I personally use at least two or three days of curing and a dip of floor polish to help keep the reflection at a decent level. It works surprisingly well.
I've been using this Pen for a few builds now, If you top coat it you lose the sheen but its still a far better look then just the straight silver and since I only use it for minimal parts I can justify the more expensive price. I love this marker and if I'm not gonna touch a part I wouldn't even top coat it to keep the sheen almost mirror finish.
A really Great review, covering a lot of concerns that one might while considering on getting one, as for me, i guess I'll get one just to paint under clear visors like GMs and such
@@HobbyClubhouse as a Zeon MS fan i only been able to work on 2 kits with visors so I'm also not that experienced haha, best I've been able to do is use the Chromed part from the foil stickers to make the visor more reflective
Bandai was really into that sticker-behind-clear-parts trick for a while and I really liked it as a kid... Actually, I still have a roll of chromed decorative tape for builds now:)
You honestly need more subs. All of your videos are so informative. I picked this marker up yesterday and was a bit perplexed at what it was, really glad your videos can help some of us idiots out.
Great video, you gave an awesome example and I hadn't even seen that kit before! I only go for Gundam markers for small inner frame details and if this was cheaper then it might be a nice one to have for that purpose. But it looks like far too much of a fingerprint nightmare for me!
Yeah, it's probably easier and cheaper to just find a Molotow marker if you want to occasionally detail up inner frames with some lovely chrome. And also yes, it's real sad to see a beautiful kit chromed up that you can never ever touch, like some kind of Monkey's Paw thing...
If you lightly brush on some Mr Hobby leveling thinner to Gundam Markers with a clean brush it will smooth out finger prints and flaws if you don’t have a air brush. I’ve done it and it works great.
@@HobbyClubhouse Have you tried my little technique on any paints to see how it works? When you do or have done so let me know what you think about how it works.
Thank you so much! It really is quite a bit of information to organize in the video. Lots of people want to know about different things about these curious markers:)
@@HobbyClubhouse I wonder, does a painted surface coated with GM501 clear gloss makes the surface "safer" to touch? I could honestly consider the aluminum-like look after it if it becomes safer to touch.
Maybe a little but probably just barely. The clear coat is very thin, and the base layer of Gundam Marker has a weak grip on the surface which the top coat can't help
so I've tested this marker and I let it dry for over half a month and touched the surface of the part and it didn't leave any finger prints in the paint nor did it rub off, when I first got the marker after 24hrs it would rub off the part and leave a finger print if touched. This was all done straight from the marker onto the part.
There's an official one simply named the Gundam Marker Airbrush System, though the one I used here is a Chinese-made third-party one. You can find the official one from most online stores:)
@@HobbyClubhouse do you have any link or the machine name for the 3rd party one? it'll be a godsend for me and my somewhat many damaged nibs markers lol.
It's the same as the one in the link down there. I see it on AliExpress listed as the "Gocheer Airbrush" too www.amazon.com/Cher9-Portable-Airbrush-Painting-Modeling/dp/B081PXNK4B
Just came across this video but my current shine silver tip is not working but when I remove it the paint inside still flows, is there a way to clean marker tips? if so what solvents to use?
Planning to use this on my Mandalorian model kit. thanks for including the application of gloss coating because that was supposed to be my first question. But right now, I've painted my Mando kit with silver paint (bosny one because I was on a budget), and it doesn't look shiny at all LOL. But will my model kit look as glossy as that spoon when applying that Gundam Marker XGM100?
I've seen people talk about that a lot for the Molotow paint. I really need to give it a try some time. Never worked with Alclad things so it'll be good experience
where were you when i started doing plamo kits?! HAHAHA just kidding. just stumbled upon your channel and thank you for all these very, very useful reviews! i just want to ask, what was your drying time for this pain/pen? did you consider "baking" or warming up the panels that you painted whether before painting (to ensure the paint adheres) or after (to harden the paint)? cheers! and I just subscribed. I'm more of a plamo builder but your reviews are really, really useful and worth looking into.
Got one as a gift from a friend who gets them as promo, and I was wondering if you could handle them with gloves? I wonder what problem with handling is, whether its something like the oils on my skin or if it's just pushing my fingerprint into the finish.
Thank you fo sharing; Do you recommend the Gundam Air Brush System? Is it only for Gundam Markers? Do you have to constantly remove the marker and pump the tip as you paint?
I don't know if I got a dud or if they changed the formula, but my marker doesn't look good. It looks pretty dull and more like a regular metallic paint instead of a shiny chrome.
@@HobbyClubhouse Absolutely agree. I painted my EG Gundam Chrome, Gold and EX metallic red. If looks like it could be a Gundam Base limited kit or something.👍
I think it's really just that it's a chrome-like paint you can apply with a pen. There are somewhat similar paints that need a lot of support like a smooth black coat underneath, but the Molotow can be used straight out of the pen whenever you like
One thing when using a Molotow pen is you got to let it dry for a few days for full curing. If you accidentally touch it and leave a fingerprint you can use Mr Hobby leveling thinner and it will restore the paint surface. Just take a clean brush and dip it into the leveling thinner then brush it on the fingerprint and it will begin to fizzle like soda and then it levels back out. I’ve done it for the past few years and it works great for me. I hope that this will help you out as well.
You know what, I totally forgot about that. When I did that test, I totally thought the chrome silver didn't dissolve colors under it. As I used it more I saw it dissolving downwards in other places. Totally forgot that bit should have been replaced. The one spray there was a lucky fluke
QUESTION: Can you apply top coat spray to our gundam model first, then apply the chrome silver paint afterwards? Will that preserve the shiny chrome effect of the paint?
No, the top coat is what it says...top coat. It's a layer on top to filter glare it doesn't mix with the paint or plastic. If you have it under you won't achieve anything and will get your pen dirty
hey i know the video is long out and tbh i havent checked the newer vids from you but uh .. when it comes to chrome.. god i hope i dont get banned or spamfiltered. there is a company called Spaz Stix who produces a varnish for mirror chrome. its pretty tough too and not really expensive.. BUT .. its really freaking toxic and in its uncured, raw form flammable. this helps with molotov or the Spaz Stix chrome paint .. so maybe it would work with the gundam marker aswell ? Also: could you test the new holo colors ?
@@HobbyClubhouse i was planning to buy one but torn between this and sparmax flyer sr. but i guess buying the 3rd party one is no big deal anyway, and then buy the sparmax?
I have my reservations about the Sparmax Flyer. The original bottles are damaged by paint thinners (not sure whose bright idea that was) so they later made new bottles, so make sure it's that new type that's thinner-resistant if you do get it - but even then, I was shocked by how much the updated bottles cost. Otherwise, it seems like a really nice and convenient airbrush
I really think I should since they're so popular. Gotta get to to know them a bit better first though, I'm not quite familiar enough with them yet to do a good review
You bet, it works pretty well painting just by free hand, you can see a demo of it at 1:41. You might get some tiny bubbles, but if you can live with that, the coat is very smooth and free of streaks
Unfortunately, the molotow also doesn't like top coats of any kind. It's almost identical to the Gundam Marker and becomes an aluminum texture, so that's about all you can manage with layer colors on top -- and I think only water-based paints are safe to use on it
Unfortunately not. The Molotow behaves almost exactly the same as this marker. Once you touch it, it becomes a slightly cloudy surface like the matte side of aluminum foil
The one sold with an air can (usually taken out in the US) works only with air cans, and the one sold by itself with a smaller box works with regular compressor hoses There are adaptors like these to let the air can type use regular compressors though spraygunner.com/mr-hobby-joint-set-for-air-hose/ The molotow pen has different sizes I think. The 2mm one I have has a slimmer body than a Gundam Marker so you can just loop some tape or paper around it and it'll fit into that holder on the airbrush adaptor. Probably a bit janky, but I don't see why it wouldn't work
This is the one sold with an air can www.mr-hobby.com/en/product1/category_10/2564.html And this is the one sold by itself and works with compressors www.mr-hobby.com/en/product1/category_10/3151.html
Yes you can, the waterslide decal and the water itself won't damage the coat, but you'll need lots of care to avoid touching any of the surface in the process with your hand
@@HobbyClubhouse thx for your reply, may I know if the gloss topcoat pen I mentioned about can protect the chrome parts from fingerprints or help putting the parts easier? Edit: I found and watched your video on it, it was very helpful and answered my questions, thx
It is much better with gloves, though pressure on the surface will affect it still. Should have used gloves to assemble it, now that you suggest that...
They are alcohol based, not particularly toxic, but a ventilated room is a good idea. If you want non-toxic, acrylic hobby paints like Vallejo are the best.
is it different from a SHINE SILVER? i ordered a plated Silver, and i think its different from the shine silver. and your video says its a chrome silver.
Yeah, the chrome silver is different from shine silver. The one here should be the one you ordered and has a mirror-like sheen. The shine silver is not reflective like this one and it also isn't as fragile
They've been missing from stores ever since I got those two as well. Some new stock just shipped out in Japan, but who knows when GSI Creos will more to their overseas customers...
i don't remember where i heard this from but you need to let the chrome sit for a week before it's completely cured. it should be safe to touch then. Still best to prepare a test piece just to be extra sure though
The coat does cure a bit more if you leave it for a day or more, but sadly it'll always be very weak to touch. It's just the nature of paint imitating chrome
That's a good question. The two you see here in the video are from a physical store here in Hong Kong, but I haven't seen any more ever since. I think they've all sold out everywhere and GSI Creos hasn't made another shipment yet
It's the same where I am actually. I've only seen it once which is how I got the two in the video. The molotow one I just waltzed into a store later and got off a shelf
I didn't have it at hand to try, so I can't tell you for sure, though if it's anything like the Molotow, really the best outcome is an aluminum texture with no erosion and sadly no additional protection. Chrome markers truly come with big trade-offs
Honestly, I immediately lost interest when you revealed I couldn't use it to make chrome gold. Unless that changes, I want nothing to do with this thing.
I personally use at least two or three days of curing and a dip of floor polish to help keep the reflection at a decent level. It works surprisingly well.
I've been using this Pen for a few builds now, If you top coat it you lose the sheen but its still a far better look then just the straight silver and since I only use it for minimal parts I can justify the more expensive price. I love this marker and if I'm not gonna touch a part I wouldn't even top coat it to keep the sheen almost mirror finish.
A really Great review, covering a lot of concerns that one might while considering on getting one, as for me, i guess I'll get one just to paint under clear visors like GMs and such
Yeah, I'd love to try it on some clear parts too though haven't had the occasion yet to see how that'd go. I imagine it'd be really nice
@@HobbyClubhouse as a Zeon MS fan i only been able to work on 2 kits with visors so I'm also not that experienced haha, best I've been able to do is use the Chromed part from the foil stickers to make the visor more reflective
Bandai was really into that sticker-behind-clear-parts trick for a while and I really liked it as a kid... Actually, I still have a roll of chromed decorative tape for builds now:)
@@HobbyClubhouse they did? So far I've only used what's in the sticker sheet as an improv
@@UselessFox224 I’ve used Molotow behind a mono eye for a Zaku and I cut out a circle for the eye with clear styrene and
If the chrome was given more time to fully dry, like 24 or 48 hours, can you touch it without leaving fingerprints?
You honestly need more subs. All of your videos are so informative. I picked this marker up yesterday and was a bit perplexed at what it was, really glad your videos can help some of us idiots out.
Great video, you gave an awesome example and I hadn't even seen that kit before! I only go for Gundam markers for small inner frame details and if this was cheaper then it might be a nice one to have for that purpose. But it looks like far too much of a fingerprint nightmare for me!
Yeah, it's probably easier and cheaper to just find a Molotow marker if you want to occasionally detail up inner frames with some lovely chrome. And also yes, it's real sad to see a beautiful kit chromed up that you can never ever touch, like some kind of Monkey's Paw thing...
If you lightly brush on some Mr Hobby leveling thinner to Gundam Markers with a clean brush it will smooth out finger prints and flaws if you don’t have a air brush. I’ve done it and it works great.
Did it affect the sheen when you did that? Sounds awesome from what you say
@@HobbyClubhouse No, not from what I've seen.
@@HobbyClubhouse Have you tried my little technique on any paints to see how it works? When you do or have done so let me know what you think about how it works.
Nicely done review, loved how you are concise and too the point while explaining in detail. Cheers, I'll be looking forward to future videos!
Thank you so much! It really is quite a bit of information to organize in the video. Lots of people want to know about different things about these curious markers:)
I heard there’s a “top coat” gundam marker i think it’s gm501 and gm502. Will you review it someday?
I sure will. Got all the footage already even. You can see the GM501 clear gloss for a bit in this video too:)
@@HobbyClubhouse ah i see can’t wait to see the review since i can’t find a vid about it
Thanks for the warning about the clear coats. Saved me a lot of time and money.
You'd think using them would be quite straight forward but there's a surprising bit of caveats:)
@@HobbyClubhouse I wonder, does a painted surface coated with GM501 clear gloss makes the surface "safer" to touch? I could honestly consider the aluminum-like look after it if it becomes safer to touch.
Maybe a little but probably just barely. The clear coat is very thin, and the base layer of Gundam Marker has a weak grip on the surface which the top coat can't help
so I've tested this marker and I let it dry for over half a month and touched the surface of the part and it didn't leave any finger prints in the paint nor did it rub off, when I first got the marker after 24hrs it would rub off the part and leave a finger print if touched. This was all done straight from the marker onto the part.
That airbrush using the GM as main source of paint is so cool. Is that a mod to the normal airbrush, or there are airbrushes that actually do that?
There's an official one simply named the Gundam Marker Airbrush System, though the one I used here is a Chinese-made third-party one. You can find the official one from most online stores:)
@@HobbyClubhouse do you have any link or the machine name for the 3rd party one? it'll be a godsend for me and my somewhat many damaged nibs markers lol.
It's the same as the one in the link down there. I see it on AliExpress listed as the "Gocheer Airbrush" too
www.amazon.com/Cher9-Portable-Airbrush-Painting-Modeling/dp/B081PXNK4B
Just came across this video but my current shine silver tip is not working but when I remove it the paint inside still flows, is there a way to clean marker tips? if so what solvents to use?
What an outstanding review that anticipated every question that I had about this product. If you aren't a marketing manager, you should be!
Planning to use this on my Mandalorian model kit. thanks for including the application of gloss coating because that was supposed to be my first question. But right now, I've painted my Mando kit with silver paint (bosny one because I was on a budget), and it doesn't look shiny at all LOL. But will my model kit look as glossy as that spoon when applying that Gundam Marker XGM100?
Alclad II aqua gloss can be airbrushed over Chrome paint, and it retains most of its reflection.
I've seen people talk about that a lot for the Molotow paint. I really need to give it a try some time. Never worked with Alclad things so it'll be good experience
Also E7-COLOR 5-02 Chrome Sealer. Not perfect, but like above post, retains most of the reflection.
might be able make HG Cybuster look like the pbandai version by dulling the mirror sheen with the clear coat like in the video. thanks!
where were you when i started doing plamo kits?! HAHAHA just kidding. just stumbled upon your channel and thank you for all these very, very useful reviews!
i just want to ask, what was your drying time for this pain/pen? did you consider "baking" or warming up the panels that you painted whether before painting (to ensure the paint adheres) or after (to harden the paint)? cheers! and I just subscribed. I'm more of a plamo builder but your reviews are really, really useful and worth looking into.
I think this might work great on the silver sword parts on the PG Exia. Also would gloves help with handling the parts to not leave marks?
I'd love to see how a typical hobby gloss solution like Pledge Future floor polish would play with this.
Oh I have a marker and I can try this.
Hm, if you do try it do let me know here. I'm so curious about Pledge since I've heard about it for so many years but never used it myself
@@HobbyClubhouse try rejuivinate also
Cool video really looking to get this marker it's so hard to come by everywhere is out of stock.
It really is hard to get. I got the two for this video by incredible luck. The next production run will ship out some time in June
Got one as a gift from a friend who gets them as promo, and I was wondering if you could handle them with gloves? I wonder what problem with handling is, whether its something like the oils on my skin or if it's just pushing my fingerprint into the finish.
As a general thing always wear gloves when painting, hand oils can mess up a vast majority of paints.
Thank you fo sharing; Do you recommend the Gundam Air Brush System? Is it only for Gundam Markers? Do you have to constantly remove the marker and pump the tip as you paint?
I don't know if I got a dud or if they changed the formula, but my marker doesn't look good. It looks pretty dull and more like a regular metallic paint instead of a shiny chrome.
Me too it looks the same as the xgm02 like wtf
Will it fingerprint if you where latex gloves?
I can't find this marker, but there's a deal on the German ones on Amazon. Thinking about getting those
If you mean the Molotow, then that's a pretty good equivalent and work almost exactly the same
What's the third party gundam marker airbrush system you're using?
Idk suggest trying to use E7 chrome sealer or pledge floor polish since it doesn't burn due to not being a paint and more of a sealer
I've heard about Pledge for so many years, I really need to try it out some time. I wonder what that stuff's made of and how it does with age...
I'm getting 2. One to paint details, one for the marker Airbrush thingy. Maybe I'll bring up my G40 Gundam.
The coat of paint really looks smooth and even when it's applied with the airbrush system
@@HobbyClubhouse Absolutely agree. I painted my EG Gundam Chrome, Gold and EX metallic red.
If looks like it could be a Gundam Base limited kit or something.👍
Got the molotow before even seeing this was cheaper and after seeing this glad i saved the $2.
Thanks for the great video. You saved me from buying the wrong market and saved me a few $.
That's great to know! The markers are quite hyped up and may be taken by surprise by the limitations
question.... have you done the gold markers yet? i personally like the red gold one that comes with the advanced mettallic set
I'm curious... what exactly makes Molotow so legendary? (Besides what's stated here of course.)
I think it's really just that it's a chrome-like paint you can apply with a pen. There are somewhat similar paints that need a lot of support like a smooth black coat underneath, but the Molotow can be used straight out of the pen whenever you like
One thing when using a Molotow pen is you got to let it dry for a few days for full curing. If you accidentally touch it and leave a fingerprint you can use Mr Hobby leveling thinner and it will restore the paint surface. Just take a clean brush and dip it into the leveling thinner then brush it on the fingerprint and it will begin to fizzle like soda and then it levels back out. I’ve done it for the past few years and it works great for me. I hope that this will help you out as well.
Question: I see you use black gundam marker as the base
But wouldn't the gundam marker "melt" the lower layer?
You know what, I totally forgot about that. When I did that test, I totally thought the chrome silver didn't dissolve colors under it. As I used it more I saw it dissolving downwards in other places. Totally forgot that bit should have been replaced. The one spray there was a lucky fluke
10:34 , thats a very good looking shine if u ask me .
It's breathtaking when you see the radical transformation. Too bad it's all Monkey's Paw
QUESTION: Can you apply top coat spray to our gundam model first, then apply the chrome silver paint afterwards? Will that preserve the shiny chrome effect of the paint?
No, the top coat is what it says...top coat. It's a layer on top to filter glare it doesn't mix with the paint or plastic. If you have it under you won't achieve anything and will get your pen dirty
hey i know the video is long out and tbh i havent checked the newer vids from you but uh .. when it comes to chrome.. god i hope i dont get banned or spamfiltered. there is a company called Spaz Stix who produces a varnish for mirror chrome. its pretty tough too and not really expensive.. BUT .. its really freaking toxic and in its uncured, raw form flammable. this helps with molotov or the Spaz Stix chrome paint .. so maybe it would work with the gundam marker aswell ?
Also: could you test the new holo colors ?
Does the top coat issue also transpire with the other Gundam Marker EXs? Or is this specifically just for the chrome?
This looks great, I think I’ll buy it to use it instead of those small and shiny stickers that some model kits have xd
the gundam marker air bush look so ez
(im too lazy to mix the paint myself) XD
what mm tip does the gundam marker have and what mm tip does your molotov marker have? great video btw!
Great video and review
Thank you so much! This was a product I really wanted to review myself:)
What if I’m trying to color in fine lines. Is there a pen attachment I can get ?
Can u review that marker airbrush system? And the tips and tricks
I'll see if I can fit it all into one video before the channel hiatus, I do want to do a Gundam Marker tutorial that covers the airbrush
@@HobbyClubhouse i was planning to buy one but torn between this and sparmax flyer sr. but i guess buying the 3rd party one is no big deal anyway, and then buy the sparmax?
@@HobbyClubhouse btw, how do you apply the molotow to the spoon? air brush?
I have my reservations about the Sparmax Flyer. The original bottles are damaged by paint thinners (not sure whose bright idea that was) so they later made new bottles, so make sure it's that new type that's thinner-resistant if you do get it - but even then, I was shocked by how much the updated bottles cost. Otherwise, it seems like a really nice and convenient airbrush
Nope, I just colored the Molotow side by hand
can you review the molotow too? and if it can be used as a basecoat and top coated
I really think I should since they're so popular. Gotta get to to know them a bit better first though, I'm not quite familiar enough with them yet to do a good review
can you do good with it with just painting it itself? without using any tools like airbrush or paint brush?
You bet, it works pretty well painting just by free hand, you can see a demo of it at 1:41. You might get some tiny bubbles, but if you can live with that, the coat is very smooth and free of streaks
@@HobbyClubhouse I see. thank you so much
Hey, since you got the molotow,can you give tips on adding clear coats on it to give gold color like accents?
Unfortunately, the molotow also doesn't like top coats of any kind. It's almost identical to the Gundam Marker and becomes an aluminum texture, so that's about all you can manage with layer colors on top -- and I think only water-based paints are safe to use on it
I’ve used Tamiya clear colors and they work on Molotow.
I'm quite a bit late but can we touch the surface after painting it with molotow one?
Unfortunately not. The Molotow behaves almost exactly the same as this marker. Once you touch it, it becomes a slightly cloudy surface like the matte side of aluminum foil
@@HobbyClubhouse I see. Thank you!
Does the marker airbrush use canister air or a compressor? And does molotow pen fit in the airbrush?
The one sold with an air can (usually taken out in the US) works only with air cans, and the one sold by itself with a smaller box works with regular compressor hoses
There are adaptors like these to let the air can type use regular compressors though
spraygunner.com/mr-hobby-joint-set-for-air-hose/
The molotow pen has different sizes I think. The 2mm one I have has a slimmer body than a Gundam Marker so you can just loop some tape or paper around it and it'll fit into that holder on the airbrush adaptor. Probably a bit janky, but I don't see why it wouldn't work
This is the one sold with an air can
www.mr-hobby.com/en/product1/category_10/2564.html
And this is the one sold by itself and works with compressors
www.mr-hobby.com/en/product1/category_10/3151.html
The 4 mm Molotow marker might fit. It is very close to the same size as a Gundam Marker.
What are better first top to 5?
What does this look like when it's used to paint the back-side of a transparent piece?
can you put waterslide decals over it though?
Yes you can, the waterslide decal and the water itself won't damage the coat, but you'll need lots of care to avoid touching any of the surface in the process with your hand
can you use topcoat over this? like a matt/flat topcoat spray can by mr. hobby?
Unfortunately not, 5:39 has a demonstration. It will dissolve the marker paint and make a runny mess
@@HobbyClubhouse too bad, i was planning to use this on my rg sazabi before matt topcoating it.
I have a question, does that mean you can’t panel line the parts painted if you don’t have the clear coat paint on?
For this chrome silver, yeah, there really aren't any options unless you top coat it with something compatible
@@HobbyClubhouse thx for your reply, may I know if the gloss topcoat pen I mentioned about can protect the chrome parts from fingerprints or help putting the parts easier?
Edit: I found and watched your video on it, it was very helpful and answered my questions, thx
Assemble with cotton gloves to avoid fingerprints?
It is much better with gloves, though pressure on the surface will affect it still. Should have used gloves to assemble it, now that you suggest that...
Does XGM100 smear after dried? or it stays strong?
It doesn't smear like wet paint and it doesn't chip off, though the paint loses its reflective shine when it's touched
Are the gundam chrome markers toxic my son just got into building models but I don’t want him getting sick from them I never used these markers before
They are alcohol based, not particularly toxic, but a ventilated room is a good idea. If you want non-toxic, acrylic hobby paints like Vallejo are the best.
is it different from a SHINE SILVER? i ordered a plated Silver, and i think its different from the shine silver. and your video says its a chrome silver.
Yeah, the chrome silver is different from shine silver. The one here should be the one you ordered and has a mirror-like sheen. The shine silver is not reflective like this one and it also isn't as fragile
it just like Molotow Chrome .. Using Tamiya ENAMEL X22 clear should be ok as topcoat
Sounds very intriguing. I've never tried an enamel coat on the Molotow, I really need to take a look.
It does work. I’ve done it lots of times.
I cannot find this marker in my country im so dying to buy this marker haha
They've been missing from stores ever since I got those two as well. Some new stock just shipped out in Japan, but who knows when GSI Creos will more to their overseas customers...
i don't remember where i heard this from but you need to let the chrome sit for a week before it's completely cured. it should be safe to touch then. Still best to prepare a test piece just to be extra sure though
The coat does cure a bit more if you leave it for a day or more, but sadly it'll always be very weak to touch. It's just the nature of paint imitating chrome
Where can you get the XGM100?
That's a good question. The two you see here in the video are from a physical store here in Hong Kong, but I haven't seen any more ever since. I think they've all sold out everywhere and GSI Creos hasn't made another shipment yet
You can used marker for airbrush???
What the? How ????
what is the size of that molotow marker?
The one in the video is a 2mm one
@@HobbyClubhouse thank you..new subscriber here..it is hard to find that gundam marker..the molotow one is everywhere here..
It's the same where I am actually. I've only seen it once which is how I got the two in the video. The molotow one I just waltzed into a store later and got off a shelf
Not being able to touch it is a bit of a deal breaker
Won't mr hobby or mr premium work with this marker? Since mr hobby/premium is acrylic-based, maybe it will work better with gundam markers.
I didn't have it at hand to try, so I can't tell you for sure, though if it's anything like the Molotow, really the best outcome is an aluminum texture with no erosion and sadly no additional protection. Chrome markers truly come with big trade-offs
I'm looking for a silver not a chrome for some reasons
Use it on high grade kits. Don't use on other grade than that. It was super tedious and don't work out well.
Honestly, I immediately lost interest when you revealed I couldn't use it to make chrome gold.
Unless that changes, I want nothing to do with this thing.
Yeah, there are many use cases that just don't work with these markers unfortunately
You could try Molotow and a clear yellow or orange and it makes a chrome like gold. I’ve done it and it works great.