Colors on a CRT are always going to be different. The phosphor colors themselves, have a certain color range. Then you also have the darkness between the phosphors from the Shadomask itself... which darkens the overall colors. There is light leaking over the mask... which creates softness, color blending, etc. And finally... the CRT has a certain color range / color space itself. This can be due to internal voltages, as well as the electronic chips that drive it.. and to how its "Tuned" (as well as user-controlled color options). Depending on the age of the CRT... (and the type)... you will have various different looks, and color ranges. For example... Sega's 1980s arcade game "Turbo" is displayed on a low resolution "Standard Resolution" arcade monitor. The Shadowmask of that monitor, has much thicker lines, and much larger phosphor dots. As such.. the effect on the colors and textures.. is much greater than Newer model CRTs that have finer dot-pitch masks. There is more light leaking on larger masks as well.. so the colors and mixing are effected much more too. I believe my Turbo had the original monitor... and it was a model that is different from arcade monitors made years later... that use the same "standard resolution". Again.. due to the Shadowmask being finer. When you are displaying an image designed to be displayed on a CRT... on to an LCD... you can tell that the colors are WAY too exaggerated and bright. This is because these games were designed for CRTs shadowmasks dimming effect... and so the signal is strong enough to account for that dimming. There SHOULD be an option to change the color space and ranges... based on real CRT comparisons and CRT Data. As for the Mask effects in these devices.. it really doesnt work like a real CRTs shadowmask.. and likely never will. Even on the largest phosphor dots of a low-res arcade monitor.. you need a magnify glass to even see them fully. The kind of resolution to reproduce that level of scale is likely never going to be available to LCD based displays. And of course, the Light Leak based color mixing.. still would have to be Emulated.. because the simulated mask, isnt going to re-create the light leak on its own. If these creators would actually compare real world hardware results... they might actually get a LOT closer than the POOR quality reproduction attempts that we have today.
thank you for all of that information. while i dont think that this implementation is perfect nor is it a replace for crts, i do think they have a place and i am glad they exist. i havent been playing with the settings much but i believe there has already been a few updates to these since i made this video
@@Kage5868 You really didnt read / understand what I wrote. Actually, CRTs can be far Brighter than many modern displays. An example of this, is a Vector Monitor... such as seen in games like Asteroids Deluxe. No modern display, outside of an actual Laser lightshow projector.. can produce that level of brightness, as seen on a Vector Monitor.'
@@johndough8115 I found this one jvc crt on youtube you right they can be vibrant with excellent black level, but i never have good experience with a good crt in the past that's why i tend to just stuck with a nice hdtv, but i'm still looking for that one perfect crt
It's been shown that it will take over 12,000 PPI to properly reach the dot pitch & pixel density that CRTs are capable of, and that number is just for a 240p resolution beam with a standard 0.0080mm or so DP, trying to do the match for the PPI needed for a 0.0021mm DP with a 1440p resolution beam, I guess you could just say around 3x 12,000 PPI (so 36,000 PPI), will we see a modern full display monitor with that level of PPI/DP, a OLEDoS (OLED on silicone aka micro OLED) will have PPI/DP level in that range in just a few years sure, there are already prototype 8-9000 PPI 0.4" OLEDoS modules, which can almost display sprite based graphics as intended without so much as a single scanline shader needed to do so, as a result, just as with high-end CRT monitors with below 0.0035mm DP & 2MP+ resolutions, modern graphics also look incredible and infinitely superior on them compared to current standard chunky DP/low PPI monitors that you could park a bus in-between the subpixels. I think first we will see handheld gaming consoles such as UMGPC's & Retro handhelds with displays capable of 12K @ 6" for an 11,000 PPI/0.0023mm DP, which is capable of correctly rendering 240p pixel/sprite based graphics without any shaders/filters/scanlines/etc, @ 16K/15,000 PPI (6" size display), it will be capable of displaying immaculate 360p and perhaps even 480p sprite graphics accurately, again without any aid from software filters etc, also modern graphics will look completely stunning, and you will be able to render lifelike objects/textures inside the game world, so say there was a small Ice sculpture in front of you, it could, if done properly by the devs/artist, look ultra realistic, as could skin tones, glass windows and so on, this is what true HD displays (High-Density) unlock, CRTs had 60 years of R&D, Electroluminescence displays (OLED/mLED/eQD
So i got just about what you have on the retrotink with my settings, but for some reason spyro 1 is an absolute fuzz, but the rest of the spyro games look amazing. Even with my loadouts made, i feel asif spyro 1 was made really fuzzy. But appreciate you and your settings, you gave me a major headstart on what settings to fix. Thanks !!
i like the pvm 600 and customer-1 filters. how it looks on original crt is still hard to beat though, softer scanlines and colors except that spyro don't look as purple.
one of my hugest pet peeves with the CRT filter craze is that u notice, on the real crt, the scanlines are hardly noticeable to the naked eye and proper viewing distance. I got a cheap hdmi scanline generator a while back which has rgb knobs and dialed them all up to decrease the darkness of the lines for a more subtle look. also i hate how they look often patternistic where u can see the seems
Due to nostalgia, I will have to side with the CRT display. That's unless in the future Retrolink is able to fully revive the display back to an original CRT TV 100 %, and I assume the soundtrack quality is the same. Thanks for the comparison. It's hard to find a comparison with an upscaler device and a CRT TV showcasing one of the Classic Spyro games on UA-cam.
This made the perfect motion on the CRT so obvious vs the LCD, each time the little fly creature flapping its wings would switch over sides from the LCD to the CRT it went from fuzzy to crystal clear on the CRT, you could still see the detail on his wings etc, also none of those CRT emulation modes looked any good compared to the CRT's pretty much perfect IQ, that said if you choose just a simple scanline overlay on the LCD, it will look much better vs without it, you basically want both H scanlines and V scanlines, also this is only effective with RGB stripe monitors, so most LCS monitors are ok, but most OLED displays have totally different sub-pixel layouts which looks horrible with scanline filters, RGB-OLED monitors however look the best with scanlines (not to mention they have three sub-pixels to each pixel vs only two for non-RGB type), given how much closer to CRT they are, Super AMOLED displays have RGB stripe pixel layouts too.
I've been trying to get a retrotink-like look for PC (using ReShade shaders) but I haven't really found a match. I don't suppose anyone knows of something?
i don’t but i can look into it, it sounds interesting. are you talking about just general pc use? or using for pc games? if for games then modern or older? or even just for emulators? i think retroarch has some decent ones and i think it also has dosbox.
Hey, is it possible to have the retrotink 5x pro display 4:3 full screen? Cuz' when I tried to test it on my atari, it shrunk a bit like it didn't take the entire screen and idk what button or settings can fix that.
I'm not 100% that im following what you're asking, but try messing with the scaling options. I would go to 5X scale and see if that gives you what you want.
One day I hope to get one of these but man its expensive for me. I got a Retrotink 2X-Pro and it only has one option for scanlines, and they suck because it makes the screen too dark and colors dull. I need scanlines, sharp pixels are not to my taste. It also has a blur filter that I don’t like. And there was screen burn when I connected a console with 480i for only about an hour. I don’t remember seeing videos that talked about screen burn in their reviews. The 2x is not worth it for me.
I would prefer a comparison between a cheap consumer 500-lines slot mask TV and the same filters on the RetroTINK. 😅 Those games were designed for regular household which mostly had cheap TVs with slot masks. (Well... I sure never used anything else than cheap TVs... ...) I bet Nintendo also had cheap TV to look at the end result... Maybe they had professionnal-grade CRTs, but, IMHO, those were useless to fine-tune the visuals for cheap TVs.
All video games are developed on what basically are custom PC's/workstations, these are coupled with reference grade monitors and projectors, for the SNES and N64 for instance, Nintendo use super high-end SGI workstations with 1600 TVL monitors, all games are colour calibrated and designed to look as good as possible, this way, even on a low-end CRT TV, the game will look consistent and still serviceable, they didn't just reduce the fidelity of their IP to cater for the lowest denominator, NES/SNES/Mega Drive games were able to look amazing on computer monitors and in fact the Mega Drive did have its own PC model with a full-fat high-resolution monitor, as did the Famicon that looks every bit as good as an Amiga computer does, the official Sega Sharp monitor (similar to Nintendo's NES/SNES Sharp RGB monitor, same tube was used in the NES TV that is internally hooked up via RGB) is over 800 TVL and the Mega Drive looks beautiful on it. When it comes to releasing a game or announcing to game media for instance, Nintendo want their games to look as high quality and have as high fidelity as possible, all media and initial publicity of each game release relies on the games looking as good as possible in photos and videos for gaming publications and TV media, often there were strict guidelines when journalist outlets were given review/media packages of their games to use only high quality broadcast/pro monitors with 800-1000 TVL, most NES game review photos were captured from Nintendo's bespoke Sharp RGB monitor which has a built-in NES connected via RGB, that was at the time the only native hardware RGB NES available, and it really displayed NES games in their best light, they have something similar for the SNES, this is how Nintendo advertised their games and this displayed them to their best potential, which just goes to show Nintendo and all other game DEVS want mean for their games to look as close to reference quality as possible, that is to say as close to a nice 800 TVL BVM as the persons who are buying the game bank balance allows, most gamers couldn't afford the 800 TVL JVC D-Series CRTs or Sony's Super Black Trinitron CRT TV's, but even so the option was there. All NES/SNES/N64/etc games look their best on professional reference grade BVM monitors, this is why they are reference displays in the first place, this is to maintain consistency and quality, all mainstream game DEVS work with the best highest IQ video equipment, the DEVs would never "fine tune" games for lower IQ TV sets as you said lol, it's just down to the quality of your equipment such as whether you are using composite or S-video/RGB, the TVL of your display plus dot-pitch, the source material is calibrated to look as good as possible and will look best on a reference grade PVM/BVM or a high-end TV, that said some people prefer the lower fidelity/TVL look, for this you just need to use a 240 TVL display, me personally my sweet spot is a 400 TVL shadow mask for 8-Bit and 16-Bit games @ 240p (I love how the SNES & Mega Drive looks on my 35" 4:3 Thomson Black Pearl CRT), but I also love the look of some content/games @ 800-1000 TVL on a pro aperture grill for some 240p games. For Gamecube/OGXB, I love to use my 36" Panasonic SR Acuity superfine dot-pitch EDTV CRT, it's thanks to the game DEVS calibrating their games to look as close to perfection as possible that we can choose whether we want to play them on a standard 240p consumer CRT or a 1600 TVL CRT monitor, it no different today, game devs are still using reference grade pro video and audio gear to tweak their games and make them look as good as possible, but you the consumer get to choose what resolution or fidelity you lay the game at, though standards are nowhere near as high as they used to be, especially when it comes to audio, Nintendo and a handful of other DEVS being the exception to this rule, as they still actually have very high quality standards and a game going gold actually means something.
Hi I've just received my retrotink 5x and updated it to the the latest firmware but the polyphase and int Mod scanlines are nowhere to be seen in my options. Do you have any idea where I could find them?
Old comment, I know. I have an oled 4k tv and 5x. I use 2560x1440 (turn on advanced resolutions). Generic resolution. Bob scan line. Go down two settings find Bob setting on crt simulate. S. Gaussian scan line and grille-medium. Scan line settings 1, 5 for a lighter setting. To 5, 20 for a medium setting. 10, 50 for a heavier setting. Now it's very important to HDR on to counter the brightness loss and voila. Use sharp for 2d and soft for 3d games. Smooth on 480p content if you want.
But, OSSC requires console mods for NES and N64 which are 2 of the most important consoles in history, can't switch resolution well, and only has bob deinterlacing. So really, you're paying more for an OSSC than a 5x including console mods, a GBS to do the deinterlacing, an external S-video/composite input, and still won't get fast resolution switching.
@@zonk1477 part shortages and stuff, and it has the price of just buy a retrotink 5x or ossc already, or maybe just get a crt they're basically literally free on facebook marketplace or anything else
@@saibot20194 Screw it, just get a crt from facebook marketplace or a random curb, steer clear of anything above 27 inches or curved trinitrons unless you can lift 100+lbs, into a vehicle, up some stairs, and up a full flight of stairs into an upstairs room
fighting to have my camera look good vs accurate and then fighting having the direct capture look close to the camera vs good vs accurate was kind of hard. he do be kinda blue tho
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Great comparison. I have never seen a side by side like this.
happy to help
CRT just looks so much clearer. Shame can’t get it this sharp on my 4K TV
I love these videos. I just found your channel and subscribed. I enjoyed all these scan line comparison. I just ordered a retro tink 5x myself
Awesome, thank you! I hope you get as much use out of it as I do mine.
Feel free to leave any video suggestions
Good side by side comparison not seen any videos that do this on UA-cam, now time to mess with my retrotink 5x
Colors on a CRT are always going to be different. The phosphor colors themselves, have a certain color range. Then you also have the darkness between the phosphors from the Shadomask itself... which darkens the overall colors. There is light leaking over the mask... which creates softness, color blending, etc. And finally... the CRT has a certain color range / color space itself. This can be due to internal voltages, as well as the electronic chips that drive it.. and to how its "Tuned" (as well as user-controlled color options).
Depending on the age of the CRT... (and the type)... you will have various different looks, and color ranges.
For example... Sega's 1980s arcade game "Turbo" is displayed on a low resolution "Standard Resolution" arcade monitor. The Shadowmask of that monitor, has much thicker lines, and much larger phosphor dots. As such.. the effect on the colors and textures.. is much greater than Newer model CRTs that have finer dot-pitch masks.
There is more light leaking on larger masks as well.. so the colors and mixing are effected much more too.
I believe my Turbo had the original monitor... and it was a model that is different from arcade monitors made years later... that use the same "standard resolution". Again.. due to the Shadowmask being finer.
When you are displaying an image designed to be displayed on a CRT... on to an LCD... you can tell that the colors are WAY too exaggerated and bright. This is because these games were designed for CRTs shadowmasks dimming effect... and so the signal is strong enough to account for that dimming.
There SHOULD be an option to change the color space and ranges... based on real CRT comparisons and CRT Data.
As for the Mask effects in these devices.. it really doesnt work like a real CRTs shadowmask.. and likely never will.
Even on the largest phosphor dots of a low-res arcade monitor.. you need a magnify glass to even see them fully. The kind of resolution to reproduce that level of scale is likely never going to be available to LCD based displays.
And of course, the Light Leak based color mixing.. still would have to be Emulated.. because the simulated mask, isnt going to re-create the light leak on its own.
If these creators would actually compare real world hardware results... they might actually get a LOT closer than the POOR quality reproduction attempts that we have today.
thank you for all of that information. while i dont think that this implementation is perfect nor is it a replace for crts, i do think they have a place and i am glad they exist.
i havent been playing with the settings much but i believe there has already been a few updates to these since i made this video
ya crts dosen't have vibrant colors at least some of them like hdtv do
@@Kage5868 You really didnt read / understand what I wrote. Actually, CRTs can be far Brighter than many modern displays. An example of this, is a Vector Monitor... such as seen in games like Asteroids Deluxe. No modern display, outside of an actual Laser lightshow projector.. can produce that level of brightness, as seen on a Vector Monitor.'
@@johndough8115 I found this one jvc crt on youtube you right they can be vibrant with excellent black level, but i never have good experience with a good crt in the past that's why i tend to just stuck with a nice hdtv, but i'm still looking for that one perfect crt
It's been shown that it will take over 12,000 PPI to properly reach the dot pitch & pixel density that CRTs are capable of, and that number is just for a 240p resolution beam with a standard 0.0080mm or so DP, trying to do the match for the PPI needed for a 0.0021mm DP with a 1440p resolution beam, I guess you could just say around 3x 12,000 PPI (so 36,000 PPI), will we see a modern full display monitor with that level of PPI/DP, a OLEDoS (OLED on silicone aka micro OLED) will have PPI/DP level in that range in just a few years sure, there are already prototype 8-9000 PPI 0.4" OLEDoS modules, which can almost display sprite based graphics as intended without so much as a single scanline shader needed to do so, as a result, just as with high-end CRT monitors with below 0.0035mm DP & 2MP+ resolutions, modern graphics also look incredible and infinitely superior on them compared to current standard chunky DP/low PPI monitors that you could park a bus in-between the subpixels.
I think first we will see handheld gaming consoles such as UMGPC's & Retro handhelds with displays capable of 12K @ 6" for an 11,000 PPI/0.0023mm DP, which is capable of correctly rendering 240p pixel/sprite based graphics without any shaders/filters/scanlines/etc, @ 16K/15,000 PPI (6" size display), it will be capable of displaying immaculate 360p and perhaps even 480p sprite graphics accurately, again without any aid from software filters etc, also modern graphics will look completely stunning, and you will be able to render lifelike objects/textures inside the game world, so say there was a small Ice sculpture in front of you, it could, if done properly by the devs/artist, look ultra realistic, as could skin tones, glass windows and so on, this is what true HD displays (High-Density) unlock, CRTs had 60 years of R&D, Electroluminescence displays (OLED/mLED/eQD
So i got just about what you have on the retrotink with my settings, but for some reason spyro 1 is an absolute fuzz, but the rest of the spyro games look amazing. Even with my loadouts made, i feel asif spyro 1 was made really fuzzy. But appreciate you and your settings, you gave me a major headstart on what settings to fix.
Thanks !!
Im not sure why spyro 1 specifically would be different. If you can upload photo or video somewhere, I'd be willing to take a look at it!
It's good to see, retrotink filter looks awesome. Maybe if my crt dies one day, I won't bother with another one...
The Spyro Trilogy are some of my favorite games.
The sky on the right is freaking purple while the left(crt) is freaking blue!
yes
i like the pvm 600 and customer-1 filters. how it looks on original crt is still hard to beat though, softer scanlines and colors except that spyro don't look as purple.
one of my hugest pet peeves with the CRT filter craze is that u notice, on the real crt, the scanlines are hardly noticeable to the naked eye and proper viewing distance. I got a cheap hdmi scanline generator a while back which has rgb knobs and dialed them all up to decrease the darkness of the lines for a more subtle look. also i hate how they look often patternistic where u can see the seems
Due to nostalgia, I will have to side with the CRT display. That's unless in the future Retrolink is able to fully revive the display back to an original CRT TV 100 %, and I assume the soundtrack quality is the same. Thanks for the comparison. It's hard to find a comparison with an upscaler device and a CRT TV showcasing one of the Classic Spyro games on UA-cam.
This made the perfect motion on the CRT so obvious vs the LCD, each time the little fly creature flapping its wings would switch over sides from the LCD to the CRT it went from fuzzy to crystal clear on the CRT, you could still see the detail on his wings etc, also none of those CRT emulation modes looked any good compared to the CRT's pretty much perfect IQ, that said if you choose just a simple scanline overlay on the LCD, it will look much better vs without it, you basically want both H scanlines and V scanlines, also this is only effective with RGB stripe monitors, so most LCS monitors are ok, but most OLED displays have totally different sub-pixel layouts which looks horrible with scanline filters, RGB-OLED monitors however look the best with scanlines (not to mention they have three sub-pixels to each pixel vs only two for non-RGB type), given how much closer to CRT they are, Super AMOLED displays have RGB stripe pixel layouts too.
I've been trying to get a retrotink-like look for PC (using ReShade shaders) but I haven't really found a match. I don't suppose anyone knows of something?
i don’t but i can look into it, it sounds interesting. are you talking about just general pc use? or using for pc games? if for games then modern or older? or even just for emulators? i think retroarch has some decent ones and i think it also has dosbox.
Hey, is it possible to have the retrotink 5x pro display 4:3 full screen? Cuz' when I tried to test it on my atari, it shrunk a bit like it didn't take the entire screen and idk what button or settings can fix that.
I'm not 100% that im following what you're asking, but try messing with the scaling options. I would go to 5X scale and see if that gives you what you want.
Some of this filters make the image blurrier then a crt
One day I hope to get one of these but man its expensive for me. I got a Retrotink 2X-Pro and it only has one option for scanlines, and they suck because it makes the screen too dark and colors dull. I need scanlines, sharp pixels are not to my taste. It also has a blur filter that I don’t like. And there was screen burn when I connected a console with 480i for only about an hour. I don’t remember seeing videos that talked about screen burn in their reviews. The 2x is not worth it for me.
oh wow i’ve never used the 2x but screen burn is unfortunate
I would prefer a comparison between a cheap consumer 500-lines slot mask TV and the same filters on the RetroTINK. 😅
Those games were designed for regular household which mostly had cheap TVs with slot masks. (Well... I sure never used anything else than cheap TVs... ...)
I bet Nintendo also had cheap TV to look at the end result... Maybe they had professionnal-grade CRTs, but, IMHO, those were useless to fine-tune the visuals for cheap TVs.
All video games are developed on what basically are custom PC's/workstations, these are coupled with reference grade monitors and projectors, for the SNES and N64 for instance, Nintendo use super high-end SGI workstations with 1600 TVL monitors, all games are colour calibrated and designed to look as good as possible, this way, even on a low-end CRT TV, the game will look consistent and still serviceable, they didn't just reduce the fidelity of their IP to cater for the lowest denominator, NES/SNES/Mega Drive games were able to look amazing on computer monitors and in fact the Mega Drive did have its own PC model with a full-fat high-resolution monitor, as did the Famicon that looks every bit as good as an Amiga computer does, the official Sega Sharp monitor (similar to Nintendo's NES/SNES Sharp RGB monitor, same tube was used in the NES TV that is internally hooked up via RGB) is over 800 TVL and the Mega Drive looks beautiful on it.
When it comes to releasing a game or announcing to game media for instance, Nintendo want their games to look as high quality and have as high fidelity as possible, all media and initial publicity of each game release relies on the games looking as good as possible in photos and videos for gaming publications and TV media, often there were strict guidelines when journalist outlets were given review/media packages of their games to use only high quality broadcast/pro monitors with 800-1000 TVL, most NES game review photos were captured from Nintendo's bespoke Sharp RGB monitor which has a built-in NES connected via RGB, that was at the time the only native hardware RGB NES available, and it really displayed NES games in their best light, they have something similar for the SNES, this is how Nintendo advertised their games and this displayed them to their best potential, which just goes to show Nintendo and all other game DEVS want mean for their games to look as close to reference quality as possible, that is to say as close to a nice 800 TVL BVM as the persons who are buying the game bank balance allows, most gamers couldn't afford the 800 TVL JVC D-Series CRTs or Sony's Super Black Trinitron CRT TV's, but even so the option was there.
All NES/SNES/N64/etc games look their best on professional reference grade BVM monitors, this is why they are reference displays in the first place, this is to maintain consistency and quality, all mainstream game DEVS work with the best highest IQ video equipment, the DEVs would never "fine tune" games for lower IQ TV sets as you said lol, it's just down to the quality of your equipment such as whether you are using composite or S-video/RGB, the TVL of your display plus dot-pitch, the source material is calibrated to look as good as possible and will look best on a reference grade PVM/BVM or a high-end TV, that said some people prefer the lower fidelity/TVL look, for this you just need to use a 240 TVL display, me personally my sweet spot is a 400 TVL shadow mask for 8-Bit and 16-Bit games @ 240p (I love how the SNES & Mega Drive looks on my 35" 4:3 Thomson Black Pearl CRT), but I also love the look of some content/games @ 800-1000 TVL on a pro aperture grill for some 240p games.
For Gamecube/OGXB, I love to use my 36" Panasonic SR Acuity superfine dot-pitch EDTV CRT, it's thanks to the game DEVS calibrating their games to look as close to perfection as possible that we can choose whether we want to play them on a standard 240p consumer CRT or a 1600 TVL CRT monitor, it no different today, game devs are still using reference grade pro video and audio gear to tweak their games and make them look as good as possible, but you the consumer get to choose what resolution or fidelity you lay the game at, though standards are nowhere near as high as they used to be, especially when it comes to audio, Nintendo and a handful of other DEVS being the exception to this rule, as they still actually have very high quality standards and a game going gold actually means something.
Hi I've just received my retrotink 5x and updated it to the the latest firmware but the polyphase and int Mod scanlines are nowhere to be seen in my options. Do you have any idea where I could find them?
some updates might have changed/ removed features shown in videos. you can always look for an earlier firmware and flash back to it.
Old comment, I know. I have an oled 4k tv and 5x. I use 2560x1440 (turn on advanced resolutions). Generic resolution. Bob scan line. Go down two settings find Bob setting on crt simulate. S. Gaussian scan line and grille-medium. Scan line settings 1, 5 for a lighter setting. To 5, 20 for a medium setting. 10, 50 for a heavier setting. Now it's very important to HDR on to counter the brightness loss and voila. Use sharp for 2d and soft for 3d games. Smooth on 480p content if you want.
Isn't it cheaper to just get a CRT?
haha yeah but that isn't really the point
10:49 you're stressing me out man, just get on the thing
lol i think i was trying to play off of recording preview and not the actual tv at that part
only OSSC worth buying its cheaper and only supports HQ analog signals only
But, OSSC requires console mods for NES and N64 which are 2 of the most important consoles in history, can't switch resolution well, and only has bob deinterlacing. So really, you're paying more for an OSSC than a 5x including console mods, a GBS to do the deinterlacing, an external S-video/composite input, and still won't get fast resolution switching.
@@seamistseamist Why did they stop making the Framemeister. You can't buy it anymore?
@@zonk1477 part shortages and stuff, and it has the price of just buy a retrotink 5x or ossc already, or maybe just get a crt they're basically literally free on facebook marketplace or anything else
Nahh, retrotink wins all the way dude.
@@saibot20194 Screw it, just get a crt from facebook marketplace or a random curb, steer clear of anything above 27 inches or curved trinitrons unless you can lift 100+lbs, into a vehicle, up some stairs, and up a full flight of stairs into an upstairs room
spyro look blue lol
fighting to have my camera look good vs accurate and then fighting having the direct capture look close to the camera vs good vs accurate was kind of hard.
he do be kinda blue tho