Pulp Friction Climbing
Pulp Friction Climbing
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Off-route In Morocco : Trad Climbing on Ksar Rock
Was meant to be a classic steady HS 4b, turned into an accidental adventure. It is meant to be adventure trad after all......
Might try and find an independent line next trip, there was a nice offwidth/chimney to the right of Aerobat pitch 2 that could potentially link up with, and the lower crack looked like it would be alright with a bit of gardening...
#climbing
#tradclimbing
#adventuretrad
#mountaineering
#tafraout
#climbtafraout
Переглядів: 109

Відео

Morocco Trad Climbing : El Hachame - HVS 5b - Imane Tor
Переглядів 3219 годин тому
Making this classic corner crack trad line at Imane Tor just outside Tafraout in Morocco, ten times harder than it needed to be! A beautiful sustained line, and probably quite enjoyable if you don't get layback tunnel vision 😅 00:00 - Intro 01:00 - Initial gear 03:00 - On route 16:24 - Top out #climbing #climbtafraout #tradclimbing #crackclimbing
The Louisiana Rib - VS 4c - Stanage Popular
Переглядів 85821 день тому
An interesting little VS at Stanage, with a committing move above some decent gear, and fairly straightforward climbing either side. #climbing #gritstone #trad
Amazon Crack - S 4a - Stanage Popular
Переглядів 1 тис.21 день тому
Nice easy romp, or infamous sandbag? I've seen more than a few people having a mare on the start of this, and it nearly spat me off (again)! Nice steady climbing afterwards, but I think the first move is worth at least 4b. #gritstone #climbing #ukclimbing 00:00 - Intro 00:45 - First piece 01:45 - Nearly off! 02:00 - Steady climbing 02:50 - Gear 03:23 - Climbing 06:10 - Topout
BAW's Crawl - HVS 5a - Stanage Popular
Переглядів 1,2 тис.28 днів тому
Classic gritstone weirdness last weekend, on a beautiful crisp autumnal day out with the Oread MC. Managed to entangle myself in the rope in the crux section for added shenanigans! A nice light-hearted climb after some serious soloing the day before 😎 #climbing #ukclimbing #gritstone #grit #trad #tradisrad 00:00 - Intro 00:30 - 02:30 - Insertion 02:30 - 03:20 - Disentangling 03:20 - 04:30 - Gea...
Peak Grit : Motorcade - E1 5a - Solo - Froggatt
Переглядів 1,2 тис.Місяць тому
A glorious inversion and some solo slab climbing at Froggatt this morning. Despite the apparently sunny weather, it was a bit dewy and with some cloud rolling in and conditions weren't quite as good as I was hoping, the top pockets in particular were a little greasy, so called it a day after this one. #climbing #gritstone #outdoorclimbing #trad #soloing #freesolo 00:00 - Intro 00:15 - Route ove...
Sunset Slab - HVS 4b - Froggatt
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Місяць тому
The weirdly, but rightly, HVS 4b gritstone classic line of this area at Froggatt. I was a bit blasé about it, only 4b and all, but the gear and rope is basically useless for the top section, you are soloing. Have to get your head switched on and not necessarily hop on this for a 'warmup' 😅 Memorable for sure, although there are much better lines on the edge.... #climbing #gritstone #soloing #tr...
Sundowner - E2 5a - Solo - Froggatt
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Місяць тому
Sundowner - E2 5a - Solo - Froggatt
Peak Grit : Strapiombante - E1 5b - Froggatt
Переглядів 5 тис.Місяць тому
Peak Grit : Strapiombante - E1 5b - Froggatt
Shaftesbury Avenue- HVS 5b - Millstone
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Місяць тому
Shaftesbury Avenue- HVS 5b - Millstone
Great North Road - HVS 5a - Millstone
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Місяць тому
Great North Road - HVS 5a - Millstone
Great Portland Street - HVS 5b - Millstone
Переглядів 378Місяць тому
Great Portland Street - HVS 5b - Millstone
18th Dynasty - f6A - The New Kingdom - Farley Woods
Переглядів 252 місяці тому
18th Dynasty - f6A - The New Kingdom - Farley Woods
REVIEW - Edelrid Pinch
Переглядів 2,5 тис.2 місяці тому
REVIEW - Edelrid Pinch
The Scarab - f6B - Valley Of The Kings - Farley Woods
Переглядів 512 місяці тому
The Scarab - f6B - Valley Of The Kings - Farley Woods
Sly Stallone - f6B+ - Baldstones
Переглядів 842 місяці тому
Sly Stallone - f6B - Baldstones
Baby Elephant Walk - f6B - Baldstones
Переглядів 952 місяці тому
Baby Elephant Walk - f6B - Baldstones
Hammy - f6A - Newstones
Переглядів 1202 місяці тому
Hammy - f6A - Newstones
The Meltdown - f7A - Nuda's Tartan - Alport
Переглядів 663 місяці тому
The Meltdown - f7A - Nuda's Tartan - Alport
Boss Of The Plains - f7A - The P - Matlock
Переглядів 483 місяці тому
Boss Of The Plains - f7A - The P - Matlock
Take Note - f6C+ - Willersley
Переглядів 333 місяці тому
Take Note - f6C - Willersley
Altar Crack - VS 4v - Rivelin
Переглядів 2213 місяці тому
Altar Crack - VS 4v - Rivelin
Roof Route - HVS 5b - Rivelin
Переглядів 743 місяці тому
Roof Route - HVS 5b - Rivelin
The Green Traverse - f7A - Stanage Plantation
Переглядів 724 місяці тому
The Green Traverse - f7A - Stanage Plantation
Dwindling Enthusiasm (Sit) - f6A+ - The P - Matlock
Переглядів 284 місяці тому
Dwindling Enthusiasm (Sit) - f6A - The P - Matlock
The Old Man And The P - f6A - The P - Matlock
Переглядів 314 місяці тому
The Old Man And The P - f6A - The P - Matlock
Hunting For Witches - f7A+ - The P - Matlock
Переглядів 1244 місяці тому
Hunting For Witches - f7A - The P - Matlock
INdepenDANCE (Stand) - f6A - The P
Переглядів 675 місяців тому
INdepenDANCE (Stand) - f6A - The P
Magic Arrows (Sit) - f6A - The P
Переглядів 155 місяців тому
Magic Arrows (Sit) - f6A - The P
REDRUM - f6B+ - Matlock - Crag S
Переглядів 235 місяців тому
REDRUM - f6B - Matlock - Crag S

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @courier3320
    @courier3320 12 годин тому

    Cave divers be like " as long as i exhale"

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones День тому

    Loving the long format, though it took till about 15 mins in before I could relax and sip on my coffee 😅 Was glad when the train stopper nuts came off the harness. HS, this seems not. Come spring, some long format on wildcat is in order 👍 Signed Mr Safety

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing День тому

      I'm pretty sure the first half was pitch 1 of Aerobat which is meant to go at 5a....although I think the 5a move was the step up left from where I put the blue cam, but I was still looking for a 4b line so wandered off right to that hand crack. Was a bit exciting to start with, got stressed mainly because I was expecting a nice easy day out 🤣

  • @PulpFrictionClimbing
    @PulpFrictionClimbing День тому

    Anyone stayed at the guest house? Would be nice to spend a couple of nights in the valley next trip....

  • @bonefishboards
    @bonefishboards День тому

    Take your harness off, man. And no crack gloves.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing День тому

      Harness is just to attach the chalk bag to, and crack gloves are just habit on grit, obviously completely pointless on this route but I just wear em all day.

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones 3 дні тому

    Splittttter 🤌

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones 3 дні тому

    Mint fight man 💪 The smear layback in the middle looked tough.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 3 дні тому

      @@edanjones it would have been fine if I'd remembered to stop laybacking and use the footholds on the left face after it 🤦

  •  3 дні тому

    Looks ace!

  • @richardunderwood5265
    @richardunderwood5265 3 дні тому

    That looked thin as fook up at the crux - not done that route. Great solo man, ball of steel.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 2 дні тому

      Committing move to get established on the top slab definitely. Easy finish after, but you deifnitely do not want to come off!

  • @PulpFrictionClimbing
    @PulpFrictionClimbing 4 дні тому

    Get your punter bingo cards ready! Fluffed clips ✅ Way too much gear ✅ Unnecessary laybacks ✅ Sim's siezed up purple Dragonfly ✅ Huffing and cursing ✅

  • @richardunderwood5265
    @richardunderwood5265 4 дні тому

    Wow! You made a meal of that 🫢🤣

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 3 дні тому

      Making mid-grade routes look hard is kinda my thing 😅

    • @richardunderwood5265
      @richardunderwood5265 3 дні тому

      @PulpFrictionClimbing I was only pulling your leg BTW, please don't take it the wrong way. It was fantastic watching you climb that route, brought back so many happy memories for me; a time when I had nothing....yet was free as a bird. There's a few kids going up about the Peak and for you and colleagues (maybe) I can't thank you enough.

  •  8 днів тому

    Crack head

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones 8 днів тому

    So strong, epic climbing 💪

  • @simasjermosenka6870
    @simasjermosenka6870 8 днів тому

    Breathe ... Breathe.... Breathe.. 😅

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones 13 днів тому

    Enjoy the trip guys 🤙

  • @s13hgp
    @s13hgp 14 днів тому

    Solo surely means unaided, chalk (glue) is an aid. Just saying ;)

  • @richiecooke69
    @richiecooke69 15 днів тому

    More like VS 4b and your first gear was pointless. Nice vid though

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 14 днів тому

      Pointless indeed, that's why I didn't bother with a rope for Sundowner next to it!

  • @yawningdog9894
    @yawningdog9894 18 днів тому

    1:20 do you understand that this peice does nothing and your on a ledge this is a complete waste of time 😑

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 18 днів тому

      Absolutely correct! Definitely a comfort piece rather than any real use

  • @lewproffitt
    @lewproffitt 19 днів тому

    Seconded my wife up this a couple of weeks ago, what a classic! Nice moves up that arete

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 18 днів тому

      Yep it's a nice VS, very obvious crux with some steadier climbing either side. I think I did the HVS line that finishes up the arete as well years ago, this felt familiar, but I've definitely not climbing this line before...

  • @duncanbeard9460
    @duncanbeard9460 19 днів тому

    Excellent stuff. I'm pretty sure I'll never have the balls to solo E1. It doesn't look easy to protect this climb, I guess that's why it's not VS/HVS.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 18 днів тому

      There is a perfect black totem placement in the big dish, which would hopefully stop you taking the big tumble, but you'd still have a pretty bad time, best to climb it like you're soloing even with a rope! It would be VS with gear for sure, not a particularly stiff one either, the moves are all straightforward (despite my up and downing!)

  • @duncanbeard9460
    @duncanbeard9460 19 днів тому

    Nice one! I was wondering how you'd get to the top out as the high foothold was not visible until you used it.

  • @chriswiles8617
    @chriswiles8617 19 днів тому

    Poor belaying and rope organisation in my MHO especially at the beginning.

    • @garysmith7550
      @garysmith7550 17 днів тому

      Massively so. The belayer was to far away and way to much slack. Couldn’t watch it

    • @williamfield2052
      @williamfield2052 14 днів тому

      Came to find this comment, shocking amount of slack payed out numerous times, looks like he doesn't want to be there. Wouldn't be belaying me!

    • @fuzzybee3788
      @fuzzybee3788 2 дні тому

      @@garysmith7550 Not the best belaying ever, but this is primarily on the climber for getting their leg the wrong side of the rope. Easy mistake to make though

  • @mikeskiuk
    @mikeskiuk 20 днів тому

    I’ve seen people place about ten more pieces of gear. And obviously fail. It sums up gritstone so well! Short, punchy and amazing. Lovely little film.

  • @diegomonaci5425
    @diegomonaci5425 20 днів тому

    Hi, really cool video like always, the rock seems superb, I really want to travel in UK for climbing! Keep goign, i'm always waiting a video of yours. Stay safe and have fun

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 20 днів тому

      @@diegomonaci5425 appreciate it, thanks! The grit is unique for sure. Not sure when I'll be able to share more as the autumn weather has been pretty bad the last few weeks.

  • @lewproffitt
    @lewproffitt 21 день тому

    Loved the intro shots, brilliant route as well got to do it again some time

  • @ianmorris76
    @ianmorris76 23 дні тому

    I love these videos. Thanks for posting them.

  • @simasjermosenka6870
    @simasjermosenka6870 23 дні тому

    It's so therapeutic to watch trad gear being placed... You should make a video compilation of gear placements 😎

  • @duncanbeard9460
    @duncanbeard9460 23 дні тому

    Thanks for filming this one. I was encouraged to lead this on a day when I told the people I was with that I didn't want to lead harder than HS. I was glad I did as I really enjoyed it. It looks steep but the friction is so good the moves are pretty easy when you commit. I think the cam at the rhs of the traverse didn't need so much extension. Btw, I always rack my friends with 2/3rds of a quickdraw attached. 90% of the time a short extender is what is needed, saves time (& a crab per cam) if it's already on it.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 22 дні тому

      Thanks! It's pretty steady at VS yep, and has bomber gear. I should have extended the left-hand cam in the break really, I probably could have just leaned across and added a draw looking back at it. It's quite good being able to go back and look at climbs for my own benefit and see where I might have done things differently!

  • @PulpFrictionClimbing
    @PulpFrictionClimbing 23 дні тому

    More helmet cam footage than usual on this one, as I made such a mess of the main camera 😓 Probably last video for a few weeks sadly!

  • @paulmitchell5349
    @paulmitchell5349 23 дні тому

    Possibly an easier solo than the wide crack just right.

  • @paulmitchell5349
    @paulmitchell5349 23 дні тому

    Nice aggressive mantel youth.

  • @natalieminnis
    @natalieminnis 24 дні тому

    That looked like a great climb. I would love to second it.

  • @mikeskiuk
    @mikeskiuk 24 дні тому

    Get your leg around the rope!

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 24 дні тому

      A valid point! In this instance I'd be in a crumpled heap on the ground before the rope went tight if I came off, so I was more concerned about making sure the rope wasn't going to get in the way of my feet while making the unprotected crux moves.

  • @davidrobinson7684
    @davidrobinson7684 26 днів тому

    Quite a punchy start over the overhang. A lot of the Stanage popular classics have become extremely polished especially on the first few footholds.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 22 дні тому

      For sure, it's not quite as glassy as Crack and Corner, but not far off!

  • @simasjermosenka6870
    @simasjermosenka6870 26 днів тому

    That's a very nice Severe route! 😎

  • @duncanbeard9460
    @duncanbeard9460 26 днів тому

    Nice vid. So far I'm max VS lead (on a good day) but I reckon I can do that one. I thought the headwall would be harder and certainly didn't expect the luxury topout gear placement!

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 26 днів тому

      It's definitely a bit of a softie HVS, you even get to have a nice lie down part way 😄 The face is pretty straightforward, and gear for the topout is as you say a bit of luxury for the grit!

  • @hollytreecook
    @hollytreecook 26 днів тому

    who climbs in gloves in UK. This is not a big wall

    • @edanjones
      @edanjones 26 днів тому

      I wear mine all the time on the grit. Especially when I’m eating my lunch 👍

    • @daveblack2602
      @daveblack2602 20 днів тому

      They're crack gloves. He uses them in the break around 50s in.

  • @user-el4yt7xm3s
    @user-el4yt7xm3s 27 днів тому

    Crack gloves......er ,no.

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 27 днів тому

      Team Crack Glove here I'm afraid. I also wear socks while bouldering so there's obviously something wrong with me 😄

    • @edanjones
      @edanjones 26 днів тому

      Crack Gloves and Gritstone go hand in hand in my book. I also wear them to eat my lunch 😆

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones 27 днів тому

    Lovely time lapse at the beginning 🤌 Good recovery on that foot pop too

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing 26 днів тому

      Thanks! Watch out for that first move, the foothold is like glass!

  • @simasjermosenka6870
    @simasjermosenka6870 28 днів тому

    Climbing with ropes? Witchcraft! 🤣

  • @esarosik
    @esarosik 29 днів тому

    love these vids... really captures a Gritstone experience! keep em coming!

  • @PulpFrictionClimbing
    @PulpFrictionClimbing 29 днів тому

    Really happy with this one, think my videography, editing and grading is coming along nicely. Let me know what you think!

  • @stevegulseren1078
    @stevegulseren1078 Місяць тому

    That rockover onto the upper slab is certainly trouser filling. I think E2 is fair, the crux is to high to fluff, from memory, the gear is much lower down

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      The gear is pretty useless, even with your belayer running you'd probably still hit the deck. Motorcade (the E1 on Tody's) has a decent small cam slot that would make it a painful tumble rather than a full splat ground fall like this one, so I think E2 is fair with that in mind.

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones Місяць тому

    I’ve got to get on this route, the campus looks epic 💪

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      This will be right up your street mate, campus moves and all the cracks you can stuff with gear 😅

  • @WillL0
    @WillL0 Місяць тому

    What nuts are you using?

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      They're @WildCountryClimbing Superlight Offset Rocks. I tend to only use offsets these days, these and a set of the DMM alloys.

    • @WillL0
      @WillL0 Місяць тому

      Thanks :) @

  • @simasjermosenka6870
    @simasjermosenka6870 Місяць тому

    That pose at the end! Love it! 🤣

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      I can't stop it, soon as I top out I just instinctively pull this Alan Partridge pose.....every time 😅

    • @simasjermosenka6870
      @simasjermosenka6870 Місяць тому

      @@PulpFrictionClimbing if you can't beat them, join them! Make it your signature video ending pose! Own it like a boss, Alan Partridge boss 😎

  • @andersfugelli2764
    @andersfugelli2764 Місяць тому

    Great to see this classic climb! I think my first lead climb was Sunset Crack to the right, followed by seconding on Sunset Slab - nostalgic trip back to 1990 or so!

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      Excellent, memorable routes for sure. My first lead was a completely forgettable zero star Vdiff at Stanage, but my second was Manchester Buttress which made up for it!

  • @diegomonaci5425
    @diegomonaci5425 Місяць тому

    Hi, i really like your video, this mix of POV and gritstone is brilliant. Keep going!

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      Thanks, appreciate it 😊 Just packing my gear for a day out on the grit tomorrow!

  • @ChrisMartin1287
    @ChrisMartin1287 Місяць тому

    What harness are you using? The color is great

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      It's an Arcteryx AR395A, one of the older colourways called 'Serene'

  • @edanjones
    @edanjones Місяць тому

    Gosh, doesn’t the guy in orange sew it up 😅 Another great video man. I really liked the move from the pockets, great positions!

    • @largeformatlandscape
      @largeformatlandscape Місяць тому

      You learn to place gear by placing gear..

    • @edanjones
      @edanjones Місяць тому

      @@largeformatlandscape 100% agree, as the dude in orange is also me 👍

    • @largeformatlandscape
      @largeformatlandscape Місяць тому

      @@edanjones Ha!! I'm on your page :-)

    • @PulpFrictionClimbing
      @PulpFrictionClimbing Місяць тому

      @@edanjones between your safety first gear placements, and my penchant for runout slabs, we've got the bases covered 😅

    • @edanjones
      @edanjones Місяць тому

      @@PulpFrictionClimbing You’re damn right 👊