1687 Waste Oil Rocket Stove
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2022
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My husband has been saving waste oil from his various cars over the past 20 years, with a few large plastic drums of oil now stacking up in the front garden. Concerned about the longevity of these drums, I had asked him to remove them before they perish.
In the meantime, I had been considering 'cleaning' all this waste oil by using mycelium from Oyster mushrooms (big block of it ready to go in the fridge - this oil cleaning method discovered by Paul Stamets, world-renowned mycologist) and then using filters - in an attempt to make the oil reusable again.
However, turning waste oil into a heating fuel sounds good - if not for the house, then at least for my husband's workshop.
Always interesting! Living on a farm with multiple tractors and other vehicles used motor oil is an excellent and available resource for heating.
you are so lucky - you also have red diesel!!! - lol
Same brother! Really looking deep at all his waste oil videos to find (or invent) the perfect burner
I love how much amusement you had when talking about a bent pipe and a wire basket.
Thank you Rob for your positive, uplifting attitude, it always gives me a smile in this hard times.
A little tip, just the tip, and only for a minute:
You can use a 12 volt Diaphragm Liquid Pump connected to a Variable Voltage Controller to replace a drip system and make it much more controllable and accurate. They are self priming and can pump from 1ml per minute to about 500ml minute depending on input voltage. Another important thing with oil burners is to filter the oil-you can use cheesecloth and coffee filters whilst transferring from one container to the other, or a little higher tech version using a pump and automotive oil filter-but it's very important. Oil straight from a vehicle or machine is preferable, but if you don't have that luxury then filtration and a water separator is a must. If you use a spray nozzle system one way to keep the nozzle cleaner is to build an inset into the wall of your burn chamber, a 1" section of pipe with a drilled cap welded onto an appropriately sized hole works well. Another Tip: an air powered "Engine Degreaser Wand" sold at Harbor Freight in the USA works exceedingly well as a suction and spray nozzle for liquid fuel burners. I heard from an industrial foundry owner that's what he uses for high output oil burners. One more tip: a little diesel fuel mixed with the oil really aids in ignition, pre heating, and stability of flame as well as oil flow. I use 10% diesel or kerosene approximately and it is well worth the trouble and expense.
remember though the simplest gravity drip feed, on to the super hot drip pan/rock wool ,will always vaporise/distil the hotter viscous liquid fuel & leave any & all macro carbon & metal contaminant's etc behind -to make some conductive ink later ;)- , no real super fine slow pre filtering required as long as it gets down the drip feed tube while getting heated as it travels nearer.
i suppose you could always paint on a conductive carbon ink 12v heater + pv + battery on to a super fine steel mesh with copper strips to carry the current & so make the fuel thinner while you filter...
Just when I thought that the rocket stove design reached its peak of brilliance! Amazing work Mr. Murray-Smith! It seems that the rocket stove is to DIY heating solutions what the pull-ups are for the home gym. Endless ways to do it.
Cheers!
The genius of the rocket stove is that the entering air is preheated by the partially burnt wood which falls down to the bottom of the burn tube.
If you design a way for some of the heat of combustion to come back upstream and heat the entering air before it reaches the fire.
You might do this by creating a venturi by bending a bit of plate into a J shape and laying it flat in the tube. The plate would have outlet holes at the arch of the J, the low pressure point of the venturi. The tip of the J, near the fire where the pressure is higher, could be propped up to form a slot.
The pressure differential in the tube would then draw hot gasses back under to the arch of the plate where it would be drawn through the outlet holes to heat the incoming air.
Insulating the tube would also retain heat to vaporize the fuel.
Rob...
Please consider affixing a bell chamber atop the exit of your rocketstove. Would allow you to separate more heat from your exhaust gasses (and could be a convenient addition to lengthen your chimney).
My 2 cents...
I used to use oil (motor and cook) with a nozzle with an air compressor to “pulverize” the oil and burn it!
Woah just discovered this channel! So much to watch!
I built something similar except I run the flue into an inverted 47kg gas cylinder, taking the flue gas out from the bottom/ top of the cylinder
It heats a 32 X 32 workshop that has little to no insulation, we use wood, coal, oil anything that burns to stop the smoke we diluted the used oil with some red diesel the top / bottom of the cylinder that has a piece of boiler plate let into it as a cooking surface glows cherry red.
It can be
- 5°c outside we are in t-shirts inside it doesn't take long to get going , it gets so hot it burns the smoke.
Combine the endless wick with vegetable oil and a rocket stove!
Awesome, love learning new things from you guys. Have a wonderful day!
I built more complex Lego toys as a child! Engineering, indeed! I love the simplicity of this and the original concrete block proof of concept design. It inspires imagination for other designs.
Well Robert, the easiest way to improve the burning is to put a cap pipe on the exhaust pipe and make the burned gases go down the covered exhaust pipe and make the smoke come out the bottom. Easy peasy way of really getting way more heat. That is my idea Sir. Look forward to see all the improvements that send efficiency through the roof. Peace vf
It's because you have comments set to top, and if no one has liked any comments, there isn't a top one.
Commercial pressurized use oil burners have canister filters to remove anything that would clog the nozzle.
Rocket stoves work on the "excess air" principle of combustion. Typically, they have enough excess air for wood and small amounts of other combustibles. Adding oil increases the temperature enough to cause rapid degradation of the burn chamber. I have many, many videos, starting in 2007. Many explain the principles.
Sand battery will become workable for sure.
Would be also interesting to ad the same type of device you use for waste oil, but with clean water, a valve and a spray, to try different mixtures into the combustion chamber..
Absolutely love it Bob 😁👏
i like the feed in the chimney, as a preheater.. might also consider a small bit of some rockwool under your screen too wick up any of the oil that drips down to the bottom..
I like simple, especially simple engineering.
So since waste oil is still I believe recyclable can we use vegetable or canola oil to do the same thing. Both of those have ignition temps of 406 & 425 respectively I am told.
Also doing the same thing but in a masonry heater could be very efficient heat. Burning about an hour or so will keep the mass heating it's space for a good 15 plus hours.
Does anyone else get the mad scientist vibe when Robert laughs?
Too funny !
A couple improvements right off the bat: Insulation for the fire box--the hotter it burns, the better, though you will want to protect the steel if is a very hot burn (many ways both of these can be done, and it can be a "two birds, one stone" solution too).
Switch out the copper pipe for stainless steel (or an even less thermally conductive material). Copper is way too thermally conductive. You run the risk of possibly over heating the oil reservoir oil (you could use copper towards the very top though, to actually cool it down a bit, if it is far enough away from the heat, but the first 3/4th of the material really should be something else). Besides using steel pipe etc, I would also put either a little insulation and/or an IR reflector at the bottom of the reservoir can to double make sure that this doesn't happen. .
Actually, I don't know why I even write comments here tbh. People rarely respond at all (besides you occasionally Rob, which I do appreciate). They often go without a reply, or even a single like. I don't know if my ideas are just considered stupid, or I'm really just not enough of one of the cool kids or what. I guess I continue to share in case there is anything helpful to any of it.
Your comments have stood out to me as constructive and interesting, I usually look to the comments for tips like this because there is usually as much insight in them as in the actual video.
I would keep in mind that many more people will read a comment than will reply to it. I usually don't have anything constructive to add myself without going into far more detail than is likely to be useful to people.
Good comments are lost in the sea of idiotic ones.
At least you have an understanding of what a rocket stove is... but in this case you're making improvement suggestions for his metal test stove
He's just testing the oil... Rob is intelligent enough to make an efficient rocket stove once the oil concept is proven
@@dismayedtrinket2518 Thank you for the kind words. I hadn't seen your comment earlier, but apparently someone liked it recently and I finally got a notification.
@@bigpie6240 Cheers
You could run a tube inside a tube to prevent clogging
I need to get myself a cheap welder... that stove has lots of potential!! Thanks for the video!
No you don't a metal rocket stove is as good as a chocolate fire guard!
Awesome fast brilliant and a good results! For a Rocket stove we need three part a ashbox an feedingpipe and a pip to burn stuff in, if the pipe to burn stuff in is round we can make the hole in the round (gas-bottle) have feed in the pipe like a vortex-burn! When the burning stay in the bottom and slowly works up! I just love it!!!🥸👍
Here's a challenge for you mate. How about seeing how much electrical energy you can get in the maximum amount of ways! I can think of atleast 4 ways of how the one rocket stove can produce electricity but would love to see how much you can get out of it at once.
that's an interesting challenge mate - cheers
It being smoky is because there's too much oil and not enough air. One could atributenthe amount of airflow to the height of the chimney being insufficient, but one needs to know to regulate the rate of oil dripping. Preheating the oil helps getting the oil to flow in cold weather. But once the oil is flowing well, the rate of flow probably needs to turned down. If at least to avoid over heating it and carbonization of the oil inside the oil feed line.
That looks like a better quality burn, how about adding a few stainless mesh screen layers just above the Firebox in the smokestack, the heated metal will help crack all of the remaining fuels in the exhaust, however you may want to add an air pipe which is superheated through the fire chamber into the middle of your stack of stainless screen thus creating a catalytic converter at the base of the stove pipe making that area extremely hot?
In my previous comment I related how I mixed gasoline into the waste vegetable oil to get it going when it was cold. Since pondering that last video, and after watching this one, I was struck again at how easy it seems to do this and I realized that you are doing this on a nice summer day. I can guarantee that at -30° C you would have much more trouble getting it going. The oil (especially vegetable) gets really thick and won't drip. What is needed is a temporary burner tray underneath the oil reservoir to warm it up first, similar to the vintage blow torches or kerosene lanterns where they would use spirits or paraffin to heat the generator up first. I wonder if you could employ a swing out mechanism or even a sliding tray that would allow the oil reservoir to start out in the flue to be warmed first then slid out once reaching operating temperatures? In any regard you should put the bean can with the oil and drip tube in the deep freezer for your experiments because if someone actually needed to do this when it was freezing outside it could be almost useless.
I think you may have answered the question that I had, why not put the oil feed at the fuel Tower ie the short part of the j.. where he has it mounted now as soon as you do get it fired up it will start heating the oil in the feed tube. Considering that it's a rocket stove just a small fire at the opening should heat the oil enough to get it flowing
I am sorry mate - it never occurred to me - we never get that weather here in the UK - but I am glad you brought it up - you give good advice thanks for the add
... like a saddle tank...
Your looking pretty good for still being alive from 1685 with it being 2022 you must be a vampire 🧛♀️
Where was the 🚀? Need some more air pressure.
We always build waste oil burners for our cold winter garages to stay warm.
Do the water coil heater along with the oil burner and maybe even place a hot air stirling "enging plate" with some kind of linkage so you can use the heat to power a fan blowing into the air intake as a sort of supercharger.
no coil or pump required ,just add a stand alone -removeable- small sealed back boiler 'box' with side overhangs to capture & transfer even more heat in to the water box ,above the burn & 2 large diameter straight up copper pipes, one for the hot water to flow up to the top of the storage tank & one to let the cooler water in the lower part of the storage tank fall down, heat convection differential in the separate hot & colder pipes does the pumping to/from the higher storage tank & keeps the box & pipes always full
That may work just as well with a stainless steel scourer pad or eve. Some pumice pebbles in the drip basket?
Areet man Back again 💚💛❤️ was looking for the video of making fuel from plastic and stuff but can't find it. It popped up but was about to watch something else. Cool thing you built there. My friend once made a greenhouse heater using waste oil. The oil would drip down slowly and heat water pipes and it was gravity fed. Can't remember exactly how it worked but it was in a biscuit tin back in the 80's 💚💛❤️
I guess you could get a spray nozzle or something of that kind and pressurize the oil with an air pump inside of a closed container.
Also, a thicker steel stand would be good to have so when it startd glowing hot, you certainly got ignition.
Well, essentially, some injection car parts.
Heck, a hand pump would do.
😂You really funny man... I like watching your video.
Suggestion:
1) Coil the copper drip pipe to improve preheating
2) Have 2 sets of wool. One for use as a wick like u're currently doing. The other as a filter, together with a funnel and buckets, u can clean up the oil prior to combustion. When the wool in the stove becomes unuseable, replace it with the filter piece. Fresh wool to fill in the filter's place. That should help to prevent clogging in the valve.
Mate that's dangerous! You don't pre heat oil in a unristrained flue that is 700c or hotter it's asking for blockage then explosion and a run away train situation wasting oil vapour
Make the chimney about twice the length and add the holes about half way up or roughly where the flames reach (this may be much higher than half way) then cover the holes with some square tubing to make an air passage to preheat the air coming into the chimney and run the square tubing down side along to firebox but leaving open to the air thereby creating a preheated secondary air intake or blast pipe at the end of the flame path and it should reignite any unburnt fuel.
@shortbuslife3440, this sound interesting, but i’m dense on this having no clue why i’d drill holes (quantity n size?) n then cover them w sq pipe …run inside or outside the smoke stack?
@@patrickbourque6864 the square tube would obviously need a hole cut into it to allow air to pass through it and the holes in side and the square tube will also get hot thereby preheating the air before it enters the burn area plus stops any smoke leaving the holes.
@@shortbuslife3440 ... more confused than before, i give up in trying to understand this
Insulating the combustion area would help! I see nothing wrong with putting a tube into a masonry rocket system that can be connected to with an oil feed as a secondary fuel.
stick a couple bells and some mass on the exhaust path...voila
Would love to see how many uses we could accomplish with one of these using the same amount of oil. Another words coil some copper for a water heater . Then maybe a flat piece of flat stock that we could cook off of. Maybe a way to generate a bit of electricity also from it. Could be interesting.
Put the spray nozzle on the drip feed so it sprays onto the wick below the fire/burn line.
Then you have the vapor carried by the updraft and the oil soaked into the wick from the spray. Could be worth a go I'd say. 🤔
Long suffering rocket stove lol 😂
OK, have run an old engine oil burner for about a year now. This design does not work for long because the vaporizing in the heated pipe soon blocks the pipe with a solid carbon deposit. What will work is the pipe going through the shorter feed tube, block the bottom opening and the air being pulled through keeps the oil pipe cool. That will keep the burner going longer without blocking. Any flame at the end of the oil tube will soon carbon up solidly. The design I use is an n shape square tube, pc fan forcing air through and oil dripping down from top of n shape. Downleg of n shape in an old fire extinguisher with top cut off. This burns so hot that the fire extinguisher tube glows red. Oil deposits carbon that I break out after everyday run. The run is usually about 4 hours continuous to heat coils above for hot water.
Do you have any interest in posting a video, sharing the link and letting us hit the like button! I've read your comment a few times but I think it's best to see to fully grasp the concept.
My suggestion for a mod: steam turbine generator. Use that heat to pressurize a boiler.
Maybe put the carbon matting on the wool to protect it, burt the matting
Seen them made with calor bottles a brake disc and pipe drop feed as you did . Then wrap some coils around it to take that heat off into water either hot storage or high pressure steem
yep - seen lots of them mate tbh - like the coil idea
The one I did years ago was for used automobile oil and it worked ok as long as the oil was preheated but at -30C in Canada we need some wood to go with it as the used oil used up too fast.
Great videos Rob! I'm thinking about making a simple oil or disel burning rocketstove engine heater for my tractor to ease coldstarts in the winter here in scandinavia.
Use a charcoal basket it's much safer and once you know how much charcoal you need it's also reliable and you won't need to watch over it all morning
If you look carefully at the stove, you have the beginnings of a milling machine.
Just add a small blower to the bottom and that flame will turn blue and less smoke will come out if any.
This arrives at the right time for me. I just made a rocket stove to use pellets through gravity and wanted to add the oil dripper I had in my other regular stove. I had turned a regular wood stove as a pellet stove and used oil burner as well. Inside my regular stove, I would burn pellets, used oil or wood which would heat the bladder I have made inside, to heat the coolant that heats the floor of my shop.
I have dropped the idea of using my regular stove burning pellets as the way it burnt them, made me go through 3 bags a day!!!! Not economical at all. Fast forward to last week where I built a rocket stove with a 3 inch square tube inside a 4 inch square tube. Between the 2 tubes, will be the coolant flowing. The initial test I made to see if it would work was conclusive but need more heat for it. I had a garden hose on the intake with water coming from our 360 feet deep well and that is cold water. The output was warm water so I know I do get some kind of recuperation of heat but I don't know the exact number.
I am in the process today to remove the old stove and put the rocket stove in its place. I will be burning pellets, twigs and of course, use the same apparatus I had for used oil burning from the old stove.
Question is this. Do I have to put the tube THROUGH the chimney or is this just because you were just doing a test?
As far as using water like you describe, slow down the water flow and use it in a counterflow fashion, that is, the cool or return water comes in and flows toward the flame and out at the hottest part.
Hey! I'im not fergetting my vortex flame idea, and so maybe sculpting the mineral whool a bit like a propeller could help ? And feeding air more from one side than the other so it will naturally swirl..?
I wonder if it would be worth cleaning the oil a little before burning it. A mesh filter to grab out chunks of stuff, and a water wash to clean out salts might help, or maybe just be a waste of time.
Great video as ever Rob…Could you perhaps change out the bean can for an adapted oil filter, less crud in burn 🔥 lower pollution etc some hold about a pint too?🍺 👍
nice suggestion mate I like the idea of filtering it - cheers
Should use Gerry’s diy biscuit tin air vent with Caron felt donut with out drip feed just fill tin with oil and get it started with air flow underneath tin in a normal wood stove . Used Cooking oil engine oil ....
My only concern about the feed line inside the chimney is that once the system is working at high temperature, you will start to carbonise the oil, ultimately requiring maintenance
Is the mineral wool used the same as rock wool insulation used in houses?
It may just be me, but I am big into having multiple uses for things, including the type of fuel a thing can use. It seems to me that this could and should be fettled such that you burn wood and have the oil dripping onto it. It would likely require a deeper burn-chamber eventually, but for proof of principle surely one could put wood upon a grate such as you use here, and then have a 2nd teir below that with mineral wood to catch and burn any drips that make it past the wood. Perhaps both fuels would burn more efficiently together, given sufficient oxygen.
As the name states “Rocket Stove” I wonder what the air velocity is from the top of the chimney and if this could be used to spin a turbine to generate power, I keep thinking about the early centrifugal jet engines and how similar the stove is to the burner section.
That is a good question. I might have to add a 12 PC fan to blow air in to make it hotter and having some kind of turbine on the top, would make it self powered to go!
Would a type of Bell nozzle on the end of the chimney reduce the length requirement?
Not that I know anything but I'd have put the oil feed above the mineral wool at the shorter chimney (at the front) and brought the mineral wool nearer the front load.
To my mind this would mean less pipework, less heat hitting the oil well and a longer run for the flame to draw through?
Totally happy to be told that I'm off base as I'm sure there's lots I don't yet understand 😆
Have you tried the carbon foam?
So, aside from pre heating the feedstock, what was the purpose of placing the feed tube down the chimney?
👍
Well the wick work on the wocket stove?
I wonder how well this would work if placed into a fireplace with a long chimney? I'm guessing that it would still be smokey due to the gap between the stove chimney and the fireplace chimney. Could this be engineered to fit into a home's fireplace safety to provide heat using oil instead of wood. If so, this could be incorporated to supplement a home's heat. Many of us burn wood in the winter to reduce our heating costs. Would be great if we could use this instead of wood. Oil feed would need to be external to be safe, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
If you put gelatin mix in the oil, will it settle out and take the metal particles with it, leaving more purified oil?
Hi Rob, just wondering how much oil (volume) does the rocket Stove burn per 15mins ?.
Can we use the forever wick with this?
Mate the mineral wool in a draft chamber with burning flames may well produce harmful microscopic glass fibres and thus make the inhaler of such exhaust susceptible to lung cancer. Just don't use mineral wool in such applications and you'll be way safer. All the best.
Do you need fairy dust to get the sand battery started?
I'm curious. The rocket stove uses an air intake duct from one side of the device, combusts right at the bottom of the chimney and the heated air rushing up the chimney creates a negative pressure in the air ducts, causing air to be sucked into the combustion chamber.
Why is the air inlet only at one side of the device? Isn't the diameter of the inlet the limiting factor, limiting how efficiently can the fuel burn in it?
I'm asking, because with the bricks you fashioned the same exact model: air goes in from the duct in front and goes out through the chimney. Then you had trouble reaching the combustion chamber and the air inlet diameter was again a limiting factor. Why not create an air inlet 360º around the combustion chamber? I.e. arrange 3 or 4 narrow bricks around the combustion chamber so you could access it easily from either side, and stack a brick chimney on top of those 3-4 bottom bricks. The way I understand, heated air will still create negative pressure around the burning chamber and suck all the air it needs for burning. Am I wrong?
If my thinking is correct, then perhaps it'd make sense to remake the rocket stove into a round version as well, feeding air from the bottom or 360º around the combustion chamber?
Sure, drilling holes is always an option. But holes increase the surface area with thin corners (metal corners 'round the hole) which will rust the whole stove faster.
can a rocket stove be made from sound proofing
fiber board
Ok, stay with me on this, ok? It need a turbo! Everything works better with a turbo lol.
This will work better with additional air-flow right? It's best to bring that from outside imo, rather than pull-in air from the space you are trying to heat and then blowing it immediately out the chimney.
With a clean burn, I wonder if the exhaust gasses could power a small fan, attached to another fan that is responsible for moving fresh air inward? Now an actual turbo from a vehicle would be too heavy and need some monster-sized stove and likely take ages to get-going and anyway be super loud.
But something small, simple and home-made might just be enough to give you some gains in efficiency overall. You've already got suitable air-in ports on that rocket-stove, "just" connect one end up to that, and the chimney to the other side of the "turbo" and Bob is yer father's brother!
I think this may be an easier option for me to heat my wood boiler water (180F).
Hoping to supplement with waste oil. I’ve got over 300 gallons!!! That’s a bunch of BTUs lol
Okay, I feel a bit stupid with my comment on improving something made and thought trough by u, but here we go. Short and sweet, if the goal is to heat the walls of the rocket stove, perhaps implementing welded on ribs in an angle or more a design how it would be inside a rifle silencer, thereby holding that heat in longer and provide more radiant heat while burning less fuel, perhaps only in front or in back or where it’s the hottest, Not pinching the air flow too much. We have a chimney in our house but it is closed up. I would love something like this there to heat the house and perhaps get the central heating pipe get heated up and let the already installed pump circulate it. Wondering if I could lead the central radiator pipe outside, go trough the heater and back into the system. But I thing it would boil the water and cause a system problem getting rid of the pressure. But yeah, that inside of a silencer seems to me a way to get more buck out of that bang, indeed, who doesn’t like 🔥 flame :). Thanks for your efforts to make these fun and educational videos
So I'm To understand that Mineral Wool will Not wick water, therefore one should assume that it won't wick waste oil. So if we were to provide oil to a pan by way of an automatic float assembly, what material would work to wick it to the point of burn? Also, any ideas on an automatic float assembly that will maintain an oil level in the pan?
How about a video demonstrating how easily waist mineral oil can be de-slimed. This might be useful for people who have access to a gallons and gallons of WO. This slim is not normaly apparent as it is dispered in the oil. It forms from ions of metal from the wearing surfaces becoming chemically part of oil molecules. Hence, it is not to be confused with the gum of vegetable oils. Still. It is responsible for forming a varnish in diesel injectors and the crud in burners. Fortunately the slim is denser than oil and so the oil can be spun off in a centrifuge. It is best done with the oil hot but a demo showing that it is possible to improve poor quality oil may find interest especially if they want to use it in Indirect injection Diesel engines. Engine oil is not so good for small direct injection engines though, as it doesn’t atomise well.
Regarding the burner. For anyone wanting to build one for regular use, there are catalytic converter sold for wood stoves which will help get the emissions down to legally acceptable limits (yes, there are laws for stoves now).
A couple of suggestions: reduce the length of the horizontal burn tunnel (I'd do that for burning wood too, that should be rather short. I've no idea why people make that part so long) and play around with the air intake. As I believe you mentioned, oil is going to have it's own air requirements and the basic RS design is optimised for burning wood.
Incidentally, for wood, ideal air intake is 1/4 system size. Generally, you get that (or close enough) by default with a feed full of wood loosely in. You'll notice that's the cleanest burn time of the cycle, with a mouth full of flaming stuff.
I think that once the WVO burner is tuned up properly, then the metal parts in the combustion area are going to have to go away. This is true for wood burning RS as well but likely moreso for oil burning.
nice suggestions mate and thank you but shortening the burn tunnel doesn't work well - I tried it and there esult is worse if it is too short - this length worked well
Long tube= more draw and the ability to add after burner.. but I'm still playing with decota fire holes.. and building a charcole barrell 😎
@@ThinkingandTinkering a shorter horizontal burn tunnel of s better in my experience! getting a good burn it Al about primary en secondary air your have a awful lot of primary air the size of the chimney XD close it of en feed it more secondary air,
@@ThinkingandTinkering
Huh.. the usual optimal proportion is 1:2:4 for a wood burning rocket. (Feed:burn tunnel:heat riser)
I can see how your situation may be so: the feed to riser height is relatively tall (feed being tall) and since there is an overall need for enough time (aka length) in the system for full combustion, your current config would be a good compromise.
The riser part (what you're calling a chimney) for a system that's 4 inches (sorry, I'm an American still using the kings units) is often best placed at 5 or 6 rather than 4 (if that makes sense), which helps with the increased friction to volume found in smaller stoves.
Rocket and roll 😘
I would like to see the exhaust
I have a question for you can you create 220 volt power from a 12/24v car alternator because I have seen people doing this on UA-cam
Especially a person with a phase motor with a starter competitor on the side of the motor connected to the alternator with a mains plug to
But he is using alternator in a 3-phase output of 220 v to a pug through of the two phases of 3-phase from the alternator
Looping background to the electric motor
Would the copper be able to heat up to a flash point causing the oil inside to start burning (explode)? Would it be better to put the copper o the outside and through a port just slightly ahead of the burn area to reduce the heat? Love the setup and I was just wondering what to do with my waste oil from my cars.
It is possible to overheat the oil in the feed line. Doing so causes the oil to disassociate into hydrogen gas and carbon buildup. Maybe there's a chance it could expode but more likely it would just block oil from going all the way through, and any pressure from the hydrogen gas would simply be quickly disipated back through the open valve. Note that by the time carbon deposits fully block the tube, the fire has been oil flow starved for awhile and not as hot as it used to get.
Some preheating of the oil is helpful and may even be nessesary in cold weather.
you'd need quite a lot of oxygen in there for that
it won't flash inside the copper pipe mate - no oxygen. So the only place it can burn is where the drip comes out - if it got hot enough to flash it would do so gradually and first you would get a drip that burns then a study during jet of liquid fuel then a steady burn of gas - a bit like a gas burner - in fact if you see left where we looked inside the firebox you can see the fuel jet go l liquid and burn almost as soon as it exited the copper pipe
@@kensmith5694 yup oil needs to oxygen to burn. But un the absence of oxygen and given too much heat, the hydrocarbon may break down do hydrogen and chuncks of carbon deposits.
I was wondering something... currently there is the copper drip line fed down into the stove. Instead of that, what if there was a single (or a few) tiny holes drilled in the metal above the wool, and the oil canister could be directly connected to the top. It seems it would simplify the parts list, so long as there isn't any danger in the oil heating up.
you want the fuel to heat up ,become more viscous & turn to a near vapour/distilled state, just not so hot it self ignites as happened in the last few seconds of this burn where the drip got to hot ,stopped & the feed pipe end ignited on contact with the limited air.
you want more localised hot air to be dragged in, just drill/grind a few holes/slots on the under/sides, near -before & after- the flame & then cut bend & wrap tightly a bit/couple of steel plate around the square tube so as to just cover the hole(s) then slide it as required to uncover the new airway, simples.
want to do more welding then add 3 leg tubes to lift it all up & have them serve as the extra hot air intakes.
think the old uk coal fire -with the small sealed back boiler 'box' & large diameter straight up copper pipes to the bathroom somewhat insulated tank ,no coils or pumps required, you had one right ^_~- where you balanced the coal shovel over the entrance then used old fish & chip news paper over that to get a massive air draw to the coal flames & grate -& the odd paper fire lol, i remember it well-
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A bulbous tube nebulizer on a drip feed, feed rates and air pattern and absolute volume(s) Sounds complicated >>> But
Will the soot and oil buildup help prevent internal corrosion?
No, best to avoid metal when using a rocket stove
Great channel thanks.
I'm researching how to burn used oil in my wood burning stove in my house. My stove is against an outside wall so the oil tank can be outside the house with an oil feed through the wall to the stove.
Here what I'd like to achieve...
1. I want to be able to remove the oil burner so the stove can be converted back to burning wood in the future.
2. I want it to burn used deep-fryer oil from my local pubs (or used motor oil if I have to) without the use of a fan,
3. I just want the stove to give off background heat, probably 24 hours a day but turned down at night, a bit like an Aga does in a kitchen.
4. I'd like it to burn cleanly so it does not smell and it does not leave gunk in the chimney.
Any advice would be appreciated or better still, perhaps you could do a video to show how it can be done.
Thanks in advance Tony B
I wonder if it could burn plastic cleanly if you enclose some plastic in an enclosed tube and feed the fumes underneat the fire.
Also you could add a salvaged catalytic converter to the exhaust. then run copper pipe to boil water. then run a steam engine, that runs a heat exchanger...
Given that the rocket stove burns really hot, when you stick a copper pipe right through the hottest part of the process, it might cause the copper to melt and then spill a lot of oil into the burning stove and thus cause a little fire. Isn’t it better to insert a stainless steel tip through a hole where you want the oil to drip, connect your oil reservoir to that and of you go?😂
wide craphine vick in wide copper housing. No need to change vick "ever" and u get good heat of any burning oil.
cheers mate
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2 massive points to make.
1 that's illegal in the UK for good reason
2 don't put the drip feed supply in the exhaust it will carbonise and block the 10mm copper tube causing an explosion issue
You're relying on the mineral wool there's no need to pre heat the oil!!!
one point to make. Don't spoil the fun!
@@bendelange7038 it's not fun if it's at the expense of our planet
I froze to death in my workshop but at least I was law abiding. Meanwhile Taylor Swift and many other vacuous celebrities can burn jet fuel on the daily. Jog on mate.
@@dalegribble9101 it's called a jumper. Speaking of jogging that'll keep you warm. Jealousy of celebrities will get you nowhere.
Seek a cleaner fuel sorce before you cause harm with your selfishness
Your are using waste oil in this stove what if we use lpg for burning
If you can make mass rocket heater that is more useful in our areas
If it were a proper rocket stove with the barrel over the top of the exhaust? It would burn clean.
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Want to improve it? Look up omega stove!