Great video. I was surprised to see the use of a torque wrench on reinstallation. I've never seen anyone use one on a nozzle tip, although I agree this would be a more controlled and precise method vs "feel" with a standard wrench.
Just want to know what you have heard or know about using a copper based ant seize on the nozzle tips. Have been told that it will still seize the tip up if you are running Acetal materials. And really good video but should be cleaning the nozzle tip with a wire brush in a socket to hold it as soon as you take it off the machine while it's still hot. The outside of the tip will clean up a lot faster and it may be easier to clean out some materials while it's still hot. I use the brass mesh with a small flat screw driver to do this.
150 ft/lbs seems like overkill for a nozzle tip. I don't even torque 3/4 or M20 clamp bolts to that. I was always taught to just snug them. I mean, that may not be correct.
Definitely not. Are you using magnets in your hopper? If not, that may catch that metal as long as it is a ferrous metal. Where do you think the metal is coming from?
@@TuKwick Tutco.com recommends 150 ft lbs on a nozzle tip. We use M16 bolts for our molds and they go to 180 ft lbs. I understand that almost no one uses a torque setting for their nozzle tips , most people just go by feel which is not a good idea. How tight do you tighten your nozzle tips when you change them? I am curious what people actually do in the industry.
@@rjg We go to 60ftlbs anything over that is overkill for a 7/8-14. For the mold M16 at 180ftlbs is above what Nissei calls out. Nissei on a NEX M16 calls out the following: Close to the mold 140ftlbs and 162ftlbs when away from the mold. it should always be taught to look at the machine manual. for the 150ftlbs from tutco. Sure you can use it but does it make sense and how did they get there? It is brobably a "Ham Story"(see Jason Robinson for details of the Ham story).
You call out for a 6 point box end but youre using a 12 point. you recommend using a cheater instead of prescribing the right tool for the job, a proper 2 foot breaker bar or a bigger drive bar.
Yes, I misspoke about the wrench. I did say 6 point but meant to say 12. Both will work but a 12 point is a little better. It is common to use a cheater bar or a “proper 2 ft breaker bar”.
Great video. I was surprised to see the use of a torque wrench on reinstallation. I've never seen anyone use one on a nozzle tip, although I agree this would be a more controlled and precise method vs "feel" with a standard wrench.
Yeah, it keeps people from over tightening. Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for your video
Thanks for watching!
hope you release more videos about nissei machine.
Just want to know what you have heard or know about using a copper based ant seize on the nozzle tips. Have been told that it will still seize the tip up if you are running Acetal materials. And really good video but should be cleaning the nozzle tip with a wire brush in a socket to hold it as soon as you take it off the machine while it's still hot. The outside of the tip will clean up a lot faster and it may be easier to clean out some materials while it's still hot. I use the brass mesh with a small flat screw driver to do this.
I've been using copper anti sieze for years. Never had issues, and my last shop ran a TON of acetal.
@@spikereynolds8615 Good to know thank you .
150 ft/lbs seems like overkill for a nozzle tip. I don't even torque 3/4 or M20 clamp bolts to that.
I was always taught to just snug them. I mean, that may not be correct.
That seem too much purged material and get wasted, should used that to make good usable parts
is it normal to find tiny metal pieces inside the nozzle tip?
Definitely not. Are you using magnets in your hopper? If not, that may catch that metal as long as it is a ferrous metal. Where do you think the metal is coming from?
@@rjg It seems like pieces of a washer, we had to remove them since they were stuck on the tip but we have no idea where they came from
Good
How can we change weld line in the part & why should we do it?????
Unfortunately, weld lines are not related to this video but weld lines could be a topic for the future. Thanks for watching!
150 ftlbs or inlbs?
Ft lbs.
@@rjg Bolting clamps is done at 70-90ftlbs on most presses 130ftlbs max in industry. 150ftlbs is way to high......
@@TuKwick Tutco.com recommends 150 ft lbs on a nozzle tip. We use M16 bolts for our molds and they go to 180 ft lbs. I understand that almost no one uses a torque setting for their nozzle tips , most people just go by feel which is not a good idea. How tight do you tighten your nozzle tips when you change them? I am curious what people actually do in the industry.
@@rjg We go to 60ftlbs anything over that is overkill for a 7/8-14. For the mold M16 at 180ftlbs is above what Nissei calls out. Nissei on a NEX M16 calls out the following: Close to the mold 140ftlbs and 162ftlbs when away from the mold. it should always be taught to look at the machine manual. for the 150ftlbs from tutco. Sure you can use it but does it make sense and how did they get there? It is brobably a "Ham Story"(see Jason Robinson for details of the Ham story).
@@TuKwick I don't take m16 clamp bolts over 100.
You call out for a 6 point box end but youre using a 12 point. you recommend using a cheater instead of prescribing the right tool for the job, a proper 2 foot breaker bar or a bigger drive bar.
Yes, I misspoke about the wrench. I did say 6 point but meant to say 12. Both will work but a 12 point is a little better. It is common to use a cheater bar or a “proper 2 ft breaker bar”.