You can get adjustable carriage stops to deal with that problem, but micro switches is a better idea for sure. Trouble is I'm not sure how to wire up the switches on my lathe. You got a better deal then I did, I paid £659 for the creworks 7"*14.
@@motobrikerestorations1354 yeah I'm happy with it, but the one you bought was on for £799 I think, but all things considered the lathe I have is a little bigger for needs anyway.
For the wiring you pick on the stop button. This as well as isolating the supply preventing start when the x-switch is activatedcreates an e-stop so it doesnt autostart when the x-switch resets
@@guerillagardener2237 totally agree with you. I have never owned one of these hobby lathes and thought they would be tiny. Its very unlikely I will every need the extra size. The primary use with be fabricating small parts for the bikes I restore
I have never seen that I guess you would cut a recess to lead into the thread start at the correct thread root diameter? To be honest I have never had a crash but did hear it was caused by distraction
@@BedsitBob you lost me on this one. In the 22 years at sea I cut lots of threads but not sure how you do this in the way you described. You would have to position the tool at the start of the thread, engage the drive and then feed in to start the cut?
@@motobrikerestorations1354 Withdraw the live centre (if you are using one) move the carriage until the tool post is past the end of the workpiece, then wind the cross slide in until the tool post is on the other side of the workpiece, ie. at the back of the lathe. Install the tool upside down, facing toward you, adjusting the height to bring the tip onto centre. Position the threading tool where you want the thread to end, then start the lathe. Back up the cross slide until it reaches the required depth for the first pass, then engage the half nuts, with the feed set to run away from the chuck. Rinse and repeat, until the thread is to depth.
@@BedsitBob you're way beyond me. I did sail with Bahamian fitters who cut screw threads for a soot blower without stopping the lathe. They would just bang the drive thread direction back wards and forwards. You couldnt knock the speed or finished product but the poor lathe,,,,,
Thank you, I have not watched part one yet (I read books like that sometimes) but I enjoyed this one.
You can get adjustable carriage stops to deal with that problem, but micro switches is a better idea for sure. Trouble is I'm not sure how to wire up the switches on my lathe. You got a better deal then I did, I paid £659 for the creworks 7"*14.
Thats sounds a pretty good price.
@@motobrikerestorations1354 yeah I'm happy with it, but the one you bought was on for £799 I think, but all things considered the lathe I have is a little bigger for needs anyway.
For the wiring you pick on the stop button. This as well as isolating the supply preventing start when the x-switch is activatedcreates an e-stop so it doesnt autostart when the x-switch resets
@@motobrikerestorations1354 ok so would I put the power into common and wire up normally closed or normally open, to the off switch??
@@guerillagardener2237 totally agree with you. I have never owned one of these hobby lathes and thought they would be tiny. Its very unlikely I will every need the extra size. The primary use with be fabricating small parts for the bikes I restore
MT = Morse Taper.
of course it is
Mt is Morse taper
If you're really worried about crashing into the chuck, you can thread away from the chuck.
I have never seen that I guess you would cut a recess to lead into the thread start at the correct thread root diameter? To be honest I have never had a crash but did hear it was caused by distraction
@@motobrikerestorations1354 You don't need a thread relief, if you're threading away from the chuck.
@@BedsitBob you lost me on this one. In the 22 years at sea I cut lots of threads but not sure how you do this in the way you described. You would have to position the tool at the start of the thread, engage the drive and then feed in to start the cut?
@@motobrikerestorations1354 Withdraw the live centre (if you are using one) move the carriage until the tool post is past the end of the workpiece, then wind the cross slide in until the tool post is on the other side of the workpiece, ie. at the back of the lathe.
Install the tool upside down, facing toward you, adjusting the height to bring the tip onto centre.
Position the threading tool where you want the thread to end, then start the lathe.
Back up the cross slide until it reaches the required depth for the first pass, then engage the half nuts, with the feed set to run away from the chuck.
Rinse and repeat, until the thread is to depth.
@@BedsitBob you're way beyond me. I did sail with Bahamian fitters who cut screw threads for a soot blower without stopping the lathe. They would just bang the drive thread direction back wards and forwards. You couldnt knock the speed or finished product but the poor lathe,,,,,