This is just what I need. Making chairs requires the work at many different levels and this will fil the bill. I have the book on order and am looking forward to getting this project under way. Best part is the engineering is already done. Excellent video.
WELL DONE, Mr DeVries ! A truly excellent job. I like your careful approach, the thinking ahead. the painstaking excution and the ingenuity tha allows you to solve problems neatly and without fuss.
Instructables currently has a "made with one board" contest. You should read the rules and enter. This is amazing. I wish that Marius would put some plans. You provided so much detail. Thanks for this!
Michael, I have now finished my plan book and it is up on Amazon as of March 29, 2022. The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build (there are slight differences between the two). I will be posting a video soon that goes over all my improvements and upgrades, as well as having links to the hardware I used, but for now, here is the link to the book if you are still interested : www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
A very compesensive video. You made it very enjoyable to watch. Thanks for not having some loud boring music. I think I should be able to make one now. Thumbs up.
Amazing video. Thanks for sharing your idea and all the good comments throughout the video. Now, I'm going to assemble all the pieces I will need and start my own lift table.
Really nicely done. Some excellent tips in there too. I like the pex bushings as well as the tip about putting a pin in the waste board for the drill press. Kudos!
I like your modifications which bring it into my budget range. When using a hack saw, as soon as you pull back on the saw with pressure, you dull the saw blade. You can cut faster by moving the saw back with no down ward pressure and forward with pressure. So you make less strokes and they don't need to be as fast and your blade will saw many pieces before it needs replacing.
This is an inspiring addition to Marius' video. I have a good supply of hardwood that I obtained at no cost, but the separate wear top is a very good idea that I will take if I make one of these. The method of ensuring perfect alignment in the holes is also excellent and something I can use. Thanks for the extra ideas!
Very nice project! Thank you for the video. I dont have an immediate need for on, but I am contemplating making a 1/4 scale version. I nrrd something like that to raise and lower the table of my ancient drill press.
I actually built a 1/2 sized version for my own use. I use it as a table extension for my benchtop drill press if I have larger pieces I need to drill. I have made a lot of updates to the design and those updates are integrated into the plan book linked below. Link to the new video : ua-cam.com/video/KT79bRcNWkE/v-deo.html Link to the instructions available at Amazon : www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20GTFPMISU9WO&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1654367699&sprefix=s.g.%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-1
Great job. I also saw Marius build his and it was great but my guess would be pretty exspensive and like you I don’t have access to all those tools. So thanks for showing another more affordable way to build a great project.
Im not a englisch mann so here it goes : Drill a hole into the nut you want to rotate put a metal stick threw the hole and glue or weld it . cut a nut in the middle with a saw to match the "stick" u want to rotate . Put the nut on a fitting cordless powertool and u dont have to turn for half an hour to get it up and down , nice table !
Thanks for the comment! I am in the process of writing out the instructions with a bunch of design and material upgrades that will make it much more professional looking (hardwood and metal bushings, etc...), and much stronger. I hope to have it out by the end of the summer, but that is just a target with no hard date. Summer time schedules tend to get a bit fuzzy...
could you use a drill to do the height adjusment instead of manual hand lever? kitchen cabinets is the same exact reason i would need this type of table (:
Link to the updated video: ua-cam.com/video/KT79bRcNWkE/v-deo.html Link to the plan book : www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5 The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build (there are some differences between the two). It is 146 pages and gives step-by-step instructions with over 250 photos showing every step from start to finish. I had to make a lot of upgrades to both the design and the hardware so that it was fit to be published. Please note that due to the required upgrades, it can no longer be built from a single sheet of plywood, you will need two sheets If you are familiar with my other plans, you will know that I do not mess around and try to get away with as little work as possible on my end. I photograph and detail out everything. Every single step has photos and written instructions, from the first cut to the final screw and shows the entire process that I use. I do realize that not everyone needs or wants the level of instruction that I provide. However, since there are so many different levels of experience and confidence out there in the woodworking community, and I want my instructions to be understandable to everyone, I choose to err on the side of giving too much guidance rather than not enough. If you have actually read this far, thank you. It takes far more time and effort to write these instruction books than I will ever get back in return, so I would sincerely appreciate any likes, shares, or perhaps even a purchase. Thanks for your time. S.G. DeVries
sketch it up, put in giant letters DO NOT BUILD OR USE OR YOU WILL DIE AND OR BE SERIOUSLY INJURED AND IT WILL CAUSE GREAT SUFFERING designs and drawings are for information only and any one who reads them must consult with a licensed professional engineer and architect and get a letter of suitability and liability from each of them before continuing to read the drawings. All designs details drawings concepts plans and ideas are copyright the creator and you may not build without written notarized authorization that pretty much covers everything lol
Hi from Norway, I would love to have the plans or just the cutting plans, so I can make a 3D model for a friend who is going to build a pop-up cooler for his small cabin 😊 have you made anything and how much do you charge? Regarding lawsuits, that only applies to America I think. Nobody would do that here! 😁
Better late than never. The plans are now available. I have posted a pinned comment with the link and will be posting a new video soon showing of the upgraded table. Thanks.
Richard, yes, the plans are now available (after a long delay on my part). I have made a lot of upgrades to the table and quite a few design changes to fix a lot of things I did wrong on this first table. Anyway, the plan book is available at Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5 The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build. Thanks for the comment.
Complete plans and instructions are available here : www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=8Q0XPH61AIDZ&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1654367444&sprefix=s.g.+dev%2Caps%2C619&sr=8-1 The plans have both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the full drawings for both a plywood and a hardwood build. There are step-by-step photos for the entire build. Link to the new video : ua-cam.com/video/KT79bRcNWkE/v-deo.html
Regarding the cut list shown at about 0:48 into your video, can you say the name and measurements of these parts? I cannot read them in the video. 1. Small rectangular pieces next to part "Long beam wheel rails" 2. Small round pieces under part "Top crank beam reinforcement" 3. Small rectangular pieces next to part "Bottom scissor braces" Thanks. Great project and video!
Ron, I have now finished my plans for a vastly upgraded design and they are available at Amazon. I have a pinned comment at the top with the link, but the book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5 However, this upgraded design can no longer be built from a single sheet of plywood, you will need two. I made a lot of mistakes on this first table and can't really recommend anyone build it the way that is shown in this video. I will be putting out a new video soon with my new table showing off all the upgrades. Thanks for the comment.
I'm going to end up having to build several of these... One for myself, one for my mom, and one for each of my sister's... he'll, let's just put my dad and brother on the list, too. My two bits to add are as follows... I'ld add a handle to each end. The threaded shaft with the nuts on each end, I would drill and peen a locking pin through rather than depend on lockwashers. I would include a removable handle. I would also install a battery powered drill on the backside of the screw, and arrange the 3 position switch on the handle to allow powered use without needing a cord. A cordless drill from harbor freight will do just fine, at 20 bucks a pop. If need be, drill and tap a hole into the end of the threaded rod and locktite a smaller screw shaft for the drill to clamp on to directly, or drill and peen a locking pin here as well.
Yes. Screws would also work, to some extent. With plywood however, I prefer to use dowel pins. Torsion forces on the frame can crack plywood because a screw isn't bonded to the wood at all, but the dowel pins are coated in glue which holds things together better, in my opinion. If the frame members were thicker/heavier, this wouldn't be an issue and screws would work just as well as dowel pins. Thanks for the comment.
Hi, at 4:44 you show drilling the holes at the end of the scissor arms. What measurement from center did you use for those? I have seen these drilled dead center of the scissor arms too and that seemed effective. Did you ever finish plans?
I have watched a number of your presentations and MOST of everything you design and build makes good sense except one point I cannot understand. When you built this lifting table you offset the holes on the ends of the arms, one above center and the other end below center, can you explain the math behind that?
Hello! The very concept if the lifting table is inspiring. Now, putting so much effort into a project using plywood which, generally won't last too long; seems a waste. There are so many amateurs out there who are really talented, so it probably would be better to use old mature and seasoned scrap wood for the project. This would of course be somewhat tedious but it's one way to learn that hard work pays for itself.
I was watching Marius making his version a couple of hours ago. Even Marius with his German precision made an error with the end holes on his scissor beams, the radius was about 1 - 1.5mm out of allaignment.
If you look at the last image of the video you can see how the offset holes line up to push the pivot point to the top of the joint. That would make the joint collapse lower than if it was in the middle.
I’m confused about the threaded rod on the tail end. How many nuts are used? I see 2 with a Lock washer between them. I think there is also one embedded in the pull beam. Can you explain this better for me. I love the design.
Hi Keth. I'm also confused and not sure if about the same thing. There seems to be missing an explanation about the block being pulled somehwere between the end tail and the front tail. Otherwise how could the scissors legs be lifted? That's the part I'm missimg...
Great video! I don't understand why you made a big deal out of making this from 1 sheet of plywood; apparently at the expense of strength & rigidity. I liked the applications you spoke of the the end! I have a 150lb sander; how would I make this stronger to accommodate this beast?
Hi Steve. Real smart idea to drill the holes in one board and swing it around to make the hols exact same distance from center. Great instruction on building this table. Is the plywood 1" thick? I'm thinking of using 2 laminated layers of 5/8" maple plywood for the scissors arms. Cheers, Jim
Jim, I used standard 3/4" plywood for this version of the table, although, I didn't use as high of quality plywood as I should have. I used a standard hardwood veneer plywood that has the softer core when I should have used a cabinet/furniture grade plywood. In the book I actually use triple thick plywood for the scissor arms. I do suspect that I over-engineered a bit, but I wanted to err on the side of over-engineering rather than under-engineering everything.
I needed the extra lift. I originally built it as a cabinet jack to hang kitchen cabinets, but now that I have built an upgraded version, I also use it to take things like wood slabs and heavy things off of higher shelves.
I'll repeat the question with fingers crossed. Could you share the cut list and required hardware list??? I have waited on the original builder for to long. This could really help me with several shop related issues.
So one has to buy your book to get the schematics and details? Suggestion: change the title to one more appropriate. "Scissor lift table from a single sheet of plywood + $29.99 for my book on how to do it." Also, it was apparent that you used all of the plywood 0:49 on your initial design. From what did you use for the reinforcement pieces 9:20 you added to your design later? As well as the two pieces of hardwood collar 13:09?
This is very cool. Too bad plywood prices have skyrocketed. What size bolts did you use? Any links to some of the hardware? I tried to find those bearings to no avail. Maybe I didn't use the right search term. I would have liked to have seen where the wheels went (although, it's possible I missed that part).
Here are the bearings: www.amazon.com/XiKe-Set-Wheel-Bearings-SET2/dp/B087ZY98MR/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F4+tapered+bearing&qid=1624492089&sr=8-4 Or you can just Amazon search for "3/4 tapered bearing" and that will get you lots of results also. As for the bolts, I used 1/4" but I am upgrading those to heavier bolts for the upcoming instructions that I am working on. In retrospect, 1/4" really aren't big enough. Thanks for the comment.
I wish I had to . An inexperienced video-makers mistake. I hope to build this table again but out of hardwood and correct/upgrade all those things I wish I could have done on this one. Thanks for the comment!
@@s.g.devries8557 why the change to hardwood and by "correct" that implies mistakes were made. what do you mean exactly? Is someone going to injure themselves by trying to duplicate this project??? It's been more than a year since you published this video. People have been asking for longer than that.
Hi there, brilliant job thanks for inspiring. I just finished building my own one. I've got a question for you. I noticed your studding goes from the front all the way through the back panel. Other people have done with the rod being shorter, only past the block being pulled. I've followed your version and the studding starts to bend as the scissors frame is raised. I reckon that's why other people made a rotating block so to be adapt to the new angle. Can you explain what solved this issue in your design so I can rectify mine? Thanks a lot. Shlomi
Can someone explain the types of bearings to get? I don't understand how the rods and bearings interact? Why did he choose a tapered and a non tapered bearing? why isn't there a thread in the hearings for the rod to twist against?
The back bearing is just keeping the rod in place. It's not absorbing any actual force involved in lifting the cart, so it just has a non tapered bearing, as it has no axial load (axial load is along the length of the shaft, radial is perpendicular to the shaft). Honestly, you could probably build this out of all sorts of sketchy materials, as it's not really supporting any load. Just the weight of the threaded rod itself, and reducing the friction of turning the rod. The front bearing, near the handle, is being pulled INTO the machine, as the rod is being pulled back into the cart by the arms which want to collapse and lower the table. It is supporting the entirety of the force needed to lift and hold the cart's table, and it's super important. It has a tapered bearing, so the bearing can oppose the force causing the cart to collapse (which would pull the threaded rod away from the crank and into the cart body, as the threaded rod is pulling the arms towards the middle of the cart). A non tapered bearing wouldn't be able resist the rod being pulled rod along it's length, and would likely fail quickly.
Hi, nice job! :) ... is the hole on the end of the arms 1/3 apart from one side? I read it is for leverage purpose. Is my deduction right? Thanks for your answer and go on, you are doing very well!! (clapping hands) :)
I don't remember off-hand what the hole offset was, but you are correct that it is for leverage purposes. This only really matters when the table is at its lowest point though. Thanks for the inquiry!
The plans are now available if you are interested. There have been a lot of design upgrades and improvements from this older design. www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=161R82ZPI4EPS&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1650498968&sprefix=s.g.+devries%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-1
Hello, Thanks for posting this build. I would ALSO like to get a set of plans for this. Have uses for it at home. Let us know when we can get the plans.
Anybody know what size threaded rod he's using? I'd love a full hardware list, but this is the main thing. Also (side-note): Couldn't you just really use small small PVC for the wooden pieces under the table that the rod simply turns through (both ends) Thought here is that this is not really going to be something that thousands of times spins around, just a few dozens of turns per table rise and lower. Anyway: Mainly, what size threaded rod please?
@@s.g.devries8557 I have started a tiny version of this as a test (just out of a piece of craft wood). I have a need for this and excited to have found it. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the comment Pratap. If you interested in plans, I have made a lot of upgrades and the plans are now available. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
I do not sell completed tables, but you can purchase the instruction book here (has both Imperial and Metric dimensions): www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20GTFPMISU9WO&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1654367699&sprefix=s.g.%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-1
Kenneth, I have now finished my plan book and it is up on Amazon as of March 29, 2022. The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build (there are some slight differences between the two). I will be posting a video soon that goes over all of my improvements and upgrades, but in the meantime, if you are still interested, here is the link: www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
Andrej Zhirnyj I have not tested it. Since I used plywood and 1/4” bolts I knew it wouldn’t be heavy duty. It did handle the ceiling heater I took down quite well and that was about 100 pounds but I wouldn’t want to go much heavier.
I am working on them, but they are taking longer than I would like due to general life circumstances. The book is written, which contains the full plans and instructions in both Imperial and metric units, as well as the plywood cut sheets, and also the scale drawings for building out of hardwood. I am currently working on the hardwood table because there are some differences between building out of plywood and building out of hardwood, and I need the photos of the hardwood build to finish off the book. I had hoped to have it published by the end of summer 2021, and that obviously didn't happen. I would expect a couple more months. Thanks for asking.
Oliver, I have pinned a new comment at the top of the video about the plans, which are now available at Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5 It took me longer than I wanted to get them done, but now they are finished, and they are very detailed with step-by-step photos for everything. Thanks for the comment.
You know, if you just pause the video at .57 seconds, you could have basically all you need. A list of all parts, dimensions, and layout on a sheet of ply. Just remember to double up the arms, as mentioned his initial build was nowhere near stiff enough. But personally, I think this is a pretty silly way to do it. Plywood is really not suited to long strips with a lot of force applied to them. Plywood makes a great shear panel and a very attractive uniform surface, but it's just not for this one dimensional loading, as half the grain is running the wrong way, making it basically useless for adding strength and stiffness. Really, personally, I would be tempted to just use steel flat bar. This would be MUCH stiffer and stronger, and you could get comparable weight to 1.5x36x3.5 inch oak bars while having vastly better performance. Or just use some dimensional lumber. The gap between the stiffness of oak and even a relatively weak softwood like yellow or white pine will not be so extreme that you get better strength per volume using oak ply, let alone strength to weight. A good softwood, or any dimensional hardwood, will almost certainly be signficantly stiffer. TLDR: if you build this, don't use ply for the arms. There's a lot of great ideas, from the pex bushings to the garage door track wheels but ply is not the right material for this project.
I agree with you. Plywood is not the ideal material and it definitely puts weight limitations on the table. If I was going to use it for heavy loads I would build it out of hardwood, or at least a furniture grade plywood which is stronger. Since I only needed it for light duty, and cost was a major issue, I elected to go a cheaper route and use plywood. I would like to rebuild it some day out of hardwood.
Yes thanks I have tried and it can be done but it is way hard. It hard to read, and so one. For one reason or another I can't seem to find a plan For one simmer not sure why. ? If you can that would be great but if you don't I get it. Thanks for your time Dennis
What you should do is make it so a person can attach their waist to the platform and bound their feet on the ground and attach a screwdriver to make it move up and down So people can have a automatic crouching exerciser that makes the legs go from the ground to standing Hundreds of million of people need a automatic leg croucher machine From babies to adults When I. Was young i got arthritis in my legs because my family didn't move me enough and left me in poor conditions If there was a automatic leg croucher it would have treated me and made blood circualte in my legs
Beautiful project ... Nice explanations ..... Just checked out your videos .. Not many there but if you continue can see many many more subscribers to your channel. SUBSCRIBED! Keep up the good work. #669
This is just what I need. Making chairs requires the work at many different levels and this will fil the bill. I have the book on order and am looking forward to getting this project under way. Best part is the engineering is already done. Excellent video.
WELL DONE, Mr DeVries ! A truly excellent job. I like your careful approach, the thinking ahead. the painstaking excution and the ingenuity tha allows you to solve problems neatly and without fuss.
Instructables currently has a "made with one board" contest. You should read the rules and enter. This is amazing. I wish that Marius would put some plans.
You provided so much detail. Thanks for this!
Michael, I have now finished my plan book and it is up on Amazon as of March 29, 2022. The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build (there are slight differences between the two). I will be posting a video soon that goes over all my improvements and upgrades, as well as having links to the hardware I used, but for now, here is the link to the book if you are still interested : www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
@@s.g.devries8557 thanks. I'll have a look.
A very compesensive video. You made it very enjoyable to watch. Thanks for not having some loud boring music. I think I should be able to make one now. Thumbs up.
What a brillant idea! I love it also the careful approach with integrity getting the job done.
Amazing video. Thanks for sharing your idea and all the good comments throughout the video. Now, I'm going to assemble all the pieces I will need and start my own lift table.
Really nicely done. Some excellent tips in there too. I like the pex bushings as well as the tip about putting a pin in the waste board for the drill press. Kudos!
This came out so nice, I also have wanted to make one ...
Could put up a cut list and plans. ?
Mabe ?
Thanks for the build
I like your modifications which bring it into my budget range. When using a hack saw, as soon as you pull back on the saw with pressure, you dull the saw blade. You can cut faster by moving the saw back with no down ward pressure and forward with pressure. So you make less strokes and they don't need to be as fast and your blade will saw many pieces before it needs replacing.
This is an inspiring addition to Marius' video. I have a good supply of hardwood that I obtained at no cost, but the separate wear top is a very good idea that I will take if I make one of these. The method of ensuring perfect alignment in the holes is also excellent and something I can use. Thanks for the extra ideas!
444
Wow! That's really a well thought out project and very inexpensive components.
Great project, you should be proud of your work!
Great job....... good for saving the back and bringing items up from the floor to work on.
Very nice project! Thank you for the video. I dont have an immediate need for on, but I am contemplating making a 1/4 scale version. I nrrd something like that to raise and lower the table of my ancient drill press.
I actually built a 1/2 sized version for my own use. I use it as a table extension for my benchtop drill press if I have larger pieces I need to drill. I have made a lot of updates to the design and those updates are integrated into the plan book linked below.
Link to the new video : ua-cam.com/video/KT79bRcNWkE/v-deo.html
Link to the instructions available at Amazon : www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20GTFPMISU9WO&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1654367699&sprefix=s.g.%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-1
it was so lovely to watch the video you shared
Great job. I also saw Marius build his and it was great but my guess would be pretty exspensive and like you I don’t have access to all those tools. So thanks for showing another more affordable way to build a great project.
200 euros. It is really nice, but frankly, massively overbuilt.
Excellent presentation and workmanship. Thank you.
Im not a englisch mann so here it goes : Drill a hole into the nut you want to rotate put a metal stick threw the hole and glue or weld it . cut a nut in the middle with a saw to match the "stick" u want to rotate . Put the nut on a fitting cordless powertool and u dont have to turn for half an hour to get it up and down , nice table !
Great project and well described. And it is so wonderful (and rare) to see safety equipment used on tools.
Wow, it's perfect! I'm looking at this design for a coffee table that I can raise into a workstation for sewing or painting or other crafts.
Thanks for the comment! I am in the process of writing out the instructions with a bunch of design and material upgrades that will make it much more professional looking (hardwood and metal bushings, etc...), and much stronger. I hope to have it out by the end of the summer, but that is just a target with no hard date. Summer time schedules tend to get a bit fuzzy...
@@s.g.devries8557 fuzzy? At this point you should go with completely furry.
Great going to make for my shop will come in very handy thanks!!!!!!
I need this, because kitchen cabinets. I would adapt lead screw so you can power it with a drill.
Another nice build. Your channel definitely deserves more views and subs.
Peter Bestel thank you sir for your kind words. Whether I have 5 views or 5000, it is nice to know my work is appreciated.
@@s.g.devries8557 please make an eBook with your dimensions! I'll buy one.
@@s.g.devries8557
Do you sell them?
If so How much ?
I don't have all the toys to make one
Awesome video by the way. Very inspiring.
Awesome work. My father would have loved this. I on the other hand do not have the OCD capacity to build it.😊
I very much appreciate this video. Considering building a couple scaled up using angle iron.
I would have so much use for this. Look forward to seeing if the plans are released.
could you use a drill to do the height adjusment instead of manual hand lever?
kitchen cabinets is the same exact reason i would need this type of table (:
Nicely done and well presented!! Look forward to future videos!!
Is there resistance when you are raising it with some weight on it?
Cenię ludzi którzy coś robią i dzielą się tym z innymi. Pozdrawiam z Bułgarii
Thank you sir for your kind comments. (Real happy for google translate!)
@@s.g.devries8557 It sure makes life better and more interesting! Google Lens is another handy resource! Your project and video are great! Thanks!
Nice job and excellent attention to detail
With every thing said it would really be nice to have a set of plans
Approximately how much weight do you believe this table can hold safely?
Link to the updated video: ua-cam.com/video/KT79bRcNWkE/v-deo.html
Link to the plan book : www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build (there are some differences between the two). It is 146 pages and gives step-by-step instructions with over 250 photos showing every step from start to finish.
I had to make a lot of upgrades to both the design and the hardware so that it was fit to be published. Please note that due to the required upgrades, it can no longer be built from a single sheet of plywood, you will need two sheets
If you are familiar with my other plans, you will know that I do not mess around and try to get away with as little work as possible on my end. I photograph and detail out everything. Every single step has photos and written instructions, from the first cut to the final screw and shows the entire process that I use.
I do realize that not everyone needs or wants the level of instruction that I provide. However, since there are so many different levels of experience and confidence out there in the woodworking community, and I want my instructions to be understandable to everyone, I choose to err on the side of giving too much guidance rather than not enough.
If you have actually read this far, thank you. It takes far more time and effort to write these instruction books than I will ever get back in return, so I would sincerely appreciate any likes, shares, or perhaps even a purchase. Thanks for your time.
S.G. DeVries
sketch it up, put in giant letters
DO NOT BUILD OR USE OR YOU WILL DIE AND OR BE SERIOUSLY INJURED AND IT WILL CAUSE GREAT SUFFERING
designs and drawings are for information only and any one who reads them must consult with a licensed professional engineer and architect and get a letter of suitability and liability from each of them before continuing to read the drawings. All designs details drawings concepts plans and ideas are copyright the creator and you may not build without written notarized authorization
that pretty much covers everything lol
Totally understand, with this "eager to sue society" instead of looking in the mirror at the fool.
Any progress on plans to share?
Hi from Norway, I would love to have the plans or just the cutting plans, so I can make a 3D model for a friend who is going to build a pop-up cooler for his small cabin 😊 have you made anything and how much do you charge? Regarding lawsuits, that only applies to America I think. Nobody would do that here! 😁
Better late than never. The plans are now available. I have posted a pinned comment with the link and will be posting a new video soon showing of the upgraded table. Thanks.
Such great work do you have plans and cut list.thank you
very good project are the plans available
Richard, yes, the plans are now available (after a long delay on my part). I have made a lot of upgrades to the table and quite a few design changes to fix a lot of things I did wrong on this first table. Anyway, the plan book is available at Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build. Thanks for the comment.
Great job. I have to make one for my shop. Were could I get the drawings or dimensions you used. Thank you.
Does anyone know about how much weight it will lift? Approximately
I can’t read the dimensions for all the pieces as laid out on the full 4’ x 8’ sheet. Would you please provide me with a clear pic of the layout.
Complete plans and instructions are available here : www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=8Q0XPH61AIDZ&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1654367444&sprefix=s.g.+dev%2Caps%2C619&sr=8-1
The plans have both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the full drawings for both a plywood and a hardwood build. There are step-by-step photos for the entire build.
Link to the new video : ua-cam.com/video/KT79bRcNWkE/v-deo.html
Regarding the cut list shown at about 0:48 into your video, can you say the name and measurements of these parts? I cannot read them in the video.
1. Small rectangular pieces next to part "Long beam wheel rails"
2. Small round pieces under part "Top crank beam reinforcement"
3. Small rectangular pieces next to part "Bottom scissor braces"
Thanks. Great project and video!
Ron, I have now finished my plans for a vastly upgraded design and they are available at Amazon. I have a pinned comment at the top with the link, but the book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
However, this upgraded design can no longer be built from a single sheet of plywood, you will need two. I made a lot of mistakes on this first table and can't really recommend anyone build it the way that is shown in this video. I will be putting out a new video soon with my new table showing off all the upgrades. Thanks for the comment.
I'm going to end up having to build several of these... One for myself, one for my mom, and one for each of my sister's... he'll, let's just put my dad and brother on the list, too.
My two bits to add are as follows...
I'ld add a handle to each end.
The threaded shaft with the nuts on each end, I would drill and peen a locking pin through rather than depend on lockwashers.
I would include a removable handle.
I would also install a battery powered drill on the backside of the screw, and arrange the 3 position switch on the handle to allow powered use without needing a cord. A cordless drill from harbor freight will do just fine, at 20 bucks a pop. If need be, drill and tap a hole into the end of the threaded rod and locktite a smaller screw shaft for the drill to clamp on to directly, or drill and peen a locking pin here as well.
Great Video, but the detailed cutting plan is a bit blurry. Are you able to post the plan as a pdf?
This was a pretty one 🙂
Have a clearer picture of the cut sheet? Great video. Need to make this
This may sound like a stupid question, but instead of wood pins, would screws, nails or bolts do the trick and it's just an asthetics thing ?
Yes. Screws would also work, to some extent. With plywood however, I prefer to use dowel pins. Torsion forces on the frame can crack plywood because a screw isn't bonded to the wood at all, but the dowel pins are coated in glue which holds things together better, in my opinion. If the frame members were thicker/heavier, this wouldn't be an issue and screws would work just as well as dowel pins. Thanks for the comment.
Have you determined a maximum lift weight for this lift table?
Hi, at 4:44 you show drilling the holes at the end of the scissor arms. What measurement from center did you use for those? I have seen these drilled dead center of the scissor arms too and that seemed effective. Did you ever finish plans?
I have watched a number of your presentations and MOST of everything you design and build makes good sense except one point I cannot understand. When you built this lifting table you offset the holes on the ends of the arms, one above center and the other end below center, can you explain the math behind that?
Hello!
The very concept if the lifting table is inspiring.
Now, putting so much effort into a project using plywood which, generally won't last too long; seems a waste.
There are so many amateurs out there who are really talented, so it probably would be better to use old mature and seasoned scrap wood for the project.
This would of course be somewhat tedious but it's one way to learn that hard work pays for itself.
Wish I had a need and room for this to justify building one.
Your table and Marius's table is the difference between the German precision and that of the rest of the world...lol....great job
I was watching Marius making his version a couple of hours ago. Even Marius with his German precision made an error with the end holes on his scissor beams, the radius was about 1 - 1.5mm out of allaignment.
What are the bare minimum power tools you think to build something like this?
This was a great video, I would like to make one of these. Haveyou thought about putting a material & cut list out for this?
If you look at the last image of the video you can see how the offset holes line up to push the pivot point to the top of the joint. That would make the joint collapse lower than if it was in the middle.
Great design and execution. Do you have plans available?
BEAUTIFUL WORK and the drawings can I ask YOU?
I’m confused about the threaded rod on the tail end. How many nuts are used? I see 2 with a Lock washer between them. I think there is also one embedded in the pull beam. Can you explain this better for me. I love the design.
Hi Keth. I'm also confused and not sure if about the same thing. There seems to be missing an explanation about the block being pulled somehwere between the end tail and the front tail. Otherwise how could the scissors legs be lifted? That's the part I'm missimg...
Great video! I don't understand why you made a big deal out of making this from 1 sheet of plywood; apparently at the expense of strength & rigidity. I liked the applications you spoke of the the end! I have a 150lb sander; how would I make this stronger to accommodate this beast?
Hi Steve. Real smart idea to drill the holes in one board and swing it around to make the hols exact same distance from center.
Great instruction on building this table. Is the plywood 1" thick? I'm thinking of using 2 laminated layers of 5/8" maple plywood for the scissors arms.
Cheers, Jim
Jim, I used standard 3/4" plywood for this version of the table, although, I didn't use as high of quality plywood as I should have. I used a standard hardwood veneer plywood that has the softer core when I should have used a cabinet/furniture grade plywood. In the book I actually use triple thick plywood for the scissor arms. I do suspect that I over-engineered a bit, but I wanted to err on the side of over-engineering rather than under-engineering everything.
Great build, very well documented. Thank you for sharing your time and talent! You don't have detailed plans available do you?
why have you made it with for cisor arma on each side ? Woldn´t two cisor arms do it as well, or is it ecause you want to get it up head higt ???? :-o
I needed the extra lift. I originally built it as a cabinet jack to hang kitchen cabinets, but now that I have built an upgraded version, I also use it to take things like wood slabs and heavy things off of higher shelves.
I'll repeat the question with fingers crossed. Could you share the cut list and required hardware list???
I have waited on the original builder for to long.
This could really help me with several shop related issues.
So one has to buy your book to get the schematics and details? Suggestion: change the title to one more appropriate. "Scissor lift table from a single sheet of plywood + $29.99 for my book on how to do it." Also, it was apparent that you used all of the plywood 0:49 on your initial design. From what did you use for the reinforcement pieces 9:20 you added to your design later? As well as the two pieces of hardwood collar 13:09?
excellent job how much it cost this lift table
When I built it, the cost was around $100 U.S. dollars. Right now wood is more expensive (at least here it is). Thanks for watching.
Wood definitely be interested in a cut list and plans.
Plans are in progress. Going slower than I would like, but still progress.
@@s.g.devries8557 Thank you for the update
Did you give up on the parts list or plans? Or having trouble finding a publisher for the book?
Great job and a great project for my workshop do you think I could get a set of plans for the lift table?
This is very cool. Too bad plywood prices have skyrocketed. What size bolts did you use? Any links to some of the hardware? I tried to find those bearings to no avail. Maybe I didn't use the right search term. I would have liked to have seen where the wheels went (although, it's possible I missed that part).
Here are the bearings: www.amazon.com/XiKe-Set-Wheel-Bearings-SET2/dp/B087ZY98MR/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F4+tapered+bearing&qid=1624492089&sr=8-4
Or you can just Amazon search for "3/4 tapered bearing" and that will get you lots of results also. As for the bolts, I used 1/4" but I am upgrading those to heavier bolts for the upcoming instructions that I am working on. In retrospect, 1/4" really aren't big enough. Thanks for the comment.
Are you only able to extend the links up to a 45 degree angle?
Great but I really wish you would have shown the inner workings of the lead screw once the things holding it were in place.
I wish I had to . An inexperienced video-makers mistake. I hope to build this table again but out of hardwood and correct/upgrade all those things I wish I could have done on this one. Thanks for the comment!
S.G. DeVries hey it’s all good. It’s a great table!
@@s.g.devries8557 why the change to hardwood and by "correct" that implies mistakes were made. what do you mean exactly? Is someone going to injure themselves by trying to duplicate this project??? It's been more than a year since you published this video. People have been asking for longer than that.
actually bought the book
Hi there, brilliant job thanks for inspiring. I just finished building my own one. I've got a question for you. I noticed your studding goes from the front all the way through the back panel. Other people have done with the rod being shorter, only past the block being pulled. I've followed your version and the studding starts to bend as the scissors frame is raised. I reckon that's why other people made a rotating block so to be adapt to the new angle. Can you explain what solved this issue in your design so I can rectify mine? Thanks a lot. Shlomi
Very impressive!
Nice job...Im inspired. Guessing you threaded the wheel shafts, yes?
Very nicely done. Thank you.
Can someone explain the types of bearings to get? I don't understand how the rods and bearings interact? Why did he choose a tapered and a non tapered bearing? why isn't there a thread in the hearings for the rod to twist against?
The back bearing is just keeping the rod in place. It's not absorbing any actual force involved in lifting the cart, so it just has a non tapered bearing, as it has no axial load (axial load is along the length of the shaft, radial is perpendicular to the shaft). Honestly, you could probably build this out of all sorts of sketchy materials, as it's not really supporting any load. Just the weight of the threaded rod itself, and reducing the friction of turning the rod.
The front bearing, near the handle, is being pulled INTO the machine, as the rod is being pulled back into the cart by the arms which want to collapse and lower the table. It is supporting the entirety of the force needed to lift and hold the cart's table, and it's super important.
It has a tapered bearing, so the bearing can oppose the force causing the cart to collapse (which would pull the threaded rod away from the crank and into the cart body, as the threaded rod is pulling the arms towards the middle of the cart). A non tapered bearing wouldn't be able resist the rod being pulled rod along it's length, and would likely fail quickly.
Any progress an the plannes?
Hi, nice job! :) ... is the hole on the end of the arms 1/3 apart from one side? I read it is for leverage purpose. Is my deduction right? Thanks for your answer and go on, you are doing very well!! (clapping hands) :)
I don't remember off-hand what the hole offset was, but you are correct that it is for leverage purposes. This only really matters when the table is at its lowest point though. Thanks for the inquiry!
How big is your box ?
The plans are now available if you are interested. There have been a lot of design upgrades and improvements from this older design. www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=161R82ZPI4EPS&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1650498968&sprefix=s.g.+devries%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-1
very well done thanks for the video
Why not screws? faster and stronger.
Is there any particular advantage to the offset of the joints? I.e. would it work differently if all 3 holes in each piece were centered?
The offset in the hole position gives mechanical leverage to allow the lifting action with less required mechanical force applied.
Hello, Thanks for posting this build. I would ALSO like to get a set of plans for this. Have uses for it at home. Let us know when we can get the plans.
Im thinking of making one of these, looks to be very useful. Im guessing you threaded the wheel rods. Yes?
Hello where can i get the drawings for it
www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3MWB1HAN689PV&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1693947557&sprefix=s.g.+de%2Caps%2C249&sr=8-1
instead of screws, you could have attached the hardwood top with 2-sided tape.
Anybody know what size threaded rod he's using? I'd love a full hardware list, but this is the main thing. Also (side-note): Couldn't you just really use small small PVC for the wooden pieces under the table that the rod simply turns through (both ends) Thought here is that this is not really going to be something that thousands of times spins around, just a few dozens of turns per table rise and lower. Anyway: Mainly, what size threaded rod please?
I used a standard 3/4-10 threaded rod. I am working on the full plans but don't have them ready yet. Thanks for the comment.
@@s.g.devries8557 I have started a tiny version of this as a test (just out of a piece of craft wood). I have a need for this and excited to have found it. Thanks so much!
spring 2021, any chance you have a pdf of the sheet layout yet?
Plans are in progress. I hope to have them finished by the end of summer. Thanks for asking.
@@s.g.devries8557 which summer?
Are the dimensions the same as Marius Hornberger's scissor lift table?
Excellent Technic
Thanks for the comment Pratap. If you interested in plans, I have made a lot of upgrades and the plans are now available. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
sir i want to purchase of this product i am from india so tell me how price about it.
I do not sell completed tables, but you can purchase the instruction book here (has both Imperial and Metric dimensions): www.amazon.com/Scissor-Lift-Table-step-step/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20GTFPMISU9WO&keywords=s.g.+devries&qid=1654367699&sprefix=s.g.%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-1
I did get a reply from S.G. DeVries.and he said he was working on the plans but that it was going slow.
Kenneth, I have now finished my plan book and it is up on Amazon as of March 29, 2022. The book has both Imperial and Metric dimensions, as well as the drawings for either a plywood or a hardwood build (there are some slight differences between the two). I will be posting a video soon that goes over all of my improvements and upgrades, but in the meantime, if you are still interested, here is the link: www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
I cannot wait to get this. Thank you so much for taking the time to let me know and for creating your plan book.
Just got the book today. I love it. Very nice
Great work!
Здравствуйте! Хочу купить планы. Как можно это сделать?
Hello Sir,
Wonderful content, would you mind sending me plans of your creation?
Thank you in advance
Nice work. Did you use software to calculate the board cuts?
Good job. Looks quite neat. Did you bother to test the maximum weight your table could safely take?
Andrej Zhirnyj I have not tested it. Since I used plywood and 1/4” bolts I knew it wouldn’t be heavy duty. It did handle the ceiling heater I took down quite well and that was about 100 pounds but I wouldn’t want to go much heavier.
@Yair bitton you mean a summary like the video your commenting on?
Would you have plans available?
I am working on them, but they are taking longer than I would like due to general life circumstances. The book is written, which contains the full plans and instructions in both Imperial and metric units, as well as the plywood cut sheets, and also the scale drawings for building out of hardwood. I am currently working on the hardwood table because there are some differences between building out of plywood and building out of hardwood, and I need the photos of the hardwood build to finish off the book. I had hoped to have it published by the end of summer 2021, and that obviously didn't happen. I would expect a couple more months. Thanks for asking.
Oliver, I have pinned a new comment at the top of the video about the plans, which are now available at Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B09WQ17SZP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15AJX53LN8YSH&keywords=sg+devries&qid=1648654405&sprefix=sg+devries%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-5
It took me longer than I wanted to get them done, but now they are finished, and they are very detailed with step-by-step photos for everything. Thanks for the comment.
Do you have plans for the sisor lift you made. ?
You know, if you just pause the video at .57 seconds, you could have basically all you need. A list of all parts, dimensions, and layout on a sheet of ply. Just remember to double up the arms, as mentioned his initial build was nowhere near stiff enough.
But personally, I think this is a pretty silly way to do it. Plywood is really not suited to long strips with a lot of force applied to them. Plywood makes a great shear panel and a very attractive uniform surface, but it's just not for this one dimensional loading, as half the grain is running the wrong way, making it basically useless for adding strength and stiffness.
Really, personally, I would be tempted to just use steel flat bar. This would be MUCH stiffer and stronger, and you could get comparable weight to 1.5x36x3.5 inch oak bars while having vastly better performance.
Or just use some dimensional lumber. The gap between the stiffness of oak and even a relatively weak softwood like yellow or white pine will not be so extreme that you get better strength per volume using oak ply, let alone strength to weight. A good softwood, or any dimensional hardwood, will almost certainly be signficantly stiffer.
TLDR: if you build this, don't use ply for the arms. There's a lot of great ideas, from the pex bushings to the garage door track wheels but ply is not the right material for this project.
I agree with you. Plywood is not the ideal material and it definitely puts weight limitations on the table. If I was going to use it for heavy loads I would build it out of hardwood, or at least a furniture grade plywood which is stronger. Since I only needed it for light duty, and cost was a major issue, I elected to go a cheaper route and use plywood. I would like to rebuild it some day out of hardwood.
Yes thanks
I have tried and it can be done but it is way hard. It hard to read, and so one. For one reason or another I can't seem to find a plan
For one simmer not sure why. ?
If you can that would be great but if you don't I get it.
Thanks for your time
Dennis
What you should do is make it so a person can attach their waist to the platform and bound their feet on the ground and attach a screwdriver to make it move up and down
So people can have a automatic crouching exerciser that makes the legs go from the ground to standing
Hundreds of million of people need a automatic leg croucher machine
From babies to adults
When I. Was young i got arthritis in my legs because my family didn't move me enough and left me in poor conditions
If there was a automatic leg croucher it would have treated me and made blood circualte in my legs
Beautiful project ... Nice explanations .....
Just checked out your videos .. Not many there but if you continue can see many many more subscribers to your channel.
SUBSCRIBED! Keep up the good work. #669
Hallo hast du eine Stückliste oder Zeichnung davon, wäre echt super. Würde ihn gern nachbauen für die Werkstatt.