Відео

Definitely. The battery was known good before deciding to shoot the video.

Hopefully it solves the problem for you.

Ups I meant to type tarded but I typed it as americun, my bad*

I do not and unfortunately I don’t have the string trimmer anymore to get one created.

Thanks very much for responding, no problem at all.

No I didn’t. The magnetic adjuster comes off and the valve is behind it. They may charge 6 hrs but it’ll only take them 30 mins absolute max.

It’s the same process but it’s a different size by like a millimeter.

Wow! I heard a metal tapping sound at idle and it was pretty much go away under load like you’re experiencing, but it sounds different than pre ignition. The sound was way worse on deceleration while remaining in gear just letting the car slow down. Yeah VW’s have to have the oil topped off and in good condition. I change mine every 5000 miles and make sure the oil meets the spec. My GTI (which I’m about to sell) is VW 502.00, the Golf R 504.00 and the Tiguan is 508.00. All changed at 5000 miles. I just have had enough issues that it’s way less to change the oil than it is to replace cam shafts.

haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/how-sort-p0011-fault-code#

I am sooo not qualified to answer your question.

I don’t understand the question. I’ll also say I’m not a mechanic just a do it yourself person.

I replaced the front valve and magnetic adjusters. If you’re having the same issues I’m sure by now the issue is resolved, but if it isn’t those items are what fixed my problem.

Hi pal you get your issue sorted I’m getting fuel Vapor smell in my car. Getting a knocking noise when I accelerate. But not all the time.

@@magicman073 I had the adjuster changed but the issue still remains, I think it’s to do with the timing side of things as I’ve been told. What issue are you having?

I’ve got an oil leak somewhere right hand side of the engine. Only owned a month or 2 now. Just had it serviced hoping they could find the issues but couldn’t so re booked in for further investigations. But engine needs a clean to get rid of the oil. The knocking started about a week ago. Under acceleration it’s a bit intermittent but getting more to i can pretty much create it most times to record. Which I’ve managed to get a good few clips. I can smell that vapour & maybe loss of power think changing the camshaft magnets sensors is what I might get done first. I’ve watched so many videos and read forums. Different answers and still unknowns.

ua-cam.com/video/5jnjIRvRyJc/v-deo.htmlsi=4g_dn2lA24ne1H-m

I’m no mechanic, but I’d say definitely not. Replace camshaft adjuster and valve. They’re both pretty cheap parts that you could do yourself most likely.

Did you keep using it with the cable disconnected?

Also any tips on getting the exhaust cam magnet off without struggling too much?

The magnet comes off easily. Just put a small flat head screw driver behind the edge after you have the 3 bolts out. I can’t remember the version, maybe A

​@aallien I'm pretty sure The A and H revisions are different sizes?

Yes but if the magnet is bad it can also cause the problem which is why it’s a good idea to start with unplugging the magnet to see if the noise changes for the better or worse. For mine, replacing the magnet stopped one of the noises completely at idle and while cruising but when decelerating the noise from the camshaft smacking whatever inside was terrible. Ultimately replacing the valve fixed the issue. I’d say do both. The parts are fair cheap in the grand scheme of things.

Yeah that would've been convenient. I couldn't use it so I chunked it.

Yes I was able to get the valve out and put the old one back in. I have a video explaining how I did it if you want those details. It's riveting....it isn't.

Maybe an intake carbon cleaning procedure might help

I agree with the previous comment. Rough idle can also be caused carbon build up. I will say that we haven’t done carbon cleaning even though I know it needs it. A quick way to tell if it’s the valve or magnet is to unplug one magnet at a time and see the noise goes away. Don’t let this go without being checked. My assumption is that the noise is the camshaft hitting something because it’s being adjusted incorrectly by the valve or magnet.

Thanks for the help guys I tried unplugging the magnets didn’t change in fact it’s now much worse sounds like top end tapping I’ve booked it in to be looked at unfortunately I have over a weeks wait with no car and all sorts going through my head on how much it will cost 😭

@@motobikesmiler yeah I’m curious what someone charges to do this and what they say the issue is. I don’t have anyone local I trust to work on my car. I’d have to drive about 3hrs to get someone to do the job.

It is difficult to diagnose precisely without investigation. If something is throwing off timing or fuel injection that can create the stumbling you describe. Could be CAM POS Sensors, a faulty Purge Valve, your Manifold MAP Sensor (just to name a few). Often, if you have a vacuum leak through the Purge Valve the excess fuel vapor doesn't get burnt off and runs through the plenum fouling the MAP. Additionally, that can create oil splash confusing the Cam Pos Sensors or damaging them as well. I would remove and check the MAP sensor and look for any signs of fuel or oil. Next, listen for an air leak sound nearest Cyl #1 while the car is at idle / If there is an apparent "air sound", then you know the Purge Valve is leaking. Also, if you Do Not hear the sound, feel the rubber hose - you should feel "pulsing" - if you don't feel any pulsing, then the Purge Valve is stuck closed. Lastly, you can disconnect and remove the Cam Pos Sensors and wipe them off (if there is any oil present) and reconnect. You would want to check with an OBD reader for: Cam Intake and Exhaust (specified and actual). If the % do not match up to each other OR are going extremely Up and Down on either - then, the Cam Sensor of whichever displays what I mentioned is faulty. Back to the Cam Magnets: If you wanted to check the magnets and spool valves, you can remove the magnets and shake them. If they do not rattle, then those are faulty. Then, look at the CENTER piece of the spool valves and if those center points are protruded and not flush, then for sure the spool valve(s) are faulty. That's the easiest way to check. Plus, you will have excess oil when you remove the magnets. Just ensure you get the correct BOLTS x 6 and replace the inner O-Rings (if you are doing BOTH Magnets) to affix the new ones back in. The seal is replaced when removing the entire Timing Cover. You could have some serious Carbon buildup as well, but like I mentioned - it is difficult to diagnose. Hopefully this provides you with information that you may or may have not discovered since you posted this.

Yes I did, but I don’t recall what they were. I do know that after I replaced the bad valve and magnet and cleared all codes those codes didn’t return.

Oil presure ?

Usually ecu errors around vvt not working properly would be camshaft advance or retard set points not being reached. Wouldn't cause an oil pressure issue but the system relies on oil pressure to work.

The magnets are super easy to install and it did change the noise, but not eliminate it. I had to replace the valve as well to fix the problem. I understand some replace the magnet and that solves the problem for them. My car has over 100k miles so I had to replace both parts.

@@aallien yeah i have a 2017 mk7 and im at 91k, i feel i might as well replace both magnets and the valve all at once, thanks for responding!!

Definitely get the model number off both valves before ordering. I have a brand new one I can’t return because it was technically installed.

@@aallien yeah thats a big thing i am worried about before ordering i just need the time to get under there and find the model number for them

where did you find the valves? i cannot find 06k only 06h

I just reread your comment and realized you said can magnets not valves. I’m reasonably sure the magnets are the same. They look identical, but I haven’t read the model numbers.

Unfortunately those are newish cams. They’ve only been installed about 2 years.

100%%%%

There were no seals on the old or new magnets or cam adjuster valves that remember. It's plastic against plastic on the magnet and fits snugly. I recommend replacing the bolts when you take the magnet off unless you've replaced them with steel bolts those aluminum bolts snap so easily. I just got some M6-1.0 by 14mm from Home Depot.

@@aallien just barely snapped one and had slowly back it out 😅

Ryan Elliff I believe WHT007212B is the o-ring you are looking for but you might want to double check compatibility

I have same sweating oily you replaced them and is gone ?

I used a magnet and pulled it out, my wife's recommendation and it worked. It just doesn't fit. It's the wrong part.

This issue was that it was just spinning so it wouldn’t thread in or out. After stepping back and examining my life choices and eat some lunch, my wife recommended I get a strong magnet to pull it out and that worked first try. Since the old one worked I just reinstalled the old one (dropping all sorts of things down into the belly pan in the process).

@@aallien Yeah, sounds like the new one is the smaller revision and doesn't match the cam.

No unfortunately. It’s long gone. I gave the batteries to someone who had tools they would fit and chunked the rest.

@@aallien ... Ah ok. I suppose the motor burned & opened some windings. I think what you could have tried was nudge the motor by spinning the gear attached to it & see if you spotted any slight movement. I've opened up the cylindrical housings on motors before & it can be a delicate process. Putting your nose close to the motor is also good for smelling any burns as a possible symptom.

That’s horrible! Sorry to hear that.

Unfortunately I don't have any recommendations other than replacing it. I googled your issue and seems to be common and everyone replace it. You may find one cheaper at a pawn shop. If you go cordless, don't buy one of these in the video hahaha!

Thank you for your time

That's amazing!

I’m glad to hear you found the video helpful.

I’m glad to hear you found the video helpful.

Can we buy a motor assembly of black decker GL2545

Mine is long since gone, but that's what I was wondering.

I actually didn’t go any further with the tear down. I should’ve contact black & decker for a replacement honestly, just didn’t think about it.

T Cantrell Make us a video. I'd subscribe.

I didn't know that at the time. I probably wouldn't have messed with it anyway. By the time I made this video I'd already placed it with a Stihl 2 cycle, which is still working fantastically.

Good to know for the future. I chunked this trimmer immediately after this video was created though.