Відео

Hi @noesalinas5278, I'm glad our videos could assist. Our goal is to share knowledge for auto glass and not hide information from other shops or technicians. Too many videos on UA-cam are cut down for content, and we believe showing the whole deal from beginning to end to better help others.

We AGREE 👍 customers will help out and move the vehicle, but sometimes our customers leave the door open and their spouse takes the keys with them, or the vehicle doesn't crank, or to play musical vehicles would take longer when we could just deploy our door bumpers from Equalizer. Our call recordings for every call reveal our AI and Sales Rep is informing the customers we need the space. For our tech recording the videos, he's no stranger working in tight spaces at mechanic shops, yards, and the Nissan Plant employee parking lot. We do block cars when working, but we also have to be safe too since we are working in Gang controlled neighborhoods. Recently one of our friends at another glass shop was ran over and dragged down the road when the lady didn't want to pay. His vehicle was blocking her in, and she jumped the curb with him.

The milage is amazing. It's much better than spending $160-240 for gas on a truck. Instead, we spend $30 per fill up and get more miles. So $60 a week in gas is amazing from where we used to be with a truck. The CarCal system is able to fit in a single seat of a vehicle or the trunk of a small compact car. So, for us, the CarCal stand and targets fit nicely on the drivers side strapped to the van wall. We're able to get it in and out with no problem, even with a full load of new glass for the day.

We have 1 short tech that owns his own shop in town, and every glass shop knows when he last worked on that customers vehicle because he does the same thing. Top center and bottom center. On some of the wider vehicles, I will sometimes stand from the passenger seat area through the opening and apply my urethane.

With experience in auto glass, a tech learns to recognize what urethane the previous shop used. There is a huge difference in Sika vs. Dow once they dry and age. As for the contamination to glass, you can see photos in our blog on our website. When the windshield is leaking and our fiber line jumps when taking out the glass, we pay attention to those areas asking, why? Once the glass is out, we see oily fingerprints on the glass or that the whole underside of glass is covered in weathered rain residue from sitting at the suppliers' docks and not being brought inside. Our suppliers/trainers and other glass shops (we're all friends here), Google search, chatgpt, Safelite training manual all mentioned otherwise when trimming urethane. Always wipe down the frame with a cleaner or water after trimming and allow proper time for the frame to dry. The same applies when applying 5504G, let it dry. The frame can not properly be cleaned of dirt and contamination from armor-all over-spray without trimming down the urethane, allowing for a nice wipe down of the surfaces. As for the comment about primer to glass, there are primers for glass, but 5504G is meant for the vehicle. Not attacking anyone and how they were trained.. everyone was trained a little bit different, but the information is on the web to assist those shops that are having issues with water leaks or questions.

Sir, DuPont recommends cleaners after the urethane bed is cut. It's posted on their website and in local warehouses in the brochures at will-call desk. www.dupont.com/mobility/automotive/automotive-aftermarket/glass-replacement.html#:~:text=DuPont%20adhesives%20have%20been%20bonding,being%20easy%2Dto%2Dapply DuPont does have a sales rep on UA-cam that mentions what you say, but at the same time, he's selling his products, aka the cleaners that are meant to be used after the trim. Instead of carrying more supplies, just use glass cleaner or water and allow proper time to dry, followed by 5504G.

"WRD-RKS" Rhino Knife Set: comes with 3 blades, and the tool is magnetic to hold in the blades.

Hey @micktepolt6276 you are welcome.

To me, the orange bat works just as good as the spider, but you just got to find that groove for using it (placements). Also, with the orange bat, you might switch fiber lines to a Titan line if you are breaking lines often. If I had to pick one thought, I love using the spider more because it's simple, and I've got my placements down for it.

@ thanks brother for your quick response!! What type of titan line cord do you recommend?

In the video at 9:45 we show you how to remove the top chrome strip without bending it. Hopefully, this will help cut down your costs.

@MetroGlassLLC Nice i will take a look at that...they can get a bit hard specially in winter...like where am at

@isonewayautoglass everything is worse in the cold. Hit my hand under the hood the other day with these 40-degree temps we are having, and it burned and hurt. In the summertime, it would have been nothing.

Thanks, we're in central Mississippi if you're ever down here. As for Ohio, I suggest looking for that independent shop, you could try searching your area using iga.org/independent-glass-association-Find-Auto-Glass-Shop.html if no results there for your area then open Google maps and type in "Auto Glass Shops" and it will pull up auto shops in your area, then you need to view their reviews and social media accounts to verify their work. Edit: another thing you can do is ask two of the following questions and the answer to both of them should be yes unless you own a Jeep wrangler. (1) Do you remove the Cowl? (2) do you do a full trim? Full trim is where the old urethane is removed from the vehicle and primer is applied after cleaning.

@DanielRivera-ti4mn it is the WRD SB16. www.grtglasstools.com/product/urethane-scraper-tools/

We love using U428+ with 5504G. We've never had any issue with the two and on repeat customers we love cutting the glass out and seeing the condition of our Urethane bead. Always nice to see it doesn't pit or crack like Sika.

Depends on the vehicle. At the same time the shop has to keep a record. Contact us via email sales@metroglass-llc.com and we can better assist you in understanding what your rights are for this situation.

@jrodie7 Domestic vehicle (Ford, Chevy, GM, etc.) use Dynamic Calibration which is when the technician will drive your vehicle on a road with road signs and stripes. Using his tablet all he has to do is stay above 37mph and does not change lanes. Takes about 10 mins for this process but on some vehicles it could take longer. Sometimes too the tablet will ask for measurements of the wheelwell. For Foreign vehicles (Nissan, Toyota, Honda, etc.) use Static Calibration which is when the technician will use a stand with targets. He will measure from center hub to front bumper and fire lasers or use measurements to position his stand. The stand will squared off with the vehicle and adjusted to the correct height. At that point the technician will use his tablet to recalibrate your vehicles Lane Departure Warning System (the camera in the windshield at the top). This process can take anywhere from 10 mins to a full hour. All shops are required to keep a record of these reports. They are stored on the tablet or the shops cloud account. These reports are available to the customer upon request. The report will show the vehicle VIN#, Miles, Tag#, Shop Info, Time/Date at the top followed by the Pre/Post scan of the vehicle and "IF" they did a calibration there will be a section called "ADAS" which will have in green letters "Calibration Successful" (usually around page 3). You will also see the reason for the recalibration which is ususally, "Windshield replaced" and you will see the new x, y axis setting for your vehicle. If the shop is unable to present you this report upon request then chances are they never did a recalibration and you can now take them to court for a number of things including fraud if it was an insurance job. Again, these reports HAVE to be kept by the shop for such purposes and you the customer have a right to receive a copy of the report.

@@MetroGlassLLC just a JSYK a 22 Tundra can be Dynamic calibration as well. Your above reply says that Toyota they are Static, but with an option for Dynamic.

​@GriffinsDen Yes, that is correct. The newer vehicles are allowing both options.

Thanks for watching. We're just trying to offer more insights into auto glass for our customers and those in the community looking to get into auto glass replacement. As for the brush comment, our brush is plastic. Check out the video below: ua-cam.com/video/_h98mimY7z0/v-deo.htmlsi=KwNu6IGJqnRyD7g4

Honestly, I have never noticed a smell with urethane. The primer has a sharpie smell but that goes away once dry. I would think the tech had some bad B.O. going on.

@@MetroGlassLLC Thanks!

The calibration system can be purchased from Chris at texasglasstools.com or from Craig at carcalexperts.com/ They can sell you everything you need in a bundle. I use the Autel tablet with CarCal stand and targets. You will need a ADAS activation card that is $1000 (one time activation, Craig includes this card if you buy direct with him) and a yearly subscription to whoever your tablet is made by for updates. With autel that subscription is $575 and updates roll in every week.

😄 🤣 I don't think a video can help some of their techs.

Glad our video could assist you. We just got out of the hospital and have several more we are about to release.

Yes, we recalibrate on site wherever the vehicle is located. We are using CarCal 3.0 stand and targets with Autel tablet.

That spider tool makes things so much easier. Our customers even love seeing it in use, they are amazed a string can cut the glass out.

You're welcome. We were going to release more videos this last week, but we have been admitted to the hospital and are resting up.

If the Quickset is unable to be set up because of the tuck under hood, then the Pro6 or Little Buddy would come out for us (or we would call someone to come out and assist). Some installers in our area even prefer setting with the Set-Stick for these large windshields that go under the hood so far. The easiest to use when all by yourself would be the Little Buddy Pro 2 in my opinion, I used it for years and loved it. It costs a good amount, but don't skimp, buy new every time, stay away from eBay as those tools are always in need of repair.

Thanks for the comment! We'll get more soon.

It was super easy to figure out. This video was also my first for that body style.

ua-cam.com/video/ZeuNzI8btKA/v-deo.html This was a Nissan Altima Recalibration. I'm planning to do more, I have to be careful not to give out the customers information. We also found a GPS tracker on that vehicle and warned the young lady who knew nothing of it.

We have found that due to the curve of the top molding that if we do not remove half of the clips, the opposite end chrome will scratch the roof of the vehicle. That is correct, to reattach, just align and push down. Should hear a clicking noise.

Normally we would have but that was not a baby seat. At 7:26 you can see it is a folded cover for a baby stroller.

Hey! Glad to see a fellow Mississippi Glass Shop. Thank you.

Thank you so much 😀

Glad to hear that

👋

De nada

Después de recortar el uretano, limpie el marco con un trapo y agua. Aplicar imprimación después.

Ok si pero en el parabrisas con q producto lo limpio antes de ell primer

Para limpiar el parabrisas utilizo agua o limpiacristales con un trapo sin pelusa. También puedes usar alcohol isopropílico. a.co/d/730kaLB

Thank you too. Always welcome 🙏

Yes sir, we have a lot of footage from our jobs and we are still recording. We're just busy with install work, and editing the GoPro footage back together takes a moment.

😀

👍

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks, we carry tools to accomplish any job we show up at. Never know what the job is going to look like until we arrive on site.

Hey, thanks for that tip! I'll give that a try on the next Subaru. This one, someone had worked on it before and used the Ford retainer clips W709346S300

🤩 Thanks! I spent many hours watching your videos in the beginning and still consult them when I have a question on a newer vehicle.

For us, no metal object is to touch the paint. Only the plastic or rubber part of tools may rest on the paint. The side trim were also 100% plastic. We do sometimes put those inside the vehicle if working outside where the wind might be strong.

I do not for the auto glass business, but I'll get one next week.

@@MetroGlassLLC and your best tools or most used as well. you make it look easy.

Will do. This week is a rain week for us, but we are going to record 3 jobs this Friday to be released this next month. I'll get a truck setup video with tools frequently used as well to be released in August.

Glad to hear they are helping. There are a ton of videos on UA-cam. Every now and then, after doing this for a while, I'll have to consult UA-cam University for how to remove a door panel on a vehicle I've yet to work on before. Got any questions? Just shoot us an email, and we will do our best to answer them.

@@MetroGlassLLC I will! Thanks!

@micahpirrce9568 Be sure to check out @vdkarautoglassreplacement3642 videos. I've watched so many of his videos, and they have helped me feel more comfortable when working on certain vehicles.

Appreciate it 🙏

Yes, I ran into this with the 2018-2020 Acura MDX. It's like the camera is using lidar or lasers and can not properly see through the aftermarket glass

Yes, the glass can be removed without breaking it. However, that plastic trim "exterior D pillar" (applique panel) is removable without taking the glass out. Unless you are talking about the rubber encapsulation on the glass... if so, the encapsulation is part of the glass and cannot be replaced (buy new glass). But to answer your question, yes, the glass can be removed. I recommend contacting several auto glass shops in your area, explaining the situation, and getting a quote from them. I like to use the "Spider 3" from WRD to remove the glass (piano wire technique), cuts the glass out nicely without damage to your vehicle or the glass. If you use blades, use them from the inside, remove the trim, and tape the glass to prevent scratches. Piano wire technique is recommended over blades.

@@MetroGlassLLC Thanks, that helps. I think I'll just buy a new quarter glass from the Glass shop I normally use and Get the new Hatchback glass and applique panel from the junkyard. Thanks again.

Junk yards will sell you a quarter glass cheaper than buying a new glass, just trim the old Urethane off using a razor blade and clean the glass. Most yards have the ability to remove the glass using heat or an extractor.

I’m demoing my Tahoe to use the frame as a truck. My 1/4 windows are perfect. To separate the body from the lower pan, I’ll probably cut it through ABCD pillars. Therefore the glass needs to come out. Wish me luck!

Good luck with that. If you are using a blade, put some painters tape on the glass to protect the glass from getting scratched. Also, have a 2nd person there to catch the glass when it starts to fall out. Good luck on your project!

We carry the following moldings from Pilkington: ET105B GGG Economy ⅝'' (16mm) Universal Molding - 75' roll M7 - Universal Molding w/butyl - ¼ (7mm) x 75' Roll ET206 70' roll universal moulding PUGM7 Marcy - Pro-Grade Universal Underglass Molding (Solid Rubber) - 13/32'' (10mm) x 75' Single-Extrusion