Відео

here ya go www.thingiverse.com/thing:6894228/files

Thank you that was a nice thing to do

Personally I won't buy any more of their planes. I got the Focke-Wulf 190 after this and it had similar issues, though not as many. I looked over the manual for the Baron 58 and it seems to have the same, cheap hardware. If you are an experienced builder and replace the hardware, add a second elevator servo etc, I think the majority of the plane is good. But I now look for stuff from Seagull because they seem to have similar but better quality stuff IMO. And it is worth the extra 50 bucks for so much less of a hassle in building. But I do have to say, as always, Nexa planes fly great once you get them together.

and for those who want, Seagull also makes an ARF of the unmodified Bowers Flybaby as well.

I've never really put pilots in my models just cause they are models. If I was building a plane for a scale competition or something I would put one in, but since everyone knows it is a model, never seemed weird to me.

Well you'd still need some holes for the muffler, needle valve, fueling etc. But I'm okay since nitros run much better sideways vs inverted and nothing wrong with seeing that beautiful Saito sticking out IMO.

DLE 40CC twin gasser. Flies great on it, tons of power.

@TheDornado Thanks Friend. I have a Stinger Giant in excellent condition and with your recomendations for an engine to use in it. As soon as I put the engine in and fly, I'll send you the video. Good Flights

@@spgtgrina looking forward to seeing that vid

Good question Blaser. The cowl is a complex shape usually molded out of fiberglass. It is a difficult part to make both strong but also with complex shapes, like the cylinder heads and exhaust pipes etc. So if a company takes the time to do multiple layers of fiberglass to make a good, thick cowl with those complex shapes and a good quality paint job you can usually assume the rest of the model is done well.

What would you call it? I dedicated a room in my basement, over 400 square feet of space, set up multiple work benches, tools, cabinets and storage and completely re-did the lighting all for building and fixing RC and other projects. Sounds like a "Workshop" to me.

The wing loading is so light, I really haven't missed them at all.

@@TheDornado it's not about wing loading necessarily. It's more about creating drag with the benefit of added lift.

@@Ramztothaz right, but what I'm telling you is that this plane lands at walking pace, as slow as a trainer, without flaps. So adding them would only add weight and lower your roll rate. Do you think 3D planes need flaps as well? no, because of their very low wing loading, just like this plane. I agree that many planes benefit from flaps, but this particular one, I think they made the right choice by doing full span ailerons instead.

@@TheDornado I don't doubt that the wing loading is low enough that flaps are not needed however flaps would allow you expand the flight envelope. Your roll rate would not decrease if you mixed your flaps to your ailerons. Nobody would notice an extra 4 or 5 oz for the flap servos and linkages. My 10cc Ultra Stick, 10cc Valiant and Night Timber all have a light enough wing loading that they don't need flaps....but it really helps if you end up deadstick with a tailwind....or if you are making an approach over tall trees....or you want to add a elevator to flap mix to get higher angles of attack without the wing stalling....or you have a very short runway.....etc. My Ultra Stick has regular flaps, elevator to flap mix, crow mixing and aileron to flap mixing that gives you full available roll authority. None of it is needed but full throttle straight down and then pull the power off and pull the crow to a landing is entertaining to say the least.

new vids coming soon, including my first turbine!

It is still on their website so I think they still sell it. The kits take a few months since they are done in order and each one done custom, so you have to be patient, but the best laser kit I have ever gotten. carolinacustomkits.com/shop/ols/products/giant-stinger

sure, my CG ended up at 110mm back from the leading edge. That's 3mm behind what the manual says(107), but it flies great for me right there. Doesn't feel touchy at all.

The FS aircraft is a great flying airplane. Matter of fact, all the short wing Pipers are great. That's why they are so popular today!!

Motion has a set listed with the plane that drop right in. You have to attach the struts but they work perfect. Link www.motionrc.com/products/nexa-electronic-retract-set-with-struts-type-a-nxa6015-012

Hope you post a vid or some pics!

Nice! It flies amazing!

That's heck of a large plane. And yes larger planes fly better. Years ago I had a 85 inch ws Tri Pacer powered by a 45 cc no name Chinese motor. Had to admit it worked well and gave the plane realistic and decent aerobatic flight characteristics.

@@covercalls88 Thanks

look I fixed my @ name:)

@@TheDornado LMAO

Tough question, both are great airplanes and normally I would probably go for the PT 19 cause it is wood vs foam for the T-28, but in this case if I could only have one it would be the T-28. I really like the extra scale details, lights etc but also and more importantly the versatility in the way it flies. The envelope on this plane is just amazing. You can just cruise around and do a nice scale flight or really kick it and fly nice and sporty. And it is just so solid in the air.

@@TheDornado thanks man. Appreciate it !

It is definitely not a 'slow' flyer but not a speed demon either. These flights were on 6S, but I have since switched to 4S. It flies a touch slower but I just like the way it flies on 4S better. It is pricey but not a bad price for an all wood plane. It should fly very similar to your T-28, just a bit less sporty (if you fly on 4S). But overall it is a fantastic everyday plane. I have a smile on my face every time I fly it.

it's really their value per dollar that I have issue with. They use cheap hardware and have things like the wonky seat and cheap plastic fairings, yet still charge a premium price.

You've got to be kidding?

I will never buy a NEXA product again. And I will be discouraged from buying from Motion RC because of their dishonesty of NOT posting negative feedback. Losing their credibility.

you are correct, I added 10% expo between flights and it also needed 1 ounce of lead cause it was just a bit tail heavy.

Overall this covering is good, but it has a couple flaws. It is much heavier and thicker than normal covering, which is not a big deal. But the two big issues are the adhesive is NOT heat activated like normal covering. As soon as you take it off the backing, the glue is crazy sticky. And unlike normal covering it is always sticky, even when cool. The adhesive also leaves a nasty residue on the wood if you ever want to recover the plane. But the biggest issue is it is not meant to shrink. Which is why they use it on planes like this with heavy graphic schemes. The design stays exactly the same with no worry of shrinking with heat. The problem is once your plane sits in the sun or in your car you get wrinkles, that you can't shrink out with a heat gun or iron, like you do with normal covering. Usually the covering shrinks back when it cools but eventually you will have permanent wrinkles or loose covering.

Ok. Thanks for your explanation. I really like the plane but now I’m having second thoughts.

@@jeffreyglasser9330 overall I think it is a good plane once you get past a few of the "cheapness" issues. And most importantly, it flies great!

Thanks. I appreciate all your advice.

Motor is an Aerodrive SK3 4250 410KV from HobbyKing. ESC is a 65 amp ZTW Mantis from Motion. Prop is a Master AIrscrew 14x9x3. I am flying on a 3700 MaH 6-cell which puts the plane just over 8 lbs flight ready and I set my timer to 6 minutes and have plenty left on the battery after landing.

Thank you. It seems to fly very well with that set up.