Thanks buddy. Your knowledge and experience has help me out with so many problems that I have ran into with my travel trailer. You have saved me alot of money by doing the repairs myself. I have watched alot of rv mechanics videos and you are definitely the best . I couldnt do it wirhout you. Thanks again. I will continue to watch and send your videos to other campers. 👍
Thanks so much for making this video. I could not find out where the sail switch was located on my 8531-IV DCLP furnace. Spent hours researching, watching videos etc. without success. One source said you had to remove the entire furnace to get to it. Your video was exactly what I need to find and replace it. Easy peasy. Furnace works again!!!
My old camper. Same Furnace. Thanks to our resident mouse a peace of peanut shell was hanging the sail switch. Thanks for your help. I removed the peanut shells and took the little peace from behind the sail switch. Put it all back together crossed my fingers and turned it on, poof on came the furnace. I'm a real live hero at least for a few minuts. Thank you for the video! Ron
You probably dont keep up with comments on this video anymore, but I have to say we are day 2 into a 2 week trip and were having problems...I took off the housing for the blower fan, and reconnected the power, and it blew out some debris, and then the furnace burner lit right up. Thanks for making this video, we have propane heat blowing again!
Another great video. My RV Works is my "go to" source for RV issues now. Thinking about just going through and "liking" all My RV Works videos. Ever notice how this guy always has bloody knuckles? I bet he never rests.
Thank you for this video. The furnace in my trailer is exactly the same model. Your video was easy to follow, and correct. My sail switch had lint debris on it. Cleaned , and reinstalled and we have heat again! I did this repair today, while camping. 10/29/20. Thank you!
Thanks for all the tips, I was able to fix my 8516-111 furnace simply by bending the flame sensor rod closer to the burner, no more intermittent heat. It hasn't worked properly for the last 24 years, Yahooo!
I have an 8520-IV that had the same error, however, the housing was fine. Disconnected the circuit board and reconnected and all is well. Thank you for the tip! Furnace is fired up!
thanks for the video. My camper through this code this morning. With the info in your video, I was able to get mine to work again. Going to bring up some canned air and clean out the squirrel cage and see if that will keep the switch from sticking. If it throws a fault again, I will order a new switch.
Poulsbo! My old viking town! My problem was a faulty sail switch connection, not a loose blower cover. Thanks for helping me figure out what to fix, thanks for the video!
Hello fellow camper owners. I just completed a long multi week hunting trip in Utah and Colorado in our 1995 Lance TT. Right off the bat I was experiencing some furnace problems with the Atwood Dometic Furnace. This was not good as we were heading to some high altitude and cold weather into the teens. The furnace would initiate the start sequence with the fan motor turning on and approximately 30-45 seconds it would not open the gas valve and would not start to warm up. It would shut down. I tinkered with it for a few hours. The code was an air flow code. I initially thought it was the sail switch so I wired around the sail switch to see if it fired. It did not. It was not the sail switch, in my works I discovered that the stainless exhaust port has to be fully shoved in and tightened down. With the intermittent problems I have had with our furnace over the past summer, the hold down screws for the outer cover were a bit loose, I used toothpicks to assist and hold the outside panel in place, easy fix but thought others could use this information. One of the problems that caused the intermittent operation was the fact that we tow a lot of roads and things come loose especially screws that have enlarged holes.
Thanks for the info. I do mention on some of my videos that the relationship between the sail switch and the Control Board needs to be such that the control board sees the sail switch changing states. So, if you bypass a sail switch, or wired always open or always closed, your furnace would not ignite because the control board never saw that change of states. Also on the AF series furnaces it is important to have that exhaust port installed as it is part of the entire furnace system. So glad you found that out as well. Stay warm and happy camping.
Love the videos and the way you explain everything i have to wait until the sun comes up and ill be trying to get my Atwood fixed . Your videos give me the confidence to try and figure out what is going on. Thank you
Thank you for this one. I had my entire unit out yesterday and damn if I could figure out where the sail switch is. My furnace fan is coming on but I am not getting ignition. Occasionally it will work but more often than not, it isn't. I have always suspected the sail switch but could never find anything that would show me how to get to it. Hopefully it is a lint problem. I was ready to replace the control board and the gas valve. Will see if this fixes things. Kudos!
Thank you. I have a 40 ft class a with 2 of these same heaters . I have to get them working for winter coming fast . They were working last year when I got RV . I will check snail switch and follow up . Thank you for the tips and info
I have the same model number furnace, but my control board doesn't have those two wires you didn't disconnect, and I have a circuit breaker and blower motor relay attached to the housing along with the power switch... 🤔
Just purchased a used travel trailer with this furnace and haven't had a chance to test it yet. Unfortunately ours does not have an external door so may have to detach it inside and have a look at it.
Thank you for your videos. They are a great help when you cannot afford unlimited repair bills. Have an Atwood 8531- IV. We woke up one night to a rattling noise coming from the furnace and then the furnace stopped working. I thought something may have broken or mud dabber nest broke free. Opened but saw no debris. Circuit board is indicating air flow problem. Checked the Sail Switch. No debris. Closed it and checked continuity-good. Fan and fan cage seem fine. No rattles. Not broken. I heard in this case the limit switch is rarely the problem. What other options should I consider? Thank you for your help.
Hi there, thanks for your video. in my case the sail switch is clean and the furnace is lightning, hot air coming out the exhaust but only blowing cold air inside... any ideas on what that could be?
My RV is only 2 years old and I have a single blink. I’ve blown everything with a air compressor and still same single blink. Could that white piece that the sale switch hits be to tough all of a sudden ? Should I spray it ? Obviously let it dry before turning back on.
Just found your channel. I have been watching your furnace video's trying to learn how they work. I have a Atwood 8531-IV--DCLP is the sail switch in the same location as the one you are working on in this video? Thanks
We are having the same issue with our furnace, but I i don't even hear the fan turning on to attempt flow before the air flow red light comes on. Did you sweet it great any sign of it turning on before the warning light?
I have been having sporadic heater problems with my 2019 Coachmen Freelander 32 FS. I had removed the sail switch and checked it with my ohm meter several times. It always checked good. After watching this video, I realized it must be my sail switch, but how can that be ??? I looked at the little bracket that holds the sail switch and then tried to see if it would work and it did as long as i pressed on it. The pressure I was putting on the switch was more than what the blower would exert on it I surmised. So, when I tried to do it with little pressure, it wouldn't come on. The "sail" was hitting the bracket !!! So I filed about 1/16" off the side of the bracket where the sail was hitting and WALA, works fine now. I think this is a design flaw by Dometic. Just my opinion. Could not have solved this without fulling understanding the problem spelled out by the video. Thanks, sorry this was so long but felt it needed to be said to help others that can't figure out why this would happen.
I have a question i have exact same furnace runs great no issues fan turns on furnace runs for about 5 min then flame shuts down for about 2 min can stays going then kicks back the flame again is that normal to cycle flame im not familliar with these thank you
So mine did the same thing. I tapped and rapped on the fan housing, hit the reset on off switch and it started working. Mine is a new design with the control board in the middle vs the left. So do you think something got lodged in there preventinhg the switch from activating. I'm afraid that it will happen again. Do these switches fail? Update: From watching so more videos mine is newer with the sail switch available from the outside by removing a couple of screws unlike the older way that required removing half of the fan housing. Mine was covered in lint preventing the switch from activating. I Ohmed out and the switch is good.
In my RV the airflow is strong in both bedrooms, but in the middle where the kitchen and slideout are located it is weak. Is this normal? And this is the one closest to the machine
My furnace comes on but is blowing cold air . This is my first winter in my camper. Praying for something simple. What's making it blow cold air ? Was working perfectly until today . Thank you !!
Hello Darren I have an Atwood 8535-111 after watching your many great videos I pulled the burner head out and it was rotted out Every one is saying that burner heads for this furnace are no longer available And after many hours searching found some similar but as you said they are different similar but not same mesh hole size! Do you have any burners for this model or what would you recommend ??
Did you replace the blower housing that was broken? If so where did you find a replacement? Mine is broken also and I"m having a hard time finding a new housing.
I have the same furnace and have the same blinking light warning, I took off the cover and the fan is really clean, is it possible that the switch is bad? Could it be a thermostat issue? Or is there something else that would throw that same warning light? I really appreciate your videos! This is my wife and i first travel trailer and we are having to fix somethings and I’ve found all your videos to be helpful!
On a furnace, a relay is used to start the blower motor. Some of the older furnaces will have a small Ice Cube shaped relay with four wires coming out of it that is mounted to the right of the blower housing. Others will have that relay on a control board.
Hey body, I never own a trailer before but just bought a 2005 22’ Jayco from a cousin last month. I just notice that the heat wasn’t hot. The furnace turns on but shut off after about a minute. Do I need to open the propane tank before I turn on the furnace? Or is it something else? I have an Atwood furnace as well. I subscribed to ur channel. Great vdo and info. Thanks
So you will need to turn the propane on first yes. Then actually get it to the furnace. I usually put a lighter to the stove until it ignites to get the propane through the line as much as possible. Whats happening to yours is its turning on like normal, not igniting the gas because its not there, and then as a safety its shutting back down.
My furnace kicks on and runs but does not fire. It will not shut off after 15 seconds either. Fan will run and run until I turn it off but will not ignite. Gotta check sail switch 8355-11 hydro flame
Hi rv works my rv furnace works fine but the blower stopped working it once blew nice heat out before I hear the click from the thermostat but doesn’t engage now
The low-hanging fruit would be to check for a blown fuse. But I'm sure you've already done that. We're working on uploading a video where we're diagnosing the fan motor itself. That one should be coming out in the next week or so.
I am having the same issue with my Suburban SF-30 furnace. Replaced the circuit board thinking that was the issue. Problem still there. Fan starts, no ignitor clicking sounds, furnace shuts down. I checked the sail switch. I appears to be functioning. I will bypass the switch to see maybe it is actually bad, then I am clueless.
Everything works on mine but it's blowing cool/warm air .. no lights but the exhaust isn't hot enough I can cover it up with my hand same with the furnace I can touch it
Mine blows and blows but doesnt get hot the sail switch is clean and i cleaned everything but it still wont get hot it just blows clod air until i turn it off so whats that? It looks just like this one not dirty at all
It sounds like you are not getting ignition. So if you're not getting ignition you need to follow the control wiring circuit, I refer to those as the blue circuit. If you have multimeter make sure you're getting 12 volts back into the control board after it's made these stops through the sail switch, high temperature switch.
@@MyRVWorks got it going but i can smell burning smell inside i cleaned put the dirt it blew out, i have 2 carbon monoxide detectors so hopefully its not that but it smells burned is that normal? Its a 1995 holiday rambler Alumilite heat has not been turned on in probably 8-10 years
I have an Atwood furnace model number 8940 111 dclp in my fifth wheel furnace will not come on when you turn it on hear clicking in the front air conditioner
The circuit board has one flashing light check the motor the motor has work on a 12-voltI've checked all fuses all fuses are good have unplugged circuit board plugged it back still doing the same thing I don't know how to check the sail switch have a small clicking noise after I reset it then light blinks
It might be the relay which is on the circut board. In that case but a replacement. It could also be a sail or high limit switch. Sail switch is easy to replace but limit switch is more difficult.
BEEN SEARCHING FOR A PERSON LIKE YOU THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING. I HAVE NOT WOOD FURNACE IN MY RV BUT I'M GOING THROUGH A TANK OF FUEL IN 27 HOURS BARBECUE SIZE GRILL I SHOULD SAY 20 POUNDER. BUT I'M A DISABLED VET AND CAN'T HARDLY AFFORD THAT COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY FURNACE.
A 20 pound tank of propane doesn't go very far when it's cold out in a poorly-insulated camper (thin walls, single pane windows, aluminum trim). Your furnace is probably fine. I go through around ten 100lb tanks per year, which would be 50 20lb tanks IF they were filled to capacity. The exchange tanks (where you exchange your empty tank for a full one) are underfilled so will last even less time.
Customer did not want to invest in a new blower housing so I wedged some foam between the service door and the blower cover to keep it in place. Unit is stationary so did not need to consider road conditions. After about a year still working! Had to go with what the customer was willing to spend vs. making the 'correct' repair. BTW: same customer, different RV, as the water heater job that was dying from (blue) rust flakes. ua-cam.com/video/EsjiDo7FN_Q/v-deo.html
my problem is that it works well for 20 seconds it goes off it turns on again like 20 seconds it turns on again it repeats like 5 times and stays off or starts working fine.
Thanks buddy. Your knowledge and experience has help me out with so many problems that I have ran into with my travel trailer. You have saved me alot of money by doing the repairs myself. I have watched alot of rv mechanics videos and you are definitely the best . I couldnt do it wirhout you. Thanks again. I will continue to watch and send your videos to other campers. 👍
Thanks so much for making this video. I could not find out where the sail switch was located on my 8531-IV DCLP furnace. Spent hours researching, watching videos etc. without success. One source said you had to remove the entire furnace to get to it. Your video was exactly what I need to find and replace it. Easy peasy. Furnace works again!!!
First video that explained the flashing light error. Also showed the sail switch location and disassembly. Well done. 👍
My old camper. Same Furnace. Thanks to our resident mouse a peace of peanut shell was hanging the sail switch. Thanks for your help. I removed the peanut shells and took the little peace from behind the sail switch. Put it all back together crossed my fingers and turned it on, poof on came the furnace. I'm a real live hero at least for a few minuts. Thank you for the video! Ron
You probably dont keep up with comments on this video anymore, but I have to say we are day 2 into a 2 week trip and were having problems...I took off the housing for the blower fan, and reconnected the power, and it blew out some debris, and then the furnace burner lit right up. Thanks for making this video, we have propane heat blowing again!
It’s 1:30am and you just saved my family. Thank you sir! You are a gentleman!
Another great video. My RV Works is my "go to" source for RV issues now. Thinking about just going through and "liking" all My RV Works videos.
Ever notice how this guy always has bloody knuckles? I bet he never rests.
Thank you for this video. The furnace in my trailer is exactly the same model. Your video was easy to follow, and correct. My sail switch had lint debris on it. Cleaned , and reinstalled and we have heat again! I did this repair today, while camping. 10/29/20. Thank you!
Thanks for all the tips, I was able to fix my 8516-111 furnace simply by bending the flame sensor rod closer to the burner, no more intermittent heat. It hasn't worked properly for the last 24 years, Yahooo!
I have an 8520-IV that had the same error, however, the housing was fine. Disconnected the circuit board and reconnected and all is well. Thank you for the tip! Furnace is fired up!
Thank you. Fixed my problem watching this. Simple switch kept me cold all night
I just fixed my Atwood 8525 IV with the help of your video! Thank You!
thanks for the video. My camper through this code this morning. With the info in your video, I was able to get mine to work again. Going to bring up some canned air and clean out the squirrel cage and see if that will keep the switch from sticking. If it throws a fault again, I will order a new switch.
Poulsbo! My old viking town! My problem was a faulty sail switch connection, not a loose blower cover. Thanks for helping me figure out what to fix, thanks for the video!
Hello fellow camper owners. I just completed a long multi week hunting trip in Utah and Colorado in our 1995 Lance TT. Right off the bat I was experiencing some furnace problems with the Atwood Dometic Furnace. This was not good as we were heading to some high altitude and cold weather into the teens. The furnace would initiate the start sequence with the fan motor turning on and approximately 30-45 seconds it would not open the gas valve and would not start to warm up. It would shut down. I tinkered with it for a few hours. The code was an air flow code. I initially thought it was the sail switch so I wired around the sail switch to see if it fired. It did not. It was not the sail switch, in my works I discovered that the stainless exhaust port has to be fully shoved in and tightened down. With the intermittent problems I have had with our furnace over the past summer, the hold down screws for the outer cover were a bit loose, I used toothpicks to assist and hold the outside panel in place, easy fix but thought others could use this information. One of the problems that caused the intermittent operation was the fact that we tow a lot of roads and things come loose especially screws that have enlarged holes.
Thanks for the info. I do mention on some of my videos that the relationship between the sail switch and the Control Board needs to be such that the control board sees the sail switch changing states. So, if you bypass a sail switch, or wired always open or always closed, your furnace would not ignite because the control board never saw that change of states. Also on the AF series furnaces it is important to have that exhaust port installed as it is part of the entire furnace system. So glad you found that out as well. Stay warm and happy camping.
Love the videos and the way you explain everything i have to wait until the sun comes up and ill be trying to get my Atwood fixed . Your videos give me the confidence to try and figure out what is going on. Thank you
Thank you for this one. I had my entire unit out yesterday and damn if I could figure out where the sail switch is. My furnace fan is coming on but I am not getting ignition. Occasionally it will work but more often than not, it isn't. I have always suspected the sail switch but could never find anything that would show me how to get to it. Hopefully it is a lint problem. I was ready to replace the control board and the gas valve. Will see if this fixes things. Kudos!
We had a power surge. Our AC was running. NOW the furnace blower has come on and is staying on. This will give us a place to start.
Thank you!! Have the same unit. Would hear it ignite than shut off. The sail switch was completely clogged with dog hair and dust.
“Yeah! My favorite RV Tech!….call the paparazzi…et cetera”
Great video thanks. I’m learning how to do some of my on work because of your videos.
Thanks for watching. I have many more in the pipeline. Glad to help.
Mine is doing the same thing, thank you. I will check mine out tomorrow when the weather is a bit warmer
Thank you. I have a 40 ft class a with 2 of these same heaters . I have to get them working for winter coming fast . They were working last year when I got RV . I will check snail switch and follow up . Thank you for the tips and info
Dude is very helpful I love ur videos man thank u
I have the same model number furnace, but my control board doesn't have those two wires you didn't disconnect, and I have a circuit breaker and blower motor relay attached to the housing along with the power switch... 🤔
My favorite RV Tech, Thank you sir.
Thanks so much for the help 😊 got my heater going again 👍🏽
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching. Have a camping.
Just purchased a used travel trailer with this furnace and haven't had a chance to test it yet. Unfortunately ours does not have an external door so may have to detach it inside and have a look at it.
Excellent explanation and visual👍
Thanks..couldn't figure out where the switch was.Thought it was on the outside of the blower.
What about providing a link to a heat recovery box for all the wasted heat from the exhaust?
Thank you for your videos. They are a great help when you cannot afford unlimited repair bills. Have an Atwood 8531- IV. We woke up one night to a rattling noise coming from the furnace and then the furnace stopped working. I thought something may have broken or mud dabber nest broke free. Opened but saw no debris. Circuit board is indicating air flow problem. Checked the Sail Switch. No debris. Closed it and checked continuity-good. Fan and fan cage seem fine. No rattles. Not broken. I heard in this case the limit switch is rarely the problem. What other options should I consider? Thank you for your help.
just loosen the wing nut as the circuit board backing plate is slotted 2:45
Hi there, thanks for your video. in my case the sail switch is clean and the furnace is lightning, hot air coming out the exhaust but only blowing cold air inside... any ideas on what that could be?
Yeeeah.. youve probably saved my winter warming air-flowsin this Fuc'&%#$!' Cheap RV by showing me this amazing videos.. So thanks Zeus!!
Do you have a video of PMing the Atwood furnace. . . that one was sure dirty!!
My RV is only 2 years old and I have a single blink. I’ve blown everything with a air compressor and still same single blink. Could that white piece that the sale switch hits be to tough all of a sudden ? Should I spray it ? Obviously let it dry before turning back on.
Just found your channel.
I have been watching your furnace video's trying to learn how they work.
I have a Atwood 8531-IV--DCLP is the sail switch in the same location as the one you are working on in this video?
Thanks
did you find your sail switch? i have the same model # and want to know as well!
We are having the same issue with our furnace, but I i don't even hear the fan turning on to attempt flow before the air flow red light comes on. Did you sweet it great any sign of it turning on before the warning light?
I have been having sporadic heater problems with my 2019 Coachmen Freelander 32 FS. I had removed the sail switch and checked it with my ohm meter several times.
It always checked good. After watching this video, I realized it must be my sail switch, but how can that be ??? I looked at the little bracket that holds the sail switch and
then tried to see if it would work and it did as long as i pressed on it. The pressure I was putting on the switch was more than what the blower would exert on it I surmised.
So, when I tried to do it with little pressure, it wouldn't come on. The "sail" was hitting the bracket !!! So I filed about 1/16" off the side of the bracket where the sail was hitting
and WALA, works fine now. I think this is a design flaw by Dometic. Just my opinion. Could not have solved this without fulling understanding the problem spelled out by the
video. Thanks, sorry this was so long but felt it needed to be said to help others that can't figure out why this would happen.
Where would the high limit switch be on this model number furnace? I already changed sail switch and still happening cover was tight.
Nice catch Darren!
Thanks Daniel. Never know what I will run into out here... LOL.
I have a question i have exact same furnace runs great no issues fan turns on furnace runs for about 5 min then flame shuts down for about 2 min can stays going then kicks back the flame again is that normal to cycle flame im not familliar with these thank you
So mine did the same thing. I tapped and rapped on the fan housing, hit the reset on off switch and it started working. Mine is a new design with the control board in the middle vs the left. So do you think something got lodged in there preventinhg the switch from activating. I'm afraid that it will happen again. Do these switches fail? Update: From watching so more videos mine is newer with the sail switch available from the outside by removing a couple of screws unlike the older way that required removing half of the fan housing. Mine was covered in lint preventing the switch from activating. I Ohmed out and the switch is good.
What does it mean if your furnace only lights when covering port then shortly after shits off. Getting gas and spark lights only when covering port
In my RV the airflow is strong in both bedrooms, but in the middle where the kitchen and slideout are located it is weak. Is this normal? And this is the one closest to the machine
Darren! Good video. I have a Atwood 8525 as well. But I’m getting a 3 blink code. Ignition error, I think? Any thoughts?
My furnace comes on but is blowing cold air . This is my first winter in my camper. Praying for something simple. What's making it blow cold air ? Was working perfectly until today . Thank you !!
Did you figure out what was wrong?
Please tell me where I can buy that plastic part that dry rotted?
Thank you your videos are very very helpful
Thank you. Lots more on the way!!!
Hello Darren
I have an Atwood 8535-111 after watching your many great videos
I pulled the burner head out and it was rotted out
Every one is saying that burner heads for this furnace are no longer available
And after many hours searching found some similar but as you said they are different similar but not same mesh hole size!
Do you have any burners for this model or what would you recommend ??
Did you replace the blower housing that was broken? If so where did you find a replacement? Mine is broken also and I"m having a hard time finding a new housing.
I have a 8525- ll blower Motor I need to replace do you have a video that shows how to fix it
Good job darren
I have the same furnace and have the same blinking light warning, I took off the cover and the fan is really clean, is it possible that the switch is bad? Could it be a thermostat issue? Or is there something else that would throw that same warning light? I really appreciate your videos! This is my wife and i first travel trailer and we are having to fix somethings and I’ve found all your videos to be helpful!
What if it is the high limit switch? Do I have to take the furnace out to repair that part?
How do you find a relay switch? Our trailer is 30 yrs old and was told that needed to be replaced...faculty.
On a furnace, a relay is used to start the blower motor. Some of the older furnaces will have a small Ice Cube shaped relay with four wires coming out of it that is mounted to the right of the blower housing. Others will have that relay on a control board.
So if I switch it to furance it should automatically come on
Hey body, I never own a trailer before but just bought a 2005 22’ Jayco from a cousin last month. I just notice that the heat wasn’t hot. The furnace turns on but shut off after about a minute. Do I need to open the propane tank before I turn on the furnace? Or is it something else? I have an Atwood furnace as well. I subscribed to ur channel. Great vdo and info. Thanks
So you will need to turn the propane on first yes. Then actually get it to the furnace. I usually put a lighter to the stove until it ignites to get the propane through the line as much as possible. Whats happening to yours is its turning on like normal, not igniting the gas because its not there, and then as a safety its shutting back down.
I'm getting the same light but my fan is not even coming on at all. Any idea?
My furnace kicks on and runs but does not fire. It will not shut off after 15 seconds either. Fan will run and run until I turn it off but will not ignite. Gotta check sail switch 8355-11 hydro flame
Hi rv works my rv furnace works fine but the blower stopped working it once blew nice heat out before I hear the click from the thermostat but doesn’t engage now
The low-hanging fruit would be to check for a blown fuse. But I'm sure you've already done that. We're working on uploading a video where we're diagnosing the fan motor itself. That one should be coming out in the next week or so.
I am having the same issue with my Suburban SF-30 furnace. Replaced the circuit board thinking that was the issue. Problem still there. Fan starts, no ignitor clicking sounds, furnace shuts down. I checked the sail switch. I appears to be functioning. I will bypass the switch to see maybe it is actually bad, then I am clueless.
I the sail switch has to make a transition. A constant close doesn't provide a change that happens from the fan moving air.
great video, thank you!
Love it!
Everything works on mine but it's blowing cool/warm air .. no lights but the exhaust isn't hot enough I can cover it up with my hand same with the furnace I can touch it
Saved my arse thnx 🤙
Mine blows and blows but doesnt get hot the sail switch is clean and i cleaned everything but it still wont get hot it just blows clod air until i turn it off so whats that? It looks just like this one not dirty at all
It sounds like you are not getting ignition. So if you're not getting ignition you need to follow the control wiring circuit, I refer to those as the blue circuit. If you have multimeter make sure you're getting 12 volts back into the control board after it's made these stops through the sail switch, high temperature switch.
@@MyRVWorks got it going but i can smell burning smell inside i cleaned put the dirt it blew out, i have 2 carbon monoxide detectors so hopefully its not that but it smells burned is that normal? Its a 1995 holiday rambler Alumilite heat has not been turned on in probably 8-10 years
if my camper is plugged into power do I still need batteries to run the Furnace?
No.
@@handygent45 thank you!Keep up the good work ,you help so many people looking for answers
I have an Atwood furnace model number 8940 111 dclp in my fifth wheel furnace will not come on when you turn it on hear clicking in the front air conditioner
The circuit board has one flashing light check the motor the motor has work on a 12-voltI've checked all fuses all fuses are good have unplugged circuit board plugged it back still doing the same thing I don't know how to check the sail switch have a small clicking noise after I reset it then light blinks
It might be the relay which is on the circut board. In that case but a replacement. It could also be a sail or high limit switch. Sail switch is easy to replace but limit switch is more difficult.
BEEN SEARCHING FOR A PERSON LIKE YOU THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING. I HAVE NOT WOOD FURNACE IN MY RV BUT I'M GOING THROUGH A TANK OF FUEL IN 27 HOURS BARBECUE SIZE GRILL I SHOULD SAY 20 POUNDER. BUT I'M A DISABLED VET AND CAN'T HARDLY AFFORD THAT COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY FURNACE.
A 20 pound tank of propane doesn't go very far when it's cold out in a poorly-insulated camper (thin walls, single pane windows, aluminum trim). Your furnace is probably fine. I go through around ten 100lb tanks per year, which would be 50 20lb tanks IF they were filled to capacity. The exchange tanks (where you exchange your empty tank for a full one) are underfilled so will last even less time.
How can I email a question
Info@myrvworks.com
Do you have a wiring colored you can send me as my kid took it apart with out any photos .Do you have anything you can send me ?
What did you end up doing here long term?
Customer did not want to invest in a new blower housing so I wedged some foam between the service door and the blower cover to keep it in place. Unit is stationary so did not need to consider road conditions. After about a year still working! Had to go with what the customer was willing to spend vs. making the 'correct' repair. BTW: same customer, different RV, as the water heater job that was dying from (blue) rust flakes. ua-cam.com/video/EsjiDo7FN_Q/v-deo.html
I have the 8525-11 model and the plastic cover is made better. Older is better.
Nice job god bless
my problem is that it works well for 20 seconds it goes off it turns on again like 20 seconds it turns on again it repeats like 5 times and stays off or starts working fine.
yeah!!! can i get your autograph!?
"That was exciting".......LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah
Me pueden traducir