Here is a review of the Freeform Pico. It also features a behind the scenes look at my casting process for making jewelry. More jewelry at www.SterlingKi... Music: / nicholas-damario
I found that kiln curing certain resins helped to create better castings with less breakaway and ash residue. Specifically Asiga's SuperCast v3 and B9 Emerald. The pieces are first cured under UV light in the normal manner. They are then submerged in mineral oil and placed in a kiln at 300 degrees for an hour.
That is very helpful thank you so much. I have been experiencing issues with ash and have yet to get a clean cast. Where did you learn about this technique?
Sorry about all the questions I'm sure you have better things to do, I've tried so many times to cast resin with little success and I'm starting to get desperate
@@lukewessels9641 you'll see at 5:05 of the video that I'm adding sprue wax to the pieces that lead to the flask base. These will burn out leaving a vent that leads to the piece. An hour before casting I remove the flask from the kiln and put the hose end of a vacuum pump against those vents to suck out ash reside. The flask is then placed back into the kiln until it's time to cast. What resin are you using?
Hello Friend! Tell me please, the polymer SuperWax as in the instructions, melts at 50C? Can you make a video on this topic? You are using SuperWax polymer?
Hello Maxim, The instructions for SuperWax says to set the Pico heater to 35c to keep the solution melted in the tray. If you are melting it in the bottle to pour into the tray, then they say to use hot water or a kiln at 60c. I'll do a review of the material in the near future.
I've tried a few different resins and they each have their own advantages and disadvantages. SuperCast v3 by asiga is probably my favorite because its reliable and when properly cured can cast difficult pieces like class rings without lettering defects. I do have to apply vents to help with removing ash residue but a longer burnout cycle might help with this. Asiga's SuperWax is a little too fragile and needs to be kept warm to stay liquid which is too inconvenient for me. It does however burn out just like wax. B9's Emerald Resin has a great price point and burns out very clean, but I have trouble with class ring type details when it comes to casting and I still haven't narrowed down any reliable printer settings for consistently good prints. It also needs to be stirred if it sits for a while, for example between every print job. A lot of people swear by it but I haven't had as much success yet.
Hi Nicolas, excelent video, after you print the model, you clean it with alcohol isopropiloc and then you cure in a bowl with heat water , thats right? Wich temperature and how much time you cure the pieces in the bowl? Thanks so much leonel
Hi Leonel. For SuperCast resin I submerge the piece in mineral oil and place them in a kiln at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for 1 hour. I've started using Emerald resin and for that I submerge the pieces in water and place in a microwave for 3 minuets. I do this three times, letting it cool for about 10 minuets between each cycle.
Hi Khajak, this is my burnout schedual: 300 1h 900 1h 1382 2h (After one hour I flip my flasks button side up) 990 1h then cast for silver or 1100 for light/filigree.
Hello bro I like your videos By the way I have a big amulet I want you to make it smaller like ring for finger,can you do it for me just charge me how much
Look at all of those supports! Can't have any detail there that a lot of modern rings demand. I'll stick to My printer that uses no supports whatsoever.
Wax printer like solidscape? I hear 3dsystems uses similar technology. Really good for details you don’t want to interfere with supports but damn those printers are expensive yet alone the consumables is support material and wax.
Mr. Sterling Thanks man for your posts...
Thanks for watching!
you mentioned further curing the resin in your kiln before casting. could you please elaborate?
Thank you
I found that kiln curing certain resins helped to create better castings with less breakaway and ash residue. Specifically Asiga's SuperCast v3 and B9 Emerald. The pieces are first cured under UV light in the normal manner. They are then submerged in mineral oil and placed in a kiln at 300 degrees for an hour.
That is very helpful thank you so much. I have been experiencing issues with ash and have yet to get a clean cast. Where did you learn about this technique?
Sorry about all the questions I'm sure you have better things to do, I've tried so many times to cast resin with little success and I'm starting to get desperate
1 last question, you mention vacuming out the resin during your burnout is this referring to a vented kiln?
@@lukewessels9641 you'll see at 5:05 of the video that I'm adding sprue wax to the pieces that lead to the flask base. These will burn out leaving a vent that leads to the piece. An hour before casting I remove the flask from the kiln and put the hose end of a vacuum pump against those vents to suck out ash reside. The flask is then placed back into the kiln until it's time to cast. What resin are you using?
I need to know about finishing steps after casting.
Hello Friend! Tell me please, the polymer SuperWax as in the instructions, melts at 50C? Can you make a video on this topic? You are using SuperWax polymer?
Hello Maxim, The instructions for SuperWax says to set the Pico heater to 35c to keep the solution melted in the tray. If you are melting it in the bottle to pour into the tray, then they say to use hot water or a kiln at 60c. I'll do a review of the material in the near future.
What is your favorite DLP for casting? I do lost wax casting. Im ready to start 3D printing. I really enjoy your videos! Thanks!
I've tried a few different resins and they each have their own advantages and disadvantages. SuperCast v3 by asiga is probably my favorite because its reliable and when properly cured can cast difficult pieces like class rings without lettering defects. I do have to apply vents to help with removing ash residue but a longer burnout cycle might help with this. Asiga's SuperWax is a little too fragile and needs to be kept warm to stay liquid which is too inconvenient for me. It does however burn out just like wax. B9's Emerald Resin has a great price point and burns out very clean, but I have trouble with class ring type details when it comes to casting and I still haven't narrowed down any reliable printer settings for consistently good prints. It also needs to be stirred if it sits for a while, for example between every print job. A lot of people swear by it but I haven't had as much success yet.
Hi Nicolas, excelent video, after you print the model, you clean it with alcohol isopropiloc and then you cure in a bowl with heat water , thats right? Wich temperature and how much time you cure the pieces in the bowl? Thanks so much leonel
Hi Leonel. For SuperCast resin I submerge the piece in mineral oil and place them in a kiln at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for 1 hour. I've started using Emerald resin and for that I submerge the pieces in water and place in a microwave for 3 minuets. I do this three times, letting it cool for about 10 minuets between each cycle.
@@SterlingKisses thank you nicolas, only one question more, when you do this before putting in UV light and how much time you leave it there ?
I do UV light first. 10 min on each side.
Hello
It's a great job, can you tell the burn out cycle please, since i tried many different types.
thank you
Hi Khajak, this is my burnout schedual:
300 1h
900 1h
1382 2h (After one hour I flip my flasks button side up)
990 1h then cast for silver or 1100 for light/filigree.
What 3d modeling program do you use in your pc?
I use 3ds max
What os the value of the machine?
Hello bro I like your videos
By the way I have a big amulet
I want you to make it smaller like ring for finger,can you do it for me just charge me how much
i like the ring design.
Look at all of those supports! Can't have any detail there that a lot of modern rings demand. I'll stick to My printer that uses no supports whatsoever.
Wax printer like solidscape? I hear 3dsystems uses similar technology. Really good for details you don’t want to interfere with supports but damn those printers are expensive yet alone the consumables is support material and wax.
it's not dlp?
Thank you
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That mega man is hot
What is the price