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@@gigglefactor72 appreciated, Many thanks 👍

@@waynethompson7472 Yes it seems to be a fairly common issue, if you haven't already check out my update video I posted recently where I look into a another potential location for water ingress 👍

@@hamydkadi7448 Thanks for watching, There is a part 2 video as well I released a few weeks ago if you haven't already seen it where I look at and rectify another potential leak area 👍

@@q9home1 Glad you sorted it, hard to believe modern cars can suffer from water leaks like this but at least they are all relatively easy fixes, thanks for the comment and for watching 👍

@@grim-upnorth It seemed the sensible thing to do before I fitted the 4 walls especially the osb end grain, I also painted the osb boards and wooden base around the perimeter on the underside as well. With the weather turning and work commitments I'm struggling to get to the point of it being completely water tight, I started it in early summer I should have pulled my finger out sonner, thanks for watching and the Sub 👍

​@@101projects2 For us DIYers who don't have the pressure of having to do this for income, it's really easy for the poor weather to demotivate us and cause delays to the build. Goodness knows I've had my fair share of unmotivated weekends, or weekends where I've been so absolutely physically broken by the build that I just need more than a single week break from it.

@@grim-upnorth throw in trying to film it for content because we haven't got enough going on 😅 that said I enjoy it, if I put the camera down I may well have got it finished by now.

@@101projects2 Haha, yes indeed. Especially when you have to take advantage of a break in the weather, the added prep, pieces to camera, and lets face it... the many many re-takes, just adds unwanted time to what could be just an hour's work lol

Thanks for watching, I totally get your point, and I do prefil oil filters when I can, but it's location based if a filter screws straight up vertically or at a 45 degree angle all is good, if it screws down or horizontally (like it does on this Fiesta) you spill at best some at worse all the oil you just put in the filter down the engine block. The car is on about 140k now and I've changed the oil and filter I think twice since posting this video 👍🏼

@@stephent1117 Thanks for watching, I wish I had room for a 10x10, well I have but I want some usable garden left. That's interesting, The Bitumen paint I'm using is literally like tar it's so thick it makes my hand hurt after a while when applying it with a brush can't see how it would wash off, that said the edges I painted black will be concealed and away from the elements once the walls and roof are fully in place. I did something similar I painted the underside of the osb boards approximately 8 inches or so in from the outer edges just in case any driving rain or even thawing snow makes its way into the small ventilation gap between the ground and the base of the workshop which is unlikely I think.

@@shaun30-3-mg9zs many thanks, part 3 is in the making 👍

Cheers Phill, it's taken me a while to get this one out there, hopefully part 3 won't take as long, I still need to watch you latest chisel review video it's on my to do list 👍

I enjoyed your video thank you for posting. Without seeming negative I'm afraid that OSB is going to rot out really quickly, virtually anything else stands up better. It will be a nightmare to replace with the walls sat on top.

​@@SiApPeter many thanks glad you enjoyed it, part 3 is in the making just battling the bad weather. I'm fully committed now as the 4 walls are already in place, But I hear ya, I'm aware of the shortcomings of OSB but it is fairly common place on shed roofs and floors, I've protected the most vulnerable part of the boards, the edges and end grain with black bitumen paint, the shed I took down stood for about 18 years had a thin 11mm osb floor that was largely still intact with the exception of one area where there was a water leak.

@@asusroggamers949 many thanks, keeps your eyes peeled I'll be releasing a Part 2 "1 year later" video soon.

Many thanks for the additional info

@@elray2446 It's actually 'You're dumb' ....just saying 🤷🏻😉

@@jeffjiegao It was worth a try, from my own experience I find the post being in place is more often a hindrance than a help when it comes to breaking up and digging out the concrete.

@@michaelleonardis1540 I'm ok with being wrong, it was 1 post that's all I needed to replace, with in a few hours the old concrete and post was out and the new post was in.

I've had success using a 4x4 as a lever with the fulcrum OFF the concrete, but as close as possible to it. Brings up the concrete along with the post. I'm not aware of any method that leaves a square hole in concrete that doesn't move unless you cut off the post and drill and chip it out of the concrete. But why would you want that? A new post of the same size won't fit back down that square hole. You usually want the concrete to come out as well as the post (faster, easier).

@@rfcasey I'll be honest absolutely no scientific thought was put into it 😅 although I kind of guessed what was going to happen, I was certain the 2 foot deep hole full of concrete holding the post in wasn't going to be the weak link plus it was also well bonded to the side of the concrete pathway making it even more stubborn, I just happens to have the Jack close by so decided to give it a go, I used a impact drill to remove the concrete, the video was made less than 24 hours ago and the new post is now in place 👍

@@LifeBy10000Cuts I didn't want a square hole, the new post was bigger in diameter anyway, I just suspected that the post may have pulled out the ground leaving the concrete in place as that's happend to me before, I was always going to remove the old concrete, no vehicle access unfortunately so I resorted to digging out old concrete and new post is now in place 👍

@@101projects2 Glad to hear it worked out. Never can argue with success. A farm jack may prove to be a better tool for this application. I also do realize you sometimes have to make do with what you have. Best of luck

​@@rfcaseymany thanks, I was doing just that using tools and wood I had available at the time, I have another fence post that probably needs replacing in the not too distant future so I may do a 2nd video and give it another go using some different methods 🤔... we'll see

Thank you very much appreciated 👍, next video is partly made but a little way off releasing, breaking up the concrete wasn't too bad to be honest, disposing of it was the hardest part, filled up 5 flexible rubble buckets at a time loaded them into my ford fiesta and taking to my local recycling centre, only look 7 visits 😅 although I kept some of it for hardcore for the new workshop base.

Many thanks, hope it was helpful 👍

Hi thanks for the comment, give it a go it really isn't too difficult to do, no links to parts unfortunately but easy to find, black sealant is from Halfords it's Granville black sealant, the black tape is just heavy duty duct tape, and the rubber grommets and rear light seal I purchased from my local Ford dealer as it was cheaper but the same parts can be found on eBay with a quick search but are a little more expensive..good luck👍

@@101projects2 thank you going to give it a go I seem to be getting water in the boot even when there is no rain ! Little worried haha can I ask where you got the trim tool from please ? I don’t currently have a set

@@mdavies9949 The particular one I use I've had for about 20 years from when I was in the motortrade, Amazon or eBay is your best bet, Trim removal tool, for less than £5 you can get a set of 3 or 4 👍

@@101projects2 I did it this weekend and it worked thank you! The only difference I had was mine had a parking sensor and I couldn’t get it off but it wasn’t an issue. Thanks again

@@mdavies9949 Smashed it 👍

Many thanks, glad you liked the video and found it helpful, I purchased a tube of Granville Black Silicone Sealant from Halfords, not expensive and designed for this type of job 👍

@@101projects2 really appreciate the message back. I will get myself down to Halfords 🙏

Many thanks, Just wish I was a little more skilled and creative to maximise it's potential, glad you liked it 👍

@@101projects2 It takes time. We are all on a journey with this woodworking stuff. As long as you’re enjoying it and you get value from it then the rest will come in time.

@@fathogwoodworking If all goes to plan more content coming soon... hopefully 🤞

Glad it helped, Watch a few YT videos and then armed with your new found knowledge and a few similar tools have a go yourself, good stuff 👍

Many thanks for the comment it's appreciated, Yes I agree with you I believe the holes are there for that exact reason, well that's what I've read anyway..👍

Many thanks much appreciated, glad it was helpful 👍

Thanks for the kind comment, hope the video helps 👍

Purchased them from my local Ford dealership as it was cheaper than buying them online 👍

@@101projects2 Ah. I do not have a dealership anywhere close to me so I'll have to find out what the OE-number is for 'em.

From memory as it was a while ago now I remember at the time searching on eBay and I found the OE part was available from several sellers but was roughly twice the price compared to the main dealer.

Hard to say unfortunately, it's difficult when you can't see behind trims, if it was me I'd strip all plastic trims out the boot and maybe even the back of the roof lining, climb in the back with a touch and get someone to pour water over the car and look for any signs of water ingress

Doesn't need to be pretty as long as it does the job 👍

It's probably not as thin as it looks, it's black sealant on black paint, Apart from the top seams the rest is hidden behind the bumper so won't be seen so as long as it does the job it's fine, but for the Top seams (and all the other areas) I just took my time wearing a glove and smoothed it out with my finger.

OK great! Thanks for the reply, appreciate it!

That is quite possible, it gets surprisingly dirty behind the rear light units and bumper.

If you mean the rubber trim that runs the full length of the roof on each side, I guess water could be leaking in under there, I could be wrong but I think those rubber seals are bonded on with some sort of adhesive so maybe tricky to remove, if you think it's leaking from under there it maybe easier to try and drop the roof lining on one side from inside and look from underneath to confirm your suspicions first.

@@101projects2 thanks I reapplied the sealant as I think it was a bit wet when I put it on so hadn't sealed properly & put some sealant on a wooden cocktail stick and pushed it in the gap yesterday (not the most professional!) Looks to have hopefully done the trick 🤞 thanks for the video super helpful can't tell you how horrible it had made my car!!!

Many thanks, it took over a year of ownership for our problems to start.

Many thanks for your kind words I will try and get some more informative videos out soon, I'm glad the video was of some use, well done on fixing the leak 👍 - and yes we've definitely had our fair share of rain this month.

I purchased both from my local Ford dealership, I found it cheaper than buying on line 👍

Thanks for your message, I'm not sure if I can help but feel free to send a picture to ...' my100and1projects@gmail.com '... 👍

Thanks for the comment, this was a rushed video that I very nearly didn't post so nice to hear it came out ok, it was all filmed and edited on my phone which is a Google pixel in cinematic mode and edited using a generic editing app 👍

Thanks for the comment, I don't have access to the car that often as it's located 4 hrs from me, I've checked it 2 or 3 times since I did the repairs and I haven't seen any sign of water ingress since the repair 👍

I’ve just finished sealing up everything with Evo Stik all purpose silicone hope it stops the leak, is it best to not drive for 24hrs so it sets?

@@jamiem5319 I'd follow whatever the instructions are on the sealant tube reference curing time.

Appreciated, many thanks 👍

I'm on my 5th fiesta in total, this is the first one I've experienced this problem, but Suzuki are a good reliable Japanese brand, you go with whatever makes you happy 👍

Glad it helps, it's a fairly straightforward job 👍

Thanks for the comment, hope the video helps 👍

Thanks for your comment, unfortunately I don't own a Ford KA so can't help...sorry.

Since doing all the repairs in the video I have not experienced water collecting in the rear footwells, it was behind the passenger seat in my case (Shown at the beginning of video) and just damp behind drivers seat. Although I suspected it was the top seam welds and missing rubber grommets for the light units causing most of my issues I decided to fix all the common areas so it'll remain a mystery exactly which one was causing the problem for me.

hi, sorry i’m abit late to this topic, mine has the same issue, water ingress in the boot and under drivers seat. did you fix any of the seams at the front of the car to solve the footwell ingress? or did fixing the boot area stop this?

@@domtaylor5489 No problem, I did do some investigation work at the front of the car that I didn't include in the video, but I didn't find anything or any signs of water ingress, Other common causes are blocked drains holes on the bottom of the doors causing the inside of the door to fill with water and find it's way into the car, (mine were ok) as well as the plastic door membrane sandwiched between the inner door panel and outer door skin can fail and let water in that way, I also removed the scuttle panel, black trim (between bonnet/hood and windscreen) and cleaned all the debris out that was trapped under it as I found 1 video suggesting that could also cause water ingress. Just to clarify in my instance although I never found the exact location I did track the Water getting in somewhere at the rear of my car somewhere round the rear light unit area and water was collecting in the spare wheel well and in the rear left hand side foot well, the rear right footwell was damp only and the front footwells completely dry, the top seam welds in the video can allow water to travel forwards into the footwells area or backwards into the boot area, depending on where and at what angle your car is parked, hope that helps 👍

@@101projects2 super mate, thank you for the clarification.