Відео

Hi Mike, no this is pre sanding. Using a roller creates little pits and bumps that need to be flattened. I did layer 4 coats of Gel coat and one of Flow coat so there is plenty of scope to flatten it all out. It will never be perfectly flat as its not made from a mould.

Hi Viktor, I designed this one. Would you like a copy of the plans?

I forgot to say, were filming the making of the wooden fins soon. We want our boards to be totally recyclable.

@@ScottS.Netser hi Scott, I work in an old chicken shed. It’s about 60 years old, it’s cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Luckily it doesn’t smell of chickens. It is quirky, but we like it.

@@ScottS.Netser thank you Scott.

@@jefftanaka1448 I used a sandwich of plywood. ua-cam.com/video/2wzWJxKLvJA/v-deo.htmlsi=isXsMp0JOFFPGxUN

@@OrkiesWorkshop yes, I saw that in your previous videos so I know you’re *not* putting the polyester resin right on the styrofoam; I was curious about how you kept from having incidental contact with the resin, whether it be through seepage at the plywood corners or where your foam core is exposed in your through-cuts. I’m enjoying the build by the way.

@@jefftanaka1448 I'm sorry, I probably didn't show it very well, I'll have too make the videos longer. The Ply panels are butt joined, then glued & pinned. I'm applying the resin with a roller so there is little puddling. The doors and windows are undersized slightly. I can't see any points where the polystyrene has been exposed. Maybe taping off sections if there is any chance of puddling would be a good back up? what would you suggest?

@@OrkiesWorkshop I don’t have a solution myself, but yours seems to be the best. I’ve seen other videos of guys using paint as a barrier between styrofoam and polyester resin with limited success. I’ve also watched people use polyurethane foam and polyester resin and of course epoxy over styrofoam. You’re the first I’ve seen who’s been able to combine styrofoam and polyester without failures.

@@jefftanaka1448 I'm trying to build the teardrop without using too many fancy tools, strange materials or difficult processes. With the hope that others use the videos to build their own. Thank you for your questions.

Hi Mike, polyester resin is used for making boat hulls. I have used it for lots of projects, campervan pop top's and one or two boats. It's great with chopped strand matting and Bi-axial cloth. However, I wouldn't recommend anyone using it who hasn't already used epoxy. It can kick quickly and without proper preparation it is not as forgiving as epoxy.

@@ellinganderson5434 thank you for the info. I’ll have to do a short all about the K mark next.

@@azureth354 just don’t tell NASA

I'm really sorry I'm not old enough to understand Inches

Can't be done mate

That's exactly the tip I needed! Thank you. Could you recommend a soldering iron too?

@@audrey3319 thank you

It depends on the thickness of the fiberglass I guess. I'm only using the fiberglass to make a waterproof coating. But yes, if I used some bi-axial cloth, I probably get away without the plywood.

Thank you. I'll have to make another one with all the recommendations.

Thank you, that's very nice to hear. The next video is out on Sunday where we install all the insulation and the outer skin of Plywood.

@@OrkiesWorkshop looking good forward to it.

Thank you

I'll have to make another, with all the great ideas. Thank you

Good point, maybe it should be called a squaredrop. The axle is fixed. We have to use commercial trailers as building bespoke is not allowed in the UK. We have got a great big aluminium storage box to go back on the front though. I’m thinking of getting it powder coated first, what would you recommend?

I guess the only reason to powder coat aluminum is for colour, so it depends on you paint you are using on the trailer itself. Powder coating it black means that box is going to absorb a lot of heat which may affect what you put in it… maybe.

@@Jimmy___ I was going to say to download the app onto a burner phone, but I didn’t want my skeptical side to show. But definitely a good point. Thank you

@@OmairArif Thank you for the top tip. I’ll have to make another one.

@@OrkiesWorkshop thinking about it some more, if you do a V2 it might make more sense to wrap the LED strip in a spiral around the 3D printed core, instead of cutting it into vertical strips. Would save you a bunch of soldering.

I think the same thing. Maybe roughening the inside with sand paper would do the trick.

@@satyrkrieg these are all such great ideas! Thank you.

I second the idea of roughing up the glass with sandpaper. Perhaps both inside and outside?

@@yunusarkan. Thank you for the kind comments. Thank you for the cool idea, I’ll add your idea to the next light I make. Stay cool

@@Kst_101 That’s incredibly kind, thank you. There was me thinking I’m strange and boring.

@@VictorMovlian wow what a lovely thing to say. Thank you

Thank you

Hey, The Green material is a formaldehyde free MDF, it's green because it's classified as moisture resistant. We use it for templates because it's fairly stable, easy to work with and cost effective. We make a lot of templates. What would you use?

Keep watching, it won't be long 🙂

You sir are a legend among us

@@MikeAG333 Hey, thanks for the comment. We use MDF because it is easy to shape, stable and relatively cheap. The green MDF is moisture resistant, and in the UK the RH can get to 70% in the winter. If the mystery customer is my wife she better explain where the money went!

Hi Andy, I can send you a copy, ping me an email. orkiesworkshop@gmail.com

Hey Mike, thanks for watching. I can't help thinking that your roof box design was a market first. We are thinking of making the plans available with the final build. ua-cam.com/channels/zSz93m2d8VDyyrPlgmLOzQ.htmlcommunity?lb=UgkxqfPnF0LavIJO9Nq1OnGt8z4TvczqfDYB

@@OrkiesWorkshop It was. I was badly let down by a manufacturer in South Africa, which is just about the only major market in the world. Ho hum. I wouldn't want the detail plans so as to build the same design ( mine's better! :) ). I'd like to see the drawings so that I know what's what as you're working. I'm an architect. Architects like drawings....

@@MikeAG333 We have the same background. As soon as the plans are available, I'll send you a copy. Do you use computer models?

@@OrkiesWorkshop Thanks. Yes, I use CAD.

Thanks Mike, did you see part two? ua-cam.com/video/LDfkKXHoiAE/v-deo.html

@@OrkiesWorkshop I just watched it. It's nice to see someone re-thinking the construction of teardrops, and not screwing into the end-grain of crappy softwood.