Відео

'Thinking outside the box', excellent work. Maybe a little heat on the wire when turning?

What a beaut! Superb job.

How much does this cost to convert into RHD

What was the measurement you used? I'm going to make the same

Looked at the original mineral blue? That midnight blue does look very nice, though. I'm facing a similar panel replacement on my coupe, with some trepidation, so thanks for a helpful video.

That's a good job......would have like a bit more in depth, as Im doing a 69 Cougar...well aint started yet...its only been 4 years.....I noticed the floor and firewall on the rhs is more sloped than the lhs, did you change this or modify this on our car. Yeah I know, 1000s have been done....but I thought they would be the same. Did you use the Aussie firewall parts and the original hookup for the column? Im looking at rack and pinion, aftermarket rhd column hopefully they make it. Cougar should be basically the same floor/firewall as the Stang. Any other videos or tips? Thanks.

Nice work. How did you do with tool to ensure the rear part of the bonnet curve follow the curve of the body of the car? The rear part of my bonnet is flat and the rear part of the body of the engine bay is curve. I like to know you would fix the flat rear lip of the bonnet so it would follow the curve of the rear lip opening of the engine bay? Thanks

A good decision my friend. I did exactly the same with slightly bigger mesh but yours looks better. It gives you a big advantage with engine cooling and is why the works cars fitted it.

It's 4yrs now so how did it work out? I'm considering doing the same. Great video thanks

Thanks for the info. Have a 37 Buick and temp gauge not working. Just ordered a gauge from India a$30 delivered to Australia and it does have the original type of capillary tube so we’ll see how it goes.

Great job!

Wow. Exactly the same job I've just concluded on my 59 MGA! Right down to the 1 x 1.4m 7mm mesh stainless steel. Except it's £56 in the UK. I opted to powder coat the grille surround silver, since it wasn't an original, but a poor quality repro. I noted only two fixings at the top when I disassembled mine. Looks like the middle bracket was a victim to the 1980's restoration. Looks like you did a great job and the plating's sweet. Love to see it fitted.

I wish you were my neighbor

What a great sight and sound. I've been following since the dark lockdown days. You've made a cracking job. Well done.

Quite a milestone. Congratulations! Thank you for making this reference material for those of who are and/or will build an MGA. Merry Christmas to you & your family!

My goodness, you've come a long way haven't you! Very tidy behind the dash. Have you tried the flush-trim side cutters for zip ties that leave no stub? Saves a bunch of shredded fingers sticking your hand up in there blind. All the best, Andrew

Well done!

Fantastic progress!! Looking forward to going for a spin when you're on the road!! 😊

Great job! I guess the key lesson is about keeping the bulb as cold as possible. You wouldn't want any ether vapour interfering with your soldering!

Great video. So where did you get the spare gauge from? The one you took the ether bulb from...

Hi what was the assembly clearance of the sleeve?

Excellent work there. Very nice trimming on the edges & great idea with the hessian backing.

Great job, well done Sir, bet you can't wait to drive her.

Looks fantastic. Well done.

Looking Good!

P r o m o S M 🤗

Another interesting video, Its looking good you must be happy with the progress so far, I'm sitting watching you work instead of working on mine, the weather here is getting better so I must get off my butt and finish it, cant wait to see the finished result.

Remarkable job you're doing!

if you notice, those captive nut spikes are stamped out in such a way that if the bolt resists turning with sufficient tenacity (which they will given sufficient time), they can and will all collapse in the SAME direction and/or partially tear out the wood, thus freeing the captured nut to turn in concert with the bolt inside. if this happens, profound disappointment will ensue. i would definitely use nuts and washers.

When trying to dry the water, it would help to flush with a cup or two of acetone. It will combine with the water and dry (outside) much faster with the heat gun.

Especially when you can buy a stainless one from Mike Beakhouse at Sportscar Metalworks here in the UK. Highly recommended.

Looking absolutely stunning. Well done.

Great job! Coming along nicely. :) Keep it up!

Looking amazing , well done 👍😁 , hope to acquire an mga in the not to distant future , beautiful lines .

Hi! Thank you so much for showing us this video! It's very well edited and so nice an information. But I'm looking for part two, as promised in the video, but can't find it! Please inform us!

Exciting stuff. Can't wait to see it come together , looking amazing . I will own an mga someday 😁

She's coming together beautifully! I share your spirit with making things like washers. No clue how they justify charging a fortune for simple things like this.

What a pleasant surprise this morning. The colour looks fantastic. Well done. Ian

white's an excellent choice for the DIY paint job. looks great and is easy to buff out to a nice shine. well done!

Looks amazing . Enjoying seeing the progress . You are doing an amazing job 👍

Get well soon. From USA California

Great video!

Endless details... Seeing the two pieces in profile on-screen makes me wonder if the original was two flat pieces welded together, whilst the Moss repro piece appears it's cut from a length of 90* angle stock, which would account for the angles not matching up. Does that seem right to you, with pieces in hand? Thank you for documenting all these intricacies!

Good work fixing that Moss top brackets..10-32 thread machine screws work well in the 2BA threads. I rebuilt my windscreen with them. Also, I made new threading plates as you did, but made them out of brass after seeing the rusty mess that the originals had.

Wishing you a speedy recovery.

Any good restoration takes time! Take it easy. Happy you're on the mend.

Best wishes.

Great to see you back!

Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to argue that the body can be removed from the chassis on MGA. My father, brother and I did 1 frame off and one body swap due to collision. There’s a place in the workshop manual that says once the fasteners are out you bump the body forward to the chassis when in fact you move it back. Can’t remember how we found that out but remember very well 3 weeks of weekends and after work spent trying to start the threads in the hard brake line just forward of the right side cowl. Good luck with that.

ALL THUMBS UUUPPPPP ! ! ! ! !