Відео

@@serenahernandez550 I can possibly help you. What’s it doing or not doing, to make you believe it needs fixed?

@@King250sx-R it’s sounds like calling metal every time I drive it I think it’s the wheel Barton but don’t know where to get it from and the air turns on but it’s doesn’t blow cold at all it’s blows kind of cold air when I drive it it doesn’t have a radio I wanted to put one in also the window regulator broke don’t know where to get that part and having a hard time finding somebody who will help for a fair price people be asking for too much nowadays

@@King250sx-R I also have an 03 g35 and it’s @178 k miles so I thought it was in pretty good shape for the year and amount of miles on it

@@serenahernandez550 I usually go to eBay and make sure I get Detroit axle stuff. They make a lot of oem stuff, aftermarket and it’s not as cheap as the other junk I’ve bought. So Detroit axle would probably have your wheel bearing. After driving, you can place your hand close to, but not on, the center of the hub of the wheel, on the outside. If it’s unusually hot, that could possibly be your bad wheel bearing. Also, when was the last time your brake pads were replaced? It could possibly be that instead. I’m not there, so all I can do is give you ideas and ways to test things, to come up with solutions. Does the air come on automatically and you can’t control it? There’s an auto button, that you may have pressed, but the earlier g35’s are known for the radio failing and because the controls for the air, share with the radio controls, it prevents you from controlling your air. Even the temperature. Or, it could possibly be a water pump going out, and that would mean it’s not pumping the coolant and the bearings are rubbing metal to metal. They have a weep hole that allows coolant to leak out, and would be leaking down the drivers side along the oil pan. There’s videos showing how to replace the water pump on UA-cam. Most are pretty good and straight forward videos. If the water pump is bad, it wouldn’t be efficiently circulating the coolant that flows through the heater core/element. That is what most cars use to control the heat flow. They have a door that allows for outside air or air-conditioning to mix with the heated air and meter the temperature for your desired cabin temp. If the coolant isn’t flowing, then you’re not getting enough heat dissipating off the heater core to create the heat you need, to regulate the in cabin temperature. Also, if the water pump is leaking coolant, then your coolant level would be low. If it’s low, that would cause air pockets in the coolant system and restrict the coolant efficiency. I hope this into helps point you in the right direction. Should the wheel bearing be bad, you can jack the car up with the wheels off the ground enough to grab the top and bottom of the tire and pull the bottom and push the top, back and forth simultaneously in a rocking motion, and if it seems like there’s a lot of play or movement, then that’s possibly your bad wheel bearing. Good luck. Please get back to me, once you’ve done these tests.

Also tuned ECU through uprev (factory no dyno) and skunk 2 plenum spacer w/ k&n air filter

@@daneloperena have you verified fuel and spark? There are two cam sensors. One on the back of each head and a crank sensor in the bottom of the bell housing. Get a timing light and confirm it’s is intact in time. Also there is a specific way to install the crank and cam sensors. The flywheel acts as the reluctor wheel for the 3 wire Hall effect crank sensor. The cam sensors make sure the timing is true between the flywheel and camshafts. The flywheel represents the crankshafts position. Seems like easy and common knowledge. If you don’t do the sequence correctly, the ecu will think the engine is 180 degrees out and it won’t start, due to ignition timing. Pull coil pack and spark plug number one and ensure TDC position. Then reinstall crank and can sensors. Unplug the battery before you do anything electrical on these cars as they will blow a fuse. Also, check all fuses. There is an IPDM and it’s the fuse box/relay block against the fire wall on the passenger side of the vehicle. Try that’s things and get back to me. If you have instagram you can add me there @king250sxr. Make sure the security light isn’t on in the clock read out in the middle of the dash. Try locking and unlocking your door with the fob and with the key in the door lock, numerous times. Security disabled spark and fuel if it thinks the car is being stolen.

@@King250sx-R I confirmed I am getting fuel, however my rpm’s are not moving when I’m cranking and if they are extremely little. I don’t believe I’m getting spark. I unplugged my bank 2 cam sensor near catalytic converter and am not getting any turn over which I’ve read would have happened regardless of timing was off. I went ahead and re plugged the sensors back in. Do you believe I’m not getting spark due to idpm being bad? Considering I’ve already attempted changing/unplugging crank and cam sensors. All spark plugs are new including ignition coils. Just wondering the reason for no spark

@@daneloperena ecu could be cutting spark or you have a bad connection in one of your connectors in the crank or cam sensors. Check maf sensor plug too. My wife’s maxima wouldn’t run and I bought a new maf sensor and it was still the same thing. A wire eventually came out, and it had green corrosion like you get on a penny, I bought a new maf plug and installed it, and it worked great. So check and make sure your connectors aren’t corroded. Also make sure your security light isn’t on in the middle of the dash, it’ll be a blinking red light. The light could be out and not working, so just try locking and unlocking your doors either manually with the key in the drivers door, or the remote fob a couple times, and see if it helps. Crank and no start is mostly a bad crank sensor or bad connection or limited signal from the ecu. Bad grounding could also do it, so check your grounds and get back to me. Good luck.

@@daneloperena could be a number of reasons. Ecu related, nats related, or a simple sensor failure. Possibly even a bad ground or connection. You’re gonna have to break out your voltmeter and start testing for continuity on wires between the sensors and the signal destinations or sources. Then test for signals. Obd ports and scanners can only tell you so much. Assuming you are getting spark, and fuel, then you’d be having an air issue. As simple as a temp sensor or maf sensor could limit the necessary parameters required for starting.

@@Zurdo3PR sounds like she locked up on you, bud. You can pull it apart to see what happened.

@@isai888 you mean neutral safety? That’s covered on how I wired it, in the video. You need that wired to let the car know it’s not in a driving gear when you turn the key switch. Message me on instagram and I’ll help walk you through it. @King250sxr

@@PowerzBlack I guess you could try Z1 motorsports or Nissan Infiniti dealerships. I’d just pull one from the junkyard.

My 04 G35 shut off one night. I was changing a fuse, something sparked, smelt a little burning then the car shut off. It cranks but wont turnover. I replaced the fuel pump relay with a different one under hood to see if that was it and it still won’t start, but when I sprayed starter fluid in the engine it turned over for a second then shut off. Pretty sure it has something to do with the fuel pump but that’s as far as I got. What do you think it could be?

@@PowerzBlack add me on instagram. I don’t always get UA-cam notifications. I’m king250sxr on instagram

@@farhanfarooq8666 could it be your starter? Is the motor turning? Have somebody crank it while you watch the motor. If it turns then it’s not the starter. If it’s not turning, it could be the Solenoid didn’t kicking out to engage the flywheel. Message me on instagram. UA-cam doesn’t always notify me when I get a message. It’s King250sxr

@@King250sx-R I sent you a request

@@unknownsuspect5362 UA-cam isn’t letting me know when I get messages and I don’t have them turned off. Idk what’s up with it. Please feel free to follow and message me on instagram. I am more than happy to help you any way I can. Instagram is King250sxr

@@louisvillalba7695 ask me ok instagram. It’s King250sxr. UA-cam isn’t notifying me when I get messages on here.

Sure, what would you like to know?

@@louisvillalba7695 you can add me on instagram. It’s @king250sxr

Yes

Idk why mine started this way, but I learned it’s not normal to be able to bypass everything. I can’t say it’ll work for yours because logically it shouldn’t have worked for mine. So I’m gonna say no, it won’t fix yours. The start signal I used, goes through the BCM and ecm and doesn’t allow fuel or spark until it’s ok with nats which is their anti theft system. I eventually had to get both keys reprogrammed for the car to work. Try inserting the key into the door lock on drivers side door and turning it to lock and unlock your doors. Do it 3 times each way and it might disable nats. Good luck.

Simple answer no. Idk why it worked on mine. The ecu and nats should never have allowed fuel and spark to happen. I put all the wires back to how they were supposed to be. My issue was that somebody put a remote start and keyless entry on it, and I didn’t have the key for it. It was always locked and I had to unlock it with the key in the door. I uninstalled the remote start and reattached the wires how they were supposed to be, and the key works without bypassing anything. As long as a car has fuel injectors, you’d need injector drivers or a way to control them during operation, so the ecu does that. In the carbureted cars you can get away with bypassing everything and doing key switch power to the starter. Point being this was just to show I was able to get my $300 car to run.

It sounds like an electrical issue, but they’re known for the throttle bodies going bad. Also sounds like maybe a maf sensor issue or the throttle pedal is drive by wire or DBW for short. It’s also in the throttle body. It’s a wire or set of wires that go to a potentiometer on the throttle pedal. Potentiometers are resistors that rotate on an axis and change resistance as they go from bottom to top, which also changes the voltage supplied and that’s how the ecu sees the throttle pedal. You can test these signals and at closed throttle or no pedal application, you should be around 0.5 volts and at wot or wide open throttle, meaning pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, you should see 5 volts. If the sensor or potentiometer goes bad, you won’t have any throttle response. If the throttle bodies are bad, the throttle plate could be stuck in a certain position and will only allow the car to start when it reaches a certain voltage. The throttle bodies will go out of sync with the pedal and will leave the throttle plate stuck in a position not the same as the pedals application. So if you push the pedal the throttle plate is supposed to electronically open and close in sync to the distance you’ve pushed the pedal. You can try a throttle body relearn, and there are several videos to show you the process. Most people say they needed to buy new throttle bodies, because they’re the Achilles heal of these cars. People try to clean them, but end up just replacing them anyhow. So hopefully the throttle body relearn works for you, I would also look into cleaning your maf sensor. Make sure the rubber boot in the intake piping isn’t torn. It will look normal, but will be torn in the crease, so you have to physically pull on it to inspect the creases, on both. Also check for vacuum leaks. Broken or dry rotted rubber lines or hoses will cause the revving. Any unseen or unregistered air that comes into the intake behind the maf sensors, will cause this. Check your air filters as well. I’ve learned to keep a voltmeter handy because the scan tool gives you a general idea. It doesn’t tell you exactly what’s causing your issues. IAC or intake air control module or motor is responsible for idling until it goes into closed loop. Meaning when the car is in warm enough, it will rely on the exhaust gasses in the exhaust system to control idling. So the O2 sensors will take over the job of sending signals to the ECU for optimum AFRs. I hope this helps. Let me know what you’ve found. Also try using a scan tool if you have an engine code.

@@King250sx-R no engine light comes on so i should get new throttle body’s ?

@@raykeezy try the relearn first. Also try cleaning your maf sensors and throttle bodies. They make maf sensor cleaner. It’s a spray can. Unplug them and spray them down really well. Let it dry completely. See if that helps. Also the crank and cam sensors go bad. They’re on the back of the heads between the motor and the fire wall. The crank sensor is in the bottom of the bell housing. Really helpful if you know how to use a voltmeter.

@@King250sx-R i have a electric guy coming tmr to where are you located ? i’m in Ca i’ll pay you 😂

@@raykeezy lol I’m clear across the country bro. I’m also putting a roof on my house and trying to finish my wife’s kitchen. I haven’t had any time to work on any of my cars, so I wouldn’t have enough time to work on yours, even if we were neighbors. I can give advice. That’s about it. If you have a scanner, some do live data. If you get it started, the scan tool could show you how it’s running and you can go through all the sensors and their voltages and signals in real time and that should give you some answers. So jump start it when you have access to a scan tool that can do live data. Show that to a mechanic and a good one will tell you which values are off and what they should be at certain conditions. When is the last time you did a tune up? Replace spark plugs, change oil, replace air filters, flush coolant, etc? Coolant temp sensor will also put it into limp mode. It’s the ecus way of protecting the engine from damage. That means it will rev to a certain rpm and no matter what you do, it’ll stay stuck there until you replace the sensor or repair the issue causing limp mode. That usually yields a cel or check engine light. That’s the best advice I can give from 3000 miles away.

Sorry for the delayed response. I’m really busy remodeling my house and putting a new roof on. I’m always busy with something. Thanks for your patience. These cars are known for electrical flaws. They get corroded on the battery terminals and in the cables themselves. There is a fusible link box attached to the positive battery lead. Make sure those metal 90 degree blades aren’t broken, the fusible links inside are still connected, and no fuses are blown. These cars are loaded with relays and lots of wiring and an elaborate anti theft system. I’m not sure how extensive your automotive knowledge is, but with some testing, you can figure something out. There’s no simple fix when it comes to cars. They’re nearly as complex as humans. When you think it’s one thing, it could be something unrelated entirely. If it cranks then you have signal to the starter and the relay. The crank sensor and camshaft position sensors all use the same signals, as they are what’s called a 3 wire Hall effect sensor. They have 12v supplied, ground, and 5v reference or signal. It’s controlled by the ecu. You can test for these signals with a voltmeter. It honestly sounds to me like a bad battery or battery lead/cable. They get stretched over time and don’t stay connected and can give you weird symptoms. You could also have a pinched wire in the knee bolster under the steering wheel, a series of wires or “trunk” of wires runs under there from the switch and fuse box in the kick panel by your foot. If it’s a manual, it’s easy to get them snagged on the clutch and brake pedals. It has an IPDM or “intelligent power distribution module”. They have integrated electronic parts and if it goes bad, you’ll have weird symptoms as well. Do you have any check engine codes that can be read by a scan tool? You can take the codes they list (they usually give a description with the codes) and give them to a garage or plug them into google and that will get you a ball park of where the source of your problem might be. I hope this helped some. Good luck.

Ever found why?

@@klenthecreezi1041 ecu

Let me know if you figure it out bro

Look in the middle of your dash above the radio where your temp and clock are. There could be a security light. It will prevent fuel and spark from happening. Try inserting the key in the door and turning it back and forth locking and unlocking your doors 3-5 times. If that doesn’t work, you can try unlocking and relocking your doors with the fob, and if that still doesn’t work, you can have the key reprogrammed at the dealership for around $100 some dollars. Also the crank sensor is located in the transmission bellhousing under the car as it used the flywheel for reluctance and that’s how it times the ignition. There are two crank sensors on the back of each head. They’re both black with green plugs. One is angled and one is straight. If you put a scan tool on it, read the codes and see what they imply. I hope this helps.

@@ninjaxgaminggamingchannel3082 you can also try swapping relays around to see if your relay is bad. You can probably use the fan relay temporarily, to see if it fixes it.

Have you checked all your fuses and grounds? It’s easy to miss stuff when you’re swapping engines and transmissions in. The M35x motor is the same as the G35. They’re both 3.5 liter v6 that use the same ecu base maps to run. Does the engine turn over and run? It sounds almost as if you’re having trouble communicating with the TCM. Make sure you didn’t blow a fuse (easy to do if you didn’t unplug the battery when doing the swap), or pinch a wire. Did you remove the transmission, install the engine, and put the transmission back in, or did you leave the transmission in and mate the engine to it? There’s an IPDM on the firewall behind the battery. There’s transmission controls in it. Relays and fuses. There’s also a fuse inside the car at the drivers side foot well kick panel. There are 3 fuses labeled “elec parts”. Make sure none of those are blown. Take them out and physically inspect them. It’s easy to overlook them when you don’t pull them out and look. There must be a wire, ground that isn’t connected, or fuse blown, that allows that to work. If the car runs and drives, it’s part of the Illumination system. You could just need to disconnect the battery and allow everything to reset. The 07 engine should run off of the 04 G ecu. I swapped a g35 trans into my 07 M35x and it works fine, so it would be a similar scenario.

@@King250sx-R i haven’t checked all the fuses yet and it turns over but it doesn’t start, when i took the engine out i took the transmission out with it and the person that was helping me accidentally put to ground wires on the same bolt im not sure if that could be a problem and when I plugged the battery in i heard something pop

Look at your battery leads. On the positive one, there are fusible links. You can see them through the plastic windows. Are they all intact?

@@King250sx-R I checked them out none of them are blown on the battery , what fuses should I check?

@@deanthonydavis4163 you can go down through the ones in the drivers side kick panel and the IPDM, but honestly I’m not there and can’t accurately diagnose it through here. I do better hands on, I’d need to be there to further help.

Yeah if nats isn’t on, you could pull your knee bolster and there are thick wires grouped together. You can see where they run into the column and up to turn key tumbler. You could call a locksmith and try your luck with that, you could also, pull the column plastic and gauge bezel and all that, and unbolt the tumbler, with the battery DC’d of course, and use your keys to turn the tumbler and it should come off, then you can replace it with a brand new one, you could also disconnect your current tumbler in the harness, connect a new tumbler and harness, and use it that way as well. Without DC’ing your old and current tumbler. Lots of ways to bypass it. If your security light is solid on, try inserting your key in the key hole in the drivers’ door and locking and unlocking your doors several times until you see the light go out. It may think you’re trying to steal it. If that’s doesn’t work, try a different key. Make sure there are no obstructions along the steering shaft at all. Also check in your wheel wells for anything preventing the wheels from turning. There’s a way to bust that locking device too. Not sure if you want to go that route, but it’s your car, you do what you want. It would take a long bar through the steering wheel and a quick snapping like motion. But make absolutely sure there’s nothing preventing the wheels from turning, anything that may have fallen down in and obstructing the steering shaft or anything related. I wouldn’t recommend trying to snap the locking device in the steering wheel. If you do, it’s on you. You can bypass the signal to the starter until you’re blue in the face, but it won’t tell the ecu to free the column. So you’d still be driving with a locked steering wheel, make sure you’re wheels aren’t against a curb or anything like that. Sounds stupid, but I’ve done that. The steering wheel locks, then when you’re against a curb, you can’t turn the wheels far enough to disengage the steering wheel lock. Also check all your fuses. I hope any of this info helps, if not, I have plenty more ideas. Good luck.

@@King250sx-R Yoo man thanks for your input I will try some of those things. I’m in NJ I wish you were around to give me a hand. I’ll get back to you an let you know what happens. I’m at the point where I don’t care how this damn thing gets rigged. But I will definitely get back to you. You’re an awesome dude thanks for your knowledge

@@Brandon-kq2ygany luck ?

@@marquisab007 no lol I have a guy who say the ignition switch locked up just have to unlock it. I brought another car my Infiniti is still in my driveway

Did you ever find out what happened? My 06 g35x key wont turn in ifnition and ive tried everytbing.​@@Brandon-kq2yg

Maybe a fault in the starter? Are you good with a voltmeter? Possibly bad switch or relay? Look around for a melted relay or wire.

Did the nats light or security light go out, after the locksmith worked on it? If that light is still on, try inserting the metal physical key that’s inside the fob, into your key slot on your drivers door and locking and unlocking your door numerous times. I did 3 lock/unlock cycles and it worked for mine. If it still doesn’t work, try replacing your battery in your FOB, there’s also a fuse for nats. It’s “elec parts” in the kick panel on the drivers side footwell. If it’s NOT nats related, the crank and cam sensors will cause a crank and no start. Find out if that security light is still on, because it’s ran through the BCM and can be a headache to figure out. If there’s a check engine light or (cel) then get a code scanner on it and check with a garage or the internet for the code. Good luck.

It could be your park neutral safety switch. If it doesn’t sense it’s in park or neutral, it will be like the shifter isn’t fully pushed into park. It could actually be a number of things. If it’s a manual, there are sensors on either side of the transmission under the shifter boot. You’d have to be under the car to see them. They switch to ground. So signal is started as voltage on one side and the circuit is completed when they contact or are put into position (park/neutral), and the signal finds ground on the other side. If the switches are bad, they won’t complete the circuit, which is why you won’t see what gear you’re in. The signal comes from the tcm and travels through the IPDM on the firewall with all the fuses in it, on the passenger side behind your battery. These cars are known for several issues pertaining to the IPDM and tcm and even the valve body. Not saying this is your issue, but it could simply be a bad ground or sensor. Maybe you could have somebody look at those for you? Let me know what you think.

Need some info. Yes I can do a video on it. I Gotta know more about your issue. The issue could be in the transmission control module (TCU) itself, possibly in (if it has paddle shifters on the steering wheel) the clock spring or the paddle shifters themselves. There’s a switch on the side for manual mode, where you push the shifter to the side and manually shift is and if that switch is bad, it won’t know what gear you’re shifting too. The TCU could be bad or some other issue. Have you had it scanned?

@@King250sx-R i figured it out, i had to turn on the transmission computer, it still doesn’t start, i am having it looked at thank you

@@LuisPerez-hu7eidid you ever figure it out?

Hard to tell without actually being there, but what mods or repairs have you done recently? Chances are low that it’s your ecu. How many miles are on it? Maf sensor or crank and cam sensors will cause this. Also a bad battery. Nissans love full battery charge. If the battery is weak, it won’t start. Is it an auto or manual? Also make sure your security light isn’t on. It’s in the center of the dash. Sometimes locking and unlocking your drivers door with the key will disable it. Mine actually did this recently. Out of nowhere the keys will lose programming as well. If it has a fob try unlocking your doors with that as well. The car might not be seeing the key and thinking you’re trying to steal it. Try disconnecting your battery for 15 minutes and reconnecting it. Security disables the injectors and coils so all you’ll get are cylinders with fuel in them. Pull each coil pack, one by one, put a spark plug in the coil pack, lay it on the valve cover or something metal, and either look out between the hood and cowl to see if it sparks while cranking, or have somebody else crank or watch the spark plug. Don’t touch it while cranking, it’ll wake you up for sure. Try unplugging your maf sensor, cranking it, then plugging your maf back in. If you’ve done any mods or repairs recently, make sure all your ground wires are secured and their surfaces are cleaned and not corroded. That’s the best I can do without actually being there. Good luck.

Lol no. I’d hope not. It still runs good to this day.

Fuse box under the hood is kinda tucked back in and harder to get into. Where I jumped it at was on the other side of the relay and straight down to the starter. I’m still working on the car and have plans to LS swap it soon, but it’s fun learning about the VQ in the process.

I’m gonna do more to it this summer. So I may get it working then. I have a 5.3 ls I plan on swapping into it this summer, so I wasn’t worried about it atm, but I may do the cruise control wiring for content purposes before the Ls swap. Between this and my 240 I don’t get time to work on either a lengthened period of time. With work and the two project cars, I’m pretty strapped for time

Make sure your security light isn’t on. If it is, then you possibly, have a key that needs reprogrammed or an issue with your nats (Nissan Antitheft System). Usually for 100 bucks Nissan can reprogram your key and it’ll work. Also check your fuses.

Yes auto ecu and harness. Didn’t change anything else. Just bolted the cd009 up and started doing the wiring and pedal install.

It shouldn’t go into limp mode. Limp mode is a feature to protect engine abuse. It has nothing to do with transmission characteristics. Did you change ecus? If you changed ecus that would cause a security issue and you won’t be able to start it. If you’re wheel speed sensors aren’t working, it will sense slip and cut fuel to keep you from spinning the wheels. If your maf sensor isn’t working properly or isn’t plugged in, it won’t accelerate and and will regulate rpms to 2k. Same with cam sensors. It’ll struggle to start but crank all day. Limp mode is an engine issue. Make sure you didn’t pinch a wire between the bellhousing and motor. Check all your grounds and clean them up while you’re at it. They’re 10mm bolts and the ground strap on the drivers side next to the exhaust manifold just unplugs. Make sure it’s connected as well. Let me know when you’ve done all of that. It should run and drive and shift fine without doing any wiring. Only reason for wiring is to enable park neutral safety, reverse lights, and cruise control. Good luck.

If it’s a security issue (security light will flash) red light on the dash next to the clock. It means you need the key and ecu synched together. You can have it done at a dealership for about 100 bucks. They just connect a computer and it takes minutes. Also check and make sure you’re accelerator isn’t disconnected, blocked by something, or working properly. I got the wrong pedals for my swap. I got g37 clutch and brake pedals (they were listed as g35 pedals) and the brake sensors were too long. They were pushing the brake pedal in at rest and making the front brakes apply. Made me think I had bad wheel bearings or calipers or my abs unit was messed up. All things to check. Hope this info helps you.

Why can’t you retain the manual harness?

Reason for asking is you’d have more info trying to adapt the auto setup to the manual car because the auto harness only works with the auto ecu.?Nissan anti theft system (nats) would need reprogrammed at a dealership and that would be extra money. So if you’re trying to save a buck, it’s cheaper to adapt the manual harness to the auto engine. To simply answer your question, yes the process would be similar assuming you had all your ducks in a row with the harness and engine swap. I would swap over any sensors from the manual engine to the auto and adapt it that way because it would be cheaper. I don’t know the whole story on your swap though. Not even sure if you still have the manual engine and harness. Need more info to thoroughly answer your question.

The manual and auto de are similar in wiring. My wife’s maxima is a cvt auto and I’ve been debating (before I decided on the LS swap) about grabbing an engine from a maxima because that has more hp and is pretty much the exact same with some differences. But nothing that can’t be swapped over. Hoping any of that info helps. Good luck.

Haven’t made it that far yet. I went backwards with the car recently. My tires were rubbing hard on the fender wells and it ruined them. Turns out G35 sedans on coilovers are difficult to fit 10” wide 20” wheels onto with no issues. I broke a motor mount and finally decided to fix that 02 sensor, and I tried to install my double din dvd screen and broke my A/C and now it’s stuck on, so that’s gonna cost over 250 bucks to fix so I can have heat in the winter, plus I need to fix a coolant line on my 240 and swap transmissions in my M35X. Those all take priority over cruise control, but I’ve seen people do theirs and it works, so when I make another video, I’ll try to cover it with as much detail and simplicity as possible. In other words, I got you covered bro, just won’t be for a while yet.

Depending on the year, I think the Z is closer to the G coupe and the wiring varies on them. Due to different years, versions, packages, and country of origin and a ton of other factors. It’s best to google your year make and model and include IPDM in your text and it’ll bring up what ipdm you have. Visually look under your hood and try to match yours up, physically with the one it says yours could be, to confirm. Then you’ll be able to wire from that. G35driver.com has been my map on this swap and the guys on there are helpful and knowledgeable. Feel free to send me any questions you might have and I’ll do my best to answer them. Good luck if you’re doing the swap.

Oh yeah, I’ve been driving it around, and it’s been great. No issues. I lost power to the reverse lights relay, and had to run my own 12v to the one side of it, but everything works as it should. I have done other stuff to the car since and just haven’t had time to upload any new content. Feel free to ask me whatever you need to know, I’ll do my best to answer everything to the best of my knowledge.

@@King250sx-RI ran into an issue about the clutch petal kinda breaking the firewall sheet, is there any problem you ran into off the clutch pedal damaging your firewall ?

@@luisc2425 I honestly haven’t had this issue, nor has it been something that I’ve commonly noticed in other people’s builds. I actually installed the 2008 G37 clutch and brake pedal setup, because they sent me the wrong one. It wasn’t until I installed the clutch pedal that I noticed there was some minor differences between the 04-05 g35 and g37 setups. The g37 pedal mounts up top and has a hole for it. I drilled through the bracket and ran a bolt down through and modified some other parts of it to get it all to fit, but it doesn’t move at all.

Did you get yours to work from this video or did you run into any issues with it? Reason for asking is I was having trouble with my (front wheels locking up the brakes and thought it was and electrical issue or something I had done) so I undid some wiring and grounds and messed up my reverse lights, so I was able to later, go back in and apply 12v to the other yellow wire with red stripe on the other side of the reverse lamp relay and get my lights working again.

Hope it works for you or atleast got you going in the right direction. You’re welcome and good luck.

Was just checking in to see if this worked for you, it worked for me for a little bit and I changed a wire and it quit working. I have since then ran 12v from the battery to the other yellow with red stripe wire and it fixed it better.

@@King250sx-R hey man, thanks for showing the pnp switch. Going to attempt today. As for the reverse switch, I find it far easier to run the 2 reverse wires to wires #5 and #7 on the 10 pin TCM harness. They’re black and red. No need to run to the engine bay and tap into relays, and works perfect. Hope this helps!

Always willing to learn. Thanks for the tip. Maybe I’ll make a vid and bring attention to that method as well. Thanks.

@@King250sx-R yeah I noticed yours is an 04 so you’ll likely have the 3 tcm plugs. I’m sure there’s a way to do it on there just have to use a wiring schematic. Did your cruise control work after the wiring? I did the same wiring and I’ve got nothing

Swap is great. Although I found out I have too much power for my skinny tires, so now I can slide sideways super easily, drag racing isn’t so great. Spinning ain’t winning. I have a new and better clutch in it, and it wants to go, so that LSD is doing it’s job. It’s been holding 500 whp for about a year or so. The swap is super easy, I’d say do it and don’t look back. Much better than a welded diff, because you’re not waiting for it to suddenly lock up or blow apart.

@@King250sx-R Glad you are enjoying the car! I hated the fact that I would have to weld the diff but found a 300zx diff for 100 bucks being sold locally. I found your video so now I feel good about doing the swap. You are the only one who showed both driver and passenger side axles, so I really appreciate that!

I drilled out the factory spot welds, and used my pry bar to pry it up. Also used a chisel to help dig the rest of the spot welds up.

This and drilling the holes for the master is the worst part of the 6mt swap.

@@blackmesaresearch2 yeah definitely, the hardest part is eyeing up the clutch pedal mounting spot without a template or anything to go off of. Everything else is plug and play.

Simple swap with the right parts. After sifting through the forums to get all the right info, my goal was to simplify it without making it seem rushed. Glad you got what you needed from it. Good luck with your build bro, and thanks for the sub.

i’m doing the same swap! just been researching,making sure everything is good to go

I just bought it and didn’t know the one key wasn’t programmed. Couldn’t figure out why it would start one time and not the other. Make sure your keys don’t need reprogrammed. The security light will be flashing in the middle of the dashboard if it’s not recognizing the key. There’s an immobilizer that recognizes the magnetic signal behind the switch. It has a magnetic field that goes around the switch tumbler and when you put the key in? The security light won’t flash if it recognizes the keys signal. So, if you have a security light, either your immobilizer or nats sensor is bad, or your key lost it’s signal. Don’t know how it happens, but apparently the forums say it’s a common thing.

@@King250sx-Rhey so I recently got a 2004 g35 coupe (an automatic) @125k miles on the dash. It has power but when I go to turn the key there’s no crank but more like a consistent electrical clicking sound. Not sure if that would be an issue with the alternator or maybe the starter? There’s no metal shavings in the oil whatsoever

@@alexandernorton8759 check your battery and terminals. Make sure you’re getting 12.5 volts with the key off and 14.2 with it running. If you’re gonna work on these things, you need a voltmeter handy. It sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Could even be a relay or fuse. Send me some videos after you do some testing and see if you figured it out.

@@King250sx-R would the remote still Lock and unlock doors if this was my problem?

@@Z71Joser yes. Try unlocking your doors manually with the key in the hole. Mine just did this recently. I had unplugged the battery for a time because I wasn’t using the car for a few months and I put a battery maintainer on it. When I needed to move the car, I hooked the battery back up and tried to start it and the security light was on. I thought I had to take it to Nissan to have the keys reprogrammed, but I just had to put the key in the switch to unlock it and it’s fine now. You can also try unlocking with the FOB, but if it’s a security issue, it might not always work. The security just keeps the injectors or coils from firing. Not sure which, as I haven’t checked thoroughly into it, but if that happens, everything else will work, but the engine won’t start. It will constantly turn over, but won’t fire up. I hope this helps.

Let me know if you need any help. I’ve gone through hell with mine, and have a ton of advice for you. This car made 385 wheel hp on 5 cylinders on a 500 whp setup, because number 6 coil stopped working and the other coils were on their way out. I bought new oem and have yet to go back and get my 500 whp dyno run. That’s on 93 pump gas. Also have a g35 sedan 5at that I’m in the process of converting to a 6mt via cd009.

Manufactured before dec 1993.

Nice score. I love you pull it yards. I paid 150 to an online junkyard for this diff. Most I've seen haven't been under 200 bucks. The you pull it yard I go to,wanted 170, so I saved 20 bucks by getting it online.