Відео

We bought the wire from a local commercial framing company that were willing to sell it to us. I think I have also seen it on amazon.

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The pizza oven works great! For pizza I get the oven up to temperature (hot enough to burn the soot off the dome so it looks white), then I spread the hot coals over the bricks on the floor for a while to even out the floor temperature. Once the floor is hot enough ( >=600°F) I then move the coals to the side and clean the floor so it is ready for cooking. When I put the pizzas in I watch the bottom until they are cooked and then I raise them on my pizza peel into the higher heat near the top of the dome to cook the top of the pizza. I learned that technique by watching Massimo’s UA-cam videos. The temperature in the dome is much hotter near the top so I can control how I cook the tops of the pizza and I can compensate for how many topping are on the pizza. I am working on videos of how I made the two doors for the oven and how I made my pizza oven tools using a forge and lathe. I didn’t record how I made my rotisserie for the pizza oven but I will show it in one of the videos to give some idea of how it was made. The rotisserie cooks to perfection! We have also made bread, buns, and focaccia bread in the oven and they were delicious. I hope to have these other videos posted soon, and then I can show how I fire up the oven and demonstrate methods that I use for cooking. I have a number of videos I have to put together covering different topics like working with resin, how I sharpen my lathe tools, another video on how and why I make time capsules, maybe more on making picture frames, and how I do wood turning. I still have to rebuild our website. Retirement means more options to keep busy and have fun! .

@@liz-artcreations6633 Thank you. Very helpful and I look forward to your new videos.

Glad you liked it. I will be redoing the opening scene now that I have finished making the internal and external pizza oven doors along with my pizza oven tools. I recorded how I made the the doors and how I forged my pizza oven tools. I am in the process of editing them so I hope to get them posted this month. I also made a rotisserie for the oven which cooks to perfection.

I have watched videos where people have made their own refractory cement using vermiculite or perlite. I believe vermiculite is supposed to withstand temperatures up to 1100°C and I think perlite is a little higher at around 1150°C. The reason I went with the commercial inner layer was for abrasion resistance. Of the two commercial refractory cements that I used the KS4V was rated to 2300°F and had poorer abrasion resistance than the other commercial brand that was rated to 2800°F ( I can’t think of the brand name off the top of my head. I believe I put the brand name in the video). I didn’t know if the home made refractory would have good abrasion resistance which is why my inner liner was done with commercial cement. So far I have had no issues and I have pinned the temperature of my laser thermometer which Max’s out at 1000°F. I made an internal and external door for the oven and I insulated the internal door with vermiculite. I recently finished recording how I made them along with how I forged my pizza oven tools, but I still have to edit the videos and upload them. I hope this helps.

The reason I made my own refractory was to add thermal mass so my oven would retain heat longer and to save money (commercial refractory cement was more expensive). Keep in mind that the thicker the refractory cement the longer it takes to heat the oven and the more wood you need to heat it. Commercial ovens use thicker refractory cement because they are running consistently, where I use my oven occasionally so I don’t want to use too much wood to get it up to temperature.

We went to a local picture frame company and asked if we could buy the wire they used. They were kind enough to let us buy a box. My wife has painted hundreds of paintings so buying in bulk was worth it. The wire isn’t cheap but you get what you pay for. I believe the technical name is “coated picture frame wire” and I was able to find it doing a search online or on Amazon. It comes in different grades which I believe is rated to the strength of the wire to support specific weights. I believe our wire is rated for 30lbs. I am not sure what that grade would be. As for the tool I do not know what it is called. I bought it about 40 years ago from Princess Auto.

@@liz-artcreations6633 Thanks for responding I was able to find the wire on Amazon. As for the tool, if my father was still alive he would probably know what the name of it is. I inherited all of his old tools & a lot of them come in handy now & then. I think what I might do is stop by either an Ace Hardware or a friend's vintage auto repair shop & see if they can tell me what it is. Thanks for your help!

Thank you! I hope to have videos out this month on how I made the doors and how I forged the pizza oven tools. Now that the doors are finished I will be updating this video as well.

Glad you liked it. For a couple of seniors we do keep busy. 😊

Thanks. I wanted to encourage people that considered doing this to do it as safely as possible. It is very dangerous if you do not know what you are doing.

You are welcome. Enjoy your art!

Not wrong... just differently. 😊

My answer really will not help you. I have to expose my film for 9 minutes. The reason is that my UV bulbs are 30 years old. The bulbs get weak as they age so they take more time. Also bulbs are rated for different intensities (wattage) which also affects the time. You need to try experimenting with your setup to figure out what works for you. Good luck.

Thanks. I am not very “entertaining” but I try to share methods that work for me. Sometimes I am probably too detailed which makes my videos longer than most people want to watch. My wood fired pizza oven build definitely falls into that category. 😁

It was Aluminum Oxide.

Thanks. I am glad you found it useful. It has been decades since I was in Boston. I remember the Van de Graaff generator at the museum which was amazing. There was so much to see in Boston but unfortunately I was there on a short business trip.

You're welcome!

I am glad you found this helpful. I hope your exhibit is a tremendous success.

Thanks for the compliment. I am rebuilding our website with Dreamweaver and I will be adding more of her paintings then. I haven’t done any serious web development for 25 years so I have to ramp up those software skills. lol With regard to the resin, not all resins are equal. The resin I was using for this video was a shallow pour resin (no deeper than 1/4 inch) typically used for making jewellery, and the Epoxy had a higher density and viscosity than the hardener so the Epoxy settles to the bottom. I was also mixing a small amount. For deep pour resins (rated for various depths) the density and viscosity of the Epoxy and the hardener can be very similar so the Epoxy will start to mix with the hardener as you pour in the Epoxy, so using the cup method for measuring does not work. There are also Epoxy resins that use a 2:1 ratio, and there are Epoxy resins where they use weight of each component as the measurement. An accurate way to measure the volume you need is to pour dry rise into the area where you plan to put the Epoxy resin, and then split the rise up according to the measurement used for the type of resin you are using. I split the rice by weight which is very accurate. Either 1:1 or 2:1 (2/3 Epoxy, 1/3 hardener). Epoxy resin where it is measured by weight can be done in one container by using the ratios the manufacturer recommends. Fluid ounces are a measure of volume for a fluid but the density of the fluids have to be the same which is usually not the case for Epoxy resin. When you are mixing a large volume of Epoxy resin you can trap a lot of air in the Epoxy and the Epoxy will settle as the air comes out, which affects the mix ratio. That is were the rice benefits. You can put a mark on your container at the height of the volume of rice for the hardener, and then another mark on the container for the full volume of rice which includes both the hardener and Epoxy. When I worked in the aerospace industry I was taught to always put the hardener in the container first and then add the Epoxy pouring it through the hardener. That way the Epoxy can never make contact with the sides of the container before making contact with the hardener. That is when you get issues with a a sticky mix. I have never had a bad batch due to mixing. For large volumes you probable will want to use a mixing paddle on a drill. The faster you run your drill the more air that will be incorporated into the mix by forming a cavity behind the paddle. I prefer a thinner paddle rather than a thick flat one. I still mix until the resin becomes clear. I find that deep pour resins have a much lower viscosity and take longer to set which provides more time for the bubbles to rise to the surface so you can pop them. You will also find that you can reduce air bubbles by sealing your wood with a coating or two of Epoxy resin before doing your pour. Wood is filled with air pockets and they are a royal pain to seal to prevent bubbles. As an artist I am sure you are aware of various additives like Pebeo, mica powders, chameleon powders and the like. Avoid oil and water based additives. I would recommend doing some testing before doing a big pour. You can also add things like stone, beads, glass, toys, figurines, and mirrors to the resin. I need to finish my latest video so I can show the variety of techniques I use. Good luck and have fun.

Oh man thank you for that i did not even consider all of that. i will be researching as my epoxy is a 2 /1 mix. i will def pour the resin in to the hardener tho. Thanks again for incite. i hope to make beautiful wooden things like you in the future!@@liz-artcreations6633

Brilliant cup measuring, I was going to go all out with crazy cups , so excited.

Thank you for the compliments and the tip on dessert pizzas. They sound delicious. We are looking forward to spring so we can start using the oven and try making all kinds of things. Dessert pizza never crossed our mind, but it is something we will be trying. I still have to finish making the tools and the doors for the oven but they will be done before the snow melts. We watched a UA-cam video by The Fire Brick Co. on how to use smoker tubes in the oven, and we have been looking at the tubes online. Just our luck we came across them at our local Princess Auto store yesterday and they were a lot cheaper than the online prices. We had never seen them there before so it was just luck. They must have read our mind. 😊 How did you roast your chicken? Did you use a rotisserie? I have always used a rotisserie on our barbecue but I haven’t seen anyone using one in pizza ovens. I will be making one for our oven. Good luck with your build and if you create a video please send us a link. Happy cooking. Liz & Art

@@liz-artcreations6633 ua-cam.com/video/a7m9MyMXvxo/v-deo.html this is the only cooking video i have done :) It has the build and tips on the channel. It will take me a few months to build the next oven at the new house. :)

That looked delicious. We can’t wait for spring so we can start using the oven and try smoking. I have been watching a number of your videos and subscribed. A friend of mine just bought a portable saw mil to cut slabs but he needs to make a kiln to dry them. A few questions: 1. How hot can you make your kiln? 2. How long does it take to dry your slabs? 3. How dry do you make them, and 4. How thick are they? I do wood turning so drying is critical to prevent cracking. I like to dry my wood turnings to 8% moisture content, but my little home made kiln struggles to reach the temperature required by the government needed to kill insects. So I use a microwave oven which isn’t practical for a slab. I look forward to seeing some of your finished river tables. FYI, I like East Coast Resin, but I cannot get it in Canada anymore. I haven’t looked at their products for a while so I don’t know if they make deep pour resins which work well for river tables. I just started working on a video on the variety of techniques I use with Epoxy resin. I hope to get it posted soon... but first I have to make a steady rest for my lathe so I can finish making my handles for the pizza oven tools. Are you an artist? I saw your Bob Ross T-shirt and wondered if there was an artist in the family. Great video and thanks for sharing.

@@liz-artcreations6633 Thats aweosme ask away! 1 I was able to exceed 150 degrees. that was all i needed to kill bugs :) 2 it depends on soft or hard wood. usually letting them sit for a few weeks/months to let most water out, then drying slowly over 1 month for softwood and 3 months for hard wood. 3 you want to be under 10 % and that varies by wood species, climate zone, and type of wood ( hard or soft) 4. any thickness you want. most of these were 3 inches. 2.25 is probably best now that i know better.

Yes i am def an artist :) good eye lol@@liz-artcreations6633

I have the original slab which is a beautiful tiger eye but this was a partial end piece that wasn’t cut at a good angle to the grain in the stone. I used it to show the process in the video rather than show the quality of the stone. When I get back to doing some lapidary I will likely cut the rest of the stone properly and polish it and then append it to this video. This year I have been busy building a wood fired pizza oven and doing forging, welding, and wood turning for the tools and doors. I plan to do a video where I incorporate wood turning, resin, and lapidary in a project but I need to finish my current projects first. I plan to make some more lapidary videos to show cutting, dopping, and polishing methods using tumblers and flat laps. There just aren’t enough hours in the day. Hopefully I will have a descent tiger eye to show in the future.

@liz-artcreations6633 in my opinion though, Blue Tiger Eye, Red Tiger Eye, or hybrids of Yellow, Blue, Red are all way better than your average yellow Tiger Eye, unless it's that bright Yellow "honey" Tiger Eye that has a high translucency to it

It sounds like you have a really nice selection . I only have yellow and blue tiger eye.

Glad to hear it.

Glad you liked it. I did a lot of research before starting the project so I hoped that what I learned could help others. Good luck with your kitchen build and have fun with your smoker.

There is definitely leakage current. Because I am using plywood the current has a tendency to follow glue joints. I prefer to use solid wood. The leakage current is why I use plastic matts, plastic tables, and have everything on rubber matts. To isolate myself as much as possible. I haven't used my Lichtenberg system for a while so I am not sure about the frame grounding. I will check that out. Thanks for the tip. I will be making the cord longer that runs between the controls and the transformer so I can isolate myself further by using separate tables and use separate rubber matts. One for the high voltage side and another that I stand on for the control side. I will then earth ground the high voltage side. The control side is already grounded. Great suggestion. Thanks.

@@liz-artcreations6633NO, DO NOT earth ground the high voltage side! I DID NOT IN ANY WAY SAY THE HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE SHOULD BE GROUNDED. This is extremely unsafe and creates many more current pathways which can easily become lethal. This is very likely the problem you have now, and the source of your leakage. Both high voltage leads should float free from earth ground and be expertly insulated from the transformer terminals to the probe tips. Also, the two table idea trades some risk off for others.

Your original comment got me to thinking about the possibility of using a GFI method of shutting off the power if there was any leakage current to ground on the high voltage side. I will have to look into that.

@@liz-artcreations6633I can tell you this is not an easy task, as I have designed current monitoring systems for 30kV capillary electrophoresis systems. I won't get into the wonderful geekey details, but you are indeed thinking in a good way here. AND, I am pleased to hear you are seeing the difference between this sort of system on the secondary, vs. the primary. Most UA-camrs totally miss that. KUDOS! That is exactly what needs to be done, BUT, BUT, BUT, we need a design specification, specifically, an allowable error in differential current, how much and for how long. This will be intimately related to an estimate of a human to survive a certain current for a certain time, which is very difficult data to obtain. Ultimately, to do the background calculations, one has to put a price on human life! So, I have an alternative idea, perhaps to focus on isolation, and the robustness of isolation. I will make a design proposal fairly soon. For now, if possible, just leave it in the closet? Having thought this through more, I am starting to see a machine which is as safe as a chainsaw or table-saw.

Glad it was helpful.

There are so many factors that affect the results that you will have to do some experimenting to get this to work for you. I use different types of halftones but you will probably find the easiest one to use is line halftone. Keep in mind that the type of stone, the type and size of your grit, the type of nozzle and pressure you use on your sandblaster, the masking material, and experience all influence the final results. I waisted a lot of granite trying different methods until I developed the techniques that work with my system. Good luck and I hope you have success with your system.

Thanks a lot@@liz-artcreations6633