Got some of these for my Axial Wraith Spawn along with the optional Axial Hard Anodized Aluminum Pre-Load Collar (2pcs) excellent quality at a good price cheaper than the proline ones I was going to get.
I built the shock is that way I put for the piston in the tube shock and the I cover the treads with a thin plastics and slide the Orings and the spacer in that way don’t get micro cuts and a notice the last longer with not leaking! That is one of the most important thing !!
I really really need your help I'm trying to learn to refill shocks but,my piston doesn't come all the way to top the piston comes about quarter to eighth of an inch to the top,I can't just pushed it to top and while shock oil off.can you please help.
Most Damper pliers have a tapered stud on the inside of one of the arms, the opposite arm has a recessed hole, placing your part in this and closing, will safety remove those studs time and time again, Johns pliers here do not have this feature, mine cost me £8 from ebay, and well worth the purchase, because having the right (specific/specialist) tool means you never seem to use it. Cheers
My SCX10 shocks are leaking already after about a month. I never understood why they used plastic body shocks. The whole rest of the truck is a very solid rig right out of the box but the shocks are just a bad design
Isn't the point to have as much fluid in a shock as possible, hence having external reservoirs? I don't understand only filling them halfway. If you fill them and one hydrolocks you just take a tiny bit of fluid out...right?? Maybe I've been doing it wrong?
Respectfully, this was a good tutorial on the RIGHT way to build Shocks... And, I will NEVER Build a Shock WITHOUT Green Slime!!! It's that good. None of this seems to work on the Plastic Shocks that comes with the SCX10 II RAW Builder's Kit. I have literally tried every trick I've learned over 37 Years in the Hobby.... *THEY LEAK!* Badly. Only from the lower Seal Cap, not from the top. Worse than that, if left stationary for even only a half hour - they STICK!! Very badly. 😬😬😬 It's extremely frustrating, especially because I've taught Others over the Years. I've got GOOD, ProTech Shock Shaft Pliers, I only use TLR Shock Oil (I am like you, but used to Race for Team Losi).... CAN YOU HELP? I MUST be overlooking something STUPID! Are those Kit O-Rings junk? Does the spacer not compress the O-Rings enough?? Is it the Pistons? They're also from the Kit - removed from the Sprue with a fresh X-Acto Blade. I tried to also sand the outer edges smoother, with 600 grit Sandpaper - just until they made the full travel in the Tubes without binding anywhere.... Could it just be the PLASTIC Tubes themselves?? 😱 Are they just not molded correctly? Do I HAVE to get the Icon Aluminum Shock Tubes? THAT'S admitting that the Shocks that came with the Raw Builder's Kit are JUNK!!! That would also concur with a growing number of "popular" (which DOESN'T mean GOOD! Even though THEY think they are) Channels who are saying that the Kit Shocks are GARBAGE, and you shouldn't even bother building them! Except for Display purposes only. I don't know if you even LOOK at this anymore... But this RBK is only the second Axial Product I've had myself (although I've worked on others). It ALREADY had a problem with the M4X20 Set Screws that assemble the Links. FIVE of them *weren't cut for Threads!!* I had a Headache trying to source new Set Screws elsewhere - because I'm STILL waiting for replacements from Axial.... The best I could do was M4X16 - leaving some of my Links less than full strength!! I'm just not happy with the whole Experience. I'm a Disabled Veteran. This was a major purchase for me! Even if all the "cool kids" are snapping them up, along with $430 RTR Blazers, like they're candy. I expected better from Axial.... Carmine
Clear video, thank you. My build starts next week... SCX10II
I'm not into rc anymore. The video is from 3 years ago.
Got some of these for my Axial Wraith Spawn along with the optional Axial Hard Anodized Aluminum Pre-Load Collar (2pcs) excellent quality at a good price cheaper than the proline ones I was going to get.
Old video but more people should watch it before they crap on these shocks and buy aftermarket, Great tutorial sir!!
Thanks, chief! been refilling them all wrong every time! No wonder I get no compression.
I built the shock is that way I put for the piston in the tube shock and the I cover the treads with a thin plastics and slide the Orings and the spacer in that way don’t get micro cuts and a notice the last longer with not leaking! That is one of the most important thing !!
very informative! thank you!
Very informative!
I really really need your help I'm trying to learn to refill shocks but,my piston doesn't come all the way to top the piston comes about quarter to eighth of an inch to the top,I can't just pushed it to top and while shock oil off.can you please help.
very good video how do you like the shocks
Thanks bro
Hey John how do I get the pivot ball out of the eye lid ?
Most Damper pliers have a tapered stud on the inside of one of the arms, the opposite arm has a recessed hole, placing your part in this and closing, will safety remove those studs time and time again, Johns pliers here do not have this feature, mine cost me £8 from ebay, and well worth the purchase, because having the right (specific/specialist) tool means you never seem to use it. Cheers
My SCX10 shocks are leaking already after about a month. I never understood why they used plastic body shocks. The whole rest of the truck is a very solid rig right out of the box but the shocks are just a bad design
John your not the John Schultz from H-Street are you?
Isn't the point to have as much fluid in a shock as possible, hence having external reservoirs? I don't understand only filling them halfway. If you fill them and one hydrolocks you just take a tiny bit of fluid out...right?? Maybe I've been doing it wrong?
Axial Icon shocks are a fake piggyback reservoir shock
what grease you are using bro? and what is the best oil?
blackcall2 a tip it isn't grease and he is using 40 weight
why do you only fill it half way? i thought you were supposed to fill it all the way to the top
These shocks leak even with green slime used the tolerances aren’t tight enough on the o rings
If you are with Axial, then why don't you teach those who build the RTRs to build the SCX10 III shocks right so they don't leak everywhere?
Respectfully, this was a good tutorial on the RIGHT way to build Shocks... And, I will NEVER Build a Shock WITHOUT Green Slime!!! It's that good.
None of this seems to work on the Plastic Shocks that comes with the SCX10 II RAW Builder's Kit.
I have literally tried every trick I've learned over 37 Years in the Hobby....
*THEY LEAK!* Badly. Only from the lower Seal Cap, not from the top.
Worse than that, if left stationary for even only a half hour - they STICK!! Very badly. 😬😬😬
It's extremely frustrating, especially because I've taught Others over the Years. I've got GOOD, ProTech Shock Shaft Pliers, I only use TLR Shock Oil (I am like you, but used to Race for Team Losi)....
CAN YOU HELP? I MUST be overlooking something STUPID! Are those Kit O-Rings junk? Does the spacer not compress the O-Rings enough??
Is it the Pistons? They're also from the Kit - removed from the Sprue with a fresh X-Acto Blade. I tried to also sand the outer edges smoother, with 600 grit Sandpaper - just until they made the full travel in the Tubes without binding anywhere....
Could it just be the PLASTIC Tubes themselves?? 😱 Are they just not molded correctly? Do I HAVE to get the Icon Aluminum Shock Tubes?
THAT'S admitting that the Shocks that came with the Raw Builder's Kit are JUNK!!! That would also concur with a growing number of "popular" (which DOESN'T mean GOOD! Even though THEY think they are) Channels who are saying that the Kit Shocks are GARBAGE, and you shouldn't even bother building them! Except for Display purposes only.
I don't know if you even LOOK at this anymore... But this RBK is only the second Axial Product I've had myself (although I've worked on others). It ALREADY had a problem with the M4X20 Set Screws that assemble the Links. FIVE of them *weren't cut for Threads!!* I had a Headache trying to source new Set Screws elsewhere - because I'm STILL waiting for replacements from Axial....
The best I could do was M4X16 - leaving some of my Links less than full strength!! I'm just not happy with the whole Experience.
I'm a Disabled Veteran. This was a major purchase for me! Even if all the "cool kids" are snapping them up, along with $430 RTR Blazers, like they're candy.
I expected better from Axial....
Carmine
you are recommended by axial.. rad
Perdono olio e basta
This barley helped