Went to harbor freight and got the same feeler gauges and did the exact same mod. I also hated that side to side "slop". HUGE improvement! Thanx again man. Keep it up, you are a great help to us
just did the trigger tune mine didn't have any grease in it and didn;t need a shim .but the safety was terrible and trigger pull was not smooth.thanks too your video they both are operating fantastic! Did trigger adjustment and wow what a difference! thanks Chad!
Thanks for your verbose video on this subject! I used your detailed instructions on my Hatsan Bullboss .25 I mainly had a problem with the really long trigger travel. I did end up going with less trigger pressure too.
I followed along and did my first trigger adjustment, naturally i was curious to see how light i could tune it, not because i planned to use it with a hair trigger, just out of curiousity, and I found out if the weight is lightened too much, the sears will not engage when you try to cock it, for a minute i freaked out cuz i thought i broke something, then figured it out and raised the weight of the trigger to a reasonable 10 oz. or so, and she cocks and fires beautifully now. On another note, I am wondering what you think about an idea I have, for a fix for the flashpup wood firing accidentally due to open, locked down bolt getting bumped out of position and slamming shut. My thought was to file a shallow indent in the bolt, matching the 90 degree angled edge of the bolt slot, that holds it in place when locked down, so it would catch and hold until pulled back to disengage with the edge of the bolt slot. My worry is that it would weaken the bolt handle, esp as I have my hammer spring turned out close to as far as it will go already, so its a stiff cocking gun.
Your idea sounds excellent besides the chance at weakening the bolt as you mentioned. The only way you should be able to accidentally fire the gun this way is if the bolt slips out of your hand while pulling it back but before you reach the point of the hammer being locked in place or the rear locked position. This will send the bolt/probe and hammer forwards and the hammer will crack the valve open. When moving the bolt all the way to the rear locked position you naturally move the hammer to the rear and go past the point of trigger sear engagement to fully separated and the sears are ready to be locked in place. If the bolt is in the rear locked position and you bump it up it should only move slightly forwards and the hammer should only move forwards about 1/4" before stopping when the trigger sear engages and the hammer is locked in place. This won't happen if the breakpoint on the trigger is adjusted too light in combination with a heavy preaload because there is not enough sear engagement and the super powerful jolt going forward breaks it right past this point. Only way to avoid it is to... a.) Lessen preload tension b.) Add tension to trigger sear breakpoint adjustment Or.... c.) Something along the lines of your great idea Let me know what you come up with brother. I don't have mine in front of me but your idea sounds solid and maybe wouldn't take too much from the integrity of the bolt handle.
@@brothersinair2064 yeah IDK, I have read posts from others who had the same issue, basically if its in the locked down position and you bump it out of the notch, it fires but it sounds weaker than a normal dry fire sounds, with the bolt closed and locked down. Not sure if it would actually fire a projectile with enough force to get the 36 grain slug past the choke point , or if it would just get stuck in the barrel, which would be more just a pain in the ass than a safety issue. (love those Neilson 36 grain hollow points, btw, small enough to fit in the mag and she just seems to love em, not that I have a wealth of experience to compare against but out of the few projectiles I have tried these are the best so far. Appreciate your vid on the slugs btw, i dont have a chrono but i usually keep it at about 6.5 turns out from all the way CW, so not super hot) These Airguns are a tinkerers dream, always some new adjustment or mod. Loving it! :)
@@fedayeentaqx9956 I feel ya. Just keep in mind that when going to the rear locked position you are actually cocking the gun so you must ask... why is the sear failing to hold the hammer back with the extra travel and force before it contacts when bumped up vs your slow, controlled stroke. I changed all my sear tension springs to a touch stiffer than the factory. Before I picked up the new0 springs I just pulled the factory ones and stretched them a touch longer. Was still able to adjust a light break point but with much more response to holding the light break in place once cocked. Brother it's been a while since I've seen someone get on the airgun kick with so much enthusiasm and ideas. I love it! You're right... A tinkerers dream!
Thanks for the compliments bro I appreciate them. I do have a few years in doing CNC work and some manual lathe work. Currently I'm a certified RV technician. Water heaters, furnaces, generators, inverters.... Lots of mechanical and electrical troubleshooting. It challenges me and I'm never bored so I enjoy it.
I noticed my pins coming out of the trigger assembly when I remove the gun from the stock, guess I need to Loctite those, it looks as to me as if they were put in backward which bored out the smaller hole. The first time I took it apart and was removing the pins I noticed one was in backward as well. I pulled it out the other day to put a camo paint job on my gun and they were falling out. Yeah, I painted it, tried my hand at doing a camo job. I'm happy with it. I kept a wrap on it all the time, it was also a bit slippery for me so I got rid of both the desire to have it camouflaged and the slippery with matte paint. I'm happy with it.
You could loctite them but here's another idea that will permanently fix the loose pin... Pull the pins out and lay them flat on a hard surface that's metal or granite or something smooth give the back non pointed end where it fits tight in the block a tap with a hammer very very lightly just give it one tap supersoft. it will oblong the pin slightly on the very end where it flushes off with the block causing it to fit tightly from that point on. The trick is to go slow a soft tap at a time testing the fit after each tap to ensure you don't over do it and mangle the pin. A very very small change to the shape of the end of the pin will cause it to seat tight and will be a lasting fix if the pins are not pushed too far and are only flushed with the block when you insert them. The pins are steel and the block alluminum so driving them in past flush will just strech and reshape the alluminum and the guys doing the assembling at the factory aren't always the best. I have seen great guns from reputable manufacturers that clearly appear to have been assembled by a hung-over or very disgruntled employee. It's an unfortunate reality of mass production manufacturing that we must all do our best to deal with. On another note.... Kudos on the camo paint job! That pup is ready for some serious hunting now!!!!
Hi I have a question about the Hatsan Flashpup trigger. This just started happening today, I filled the rifle up to 200 bar, I think a little bit into the red, not on purpose. I'm testing out some JSB Hades 10 Gr. When I pull the trigger back through the second phase, it feels like the trigger gets stuck a little, I'm not getting a smooth pull and it takes a millisecond for the pellet to fire. What do you suggest?
So I just got my flashpup in the .25 and my trigger has been really odd. I’ll pull once and pass through both stages... and nothing, pull twice and again nothing and then on the third pull it becomes a hair trigger, no stages needed to pass. Manufacturing defect possibly? Should I try to see if I could adjust it myself or should I send it in on its warranty?
Hey bro! Really needed this video. Still trying to eliminate every bit of creep from my trigger. Turned the second screw one half turn and it wouldn’t even fire. Put it back where it was and now making small adjustments. Getting there. Have you seen the new flashpup s qe? Spotted it on Hatsan’s website. Looks bad ass. Check it out. Again thanks for the video. I learn something with every one. C’mon spring!🎯
Glad the video was helpful. Yeah actually did see it about 3 weeks ago on the same website. Looks like the same build as the new Flash wood. Larger-diameter and shortened air reservoir, chrome bolt handle etc.... Looks pretty awesome but for some reason I just don't like the shining chrome bolt handle on top of the black reciever. I would prefer the handle all black but that can be fixed easily with some ceramic paint. All personal preference. I wonder when we'll see it in the states? The air Max was available for 2 years before it made its way here waiting for bullboss sales to decline so it will be interesting. I would imagine it will show up at the earliest at SHOT show next year as they will be waiting for the Flash (wood)/flashpup craze to die down a little bit before they release the synthetic. I found it available on a Russian website and for what they're charging it translates to $460 US. I'll probably preorder it as soon as it hits US vendors!
My refurb flash will not cock - sounds like second adjust screw may be the problem - any suggestions - turn screw in, out ? How much? I turned it 1/2 turn, out I think
I want to add that the Hatsan manuals that I have are screwed up and have the adjustment screws all mislabeled. They mix up what each adjustment screw actually does.
It has always amazed me that's some of the gun companies push their famed trigger systems to be so wonderful (which they very well may be), and then turn around and either give you incorrect or the most vague instructions imaginable. Lol
Hey Brothers in Air, I just got my flashpup s from pyramidair and after about 120 shots ,the next shot I took it made a loud noise and I could feel air on my face.an O ring came out but I don't know where it goes. I took a couple more dry shots and it is definitely louder and I can feel air.im going to send it back ,but was wondering if you knew what that is.i guess I was having too much fun.
I would say that your breech seal came flying out. That's the seal just inside the barrel (about 3/16" in) that seals around the pellet probe when taking a shot. It's the only place that an O ring could come out from. Everything else is sealed and contained within the block. If you retract the bolt and shine a flashlight into the barrel you should see the breech seal gland and be able to tell if there is an o-ring in there or not. Another way to tell is by loading a pellet and taking a shot with wet fingers around the pellet probe/breech area to see if air is blowing back out through there. With a properly functioning breech seal you shouldn't get any air blasting backwards from around the pellet probe. There should be a replacement in your kit that came with your gun. It's not so easy taking an old one out but you can finesse a new one into the gland without removing the barrel. Hope that helps you brother good luck👍
@@50thstateofmind37 yeah that will work just fine. It's not the best stuff but it will definitely do the trick and there's nothing in it that will hurt a Buna - n O ring so you should be good to go. Most department stores that carry BB guns and what not will have crossman's chamber oil . That will probably hold on better and last a little longer then the 3 in 1. I use SuperLube's o Ring Lubricant myself. it's inexpensive, does not dry up or crystallized in any way , and stays where you put it. I usually put a drop of oil on the pellet probe every 200 shots or so as a form of maintenance to the breech seal. The oil will help it to seat better and last longer. I know how it is getting something new and then having it all come to an abrupt stop so I'm glad it was the breech seal and an easy fix. Now you getting your first real lesson in PCP airguns and that's awesome👍
@@brothersinair2064 you are a life saver sir!!it worked out perfectly. It took a little time and patience because of my fat fingers but I'm glad I dont have to send it back to pyramid air.it took a while to get to hawaii...thanks again this thing is as advertised! A great first pcp for me for sure !the first thing I'm gonna do is some trigger work.i dont have a chronograph yet so I'll save tuning for later. Thanks again, can't wait to see how deep this rabbit hole goes for me in the pcp world!!lol wish me luck...
Super helpful. The best Hatsan trigger adjustment video I have seen so far. Thank you.
Thanks again Brother. Hearing that the videos are helpful means a lot. You're welcome!
Went to harbor freight and got the same feeler gauges and did the exact same mod. I also hated that side to side "slop". HUGE improvement! Thanx again man. Keep it up, you are a great help to us
Thanks bro. Glad the info is being put to good use! Comments like yours are all I need to keep pumping them out!
just did the trigger tune mine didn't have any grease in it and didn;t need a shim .but the safety was terrible and trigger pull was not smooth.thanks too your video they both are operating fantastic! Did trigger adjustment and wow what a difference! thanks Chad!
You bet! Glad you got her smoothed out!
Thanks for your verbose video on this subject! I used your detailed instructions on my Hatsan Bullboss .25
I mainly had a problem with the really long trigger travel. I did end up going with less trigger pressure too.
just done the shim mod - brilliant, coke zero uk can is just over 4 thou so two of them worked a treat
Another great video! I appreciate all your little details!
Thanks Cliff. Its my pleasure!
Very informative video! Sharing this and your channel on the Flashpup Facebook group I just made. 👍
Thanks bro that's awesome!
really appreciate your videos most help full
Awsome vidio , very good information and schooling on the Hatsan trigger very interesting
Thanks!
Thanks Bro, keep up the good work.
My pleasure 👍
I followed along and did my first trigger adjustment, naturally i was curious to see how light i could tune it, not because i planned to use it with a hair trigger, just out of curiousity, and I found out if the weight is lightened too much, the sears will not engage when you try to cock it, for a minute i freaked out cuz i thought i broke something, then figured it out and raised the weight of the trigger to a reasonable 10 oz. or so, and she cocks and fires beautifully now. On another note, I am wondering what you think about an idea I have, for a fix for the flashpup wood firing accidentally due to open, locked down bolt getting bumped out of position and slamming shut. My thought was to file a shallow indent in the bolt, matching the 90 degree angled edge of the bolt slot, that holds it in place when locked down, so it would catch and hold until pulled back to disengage with the edge of the bolt slot. My worry is that it would weaken the bolt handle, esp as I have my hammer spring turned out close to as far as it will go already, so its a stiff cocking gun.
Your idea sounds excellent besides the chance at weakening the bolt as you mentioned. The only way you should be able to accidentally fire the gun this way is if the bolt slips out of your hand while pulling it back but before you reach the point of the hammer being locked in place or the rear locked position. This will send the bolt/probe and hammer forwards and the hammer will crack the valve open. When moving the bolt all the way to the rear locked position you naturally move the hammer to the rear and go past the point of trigger sear engagement to fully separated and the sears are ready to be locked in place. If the bolt is in the rear locked position and you bump it up it should only move slightly forwards and the hammer should only move forwards about 1/4" before stopping when the trigger sear engages and the hammer is locked in place. This won't happen if the breakpoint on the trigger is adjusted too light in combination with a heavy preaload because there is not enough sear engagement and the super powerful jolt going forward breaks it right past this point. Only way to avoid it is to...
a.) Lessen preload tension
b.) Add tension to trigger sear breakpoint adjustment
Or....
c.) Something along the lines of your great idea
Let me know what you come up with brother. I don't have mine in front of me but your idea sounds solid and maybe wouldn't take too much from the integrity of the bolt handle.
@@brothersinair2064 yeah IDK, I have read posts from others who had the same issue, basically if its in the locked down position and you bump it out of the notch, it fires but it sounds weaker than a normal dry fire sounds, with the bolt closed and locked down. Not sure if it would actually fire a projectile with enough force to get the 36 grain slug past the choke point , or if it would just get stuck in the barrel, which would be more just a pain in the ass than a safety issue. (love those Neilson 36 grain hollow points, btw, small enough to fit in the mag and she just seems to love em, not that I have a wealth of experience to compare against but out of the few projectiles I have tried these are the best so far. Appreciate your vid on the slugs btw, i dont have a chrono but i usually keep it at about 6.5 turns out from all the way CW, so not super hot) These Airguns are a tinkerers dream, always some new adjustment or mod. Loving it! :)
@@fedayeentaqx9956 I feel ya. Just keep in mind that when going to the rear locked position you are actually cocking the gun so you must ask... why is the sear failing to hold the hammer back with the extra travel and force before it contacts when bumped up vs your slow, controlled stroke. I changed all my sear tension springs to a touch stiffer than the factory. Before I picked up the new0 springs I just pulled the factory ones and stretched them a touch longer. Was still able to adjust a light break point but with much more response to holding the light break in place once cocked. Brother it's been a while since I've seen someone get on the airgun kick with so much enthusiasm and ideas. I love it! You're right... A tinkerers dream!
What do you do for a living? Are you a machinist? You seem to know your shit. Nice work my man, the way you seek out flaws and correct them.
Thanks for the compliments bro I appreciate them. I do have a few years in doing CNC work and some manual lathe work. Currently I'm a certified RV technician. Water heaters, furnaces, generators, inverters.... Lots of mechanical and electrical troubleshooting. It challenges me and I'm never bored so I enjoy it.
@@brothersinair2064 funny I'm checking some rv's now thinking about a mini bus
I noticed my pins coming out of the trigger assembly when I remove the gun from the stock, guess I need to Loctite those, it looks as to me as if they were put in backward which bored out the smaller hole. The first time I took it apart and was removing the pins I noticed one was in backward as well. I pulled it out the other day to put a camo paint job on my gun and they were falling out. Yeah, I painted it, tried my hand at doing a camo job. I'm happy with it. I kept a wrap on it all the time, it was also a bit slippery for me so I got rid of both the desire to have it camouflaged and the slippery with matte paint. I'm happy with it.
You could loctite them but here's another idea that will permanently fix the loose pin... Pull the pins out and lay them flat on a hard surface that's metal or granite or something smooth give the back non pointed end where it fits tight in the block a tap with a hammer very very lightly just give it one tap supersoft. it will oblong the pin slightly on the very end where it flushes off with the block causing it to fit tightly from that point on. The trick is to go slow a soft tap at a time testing the fit after each tap to ensure you don't over do it and mangle the pin. A very very small change to the shape of the end of the pin will cause it to seat tight and will be a lasting fix if the pins are not pushed too far and are only flushed with the block when you insert them. The pins are steel and the block alluminum so driving them in past flush will just strech and reshape the alluminum and the guys doing the assembling at the factory aren't always the best. I have seen great guns from reputable manufacturers that clearly appear to have been assembled by a hung-over or very disgruntled employee. It's an unfortunate reality of mass production manufacturing that we must all do our best to deal with. On another note.... Kudos on the camo paint job! That pup is ready for some serious hunting now!!!!
Hi I have a question about the Hatsan Flashpup trigger. This just started happening today, I filled the rifle up to 200 bar, I think a little bit into the red, not on purpose. I'm testing out some JSB Hades 10 Gr. When I pull the trigger back through the second phase, it feels like the trigger gets stuck a little, I'm not getting a smooth pull and it takes a millisecond for the pellet to fire. What do you suggest?
So I just got my flashpup in the .25 and my trigger has been really odd. I’ll pull once and pass through both stages... and nothing, pull twice and again nothing and then on the third pull it becomes a hair trigger, no stages needed to pass. Manufacturing defect possibly? Should I try to see if I could adjust it myself or should I send it in on its warranty?
Hey bro! Really needed this video. Still trying to eliminate every bit of creep from my trigger. Turned the second screw one half turn and it wouldn’t even fire. Put it back where it was and now making small adjustments. Getting there. Have you seen the new flashpup s qe? Spotted it on Hatsan’s website. Looks bad ass. Check it out. Again thanks for the video. I learn something with every one. C’mon spring!🎯
Glad the video was helpful. Yeah actually did see it about 3 weeks ago on the same website. Looks like the same build as the new Flash wood. Larger-diameter and shortened air reservoir, chrome bolt handle etc.... Looks pretty awesome but for some reason I just don't like the shining chrome bolt handle on top of the black reciever. I would prefer the handle all black but that can be fixed easily with some ceramic paint. All personal preference. I wonder when we'll see it in the states? The air Max was available for 2 years before it made its way here waiting for bullboss sales to decline so it will be interesting. I would imagine it will show up at the earliest at SHOT show next year as they will be waiting for the Flash (wood)/flashpup craze to die down a little bit before they release the synthetic. I found it available on a Russian website and for what they're charging it translates to $460 US. I'll probably preorder it as soon as it hits US vendors!
My refurb flash will not cock - sounds like second adjust screw may be the problem - any suggestions - turn screw in, out ? How much? I turned it 1/2 turn, out I think
I want to add that the Hatsan manuals that I have are screwed up and have the adjustment screws all mislabeled. They mix up what each adjustment screw actually does.
It has always amazed me that's some of the gun companies push their famed trigger systems to be so wonderful (which they very well may be), and then turn around and either give you incorrect or the most vague instructions imaginable. Lol
Hey Brothers in Air,
I just got my flashpup s from pyramidair and after about 120 shots ,the next shot I took it made a loud noise and I could feel air on my face.an O ring came out but I don't know where it goes. I took a couple more dry shots and it is definitely louder and I can feel air.im going to send it back ,but was wondering if you knew what that is.i guess I was having too much fun.
I would say that your breech seal came flying out. That's the seal just inside the barrel (about 3/16" in) that seals around the pellet probe when taking a shot. It's the only place that an O ring could come out from. Everything else is sealed and contained within the block. If you retract the bolt and shine a flashlight into the barrel you should see the breech seal gland and be able to tell if there is an o-ring in there or not. Another way to tell is by loading a pellet and taking a shot with wet fingers around the pellet probe/breech area to see if air is blowing back out through there. With a properly functioning breech seal you shouldn't get any air blasting backwards from around the pellet probe. There should be a replacement in your kit that came with your gun. It's not so easy taking an old one out but you can finesse a new one into the gland without removing the barrel. Hope that helps you brother good luck👍
If the O-ring is intact and undamaged you could just reuse it. I would recommend using some silicone oil of some sort on the seals vs dry
@@brothersinair2064 it was exactly that.i have some 3 in one silicone oil would that work?
@@50thstateofmind37 yeah that will work just fine. It's not the best stuff but it will definitely do the trick and there's nothing in it that will hurt a Buna - n
O ring so you should be good to go. Most department stores that carry BB guns and what not will have crossman's chamber oil . That will probably hold on better and last a little longer then the 3 in 1. I use SuperLube's o Ring Lubricant myself. it's inexpensive, does not dry up or crystallized in any way , and stays where you put it. I usually put a drop of oil on the pellet probe every 200 shots or so as a form of maintenance to the breech seal. The oil will help it to seat better and last longer. I know how it is getting something new and then having it all come to an abrupt stop so I'm glad it was the breech seal and an easy fix. Now you getting your first real lesson in PCP airguns and that's awesome👍
@@brothersinair2064 you are a life saver sir!!it worked out perfectly. It took a little time and patience because of my fat fingers but I'm glad I dont have to send it back to pyramid air.it took a while to get to hawaii...thanks again this thing is as advertised! A great first pcp for me for sure !the first thing I'm gonna do is some trigger work.i dont have a chronograph yet so I'll save tuning for later. Thanks again, can't wait to see how deep this rabbit hole goes for me in the pcp world!!lol wish me luck...
My wet dream would be 30. cal flashpup.
56 min for that a 2min job and you turned it into 56min 😭
27 min of just talking 😤😭 come on