Silica doesn’t affect the root zone. It helps build cellular walls and makes bigger stalks, helps with the uptake of nutrients and it also helps prevent stress and can even help with pest resistance. ✌️
You know i forgot to mentiont that part about the stalks and am FAR less scientfic in my explination, but a few books i read mentioned that silica actually does what i mentioned as well providing protection of the root zones as well. All i know is i saw better results with it so i kept it in the lineup. thank you for commenting!
Gritty Grower you got it my guy. I’m not trying to be critical in any way, just trying to be helpful. You definitely know what you’re doing and it’s good to see a nutrient video that doesn’t have 42 bottles of additives and supplements. We’re growing specifically for a plant that has a very short lifecycle and a lot of people are using so many products that can’t even be used in the short amount of time we have to grow these plants. I could absolutely pull off a great grow with what you have in this video and nothing else. I could honestly drop the Great White and the molasses and not notice much difference. Also you can actually get some of the best results just using the micro and bloom alone from a 3 part formula, leaving out the grow. I don’t use any grow in a 3 part after the third week of veg because its just more nitrogen than the plants can use and instead use Cal-Mag @5ml Micro @8ml Bloom @9mil kelp, enzymes, and a sweetener (raw) all between 2-5ml for a ppm of around 750 pH @5.8-6.0. I use bloom additive twice, first @2 weeks and again @4 weeks, or as close to the halfway point depending on the strain. I stop using the silica 2-3 weeks into flower and I drop the cal-mag as well. From the halfway point I lower the micro to 5ml and raise the bloom to 12ml for a week or two depending on the plants and then I use kelp, sugars and enzymes until the flush. That’s just a basic and simple regime but it requires some tweaking or possibly something else if an issue occurs, but in almost 25 years I’ve learned that the less you use the fewer problems you tend to have and it’s much easier to narrow down your problems when you’re using fewer products. It really doesn’t matter what line you use as long as you know what you’re using and why, and you stay ahead of your plants instead of “chasing” them trying to correct problems that should have been prevented. Less is usually more when it comes to all of the products available for a plant that’s actually fairly easy to grow. And with synthetic nutrients especially. 2000ppm isn’t twice as good for the plants as 1000ppm and pushing them that hard is actually stressing them and they will lockup and actually stop nutrient uptake all together. Also letting the plants dry out is a key factor in not only allowing oxygen to get to the roots but also in the ppm of the nutrients in the soil. If you check your ppm with a soil probe when your medium is dry you will see that it’s much higher than what you’re actually feeding it versus when it’s moist. That’s why you can burn your plants more easily when they’re really dry. I water feed water now when I used to feed feed water and even though I’m using less nutrients I’m getting faster growth and higher yields. But I always let them dry out, not to the point of wilting or stress, but enough for the entire root zone to get oxygen. Also checking your runoff for ppm/EC and pH is very important for seeing where you really are and for preventing problems before you can see them. And whatever system, nutrients, and regimen you’re using people..ALWAYS FLUSH lol. Seriously it’s crazy to me how many people don’t truly understand how to flush. If your runoff is higher than the clean water you’re pouring in, then all those extra ppm’s of whatever is ending up in your final product. Starting the flush when the pistils are still mostly white is ideal. You don’t want to be harvesting beautiful green plants, they should look like they’re dying and the only thing pretty should be the flowers. ✌️
@@ethanlancaster76 awesome info brother, you just helped me figure out what I've been doing wrong and how I need to get back to what was working before and also you are completely correct abt using so many nutes, fewer is always better. I really appreciate you sharing your wisdom and I hope to hear more from you in the future...
Confusing a lot of people .that great white doesn’t need any starch. You can just sprinkle it into the root zone , or into your reservoir. You don’t need to add it to anything in order for it to work.
Though I use some of the stuff you use and some different, I concur with your recipes. In place of Great White I use Recharge (mycorrhizal fungi) . In place of Superthrive I use Sea-Com (from Jonny's Selected Seeds). I too use Armor-si and molasses. For main nutes I use the Flora trio (Flora Micro - Flora Bloom - Flora Grow from General Hydroponics). We differ only in the ppm count. My water is run through an RO filter and comes out at 10ppm, very pure. For full strength, grow or bloom I end up with between 1100 to 1300ppm for a deep water culture set up. I would use less if I grew in medium. Nice presentation.
@@tyler238 doesnt ph shock, to high of ph or to high ec will cause nutrient lockout, you should also feed silica by itself on off days, let sit for 2 hours before adding to plants, silica made from potassium isnt immediately soluble
Hey Gritty Grower, got a quick lil question for you, are these autoflowers or photoperiods? Also what are your thoughts on Fox farms nutes? Asking because I'm currently doing 2 autos in soil on ff but dont know exactly what I am getting myself into here. I'm at 3 weeks today.
I myself never grew autos, but a friend did grow frisian due and got a good yield from it. quality was decent and def worked. Honestly, I'd check on autoflowering reviews on how they grew it. it seems once it starts the "flowering" phase you switch to bloom nutes. and i would use great white or anything else youd use during a regular grow easily.
Hey if you are starting to grow and are new to all of this I recommend dynagro because it's cheap, easy to use, and has good results. All nutrients are good dontt believe what people say I would even recommend miracle grow the one for tomato plants if this is your first grow. The number one thing that I hate about fox farm, advance nutrients, and general hydroponics is that you have to buy their whole line up of nutrients dynagro just has everything in one bottle even has micronutrients.
@@miguelplascencia6093 Thanks for the heads up man! I'll try that out. Someone also told me to mix in earthworm castings with the soil and try to make it more organic.
@@grittygrower6969 i appreciate for taking ur time to reply and another question would u happend to know if it matters how much u add to ur water as long as ur ph on the water is on the ph u want it at
yea i have no idea how your plants turn out or what you grow in but i see you use synthetic nutrients which is horrible to soil organisms and bacteria. the thing i do see completely wrong is mycorrihzae becomes parasitic when using soluble phosphorus which you do. Find a book on it.
truth be told ive read many a book on growing. from big big books to simplistic magazines.Ive changed up a few things in my current setup as this isnt my nutrient list now at all but i still use superthrive, armor Si and mag pro. I grow in coco now and have zero issues with anything and great yields. I really only use the myco bennies for some of veg and then first 4 weeks of flower and stop after that. I was using floranectar to feed my bennies but am currently trying out this product called "mendecino something i forgot the name" for that. also now using swell for late flowering I see i need to make a new video lol
A friend of mine has recharge, Im unsure if he still uses it but hes kinda been through ALL the science of this stuff. If thats the stuf that "reinvigorates" the myco I believe it works, but am unsure as to how to works vs just feeding them sugars Also, ive tried many a nute line but never heard of remo. With all the new legalization, its a different landscape then when is tarted growing a while back when there was only x y and z nutes. If i were youd and you havent alreadt, check the product on amazon and peep the reviews there. Really, im sure its a solid nute company like any other. So many advancedments in growing its hard to keep up! KEEP GROWING
I actually found that when i did that with dyna gro base nutrients, i was coming up short on my PPMs. you really should look into a PPM meter and how to read it. remember theres these "rules of thumbs" to follow seedlings - 0 ppm "true leaves" plants - 100-200 1-2 weeks later most plants can handle 500-700ppms until flower
Silica doesn’t affect the root zone. It helps build cellular walls and makes bigger stalks, helps with the uptake of nutrients and it also helps prevent stress and can even help with pest resistance. ✌️
You know i forgot to mentiont that part about the stalks and am FAR less scientfic in my explination, but a few books i read mentioned that silica actually does what i mentioned as well providing protection of the root zones as well. All i know is i saw better results with it so i kept it in the lineup. thank you for commenting!
Gritty Grower you got it my guy. I’m not trying to be critical in any way, just trying to be helpful. You definitely know what you’re doing and it’s good to see a nutrient video that doesn’t have 42 bottles of additives and supplements. We’re growing specifically for a plant that has a very short lifecycle and a lot of people are using so many products that can’t even be used in the short amount of time we have to grow these plants. I could absolutely pull off a great grow with what you have in this video and nothing else. I could honestly drop the Great White and the molasses and not notice much difference. Also you can actually get some of the best results just using the micro and bloom alone from a 3 part formula, leaving out the grow. I don’t use any grow in a 3 part after the third week of veg because its just more nitrogen than the plants can use and instead use Cal-Mag @5ml Micro @8ml Bloom @9mil kelp, enzymes, and a sweetener (raw) all between 2-5ml for a ppm of around 750 pH @5.8-6.0. I use bloom additive twice, first @2 weeks and again @4 weeks, or as close to the halfway point depending on the strain. I stop using the silica 2-3 weeks into flower and I drop the cal-mag as well. From the halfway point I lower the micro to 5ml and raise the bloom to 12ml for a week or two depending on the plants and then I use kelp, sugars and enzymes until the flush. That’s just a basic and simple regime but it requires some tweaking or possibly something else if an issue occurs, but in almost 25 years I’ve learned that the less you use the fewer problems you tend to have and it’s much easier to narrow down your problems when you’re using fewer products. It really doesn’t matter what line you use as long as you know what you’re using and why, and you stay ahead of your plants instead of “chasing” them trying to correct problems that should have been prevented. Less is usually more when it comes to all of the products available for a plant that’s actually fairly easy to grow. And with synthetic nutrients especially. 2000ppm isn’t twice as good for the plants as 1000ppm and pushing them that hard is actually stressing them and they will lockup and actually stop nutrient uptake all together. Also letting the plants dry out is a key factor in not only allowing oxygen to get to the roots but also in the ppm of the nutrients in the soil. If you check your ppm with a soil probe when your medium is dry you will see that it’s much higher than what you’re actually feeding it versus when it’s moist. That’s why you can burn your plants more easily when they’re really dry. I water feed water now when I used to feed feed water and even though I’m using less nutrients I’m getting faster growth and higher yields. But I always let them dry out, not to the point of wilting or stress, but enough for the entire root zone to get oxygen. Also checking your runoff for ppm/EC and pH is very important for seeing where you really are and for preventing problems before you can see them. And whatever system, nutrients, and regimen you’re using people..ALWAYS FLUSH lol. Seriously it’s crazy to me how many people don’t truly understand how to flush. If your runoff is higher than the clean water you’re pouring in, then all those extra ppm’s of whatever is ending up in your final product. Starting the flush when the pistils are still mostly white is ideal. You don’t want to be harvesting beautiful green plants, they should look like they’re dying and the only thing pretty should be the flowers. ✌️
@@ethanlancaster76 awesome info brother, you just helped me figure out what I've been doing wrong and how I need to get back to what was working before and also you are completely correct abt using so many nutes, fewer is always better. I really appreciate you sharing your wisdom and I hope to hear more from you in the future...
Roel144 pena no problem brother! Glad you found it helpful ✌️
Confusing a lot of people .that great white doesn’t need any starch. You can just sprinkle it into the root zone , or into your reservoir. You don’t need to add it to anything in order for it to work.
Iv been running my homies old dyno grow who has passed away i like to think hes looking down proud of these plants
Though I use some of the stuff you use and some different, I concur with your recipes. In place of Great White I use Recharge (mycorrhizal fungi) . In place of Superthrive I use Sea-Com (from Jonny's Selected Seeds). I too use Armor-si and molasses. For main nutes I use the Flora trio (Flora Micro - Flora Bloom - Flora Grow from General Hydroponics). We differ only in the ppm count. My water is run through an RO filter and comes out at 10ppm, very pure. For full strength, grow or bloom I end up with between 1100 to 1300ppm for a deep water culture set up. I would use less if I grew in medium. Nice presentation.
Micro Chum is used for great white shark and it is a kelp product
Always put silica in your water first fyi
Kelley McBride major key
What’s the science behind adding silica first?
@@tyler238 doesnt ph shock, to high of ph or to high ec will cause nutrient lockout, you should also feed silica by itself on off days, let sit for 2 hours before adding to plants, silica made from potassium isnt immediately soluble
David dupree thanks for the reply big dawg
Try Dynapro Protekt Its one of the best Silika products on the market.
I second this comment ❤️
1250 ppm for me.
I'm wondering what you keep
your co2 at , I'm at 1500 .
Seven foot tall by 5.5 by 6.5
My last crop , 46 oZ's
Your all shit
Hey Gritty Grower, got a quick lil question for you, are these autoflowers or photoperiods? Also what are your thoughts on Fox farms nutes? Asking because I'm currently doing 2 autos in soil on ff but dont know exactly what I am getting myself into here. I'm at 3 weeks today.
I myself never grew autos, but a friend did grow frisian due and got a good yield from it. quality was decent and def worked.
Honestly, I'd check on autoflowering reviews on how they grew it. it seems once it starts the "flowering" phase you switch to bloom nutes. and i would use great white or anything else youd use during a regular grow easily.
Hey if you are starting to grow and are new to all of this I recommend dynagro because it's cheap, easy to use, and has good results. All nutrients are good dontt believe what people say I would even recommend miracle grow the one for tomato plants if this is your first grow. The number one thing that I hate about fox farm, advance nutrients, and general hydroponics is that you have to buy their whole line up of nutrients dynagro just has everything in one bottle even has micronutrients.
@@miguelplascencia6093 Thanks for the heads up man! I'll try that out. Someone also told me to mix in earthworm castings with the soil and try to make it more organic.
Good shit bro! Nice explanation
How much molasses are you disolving it in
Awesome vid
Why do u use general hydro silica when dyna gro has one too. I mean I said u love their line.
The genral hydro is the one everybody rocks with due it being the strongest. of all the silicas out there
Is this regarding hydro or soil?
Are you adding co2?
Thank u
So complicated , I just use dirt.
Smoke first then hold camera still.
I have one question is it ok to use the Dyna gro Grow for out door cannabis soil
It should be, i dont see why not really.
@@grittygrower6969 i appreciate for taking ur time to reply and another question would u happend to know if it matters how much u add to ur water as long as ur ph on the water is on the ph u want it at
yea i have no idea how your plants turn out or what you grow in but i see you use synthetic nutrients which is horrible to soil organisms and bacteria. the thing i do see completely wrong is mycorrihzae becomes parasitic when using soluble phosphorus which you do. Find a book on it.
truth be told ive read many a book on growing. from big big books to simplistic magazines.Ive changed up a few things in my current setup as this isnt my nutrient list now at all but i still use superthrive, armor Si and mag pro.
I grow in coco now and have zero issues with anything and great yields. I really only use the myco bennies for some of veg and then first 4 weeks of flower and stop after that. I was using floranectar to feed my bennies but am currently trying out this product called "mendecino something i forgot the name" for that. also now using swell for late flowering
I see i need to make a new video lol
if growing in soil do you have measurements?
We litteraly use the same stuff
Have you tried Recharged? What about Remo Nutrients? Would love some input, peace.
A friend of mine has recharge, Im unsure if he still uses it but hes kinda been through ALL the science of this stuff. If thats the stuf that "reinvigorates" the myco I believe it works, but am unsure as to how to works vs just feeding them sugars
Also, ive tried many a nute line but never heard of remo. With all the new legalization, its a different landscape then when is tarted growing a while back when there was only x y and z nutes. If i were youd and you havent alreadt, check the product on amazon and peep the reviews there.
Really, im sure its a solid nute company like any other. So many advancedments in growing its hard to keep up! KEEP GROWING
Recharge is awesome. It’s my go to microbe package. Remo Nutes is a fantastic clean line. Check us out over at Dude Grows Show.
hello do use just follow the direction on bottles?
I actually found that when i did that with dyna gro base nutrients, i was coming up short on my PPMs. you really should look into a PPM meter and how to read it. remember theres these "rules of thumbs" to follow
seedlings - 0 ppm
"true leaves" plants - 100-200
1-2 weeks later most plants can handle 500-700ppms until flower
You can tell uve done this a million times
Too many different nutes ! You dont need all of those ! I use 3 for amazing results !
Jack’s fertilizer beats everything in this video.😎👍🏼
Which Jack's do you use?
Jack's isn't very good. Neither is dyno. Salts are salts brother. Jack's has no organic to it haha. Low quality means low quality buds.
Bat poop beats all this
No foliage pro?
Never really gave that a shot but while i would never do it,people have claimed to do full grows with nothing but that from veg to flower
Education will allow you to dump the bottled nutes...
Start then all you have to do is rent some rice
Nonsense
🐂💩 far toooo complex