3 Generations of Kohler Starters for SV710-SV840 Engines
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Check it out!
The Kohler Courage V-Twin engines with the following model numbers: SV710, SV715, SV720, SV730, SV735, SV740, SV810, SV820, SV830, SV840, ZT and KT Series engines have a major starter issue.
The starter shafts crack, the gear comes off, the c-clip breaks, and generally the starters just don't last as long as they should.
Kohler uses many part numbers, for various generations of these starters, and this video may help you identify which starter you have, so you can purchase the latest (and strongest) 3rd generation starter!
From my research, the numbers listed below all refer to the 1st or 2nd gen starters;
32 083 10-S, 32 098 01, 32 098 01-S, 32 098 03, 32 098 03-S, 32 098 04, 32 098 04-S, 32 098 08-S
The 3rd generation starter is a 32-098-10-S
However, as shown in my video, some resellers and online vendors are selling their remaining stock of 2nd generation starters, and listing them under the 3rd generation part number.
Again, you'll have to do your own research when purchasing one of these starters, to make sure you're buying the correct one.
I've identified what steps you can take in this video, such as removing the dust cap and looking for the welded nut. Looking for the 9 tooth gear. Looking for the metal housing under the gear (not rubber). And making sure the starter is shorter, which will ensure it has the upgraded motor.
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Amazon link for the OEM 3rd gen starter: amzn.to/3srYmhC
I just received a 2nd gen starter using the link above, so don't buy from that seller.
@@mbflower thanks for letting me know, it says genuine OEM Kohler so I was assuming it would be the 3rd gen since it's the 10-S. I'd recommend contacting them and getting a refund!
I'm in the process of having them send another. Looks like they are shipping from a warehouse in NJ. Some people got the 3rd gen. Some are getting older versions. Seems to be a crapshoot right now.@@EliminatorPerformance
I checked out starters to change mine out on my zero turn Gravely and thought it was going to be a snap. Then I looked at the reviews and every different one had 10, 20, 30, video reviews showing snapped off gear shafts. That ended that plan. Then I researched rebuild kits which were just brushes and springs. I didn't even know if that was my problem. Then I watched this video. It saved me from changing brushes that probably weren't even my problem. I looked around and found a couple of Gen 3 starters that stressed that they were not the old ones. It was much easier to buy a starter being informed of the cause of the shafts breaking. I learned a lot besides just that. Our zero turns and tractors go through batteries too frequently. This starter will likely help with that as well. Being shown is nice but being informed is the real thing. One of the most helpful "How To's" that I can remember. Thanks for your effort and your share.
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
DB starters has a quality starter.
Thanks for making this video! I almost bought a second generation starter until I watched your video. I installed a 3rd generation starter in my 2006 Cub Cadet LT1046 and it started right up!
It's definitely the best you can get at the moment!
Great video. Concise, quick and to the point. Thanks for your work.
"This starter will not fail." Don't believe them. I have a 2016 Cub Cadet, XT2 with 26hp Kohler 7000 series motor. Less than 300 hours! Replaced the battery and solenoid and still just clicks and the wires get hot. Pulled the starter (32 098 08; 9 teeth; 8 or 9-inches long) It was locked up. Metal slivers from the thick donut under the gear. Playing with it freed it up, but it will be replaced.
What an absolute life-saving legend thank you
Doing the detective work before going through another tear down and rebuild is being on top of the game - nice work.
The 32-098-01, 32-098-03 and 32-098-04 starters all use a rubber clutch on bottom of gear. On the starter that you refer to as a "first gen" starter - the rubber clutch is totally missing - it would have been shredded to pieces when starter failed (it's not a "rubber dust boot", and those little slots at bottom of gear are usually covered by the clutch). From then, the 32-098-08 and 32-098-10 use an enclosed clutch. Regarding 1st gen, 2nd gen, 3rd gen and "mysterious 2.5 gen", there are 5 different starters to date - the first 3 use 10 tooth gears, and the -08 and -10 use 9 tooth,
Thanks for the great information! And yes, the 08 is what I refer to as the "2.5" gen as it has the 9tooth pinion gear, but lacks the other upgrades.
Good info. All I've been able to get my hands on is the Gen 2 model so I did the re-torque of the nut with red Loctite and keep my fingers crossed. So far so good.
Yes just keep an eye on it. Once the nut is secure, the gear slams up against it so hard it can crack/break the shaft. The only gen3 starters I've been able to find are OEM ones right from Kohler. If ordering online you risk getting a gen2 as shown. And if ordering from a small engine repair shop, you have to specify you want the gen3 with the exact part number I gave.
Great information here! Just make sure you don't call in to Kohler quoting different "gen" numbers, because they won't have any idea what you are talking about. If you stick to specific part numbers, they will know exactly what you mean.
Yes exactly, the manufacturer goes by part numbers, as do I, but these are different generations of the starters so that's what I called the video. Thanks for watching!
I'm currently replacing this starter for my neighbor. The original starter has lasted nearly 17 years. What I ordered appears to be a 2nd gen.10 tooth. Not sure of length until it arrives. I'll add red thread lock before installing it and hopefully will last the remaining life of the tractor. If not it's a cheap super easy fix. Wish I saw your video first just the same.
I bought a new gravely in 2017 with a Kohler KT series motor on it. I was mowing and the engine just stopped thought it was out of gas so put more fuel in it and tried to start it and just got whining noise like the starter wasn't engaging so I poped the starter off and the gear was laying in there sideways, the shaft had totally twisted off, it looked like it was made of pot metal or some cheap metal. The label on it is listed as the 3209808 manufactured in 2016. it has 9 teeth and a shorter motor. I have a new OEM ordered and I am going to compare the shaft to see if the new one is larger. I am hoping that the one I have is before the improved shaft because it didn't last and at times it was having trouble engaging.
why not reverse the thread on the shaft so it tightens itself in use.
My thought exactly
Yes, you'd think that would be the engineers thoughts. However, the shafts are too narrow and made from cheap metal. With the added force of a nut that doesn't back off, they'll definitely end up cracking and breaking like others have.
First thing I thought also
That would be too simple hey! I spot welded my nut to the shaft .done
Hot start is the problem with my kohler. Thanks for the great video and the full explanation on the starters
I have another video one this machine that will be posted this weekend, consider subscribing and stay tuned!
Great vid, thank you! My OE gen2 starter shaft on my Cub GX2 54 failed today. Thanks to your advice, I have a gen3 starter arriving in 2 days. Silver lining: I mowed today after borrowing a friend's Exmark diesel zero turn...wow! I think it's worth more than my car, though, so no upgrade likely...
Where did you get the 3rd gen?
Very timely video for me. I was able to fix my starter and actually got a refund on m starter after only working 5 times before coming apart. I did a brief video on my channel and gave you a shout out with a link in the description directing my viewers to come and see your in depth reveal. Thanks again, George
Yessir, I watched your video last night and left you a comment, also subscribed! Glad to hear you got a refund! I've spoken to 3 people in the past 48hrs who have made videos regarding these Kohler starters to try and get this info out there. Keep up the good work, cheers from Ontario Canada!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks so much, and greetings from Tennessee in the USA.
WOW !- you just solved my problem starting my just inherited Cub Cadet GTX1054. The confusion at AMAZON is significant !! Living in BERMUDA, and having to use an intermediary consolidator/shipper, with added huge expense by them, is frustrating. I am STILL concerned at not getting the TRUE 3rd gen model. Wish I could just walk into a knowledgeable shop tech, and get the correct one !! Thanks again, I have subscribed-- and hit the BLACK bell.
How bad is shipping? It might be cheaper to have a "friend" on the mainland come over for a visit.
@@bobjoned3398 Just solved another starter frustration. Replaced the 10awg from battery to starter with a #4awg.. Instant startup now -- and better charging voltage as well .
I got a kubota commander with a koller on it need a starter asap
Shade tree fix-it man was talking about you and the third-gen Kohler starters. Good to know info. Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know, I'll have to check it out!
Thanks for this in-depth video. I purchased an OEM Kohler starter but it had the 9 tooth instead of my original 10 tooth starter. Had me worried I purchased the wrong starter.
Yes but as shown in the video, there's a mysterious 2.5 gen starter that supposedly has the 9 tooth gear, but not the upgraded shaft or metal housing under the pinion gear. See if you can reference the part number shown for the 3rd gen and make sure it's the same!
@@EliminatorPerformance Dang, I got a 2nd generation starter, haha. 32 098 08-S is what is says on my receipt. Oh well, guess I'll use it until it breaks I guess. Love your video. Thanks a bunch!
This $150 stens replacement starter is the exact same starter that sells for $40 on amazon. It has the exact same failure mode.
Ok, so I have an ExMark with a KT725.
Ran her outta gas, then after a day off to go get gas and refuel her, she won't full turn over. Full 12v at battery, and I can visualize the solenoid spinning up and engaging the flywheel. Seems like the solenoid just cannot crank enough torque to make her spin more than a half turn.
Suggestions??
Excellent review and update. Changes in design and reasons behind the changes were very clearly explained.
Will take on board your advice when, or if I require a new starter unit..
Much appreciated by someone back here in Bonnie Scotland. Cheers.
So glad I found this Video ,Was all set to order a second gen starter until I saw your video will now be buying the gen three starter and thanks to you I know what to look for
Thanks so much for this video! Today my starter died. The top clip hasn't blown off for over 15 years however the shaft spins still but doesnt engage the pinion and the spring is gone. I'm assuming the shaft is stripped to where it wont spin the pinion to crank the engine. it's hard to stomach the 200$ price from the dealer for the new gen starter. I'm gonna go with amazon version with hopefully welded nut and stronger shaft. I can see the 9 tooth gear and metal where the bushing used to be in the pic.
Just make sure it's the 10-S, if it's the 98-S it's the 2.5 gen with the 9 tooth gear but they don't have all the upgrades as the 10-S
The 32-098-04-S and the 32-098-08-S seem to be the mysterious 2.5 gen, which appear to have the new motor and 9 tooth gear, but lack the upgraded shaft and welded nut.
So be sure you order the 32-098-10-S as it is the most current, and strongest built starter!
Also, as others have mentioned, using a left hand thread on the 2nd gen starter would allow the nut to be "self-tightening" as it would tighten when spun counterclockwise. But again, the shafts weren't built strong enough. So they'll still end up cracking, which will ultimately lead to premature failure.
Thank you for all the information, research and hard work you put into this informative video. I had the 32-098-01 starter on my kohler courage 25hp and have been trying to get the thing to start forever. Finally bit the bullet and bought the new 32-098-10 from kohler and now the motor turns over faster than ever every single time without a second thought. Super excited to finally have my zero-turn mower working as intended again. THANK YOU!
Good Video. Thanks for doing the research and putting the info out there. With only 76 HOURS on my Cub Cadet w/27hp (or 26hp?) Kohler the starter shaft broke. I pulled it off and it was the ...-08-S version. I was able to get a ...-10-S locally (and quickly) but they (Weingartz) charged me $220 for the part!!!! They clearly are selling a lot of them as the had a big shelf full and they are located in the closest bin to the parts counter.
I'm pretty dissapointed in this tractor and especially the engine. I have constant problems with it. I use Rec. gas, and perform maintenance regularly - in fact, more than regularly because it always seems to break-down before it regular service interval... The "smart-choke", crappy fuel pump, and carberator are especially troublesome. SeaFoam has become my friend. And I don't mean just putting some in the gas to treat, I mean dumping some right into the intake until sputters, smokes and (hopefully) projectile vomits a bunch of black crap... Then it's usually good for a couple more weeks.
I used to think Kohler was a premium brand but no longer.
Wow hard to believe it takes so many tries to get it right but Kohler finally did it appears. Very good detective work getting all this information which at some point will surely save a number of your viewers major dollars from not buying the incorrect out of date starter. Not many in the small engine business have good things to say about Kohler engines ie: OHV cover leakage!
Thanks for watching!
Get the composite covers with o rings that will not leak.
@@newbernbears What is the cost?
@@waynestefinashen239 Under $20: 32 755 49-S
@@JavanVandeSlunt Thanks for the information Javan will look into that part number
Can’t you tack weld the top of the nut on gen 2?
Yes but the starter gear slams into the nut so hard the shaft will end up cracking and breaking. Which is why the 3rd gen has a thicker shaft
Super awesome awesome information I just lost my third gen starter going back with a second gen I guess they're all not very good
Yea I'd stick with the 3rd generation forsure even if they do break, they seem to break less
@@EliminatorPerformance ok cool I just cancel my order and went with the 3ed gen !
Just get the "Solenoid Shift" starter and be done with it 2509824S. I think it's the same unit that they put on the Command series.
Every Kohler Courage I get in has some kind of starter issues. The bigger and more powerful the engine is the faster the stock starters fail.
Complete junk, had a 27 hp that would not roll over fast enough to start, even with a new battery.
I subscribed to your UA-cam site in gratitude for your help. However, your recommendation to choose Kohler's 32-098-10-S generation-3 starter over Gen-2 will cost your customers a bunch. If one needs to change the 9-star gear, spring, or clean stuck moving parts due to debris, you have at the junket because you cannot open it up by stopping the welded nut.
When I called the factory, they disparagingly told me I was cheap and could buy it for $150 or so. They have not received any complaints, albeit the 'technician' was unfamiliar with the Gen 3 and commented it was above 'his pay grade.' I hope Kohler sees the recording message of this date, so tell the agent to be a little bit understanding with cheap customers.
@@fredobornfree2236 yes it's more money, but I've yet to experience the newer generation starter break due to the thicker shaft. The red thread locker on a 2nd gen works, until it doesn't. I guess if you can do the work yourself, just buy a gen2 and thread lock it, use it until it breaks and buy another Gen2 and repeat the steps. I am of the belief that if the engineers made such a drastic design change (motor, pinion gear, shaft, clutch, housing etc) then it's worth the extra money. Some people can't afford to have to fix something twice, especially if they're paying a mechanic labour and pick up delivery costs.
Best how to video I’ve ever watched thank u
Thanks , your in the know .
Now I am!
My second generation starter blew off the nut washer and spring could you tell me where can I get the spring for this one and what size is the nut for the shaft
Great info! Thanks. I also have had great luck with Stens parts and had them check and measure a part for me.
This vid made me sub up. Great vid man,no one does it this thoroughly anymore.
Thanks for watching, and subscribing!
Awesome video! Super informative on a topic I thought I would be on my own troubleshooting. Pleasantly surprised to find this!
From my inspection of my starter it’s a 3rd gen it has the welded nut it’s on a kt745 Husqvarna z248f. Mine snapped the shaft have you ever seen this on the 3rd gen starter ?
I've never seen that on a 3rd gen, but I have seem that on the 2.5 gen starters. It's possible your engine has defective automatic compression release system making it harder to start and the stress goes to the starter.
@@EliminatorPerformance it is possible I have the 2.5 the date on the starter is 2017 the shaft diameter measured was 16mm.I will definitely look into the compression release thank you for the feed back!
Good info Bud!!☺
Thanks for watching!
You gave a 9 inch length for the older starter length but only stated the 3rd was shorter, how much shorter an where were you measuring?
Good stuff. Thanks
if kohler would have just threaded it with a left hand thread. it wouldnt have that problem.
Yes but the shaft would most likely still crack, which is one of the reasons why the newer one has a thicker shaft
would this be the same for the kohler engines (ZT740) used in kobota zero turn mowers?...the number on the starter is 32-098-08.
Yes if it has the 710-840 series of engines, for the 740 is in that group
never mind. i found the zt engine mentioned in your comments.
as of today 9/7/22 the stens and amazon website are still showing the gen 2 starter as the gen 3, as mentioned and shown in your video.
Just pulled the 3rd gen starter off my kt740 kohler. Nut came off end of shaft.
Edit: part # is 32 098 08 so maybe a gen 2.5. Tried reinstalling the nut, but the threads are wrecked.
get the 10S 3rd gen, you wont have any issues!
Super info these have been a problem for me at the shop for quite some time. Thanks for the good info.
Thanks for watching Rusty and now we know why most repair shops hate Kohler engines. Without contacting Kohler directly we would never have found out about all these issues and changes. Jake does an excellent job at detailing in his videos.
@@waynestefinashen239 yes he does I enjoy and learn from the videos
Looks like the starters are slightly different diameters????
Probably, I never measured that but good eye!
Excellent explanation and great details! Thank you Sir .
Anyone have a part number for the 3rd gen sold on Amazon ?
So you got to keep the starter that you got refunded for?
Yes, I asked if they wanted me to send it back, and they said no. Their reasoning was that they couldn't resell it, as it was used. And it had been warrantied, so it is classified as defective. The starter still technically works, but the nut will eventually come off, or the shaft will most likely break.
@@EliminatorPerformance Put a lock nut on it or weld the nut. And keep it for a rainy day.
I have a question hopefully you can help me with on the solenoid,I ordered and received it and it is not exactly the same mounting pattern, my concern is if the solenoid is wired backwards on the solenoid,, would it matter?
Great information, thanks so much.
Thanks for watching!
I was wondering if I could get a third generation starter for my Kohler KT 735 - 3034. Can you tell me if it will fit or if it is available for this model number? I'm a little confused about the model number and the part number. Please confirm.
I have a Kohler SV541 18hp, Can you tell me if this 3rd gen starter would work with my engine? Thank you for taking the time to do this video, Very much appreciated.
Good video. Searched Amazon and so many conflicting listings. I’m looking for this 3rd Gen starter, 9 tooth, shorter motor design. Who has a legit Amazon US link to buy this starter?
Hard to say, you'd be better off google searching a Kohler dealer local to you and purchasing it there
now I know why id is a kohler dis-courage!
Nut din 985 or din 980 metall lock or din 934 with palnut din 7967 or crownnut din 935 with lock pin
Thank you very much for sharing your experience. Wow, very thorough review!
I am three-(3) years late to the game; thus, I am in a learning curve about the Kohler starters. Our Cub Cadet XT1 LT-46 has the Kohler 7000 Series KT725-725cc 22HP engine and the starter's part number is 1999-1140051 32-098-08 January 1, 2017. We purchased our lawn tractor in July 2017 from Home Depot. On Saturday April 13, 2024 I discovered that our tractor would not start. After searching the internet, UA-cam and reading, I proceeded to perform a few tasks that were overdue that got neglected due to family health matters. I learned that our starter pinion gear-wheel has nine-(9) teeth, which I think you said is the 2nd generation? Does the 3rd Generation have nine-(9) teeth or ten-(10)-teeth? Your bulleted list has the 3rd bullet "9 tooth pinion down from 10"? You said the shaft was increase in diameter - Hmm, does that mean the starter was manufactured with cheap steel? Our starter's pinion gear sheared-off its shaft.
The past twelve-(12) days, I searched the internet, compared prices and brands on the online shopping platforms and shopped local brick and mortar shops to obtain price quotes and conversed with small landscaping business owners to gain information. I am having a difficult time in understanding the great price differences "for the alleged same product" from different stores and and different 3rd party sellers on different online stores.
Small Business in Lawn Mower Sales and Repair [Name A] - Can order both Kohler OEM [$142.50] and Aftermarket [$112.50] and have it available for pickup the next day - did not purchase because they do not have any return policy
Small Business in Lawn Mower Repair [Name B] - has a mix of used starters for $50.00 [take time to find it and test it] and he can order a new one from a contact in Pensacola $165.00
Small Business in Lawn Mower Repair [Name C] they can order Kohler OEM for 199.50
The Big Orange Box Store - has a variation of after-market starters that meet the Kohler Starter, but getting the military discount is too cumbersome because they contracted the program to a 3rd party and you have to submit military records e.g., DD-214 and other information: I am not ready to signup without having knowledge of the 3rd Party Company
Small Business Outdoor [Name Y] - they do not sell the Kohler Starter
On Thursday, April 18, 2024 -
Connected the Super Start battery and removed the hood, removed the air-filter and sprayed the Engine Starter Fluid and placed the air-filter back into the housing. Loosened the Choke/Throttle cable in attempt to tighten the cable tension, attempted to start the engine and it did not crank, removed and checked the 20-amp fuse that is in the battery cables - it looked good, removed the engine cover with a eight millimeter-(8-mm), attempted to remove the starter with 3/8-in socket and a 7/16-in socket, but learned the bolts require a ten millimeter-(10-mm) socket - borrowed correct socket size from neighbor, removed the starter and confirmed that it was broken because the gear-wheel sheared off from the rest of its housing.
On Wednesday, April 17, 2024 -
Removed the new Champion spark plugs due to learning that must be set at 0.030-in; retrieved the spark plug gauge tools and set both plugs to as close to the specification of 0.030-in as required from the Cub Cadet UA-cam Channel; Re-installed the Champion Spark Plugs, Poured the second one quart-(1-qt.) of SAE-30 oil into the engine dipstick cavity, Reconnected the battery cables and reattached the hood, Attempted to start the Cub Cadet XT1 LT-46 lawn tractor - it failed to start
Tuesday, April 16, 2024 -
Disconnected the Super Start battery in preparation to test if it is a good battery, retrieved my old Archer-Kit Volt-Ohm Multi-meter to test the battery - it tested good. Searched UA-cam and the internet for probable causes as to why the lawn tractor won't start and found a dozen reasons, Inventoried our Cub Cadet replacements parts and fluids; we need two-(2) quarts of SAE-30 engine oil and two-(2) spark plugs, Drained the engine oil and it was very dark; removed the spark plugs and IMHO learned that they need to be replaced with new spark plugs; Installed two-(2) new Champion Spark Plugs - later I learned that I may have torque them too tight and the spark plug gap needs to measure 0.030”, Installed one-(1) new air-filter, Installed one-(1) new oil-filter, poured one quart-(1qt.) of engine oil [need to add the second quart of engine oil tomorrow]
Monday, April 15, 2024
Removed the battery from the Cub Cadet battery - mystery label May 2018 ? Dad purchased the tractor July 2017
Visited O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store to verify if the battery could hold a charge - No
Purchased Super Start battery from O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store
Installed the battery and attempted to start, but the tractor failed to start
Disconnected the Super Start battery as precaution to prevent draining the battery
Saturday, April 13, 2024
Discovered that the lawn tractor would not start
$151 here amzn.to/3srYmhC on Amazon which is the OEM 10-S latest generation starter. Basically between your A and B option in terms of price. The newest gen starter has the 9 tooth gear, but the previous generation also has a 9 tooth gear but lacks the thicker shaft diameter. As I stated in the video, they upgraded the design but the shafts started breaking so then they had to upgrade it again. It's all very confusing and unfortunate for the consumer who has to deal with these issues. Good luck!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you for responding. After watching your video a couple of times, I went into the garage to look at the starter more closely. I tried to twist the nut off by hand, but I don't have enough hand-strength, so if I can remove the nut with a wrench then it must the second generation. If I cannot remove the nut it must be a 3rd generation with a weld? However, I don't understand how by removing one gear tooth adds more torque. I know the starter pinion gear has 9-teeth, what is the RPM of the starter? but that huge flywheel must have 200 teeth? What is the gear ratio? Argh!
Very informative, Thanks
Thanks for watching Gary!
According to my conversation with 2 other local shops and Kohler itself there is NO Automatic compression release. One gigantic headache can really manifest itself with these engines because they have hydraulic lifters and if one puts regular 30 weight oil in em the engine becomes hard to turn over. Folks need to use 5W30 oils in em... The SV710s and SV720 and 30s have no compression release.
The SV710-740 and SV810-840 do in fact have an automatic compression release. Both the engine owners manual and the engine service manual mention this. This is taken directly from the service manual: "These engines are equipped with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. It is difficult to obtain an accurate compression reading because of ACR mechanism. As an alternative, use cylinder leakdown test." Go to Kohlers website and download the product sheet for these engines, it literally says right on Kohler's website. Also, under trouble-shooting it says "hard to start - faulty ACR mechanism. I'll provide the link; www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/sm_32_690_01.pdf
Additionally, I've been running 10w40 in all Kohler and Kawasaki engines without issues. As soon as you turn the key, the oil pump transfers oil through the gallery's and pumps up the hydraulic lifters on engines that use them. A 5w or 10w oil really makes no difference in the summer time, only in winter weather in sub zero temperatures, which is when I would recommend a 5w oil. However, for the summer time, a 40 weight oil works best IMO because it's slightly heavier and helps prevents oil consumption. These engines need a minimum 370ca battery, and they need the latest 3rd generation starter. Additionally, if the ACR mechanism is malfunctioning, it will make any engine hard to start.
The courage doesn't have hydraulic lifters. I just adjusted the valves on a SV730 two days ago. Spec is .004-.006. And as stated above, it does have ACR, you can download a free pdf service manual, it's mentioned in there. The service manual also says 10w30, not 5w30 or 30w.
@@svtirefire According to the Kohler Bulletin I was sent by Kohler they say not.
I personally have never pulled apart a mower engine that does have hydraulic valves. That may happen if mine keeps acting up.
Unfortunately, this is one of those rare situations where you cannot trust the service manual at face value. The presence of the ACR depends on the engine spec and the vast majority of the SV Twins that were ever built do in fact NOT have an ACR, as Silverado stated. All Kohler twins after the Magnum series, regardless of model, use a camshaft mounted ACR IF they are ACR equipped. So if you want proof of which it is, lookup the camshafts. 32 010 05-S is one of the most common standard SV model camshafts (no ACR), as compared to a CV model ACR equipped camshaft 24 010 06-S. From a google image search you will quickly see the difference and see that the standard SV cam has no ACR mechanism on it.
Also, no hydraulic lifters on residential grade engines. SV's are standard tappets.
They could use a palnut to secure the nut
Yes, anything other than just a regular nut. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid, interesting. Do you see the same type of starter failure with other riding mowers? I have an older John Deere. 👍👍
Not too often, usually the gear gets shredded or the starter fails internally, and it's not worth my time to disassemble and repair the brushes and Bendix like it used to be. A good starter costs roughly $135-250 depending on make and model, and the swap itself doesn't take long at all.
Does the top bracket come off? My cub cadet doesn’t have that bracket
The starter mounts from the top
Keep it in mind, the part are made in China and It is already defective due to soft metal was produced at the factory.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the differences between the 3 starters, it’s a shame that you have to educate the representatives to market their products correctly… you sir are a national treasure! Thank you.
LOTS OF DIGGING ON THIS ONE.. Great job EP. VERY INTERESTING STUFF. .
Thanks for watching!
so is it safe to say that all the starters with a metal shell on the drive are gen 3 starters ?
Are these similar to the Kohler Command 16 series?
My old Kohler Command 16 series engine is very hard starting from warranty replacement. Could it be one of these starters?
Find and google the model number of your engine. These are only for the SV engines
@@EliminatorPerformance Unfortunately this was a warranty replacement. They replaced the Brigs engine with this kohler and there is no tag???
@@tonyrader7102 somewhere on the engine you should see a model number. You may have to remove some plastic cover
Very thankful thanks !!
Is this the one for the kt745 as well?
Google your model and spec number KT745-XXXX and type parts diagram after a d double check.
I had a 2nd gen with a lock nut and it failed also !
Get a 3rd gen and don't look back!
Is there an updated version for Kohler CV engines? Great videos.
Great Great vid!!!
Very useful! Thanks
This absolutely explains the hard cranking start up on my sv720 how much is the price on the third gen
i have a 3rd generation starter and the shaft broke this morning.
good information
Thanks for watching!
They should put a lock nut on it instead.
I just watched the video and I would like to know if I can get you to contact me back somehow another maybe on your channel on a 15 and a half horse Kohler Engine with overhead valves does it take the same starter
Does that include the sv720
Yes
Excellent!
Why weld the nut!? Why not just use a left hand thread?
Who knows lol "engineers"
@@EliminatorPerformance IKR! It’s not like its a new or innovative solution. Every brushcutter/ weedwacker on the planet has a left hand thread to stop the blade spinning off. Surely has to be more work to weld it - and stops you from being able to replace a worn pinion….duh.
The nut most certainly is not welded it is a crimped lock nut. Those 3 marks on the top are the crimps. Crimping deforms the threads to help lock the nut. If yours is welded then it wasn't kohler. I've never seen a kohler starter with the nut welded.
Should have a recall! On my 3rd starter in 150 hours! F**king Junk! Head gaskets at 110 hours! Never by another Kohler again!
Fantastic. Thorough. Clear. Thanks dude!
Very interesting
Does Kohler have a correct 3rd generation starter number that doesn't possibly give you a 2nd generation, or worse a 1st generation starter. Thanks everyone
The last number I show, which is the -10-S but the issue is, if you buy it online you don't know what you're getting unless you buy an OEM one or from the dealership
Thank you for the heads up. I did look online and can easily spot the difference. One because of the all metal end with welded nut, and secondly the price was double for the 3rd gen starter. But hey you only get whay you pay for. Again Thank you......@@EliminatorPerformance
Thank God for you, someone sent to explain these JUNK starters!
Great video-there are many types of Loctite and now that I realize I just ordered a gen II may have to use it! Stens should be ashamed they are going to sell 21 more crappy starters to 21 unsuspecting customers before (maybe, nobody knows) going to sell a legit gen III. Stens obviously worships short -term profit-not quality. Ironically quality increases long-term profits. Pathetic.
Well they're sold out of these now, so I'm assuming they either sold them all, or they just got rid of them and are waiting on the 3rd gen starters.
Thanks, a little late for me. I have a Ariens zero turn with these junk Kohler engines. Started having starting problems, Unfortunately got a replacement Gen 1 starter. Worked a season and then the same problem. Got a Gen 3 has been working fine. I wish there was a mfg. notice. The Kohler engineers most be dei hires from the Mentally Disabled School System.
Plastic bushing are a joke
Bronzen was std for 130 years
I tare down several and it’s a shame
Total junk is what all three are
Adding nut is other great fix
I recommend the china generation😅
What an absolute life-saving legend thank you