3.7V, so interestingly, a LiPo produces just about the perfect amount. In which case you'd just need a LiPo charger module to make life easy for charging. Though, LiPos do tend to sit a little high it seems at around 4.1V, so I'm not sure how sensitive the HP calculator is to slightly higher voltages, that would need to be looked into before doing too much. And that's crazy you're from Austin! I'm just a few hours north of Austin , it's a small world!
The LEDs are absolutely minuscule! I was a little surprised actually when comparing it to the TI-2500 next to it. The TI Programmer LEDs are about half the size and they use a little domed lens to magnify the digits. The unfortunate side effect of that is they have a much stricter viewing angle than the TI-2500. Still, I'm really happy with both of my little TI calculators!
You should trim the wires so there is not a lot bare conductor floating around waiting to cause a short circuit. The insulation should be right up and close to our joint. Still nice to see an old hp working again.
Thank you! Everything is fairly securely mounted, so I'm not too worried about shorts. Also, the leads that are a little too long are just for the charging port, so 99% of the time, there's no power on those wires at all.
The resistor attached to the TP4056 IC's pin 2 is Rprog used to set the charge rate. Your module is probably set to the maximum 1000mA. A maximum charge rate of 1C is recommended for generic lipos: Rprog Value - Charging Current 10K Ohms - 130mA 5K Ohms - 250mA 4K Ohms - 300mA 3K Ohms - 400mA 2K Ohms - 580mA 1.66K Ohms - 690mA 1.5K Ohms - 780mA 1.33K Ohms - 900mA 1.2K Ohms - 1000mA
Very good eye! I just checked the board and it does indeed have a "122" SMD resistor, which I believe is 1.2k and should give a maximum of 1,000mA. The LiPo I'm using is a 500mAh battery, which gives a charge rate of 2C? In the future I may have to knock that resistor down to about a 2.2k ohm or so. Thank you for the insight!
As always. I have to say,. Great montage music!. You have a gift in the pairing of montage music with the montage .. scenes? This video was really inspiring. Because you installed the LIPO battery and converter/charge board. but into the existing battery pack. So it feels more "authentic" or original to the design of the calculator. Not that I use batteries in guitar pedals any more. Mostly a power supply you plug in. But I feel the inspiration from your video to attempt to convert a guitar pedal to use lipo battery plus boost converter mod like this. so when the pedal is plugged into the pedal board it will function off the external power supply and charge the lipo.. but if i pull the pedlal off for heading out to a remote gig., then i can just grab the pedal and go, and not have to worry about the usual "has it been 3 gigs or 4 gigs since i replaced the 9V battery in this, and should I replace it before I head out.".. Really not being an "eco terrorist" and not needing to rely on disposable one time use batteries, is a huge virtue for me. Thank you for the great video!
Thank you so much! I quite like the elevator like feeling that the music in this montage gives, haha. That's actually a really brilliant use for a LiPO! I'm surprised more guitar pedals don't do that, it seems like the perfect logical next step. More life and less chance for you get to a gig and have the pedal be dead.
If it's portable and needs charging, throw a LiPo at it! Though, I don't think there's enough small LiPos in stock anywhere to power the tube computer, I'll have to stick with wall power for that beast, haha.
I had one of those. Received it with the batteries also toast. Got rid of the bits and just left the bottom cover and used it with alkaline 9V batteries. Very unflattering key action though.
Yeah, it really seems that the number one thing that fails on these old calculators are the batteries! I agree with you though that the keypad is not the best. My TI-2500 has a much better keypad, so I end up using it 90% of the time, but it's nice to have the hex/oct capability on the occasion!
Cant say I havent done something similar, maybe even twice... ...in the same place in try 1 and 2 of one of my projects ! hahaha but the difference between us is skill level, im over here trying to figure out how to build a simple SE amplifier and you at the same time are making a vacuum tube computer, Still the main thing is that it works !
Thank you! And thank you for the kind words, though I don't really think I have all that much skill, I'm just painfully stubborn, even after realizing that I totally dremeled off an important piece of plastic on accident, haha.
Thank you! That would have been the easy solution, but I really wanted to use the same 5V wall-wart that I use for my TI-2500. Sometimes, self-imposed restrictions mean a ton more work, haha.
Just put 2 new NiCds in mine (so I could use it on Halloween as programmer-nerd). I have two of these TI Programmers, but only one with the "boost circuit".
Hi there ... great mod! My mother got me a Ti59 when I got into university way, way, way back. I would like to resusrect that device if I could. Do you have a link for the charging circuit?
I added a cell phone battery to my TI-59. Just solder some wires from the battery directly to the tabs inside the calculator. The battery has a BMW built-in and works with the original AC 5.7VAC charger. You get several hours of run time.
I think if you make a video to explain how the board works, I mean all chips rams roms ect... And the internal power supply, it will be so educatif, thanks
Interestingly, most TI calculators use a single chip design. The TI Programmer shown here uses a single TMC0983 chip and nothing else. The chip itself is really fascinating though, and that family of chips is often considered the first ever microcontroller. It stuffs a 4-bit processor, a mask ROM and RAM all into a single package. It was also the family of chips that really let TI absolutely dominate the handheld calculator market for so long!
These particular ones are "AITRIP Boost Chargers", though I don't know if there's a specific part number for the board. They do make use of the TP4056 charge IC though. I was a little skeptical at first, but I'm quite happy with how they work!
Thank you! Honestly, I know it charges from empty to full in under an hour, so whenever it gets low, I'll just plug it in for 20 minutes or so and itl'l be good for probably another month!
Interestingly, neither my TI-2500 or the TI-Programmer can do square root operations, so it's certainly something that's quite difficult. There are some ways it can be done in binary using some clever calculating with algorithms that are way over my head, but it seems the simplest way to handle it is to just have a lookup table stored in a ROM somewhere. No calculation is actually done, it just receives some parameters, then looks up what the answer is and displays that. Certainly not the sexiest solution, but gets the job done!
Bought this version back in the late 1970’s. It was indispensable when working on large core dumps. Still have it somewhere.
It's a surprisingly useful little calculator. I'm sure it's totally capable as a standard calculator too, but I pretty much use it exclusively in Hexadecimal mode!
3.7V is the nominal voltage. Fully charged it will be 4.2V. Around 3.0V is lower cutoff.
I had one of these in 1979 when I was a systems programmer for ICL. What nostalgia! I have to find one again. Thank you so much.
My first job out of tech school in 1973 was working at Texas Inst ( TI ) in Dallas at the Central Expressway site in the South building. T.I. hired me in Clearwater, FLA and paid for me to move to Dallas with a starting pay of $3.75 per hour. The T.I. South building's F.E.P. -2 was building the chips for the TI-2500, SR-10 and other early 1973 calculators. At the time a 2 inch Front End was a big deal. A couple years later T.I. removed the batteries from the calculator be of the cost of the battery being the most costly item. Because the calculator was now to lite without the batteries they put a steel plate inside the case so the customer would feel the value of the calculator.
I think that qualifies as “upcycling”; great to see gear saved from the landfill. I started with a TI-82, but can’t say I was a fan of the hard, bounce-prone, TI keys. Once I could afford an HP-15C I never looked back.
Thanks!
And yeah, TI had some excellent calculators that were all plagues with fairly cheap, bounce-prone keypads. The TI SR-20 desktop machine I have is a prime example. It looks brilliant, has a wonderful display, and a terrible keypad. I would love to get my hands on some early HP calculators one of these days. Obviously, the HP-9100 CRT desktop calculator is a dream machine, but I would also love an HP-35 or HP-45. Unfortunately, vintage HP stuff has really jumped in value lately. Someday though!
Oh how I hated those tiny red LED's! The somewhat larger, green VFD, found on some other brand calculators, was much easier to use and read.
You reminded me that I still have a Sinclair calculator somewhere with its red LED's. That little thing had a curious foible; if you divided the correct number by zero it would count upwards in seconds. An unplanned, but for once, a useful error message!
lipo is fully chaged at 4.1 - 4.2v. just sayin'. nice idea.
Oh nice, I didn't know that, thank you!
Great video and I love that you managed to make it rechargeable and LiPo as well!
Thank you so much! I really wanted to be able to charge it with the same wall-wart that I use for my TI-2500!
Very cool project, thanks for sharing, learned a lot!
I bought an HP 16C when (almost Eons ago) I was somewhat superficially involved with a computerized controller design. Used for double checking the controller calculations. I still have it, although it is "retired". Well, my phone has an HP 16C emulation application, so that does pretty much everything what I might possibly need.
The HP-16C is super cool and I would love to get my hands on one someday, but they are certainly not cheap anymore for sure. I also have a couple of calculator apps on my phone, but I find myself using me old TI-2500 Datamath more than anything else. The tactile feedback of a genuine keypad is so much more welcome than a smartphone screen.
Having said that, I would absolutely love to get my hands on an old HP-35 or HP-45 for a daily driver calculator.
My dad had one of those calculators. While I am an electronics hobbyist myself, I have to admit that as a bunny dad I love seeing you pet bunny. He/she's so cute.
I can still remember when I was starting secondary school, and all the shops were giving those TI calculators away for £0.99 (while a good CASIO was still over £10.00). It became a mark of social standing amongst the first years, with the "poor" kids all having TI, while the "well to do" kids had CASIO (with the green luminescent display). Even today, I can't even bear the thought of being seen with one of those things.
I have 2 of the "sisters" of that calculator and I just use 9v batteries. I want one of these programmers now.
I was not expecting the Costa Del Sol music from FF7 hehehehe
Very interesting. Will keep this in mind should I get an opportunity like this!
Thank you!
I don't see anyone else saying this so, late to the party though I am, I thought I might as well chime in with some info.
Lithium-based rechargeables have a varying terminal voltage which gives a fairly accurate indication of the state of charge of the cell. Depending on the exact chemistry used, the maximum terminal voltage can be 4.2V while the minimum can be under 3.0V.
Charging one of these requires both voltage and current limiting, which is what the circuit you added does. Firstly, the current is limited to around half the "C" of the battery (so for an 800mAh battery, around 400mA charge current) since charging at too fast a rate will damage the cell. Secondly, once the voltage rises to the maximum permitted for the particular chemistry being used, it is capped at that voltage and the current is allowed to drop until it reaches about 1/10th of the starting current, at which point charging is stopped.
Different battery chemistry will slightly alter the voltages. Some batteries need to be charged to 4.1V per cell instead of 4.2V per cell and some can tolerate being discharged down to 2.5V while others need the discharge to stop around 3.0V.
Getting the correct circuit for the type of battery you're going to use is essential if you want the maximum life out of your battery. The circuit you chose is designed to work with Li-Po cells and was designed to fit, along with a Li-Po, inside the case of a 9V battery so that you can have what appears to be a rechargeable 9V battery except that it is charged using 5V through a separate connector in the battery case.
4:53 I'd grab my hacksaw and cut it in half so that the outer plastic can be used as a battery cover.
Mmm... Hacksaws... Very handy tool!
Similar TI calculator, and also dead cells. Simply used a 3V6 1W zener diode, and a surplus 6V wall wart, with a 1W dropper resistor to give a 3V6 rail to replace the old crusty deader than a doornail N type NiCd cells in it. Only problem is a bit of keyboard bounce, but for a calculator that I got for $1 it was worth it. Has been the workshop calculator for many years, simply left on most of the time, though i did rewire the power switch to short the zener to turn it off, relying on the wall wart poor regulation to drop the dissipation down, though not the most efficient method. Did slap a 68uF 16V blue tantalum bead across the zener, because that was the first capacitor I found when looking in the bag of surplus parts.
These old TI calculators are surprisingly hardy little things! Though the TI programmer does also have quite a bit of keypad bounce. My TI-2500 on the other hand isn't nearly as bad and the keypad definitely feels higher quality. TI was pretty keen on keeping their calculators as affordable as possible it seems.
That's a nice solution for making the calculator a wired solution! Simple and clean and the calculator should run pretty much forever!
Great fun and inspiring, thanks!
i might try that for my dad's old HP 67. Cheers from Austin TX.
Ooh, the HP 67 is a very cool calculator! HP used a weird battery pack setup, and it seems they're packs produced 3.7V, so interestingly, a LiPo produces just about the perfect amount. In which case you'd just need a LiPo charger module to make life easy for charging. Though, LiPos do tend to sit a little high it seems at around 4.1V, so I'm not sure how sensitive the HP calculator is to slightly higher voltages, that would need to be looked into before doing too much.
And that's crazy you're from Austin! I'm just a few hours north of Austin , it's a small world!
Crazy cool stuff! Had to sub!
Thank you!
@@UsagiElectric Hey, believe it or not you are part of the reason I am starting a channel. Thanks for all you do! Cheers!🤟
@@UsagiElectric yeah, good competition is better than no comp...
What kind of parasitic power drain does that voltage booster have when the calculator is powered off?
I had one of those! Very cool tiny LEDs.
The LEDs are absolutely minuscule! I was a little surprised actually when comparing it to the TI-2500 next to it. The TI Programmer LEDs are about half the size and they use a little domed lens to magnify the digits. The unfortunate side effect of that is they have a much stricter viewing angle than the TI-2500. Still, I'm really happy with both of my little TI calculators!
You should trim the wires so there is not a lot bare conductor floating around waiting to cause a short circuit. The insulation should be right up and close to our joint. Still nice to see an old hp working again.
Thank you!
Everything is fairly securely mounted, so I'm not too worried about shorts. Also, the leads that are a little too long are just for the charging port, so 99% of the time, there's no power on those wires at all.
The resistor attached to the TP4056 IC's pin 2 is Rprog used to set the charge rate. Your module is probably set to the maximum 1000mA. A maximum charge rate of 1C is recommended for generic lipos:
Rprog Value - Charging Current
10K Ohms - 130mA
5K Ohms - 250mA
4K Ohms - 300mA
3K Ohms - 400mA
2K Ohms - 580mA
1.66K Ohms - 690mA
1.5K Ohms - 780mA
1.33K Ohms - 900mA
1.2K Ohms - 1000mA
Very good eye! I just checked the board and it does indeed have a "122" SMD resistor, which I believe is 1.2k and should give a maximum of 1,000mA. The LiPo I'm using is a 500mAh battery, which gives a charge rate of 2C? In the future I may have to knock that resistor down to about a 2.2k ohm or so.
Thank you for the insight!
As always. I have to say,. Great montage music!. You have a gift in the pairing of montage music with the montage .. scenes?
This video was really inspiring. Because you installed the LIPO battery and converter/charge board. but into the existing battery pack. So it feels more "authentic" or original to the design of the calculator.
Not that I use batteries in guitar pedals any more. Mostly a power supply you plug in. But I feel the inspiration from your video to attempt to convert a guitar pedal to use lipo battery plus boost converter mod like this. so when the pedal is plugged into the pedal board it will function off the external power supply and charge the lipo.. but if i pull the pedlal off for heading out to a remote gig., then i can just grab the pedal and go, and not have to worry about the usual "has it been 3 gigs or 4 gigs since i replaced the 9V battery in this, and should I replace it before I head out."..
Really not being an "eco terrorist" and not needing to rely on disposable one time use batteries, is a huge virtue for me.
Thank you for the great video!
Thank you so much!
I quite like the elevator like feeling that the music in this montage gives, haha.
That's actually a really brilliant use for a LiPO! I'm surprised more guitar pedals don't do that, it seems like the perfect logical next step. More life and less chance for you get to a gig and have the pedal be dead.
I would stick some insulation tape on the battery.
So it can’t short the Bord below it when it moves around.
Good videos nonetheless!
Oh dear, He's going to put LiPO's into everything, He's caught the bug. LOL.
If it's portable and needs charging, throw a LiPo at it!
Though, I don't think there's enough small LiPos in stock anywhere to power the tube computer, I'll have to stick with wall power for that beast, haha.
@@UsagiElectric OMG. The ultimate laptop. Ha ha.
My question is, why not just use the existing mini USB connection for charging it instead of hogging out the case to fit a barrel jack?
I had one of those. Received it with the batteries also toast. Got rid of the bits and just left the bottom cover and used it with alkaline 9V batteries. Very unflattering key action though.
Yeah, it really seems that the number one thing that fails on these old calculators are the batteries!
I agree with you though that the keypad is not the best. My TI-2500 has a much better keypad, so I end up using it 90% of the time, but it's nice to have the hex/oct capability on the occasion!
Cant say I havent done something similar, maybe even twice... ...in the same place in try 1 and 2 of one of my projects ! hahaha
but the difference between us is skill level, im over here trying to figure out how to build a simple SE amplifier and you at the same time are making a vacuum tube computer, Still the main thing is that it works !
Thank you!
And thank you for the kind words, though I don't really think I have all that much skill, I'm just painfully stubborn, even after realizing that I totally dremeled off an important piece of plastic on accident, haha.
Nice mod. I would have just used a rechargeable 9V battery. :)
Thank you!
That would have been the easy solution, but I really wanted to use the same 5V wall-wart that I use for my TI-2500. Sometimes, self-imposed restrictions mean a ton more work, haha.
5:44 Huh, rebuilding that pack would be fairly easy tbh.
Just put 2 new NiCds in mine (so I could use it on Halloween as programmer-nerd). I have two of these TI Programmers, but only one with the "boost circuit".
Why use power tools when a small side cutter can do the plastic trimming easily?
Hi there ... great mod! My mother got me a Ti59 when I got into university way, way, way back. I would like to resusrect that device if I could. Do you have a link for the charging circuit?
I added a cell phone battery to my TI-59. Just solder some wires from the battery directly to the tabs inside the calculator. The battery has a BMW built-in and works with the original AC 5.7VAC charger.
You get several hours of run time.
very cool !!!!!!
Thank you!
Oh my Pkcell !!😁😁
This LiPo is actually from Adafruit, though I have no clue where they source their cells from!
Found the mate who also watches dankpods
I did something similar with my TI Programmer.
I think if you make a video to explain how the board works, I mean all chips rams roms ect... And the internal power supply, it will be so educatif, thanks
Interestingly, most TI calculators use a single chip design. The TI Programmer shown here uses a single TMC0983 chip and nothing else. The chip itself is really fascinating though, and that family of chips is often considered the first ever microcontroller. It stuffs a 4-bit processor, a mask ROM and RAM all into a single package. It was also the family of chips that really let TI absolutely dominate the handheld calculator market for so long!
@@UsagiElectric thank you so much for your help and time
But that's not a LiPO battery, that's a normal Li-ion battery.
BTW, Li-ion batteries are 4.2V when full, and 3.0V when depleted.
Looks like lithium polymer to me.
Regardless, you're correct about the voltages.
Come on man, wireless charging 🐰🚀😃
What is that part number for that boost converter how useful :)
These particular ones are "AITRIP Boost Chargers", though I don't know if there's a specific part number for the board. They do make use of the TP4056 charge IC though. I was a little skeptical at first, but I'm quite happy with how they work!
@@UsagiElectric thanks! I have a ti-calculator I need to fix I was thinking about putting something like this in one.
nice job
but wouldnt it be nicer to have the charge lights vissable?
Thank you!
Honestly, I know it charges from empty to full in under an hour, so whenever it gets low, I'll just plug it in for 20 minutes or so and itl'l be good for probably another month!
@@UsagiElectric I just like blinking lights that is why I asked XD
I would just buy lipo 9v (8.4v) print enclosure and we’ll done
I always wondered how these old calculators calculate square root using discrete logic
Interestingly, neither my TI-2500 or the TI-Programmer can do square root operations, so it's certainly something that's quite difficult. There are some ways it can be done in binary using some clever calculating with algorithms that are way over my head, but it seems the simplest way to handle it is to just have a lookup table stored in a ROM somewhere. No calculation is actually done, it just receives some parameters, then looks up what the answer is and displays that.
Certainly not the sexiest solution, but gets the job done!
Most likely they use the Newton-Raphson method for square roots.
The wire length on those batter wires... Anyone smell fire?
PKCELL!
Where is the rabbit?
Dude, don't you have a 3D printer? If not, you need one.