As an owner of a '98 F150 with the ABS code and the brake system lights glowing red right now, I really appreciate your showing us how to find the break in the wire in this really hard-to-access part of the truck. I replaced the sensor on the "pumpkin" 5 or 6 years ago, and hope the solution to my problem will be simple. If it's not, now I know how to track it down. I have a couple of questions: Was this truck your personal truck that you were familiar with or one taken in on a trade? Second, where do find the information about the sensor circuit resistance and the flash codes? Internet or Alldata, or somewhere else? Many of us have become spoiled by code scanners, but I'd love to know more about accessing and using these built in codes. On the bad wire connection you found and fixed, the heat shrink connectors with low temperature solder built into the connector are a real time and effort saver in tight spaces. If you can get a crimp tool in there the heat shrink crimped couplers also work really well, but the ones with built in solder require the least working room for a tight, waterproof connection. Finally, a comment - when I'm doing this and the problem is possibly caused by corrosion in a connector, I spray both sides of the connector with the strongest version of De-Oxit spray corrosion remover they sell, then use a little dielectric grease on the pins and sockets after the spray has dried out some. While it won't fix a broken wire, it will rejuvenate a corroded connection. Here's a link if you're interested - smile.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=de-oxit+5%25+corrosion+remover&qid=1619377066&sr=8-19. Hosa, the manufacturer of De-Oxit products, makes a complete line of contact cleaners, from strong ones for electronic connectors in cars and electronically controlled equipment to those that only remove static and popping sounds caused by dirty volume controls on old stereos and car radios. Thanks again for taking the time and effort to show us what you had to do in real time to solve this problem.
Looks like you can solve some issues. Please work on the camera work and editing of the video. JFC, I almost had an epileptic episode watching the video!
What if I have 3 flashes but in the 3rd flash it holds like that. So you say it’s eight and then the ninth flash on yours it holds. So since that means eight, does that mean mine is code 2? Because it flashes two time but the third flash it stays solid for a second
This was good info if only there was a little more volume to your audio and you film the actual parts, I believe I need to watch a better video to figure out whats wrong with my ABS.
I love how is raw and uncut footage man, we felt the hardship of accessing those bastard connectors right along with you! You don't see this in this heavily edited videos with "CHECK OUT OUR SPONSOR AND BUY OR MERCH BEFORE WE SHOW YOU THE FIX" guys.
Yes, I just post videos of what I’m working on if I think it might help someone figure out and fix the same thing on their vehicle. Not much editing or anything fancy.
Was trying to see if you could guide me in a couple more steps, the jumper cable is attached to what else coming from behind the dash. I was going to go ahead and run new wire from green and black and red and pink. On the connector in the front I can’t seem to find the red and pink stripe
18 minutes tho
As an owner of a '98 F150 with the ABS code and the brake system lights glowing red right now, I really appreciate your showing us how to find the break in the wire in this really hard-to-access part of the truck. I replaced the sensor on the "pumpkin" 5 or 6 years ago, and hope the solution to my problem will be simple. If it's not, now I know how to track it down. I have a couple of questions: Was this truck your personal truck that you were familiar with or one taken in on a trade? Second, where do find the information about the sensor circuit resistance and the flash codes? Internet or Alldata, or somewhere else? Many of us have become spoiled by code scanners, but I'd love to know more about accessing and using these built in codes. On the bad wire connection you found and fixed, the heat shrink connectors with low temperature solder built into the connector are a real time and effort saver in tight spaces. If you can get a crimp tool in there the heat shrink crimped couplers also work really well, but the ones with built in solder require the least working room for a tight, waterproof connection. Finally, a comment - when I'm doing this and the problem is possibly caused by corrosion in a connector, I spray both sides of the connector with the strongest version of De-Oxit spray corrosion remover they sell, then use a little dielectric grease on the pins and sockets after the spray has dried out some. While it won't fix a broken wire, it will rejuvenate a corroded connection. Here's a link if you're interested - smile.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=de-oxit+5%25+corrosion+remover&qid=1619377066&sr=8-19. Hosa, the manufacturer of De-Oxit products, makes a complete line of contact cleaners, from strong ones for electronic connectors in cars and electronically controlled equipment to those that only remove static and popping sounds caused by dirty volume controls on old stereos and car radios.
Thanks again for taking the time and effort to show us what you had to do in real time to solve this problem.
Why didn't you get someone else to hold the camera and also, speak louder
Looks like you can solve some issues. Please work on the camera work and editing of the video. JFC, I almost had an epileptic episode watching the video!
What if I have 3 flashes but in the 3rd flash it holds like that. So you say it’s eight and then the ninth flash on yours it holds. So since that means eight, does that mean mine is code 2? Because it flashes two time but the third flash it stays solid for a second
Thank you sir I've been looking for a video like this for my 98 f150
Thank you for this video 🤘🏼
Wow, I had a bit of trouble watching Saving Private Ryan, but this had me seasick at a minute in, 😂
Sorry about that, I was moving the camera around waaay too much, lol!
@@blackjaredm I had to quit watching halfway thru and now feeling sick.
This was good info if only there was a little more volume to your audio and you film the actual parts, I believe I need to watch a better video to figure out whats wrong with my ABS.
I will try to do a better job with audio and getting the camera pointed at the exact parts in the future. Thanks for your help.
I love how is raw and uncut footage man, we felt the hardship of accessing those bastard connectors right along with you! You don't see this in this heavily edited videos with "CHECK OUT OUR SPONSOR AND BUY OR MERCH BEFORE WE SHOW YOU THE FIX" guys.
Yes, I just post videos of what I’m working on if I think it might help someone figure out and fix the same thing on their vehicle. Not much editing or anything fancy.
@@blackjaredmturn the camera the other way, good video otherwise
Was trying to see if you could guide me in a couple more steps, the jumper cable is attached to what else coming from behind the dash. I was going to go ahead and run new wire from green and black and red and pink. On the connector in the front I can’t seem to find the red and pink stripe
Thanks for sharing. The broken wire seems like it would be a rare occurrence with regards to troubleshooting.
It is a rare problem. I have fixed dozens of these trucks with ABS lights on, and only two of them had broken wires.